MotoQuest Blog and News Feed

2013 IndoChina Motorcycle Adventure

Tue, 26 Nov 2013 23:38:28 -0900

IndoChina Motorcycle Adventure 2013

Magnificent photos with descriptions

By MotoQuest guide Lynn Brown

Hello to everyone! This is day 1 ( one day before the official tour beginning). The group of riders are slowly filtering in to Hanoi from various locations around the world. Some familiar faces, some new faces & lots of sleepy eyes from the long international flights.

Tonight is our welcome dinner at "Highway 4", which was recently featured on the Food Channel on TV. It will be interesting to see what the food selection will be. It's all going to be delicous, but sometimes questionable as to what it is. That's just part of the Asian experience.

Our trusty Ural bikes are being prepared for us as I write this.
These jewels of yesteryear are 40+ year old refurbished sweethearts with lots of experience.

Tomorrow morning, the group will be treated to a Hanoi city tour aboard the Ural's with sidecars. Obviously, we will be driven around by experienced Vietnamese rider/tour guides.

Now it's time to see the street scenes in the Old Quarter of Hanoi.

At a market tired ladies take a break:

Colorful markets:

Eggs anyway you like them:

Lunchtime on the street:

Honda with a side-car:

Our trusty road warriors. These are 40 year old Ural that have been reclaimed from the military & reconditioned. Surprisingly comfortable, clunky, sometimes ill starting, but real jewels to ride & the local Vietnamese people smile & wave at us everywhere we go.
We are riding historic machine in a beautiful country steeped in history:

Take a ride through Hanoi on side cars:

Nadav and our guide Hia:

Lady selling all kinds of clothing and knit toys. Asked her to let me put it across my shoulder and near brought me to my knees!

Alberto, from Mexico City, and Claude from Pa. Two bikers on the tour. Here we have dinner on the street:

Dinner at Mai Chau, Vietnam:

Overlooking the Black River Lake:

We prepare a daily picnic lunch in Vietnam, but Alberto couldn't wait......:

We chose to have noodle soup for breakfast this morning instead of the western style breakfast. Yum.......yum.... Breakfast in Nghai Lo:

While exploring the morning market, we spotted this very adorable young boy. He was very curious about us white skinned giants in his small world:

Fantastic local dancing by Hmong's in colorful traditional clothing:

Lynn at his best..:

Our traveling mechanic, who's name is Long, checks out the Urals before the day begins. He is an expert at kick starting the bikes when the riders can get them going. But the riders are taking personal pride in their ability to start the bikes. It's kinda one of those biker things.

A little secret I learned was to switch the key off, then kick the engine over a few times to clear the cylinders, then turn the key back on & with one very hardy kick, the bike starts & purrs like a kitten.

Oh....the joy of riding the lovely Ural

Our stilt house home stay in Vietnam:

Taking a ferry across the Black River Lake:

Our Ural motorcycles in the mountains of north Vietnam:

Beautiful & friendly children everywhere in Vietnam:

Yesterday afternoon, we came across a small clan of Hmong in a very remote area who were constructing a home for a family member.
Everyone works together, including men and women.
Everything is prepared by hand, including hand chisel mortise joints and hand plaining the wood:

Very happy Hmong girls. Scenes like this are a special treat for the MotoQuest gang here in Vietnam:

Mother & child. After taking the photo, I showed the photo to the mother and she was very happy. Possibly the 1st time she has ever seen a photo of her and her child together:

Ural #48. 48 could be the age of this old girl.
She's sporting a nice MotoQuest sticker:

Vietnam street sweepers:

Rice harvest season in northern Vietnam:

The Cat Cat Hotel in Sa Pa. Our hotel for tonight is in the northern mountain town of Sa Pa, with views that go on forever. Sitting here on the balcony, I can see mountains that rise up several thousand feet into the blue sky, plus look down into the valley below. Green and lush. I almost feel like I'm somewhere in Switzerland. Simple beautiful & in Vietnam none the less:

On the road to Sa Pa:

Morning in Sa Pa, view from my room:

Gang having breakfast in Sa Pa:

The gang waiting for a dynamite explosion at a road construction:

The dynamite explosion:

Mountain Hmong. At a Sunday market north of Dien Bien Phu:

Claude the giant. With Claude towering over everyone else at the Sunday market, it was very interesting to watch the Hmong's reaction
when he walked thru the market. Sunday market north of Dien Bien Phu:

This girl was a very intense shopper at the Sunday market north of Dien Bien Phu:

At the Sunday market north of Dien Bien Phu. Different Hmong groups. I count at least 4 different Hmong ethnic groups in this photo based on the color & styling of the clothes they wear:

Hmong ladies at the same very remote mountain market:

Eggs anyone?:

Local dinner fare of toasted grasshoppers and bamboo worms:

Local food stall at a night market in Luang Prabang:

Above Dien Bien Phu. The mountain roads here are narrow & we felt we were riding on our own private bike trail. This is the beginning of 2,500 ft. decent down to the Black River which takes us to Dien Bien Phu:

For you history buffs, the French were severely defeated by the Vietnam Mien (Vietnamese) in April, 1954 in Dien Bien Phu after a 58 day siege, thus ending the French Colonization of Vietnam & Laos. Shortly thereafter, the Geneva Agreement divided Vietnam into North Vietnam & South Vietnam at the 17th Parallel (DMZ).

We all know what happened next from the early 1960's thru the mid 1975..

Our resort hotel in Dien Bien Phu:

Last supper in Vietnam. Last Supper.....kinda.

Goodbye Vietnam..... hello Laos!

This is the final dinner we will enjoy in Vietnam.
Tomorrow, we cross the border from Vietnam into Laos..

Guess you are going to stay tuned to this fantastic SE Asia adventure for the next chapter, entitled "Laos" the country of thousand smiles.

See you in a few days on the other side of the border.

Oh....almost forgot, we said our sad goodbyes to our faithful Urals this afternoon. We rode them all the way from Hanoi to Dien Bien Phu, over rocks, thru mud holes; over high mountain passes, thru many Hmong villages, kicking them constantly (to get them started) and they faithfully brought us though to our final destination today. Sad tears were shared when we said goodbye for the final time.

Morning mist near the Vietnam/Laos border:

Next year, 2014, will commentate the 60th anniversary of the defeat of the French at Dien Bien Phu. Come join us next year:

Boat down the Nam Ou River. After crossing into Laos, we prepare to head down the Nam Ou River:

Rice harvest in Laos:

Morning in Nong Khiaw, Laos:

The Honda Baja motorcycles. Claude smiles as he checks out our steeds.

After a wonderful & restful night stay in our river bungalow at Nong Khiaw, our Honda Baja's are ready to take us on a Magic Carpet ride through the beautiful and serene country of Laos:

No tourists on the Nam Ou River.. (except us):

Victory arch in Vientiane:

One of the many beautiful temples in Vientiane:

Hot pot dinner in Vientiane. Did I mention that we had many delicious dinner experiences together?:

Peace & serenity in Vientiane:

Lao ladies wearing their fineries.
When we arrived in Vientiane, a large yearly festival was going on.
Many Lao monks from every corner of Laos had gathered at the main temple in Vientiane. The Lao people bring food and offerings to monks:

Reclining Buddha:

Let sleeping monks lie - a scene from a Buddhist temple on our tour of Vientiane, Laos on the last day of our IndoChina Adventure Motorcycle Tour with MotoQuest:

As the Indochina Tour comes to an end, I would like to personally thank everyone who experienced this wonderful part of SE Asia.

New found friends, adventures travels, unique and delicious food, photos galore, evening music by Claude & Bill, motorcycle riding at it´s best.

Now it's time to say goodbye, and I might say, a sad goodbye for this year´s IndoChina Tour.

Oh....but the memories will always be with us.

Now it's time for me to start planning for the next tour in Laos in January 2014.

See you then!
Lynn Brown, MotoQuest guide extraordinaire

Click here to find out all about our upcoming IndoChina Adventures:

http://bit.ly/IndoChinaAdventure

Colombia Sign up Deadline

Sun, 24 Nov 2013 17:34:28 -0900

Consider our Colombia Valleys of the Andes Adventure - Get ready to ascend above your expectations. Ask any rider who has traveled South America extensively and they will tell you that Colombia was the best. Why? Could it be the open smiles, the cloud shrouded mountains or the over-the-top accommodations? Let's face it, Colombia is a world-class destination and it is now winning all visitors over. Want to ride some epic roads and experience a proud and scenic corner of Latin America? Colombia delivers BIG TIME. Join us for a top-shelf adventure that will take years for the smile to go away...

Patagonia Sign-Up Cut off December 2nd

Our Patagonia End of the Earth Adventure starting February 2nd, 2014 is a confirmed GO. Riders are ready, and we have a couple of spaces still left.
This ride is simply spectacular - a must on your bucket list.

Come see...
- Gauchos
- The Andes
- Patagonia
- Condors
- and The End of the Earth...

Just Sign Up Now and get it over with.

Prices to go up for most tours December 1st.

Just Sign up for a 2014 Tour with us before December 1st and enjoy prices as advertised right now. Starting December 1st, prices on most tours will GO UP.

Book a ride in 2014 this week!

Gone Riding by Dom Giles

In 2010 Brit. Dom Giles bought a GS from us and set of on his adventure, traveling for six months down to Panama from Alaska. He then shipped the bike to South Africa and took three months to ride up to Nairobi from Cape Town. His book of this adventure - Gone Riding - has just been released and is getting rave reviews. Have a look at this from US based Moto Underground website

Now Available on Amazon.com

Be amongst the first to get a copy!

New American Southwest Itinerary and New India Dates

Mon, 18 Nov 2013 09:49:15 -0900

We have just changed our itinerary for our American Southwest Adventure. Same great roads, but we are going to run the schedule in reverse. Want to see the very best of the Southwest, including Route 66, the Grand Canyon, Moab and Zion? Then get your gear ready for March 22nd and we will see you in Vegas!

Laos: Sign Up Deadline TOMORROW

Our January 19th Laos Adventure is a GO and we still have a couple of spaces available for this remarkable ride.

Ever want to see the Plain of Jars, look for Tigers in a preserve or walk the streets of the World Heritage City of Luang Prabang?

Spend two weeks in Laos and explore one of the friendliest countries in the world.

Register Here for a world-class experience.

MotoQuest on Pinterest!

Check us out on PInterest.

One of our favorite collections on Pinterest is MotoQuest TV, where you can see all of MotoQuest's videos in one simple spot!

New Videos: First Cut Films from Patagonia

Ever want to know what it is like to be on a MotoQuest Tour? These three raw footage diaries follow an adventurous group of riders from Osorno, Chile to Tierra Del Fuego. This footage is not edited, but will give a great idea of what riders experience day-to-day during our Patagonia End of the Earth Adventure.

2013 Patagonia End of the Earth Raw Footage Part 1 of 3 by MotoQuest

2013 Patagonia End of the Earth Raw Footage Part 2 of 3 by MotoQuest

2013 Patagonia End of the Earth Raw Footage Part 3 of 3 by MotoQuest

California to Alaska

Mon, 11 Nov 2013 10:11:10 -0900

Our North to Alaska Extended Adventure takes you from Long Beach, California all the way to Anchorage, Alaska. This is a 22 day odyssey featuring the VERY BEST of California's Sierras and Pacific Coast Highway, mixed with the Cascades of Washington, Frazier River Valley of British Columbia and finally the wide openness of Alaska. During this ride you will see more of the North American Continent than most.

Tripadvisor and MotoQuest

Check out what riders are saying about MotoQuest on Tripadvisor.

Find out why people ride with us again and again. Can it be THAT fun? Yes it can!

Isle of Man TT The Speed of WOW

Mon, 04 Nov 2013 01:15:25 -0900

Try NOT to say "WOW" when one of the racers speeds by during our Isle of Man and Wales Adventure. The TT races of the Isle of Man combine history, velocity and exitement into one wild and unforgettable experience. Spend 5 days on the Isle of Man, then cut loose on the scenic roads of Wales. We have limited space for this trip, and reservations for ferry and accommodations for the TT are made a year in advance.
Prices will GO UP on December 1st for this tour...
so BOOK NOW and get ready.

India Touch the Sky Adventure is SOLD OUT

If you were thinking of joining our epic India Touch the Sky Adventure, we will have to put you on a waiting list for next years' ride to the Highest Motor-able Pass in the World (as well some other pretty ridiculous roads).

However, due to its popularity, we are considering running another tour earlier in August, to be guided by Kagan Young.
If you are interested in this earlier date, please let us know at: info@motoquest.com

MotoQuest in Vietnam Right Now!

Our group just arrived in Hanoi for our IndoChina Adventure. If you would like to join our group on Facebook as they venture from Hanoi, Vietnam to Vientiane, Laos, just click HERE and then "Join".

If you want to Join our IndoChina Adventure next November and save some $$, BOOK before December 1st.

Long Beach IMS Show: Rent and Enjoy California

When you come to check out the Progressive International Motorcycle Show in Long Beach, from December 6 - 8, consider Renting a BMW and exploring around Southern California while you are there. Why NOT?

Pacific Coast Highway Dreamin

Sun, 27 Oct 2013 22:23:31 -0800

There is a ribbon of road that snakes along the Pacific Coast of California, Oregon and Washington that is NOT to be missed. It is a blissful mixture of sea mist and towering giants. Join us on our Pacific Coast Highway Adventure, and find yourself riding a dream filled with exceptional natural beauty. From Redwoods to surf, from coast to 8,000 foot mountain passes...this ride will leave you breathless.

Lynn's Mexico BLOG

MotoQuest Guide Lynn Brown just wrapped up a great ride in Mexico during our Mexico Best of Baja and Copper Canyon Adventure, and you can READ ABOUT IT HERE.

Oh....and there are some great pictures too!!

If you are even thinking of Mexico, join us for this epic two week trip, featuring Baja and world-class riding on mainland Mexico.

Head south of the border with us March 8th!

Dan's Patagonia Pics

Dan Masliah first rode with us in Alaska, but last year joined us for our Patagonia End of the Earth Adventure.

He has compiled a great collection of his photos for you to enjoy.

Check out Dan's Patagonia Pics, and take a stroll through Patagonia for a minute. It's cheaper than a plane ticket and fun.

Thanks Dan for sharing!

Our next Patagonia End of the Earth Adventure starts February 2nd.

New Adventure Motorcycle Travel Book!

Dom Giles purchased a motorcycle from us in Alaska, and took it around the world.

Gone Riding is a tale about motorcycling and volunteering across two continents.

Want to just quit your job and live your life?

Check out this book to get inspired.

2013 Mexico: Best of Baja and Copper Canyon

Thu, 24 Oct 2013 03:22:55 -0800

2013 Mexico: Best of Baja and Copper Canyon
Diary by Lynn Brown

Motoring down Mexico Highway 1 in the Baja, very little traffic, blue sky, warm temperatures, BMW motorcycle purring like a kitten, life is truly good.

Lunch stop today is Guerrero Negro is always a favorite of mine. Sautéed white sea bass is the choice. Guerrero Negro is also the dividing line between northern Baja and Baja Sur (south) and is also noted for the harvesting of sea salt and whale watching (California Grey's) during the winter months. This is also our last peek of the Pacific for a few days.

After a fun evening of merriment and bench racing in Ensenada, the group slowly crawled out of bed the next morning to begin another day of adventure riding.
First stop was Santo Tomas, a lush valley noted for its fine wines. Then through the open region with its many arroyos, small villages with topes (speed bumps), various species of cactus and occasional peek of the Pacific over our right shoulder.

Lunch stop was Mama Espinoza, a long time restaurant and check point for the Baja 1000 races since the early 1960's. Lots of racing memorabilia everywhere.
The sunset over the Cirios cactus (a tall slender species only found in this region of Baja) was spectacular. Our overnight stay at Catavina was welcome and comfortable. This area is known for ancient cave paintings and huge boulder the size of houses. Ancient giants must have enjoyed playing games of marbles with these gigantic round rocks.The end to another great day.

Lots of fun adventures over the past few days.

Arrived in La Paz, Baja mid afternoon to hot temperatures, crystal clear blue skies, delicious seafood on the Malecon and a relaxing swim in to resort hotel pool. Margaritas with homemaker chips & salsa. Uh-lala......

The next afternoon, the gang boarded the ferry for Mazatlan. This ferry is very comfortable with sleep room, decent Mexican food & lots of cold beverages to be enjoyed during the Sea of Cortez crossing.
After a restful nights sleep with a light hum of the ferries engines, we arrived at the port of Mazatlan around 10am.

A 20 minute ride thru the town brought us to the El Cid Resort Hotel. A quick change back into our swimsuits & it was pool time again. After an afternoon of total relaxation it was time for a great steak dinner at one of my favorite eatery.

Today's ride from Mazatlan to Durango over the Sierra Madre on the twisty infamous Devil's Spine is what motorcycle riding is all about. Miles and miles of curve after curve for 250 miles in mostly 2nd and 3rd gear, on the throttle, off the throttle, grabbing handfuls of brakes, repeated over and over, from to sea coast to high mountain pines, vista views in all directions. You can see why this is considered one of the top 10 bikers roads in the world. Just think... You can do this ride with us in March 2014.

Durango is a beautiful colonial city withs its pedestrian only walking around the Cathedral, great shopping & excellent restaurants make for a great end to another day of this tour.
But there's more to come, like Copper Canyon......stayed tuned.
---

Saturday night in Durango turned out to be fantastic. Our hotel, located on the pedestrian only street adjacent to the big Cathedral in the heart of the city made for the best of the best street entertainment.. Seems like everyone dresses to the nines, then strolls up and down this street. Beautiful women in their finery, men looking like they just stepped out of GQ magazine, young kids on their best behaviour and, to top it all, there was a half marathon at 9PM. This is one lively town on Saturday evenings.

Our Italian restaurant, also located on this great street, prepares some of the best Italian food found outside Italy. Not to discount the excellent Mexican food we have been consuming, but a change in diet was good.

Next morning, a few of group visited the Cathedral during morning mass. What a treat! Loading the bike again, we headed north towards Parral.

On the scouting trip to Mexico in December 2012, we discovered a special road just made for MotoQuest riding. This road is new concrete with curve after curve, over and thru the Sierra Madre with breathtaking views that go on forever. On any MotoQuest Tour, we try to find the best roads and this is no exception. We have tagged this road as one of the best roads in Mexico after the famous Devil's Spine. In 65 miles, we met one vehicle, 4 cows, 2 cowboys and a few grasshoppers large enough to cook and eat. No one else, just us bike riders.

This was the perfect day on a motorcycle.

Parral is another Colonial town where Pancho Villa met his doom. He was assassinated by some of his personal bodyguards. Entering the first round-a-bout in Parral, a larger than life size statue of Pancho on a horse greets us. Our hotel in the centro is literally in the heart of the city. Great people watching as we enjoyed our evening beverages and dinner. Just around the corner on the other side of the big Cathedral is some of the best ice cream anywhere.

Next morning, we continue north dogging up and over the Sierra Madre on our way to Copper Canyon. After lunch we ventured part way down the newly constructed paved road going to Batopilas, but as most road construction goes in Mexico, the road was blocked by house side boulders, causing us to turn around. But, before the turn around, we were able to enjoy the breathtaking views into the canyon of all canyons. It is said that Copper Canyon is twice as deep as the Grand Canyon in the USA and four times as large. It is impressive to say the least.

On our arrival into Creel, we were greeted by light rain sprinkles and a warm fire in the large fireplace at the lodge where we stay. After dinner, we joined a group of Mexican soccer (or football down there) fans and watched Mexico defeat Panama by a score of 2 to 1. Great evening.

Next morning, since the rain was coming down in bucket fulls, we chose the explore the mountain town of Creel and let the bikes rest in the rain. At almost 8,000 ft. elevation, most buildings are constructed of logs instead of the typical stucco. The train came thru around noon heading west into the Copper Canyon on its way to Los Moches. Enjoying a nice lunch of pizza from a second floor balcony, we were able to check out most all the daily happenings in comfort and out of the rain.

The next morning, it was sunny and cool. Time to continue north again towards Nuevas Casas Grandes. We loved the 42 degree riding, especially after the 90's in La Paz. Wonderful curvy roads thru forested areas, followed by high desert dotted with typical small Mexican towns, followed by another run over the Sierra Madre on our way to Buenaventura where we tried something different for lunch. Would you believe, a Chinese Buffet! It wasn't the best and luckily none of us got sick. Maybe it was the ice cream across the town plaza that neutralized our lunch.

Our arrival into Nuevas Casas Grandes brought us to the Hotel Hacienda, where we rode our bikes into the inner court yard and parked our trusty seeds beside the pool, just a stones throw from our rooms. No dragging our luggage up flights of stairs, just opened the door and threw our stuff inside. Steak dinner that evening more than made up for our questionable lunch.

Next morning, and our final day in Mexico, took us north and west again over the Sierra Madre one last time. Along the way, we encountered a Military checkpoint that had a line of at least 200 large 18 wheeler trucks literally at a stand still. We simply jumped in the left lane and proceeded slowly until we arrived at the head of the checkpoint. The military guys just smiled at us, especially when they found out none of us speak Spanish, and told us "adios".
---

Last day:

After the Military-checkpoint-guys told us "adios", we arrived in Aguas Prietas just across the US border from Douglas, Arizona.

The crossing couldn't have been more simple. We turned in our Mexico vehicle documents at the Mexican immigrations, rode around the corner into US Customs, answered a few questions and were were back in the good old USA. Just that simple, maybe 20 minutes or less.

Since it was lunch time, we headed to the Pizza Hut for some gringo food. Lunch at the Pizza Hut in Douglas has been a tradition of mine for many years and the gang really like the call.

A relaxing ride north thru Bisbee and Tombstone and to the beautiful resort in Sabino Canyon in Tucson for the evening. A grand farewell dinner overlooking the lights of Tucson was a fitting end of a fantastic Mexico & Baja adventure.

The entire group of riders had nothing but praise to say about Mexico and it's warm and friendly citizens. Motorcycle riding at it's best from mountains to oceans to deserts was enjoyed by everyone. This is a truly amazing adventure just below the US border into the heart of Mexico. The false rumors about Mexico being dangerous and unsafe to travel is totally false and not true. Over the entire 2 weeks we spent in Mexico, we never once felt endangered. We were continually greeted with happy smiles, welcoming handshakes and warm hospitality. Come and see for yourself in March 2014 when Motoquest Tours ventures into Mexico again.

Adios and good bye until next March.

Prepared by Lynn Brown, your faithful Motoquest guide extraordinaire.

Patagonia End of the Earth or Beginning

Tue, 22 Oct 2013 09:34:49 -0800

Now, there has been some debate whether Ushuaia at the southern tip of Tierra Del Fuego is the End of the Earth or the Beginning of the Earth. But one thing is for sure: riding to the farthest southern point of South America is unforgettable. This ride is one for the memory banks. During our Patagonia End of the Earth Adventure (Beginning of the Earth?!), you will experience rain forests, oceans, wild rivers, enormous lakes, vibrant mountain peaks, and cross paths with the Gaucho.

MotoQuest Guide Jeff Mariska

We are very pleased to have Jeff Mariska back guiding for us! Jeff lives in Alaska, and has guided for MotoQuest in India, Alaska, Peru, Argentina, Chile and South Africa. He will be our lead rider for our February Patagonia End of the Earth Adventure. Ride with Jeff and you will know one thing for certain: his love of life and enthusiasm for showing the best riding, eating and scenery is contagious. See Jeff when you get off the plane in Osorno, Chile when you start your bucket list ride.

Colombia is almost SOLD OUT

If you are even thinking about joining our Colombia Valleys of the Andes Adventure , get on board quick, as we only have a couple of spaces available. This is one of our newest rides, and it has sprung into popularity! Why? Because Colombia is amazing!

Dates: February 9th to February 22nd.

Goal: Pack your bags for adventure.

Motorcycle for Sale

We have a few BMW GS Motorcycles for Sale in Long Beach California.

Check here for prices and info.

MotoQuest used bikes for Sale

Thu, 17 Oct 2013 09:46:08 -0800

MotoQuest Bikes for Sale

inventory as of October 21st, 2013

ID	Make	Model	Year	Mileage	Color	Features	Accessories	Photos	Price
3551	BMW	R1200GS	2011	70,837	White	ABS/Heated Grips	Engine Guards Upper and Lower, Aluminum Skid Plate, Hand Guards, Luggage Racks, Headlight Guard	Photos	$10,999
1150	BMW	R1200GS	2011	50,619	Black	ABS/ESA/Heated Grip	Engine Guards Upper and Lower, Aluminum Skid Plate, Hand Guards, Luggage Racks, Headlight Guard	Photos	$11,999
4329	BMW	F800GS	2012	51,791	Black	Heated Grips/ABS	Engine/Radiator Guards, Aluminum Skid Plate, Hand Guards, Headlight Guard	Photos	$9,399
2073	BMW	F650GS	2011	52,582	Orange	Heated Grips/ABS	Engine/Radiator Guards, Aluminum Skid Plate, Hand Guards, Headlight Guard	Photos	$7,799
1458	BMW	F650GS	2011	69,468	Blue	Heated Grips/ABS	Engine/Radiator Guards, Aluminum Skid Plate, Hand Guards, Headlight Guard	Photos	$6,999

Become a Better Rider

Mon, 14 Oct 2013 10:26:44 -0800

Want to have fun and learn how to become a better rider at the same time, without the structure of an organized class? Our Backcountry Explorer Adventure in Alaska will do just that. This itinerary is designed to challenge every level of rider from beginner to advanced. We have had first time dirt riders come away with smiles and skills that last a lifetime. And, our professional staff are past off-road instructors, so you can get all the advice and attention you need before you go out and have some fun.

Tripadvisor for MotoQuest

We have started a page on Tripadvisor and we are already blown away by the response. Find out what riders are saying about us. Add your experience too!

Prices GO UP starting December 1st!

Sign up for any 2014 Tour or Rental before December 1st and enjoy our pricing we offer today. Do NOT hesitate, as we will need to raise prices on most tours and some motorcycles we rent.

BOOK NOW for an organized tour and save on a 2014 ride.

You Are Touring Iceland - Are You Serious?

Sun, 13 Oct 2013 06:25:23 -0800

You're Touring Iceland – Are You Serious?

Answers to this and related questions

By Scott Keimig

The whole group

Why Iceland of all places?

Well, why not? My Norwegian heritage is the foremost impetus. Iceland was settled by Norwegian adventurers and outlaws (often there was little distinction) around 874 CE, and I enjoy investigating global aspects of my ancestry. Also, Led Zepplin's Immigrant Song may factor-in: remember the lyrics, "We come from the land of ice and snow, of the midnight sun where hot springs flow." Lastly, I find puffin birds quite cute, and I thought I might glimpse a few on the trip (little did I know).

About 40% of our roads were gravel or hard-pack. This shot is along the south coast near the volcano Eyjafjallajökull, which is easily pronounced just as spelled (but only after 3-4 shots of brennivin)

Where is Iceland?

Geologically, Iceland is the westernmost country in Europe, and, simultaneously, the easternmost country of North America. How can that be? The tectonic plates of Europe and of North America are pulling apart under Iceland, and this accounts for much of the volcanic and seismic activity that distinguishes the country. Economically, it is part of Europe, but is not yet part of the ECU, so it uses a national currency. Meteorologically, it is within the Gulf Stream/North Atlantic Drift, so temperatures are substantially moderated along the coast and lack the extreme temperature fluctuations of areas at similar latitudes, such as Fairbanks – the northernmost landmass of Iceland is only a few miles south of the Arctic Circle. In eleven days of riding, our temps ranged from 40 to 65°F. We never saw heavy downpours, but did encounter an hour or two of drizzle on four days, and continuous light rain on only one day. Roughly 80% of riding was under either blue or overcast dry skies. But, high wind speed is another story. Generally, calm conditions prevailed until noon, and then winds would intensify and quickly become strong, gusty, and relentless. Wind was our primary riding hazard, while Iceland's "killer sheep" were the secondary hazard. Free-ranging sheep congregate on the edge of paved roads to access the absorbed solar warmth. The ewes and rams have street-sense and likely will not encroach your line; however, the lambs are about as predictable as squirrels or white-tail deer, i.e., not predictable at all.

Enjoying the sun, the solitude and the view in Myrdalur

Riding by the waterfall Dynjandi

What is the riding like?

We rode a little over 2000 miles with about 40% on gravel or hard-pack dirt. The paved 60% was via Route 1, commonly referred to as the Ring Road as it takes an 850-mile circuit around the island and is generally close to the coast. The asphalt on this narrow two-lane "highway" was in good repair and consisted of endless sweepers where the 90 kph speed limit was seldom obeyed. Traffic on the Ring Road was quite sparse once out of Reykjavik, and the few cars that were present signaled safe conditions for a bike to over-take – auto drivers were courteous to riders and seem to expect bikes would maintain a brisker pace. Similar circumstances generally existed on gravel roads, although the pace was just a little slower. However, such unpaved roads were often single lane, and the quality of gravel and hard-pack surfaces could deteriorate rapidly and often without warning. Tunnels, whether paved or gravel, were universally one-lane and had pull-over niches to allow passage of on-coming traffic with the right-of-way. Of special interest to adventure riders is a system of utility service roads into the desolate Interior Highlands, which is an arid, unpopulated plateau, consisting of rocks, bigger rocks, the occasional glacier, and ice-cold streams fed by glacier melt. These so-called F-Roads (rough trails in truth) are restricted to 4WD utility trucks and adventure-crazed motorcyclists. Caution is advised when riding F-Roads, as they may provide much more technical riding than what you are used to. Loose gravel and sand, rocks big as bowling balls, and deep ruts are the norm. Water crossings are numerous as there are zero bridges in the Interior Highlands. Our tour made only occasional (and optional) use of F-roads.

The approach road to the glacier filling the crater of Snæfellsjökull is limited to SUVs, motorcyclists, and anyone else crazy enough to try it. This volcano in western Iceland is the setting of the portal into the earth in Jules Verne's Journey to the Center of the Earth.

Riding the Interior Highlands requires many stream crossings. This is near Dæli in northwestern Iceland.

How did you rent a bike?

There is but one motorcycle dealer in the country, Reykjavik Motor Center. It has a 50-bike rental fleet of BMW and Triumph dual-sport bikes under the aegis of its partner company, Biking Viking. This particular tour was in partnership with MotoQuest, Inc., an Alaska-based tour operator that specializes in adventure tours of off-beat locations; Iceland slots perfectly into their business niche. MotoQuest subcontracted bikes, an Icelandic tour guide (Thorgeir Olason), and a support van from Biking Viking. MotoQuest owner, Phil Freeman, and Biking Viking co-owner, Jón Sigurgrímsson, accompanied the tour. The tour started in Reykjavík and journeyed counter-clockwise around the country with a three-day excursion into the desolate Vestfirðir (West Fjords) peninsula.

MotoQuest trip - Biking Viking bikes

Describe the accommodations and meals:

Iceland is a first-world country (granted its economy is recovering from a national banking collapse) that is dependent on tourism as a principal source of income, so it has a flourishing hospitality infrastructure. It is, however, the least sparsely populated country in Europe with only one city of any size – the second largest city, Akureyri, has a population of 18,000. Most hotels we visited were 30 rooms or less, and a couple were farms with guesthouses. All were clean and comfy and most had an in-room radiator, which was very welcome to dry-out gloves and boots. As for food, you will find some unusual items in the national cuisine menus, e.g., minke whale, puffin bird, horse, and fermented shark. A few of us sampled these items, but I was gratified to stick to an incredible variety of fisherman's catch of the day, or free-range lamb, and addictive skyr as dessert. The local beers are tasty, as is the national drink, Brennivín; a delectable schnapps locals waggishly call "black death".

Puffins are the only animals in Iceland that outnumber sheep.

Although rustic, Toggi believes this West Fjords restaurant serves the best food in Iceland. This is baked plaice and is incredibly succulent (all you can eat, too).

In the fishing village Siglufjordur

Did you ride on any volcanos?

Uhmmm, it's hard not to ride on Icelandic volcanoes, as there are 180 of them in the pocket-sized country. Only 19 volcanoes are "thought" to be active, but given the country's immediate position over the mid-Atlantic fault line, magma can reach the surface in unexpected areas and at unanticipated moments. The most famous volcano we rode (and the most challenging section of the tour due to intense fog on this F-Road) was Snæfellsjökull and its associated glacier – science fiction fans may recall that Jules Verne situated the entrance to the center of the earth at Snæfellsjökull in his novel Journey to the Center of the Earth.
How do you pronounce Eyjafjallajökull It's quite easy. Simply pronounce it phonetically exactly as it's spelled; although this process is helped if you have downed a few shots of Brennivín J. The Ring Road passes about 20 miles from Eyjafjallajökull, which is the volcano that shut down European air travel for a week in 2010.

Gas stations take on some very unusual shapes in Iceland.

The male part of the group..

Knowing what you now know, would you tour Iceland again?

In one of Drew's "New York minutes"! Also, I'd highly recommend touring Iceland to other riders with a sense for adventure and appreciation for the fantastic. One of my friends used a Beatles lyric when describing Iceland as a magical, mystical island – very true, and it also makes for brilliant riding. And, if you have to limit your time in Iceland, put the Vestfirðir (West Fjords) peninsula at the top of your list. Lastly, you won't find a better tour guide than Toggi, an authentic Biking Viking.

Thorgeir "Toggi" Olason, an authentic Biking Viking as well as sculptor, teacher, business owner, national champion motorcycle ice dragster, and tour guide. You are a lucky rider if you ever get a chance to ride with him.

Book Now and Save Prices go up on December 1

Fri, 27 Sep 2013 12:47:58 -0800

Last year, we raised the prices of selected tours. This year, we will be raising prices ON ALL TOURS to reflect price changes that have happened throughout the past couple of years. BOOK BEFORE DECEMBER 1st and you will be guaranteed today's price!

KLR Rental Prices are LOWER for our 2014 Alaska Season!

We have been able to reduce the prices for our Kawasaki KLR 650's. Book one of these versatile motorcycles and see more of Alaska than most Alaskans. Why not?

India ALMOST SOLD OUT

Our India Touch the Sky Adventure has a fresh new itinerary and ever since we have announced it last week, we have had a flurry of excited riders sign up for this extraordinary event. We only have a few spaces left for what will be a truly adventurous ride on incredible roads that defy logic to the highest motor-able pass in the world!

If you are even thinking about joining this tour next August 23rd through September 12th, REGISTER NOW before it is too late.

Curry at 18,000 feet?

New Tour Itinerary for India Touch the Sky Adventure

Mon, 23 Sep 2013 11:43:11 -0800

India is one of our most challenging rides. During our Touch the Sky Adventure, you will ride a Royal Enfield motorcycle, venture to the highest motor-able pass in the world at Kardhung La, and experience the epic Spiti River Valley - the road the Ice Road Truckers took when they came to India. The Himalaya Mountains are the highest in the world. Add to this the sheer exhilaration of riding roads that just seem impossible....and you have a world-class adventure. MotoQuest founder Phil Freeman will be leading this ride and it is sure to sell out soon, so if you are EVEN THINKING about joining this trip, get your deposit in! Let's Ride India!

The American Southwest Adventure

Our American Southwest Adventure starts this week. For those who are interested in this ride, but could not make these dates, consider joining our next one: Saturday, March 22nd - Sunday, March 30th 2014

See the best of what the Southwest has to offer. This ride is based in and out of Las Vegas, Nevada. Want a great paved ride with dirt options? Look no further.

Kevin's Blog on our Backcountry Explorer Adventure

MotoQuest teamed up with Gateway BMW of St. Louis, MO and took a group around Alaska the back country way.
MotoQuest guide Kevin Hagerty wrote a BLOG about it. Check out his description and photos of this great ride!

Our next Alaska Backcountry Explorer Adventure will be Friday, July 25th 2014 - Saturday, August 2nd 2014

Transporter Special! Portland, OR to Long Beach, CA

Ride a BMW 700 GS Twin from Portland, Oregon to Long Beach, California for $40 per day! Check Info Here

Calling all the ladies

Fri, 13 Sep 2013 11:39:09 -0800

Each summer we round up a group of adventuresome ladies to explore Alaska with us. It happens at the end of June, what better time is there?? Departing less than a week after the summer solstice, there will be plenty of sunshine on this group! The weather during this period of summer is clear and the temperatures are extremely inviting. You've been wanting to ride Alaska with a group of like-minded women, this is your chance!

Going Multi-Cultural!

On Friday, you saw the Photos from our South Africa Backroads Adventure. Did you know over 11 languages are spoken there?? This variety matches the variety of its peoples. Diversity doesn't stop there though, the country flourishes in four major industries; Gold, coal, fishing and diamonds. Let MotoQuest lead you on an educational experience through this beautiful region of the African continent. Challenging riding and a plethora of wildlife are just the tip of the iceberg in South Africa. Check out the Tour Page and visit our bio on guide Steve Thomas, He's more than qualified for this one!

Wonders of the West

So you've seen our American Southwest Adventure and love the idea, but need something a few days and dollars less. We give to you a Wonders of the West tour. It is six riding days with a departure in and out of our Long Beach, California Location at the end of March. Ride some of the best known roads in the southwest as well as some hidden gems we've grown fond of. Notable highlights include the Grand Canyon, Route 66, Death Valley National Park and Vegas baby! This is a ride chock-full of amusement and outstanding scenery. There are too many highlights to list so go to the Tour Page for more convincing!

2013 Gateway BMW Alaska Adventure

Thu, 05 Sep 2013 01:07:49 -0800

Gateway BMW Alaska Adventure - August 2013

Blog by Kevin Hagerty

Day 1:

A great Alaska Bluebird day to ride the Glenn Highway one of the ten most scenic highway's in America from Anchorage thru Palmer past Matanuska Glacier. We lunched at Sheep Mountain Lodge and continued Northeast passing Tazlina Glacier to Glenallen. A large purchase of fireworks and then on to Copper Center where we pitched tents and set up camp for the next 3 days.

Day 2:

Another beautiful day and we are off to Kennicott Mine an active restoration project by National Park Service to preserve a significant part of Alaska's rich mining history. A stop to view the fishwheels on the Copper River where we took a group photo. Then a 60 mile ride out the gravel road to the mine observing local wildlife. Shannon made a new friend at the mine, we were treated to a movie detailing the operation of the mine, and enjoyed a first class lunch on the veranda of the Kennicott Lodge. A challenging ride out the old wagon trail left everyone wanting for more.

Day 3:
We are off to Valdez to see Prince William Sound, we again awoke to clear skies and a breathtaking view of the entire Wrangell Mountain Range. A three hour trip down the Richardson Highway with a stop at the top of Thompson Pass to climb Worthington Glacier. Once in Valdez we spent time at the Salmon Hatchery then a view of the Alyeska Pipeline Tank Farm. We enjoyed a great fish lunch at the Halibut House. We then split into two groups the Fisherman led by Tom who not only caught salmon but also cleaned it and enjoyed his bounty over an open fire that night at camp. The other group headed up Mineral Creek Trail where at the end we observed a very important message from the State of Alaska. Back to Copper Center for an evening of libations and fireworks.

Day 4:

Moving Day we break camp say goodbye to Emily our charming morning drink waitress at the Copper Center Cafe and we off for Gracious House Mile 82 of the Denali Highway. With a beer restocking stop outside of Glenallen we head off for the 60 miles of gravel road dodging the army of Caribou hunters that invade the area this time of the year. Camp setup was delayed while the support van experienced one of the perils of the Denali Highway a flat!!! The repair was further delayed by a defective jack, luckily a hunter with a jack appeared. People in Alaska always help one another.

Day 5:

Today we finally found some of the elusive Alaska rain, not enough to dampen our spirits or quest to ride to summit of Valdez Creek enjoy the view and a self prepared sack lunch. Then we were off to Windy Creek to face the challenge of riding a muddy trail back to the old mine at the end of the trail. Hospitality at Gracious House was as stellar as always. Carole's assortment of home made pies were a hit at the end of each day. Next it was back to fire to see if we could get any of the Missouri boys drunk enough to put a beer can on their head and shoot it off with a potato cannon!!

Day 6:

Again we were greeted with rain! After a morning maintenance session undaunted we set out to master Wickersham Creek. After 2 1/2 hours of picking up bikes out of the mud and sliiiiiding down the trails we thru in the towel and headed back to camp where we enjoyed our soggy sack lunches Bob started out with vanilla pudding than transformed to chocolate during the umm ride. Jim expressed his joy of the day with an expletive rant aimed at the lead guide yours truly. Once everyone recouped we were treated to camp cocktails by Ovi from Southern Vermont. Soon after the remainder of our fireworks arsenal was dispatched with vigor.

Day 7:

Today we break camp and head for Anchorage with an optimistic expectation to get a peak at the tallest mountain on the North American continent Denali at 20,322 feet its so tall it develops its own weather patterns. The mountain decides if you are going to get a look at it or not, today was NOT. We lunched at Mary Carey's McKinley View Lodge. Mary is very famous in Alaska although I am not sure what for. After lunch we continued south on the Parks Highway to Willow where we traversed a very foggy Hatcher Pass. From there it was on to Anchorage where we were greeted with hot pizza and cold beer at the shop high fives were exchanged and the packing process began for the flights home. All began conjuring up images of the next adventure destination..

2013 Iceland Highlands Adventure

Thu, 15 Aug 2013 23:18:33 -0800

Iceland Highlands 2013

Blog by Phil Freeman

Day 1:

Wow, first a geysir, then a waterfall and then the moon. The landscape is incredible off the beaten track of Iceland. Prepare yourself for some sand, some water crossings and the feeling of awe.

Day 2:

The day started off challenging from the start. We knew that the highlands would be rough, but we had no idea....
First off, we needed to retrieve the motorcycle with the flat tire left down the road a few miles.Then, the gasoline pump at the remote hotel we stayed at would not work - something to do with no internet connection....a problem that could take up to 5 hours to fix. So, instead of waiting, we opted to travel down the road 50 K to another gas station in the opposite direction to gas up and then return past our original location towards the highlands. By 11 AM, we were finally on dirt roads, heading for the interior. Gradually, the road went from dirt to rocks then a little sand, and then mostly back to rocks. It was one of the roughest roads we had traveled and it stretched on to the infinite distance. On the horizon, spectacular creeped up on us as the foot of glaciers spilled out, distant snow capped mountains crept by and the lunar landscape seemed to engulf us whole.

As the road was full of large rocks, you had to keep a watchful eye on it, so you did not have the luxury to take in all the scenery as you went. If you did..."BAM!" a rock would challenge the suspension and tires. Standing of the pegs, with velocity up, and watchful eye, we motored on. Around lunch, the problems started.
The first casualty was the front rim of the Triumph Tiger: split and useless. It has hit a rock hard and the cast metal could not take the punch. It sat split and unusable. We did not have a spare front tire, so we loaded it in the van, and I gave up my bike so that the rider could continue.
After lunch, the second stream crossing swallowed up one of the bikes and the totally submerged BMW refused to start after we fished it out of the river. So, we spent the better part of 2 hours in the open, chilled wind taking out the spark plug, draining the water out of the cylinder and getting it back together.

As we were doing this, one of the riders arrived to announce that another rider, while crossing a river ahead of us, was swept downstream and the bike and the rider were stranded on the other side!!
So, the Iclelanders made a plan to get some park guards with their beefed up 4x4 and trailer to give us a hand, and rescue the rider. The original submerged bike was put back together and was running, the chill wind was chilling, and we were half way back to getting on the road. We followed the Rescue 4x4 to the next river, and they loaded his bike into their trailer and we rendezvoused back at the crossroads where we had set up a temporary bike shop. The rivers at this time of the day we rising at an alarming rate. These glacial rivers are on the move, and the later in the day, the more difficult it is to cross them. Unfortunately, considering our late start, we just could not, as a group make it past this river. The rider was ok, but when you put the key in the ignition, the horn went off. Indeed, after 30 minutes of being submerged, it was toast.

We watched some locals cross the same river from the other side, and they walked the river first, then used the current to their advantage by going downstream as they crossed. Even so, they were on the brink of losing it when they crossed.
So, now two bikes in the support van, gear up to our ears, and three in the truck. We had to change our plans at this point, and find another place to stay, as the rivers would not allow us to continue. We chose a route that avoided the rivers and this late in the day, we started off.

20 K down the road and another front tire went as a casualty. This time another Triumph front tire, split at the rim. I had warned the riders to take it easy, but.....
We tried to take off the tire, but as we found out later, that precise tool was taken out of the tool kit and was back in Reykjavik! So we left the bike in the middle of a vast desert and continued on into the night to our lodge.

We finally arrived at our rented farm house by midnight after a crazy day of motorcycle triage.
As we arrived we went about preparing a meal of BBQed beef, boiled potatoes, and cole slaw. Beer started to flow and laughter started to rise and by 2 in the morning everyone was either in bed or singing happy. This farm house turned out to be the saving factor of the tiring day, as everyone could relax and socialize in the spacious rooms, or just step out to enjoy open country side. Peaceful is a great way to put that place.

Day 3:

As a bike was down and a full 2 hours away, our Icelandic team procured the right tool from a nearby farmer and raced off to bring it back. As Murphy's law would have it, they forgot to get the key to that bike, so when they got there, they were forced to load a 3rd bike into the van. They gingerly returned on the rocky road and the group waited patiently until they were back. At 1:30 PM, the van arrived with two tired Icelanders, three bikes and some work to do. The entire group went to work: putting gas in bikes, changing tires, loading and unloading what was necessary from the van...it was something to look over 13 people working in unison without any one of us directing. We all knew what we had to do.

Fortunately, we had short day ahead of us, and it could not have been planned out better. The gravel road north turned to pavement, and we had already successfully crossed the highlands of Iceland the first time. We arrived at a gas station next to Godafoss - a beautiful waterfall.

Gassed up, we took off down the road. At that moment, another Biking Viking van arrived with two spare bikes for us. They were to take the two inoperable bikes off our hands and give us ones that would put us back on the road. What a service, as we were all the way across the other side of the island!!
And, as we made our way down the highway, one more flat tire happened! Even on the tarmac, flat tires were getting us!
The group went on as we waited for the truck to come save us. We arrived at our hotel and repaired the bikes, as the rest of the group went on to Dettifoss waterfall, the grand daddy of them all. When they arrived back to the hotel, they were all smiles and that waterfall can have that effect on people.

Day 4:

This was to be the easiest day of the trip, as we had to take mostly paved routes across the top of Iceland west so we could set up for another run at throughout the Highlands the next day. We tried to pick as many dirt surfaced roads as possible along the way.

We left the lakeside town of Reykjahlíð and our comfy hotel and sped west. First, we sped through a lava garden, then past some old volcanic cones and then by a breathtaking waterfall. Typical Iceland: amazing geology around each bend.

We stopped in the University city of Akureyri to do some shopping. We would be entering the highlands again, and would not have any restaurant...so we had to pack a lunch for the day, and have something for us to prepare and eat for the night. Lamb loin, potatoes and salad were decided on and we loaded the truck and we were off. We left town to the north and entered a tunnel like no other: one way with pull outs for our side every 200 meters so we could let oncoming cars pass...this was both exciting and a little scary!

We took a short gravel pass road in to the mountains. The scenery was stunning, snow, sheep, steep mountains and unadulterated rivers charmed us as we sped by. Back on the coast and mountains to the see, and large, jutting rocks bursting out of the ocean.

Rain came as went as we finally pulled into our farm stay, right on a world class Atlantic Salmon stream. That night, we were served lamb, cabbage salad, potatoes with an extremely yummy cream-based sauce, and chocolate cake with a butterscotch syrup. Wine and beer flowed as the canadians told bigger and bigger tales. Gradually all of us drifted to sleep, but not after some of the worlds problems were either solved or created.

Day 5:

The rain came on steady as we rode a loop along the coast. We visited an old fort, ate lunch out of the rain and prepared for another campaign into the Highlands. After the rain shower everyone learned whether or not their gear was up for the task. Most were wet all the way to the boots. The real key to motorcycle touring is to stay dry, and after trying all sorts of gear, I found that you need a rain suit that covers you from head to toe. I have been using a set made by Olympia Moto Sports and it has kept me 100% dry, even in the most heaviest of downpours. Boots and gloves are also key, and if you don't have waterproof boots, waterproof socks are a good alternative. After 15 years of adventure touring, I finally broke down to using a rain suit, and I have never regretted it!!

The second part of the day was fantastic. The clouds cleared, and we took some back roads towards the highlands. Clear water streams, farms poca-dotted with white, plastic-wrapped hay bails, and Icelandic horses lined the way.
The farms melted away and we climbed to a lava plateau that stretched out before us. The road turned to gravel. Far in the distance, a glacier oozed its way out of the clouds. No traffic, nobody: we were back in the highlands. The riding was fun on the gravel. Not having much traffic and the open spaces made it peaceful.

We pulled into our accommodations for the night, it was something out of adventure travel show. Steaming vents hissed as we checked into our room. Yes room! We were a party of 13, and they had a small house for us to stay in - all of us with just a bunks, a simple kitchen, and 5 to 8 european backpackers staying upstairs! The bathrooms were all the way across the parking lot and there were a garden of tents growing in the distance.
I could not believe that we would be putting the entire group (some of which had paid for single occupancy) into just one room!!
Indeed, this was a scouting trip, so I had told the group that not all would go as planned, and their expectations needed to be low. By this time in the trip, to my surprise, they were happy with this arrangement.

On the deck, there was a brood barbecue, and we had brought all the food we would need for the evening: marinated lamb loin and steaks, potatoes (to be cooked with feta cheese, garlic, onion, and hot peppers, and several types of salad. Yes, we would survive. The most amazing part of this whole place was the thermal hot spring that was right beside the house! As we arrived, several people speaking different languages lounged around in the outdoor rock-made pool. Two pipes delivered the goods: one was hot water, the other was cold. Quickly, the group got into action: they grabbed their towels, some grabbed beers and they were in the pool lounging.
Smiles, laughter and thermal steam...what a combination! All the while, the thermal vents next door threw their clouds of geologic heat into the air and it drifted past us. Off into the distance, you could see the foot of the glacier. Indeed, this was a very special place.

Later that evening, the barbecue was on, the potatoes were cooking and the steaks were grilled....a great ending to a world-class day of adventure.

Day 6:

This was our last day of the ride and it seemed to be over so quick! Fog and drizzle clung to the ground as we headed out. Seeing was a challenge as we zig-zagged our way over the moonscape. After a short while, it lifted and large glaciers appeared on both sides of us in the distance. This landscape never stops to fascinate: large slabs of crusted lava, vast lunar plains of sand and rock, enormous glaciers reaching out to us from the sky...Not a patch of green in sight. The gravel road was littered with large rocks and mud puddles.

After over an hour, the gravel road descended into a green valley and turned to pavement.
We stopped for gas and lunch at the Geysir, the sun heated us up and we headed out for one last adventure. Toggi, our Icelandic Guide, picked out one of his favorites. We spent an hour riding along a power line across the moon with glaciers peering at us.

A couple of water crossing and sand traps later, we were all smiles as we made it back to pavement for the last time.

As we entered Reykjavik, it seemed so strange to see so many cars and building. We had gone to the very center of the highlands where no man lives and now we were going through the reverse shock of being back in civilization.
We checked in the bikes, the hotel and met for dinner that evening. We sat at a fish restaurant overlooking the harbor and enjoyed a fantastic meal as the riders recanted the adventure they had just shared.
Perhaps never again this same group would be together at the same table. They came from all walks of life but shared one thing: a love for the sense of adventure. We had gone to highlands and had survived unscathed. We now would part to the four winds and all there was left to do is look back with a smile and look forward to the next adventure! What next?

2013 Iceland - Fire and Ice Adventure

Tue, 06 Aug 2013 03:29:10 -0800

Iceland Fire and Ice August 2013

Blog by Phil Freeman

Day 1:

We started with a chill wind and clear skies as we headed out of Reykjavik. Our first stop out of town was an overlook of the thermal plant with sends hot water to Reykjavik by tube. They mix fresh lake water with super hot steam to make this, and it heats Reykjavik for cheap.

We went on to see Geysir, where a hot water vent shoots up every 10 minutes or so to the applause and awe of the crowd.

Down the road we went to Gullfoss - a spectacular waterfall with thundering power.

After that , we went across the countryside. Round hay-bails wrapped in plastic dotted the landscape. The Icelandic horse, which is everywhere, greeted us as we swept past. We arrive at Seljalandsfoss waterfall, my favorite of the whole trip. Its unique because you can walk all the behind it. We went on around the corner to Skogafoss, another great waterfall. Its uniform torrent looked more like a curtain than a waterfall! We hiked to the top to look down. Waterfall after amazing waterfall: At this point our Kiwi proclaimed "This is more beautiful than New Zealand!" Wow, what a compliment.

We ended the day by climbing to the Dyrholaey point, where a lighthouse was perched on the most southern point of the country on a tall, massive rock. A black beach meandered off into oblivian on one side, and rocky spikes, a tidewater lagoon on the other. We watched Puffins negociate the sheer cliffs, somehow landing on just inches of real estate. To top it off, a breathtaking arch jutted out into the ocean and when you turned 180 degrees the massive Myrdalsjokull glacier krept its fingers towards us. It did not look real!!

Day 2:

We went past the town of Vik and explored and up and back dirt road at Hofdabrekka, and for 14 wonderful kilometers we went to the moon, mars and some other planet!

After that, we skirted the mountains and past the wasteland of Myrdalssandur...something out of Morder, with braided glacier-rivers, volcanic rock and flatness. We crept our way towards the massive glacier of Vatnajokull, the largest of all glaciers in Europe with several of these rivers of ice spilling out in front of us. We could see the top of the Hvannadalshnukur Mountain, at 2,110 meters, looming above it all.

A little later down the road we ride to a garden of icebergs, a small lagoon and glacier at Breidarlon. A little more down the road and we are one of the most stunning sights anywhere, the Jokusarlon lagoon, with its icebergs, massive lagoon, war between fresh water river and ocean tide, and thousands of Arctic Terns, nesting and fretting about...this was a total collision of nature that can't be explained properly and is one of the most unique places I have ever been on earth.

The late afternoon was filled up with more waterfalls, glaciers, farmland clawing to the sides of velvety green slopes and then we ended the day with castles of rock straight up from the sea to the sky and a nice North Atlantic wind. Our end of the day was in the small village of Breiddalsvik, a nice beer, some lamb and rice and bed! Whew!

Day 3:

..and the North Atlantic hands it to us: gusts of wind and a speckling of rain greet us in the parking lot. As I looked over to the mountains side, a cascading waterfall was highlighted by a ray of sunlight...this place is impossibly beautiful. We headed inland to cross the highlands. We edged to the back of a valley, the jagged, snow-capped peaks on both sides of us just scream out: try to tame me! Waterfall after waterfall launching off a sheer cliff face to our right as we climb into the clouds. Suddenly we are in the soup. In the Highlands, the landscape was particularly lunar. All around us, as far as the eye can see is absolutely inhospitable, flat, grey....there is a particular sensation of loneliness and beauty here, like no other landscape I have seen. The wind never let up, the North Atlantic is on the phone.

We stop in a small oasis, a grass shod roofed hut and enjoy a warm bowl of lamb soup. This oasis has a church, a restaurant, a few houses and gas station and the only way to get there is by dirt track. No crops in the field No! Just a plain of volcanic pyramids drifting off into the mist..... (Modruvellir)

We ride on to a thermal power plant, warm our hands to some coffee and information as to how it all works. Then on to some steaming vents, their sulfuric hiss is eery and smelly, to say the least. Fascinating to walk around such power coming from the earth. (Námaskard)

We then ride on to the grand daddy of them all: Dettifoss Waterfall, and the walk in is just like you landed on the moon. No green to speak of, just grey volcanic jumbles of rocks, and a crisp rainy side wind...but when you reach the waterfall, its thunderous announcement is unmistakable. This huge torrent of power is like no other and all you can do is stand in awe. Niagra, eat your heart out, this is Dettifoss. No carnival here, just raw nature with power.

Our last jaunt of the day was a dirt track through to the north coast. The road was washboarded with large puddles. The wind tore at us and rain would not let up. But at the end of the day, all the riders loved this road more than any other, just for the sheer fun of bulldozing through so many puddles! We all made it to our destination wet, tired and full of stories. Each of us has a lot of fun, despite the weather. If you come to Iceland, you have to endure at least a couple of days of such weather, but when the sun does come out, oh! is it good to be here! All part of the adventure, as they say.

Day 4:

We woke on day 4 to another call from the North Atlantic weather gods. They were agitated. Cold wind and misty rain greeted us as we suited up and headed out. However, the rain let up almost right away, but the wind did not. We went along the north coast with its sheer cliffs and pounding surf. The road stretched out before us with no guard rails as if it were a grey ribbon.

We stopped in the small town of Husavik and visited the Whale Museum. What a treat! The displays in information were insightful and well done.

We pulled into Akureyri just around noon and went directly to the Motorcycle Museum there. An ecclectic collection of old, new, cruisers, enduros and sport bikes. We sipped coffee and took it all in. Then hit off to our hotel and lunch.

The group spread out and explored Iceland's second largest city for the rest of the day. It happened to be the day of a great celebration - of the youth - the concerts, cotton candy and fireworks were out of the ordinary for this northern outpost. The windchill was 3 C, but the Icelanders did not care, this was a party!

Day 5:

Today we headed north to the northern most city of Iceland, Saudarkrokur, the herring capital of the world. On the way, we enjoyed decent weather, mountains, cliffs, oceans and of course the ubiquitous waterfall. We went through the mountains in a tunnels like no other: one way constructions with pull outs for one side of the traffic every 200 meters. So, you go into this tunnel, and suddenly realize there is only one lane, and there are headlights coming towards you! You look for the "M" sign ahead, and duck in for safety!

At Saudarkrokur, we stop off at the Herring Museum. Three non descript buildings harbored boats, steamers, pressers and all the information imaginable about the herring boom of the early part of the century. Then to coffee and lunch, harbor side to the backdrop of snow capped mountains in all direction. The rest of the day was filled with beautiful coastal riding, and a pass climbing up and through the mountains...Clear water streams and green sided slopes dominated the landscape. We veered off the main highway and went up a broad river valley to our accommodations that evening.

We got in early, so the group decided to do some exploring. We took a road that went right into the Highlands...and as cut across a vast plateau, a group of Icelandic horses spotted us and came running straight for us, down the jeep trail. As soon as we got close, they turned around and ran in front of us for a couple of kilometers. A distant glacier, mountain and flat plain were the dramatic stage for this most Icelandic experience.
We ended the day peering down into a gorge cut right out of a lava flow, clear water cascading through. The Kiwi proclaimed: " In New Zealand, this would be a national treasure. Here in Iceland, this is just another side of the road thing. "
It's true, Iceland just has so much natural beauty, its overwhelming.

Day 6:

We headed first north to visit the ruins of an abandoned fort (Borgarvirki). What they were defending and whether it was a fort or not were both debatable.

The road we followed hugged the ocean and meandered along the coast for some time. After gassing up, we finally were officially in the West Fjords. The clouds dissipated, the sun broke through as we enjoyed great views of rivers, broad valleys, far off snow capped mountains, and a road that at times paralleled the sea just meters away. There was absolutely no traffic and the road stretched out before us for miles on end. The weather really helped, but it would be easy to say that this was some of the best riding anywhere.

We stopped for lunch in the town of Holmavik at a nice little pizza and stuff restaurant. Afterwards, the group went over to the Museum of Sorcery and Witchcraft. Shrunken heads and Necropants were the order of the day in there...Necropant?! Pants made of Human Skin! OK.....

We finished the day climbing up and over one of the fjords on a dirt track that was partially abandoned. The road was a little washed out and had some soft spots with lots of gravel, but on the downside of it, you were met with one of those natural scenes that made you tingle: tall mountains rose sharply out of the ocean and spread out in front of you as far as the eye could see...lovely. The Icelanders will tell you that the West Fjords is the most beautiful part of the country and they are not wrong.

We pulled into our farm stay that evening and it was strange to take layers off in the hot sunshine...the first time in days! Horses roamed in the valley, hot springs baths welcomed some of our crew and some of us just grabbed a beer and sat outside and caught up on work and hobby. The dinner was fantastic and ranged from trout to lamb curry with delicious deserts to follow. Laughter carried around the table all night.

Day 7:

Just when you think you have had enough great scenery, roads ect...and you think you have seen it all, Iceland holds one more card...This day we woke to a fantastic breakfast full of fresh breads, salmon, and jams.

We headed deep into the Western Fjords today and though the weather was cloudy and at times rainy, it did not matter a bit, because the scenery just kept getting more and more fascinating. Fjord after epc fjord, the total mileage for the day as the crow flies was 28 miles! However, our route took us to the point of every peninsula and the back of every fjord and just when you thought it was over, they added a waterfall.

Most of the day was spent on dirt surfaces, either looking out across the water at the distant mountains, snow covered, impenetrable, or looking straight up at the towering spires of mountains, just at the edge of the water.
The colors and textures were those of so many organic, raw fabrics...the volcano is the mode, and time is the artist. Riding along the fjords of western Iceland never gets tiring. The solitude is unfathonable, the roads are a sheer pleasure and the traffic...Traffic?!

We stopped off at a small house for some tea. There, the caretaker told us the story of 20 people living in this place. Rock foundation, windswept rocky shore, fjord out front, mountains all around...The ceilings were just around 5 foot 9 inches. How did they do it?

Around another corner and we arrived at the harbor town of Ísafjörður, for the best meal of the trip. The house the restaurant was in was one of the oldest of all of Icaland and the food was fish: fish soup with a creamy texture and then a gigantic pan set out on the table full of cod, potatoes, onions, and cooked in a delicious oil and spices. Yes, they knew their fish!

We went on to the Dynjandi Waterfall, its braided cascade spilled over a high rim, and tumbled down almost to the ocean. It is regarded as one of the best of all of Iceland. Considering that there is almost not a time when you can't see a waterfall, this is something!

We pulled into the town of Bildudalur - a town off the tourist map and it was just 5 pm. We decided to head out to the end of the road, and visit a unique church constructed by a hermit many years ago. The dirt road edged right along the ocean and the breath just got sucked from your lungs as you stared literally straight up at these tall cliffs along the way. At one point, nature decided to throw you a white sandy beach, light aqua blue water to the backdrop of these cliffs. Come on nature, stop it!!

As Bildudalur does not have much for tourism infrastructure, and no hotel to speak of, we contact the local everything guy, and had places in a home ready for us, and a dinner waiting at the local Sea Monster Museum. There we were, eating drinking to candle light, soft music with pictures of Sea Monsters to join us over a lamb dinner. Why not?

Day 8:

Mechanical problems set us back from riding: a wheel bearing decided to go out on one of the triumphs, so our Icelandic crew had to run to the next town to fetch the part. We sat idle for over an hour, walking the docks, watching the traffic (two cars went by) and generally stood around talking and solving the world's problems.

Bearing in, we are on the road. This little fishing town on the edge of civilization was surrounded by extraordinary mountains....at some point in Iceland, you just resign to the fact that everywhere is exceptional. The entire group agreed that it just DID NOT STOP. One amazing scene was replaced by another, to the point that you almost become numb to exceptional geological examples. Waterfall? Why not add rugged coastline? How about a snow covered mountain and then a waterfall? Iceland can produce this all, endlessly. Add pretty horses, please.

Up an over a pass and we are paralleling stone mounds. Markers made from viking times so travelers don't get lost in the fog. We stop at a gas station and Toggi, our Icelandic guide pronounces: there is no food for the rest of the day. We eat gasoline station hamburgers and like it. This is the edge of it all.

Down the road, we come onto a fork, and take it...a road that leads to the most western point of all of Iceland (Latrabjarg), and in fact Europe. Just 180 kilometers from Greenland! We have been traveling about 40% on gravel surfaces, and this road just had some topsoil thrown on it, and it is slick! After 50 kilometers, we come to a lighthouse and some tall cliffs. Out over the water, somewhere, lies the enigmatic Greenland. Along the cliffs, little puffins sit around, looking cute. We joke that they try to get you to come close enough to the edge so that you fall off...that is the way they survive. Its the Puffin you should fear! Perhaps this way of thinking makes it easier to order them in the restaurant?

We finish the day skurting the southern coast of the West Fjords...Mountains, river valleys, and ocean are thrown at us. We come to rest at a remote roadside lodge and cabin situation. All smiles here, as again, Iceland delivers dreamy landscape and open roads like no other.

Day 9:

We are on the road at 9 am and our first stop is Erik the Red's home (Eiriksstadir - Haukadalur). Inside the sod structure was a woman dressed in traditional Icelandic garb and recanted the story of his life by firelight. All of this was totally unexpected and we loved it. This Erik went to Greenland, and was indeed the main marketing guy that sold everyone on the fact that Greenland was the place to be, though it wasn't. And it was his son, Leif Eriksson, who went on to Nova Scotia and set up shop for a couple of years. Columbus, eat your heart out. The take home message for me was, back in the day, in Iceland, if you wrongfully kill someone, there will be several years where these is an open bounty on you, and anyone can kill you back. Why don't we have that policy?

We headed out to the end of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula just north of Reykjavik, past the towns of Grundarfjordur and Olafsvik....and to a "Cave of Water". There, we dawned helmets and took up flashlights and spent 45 minutes explore a cave a lava flow had made.

The weather turned bad: misty and cloudy and we stopped one last time to check out an arch on the seaside before heading to our farm shelter. It's hard to believe that there is only one more day of riding. We have seen so much in these past days...I don't think anyone in the group wants it to stop.

Day 10 - Last day:

Great friends, riding and adventure. Thank you Iceland!

At the roots of Snaefellsjokull glacier:

Snaefellsnes Peninsula:

Iceland: A Motorcycle Diary

Mon, 15 Jul 2013 07:21:02 -0800

eGarage in Iceland: A Motorcycle Diary

Words|Photos: Ben Abrams

It's no secret anymore. Our population is exploding. Our cities are getting intensely crowded. Manufacturers are producing cars as fast as they can to keep up with the escalating demand. The congestion and traffic within the world's major metropolitan areas are bursting at the seams. A microcosmic example – my commute – what once took me 25 minutes each way, has doubled in duration over the course of one year. There seems to be no escape from the bumper to bumper grind.

It is because of this, and in interest of preserving my own sanity that, once a year, I must get out of town and get out of a car. Some motorcyclists refer to cars as "cages" and not because they're generally safer than a motorcycle, but rather because they confine you from the outside world. Cars can isolate the individual, effectively putting on blinders to what goes on outside it. Being on a motorcycle forces you to wake up your deadened senses. The way I ride my senses are on constant full alert. My periphery is widened to its maximum and my head is on a constant swivel – it's a natural mind and body "upper". However, any good touring rider knows that the body should stay relaxed to prevent fatigue and hasty movements; this state of high mental alert combined with physical relaxation is conducive to a form of meditation that turns these trips into exactly the escape I need.

Up until now, my motorcycle trips have been limited to Europe and within America, but I have seen majestical places such as the Swiss Alps and the oil fields of Alaska. I have a long bucket list of places I've yet to ride and I fully intend on checking each one off as long as I'm physically able to do so. When I received an email from Motoquest announcing there was still space left on their 11 day trip around Iceland, dubbed "The Fire and Ice Adventure" I was intrigued. Iceland was not on my bucket list, but why not? It seemingly checked all the right boxes. Exotic location, exciting roads, and unique landscapes. I signed up with very little hesitation.

I enjoy going into these trips semi-blind, with very little research and very few expectations. An open mind into a brand new experience and a brand new place, with the only constant being the motorcycling, allows for no disappointments. The only goals for the trip was to not sit in traffic, get out of a car, and to "grip and rip". I packed my gear and next thing I knew, I was in Reykjavik starting the journey.

In fact, there are no disappointments. If I were charged to easily describe the topography of Iceland, I'd have to use some Hollywood favorites as a reference. Specifically, take the Lord of the Rings and combine it with Total Recall plus a bit of Lost, and there you have Iceland. The idyllic farmlands, volcanic fields, black sand beaches, gushing waterfalls, alpine peaks, and the massive, glistening glaciers – this country houses all the best features of the rest of the world. If restricted to the US – it's a little bit of Colorado, Idaho, Arizona, Hawaii, Alaska all in 103,000 square kilometers – roughly the size of the state of Kentucky (according to Wiki).

There are two larger cities in the country where much of the population is focused, otherwise the outlying villages seemed awfully desolate. The only signs of life throughout the countryside are the wrapped bales of grass scattered throughout as the farmers ready winter provisions for their animals. With a population of only 320,000 people, it's no wonder that I hardly saw another car once out of the cities. Quite a welcome contrast to being consumed in the stop and go of bumper to bumper traffic in the big city. The pressure and taste of the water that flows from every tap in Iceland is remarkable as vast networks of pipeline and countless steaming huts reflect the country's admirable harnessing of and reliance on geothermal energy. The distinct waft of sulfur creeps through my helmet every so often. I keep myself fueled up with this lovely water and vast amounts of espresso.

There is one road that circumnavigates the country, the Ring Road. It is without question the most well maintained road I've experienced in all my travels. The absence of cars and trucks means that there is less oil on the road and overall less wear and tear to the road surface. Maybe it is because of the sheer lack of people traveling but I often feel as if the road had been freshly paved just for me to blast around on unencumbered with speed and fervor. It is 832 miles (total mileage traveled was approx 1500 miles) of delight for me and the two-wheeled weapon of choice – the Triumph Tiger XC. They are 832 challenging miles, not because they're technically difficult to navigate, but because the landscape is so distractingly magnificent that I often find myself conflicted – slow down to 90km/h and look around or turn it up to 150km/h and have a blast. The Tiger is not conflicted however, it does everything very well. From sustained triple digit jaunts to off-road switchbacked excursions, it gobbles up everything I throw at it.

Feeling alone on the island and free to ride as fast as I wanted is a welcome change from sitting in bumper to bumper traffic for hours every day. Much like a day at the track does for a driver, Iceland allows me to blow out the cobwebs and hone my high speed two-wheel skills, which, without a doubt, make me into a safer driver on the road. I don't care how fast your daily driver is, the numbing, repetitive action of in-city driving will inevitably loosen the nut behind the wheel. The off-road opportunities here also provide limitless potential to update my skill set as well as scratch my exploratory itch.

An unexpected and very special trip to the Iceland Automotive Museum prove that synchronicity is alive and well. The frequent sightings of the widebodied monster offroad excursion vehicles that the natives use to navigate the fjords and winter terrain remind me that my true love will always have four wheels (and often large fender flares); but a yearly grip and rip session is absolutely necessary to fill my tank as well.

More pictures of Iceland Automotive Museum here - http://bit.ly/NrkXNv

The occasional errant sheep and the quickly overwhelming fog present more of a hazard to the spirited rider than police ever do. However, on the last two days, Iceland shows me its wrath in the form of wind. Besides gravel or oil, it's a biker's worst enemy. While riding quickly down a dirt road, being tossed about by 40-50mph gusts and pelted by sideways rain, I thought of a metaphor. Making it safely through those treacherous conditions requires the same skill and strategy as life itself. As life is bound to throw out surprises from all directions, losing traction will be inevitable, but it need not mean you must lose control. Keep your eyes focused down the road instead of right in front of you; the bike will always steer where your eyes look and if you focus on where you want to go instead of what you want to avoid, you'll stay safe and on course. Grip the handlebars firm but not tight and allow the bike to wiggle instead of overreacting or overcorrecting. And, as always, if you are running low on gas and are doubting whether you'll be able to get your next stop, make sure you fill up your tank along the way.

** this trip is dedicated to Nick Boeree, the surgeon who gave me back a pain-free life 6 months ago. I wouldn't have been able to do this trip without his involvement. He died shortly after he operated on me and was killed doing something both he and I love – motorcycling. RIP Nick **

Isle of Man and Wales adventure 2013

Thu, 13 Jun 2013 00:42:28 -0800

In the beginning, there were interesting issues. First was at London Heathrow, where an Airbus ingested a bird on take-off and made a crash landing, followed by the complete closure of the airport. This delayed arrival of several of our group. Then extremely heavy rains all over the UK. But, as the sun always shines on my MotoQuest tours, the clouds go away, the sun comes out and we jump on our motorcycles in Bournemouth and head for Stonehenge on the Salisbury Plains. The bright yellow fields of the rape seed and the silky smooth rural country roads make for a photo ride. The comforts of the Castle & Ball Hotel in Marlbourgh, a 1600's era hotel, located on High Street has the most comfortable beds to let jet lag catch up on.

Next day we arrive in Liverpool, where to our surprise, a large contingency of naval ships are docked at the Albert Pier. Very interesting to see Russian sailors exchanging photos with Canadian and British sailors.

Next morning we jump on the Isle of Man ferry and sail out the Mersey River (remember the song by Jerry & the Pace Makers). As the rains again stop, we arrive at the port of Douglas. Sunshine greets us again as we debark on the Isle made famous by the TT races, the oldest motorcycle road races in the world (1st race in 1907). It's time for he race to begin.

Lynn, the tour guide and Simon, our always-happy van driver are all smiles. The group of riders is fantastic. They come from far and wide; Boston area, Colorado, Arizona, British Columbia and Idaho. The love of motorcycle riding and the thrill of riding on the Isle is pure pleasure for everyone.

Our accommodation at the Sulby Glen Hotel is located directly on the racecourse. This also happens to be on one of the fastest sections. In fact, Guy Martin was clocked going 204 MPH (not Kms) this afternoon. Sidecar units, no taller than my kneecap scream by at 140 MPH (running only 600cc engines). There have been a few hiccups in running the race this year. Occasional rain causes temporary stoppage and last evening a house fire at Kirk Michael (again on the race course) forced the races to stop. The fireman did a splendid job of dousing the fire and the races continued. The races are all important to everyone on the Isle, be it locals or race fans.

The paddocks (or pits) is a magical place. It is open to the public, where one can get up and close to the race bikes and their riders. It's quite common to rub elbows with John McGuiness, the current and 14 times TT Winner. Or meet a privateer new comer who may be tomorrow´s winner.

When the races are not being run, there are many miles of sweet narrow Isle roads to explore. The coastal roads to places like Peel with it´s old castle ruins and inviting sandy beach. Or have tea and crumpets at Bride, on your way to the northern lighthouse. Then there is the Calf of Man on the SW coast or Castletown and it´s well preserved castle. So many places of beauty on the Isle.

But the icing on the cake is the 37.73 mile racecourse, which is a public road around the Isle. As you ride your bike around the route, so many familiar names are recognized; Bray Hill at the start, Braddan Bridge where delicious homemade treats are available, Ballacraine the fast section with a blind over the hill that all the riders call Balla-Scary, the Ballaugh Bridge, where all riders go airborne as they negotiate a quick hard left then over he bridge then a hard right while sailing through the air. After Ramsey, riders maneuver the switchbacks as they head towards the famous mountain section. Running wide open, this section separates the men from the boys. Then it's down the mountain and past the Creg-ny-baa Pub, where patrons raise their glasses of ale to the racers. Then it's the finish line, where the riders twist their throttles for the 2nd lap. For the fast riders, they have just covered the 37.73 miles in 17 minutes at an average speed of 130 MPH (remember this is an overall average speed).

When the races begin, the course is closed to the public, so all of bench racers find our favorite place to watch the race with a camera in one hand and our favorite beverage in the other. That is the good life at the TT race on the Isle of Man.

As our time comes to an end on the Isle, we are venturing into beautiful and lush green countryside of Wales. Before boarding the ferry, we were treated with some very exciting races first hand in Ramsey. The racers come screaming down the straight into the town square, where they make a sharp right hand turn, then loft their front wheels as they accelerate up the switch backs heading towards the Water Works and the mountain section. What an exciting way to end our time at the TT Races and say bye to the Isle.

Back on the ferry from Douglas to Liverpool, it's relaxation and nap time.
When we disembark, the sun is bright and the M roads (freeways) are almost devoid of traffic. Shortly, we cross over into Wales and the roads are a motorcycle riders dream. Perfect asphalt surface, scenic beyond belief, enticing curves and no police in sight. We cover the 90 miles to our hotel in hyper time. Our hotel for the next 2 nights is located in the heart of the Snowdonia Region (highest mountains in the UK). It is impossible to either spell or pronounce the Welsh names of the villages we visit.

Our journey continues to Crickhowell and the Bear Hotel. The food is delicious and the beds comfort our weary soles.
Over the Black Mountain on narrow roads (really narrow ....6 ft wide) and to the picture perfect village of Usk. Mid day tea and toast at the Nags Head Inn is a must. Finally we cross the Severn Bridge and turn for the home stretch. A few miss turns in Bath, a great lunch in a roadside-inn and we arrive safely back in Bournemouth where the journey began almost 2 weeks earlier.

Our farewell dinner at the Belle Italia is a time for recalling our adventures, experiences and sharing many memories.

Our tour group began as strangers and ends as one big family. The most difficult part of the tour for me as a tour guide, is to say goodbye to everyone. Great guys, lovely Dot (our queen of the tour) and Simon.

Cheerio to all my mates,
Lynn

Machu Picchu Adventure 2013

Sat, 08 Jun 2013 07:16:21 -0800

Day 1: Bienvenido a Chile! A few people are already here, the others will be checking in today at the Hotel El Paso Park. Welcome dinner tonight at the hotel "Araksaya" restaurant.

Day 2: Welcome to the Atacama desert! We got our bikes today and tested them out on a road into the mountains behind Arica. Great ride! Between the ascent and descent we logged over 25,000 feet of elevation change. However, with the 50 degree temps and drizzling rain we experienced most of the day we're all wondering if this really is the driest place on earth. The fire place at lunch sure felt good!

Day 3: We crossed into Peru today on our way to Moquegua! And we loved our border crossing experience. :-) We saw some amazing desert country today! Bienvenidos a Peru!!

Day 4: We head for the Mejes River Valley! On the way we learned what "Neblina" means, as the temps and visibility dropped for part of our day. The skies opened back up to welcome us to the entrance of a 'magestic' valley rich in Camarones (shrimp), many people sampled these delicacies for lunch. Pisco, cerveza, dinner and a bonfire finish our day. :-)

Day 5: A view of Coropuna (21,079 ft) nearly 100 miles away welcomes us as we climb to the top of the Mejes River valley again! We make our way back to the coast and ride the Pan-American Highway for the rest of the day. Puerta Inka is our home for the night. A hammock (pardon the feet), then fresh seafood, and then waves crashing on the rocky shores nearby finish our day.

Day 6: We started our day with a hike through some Incan ruins nearby and then set out for Nazca. We find some sand dunes trying to take over the road, a sleepy dog, more sand dunes, and a cheese hamburger done right! Yeah, that's an egg! Most of the group is out flying for a view of the famous Nazca Lines as I write, blue skies should've made for spectacular viewing today.

Day 7: We change ecosystems today. We leave the arid desert of Nazca and head for the high alpine fauna of Chalhuanca to the East. We watch the largest sand dune on earth (7,000ft) shrink below our feet as we climb high into the Andian Coastal Range. We log over 25,000ft of elevation change before lunch! Afterwards we add another 15,000ft to that. In route to our high point for the day of 14,802ft (Hushuacasa Pass) we find a pristine lake just over 14k. We know we're at the pass when we encounter hale accumulating on the roads. :-)
We ride on into lush green pastures of grazing Alpaca. We come to the end of this high Andean plateau and see the road plummet nearly 3,000ft to the Chalhuanca river below! We're greeted at this abyss by an Andean Condor doing a close fly-by to check us out. Though awe-struck, we are all moving so he soars on across the sky. We drop into the Chalhuanca canyon and follow the river to our home for the night at Tampumayo. Wow! Quite a day!

Day 8: We ride to the Sacred Valley today! We have to say good-bye to a few furry friends we made at Tampumayo. We follow the Chalhuanca canyon down river until the road turnes into valley walls and begins climbing again. We climb up and down from one valley to another with fields and pastures everywhere. In the afternoon we rise to a high point between valleys and get our first view of the Cordillera Blanca mountain range (20,551ft Nevado Salcantay and 18,635ft Mt Veronica prominent peaks of interest). We ride on to another high point looking down on the lush Sacred Valley, through which the mighty Urubamba River flows. We drop into heart of it and follow the river down valley to our home for the night in Ollantaytambo.

Day 9: No motorcycles today. We wake up early to catch a train further down the Sacred Valley to Machu Picchu! Sunny blue skies and hot weather will make this day that much more memorable. I'm not even going to try to describe Machu Picchu, ask your friends who just spent the day there. :-)

Day 10: Day ride from 9,160ft Ollantaytambo. We cross over to the other side of the Cordillera Urubamba, via Malaga Pass (14,156ft). We descend into the Amazon River basin for a sample of its rain forest climate at 7,700ft. Perfect blue skies to the West of the pass and we're fortunate to find only scattered clouds in the rain forest to the East. Epic twisty road, perfect pavement, and virtually no traffic! We're back in Ollantaytambo for a free afternoon.

Day 11: We depart our 3 day home in Ollantaytambo and head to Cusco. We follow the Urubamba River valley up to Pisac, where the road changes direction and begins climbing up the valley wall. However, we find the bridge we need to cross the Urubamba to access this climb is CLOSED for repairs. We begin a new adventure moving back down the valley looking for another way across the river. We find a small bridge that leads us to a wonderful dirt road (with some challenges of its own) that allows us access back to our original route. We continue on and venture to the edge of Cusco for a view from above, at Cristo Blanco. We make our way down into the maze of streets that makes up the Plaza de Armas area of the city. We check in to our hotel, park the bikes and stop in to the famous Norton's Pub for lunch. Enjoying the sights in Cusco fills the afternoon.

Day 12: Free Day. Enjoying the sights in Cusco today, individually and as a group in the afternoon on a tour of local ruins and cathedrals.

Day 13: We leave Cusco and head for Puno. We drop down to Urcos where we meet the Vilcanota River and follow it up river to it's headwaters near La Raya Pass at 14,228ft. Corn fields in the Vilcanota River valley change to Hay fields and pastures of grazing Alpaca and Sheep on the South side of the pass, which lye mostly around 13,000ft. We pull into Puno and look over the city on the shore of the southern hemisphere's largest freshwater lake (with over 3,232 sq miles of surface area), Lake Titicaca at 12,507ft. A comfy hotel and a warm fire await.

Day 14: We set out early for a different kind of ride today... We take a boat out into Lake Titicaca to visit a village on floating islands known as "Uros". Made entirely of reeds, there are 78 floating islands that make up this village. Families build and inhabit their own little island among the village. We visit one family and get a glimpse of their way of life. Pretty amazing people, so nice of them to sing "Happy Birthday" to our own Eric Probst! Not sure how they knew....
We hop on our bikes after that and head to higher ground. Most of the rest of our day is spent above 14,000 ft. We stop to explore a hot spring/geyser along the road and have a picnic lunch while we are there. Then we make our way over the 15,000 ft mark! The high plains change to desert as we ride. The high plain comes to an end and we stop for a view down the dry western slope of the coastal range we sit on top of. Our 10,000 ft descent to Moquegua was epic (spread out over 40 miles)! Back in the desert and into thicker air again. Hope you had a great Birthday Eric! ;-)

Day 15: We set out from Moquegua and head for the border to say "Good-bye" to Peru. :-(
The desert sands remind us that we're back in the Atacama desert and the thick air at lower elevation feels refreshing to everybody. We pull into Arica and ride to a high point for one last beautiful view from above. We return the bikes. Then it's off to lunch at a local favorite called "Shoppedog" for the best hot dogs in the southern hemisphere and a large beer to share, known as the "Rocket"! Farewell dinner at 8:00pm tonight.

Day 16: Departure Day
Breakfast and taxis to the airport throughout the day (and lunch for some). Farewell to a great group of riders. I hope you all have some wonderful memories of your time spent in Peru.
-Ben