Virtually every motorcycle made these days has adjustable suspension of one type or another. Adjusting your suspension for your weight, riding style, comfort and/or performance can be a daunting task. There are knobs and adjusting rings all over the place! What do they all do? Well, that’s a very good question, and one that is a very useful question, because if you don’t know what you are doing, you can very quickly tune yourself into left field, and be stuck with a terrible handling and uncomfortable motorcycle.

Before we get started talking about this, and especially before you pick up any tools, go have a look in your owners manual for a standard suspension setting. If you can find this, you have a baseline you can go back to. If you don’t have this information, we will cover another technique in just a minute.

So what do all those knobs and screws do? Let’s go over a couple of basics. There are three main types of changes you can make to your suspension (some bikes may not have all the adjustments detailed here; see your owner’s manual for specific information):

Spring Preload: Virtually all bikes have adjustable rear spring preload, and many bikes (sport bikes in particular) have adjustable front preload as well. Spring preload primarily affects how the suspension is positioned in its stroke. There is a misconception that spring preload will make the suspension stiffer, but this is not the case. Because all suspension components have a certain amount of static “sag” (the amount the suspension is compressed by the weight of the bike only), increasing the preload will raise the fork and shock in its stroke, the amount of pressure on the spring actually remains the same (unless you run out of sag, of course). Spring preload is mostly useful for problems with bottoming, or not enough of the stroke being used. If you are bottoming your suspension (using the entire suspension stroke), increasing spring preload will keep the fork or shock riding higher, and it will be less prone to bottoming. The opposite goes for not using enough travel, you would decrease the preload.

Compression Damping: Compression damping adjustments influence how the fork will react when it is compressed. More compression damping will make it more resistant to being compressed; less damping will make it less resistant. Compression damping is what most people describe as a fork or shock being “stiff” or “soft”. Changes in compression damping will affect how a fork or shock deals with the front side of bumps that you encounter. As the fork or shock meets the bump the wheel will be moved upward. If there is too much compression damping, the bump force will be translated to the chassis of the bike. Too little compression will make a fork or shock feel mushy, or “wallowy”. Compression damping, from a rider point of view, will mostly provide the proper feel of compliance when adjusted correctly, and reduce the effect of the bumps that are encountered.

Rebound Damping: Rebound is the more mysterious of the two damping adjustments and the more subtle of the two as well. While compression adjustments are almost immediately noticeable, rebound takes a little more thought and experience. As you might imagine, rebound damping controls how fast or slow the fork or shock extends after being compressed. This adjustment is the real “feel” adjustment. When the rebound damping is correct, the suspension will feel controlled, and predictable. If there is too much rebound, the suspension can move too slowly to recover after each bump, and can “pack down”, causing a harsh and out of control feel. It can also not properly follow the back profile of bumps, resulting in a loss of tire contact, and yet more unpredictable feel. Too little rebound can cause a wallowy feel, and in forks, make it feel like the triple clamp is “jumping” up at you. These uncontrolled movements will feed right into the chassis as well, upsetting balance and feel, and also hurting rider confidence.

These are the basics of suspension adjustments. In some sophisticated components there are even low and high speed damping adjustments, but we don’t have the room to cover those details here. Many books have been written about this subject, and if you really want to know about the in depth details of suspension science and engineering, I would suggest you check out a few.

But first, we have to talk about baselines again. I mentioned about stock settings in your owners manual, and those are all fine and good, but your bike might be set up differently than what is in the book. So what we have to do is baseline your suspension first, so we have a home base to go back to, in case an adjustment makes something worse, rather than better. Without a baseline, you can quickly get lost, and make your bike handle worse, not better! Also, make a lot of notes! Write all this information down. Write down the baseline, and write down the changes you make. Then write down what you thought of the change. All of this will help you to keep track of what you are doing, and help you find your way to the best setting possible.

Okay, back to work. Let’s do the spring preload baseline first. Shocks are pretty easy, you can measure where the preload collars are located, and use that as your baseline. On forks that have spring preload, sometimes there are marks on the preload mechanism, but don’t rely on them. You should always count preload in number of turns out from no preload. So turn the preload mechanism out while counting the turns until it is all the way out. That is your baseline preload. Put it back the same number of turns, and we are ready to move on to the next measurement. Damping adjustments are both measured the same way, and they are measured from the adjusters all the way CLOSED, maximum damping. You have to be careful here though. When the adjuster needle touches its seat, you need to stop there, and not apply any pressure to it, or you could damage the needle and its seat. So, from its current location, turn each of the rebound and compression adjusters all the way inwards, until you feel a light resistance. This is the needle touching its seat, and is fully closed. You counted the turns, didn’t you? Some adjusters have a detent, so you can feel “clicks” as you turn the adjuster. This way you just count the clicks, and note that number. Otherwise, count the number of turns. Once you have recorded these numbers, turn them back to the position they were originally in.

In all cases, the next step is to set the rider sag on your bike. There already is a really great article on the Motion Pro website about this subject, you can check it out here.

So now that the sag is set, now what? Well, that’s up to you. Go out for a ride on your bike. What do you like about the way it handles? What don’t you like? Write this stuff down. When you make changes, you want to make sure that you keep the behavior you like, and change the behavior you don’t. Look at the descriptions above about what the various adjustments do, and apply that to your bike. Here are some examples:

Your bike feels stiff over bumps, and particularly kicks back through the seat: This is most likely too much compression damping. Reduce the compression a couple of clicks, more at the back where it seems to be more of a problem. Test ride again…

Your bike feels wallowy under hard braking in a straight line: This is most likely too little compression damping in the fork, allowing the fork to bottom all the way and not work over the bumps you encounter. Interestingly, this also could be too much rebound in the rear, which does not allow the rear wheel to properly track in the back.

Your bike runs wide on the exit of corners on the gas: This could be too little compression in the rear, allowing the rear to squat too much, or too much rebound in the front, not allowing the front wheel to track properly under acceleration.

As you can see, there are a lot of possibilities here, and you may notice that the front can affect the rear, and vice versa. Everything is connected here, and a change in one area can affect many other kinds of behavior. At the risk of repeating myself (this is important though) make lots of notes, and don’t be afraid to experiment, but be aware that changing your settings will change your handling, and so always approach testing changes with caution until you become familiar with what each change will do.

That’s a lot of information, but it’s really just one step out of the door, all things considered. For more information there are a lot of books and publications on the subject of motorcycle suspension, and many people make their living specializing in suspension tuning. If you are really serious about getting the most out of the handling of your motorcycle, you should seek out someone in your area, who can assist you with valving changes, suspension maintenance, and other tasks. Check out their tool boxes first though, and make sure they are using Motion Pro tools, since that is the mark of a true professional…

There is one very important maintenance task that a lot of people overlook. That's the process of maintaining your throttle, clutch and other control cables. Most people don't give much thought to the controls of their bike, but it is one of the most important parts of your bike, and well-maintained controls can make riding a lot more fun. On the other side, neglected controls can be downright dangerous, or leave you stranded with a broken cable.

Doing the work to maintain your controls and cables is pretty simple work; it just takes a small investment in time, and a little familiarity with some easy procedures. The frequency of maintenance will vary depending on the type of riding you do, what kind of bike you have, and what sort of conditions you ride in. A dirt bike that gets ridden hard in dirty or muddy conditions will need much more maintenance than a street bike that just gets ridden on sunny weekend days. A good rule of thumb is to at least start the riding season with a good maintenance overhaul. Start with the cables, and then go from there. A street bike may only need this work once a season, a dirt bike may need it every other ride, or maybe every ride!

These procedures also apply to new replacement cables. Most replacement cables are sold without any lubrication, it is critical for their proper function and long service life that cables are properly lubricated.

Remove the Cables
First thing you have to do is remove the cables from your bike. Always refer to the factory service manual for your model motorcycle for these procedures. Getting any part of the disassembly or assembly wrong could result in a stuck throttle or a non-functioning clutch, both of which are extremely dangerous. You service manual will also have detailed specifications about cable adjustment and in some cases, proper cable slack, which is also critical to the proper and safe function of your motorcycle.

For all cables, the first thing to do is to clean up the housing, and inspect the cable for any wear. If the housing is worn to the coil winding, or one of the fittings is damaged or worn, this is a good time to think about some new cables. If they look good, the next step is to relubricate the inner wire.

Lubricating the Cable
Lubricating the wire inside the housing will make it slide more smoothly, and will also extend the life of the cable by reducing friction Motion Pro makes an excellent Cable Lube, and also a Cable Luber to make this job as easy as possible. The Cable Luber installs over the end of the housing, and clamps over the inner wire. There is a port in the side of the tool where you can insert the tube from the spray can of lube, and then short bursts of the aerosol will force lubricant into the cable housing and down along the inner wire. The lubricating process will also clean the inner wire and housing of debris. Continue to inject cable lube into the cable after the lube begins to drips out of the bottom of the housing. At first the discharge will be dirty, but when you see clean lubricant coming out you are done. Make sure to have some extra shop rags around though, because it is a somewhat messy process.

That is the main job to be done with the cables removed, and if you want to short cut this process some, you can just remove the cables from the controls, and then lubricate them while they are still in place on the bike, but this will keep you from doing a thorough inspection of the cables, and may result in cable lube getting on your bike, meaning more clean up.

Re-install the cables
When reinstalling the cables, there are a couple of very important things to do. One of the most important is to properly clean and lubricate any pivot points, like the clutch cable barrel in the clutch lever on the handlebar, and the throttle cable barrels in the throttle tube. If these points are not clean and lubricated with high quality grease, they can bind, which will cause the cable to flex and prematurely wear and fail. Lubricating these points will also result in finer feel and control, making your interface with the bike more sensitive. While you are at it, remove the clutch lever, and regrease the pivot there also, so it is working at its smoothest. This also applies to the brake lever, so that it works as smoothly as possible.

When adjusting the cables, refer to your service manual for the proper free play adjustments, as a throttle cable that is too tight can cause engine revs to rise when the bars are turned, causing an unsafe condition. If a clutch cable is too tight, it can cause the clutch to slip, and if too loose, shifting can be difficult. A note on the adjusters on a cable: Don't over tighten the adjuster fitting. They are hollow, so that the wire can pass through, and only need about 8 ft-lbs of torque to properly secure them. Over tightening the adjusters can cause them to crack and fail.

On most bikes, all of these jobs should only add about a half an hour of work to your garage time. It's time well spent to make sure your bike is performing at it's best. It will also make your riding time safer and more enjoyable.

Now Motion Pro is proud to offer several different cam reel solutions for use with the Revolver Throttle System. A cam reel allows the throttle to feel like a slow tuning throttle during a specific portion of the twist, and faster at another portion. Progressive cam designs can make the throttle feel soft at smaller openings, and more aggressive at larger openings. A digressive cam can have the opposite feel, making the throttle feel stronger off the bottom, but allowing finer control at larger throttle openings to control peak power and wheel spin.

The Revolver system also has a significant advantage over other cam systems currently available, because the Revolver throttle housing was specifically designed to have enough room to allow potentially aggressive cam profiles, and also allow the inner wire of the cable to float and find the optimal path, allowing the best feel and precise control. Other cam systems utilize the stock throttle housing, with limitations on reel size, and non-adjustable stock cables, resulting in inferior feel and function.

There are three off road oriented cam reels and one road race cam reel currently available:

Off Road Reel A: This reel is designed with a progressive cam to make lower speeds and engine rpm’s more controllable, for tight aggressive Supercross style tracks.

Off Road Reel B: This reel is more linear, with a broad cam profile well suited to open motocross tracks, and higher speeds.

Off Road Reel C:  This reel is designed for tight, technical riding like off road single track, with the mellowest feel and power delivery for precise control in tricky conditions.

Street/Road Race Reel B: This reel has the same progressive linear profile of the Off Road B reel, but with larger diameters over the full range for the shorter twist demanded by sport bike riders. This reel will allow expert riders to get the most out of a powerful sport bike at the limit of performance and traction, yet is also good for the less experienced rider who is looking to tame some of the aggressive feel of their bike.

All of these reels are a drop in fit for any motorcycle equipped with the Motion Pro Revolver Throttle System, just like the standard round reels. If you are looking for that additional performance edge that a cam reel can give you, this is the system for you.

PH. (650) 594-9600  FAX  (650) 594-9610

INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE MOTION PRO #08-0066 CHAIN PRESS TOOL

This chain tool will press on the outer link plates of master links. Fits size 520,525,530 and 532 chain only.

Before using apply a liberal amount of high quality grease on threads and the back of pad plates.

Usage: This tool is used to press on connecting link side plates.

Desirable for newer type press fit link side plates which cannot be installed by hand.

Other tools recommended by Motion Pro for complete chain repair: P/N 08-0230 (master link pliers) for master link clips.

General Instructions

1.) Thread handle onto main press body

2.) Install grooved pad plate into bottom of main body (stationary side)

3.) Install the pad plate with two holes into the upper side of the press tool (Side with movable hollow bolt). At this time your plates should oppose each other so the plate with two holes can allow the master link pins to move into the holes freely.

4.) Install chain onto vehicle. Merge chain onto rear sprocket so you have a platform in which to use the Chain Press Tool (it’s not necessary but makes installation easier).

5.) Install connecting link from the inside of the sprocket. Insert the link so the pins are pushed all the way through. And lightly install connecting link plate. Do not forget to install any O-rings (if you have an O-ring chain) prior to installing the plate.

6.) Now, slowly screw the body bolt (hollow bolt) with the pad that has two holes down on to the press fit plate until the plate is seated against the chain face and the link fitment is snug.  Caution!! Do not over tighten chain link for it will create binding and may cause chain wear.

7.) After connecting link plate is installed to the link. Use Motion Pro master link pliers for clip type master links to install the clip. The open end of the clip always faces away from the drive direction. Or use the Motion Pro chain riveting tool #08-0058 to stake the master link plate into place.

I8-0066                                                                                               091701LTS

Draining and flushing the coolant should always happen with your engine cold – you don’t want to burn yourself on hot coolant! Also, a hot engine will pressurize the cooling system, leading to a risk of coolant erupting out of the cap when opened, another reason to never start this procedure on a motorcycle that is hot. Most bikes will have a drain plug at the lowest point in the cooling system, and you also have to remove the radiator cap to allow the system to drain. Make sure to use a catch pan, and don’t just dump the coolant on the ground or into the sewer. It is a toxic chemical and needs to be disposed of properly, just like old engine oil. Rocking the bike to one side or the other can help drain any remaining coolant in the system.

There are a couple of minor jobs that can be performed when the cooling system is dry that might be handy to do now. One of them is to inspect and test the thermostat. The thermostat opens and closes to maintain the proper engine temperature and aid in warm up; one that is malfunctioning can lead to overheating. Your service manual will have the procedure for testing the thermostat, but in a nutshell, you'll need to remove it and test it in a pan of hot water with a thermometer to see at what temperature it opens and closes. Look at it closely for wearing parts or corrosion too, because it should be replaced if there is any doubt.

Another job to perform now is an inspection of the cooling hoses to make sure they are in good condition. Any wear or cracking means that hose should be discarded, and a new one installed. It is also a good idea to inspect all of the clamps holding the hoses.  We recommend using Stepless^TM Ear Clamps because they are more secure, have a lower profile, and are easier to install than standard hose clamps. Motion Pro carries a full line of Stepless^TM Ear Clamps for motorcycle and ATV applications as well as the tools you need to install them.

Once you go through all of the mechanical components, flushing the system once with clean water will ensure a thorough cleansing. Reinstall the drain screw and fill the system with water only. Start the bike and run it for a short period of time, but do not allow the engine temp to reach over 100 degrees. The goal is to run the bike long enough to flush the system but not enough to burn yourself when you drain it. Turn off the bike, remove the drain plug again and drain out all the water. Your system should be completely flushed of all the old coolant now.

A word about coolant: There are many different types and brands of coolant available for your motorcycle. For general use, standard glycol coolant is the best choice, especially in areas where the temperatures may drop to freezing or below in the colder months. Nothing will protect your engine as well as a standard glycol coolant. Be sure to check your vehicle’s owners manual and use the type of coolant recommended by the manufacturer. Some of the automotive anti-freeze coolants have silica in them to combat corrosion in cars, but this can damage the smaller and more delicate seals in a motorcycle cooling system. There are many other types of coolants that can help reduce engine temps but they may not protect the engine as well from freezing or corrosion.    

Another important point: Use distilled water in your cooling system! Tap water or regular bottled waters have varying levels of minerals and salts in them that will damage your engine when they are precipitated out by the heat cycles of your engine. Using distilled water will eliminate this issue and help you to avoid costly repairs down the road.

Okay, back to work. The system is now flushed and everything is assembled properly. Take your coolant mixture and start refilling the system. It’s very important to get all of the air out of the cooling system! Some engines have a bleed screw at various locations in the cooling system to allow air to escape. Consult your service manual to see if your bike has a feature like this. Leaning the bike away from the filler cap can help get air out of the radiator. Fill it so that the coolant is just below the sealing surface of the filler neck.

With the radiator cap off, it’s time to start the bike again and get the last few bubbles of air out. Once again, you have to be very careful to not allow the coolant to get too hot. Running it for a minute or two with the cap off should get the last of any remaining air out. Top off the fluid if necessary and replace the radiator cap, making sure it is completely closed. Run the engine again for a few minutes until the bike is completely up to running temperature, and keep a sharp eye out for any leaks. If there are no leaks, it’s time for the test ride! Keep a close eye on the temperature gauge to make sure you don’t have any problems with overheating. If the temp holds steady, and there are no leaks in the system, you’re all set. Congratulate yourself on a job well done!

Draining and flushing the coolant should always happen with your engine cold – you don’t want to burn yourself on hot coolant! Also, a hot engine will pressurize the cooling system, leading to a risk of coolant erupting out of the cap when opened, another reason to never start this procedure on a motorcycle that is hot. Most bikes will have a drain plug at the lowest point in the cooling system, and you also have to remove the radiator cap to allow the system to drain. Make sure to use a catch pan, and don’t just dump the coolant on the ground or into the sewer. It is a toxic chemical and needs to be disposed of properly, just like old engine oil. Rocking the bike to one side or the other can help drain any remaining coolant in the system.

There are a couple of minor jobs that can be performed when the cooling system is dry that might be handy to do now. One of them is to inspect and test the thermostat. The thermostat opens and closes to maintain the proper engine temperature and aid in warm up; one that is malfunctioning can lead to overheating. Your service manual will have the procedure for testing the thermostat, but in a nutshell, you'll need to remove it and test it in a pan of hot water with a thermometer to see at what temperature it opens and closes. Look at it closely for wearing parts or corrosion too, because it should be replaced if there is any doubt.

Another job to perform now is an inspection of the cooling hoses to make sure they are in good condition. Any wear or cracking means that hose should be discarded, and a new one installed. It is also a good idea to inspect all of the clamps holding the hoses.  We recommend using Stepless^TM Ear Clamps because they are more secure, have a lower profile, and are easier to install than standard hose clamps. Motion Pro carries a full line of Stepless^TM Ear Clamps for motorcycle and ATV applications as well as the tools you need to install them.

Once you go through all of the mechanical components, flushing the system once with clean water will ensure a thorough cleansing. Reinstall the drain screw and fill the system with water only. Start the bike and run it for a short period of time, but do not allow the engine temp to reach over 100 degrees. The goal is to run the bike long enough to flush the system but not enough to burn yourself when you drain it. Turn off the bike, remove the drain plug again and drain out all the water. Your system should be completely flushed of all the old coolant now.

A word about coolant: There are many different types and brands of coolant available for your motorcycle. For general use, standard glycol coolant is the best choice, especially in areas where the temperatures may drop to freezing or below in the colder months. Nothing will protect your engine as well as a standard glycol coolant. Be sure to check your vehicle’s owners manual and use the type of coolant recommended by the manufacturer. Some of the automotive anti-freeze coolants have silica in them to combat corrosion in cars, but this can damage the smaller and more delicate seals in a motorcycle cooling system. There are many other types of coolants that can help reduce engine temps but they may not protect the engine as well from freezing or corrosion.    

Another important point: Use distilled water in your cooling system! Tap water or regular bottled waters have varying levels of minerals and salts in them that will damage your engine when they are precipitated out by the heat cycles of your engine. Using distilled water will eliminate this issue and help you to avoid costly repairs down the road.

Okay, back to work. The system is now flushed and everything is assembled properly. Take your coolant mixture and start refilling the system. It’s very important to get all of the air out of the cooling system! Some engines have a bleed screw at various locations in the cooling system to allow air to escape. Consult your service manual to see if your bike has a feature like this. Leaning the bike away from the filler cap can help get air out of the radiator. Fill it so that the coolant is just below the sealing surface of the filler neck.

With the radiator cap off, it’s time to start the bike again and get the last few bubbles of air out. Once again, you have to be very careful to not allow the coolant to get too hot. Running it for a minute or two with the cap off should get the last of any remaining air out. Top off the fluid if necessary and replace the radiator cap, making sure it is completely closed. Run the engine again for a few minutes until the bike is completely up to running temperature, and keep a sharp eye out for any leaks. If there are no leaks, it’s time for the test ride! Keep a close eye on the temperature gauge to make sure you don’t have any problems with overheating. If the temp holds steady, and there are no leaks in the system, you’re all set. Congratulate yourself on a job well done!

There are two sag settings to keep in mind. Static sag is the amount of compression on the spring of the shock or forks when under a stationary load of just the motorcycle itself. Rider sag is the amount of compression with the weight of the rider and the motorcycle together. Too much sag means that the bike will bottom over bumps or feel too soft. Too little sag will mean a harsh ride or a “kicked out of the seat” feeling over bumps. Sag is also important in a “top out” situation when riding, like going over a rise at speed. Without some sag, the suspension will top out too early, and your tires could lose contact with the road or trail surface, resulting in a loss of control. Suspension damping also is dependent on sag, so if you change spring preload (to change sag), then the current damping settings (compression and/or rebound) will act differently. Therefore, sag is always set first, and then adjustments to rebound and compression are made to fine tune the function of the forks and shock.

Virtually all motorcycles have rear spring preload adjustments these days, and many have fork spring preload adjusters as well. Refer to your owner’s manual for what types of adjustments are available to you, and how they are adjusted.

The most straightforward method of sag adjustment is to concentrate on rider sag, which is the amount of suspension compression with the rider on board. Both front and back are measured in a similar manner. You have to start with a base measurement of the suspension when it is fully extended. For most offroad motorcycles, this is easily accomplished when the bike is on a work stand, with both wheels off the ground. Larger motorcycles necessitate an assistant to pull up on the handlebars to extend the forks, or lift up on the footpegs to extend the shock. Measure the length of the exposed fork tube to get your fork starting measurement, and measure from the rear axle to a fixed point on the rear fender or tail to get the shock starting measurement. Write the numbers down, so you don’t forget them and have to start over! No matter what changes you make to the preload, these numbers will always be your starting point.

Once you have the starting numbers, have an assistant hold the motorcycle upright while the rider sits on the bike with his normal riding gear on. Have the rider move up and down on the pegs to settle the suspension, and then assume the normal riding position. Then measure again at the same two points. This measurement is the rider sag.

Subtracting the rider sag measurement from the starting measurement will give you the amount of suspension movement from fully extended to the rider aboard. This measurement will vary depending on the type of motorcycle you are measuring. For off road and MX motorcycles, front rider sag should be 90-110mm, and rear rider sag should be 25-35mm. Street sport motorcycles will have much less sag, with the front at 20-30mm, and the rear from 15 to 25mm. Every bike is different, so refer to your owner’s information, or consult a suspension expert for advice.

The other measurement is static sag, where the measurement process is the same, but you are only concerned with the weight of the motorcycle itself without the rider. These numbers are always much less than rider sag, for obvious reasons. Contrasting rider sag to static sag can help you to evaluate whether the springs installed in your suspension are correct for your motorcycle and you, but that is a subject that will be explored in another article.

Motion Pro has two tools to help you set the sag on your motorcycle. The Motion Pro Uni-Sag Telescoping Sag Scale is designed to make the setting sag a simple one person operation.  We also offer the less expensive Folding Sag Scale, which requires two people in order to accomplish this task.  You can use a simple tape measure to set sag, but the UniSag and Folding Sag Scale offer much greater simplicity, accuracy, and convenience than a simple tape measure.

Thank you for purchasing the Motion Pro Professional Tire Gauge. This is a precision instrument that needs to be used with care. Do not exceed the rated pressure of the gauge. Excessive pressure can damage the gauge and will void the warranty.

Important! - Read This Before Use

To insure accurate pressure readings, it is necessary to vent the gauge before each use to equalize the atmospheric pressure inside the sealed gauge with the atmospheric pressure outside the gauge. This is done by gently pulling up on the brass tab located on the top of the gauge until it indexes into the open position (Note: if the brass tab is pulled too far, it may come out of the rubber grommet. If this occurs, simply reinsert the tab into the grommet and continue to use the gauge as normal).

With the vent open, the gauge should equalize in 2-3 seconds at which time the vent can be returned to the closed position. For consistently accurate results, this procedure should be repeated approximately every 30 minutes when the gauge is in use or with rapidly changing weather conditions (e.g. warm sun coming up over a cold morning).

You may notice some needle movement on the gauge as the equalization process takes place. Use the equalization process to zero the gauge any time you notice the needle is not at rest on the zero pin of the gauge.

Be sure to close vent before storage. Failure to do so can result in loss of gauge fluid. Optional Motion Pro Air Gauge Holder (P/N 08-0475) stores gauge in upright position to prevent fluid loss even with vent in open position. If needed, glycerin refill kits are also available (Motion Pro P/N 08-0432).

Warranty

This product is guaranteed against defects in quality and workmanship for a period of two years from date of purchase.

Gauge failures need to be submitted to Motion Pro, Inc. after obtaining RGA approval from our warranty department (650-594-9600, 8am-5pm pst). Damage to the gauge due to impact or over pressurization is not covered by this warranty. Motion Pro, Inc. will charge a fee if non-warranty service is desired. We cannot promise that a gauge can be recalibrated until we have the opportunity to inspect it.

The Motion Pro, Inc. warranty department's inspection results determine warranty eligibility. This guarantee is limited to repair or replacement at the sole discretion of Motion Pro, Inc.

The above is customer’s exclusive remedy. The above is in lieu of all other warranties expressed or implied and of all other obligations and liabilities. In no event shall Motion Pro, Inc. be liable for any incidental or consequential damages arising from the breach of any warranties, improper use, the failure to deliver, delay in delivery, delivery of non-conforming parts, or any other breach of contract or duty.

Glycerin

Emergency Overview

Appearance: Clear. Caution! May cause eye and skin irritation. May cause respiratory and digestive tract irritation. This is expected to be a low hazard for usual industrial handling.
Target Organs: None known.

Potential Health Effects
Eye: May cause eye irritation.
Skin: May cause skin irritation. Low hazard for usual industrial handling.
Ingestion: Ingestion of large amounts may cause gastrointestinal irritation. Low hazard for usual industrial handling. May cause headache.
Inhalation: Low hazard for usual industrial handling. Inhalation of a mist of this material may cause respiratory tract irritation.
Chronic: No information found.

Emergency Treatment

Eyes: Flush eyes with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes, occasionally lifting the upper and lower eyelids. If irritation develops, seek medical aid.
Skin: Flush skin with plenty of soap and water for at least 15 minutes while removing contaminated clothing and shoes. Seek medical aid if irritation develops or persists. Wash clothing before reuse.
Ingestion: Never give anything by mouth to an unconscious person. Do NOT induce vomiting. If conscious and alert, rinse mouth and drink 2-4 cupfuls of milk or water. Seek medical aid if irritation or symptoms occur.
Inhalation: Remove from exposure to fresh air immediately. If not breathing, give artificial respiration. If breathing is difficult, give oxygen. Seek medical aid if cough or other symptoms appear.
Notes to Physician: Treat symptomatically and supportively.

In reality, anyone with a decent amount of mechanical experience can change fork seals, as long as you have the right information and the right tools. Motion Pro can supply the right tools to make the job easy, so you have one less thing to worry about.

There are many different kinds of forks out there, upside down (UD), right way up (RWU), damper rod, cartridge, and even exotic pressurized forks that work like a shock absorber. If we were to cover procedures for all of the forks out there, this article would be hundreds of pages long. So we are just going to cover some of the basics, focusing on how Motion Pro suspension tools can make this project easier and less time consuming. When doing this sort of work, it is critical that you have a shop service manual for your particular motorcycle. The disassembly and reassembly procedures are somewhat complex, and you have to do everything in the right order and keep things organized. Also, the service manual will provide important torque values for many components, which is an essential part of doing the job right, not only for safety, but for the proper function of a very important part of your bike. In addition, we highly recommend purchasing an official factory service manual for your bike. These manuals have the most detailed information, and are the most thorough. There are many independent writers of manuals available, but in my experience, they can have omissions and incorrect or misplaced information. A factory manual may cost more, but it is a good investment, and a valuable resource.

So, you have your forks on the work bench, now what? One of the first things you have to figure out how to do is hold on to the parts you are working on. A standard vise can do the job, by clamping on the axle surface, or the brake caliper mount, but it is somewhat awkward. Motion Pro makes the Vertical Suspension Vise, and while it is probably not imperative for the home mechanic, anyone who does any amount of suspension work will find it is one of the most valuable time saving tools in his shop. The Suspension Vise will hold fork tubes, fork sliders, shock bodies, shock shafts and just about any other round item. By solidly fixturing the component you are working on, in an accessible position, the job becomes much easier. Anyone who has worked on an MX fork leg clamped in a vise and had to reach above their heads to remove the fork cap will know what we are talking about and appreciate this handy tool.

As mentioned, going into particulars is not possible in an article of this type, so we are going to just cover the basics. The first job you have to do is loosen and remove the fork caps. If you are not using a suspension vise, loosen the fork caps even before the forks come out of the triple clamps, by loosening the upper triple clamp while the lower is still tight, and use a regular open end wrench or one of the special Motion Pro fork cap wrenches. Once the cap is loose, most cartridge style forks require you to loosen a locknut at the underside of the fork cap to remove the cap completely. Once the cap is removed, you can pull out the fork spring and any guides, and then turn the fork over to drain the fork oil. Most cartridge forks require you to pump the damper rod to get all of the old oil out of the fork. Make sure to dispose of used fork oil just like you would engine oil, and recycle!

Once the oil is drained, you have to dismount the cartridge or damper rod from the bottom of the fork. Again, there is a lot of variety here, so make sure to consult your service manual. Here too, Motion Pro makes several damping rod and cartridge holding tools for many types of forks to make this part easier.

Once the cartridge is free from the fork bottom, now you can start to work on the seals. There is generally a dust seal over the fork seal itself, and it can be removed simply by prying in between the fork slider and the dust seal. A small screwdriver works fine for this, but be careful not to damage the seal or the fork slider. After sliding the dust seal up the tube, you will be able to see the actual fork seal recessed in the fork slider. Before pulling the seal though, most forks have a retaining clip in the slider, and you have to remove it first. If you don’t take it out, the seal will never come out, no matter how much you struggle. With the retaining clip out, now is the time to pull the fork seal. This part may sound kind of barbaric, but this is the real way you remove the seal. Slide the fork tube inside the slider, and then quickly pull the tube outwards and the seal will pop out of the slider along with the tube. Again, this is not universal, so take a look at your service manual.

Before we talk about installing new seals, this is the time to check out your fork tubes and see if there is a rock chip or other damage that caused the seal to fail. Sometimes seals just wear out and start to leak, but often there is something that caused damage to the seal and started the leak. If you have a small rock chip, sometimes you can polish it out with a very fine grain whetstone, but you have to be careful not to damage the fork tube chrome. If you find something like this, it’s best to head to your local bike or suspension shop to have them look at it.

With RWU forks, swapping seals is simple. Slide the old ones off the top, and slide the new ones on. With UD forks, you have to remove the fork tube bushing, and slide the old seals off over the bushing groove. However, you have to protect the new seals, because the sharp square edges of the bushing groove can cut the new seals. Motion Pro has a solution for this too. The Fork Seal Bullets slide over the tube and the bushing groove, and provide a nice taper to make the job of installing new seals a snap.

When installing the fork seal into the slider, you need to have a fork seal driver to seat the new seal in the slider. Motion Pro makes fork seal drivers in many sizes to fit virtually any fork. A couple of good strokes with the driver, and the seal goes easily in place. Always make sure to check that the seal has been all the way seated so that the seal retaining clip will seat fully in its groove. The dust seal will just push into place by hand.

The rest of the assembly is the reverse of what you did to disassemble it. Make sure to torque everything carefully. Also many forks have a soft copper seal at the lower cartridge or damping rod bolt. It is recommended to replace it every time, so that you do not have a leak at the bottom of the fork.

Once the fork and the slider are reassembled, it is time to refill the fork with fork oil There are many brands and weights available, each has it’s own characteristics. Your service manual will have recommendations, and using different weights will change the damping characteristics of your fork. It is best to stick with factory recommended oil, or inquire with a local suspension specialist if you want to make changes. Most manuals will have a specification for either oil quantity, or, more commonly, oil level in the fork. This is generally measured with the fork tube fully inside the slider, and no spring in the fork. Motion Pro makes the Fork Oil Level Gauge, which makes this part of the job a snap. Slightly overfill the fork leg with oil, and then set the ring on the gauge to the fork oil level height specified in the manual. Insert the gauge into the fork leg, and pull on the plunger of the syringe. This will pull excess oil out of the fork leg until it is at the set height. Piece of cake.

Next up, most cartridge style forks require bleeding, to get air out of the cartridge before final assembly. Anyone want to guess where you can get a tool for this? Yes, you in the third row. Motion Pro? Good job, you get a gold star for today’s class. The Damping Rod Bleed Tool has a number of different adapters to fit just about any cartridge rod, and the handle allows you to easily pump the air out of the damping rod without getting your hands all oily. It also makes for a handy extension to the damping rod, so that when you install the spring, you don’t have to chase the damping rod back into the fork as it retracts.

From here the rest of the assembly is pretty simple. Reinstall the springs and any spring guides, and then get ready to install the fork cap. One thing to look out for is some forks have a damping adjuster on the cap, and the adjuster has to be in a specific position, and the cap has to be threaded a specific amount onto the damping rod before tightening the lock nut. This is very important, as it will affect the adjustability of the fork. Refer to your service manual for this very important step.

Tighten up the caps, reinstall your forks, and you are done. Time for more riding!