Looking for some bolt-on power for your two-stroke? I tested the FMF Gold Series SST Pipe on a 2003 Yamaha yz125 and it is a great pipe for riders who want smooth and more power. The power-band got a healthy increase of horsepower and was broadened; resulting in less of a ‘hit’. The bottom-end power was close to the same as stock with the SST, and the mid-range was slightly better than stock. This FMF pipe makes the bike easier to ride because it’s not as snappy, and the throttle response was spot on and hit right off of idle. The FMF SST pipe also gave my bike a lot more over-rev compared to stock. That was probably the biggest change I felt because the power just dropped at really high RPM with the stock pipe, but the FMF SST pipe kept the bike pulling for much longer. I really liked that because I ride in the high RPM range.

Overall it’s a really good horsepower addition and makes it easier to ride if you stay in the mid-range and and top-end because that’s where there is more power, plus the over-rev adds additional gains that can greatly help faster riders. But for beginners or riders who like to lug the bike around more, it’s better to stay with a stock pipe or an FMF Fatty. The FMF SST is made of high-quality Steel which is stronger and more durable than the stock exhaust pipe. The SST is also chrome plated, which gives it a great shiny look that lasts long. Thanks for reading this, and I will have more reviews to come!

Click For FMF SST Pricing & Availability

-Tom Stark

P.S. Check out my other review for the FMF Fatty Pipe if you haven’t already

'03 Yamaha YZ125 With FMF SST Pipe

Originally posted 2009-09-07 00:15:00.

No More Rails Flopping Around

Unlike other motorcycle/dirt bike carriers, the Ultimate MX hauler does not have a rail that the wheels roll up onto. Instead, you roll the bike up to it so the bike is sitting above the platform. For most vehicle hitches you won’t have to do any kind of lifting or pushing to get the bike up on the carrier, which is why you can go to the motocross track without needing any help.

Ultimate MX Hauler

Who Needs Tie Straps?

That’s right, the only reason why you’d ever need a strap is for holding your handlebars to hold them in the same position. The ultimate motocross hitch hauler uses a strong metal platform that your bike’s frame rests on, and holds it on with a hooked shaft retainer that goes through the foot-pegs. It’s threaded on the bottom side so you can clamp it down tight with wing or locking nuts.

You Get What You Pay For

What are you expecting when you buy cheap Chinese stuff? Junk. Yes, 99% of their products are sub-par. Thankfully, this Motocross bike hitch carrier is made in the U.S.A. Yes, it does cost a little more, but its build quality and innovative technology is worth it. Like I mentioned above, you don’t need straps to hold your dirt bike down, and there’s no risk of tipping it over when loading it up since you don’t need a long and un-sturdy ramp.

Since it was made in the U.S., the engineers took the time to build it right. Dual-diagonal bracing and a hitch stabilizing pin give it the strength needed to stay sturdy on your vehicle’s hitch. There’s two polyurethane plates riveted onto the carrier, protecting it and your bike’s frame from getting scratched up.

Made In The U.S.A

That in itself means a lot. Like I said before, you never know what you’ll get when you buy Chinese because they usually have lower tolerances/quality on their products. The Ultimate MX dirt bike hauler has laser cut arms and deck to give it a great fit every time. It has a strong powder coated finish, and the jacking tube is 18 inches long for to give you the extra leverage to easily raise your dirt bike up. It’s also powder coated and has its own carrier built-in to the hauler.

Other Specs

The hitch receiver tube is 2 by 2 inches and is made of 1/4 inch steel for strength and durability. It has adjustable locking holes, allowing you to lock it at the desired height. It has a 375 pound carrying capacity, so it will hold a full-size dirt bike. Your bike’s suspension is ‘saved’ due to the fact that there is no load on it when traveling. Have a gas can? No problem; there’s an optional rack for it so you can keep the fumes out of your vehicle (Most other motorcycle carriers don’t have a spot for a gas can). And last, but not least, it’s Made in the U.S.A.

Why Should I Buy The Ultimate Motocross Bike Hauler?

• You can use it all by yourself
• It puts less strain on your vehicle because the bike is closer to the hitch
• You can use it as a convenient work-stand as well
• Easy to handle and store
• Allows you to haul your dirt bike with most vehicles
• No tie-downs (just a retainer strap to hold your front wheel)
• Parking and backing up is much easier than with a trailer
• Includes an optional gas can rack

Negatives?

With so many positives, there’s got to be some setbacks, right? Cost is probably the biggest factor here. But like I said before, you often get what you pay for, and this is the case when looking to buy a dirt bike carrier. It costs more than most other hitch carriers, but the features and build quality make up for it; just ask the consumers. A problem that some people may have with the Ultimate MX hauler is the ground clearance if they have a low car or a steep driveway (this is the case for any motorcycle carrier). Just be careful when going over abrupt road changes so the carrier doesn’t scrape if you are driving a car or lowered vehicle. Another downside is that it doesn’t allow you to drop the tail-gate on most trucks/SUV’s when loaded up. You can see out the back window, but the license plate is obscured, and the tail-lights are harder to see. You may want to check with your state to see if you need extensions/add-ons for them.

What Do The Buyers Have To Say About It?

• I prefer this to the ramp-type haulers that require tie-straps
• It is a well designed hauler and worth the money
• This thing is totally stable going down the road
• Good compromise between a pickup truck and a trailer

Click Here To Buy the Ultimate MX Hauler

-Tom Stark

Depending on what you’re looking to spend, there are many different qualities a helmet camera can have. The main specs you want to keep in mind are: image quality, sound quality, size, mounting units, and durability. I’ll let you in on some other quirks these “first person” cameras have, but the more and better options you want out of a cam, the more it’s going to cost you.

Definition?

No, we’re not finding the meaning of words here (you can leave that to English class). Definition in the video world refers to the video resolution, or image quality. So the higher the definition, the clearer and better looking the video image will be. There is standard definition and high-definition. There is quite a difference when comparing the two, so if you are wanting an HD helmet cam there will be a jump in price. Full HD helmet cameras, such as the ContourHD, come with 720p and 1080p, as well as 960p on the GoPro HD.

Wind Is The Enemy

For years, camera companies have been trying to figure out what it takes to get rid of/minimize the sound of wind blowing by the mic. While most cameras are muffled up to “dull” the sound of wind, it makes the entire audio sound like trash. If you’re riding a dirt bike, hearing the exhaust is important for most riders, especially when it’s a two-stroke being ringed. Finding a camera with good sound quality can be difficult, and you may end up having to buy top-of-the-line if it’s a must. Helmet cameras aren’t bank-breaking expensive like studio-quality camcorders, so don’t worry too much.

How Big Is Too Big?

I Think It's A Little On The Big Side...

The size of a helmet cam is crucial; at least in my mind. I ride trails, so I don’t want this giant camera bolted to my helmet that’s going to get caught on all the trees/branches hanging over the trail. Not only is the size of the camera important, but I also believe the shape is too, in some cases. The two common shapes are a square and a cylinder-shaped camera. Obviously the cylinder is going to have better aerodynamics for high speeds and mounts up tighter to the helmet. Although, the square box can be mounted in different locations (more on that later). Basically, the smaller the better, but if you’re doing high-speed footage such as drag racing, you may want a more aerodynamic camera.

It’s More Than Just A HELMET Cam!

Most helmet cams have other mounts that you can buy separately. They usually are for your chest, a handlebar, seat post, forks, or anywhere else you can stick one on. They can be a little expensive for what they are, but there aren’t really other options if you want a good and sturdy mount. For motocross and riding bikes, the best mounts will be for your helmet and chest. Any other places are usually too shaky and don’t show as much of what’s going on.

The reason I’m saying this is because not all helmets have mounts for whatever location you want to put them. Take the GoPro for example; it’s a small, rectangular-like box. It can mount on the top of your helmet, on the side, under the visor, and you can get a nice chest mount for it. But, it may not have the features you want out of a helmet cam. Its rival, the VHoldR Contour, may have some better features, but can only mount of the side of your helmet (goggles), and under the visor with some work. Take this into consideration when researching helmet cameras, because you don’t want to buy the perfect camera with all the right specs, only to find out it can’t mount up where you want it to.

What If I Crash With A Helmet Cam?

Let’s face it, everyone is going to crash sooner or later, some (much) more than others. Having a durable camera is important if you are mounting it in a location susceptible to impact. A regular digital camera mounted to your helmet is probably going to get destroyed the first time it hits the ground. Fortunately, helmet cams are made more durable, but not all are same. Some have a protective housing surrounding it, making it withstand almost any crash. Others that are made on the cheap side may not last as long. So, if you know you are going to fall a lot or the camera is open to branches and other objects, you’ll want to add this to the list of features to research.

Helmet cameras are perfect for capturing those moments or close-calls, or wipe-outs in first-person. Good luck on your research for finding the right camera, and don’t forget to check out my review for the VHoldr Contour HD!

-Tom Stark

Originally posted 2011-02-06 13:52:08.

-Tom Stark

Originally posted 2010-01-21 17:05:52.

Just picked up a 2008 KTM 125 2-stroke dirt bike. I have to change the oil and get some more gas before I really test this thing out. It’s not actually new off the showroom floor. I bought it used, but it’s the newest bike I’ve had. The bike is all stock except for the FMF spark arrestor and has decently low hours. This will be my race bike for hopefully the next few years. Please comment if you would like me to make a review for it.

Originally posted 2009-09-07 00:17:00.

More power is better, but it won’t do you much without having good handling, suspension, ergonomics, and reliability, as well as light-weight. Combining the five would give you the best trail bike possible; extra horsepower is a bonus in my book. But since riders aren’t all the same size, shape, and skill, it’s hard to make the best overall bike possible. Kawasaki succeeded in some areas, yet didn’t quite meet the standards in others when building the KLX300.

2003 Kawasaki KLX300R

One of the first things I noticed about this bike is that it has mx-style inverted forks, unlike its XR competitor. This makes it feel and ride more like a motocross bike, but with really plush springs.

Handling is surprisingly good on the KLX300. It’s easy to turn and will go where you want it to. It does get a little twitchy going fast over rough ground, but it handled every terrain I rode on excellently. The bike doesn’t feel too bulky, and the seat is low and comfortable; perfect for my short frame and legs. It’s easy to squeeze your legs right up against the frame and let the bike do most of the work. Although, hanging on with your arms is awkward at first. I’m not really sure what Kawasaki was trying to do when they made the handlebars. They are really wide, low, and weak. Unless you’re an odd-ball that likes the fit of the bars, they would be the first thing to go.

Although the KLX300R has motocross-style suspension, it does not perform exactly like it. It’s a smaller and cheaper version of it. You can’t tune the forks and shock as you would be able to on a race bike. With that said, many KLX owners have swapped out the stock forks for a pair from an older KX250 (there may be a future article on how to do this if I get enough responses). With some adjusting of what clickers I had, the bike was finally riding like it should. I’m a light rider, and I had to have the clickers almost all the way in for it to be stiff enough. I do occasionally jump the bike, but its main use was riding single track trails, so the suspension couldn’t be too harsh. If you weigh over 150 lbs (68 kg) you’ll probably need to get stiffer springs, and it will be well worth it once the bike is set-up the way you want.

Weighing in at 231 lbs makes it the lightest bike in its class. This is a huge bonus because you definitely feel the extra weight on heavier bikes when shifting around on the trails, or when you are picking the bike up after a spill. It’s not as light as a 2-stroke, but definitely lighter than a 450cc off-road dirt bike.

As far as reliability goes, the KLX300 is as close to bullet-proof as you can get. There were a couple problems in the engine, but the main one was the cam/timing chain tensioner. After a few thousand miles or so of wear it would get caulked down, causing the chain to be loose and make noise. Many new KLX owners get frightened by this because it often makes a loud knocking noise. The same thing happened to my 300R, and I thought for sure it was piston-slap since the noise was really loud and would go away once the bike was hot. I eventually bought a new tensioner just for the sake of it, and when I was taking out the original one, it didn’t even look crooked or broken. I was hoping that it would still somehow be the problem, and I was right. I started up the bike with the new one in and it purred like a kitten.

Other that, I haven’t a problem with this bike. As long as you change the oil/filter, clean the air filter, lube chain, etc. when you should, this bike will last a long time. Check the valves and timing chain every year or two, as well to make sure they aren’t worn or have moved.

2003 Kawasaki KLX300R

Lastly, when I said power was just a bonus on a trail bike, I didn’t exactly mean that power doesn’t matter, because it does…. From some help of the extra 50cc’s, the KLX300 is the most powerful in its class. More horsepower and torque than the XR250R and DR250. Don’t get too excited, though, because the 24 ponies it puts out makes a very smooth and linear power curve. This is mainly thanks to the Keihin CVK 34mm constant velocity carburetor. It uses the pull of vacuum to move the slide up, which takes away any “snap” the bike would have. It simply robs torque and horsepower that this bike could’ve had.

On the flip-side, having a very mellow power-band makes the bike extremely easy to use and allows it to putt up steep hills with ease. You shouldn’t have trouble going through tight trails, no matter the conditions, because it will put what power it has to the ground with a good rear tire on.

All-in-all, there are ups and downs to the Kawasaki KLX300R, but most of the flaws are easily fixable. I wouldn’t mind getting another one of these in the future for going on long trail rides. So, let’s review what this bike has to offer…

What’s good?

• Lightest four-stroke in its class
• Very easy to ride
• Motocross-style features (inverted forks, liquid-cooling)
• Smooth power-curve to putt up hills
• Sips on gas
• Reliable
• 36 in. seat height
• Very quiet for riding in people-dense areas

What’s not?

• No electric-start
• No hot-start (often floods if you stall, making it harder to start)
• Low, wide, and weak handle bars
• Inverted forks are not fully-adjustable
• Throttle requires you to turn it too far
• Engine is choked up with the small carb. and exhaust

Haul your KLX300 with an Aluminum Motorcycle Carrier.

If you have any questions or concerns, feel free to comment!

P.S. Stay tuned for a future article or two on how to hop-up your KLX300 for cheap!…

-Tom Stark

Originally posted 2010-09-02 14:26:22.

Fox Main Shard Goggles

I have been wearing the Fox Main Shard Goggles for over a season now. I bought them because they look great and felt comfortable when I tried them on. What I was looking to get out of them is a pair of goggles that were fog-proof and scratch-resistant because these were a couple of problems with my older motocross goggles. A few more things that I look for in goggles is comfort, fit, and style.

Comfort

I don’t want to buy goggles that aren’t comfortable, and I don’t think you do either. That’s why I’m here so I can tell you whether these goggles are good or not before you go waste your money. When I first put the Fox Main Shard Goggles on they felt pretty much perfect, but I didn’t just base it off of that because I didn’t have my helmet on and I wasn’t riding with them. On my first race with the Main Goggles on I loved them. They were just as comfortable as when I tried them on at the store.

Fit

I haven’t used that many pairs of goggles, but I can definitely say that the Fox Shard goggles have the best fit on my face. The padding is so soft, yet thick, that it basically molds to my face. I was surprised how well these goggles fit for how cheap they were. I want to test other brands of goggles to see how they compare, but I would certainly buy the Fox Main Shard goggles again.

Lens

The lens is probably the most important part of goggles. I don’t know exactly what to look for in a goggle lens, but I did know that I wanted it to have an anti-fogging feature and to be scratch-resistant. When I looked at the Fox Main goggles it said that it had both features, which is the main reason why I got them, and to this day I’m glad I did. When I was racing in 40 degree weather, in which my old goggles would totally fog up at the starting gate, these goggles stopped the fog immediately. I’m not frustrated  before the gate is about to drop anymore because I can keep my goggles on without having to wipe the fog away. As for being scratch-resistant, I usually wear tear-offs with them, but the lens still doesn’t have a scratch on it. So, I can safely say that I am happy about these Fox Main lens.

Style

The style and graphics of the goggles don’t necessarily determine what pair I buy, but it’s nice to have goggles that look cool. Fox always makes great looking gear, and the Shard goggles are a good example of this. I really like the looks of these goggles, and the colors don’t fade very easily. They have the style of a $100 pair of goggles, but are at an entry level price.

The Fox Main Shard Goggles are an excellent buy and I would recommend them to any rider that want comfortable, and stylish goggles that fit well at a bargain price. I have yet to this day learned how to adjust the fit of the goggles though, but I don’t really need to because they fit me fine out of the box. That is the only real complaint I have about these goggles. I might read the manual though if I really need to adjust the size of them.

Have fun,

and ride safe!

-Tom Stark

Originally posted 2010-02-03 17:52:36.

Almost any dirt biker you meet today will agree that four-stroke dirt bikes are expensive when it comes to rebuilding them, especially if you have a shop do it. They have a lot more moving parts in the engine than a two-stroke engine does. This means that there are more things that can go wrong, and when something does break, it results in a domino effect that often grenades most, if not the entire engine.

There are ways to prevent these expensive repairs from happening. So instead of having your bike in the shop or sitting in the garage for weeks, or even months because you don’t have the money, time, or parts, you could still be riding because you did some “preventative maintenance”.

If you do a little research, you’ll see that valves can get fairly expensive, considering you usually have to buy four or five of them. What will cost even more is when one of them breaks and puts a hole in your piston, resulting in a destroyed top-end. As far as timing chains, this is probably the most disregarded part in the top-end when it comes to maintenance. Many people think that timing chains will last hundreds of hours without failure because they’re just spinning on the crank and cam(s). Well with the crank spinning from 1,500 rpm up to 12,000 rpm, and constantly accelerating and decelerating, the cam/timing is going to wear out eventually. When it does have to snap or break, it will seize the engine and more than likely destroy most of the parts.

Now I’m not trying to scare you, or to try to convert you to a two-stroke. I just want to inform you so that you know how to prevent something like this from happening. Now that you know why to replace these things, you should know when to replace them, otherwise it will do you no good.

Are You Racing Your High-Tech Four Stroke?

Routine Maintenance On YZ250F

If you race and actually ride your 250/450F hard, then it’s going to cause more wear on parts a lot quicker. Some bikes are different, and some valves can be defective, but I’m not going to say any names (Hon…da…..cough…cough). When racing, I recommend that you check the valves every 15-20 hours. Doing so will give you an idea about how long they may last. If everything seems good and they are still in-spec then you can screw everything back together and ride some more. If they are slightly out-of spec then you know they’re starting to wear out, but should still be good. HotCams makes a Valve Shim Kit (VERY useful if you deal with a lot of 4-strokes) which makes adjusting easy.

When to actually replace valves is often the harder question. Some bikes can go a couple hundred hours with the valves still in spec, but that is very unlikely if you are racing. I suggest you replace the valves around 40-60 hours. Hard starting is a common indicator of at least a valve adjustment because they are tight and out-of spec. If you are racing then it would be safe to just replace them when this happens. It may seem like a lot of work, but trust me when I say it’s cheaper to adjust or replace your valves every so often then letting them go until you drop one and grenade the engine.

What If I Trail/Play Ride?

Like I said earlier, I’ve heard of many people going 150+ hours on their four-stroke motocross bikes and still be good, especially on 450F’s because you don’t have to ride them as hard. I recommend, as long as you aren’t riding every single day, checking your valves about once a year. If they are in-spec then you should be go to good for some more riding. Adjust them if they are out of spec.

If you’ve adjusted your valves 2-3 times, then it’s probably time for some new ones. If you wait another time to adjust them it could be catastrophic…. If you have never had to adjust the valves on your four-stroke dirt bike, it’s kinda’ up to you on how long you want to go. I would replace them every couple seasons if I’m just trail riding, or after 100-200 hours.

What Is THE MOST Disregarded Part In Four-Stroke Engines?

What Happens When You Don't Maintain Your Bike

Timing chains are the most forgotten part when doing maintenance on a four-stroke dirt bike engine. Why is this little chain so important?  The big deal is that itcan break and blow up your engine, ’nuff said! Now if you replace it every so often it will prevent that from happening. I explained earlier how timing chains get worn over time because of the abuse they get from the high-rpm engines. Not only can they break from fatigue, but after so much wear and tear from spinning on the crank and cam(s) it will get loose.

When the cam/timing chain gets loose it can slip and cause the teeth on the cam sprockets to jump. The timing is then changed, resulting in poor performance. If it jumps too much then the valve(s) can eventually hit the piston because the timing is so far off. And when that happens, it’s over for good.

Now do you get the idea about why it is so important to replace the timing chain? I recommend replacing it every 100 hours of ride time. That’s usually every year, unless you ride a lot more. It’s a cheap part, and fairly easy to replace. It can save you hundreds in the long run if you just replace it after so long. Just call it ‘cheap insurance’.

Now you may disagree with me, but it’s pretty much a proven fact that Yamaha has been making the most reliable 250 and 450cc four-stroke motocross bikes. The other colored bikes would not last quite as long. But, within the past few years they have all stepped it up and got A LOT better. So keep this in mind when you’re in the market for a used dirt bike. If you are looking to buy a new 250f or 450f, then it’s pretty much pick a color and ride.

Have fun, and don’t forget to do “Preventative Maintenance”!!!

-Tom Stark

Originally posted 2010-12-05 10:26:06.

One of the worst things to do is haul your bike in a lifted truck. I see people do it, and it just makes me chuckle inside. The higher up the truck bed is, the more difficult and strength it will take to load your bike in it; naturally. So, you want to drive a pick-up with a low bed, or a trailer to make loading easier, especially if it’s just you.

Getting Help

The way I’ve always done it is: me and my dad each stand next to a side of the bike. We both lift on our side of the forks and handlebars to get the front wheel on the tailgate of the truck. We then lift up the rear of the bike by the swing-arm. Once both wheels of the dirt bike are in the bed of the truck, I hop up in it to hold the bike before it tips over. Also, before loading the bike, we set the tie-straps out and put the hooks on the loops in the front of the bed so they are ready when we get the bike up. We then put a tie-strap on one side of the handlebars, then lean the bike over and put the other strap on. Then it’s just tightening it down far enough so that the dirt bike won’t move.

Being The Lone Hero

Loading A Dirt Bike With A Ramp

For those of you that can’t, or plain just don’t want to get help, there are ways to load a dirt bike by yourself. The first way to do is putting a dirt bike ramp on the tailgate of your truck, and placing a solid bike stand along side of the ramp about a foot or two away from the tailgate. Push your dirt bike on the handlebars with a running start up the ramp, stepping on the stand as you push it up, and then stepping onto the tailgate once you get the bike up. This can be difficult at first for smaller people, but if you get enough momentum it is fairly easy.

Another way of how to load a dirt bike by yourself is similar to the first, but this time you aren’t using as much strength. Instead, start the bike and put it into first gear. You will still need some momentum, but you can let the bike do most of the work by slipping the clutch and giving it a little gas to get up the ramp. This does require some practice and technique, so if you aren’t confident then I wouldn’t try it by yourself.

The third way to load a dirt bike by yourself is the way that I do it if I have no help, but it cannot always be done. If there is a hill or slope, back your truck up to it as close as possible. Put a ramp on the tailgate, then push your bike slowly down the hill and onto the ramp. Make sure the tires stay in the middle of the ramp so it stays in one spot. If the hill is steep or big enough, you should be able to just walk onto the bed of the truck with your bike and strap it down. Remember that if there is no hill then you won’t be able to do this, so be prepared to improvise if you’re alone.

Since we have a regular or short bed truck, we cannot shut the tailgate with a full size motocross bike. Some people try to half-way shut it and strap it… I don’t worry about it. I just make sure the two straps are good and tight on the handlebars, and haven’t had any problems with that. You can add another strap or two to the pegs, frame, swing-arm, or rear wheel of the bike if you are that worried.

Don't Look Like This Fool

Good luck, and try not to look like a goon when you load your dirt bike!

-Tom Stark

Originally posted 2011-07-25 16:55:42.

Originally posted 2010-08-04 16:31:30.

Works Connection Rad Braces

I have a pair a Works Connection radiator braces for a YZ250F that I use. They are as simple to install as putting on your plastics, and they are hidden behind the radiator shrouds so it won’t look ugly. If you expect to crash often then these are great insurance. Instead of replacing just one radiator for $200+, and double if you replace both (go figure), you could have bought a pair of braces that are a fraction of the cost to protect them.

I’m not going to promise that these will withstand every wipe-out your radiators encounter, but either way you look at it, it’s still cheaper to replace a pair of rad guards than a pair of radiators themselves.

The Good:

-Cheap radiator insurance

-Easy to install

-Made of lightweight aircraft aluminum

-Unseen because they hide behind the rad shrouds

Insure Your Radiators With Works Connection Braces Here

The Bad:

-Won’t fit with most over-sized tanks

-Aren’t indestructible

I will use my Works Connection Radiator braces on my next YZ250F again and again until something happens to them. For the cost, it’s really not worth to not have some guards (a.k.a. it’s worth it to have them). If you’re worried about adding weight to your bike, don’t worry. These aluminum braces won’t be noticeable while riding. The added weight is like drinking a bottle of Gatorade before a race.

There’s not much else to say about getting radiator braces, so if you want to spend less in the long run this is your ticket.

-Tom Stark

Originally posted 2010-07-02 10:24:43.

UFO Plastics makes kits for almost every dirt bike that include everything you need to give your dirt bike a much needed facelift. Whether you just want to make your bike look new again, or you simply need them because yours broke, a plastic kit is an easy and relatively cheap way to do it. And while you’re at it, why not slap on some New Graphics to complete the look of an all new bike!

Not only will you look cooler on a shiny bike, but if you are trying to sell your dirt bike, it will be more appealing to possible buyers. This is not a joke; people are more likely to buy a dirt bike based on the “Looks” of it. If it is nice and shiny, and the plastics and seat aren’t all scratched up, people will often overlook the mechanical aspect of the bike. I’ve had this happen before (not that I sold bikes that had mechanical issues without informing them), and when I have new plastics on the bike, it almost always sells to the first person. It is not unethical to do when selling a used dirt bike because you are selling/buying “as-is”. It is the buyers responsibility to look the bike over for failures and/or ask the owner. Unfortunately, that is where honesty flies out the door. This is where buying a used bike is a risk, but that’s for another article…

Click  Here To Find a UFO Plastic to Fit Your Dirt Bike

Every time I’ve used UFO plastics, the fit has been perfect with no hole-drilling required. It looks just like stock, and the color matches as well. Below are pics of before and after putting some new UFO fenders on my bike (I installed new graphics too).

Good luck, and ride safe!

-Tom Stark

Beat Up YZ125

Fresh YZ125

Originally posted 2011-12-15 16:29:01.

Thorns On Trail

You know what I’m talking about if you have them or have ridden through them before. It hurts, especially when he thorns are as high as your head. Getting rid of them is the worst part. It gets very annoying when you’re out in the middle of summer trying to cut thorns down when it’s blistering hot out and they just keep poking you. There are ways to make this process easier, quicker, and get around it at times.

Don’t Call Me A Wuss!

I realize that some of you may be thinking to yourself, “Why don’t you just ride over the thorns, you big baby?!” That’s fine, because if I didn’t know any better I would be thinking the same thing. But the thorns on our land aren’t one foot in height. No, they’re often four feet tall, so they get in your face, scratch up your arms and neck. So once the day is over you are more red marks than not.

I would prefer to use big and heavy artillery, such as a bobcat with brush-cutting attachments to mow thorns and weeds down, but that just isn’t probable with the current economy right now. So, instead I’ve thought of other ways to do it with cheap equipment (some of which you might already have).

Suit Up For War…

When tackling sharp and tall thorns, you don’t go out in shorts, sandals, and a beater. No, you will want to wear thick jeans, a long sleeve shirt, and work boots. I know you may say that it’s unbearable to wear that much clothing in the heat of the day, but there are ways to get around this; more on that later. Besides, it better to sweat a little than bleeding your guts out. Some work gloves will also be useful so you don’t tear up your precious hands.

What Tools?

Hedge Shear

There are many tools that you can use to cut down thorns and weeds, but I try to make it as easy as possible. So, after suiting and booting up I took our old (and I mean old) hedge shear, which are fairly heavy duty and started cutting away. I already had my trails marked (click here for previous article Making The Layout), so I just trimmed the thorns and weeds to make about a 2-3 foot wide path. I didn’t take the time to get rid of every last inch of thorn on the trail, but I did cut most of the down close to the ground. They will grow back, so after cutting a good section of trails I hop on my dirt bike and ride over them about a dozen times to rip the rest of it up.

To Make Things Easier

I love it when there is an easier way to get a job done, especially when it’s just as good or better! I figured out, not that this should be surprising, it’s A LOT easier to cut and trim thorns/weeds during the fall and spring seasons. You can do it in the winter as well, but here it’s not very probable because we get quite a bit of snow here. When everything is dead/cold it will break more easily, so cutting them will take less strength and go by much quicker. Riding over thorns when it’s cold out really speeds up the trail building process because the tire really tears them up.

Thanks for reading. Feel free to comment or add suggestions, as I would love you hear your opinion on whether you like these articles or not!

-Tom Stark

Originally posted 2010-12-29 18:09:00.

Originally posted 2011-10-18 14:27:46.

Made With The Help of Orthopedic Professionals

Not only does the EVS RC EVO brace protect your neck and shoulders, but it’s built to reduce extension in the back; the cause of major spinal injuries. Neck and back problems come too often in this sport, which is why motocross protective gear companies teamed up with top orthopedic pros to construct the best possible solution. Ordinary neck rolls have been in use for road and kart racing for decades, but they only helped prevent neck injuries.

EVS RC-Evolution

The EVS RC-Evolution is a new kind of neck brace with its layers and modular collar. It also has straps and hooks that go around your body. All of this ensures a tight, yet ergonomic fit to your neck and shoulders. Although, it’s not a one-size-fits-all brace, so it’s a good idea to try one on and see which size fits you before buying. You can custom fit it to your liking as well with the adjustable height.

“The ultimate in neck protection provides protection against axial compression, hyperflexion, hyper-extension and lateral hyperflexion.” – EVS Sports

Pick Your Color!

Say goodbye to boring old neck supports… The EVS RC Evolution has five different colors to choose from to match your color gear and bike: black, blue, red, white/yellow, and pink (you can also get the RC EVO in Nitro Circus style as well). And for those that like to “pimp” out their rides, some graphics companies can sell you a customized graphics kit for your neck brace.

Isn’t It Like Having A Cast On Your Neck?

Now you may be thinking, how can you move around with all of this protection? In my own experience, yes, it does restrict your head movement to an extent. Does it stop me from doing anything needed? No, I can still look over in both directions, and that’s with my body armor on; which brings up another question. I wear an EVS BJ22 ballistic jersey, and the neck brace fits just fine even with the harness on.

It not only fits on most chest protectors, but it is ventilated and has soft rubber around the edges that make it more comfortable to wear. The sculpted bio-foam liner lets your neck breathe, and it doesn’t chafe against your skin.

I have been wearing the RC EVO neck brace when on motocross tracks, but I usually just wear the EVS RC2 Race Collar when I’m going for a trail ride or putting around the farm. I move around a lot on single-track trails, but still want protection, so the RC2 is perfect because it works and I don’t even notice when it’s on.

I’ve Heard It Can Cause An Injury Though…

Do seat belts kill people? It’s a controversial topic, but  at least 9 out of 10 times the seat belt is going to save your life. The same goes for a neck brace such as this. More often than not, the EVS RC-Evolution is going to help prevent or even stop an injury from happening when you have a bad crash. The odds are in your favor, which is why I don’t want to be caught not wearing mine while on the track. Yes, I’ve heard of people still getting injured with a neck brace on, but what are you going to say if you break your collar bone from a crash without having a neck brace on?

All in all, it’s a personal preference. Some people can’t stand wearing all these braces and extra padding. I know that it can limit my range of motion, but I’m plenty fine with that if it saves me an injury and a hospital bill.

Click Here To Buy an EVS RC-Evolution Neck Brace

Have fun, and ride smart!

-Tom Stark

Originally posted 2012-01-09 12:50:40.