MotoQuest Blog and News Feed

Isle of Man and Wales adventure 2013

Thu, 13 Jun 2013 00:42:28 -0800

In the beginning, there were interesting issues. First was at London Heathrow, where an Airbus ingested a bird on take-off and made a crash landing, followed by the complete closure of the airport. This delayed arrival of several of our group. Then extremely heavy rains all over the UK. But, as the sun always shines on my MotoQuest tours, the clouds go away, the sun comes out and we jump on our motorcycles in Bournemouth and head for Stonehenge on the Salisbury Plains. The bright yellow fields of the rape seed and the silky smooth rural country roads make for a photo ride. The comforts of the Castle & Ball Hotel in Marlbourgh, a 1600's era hotel, located on High Street has the most comfortable beds to let jet lag catch up on.

Next day we arrive in Liverpool, where to our surprise, a large contingency of naval ships are docked at the Albert Pier. Very interesting to see Russian sailors exchanging photos with Canadian and British sailors.

Next morning we jump on the Isle of Man ferry and sail out the Mersey River (remember the song by Jerry & the Pace Makers). As the rains again stop, we arrive at the port of Douglas. Sunshine greets us again as we debark on the Isle made famous by the TT races, the oldest motorcycle road races in the world (1st race in 1907). It's time for he race to begin.

Lynn, the tour guide and Simon, our always-happy van driver are all smiles. The group of riders is fantastic. They come from far and wide; Boston area, Colorado, Arizona, British Columbia and Idaho. The love of motorcycle riding and the thrill of riding on the Isle is pure pleasure for everyone.

Our accommodation at the Sulby Glen Hotel is located directly on the racecourse. This also happens to be on one of the fastest sections. In fact, Guy Martin was clocked going 204 MPH (not Kms) this afternoon. Sidecar units, no taller than my kneecap scream by at 140 MPH (running only 600cc engines). There have been a few hiccups in running the race this year. Occasional rain causes temporary stoppage and last evening a house fire at Kirk Michael (again on the race course) forced the races to stop. The fireman did a splendid job of dousing the fire and the races continued. The races are all important to everyone on the Isle, be it locals or race fans.

The paddocks (or pits) is a magical place. It is open to the public, where one can get up and close to the race bikes and their riders. It's quite common to rub elbows with John McGuiness, the current and 14 times TT Winner. Or meet a privateer new comer who may be tomorrow´s winner.

When the races are not being run, there are many miles of sweet narrow Isle roads to explore. The coastal roads to places like Peel with it´s old castle ruins and inviting sandy beach. Or have tea and crumpets at Bride, on your way to the northern lighthouse. Then there is the Calf of Man on the SW coast or Castletown and it´s well preserved castle. So many places of beauty on the Isle.

But the icing on the cake is the 37.73 mile racecourse, which is a public road around the Isle. As you ride your bike around the route, so many familiar names are recognized; Bray Hill at the start, Braddan Bridge where delicious homemade treats are available, Ballacraine the fast section with a blind over the hill that all the riders call Balla-Scary, the Ballaugh Bridge, where all riders go airborne as they negotiate a quick hard left then over he bridge then a hard right while sailing through the air. After Ramsey, riders maneuver the switchbacks as they head towards the famous mountain section. Running wide open, this section separates the men from the boys. Then it's down the mountain and past the Creg-ny-baa Pub, where patrons raise their glasses of ale to the racers. Then it's the finish line, where the riders twist their throttles for the 2nd lap. For the fast riders, they have just covered the 37.73 miles in 17 minutes at an average speed of 130 MPH (remember this is an overall average speed).

When the races begin, the course is closed to the public, so all of bench racers find our favorite place to watch the race with a camera in one hand and our favorite beverage in the other. That is the good life at the TT race on the Isle of Man.

As our time comes to an end on the Isle, we are venturing into beautiful and lush green countryside of Wales. Before boarding the ferry, we were treated with some very exciting races first hand in Ramsey. The racers come screaming down the straight into the town square, where they make a sharp right hand turn, then loft their front wheels as they accelerate up the switch backs heading towards the Water Works and the mountain section. What an exciting way to end our time at the TT Races and say bye to the Isle.

Back on the ferry from Douglas to Liverpool, it's relaxation and nap time.
When we disembark, the sun is bright and the M roads (freeways) are almost devoid of traffic. Shortly, we cross over into Wales and the roads are a motorcycle riders dream. Perfect asphalt surface, scenic beyond belief, enticing curves and no police in sight. We cover the 90 miles to our hotel in hyper time. Our hotel for the next 2 nights is located in the heart of the Snowdonia Region (highest mountains in the UK). It is impossible to either spell or pronounce the Welsh names of the villages we visit.

Our journey continues to Crickhowell and the Bear Hotel. The food is delicious and the beds comfort our weary soles.
Over the Black Mountain on narrow roads (really narrow ....6 ft wide) and to the picture perfect village of Usk. Mid day tea and toast at the Nags Head Inn is a must. Finally we cross the Severn Bridge and turn for the home stretch. A few miss turns in Bath, a great lunch in a roadside-inn and we arrive safely back in Bournemouth where the journey began almost 2 weeks earlier.

Our farewell dinner at the Belle Italia is a time for recalling our adventures, experiences and sharing many memories.

Our tour group began as strangers and ends as one big family. The most difficult part of the tour for me as a tour guide, is to say goodbye to everyone. Great guys, lovely Dot (our queen of the tour) and Simon.

Cheerio to all my mates,
Lynn

New Video The American Southwest with MotoQuest

Mon, 10 Jun 2013 08:52:45 -0800

We have a new information video about our American Southwest Adventure. Narrated by MotoQuest Guide Kevin Hagerty, this 3 minute video highlights all the goodies that await you when you ride for a week with us out of Las Vegas, Nevada.

The Moki Dugway

Mexican Hat

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We have just completed two tours, one in Peru and one to Alaska. Click on the destination and ask to JOIN the group, to see what we have been up to!

Machu Picchu Adventure 2013

Sat, 08 Jun 2013 07:16:21 -0800

Day 1: Bienvenido a Chile! A few people are already here, the others will be checking in today at the Hotel El Paso Park. Welcome dinner tonight at the hotel "Araksaya" restaurant.

Day 2: Welcome to the Atacama desert! We got our bikes today and tested them out on a road into the mountains behind Arica. Great ride! Between the ascent and descent we logged over 25,000 feet of elevation change. However, with the 50 degree temps and drizzling rain we experienced most of the day we're all wondering if this really is the driest place on earth. The fire place at lunch sure felt good!

Day 3: We crossed into Peru today on our way to Moquegua! And we loved our border crossing experience. :-) We saw some amazing desert country today! Bienvenidos a Peru!!

Day 4: We head for the Mejes River Valley! On the way we learned what "Neblina" means, as the temps and visibility dropped for part of our day. The skies opened back up to welcome us to the entrance of a 'magestic' valley rich in Camarones (shrimp), many people sampled these delicacies for lunch. Pisco, cerveza, dinner and a bonfire finish our day. :-)

Day 5: A view of Coropuna (21,079 ft) nearly 100 miles away welcomes us as we climb to the top of the Mejes River valley again! We make our way back to the coast and ride the Pan-American Highway for the rest of the day. Puerta Inka is our home for the night. A hammock (pardon the feet), then fresh seafood, and then waves crashing on the rocky shores nearby finish our day.

Day 6: We started our day with a hike through some Incan ruins nearby and then set out for Nazca. We find some sand dunes trying to take over the road, a sleepy dog, more sand dunes, and a cheese hamburger done right! Yeah, that's an egg! Most of the group is out flying for a view of the famous Nazca Lines as I write, blue skies should've made for spectacular viewing today.

Day 7: We change ecosystems today. We leave the arid desert of Nazca and head for the high alpine fauna of Chalhuanca to the East. We watch the largest sand dune on earth (7,000ft) shrink below our feet as we climb high into the Andian Coastal Range. We log over 25,000ft of elevation change before lunch! Afterwards we add another 15,000ft to that. In route to our high point for the day of 14,802ft (Hushuacasa Pass) we find a pristine lake just over 14k. We know we're at the pass when we encounter hale accumulating on the roads. :-)
We ride on into lush green pastures of grazing Alpaca. We come to the end of this high Andean plateau and see the road plummet nearly 3,000ft to the Chalhuanca river below! We're greeted at this abyss by an Andean Condor doing a close fly-by to check us out. Though awe-struck, we are all moving so he soars on across the sky. We drop into the Chalhuanca canyon and follow the river to our home for the night at Tampumayo. Wow! Quite a day!

Day 8: We ride to the Sacred Valley today! We have to say good-bye to a few furry friends we made at Tampumayo. We follow the Chalhuanca canyon down river until the road turnes into valley walls and begins climbing again. We climb up and down from one valley to another with fields and pastures everywhere. In the afternoon we rise to a high point between valleys and get our first view of the Cordillera Blanca mountain range (20,551ft Nevado Salcantay and 18,635ft Mt Veronica prominent peaks of interest). We ride on to another high point looking down on the lush Sacred Valley, through which the mighty Urubamba River flows. We drop into heart of it and follow the river down valley to our home for the night in Ollantaytambo.

Day 9: No motorcycles today. We wake up early to catch a train further down the Sacred Valley to Machu Picchu! Sunny blue skies and hot weather will make this day that much more memorable. I'm not even going to try to describe Machu Picchu, ask your friends who just spent the day there. :-)

Day 10: Day ride from 9,160ft Ollantaytambo. We cross over to the other side of the Cordillera Urubamba, via Malaga Pass (14,156ft). We descend into the Amazon River basin for a sample of its rain forest climate at 7,700ft. Perfect blue skies to the West of the pass and we're fortunate to find only scattered clouds in the rain forest to the East. Epic twisty road, perfect pavement, and virtually no traffic! We're back in Ollantaytambo for a free afternoon.

Day 11: We depart our 3 day home in Ollantaytambo and head to Cusco. We follow the Urubamba River valley up to Pisac, where the road changes direction and begins climbing up the valley wall. However, we find the bridge we need to cross the Urubamba to access this climb is CLOSED for repairs. We begin a new adventure moving back down the valley looking for another way across the river. We find a small bridge that leads us to a wonderful dirt road (with some challenges of its own) that allows us access back to our original route. We continue on and venture to the edge of Cusco for a view from above, at Cristo Blanco. We make our way down into the maze of streets that makes up the Plaza de Armas area of the city. We check in to our hotel, park the bikes and stop in to the famous Norton's Pub for lunch. Enjoying the sights in Cusco fills the afternoon.

Day 12: Free Day. Enjoying the sights in Cusco today, individually and as a group in the afternoon on a tour of local ruins and cathedrals.

Day 13: We leave Cusco and head for Puno. We drop down to Urcos where we meet the Vilcanota River and follow it up river to it's headwaters near La Raya Pass at 14,228ft. Corn fields in the Vilcanota River valley change to Hay fields and pastures of grazing Alpaca and Sheep on the South side of the pass, which lye mostly around 13,000ft. We pull into Puno and look over the city on the shore of the southern hemisphere's largest freshwater lake (with over 3,232 sq miles of surface area), Lake Titicaca at 12,507ft. A comfy hotel and a warm fire await.

Day 14: We set out early for a different kind of ride today... We take a boat out into Lake Titicaca to visit a village on floating islands known as "Uros". Made entirely of reeds, there are 78 floating islands that make up this village. Families build and inhabit their own little island among the village. We visit one family and get a glimpse of their way of life. Pretty amazing people, so nice of them to sing "Happy Birthday" to our own Eric Probst! Not sure how they knew....
We hop on our bikes after that and head to higher ground. Most of the rest of our day is spent above 14,000 ft. We stop to explore a hot spring/geyser along the road and have a picnic lunch while we are there. Then we make our way over the 15,000 ft mark! The high plains change to desert as we ride. The high plain comes to an end and we stop for a view down the dry western slope of the coastal range we sit on top of. Our 10,000 ft descent to Moquegua was epic (spread out over 40 miles)! Back in the desert and into thicker air again. Hope you had a great Birthday Eric! ;-)

Day 15: We set out from Moquegua and head for the border to say "Good-bye" to Peru. :-(
The desert sands remind us that we're back in the Atacama desert and the thick air at lower elevation feels refreshing to everybody. We pull into Arica and ride to a high point for one last beautiful view from above. We return the bikes. Then it's off to lunch at a local favorite called "Shoppedog" for the best hot dogs in the southern hemisphere and a large beer to share, known as the "Rocket"! Farewell dinner at 8:00pm tonight.

Day 16: Departure Day
Breakfast and taxis to the airport throughout the day (and lunch for some). Farewell to a great group of riders. I hope you all have some wonderful memories of your time spent in Peru.
-Ben

MotoQuest Last Chance Iceland Fire and Ice

Mon, 27 May 2013 11:08:59 -0800

The Iceland: Fire and Ice tour is a go! Registration is wrapping up but we still have room for a couple more riders. Come circle Iceland with us and explore the land of ice and fire. Ride roads built by vikings through lava fields in one of the most volcanically active regions in the world and then bare witness to the largest glacier in Europe. Experience Iceland's adventure riding followed by adventurous food on an isolated island in the Atlantic and maybe even learn to pronounce Eyjafjallajökull! This ride will take you in and out of the most pristine fjords in a magical landscape so similar to the surface of the moon that the astronauts visit for lunar training.

Giveaway with Motorcycle Superstore

MotoQuest, in conjunction with Motorcycle Superstore, is giving away an all inclusive spot on one of our Alaska trips for 2014. Sweepstakes ends June 30th.

You could be a winner!

Registration Closing: Turkey

Explore the cradle of Civilization with MotoQuest. This trip combines twisty scenic pavement with amazing history and culture.

This is a trip of a lifetime!

Explore Turkey with MotoQuest

Turkey the Ultimate Couples Destination

Sat, 11 May 2013 11:30:41 -0800

Turkey will romance you. It will educate you. It will relax you. Our Turkey Explore Adventure is perfect for those couples who like to discover the world together on two wheels.

Win: The Ultimate Alaska Adventure with Motorcycle Superstore and MotoQuest

Sign up for a chance to WIN up to $15,000 of prizes with Motorcycle Superstore's Ultimate Alaska Adventure Sweepstakes.

What does a lucky couple WIN?

Winners can choose between two 9-day touring trips: The Best of Alaska
(all paved) or The Northern Lights Adventure
(dual sport). Everything will be paid for: airfare, rental bikes, lodging and more! Olympia is throwing in two sets of riding gear: the X Moto All Season Jacket and the X Moto All Season Pants. Winners will also receive Schuberth’s top-of-the-line C3 Modular Helmet.

Sign up NOW

BLOG: What is a Scouting Trip?

You have to read this!! Written by Bob Williams during our Mexico Scouting Trip. Ever think about joining a MotoQuest scout trip? It's not for everyone, but some riders just don't get enough of it...

READ "What is a Scouting Trip?"

"Adventurous Motorcyclists' Guide to Alaska" Wins Award!!

We all are stunned that Phil knew how to write, and now this....

The "Adventurous Motorcyclists' Guide to Alaska" has just won a silver medal!
The coveted Benjamin Franklin Award of The Independent Book Publishers' Association has been given to Lee Klancher and Phil Freeman's new book in the category of Travel.

It is up for a GOLD MEDAL, to be announced May 29th in New York City. We will keep you in the loop....

What is a Scouting Trip?

Sat, 11 May 2013 10:30:10 -0800

What is a Scouting Trip?

Gang gets ready to depart out of MotoQuest's Adventure Shop in Long Beach, California.

I am glad you asked! During the Mexico scout trip in December 2012 five of our group (John (one of the ride leaders), Brian, Greg, Brandon and me) decided to take the path less travelled from Durango to Parral which entailed a 50+ mile leg on dirt roads through the mountains, while the main group stayed on the pavement. We should have known this was not going to be a good day when John, the best rider in the bunch for sure, busted his ass as soon as we got into dirt, but Noooo, we keep right on going, and it kept getting rougher and steeper. I am pretty sure that if I had not crashed we would have turned around pretty soon, anyway. I was riding a Motoquest 1200GS up the gravel road, 15 miles off the pavement (high into the drug lords' domain) when the front tire washed out and the rear end went to the left. When I applied power to correct the slide the bike hooked up and went straight into the rock wall (see the pic), head on, at about 25 mph, and it stopped very quickly. It was not a glancing blow! It broke the triple clamp, punctured the oil cooler, bent the forks and the front wheel, and destroyed the instrument cluster and the windshield (see the other pic). We quickly realized that this was not going to go be easily fixed. As Brandon said when we tried to pick up the bike, "Oh S---, we are F-----"! We sent Brian, who spoke some Spanish, back to the pavement to try to find some help (Thanks, Brian). We were not sure when Brian would be back with help, if at all, and we were not going to spend the night on the side of that mountain. We unloaded my gear, tied it onto Brandon's GSA, and pushed my wrecked bike off to the side of the road. If it had belonged to me I would have set it on fire and left it as a souvenir for sure, but I figured Phil might want it back. I climbed on the back of Greg's F800GS and we started down the mountain. As we rode down the rocky mountain road Greg casually mentioned that he never really rode two up very often, especially in the dirt, and it was a lot harder than he expected. Great, now I was going to be in two bike wrecks in one day! Oh yeah, I forgot to tell you that while were doing all this John had a flat front tire on his F800 and he had to fix that, too.

Bob hits a wall...

Actually Greg did a great job riding double down the mountain, and we had cleared most of the rough stuff when we met Brian coming back up. He had found four Mexican guys (Manny and three friends as we would later learn) in a pickup who were willing to drive up the mountain, load the bike, and drive us back to the pavement, with no idea of what we would do next. Greg and Brandon then took off, in the dark by then, and caught up with the main group about 10pm that night in Parral. I jumped in the back of the truck, still wearing my helmet, and we started back up the mountain to get the GS. It was rough going in the two-wheel drive truck. Manny tried to call it quits several times but reluctantly agreed to continue as I reminded him that I was not going to pay him unless we got the GS off the mountain. We loaded the 1200GS in the truck, not an easy task on the side of a mountain, with no ramp, in the dark, with the forks broken. We slowly picked our way down the mountain and drove back to the highway. It did make it easier knowing we probably couldn't do much more damage to the bike than I had already done. As it turned out, Manny worked in the local mines during the week, and drove back to Parral, where his family lived, on the his days off, so we negotiated with Manny to spend the night on the floor at his house and to drive the bike, and me, six hours to Parral the next morning, with no idea of what we would do next.
That night Manny told us he had to go to a party and did not want the bike in the truck so we unloaded it in his yard. He asked us to go to the party and John and I declined, having had enough adventure for one day. Brian said he would go but all he had to wear was his riding gear. Manny said no problem and off they went leaving John and I to drink beer with Manny's friend, Sam, a self-proclaimed alcoholic, who had recently been deported from the US, and a really scary dude. We went to sleep on the floor in our riding gear, only taking off our helmet and gloves. I tried not to touch any more parts of the small room than I had to. Brian showed up in the middle of the night and told us Manny had taken him to a wedding followed by a big party and a dance. I would bet that Brian was the only guy at the wedding wearing Klim off road riding gear and motocross boots. When Brian came back, three more of Manny's friends came with him, and they all climbed into bed with Sam while the three of us slept on the floor beside the bed. I did not really notice that Manny was not with them at the time as the fact got lost somewhere in the middle of all of them trying to get into bed with Sam. Did I forget to mention that Manny's house was actually a one-room shack, 15X15 bare concrete floor, with no plumbing or running water, just a table, a microwave, a few chairs, a bed, a 5 gallon jug of water, one light bulb, and three cases of beer that they bought with the money I gave them to haul the GS off the mountain. The bathroom was somewhere out back, actually anywhere out back seemed to work just fine.

The next morning at 0630 we found the truck parked in the driveway with Manny passed out in the front seat, obviously drunk, REALLY drunk, OK, comatose. One of Manny's friends, Pedro (I am not kidding), decided to go with us, I think to protect Manny from me, or because he was not sure I could actually drive a pickup truck. We loaded the GS into the truck, I pushed Manny over onto the passenger side, Pedro jumped in the middle, rolled the window down, turned the radio wide open to his favorite Mariachi station, and we started driving to Parral, Brian and John bringing up the rear, with no idea of what we would do next.

"Blackie" on the way back to the Estados Unidos

When I cranked up the truck I had noticed all the warning lights lit up, part of the system check I assumed. Then I noticed that none of them went out. Oil light, check engine, tire pressure, ABS, seat belt, air bag, alternator, doors ajar, everything lit up like a Christmas tree. I looked over at Pedro and he said, "No Problem", which I found out later was pretty much the extent of his English, so we started driving. The lights stayed on all the way to Parral and the truck ran just fine? No problem.

Much of the road to Parral was a twisty mountain road, no shoulder, sheer dropoffs, sections of it pitted with deep potholes. I realized that Brandon and Greg had ridden that road in the dark, in 35 mph winds, the night before. There is a whole 'nother story about that ride I am told.

When we got to Parral we found Phil waiting for us at the hotel as the group had left that morning to continue their ride toward Copper Canyon. We negotiated a deal with Manny's cousin (I don't remember his name but I sure bet Phil does since he spent the next two days in the truck with him) while having lunch with Manny's family and other relatives, to load the wrecked bike into his truck, since Manny did not have license plates on his, and drive the bike and Phil to somewhere north of Nuevo Casa Grande (a two day drive) where they would meet up with a Motoquest van bringing another bike into Mexico from Long Beach. Then we had to unload the broken GS from Manny's truck and load it into his cousin's truck. The presence of three BMW's at Manny's family's house, plus a wrecked one in the back of the truck, brought everybody in that part of town out to watch the spectacle. I then took Phil's bike, which turned out to be the same 1200GS (good ole number 2) I had ridden to Prudhoe in June, and Phil left for the trip north in the pickup. We waved goodbye to Phil as he disappeared in a pickup driven by a Mexican stranger with a wrecked BMW in the back (I bet there's a whole 'nother story there too) and we went back to the hotel with plans to get up early and try to catch the group the next day, somehow.

That night, as walked around Parral, we heard someone yelling at us from a Honda Accord in the street, it was Manny and his friend. They had been looking for us and wanted to take us out on the town, so they could spend the rest of the money I had given them to get the GS off the mountain. So the three of us climbed in the back seat of the Honda and we drove straight to the drive through beer store, windows down, sun roof open, Mariachi music wide open (it's a Mexican thing, I think). After buying lots of beer we proceeded to drive around town, drinking beer, listening to Mariachi music, and yelling out the window at any women we saw. Manny stopped at one of his hangouts. Kind of an old time American drive inn restaurant where everybody parks around a circle drive, stands behind the car, tells lies, drinks beer, yells at women, and stacks all the empty cans on top of their car. My kind of place for sure. We met a lot of recent US deportees, and heard some of their stories that may have changed my mind about US immigration policy completely. There are some really good, hard working people being unfairly separated from their families and deported from this country, and we never hear about them!

Then we went to the pool hall and drank some more beer, shot some pool, and yelled at women we saw. By the time we got back to hotel it was already too late to get up early. It was obvious that it was going be a long day making up two days on the group, and it was.

We got up the next morning and rode into the Copper Canyon area although we were in such a push to catch the group that we only rode about half way into the Canyon. We did catch the group at the hotel about 9 pm that night. After spending the next night in Nuevo Casa Grande, we met up with Phil, waiting for us on the side of the road to the North. He had met the Motoquest van somewhere and swapped the wrecked bike for the GS brought down from the US, although I understand there were problems with the paper work on the replacement bike that required the van to go all the way back to the border to get resolved, but that is also a whole 'nother story I am told.

I don't know how much Motoquest pays their tour guides but I assure you that John earned his money, and my respect and appreciation, on this trip. He played guide, mechanic, EMT, translator, motivational speaker, security guard, morals counselor, Mexican beer consultant, International negotiations specialists, priest, and over all authority figure, and he kept an all around cool head the whole time (except when he lost the keys to his bike and I thought we were going to have to sedate him, but that's a whole 'nother story).

Believe it or not, I have actually left a lot of the details of the rest of this trip untold, partially out of the need for brevity, and partially from a sense of discretion, but there is a lot more to this story that involves tequila, karaoke, Mariachi bands, pickup trucks, me getting lost, Phil finding me, a lost cell phone, a lost passport, more beer, Manny's wife, more tequila, the police, automatic weapons, Facebook friends, fire wood, a small mutiny caused by riding in the sand, an expresso machine, another beer store, an anniversary party, a blown rear shock, snow in the pass, ice in the other pass, the Honey Badger, a drug lords wife, and the real definition of a Mexican certificate of vehicle insurance, but that is a whole 'nother story.

Bottom line, it cost me over $3000 just to get the bike off the mountain and back to Long Beach, but at least some of that money was spent on beer that I helped drink. For those who are BMW riders you certainly have a good idea of the cost to fix the damage I described on the bike.

So the next time someone asks, "What is the difference between a tour and scouting trip"? This was a scouting trip! It was worth every cent!

Group enjoys the last couple of days through Arizona.

Phil at BMW Motorcycles of Ventura County Tonight

Mon, 06 May 2013 09:34:56 -0800

Want to talk about riding Alaska with one of the foremost authorities of Alaska in the Motorcycle Industry?

Come meet Phil and talk bike, routes and everything else about Alaska!

WHEN: May 8th, 6:30PM
WHERE: BMW Motorcycles of Ventura County

He will also be selling and signing the book he co-authored with Photo Journalist Lee Klancher, "The Adventurous Motorcyclist's Guide to Alaska"

MotoQuest at Overland Expo

Alex and Phil will be at the Overland Expo!
4X4 and Motorcycle Travel Galore!
Come by the MotoQuest tent and say hello.

When: May 17 - 19, 2013.

Where: Flagstaff, Arizona, 2 hours north of Phoenix off I-17, at Mormon Lake Lodge

Info: Information on Overland Expo

Twisted Throttle Open House!

Our partners at Twisted Throttle are throwing an Open House. If you happen to be in the Rhode Island area, consider joining them for this fun event.

When: Saturday May 18th, 10am - 5pm

Where: Twisted Throttle is easily accessible off of I-95 at 570 Nooseneck Hill Rd., Exeter, RI.

Info: Information on Twisted Throttle's Open House

Anchorage Adventure Center Open!

On May 1st, our Anchorage, Alaska location opened shop and is now ready for riders!

Come up to explore Alaska!

New Rental Shop Location Portland Oregon

Sat, 27 Apr 2013 10:52:23 -0800

We are opening a full-time motorcycle rental shop in Portland, Oregon starting May 1st. Our Rental Shop will be located at BMW Motorcycles of Western Oregon in Tigard, Oregon. If you want to experience the beauty of the Northwest,

Tour Face Lift: Alaska Backcountry Explorer

Our Off-Road Camp Adventure is now going by the name of the Alaska Backcountry Explorer.

What's New?

We have changed the itinerary to start in the Copper Center Area and move to the Denali Highway Area. So, great light adventure options followed by epic advanced off-road options. This means you will be honing your dirt skills throughout the week and will be ready for a world-class off-the-beaten-track experience when you get to the Denali Highway.

This is one of our favorite rides, and takes you to places people seldom go. You will experience the real Alaska. There is no doubt, this tour WILL MAKE YOU A BETTER RIDER.

This adventure is designed for those who love to do Backcountry Exploration, and for those who want to be better riders. Take your riding to the next level! Join us!

Long Beach to BMW MOA International Rally Ride

The Coast is Calling is for those who would like to make a one-way organized ride up the Pacific Coast to the BMW MOA International Rally in Salem, Oregon.

Dates: Sunday July 14th - Wednesday July 17th, 2013

Price: Starting at $595

Highlights: Pacific Coast Highway, baby!

Register for this trip, and get ready for a great time.

Moto GP in Japan!

We are trying to see if we can get a group to ride to the Moto GP in Motegi, Japan on October 26th and 27th.

This ride would be about 12 days long.

Highlights:

Japanese Alps
Honda Museum
Moto GP (VIP Passes included)
Mt. Fuji
Great food, scenery and camaraderie.

Interested?

Fill out this form, we will get back with you.

New Tour The American Southwest Adventure

Sat, 20 Apr 2013 07:51:16 -0800

We have new adventure for you to consider. If you have never ridden the southwest of the USA, then you should put this ride on your short list. Our American Southwest Adventure packs 8 days of unbelievable scenery into an unbeatable itinerary.

New Location* Portland, Oregon

Starting May 1st, we will have a new rental shop in the Portland, Oregon area. We are pleased to announce that in conjunction with our partners at BMW of Western Oregon, our Rental Shop will be located at their Tigard Dealership Location.

Any time you need a BMW GS Rental, and you are in the Pacific Northwest, GIVE US A CALL, and we will be happy to get you and your friends on the road.

Isle of Man: Last Minute Opening!

We are looking for a lucky rider to join our Isle of Man and Wales Adventure.

Bike Waiting: Suzuki SV 650
Accommodations on the Isle of Man: All set up
Ferry Tickets to Isle of Man: Reserved and waiting

Join This Tour and see something truly amazing.

https://www.motoquest.com/guided-motorcycle-tour.php?great-britain-isle-of-man-scotland-wales-uk-18

Long Beach Open House! May 4th

Come have lunch on us on Saturday, May 4th starting Noon. We will be providing refreshments, games and prizes to those who attend. We would love to see you there!

Come meet the MotoQuest crew in Long Beach:
Kevin Hagerty
Brenden Anders
Phil Freeman
Barbara David
Alex Elam
William Weil

We look forward to seeing you!

Check out our Facebook Page for this Event.

Colombia Valleys of the Andes

Fri, 12 Apr 2013 13:59:51 -0800

MotoQuest is excited to release the details on our new adventure tour; Colombia: Valleys of the Andes. Join MotoQuest September 15th to September 28th for a two week once in a lifetime trip through visually stunning Colombia. Our 13 day itinerary focuses on inland Colombia, specifically the various peaks and valleys of the Northern Andes. The unique geography is comprised of three cordilleras (an extensive chain of mountains) creating dramatic riding chalked full of scenic mountain passes and fertile river valleys.

Colombia: Off the Bike

Expect unparalleled hospitality at safe and clean 4 and 5 star hotels start to finish. Our itinerary keeps a great balance between riding and experiencing Colombia. Free days in Montenegro, Medellin and Villa De Leyva allow riders the option to explore these culture rich areas even deeper via their motorcycle or other means.

Optional free day activities include: hiking, shopping, walking and historical tours, horse back riding, ATV and jeep tours etc etc.

What are you waiting for?

USA: Seattle Transporters

It is that time of the year and we need our fleet moving North towards Alaska. We have some great one way transporter specials at unbelievable prices. R1200GS Long Beach, CA to Seattle, WA for $50 a day!
View our Transporter Specials

MotoQuest Long Beach Open House

Long Beach, CA: Join MotoQuest for our open house Saturday May 4th, 2013. Fun starts at noon, lunch and drinks are on MotoQuest. Come stop by and see us!

MotoQuest
2115 E Spring Street
Long Beach, CA 90806
562-997-7368

Next door to Long Beach BMW Motorcycles

RSVP on Facebook so we know you are coming!

Wonders of the West with Velocity Cycles

Fri, 05 Apr 2013 09:37:13 -0800

Join MotoQuest and Velocity Cycles for an unforgettable riding adventure through the Southwestern United States. Saddle up for a week long journey with an experienced motorcycle guide and staff to accomodate your travel needs along the way. We take pride in operating guided and supported tours all over the world, so we ensure an amazing time for all!

What's Included

This tour starts out at $3600

Included:

-BMW F650GS (5 days)
-All Accommodations (6 nights)
-Airport Transfers
-Premier Welcome and Farewell Dinners excluding alcohol
-National Park Entrance Fees
-Professional and Experienced MotoQuest Guide on Motorcycle
-Support Vehicle Driver
-Support Vehicle (carrying spare parts, tools, luggage and extra motorcycle)
-Staff Trained in First Aid with satellite phone for emergencies
-MotoQuest T-Shirt and Hat
-Photos taken on the trip
-Custom Calender from photos taken on the trip

Travel

Arrive at Long Beach Airport (LGB) and depart from the same.
For any other travel options, please contact us at: 1-800-756-1990 for advice.
You may also reach our travel agent Sally at: Sally@alaskatravelsource.com, or (907) 562- 2213
Just tell her you are part of a MotoQuest Tour!

Highlands Create a Stir

Thu, 04 Apr 2013 09:09:25 -0800

It seems everyone is excited about experiencing Iceland! Our Highlands Adventure filled up promptly upon release, but don't fret, other options exist. There are three spots available on the Fire and Ice Adventure departing on July 31, 2013. This is an experience like no other and especially accommodating for couples. Visit one of the most actively volcanic regions in the world while riding the best pavement available. Where there is no pavement, the hard packed dirt is navigated with ease by accomplished riders. Hurry and Register while spots are still available!

<a href="http://www.motoquest.com/scouting/pacific-coast-bmw-motoquest-5" target="_blank">BMW MOA Rally Ride: The Coast is Calling</a>

Join MotoQuest and Long Beach BMW Motorcycles for a curvy and exhilarating ride up the Pacific coastline. Destination; The 41st Annual BMW MOA International Rally in Salem, OR. The ride will include four days riding and three nights lodging, accompanied by an experienced MotoQuest Guide, a support vehicle carrying extra parts/tools and a staff mechanic. Check out the Tour Page for pricing and the complete itinerary. This ride is limited to 25 riders so don't wait, Register Now!

Offroad durch den State Washington

Wed, 27 Mar 2013 15:56:53 -0800

Motorrad, is the largest magazine in Europe focused solely on the sport of motorcycling. It is full of non biased motorcycle reviews and articles regarding travel tips and help around the garage. Click below to check out a great write-up on adventure riding in the state of Washington. Who knows? they may even mention MotoQuest... This will hit newstands on April 6th!

Offroad durch den State Washington

Gold Rush Adventure to Dawson City

Tue, 26 Mar 2013 15:40:49 -0800

Every year a gathering like no other takes place just across the Alaska border into Canada. While not a rally, rather a get-together, Dawson City serves as a gathering point for motorcyclists from around the globe to amass with exuberance for the sport of adventure motorcycling. Missing an event like this will quickly result in acute feelings of sadness (see FOMO) For this reason we invite you to join us on our annual Dawson City Gold Rush Adventure!

ONE SPOT LEFT for Isle of Man!

Read this and Register quickly!! One spot is open on our May 24, 2013 Isle of Man and Wales Adventure. The bike available is a tried and true Suzuki GSXR600. A perfect steed to explore the UK and Wales. Embrace the rail-like handling of this twin-cylinder rocket on the actual race course of the TT! Don't miss out on this opportunity of a lifetime, our IOM tour fills up every year so register now from the Tour Page

StarTribune Motorcycling Around Iceland

Mon, 07 Jan 2013 10:49:41 -0900

We were on a 2,500-kilometer ride around Iceland, one of the most fascinating countries in the world. Our group included Ben, John and me from the United States, Armando from Mexico, Ernesto and his wife, Orna, from Ecuador, and Simon Siggs, the tour company's liaison, from England. Our Icelandic guides were Gudmundur and Thorgeir ("Toggi"), each for five days. A partner in the Reykjavik Motor Center, Soffia, provided the dual-purpose Triumph Tiger 800s and drove the support van, with her fun-loving 12-year-old daughter, Rosa, riding shotgun.

It was a damp, blustery late-afternoon on the sixth day of the 10-day trek. The winds in Iceland are legendary, and I was leaning my motorcycle over into a crosswind of about 50 kilometers per hour off my right shoulder. Five riders were ahead of me, and Toggi led the pack. Simon had my back; Soffia and Rosa had his.

I saw the lights of an approaching automobile emerge from the roiling mist and tightened my hands on the grips. The auto was nearly abreast of me when a ferocious gust of wind shoved my motorcycle into its path. There was no time to see my life flashing before me, say a prayer or even wet my pants.

It was over in the blink of an eye, and I will never know how we missed each other. Later, Simon said that he thought I was about to meet my maker. He saw no daylight between the two passing vehicles. Apparently, with intervention from on high, two objects can occupy the same space at the same time.

Undaunted, our group continued around the island's southern and eastern coasts. Thus far, we had experienced fields of geysers, including Iceland's "Old Faithful"; sulfurous, smelly, boiling pots of mud; spectacular waterfalls; nicely paved two-lane roads interspersed with others of dirt, mud and gravel (the fun riding); many superbly constructed tunnels through the mountains, some with a single lane and recesses to escape oncoming vehicles; double rainbows; gorgeous three-quarter-size Icelandic horses, and much evidence of the 2010 volcanic eruption that spewed ash so high that flights to and from Europe were disrupted.

Ahead of us along the northern and western coasts were more amazing waterfalls, fog obscuring our roads, fishing villages, flocks of sheep with the manners to run from the road as we approached, a whale, the most westerly point in Europe, where thousands of birds nest (to include the colorful, wobbly in flight Atlantic puffin), the largest glacier in Europe, massive chunks of glacial ice resting in a lagoon, and Alaska-like mountains rising from the Greenland Sea and creating dozens of picturesque fjords -- all this and much more, to include pristine, sandy beaches. Iceland is a topographic and climatic mélange.

Goodbyes at dinner

We crested our final mountain on Day 10, headed down to sea level and rode an excellent road into the capital of Reykjavik, from where we had started. We said our goodbyes at dinner and promised to stay in touch.

I was stationed in Iceland as an Air Force officer a long time ago, and was so taken with the country and its hardy "Vikings" that I always wanted to return. I had finally made it, thanks to Phil Freeman. An adventurer at heart, Phil worked as a fly-fishing guide, sea kayak guide and ski instructor before falling in love with motorcycle touring while teaching English in Japan. A small-business success story, Phil formed MotoQuest in Fairbanks, Alaska, 14 years ago. His enterprise is the only U.S. one to offer a guided motorcycle tour of Iceland.

It is now five months later, and I recently exchanged e-mails with Ernesto. Riding two up, he and Orna have toured the world. Ernesto commented, "We still talk about our wonderful experience in Iceland. The group was excellent and, in my experience, you need a good group to have a good tour."

How true. We clicked from the beginning and, at the end, we were like family. It could not have been otherwise given what we had shared -- not only the ride and the sights, but also the nights spent in rustic dwellings out in the middle of nowhere and many mouth-watering repasts (cod, halibut, salmon, salt fish, sea trout, Arctic char, lamb) during which we exchanged stories and laughed a lot. Simon is the funniest guy on Earth. He is also an expert photographer and did the official shooting; see his Iceland album at smu.gs/VHeqQq.

My return to Iceland left me "younger," infused with energy and eager for the next adventure. I live by the maxim that if I always have something fun and exciting to look forward to, I will have a long and fulfilling life. Perhaps that was Methuselah's credo, too. It is believed that he lived to age 969.

Iceland was No. 1 on my "bucket list." Next is a two-wheeled journey from the northern tip of Argentina down through Patagonia and across the Magellan Strait to Tierra del Fuego. Phil is leading the 16-day trek to "the end of the Earth" in February, and I am eager to saddle up.

Have you wanted to do something for many years but keep putting it off because "there will always be time"? Life is finite, so resolve to do "your Iceland" before another year passes!

Jerry Goodrich is a Prior Lake resident.

Baja Mexico and the Devil's Spine

Tue, 01 Jan 2013 09:31:31 -0900

Mexico Bound

PHOTOS

MAP

We laughed around the table in a private room at the 555 East American Steak House in Long Beach, California. Surrounded by fine wine, fancy linen and served top shelf steaks and seafood, I announced: "Well, this is as good as it gets. From now on, its this way." And I put up my arm and show a long arc going down. They all laughed and knew it was true.

We were headed to Mexico the next day, and that was the fact.

I talked to everyone on the trip beforehand and was frank. This would be a true adventure. We would have staff along, but no support truck. We would be getting in after dark, and have mistakes along the way. I needed riders who were willing to help each other and themselves. This ride was not for wimps. We would be riding pavement and dirt. How much dirt? Don't know, this is a scout trip.

We left Long Beach with 14 riders. As we took a picture in front of the Long Beach BMW/Husqvarna Motorcycle Dealership, I looked over the crew. The motorcycle or choice was the BMW GS. Most had brought and equipped their own. It was an awesome sight. We were all Americans, mostly from the the valley, and one Canadian and one Irishman. All of them were excited.

Patrick lead us to the border. We decided on a "short" day, and to just get to Tecate via the scenic route, and then cross the border early after noon and rest up as close to there as possible.

The ride out of Long Beach was like California Dreaming. After about 20 minutes of enduring the 405 South, we jumped off at Laguna Beach. There, scenes of waves, beach volley ball, palm trees and pretty joggers abounded. Yep, California! We then cut east onto the Ortega Highway and found ourselves in the midst of a terrific ride: tons of curves, perfectly manicured paved bits with elevation changes, mountain scenery and the buzz of motorcyclists coming the other way . This is what is so special about California: One minute you are in the ocean of a superhighway 14 lanes wide, fending for yourself, the next, you are on a solitary highway, climbing to 8,000 ft. California offers some of the best riding anywhere, there is no doubt.

The weather could not have been more perfect as we cut our way south to the border. We jumped on and off main highways, but focused on the backroads. The group as a whole clipped along at a comfortable pace. We picked up Brian along the way at a gas stop and the stopped for lunch in the small, bustling town of Julian.
An hour after that, we were at the border, with the sun already going down. We picked up one more stray, Frank, just at the border before crossing. He made his way to us via Arizona.

This whole trip had been about the preparation: The hotel arrangements, ferry tickets, and the exausting paperwork for the rental bikes. I played out so many scenarios at the border on how it could go. But when we finally got to the border, we were waved through! Boom, we were in Mexico!

We stopped at Immigration and filled out our cards, so we could go deep into the country. Then, John took point and we weaved our way through Tecate to get to our remote destination. As Mexico is, we were suddenly brought to a halt by a Police truck claiming some of us had not signaled nor stopped at some of the stop signs. He wanted $$ or he would "have to take us to the station". He told us to follow him out of town...now...it is getting dark and we are following a policeman!! Mexico strikes first!

He stopped us out of town and we asked him how much. He gave us a price, but Patrick and Steve accosted him at the same time: Patrick with questions and bargaining , and Steve with a video camera. The policeman might have been able to handle a small group, but 16 riders, an inquisitor, and a cameraman....he was overwhelmed and waved us on!

So, as promised, we were in the dark, on the way to find our hotel. Scout trips are full of adventure and unknowns. We had drawn out the itinerary and talked to locals about the route. However, with darkness and first timedness, we had to do some poking around before we were able to negociate the right road to our destination,

We arrived at our Hacienda around 6pm in total darkness. It was located at the end of about 12 miles of dirt, including a stream crossing! Some sandy portions were difficult for some of the riders on the huge GSs, but in all it was manageable. The water crossing got your attention! Yep, we were getting the adventure. And as we pulled into our accommodations, it was all smiles and laughter. We had left the reletively safe confines of southern California, and now were officially in the wilds of Mexico!

That night, we all walked over to the restaurant and enjoyed cocktails, beer and carne asada. Fresh guacamole, frijoles and salsa....ah.....Mexico!

12/9
Tecate Area to Mike's Sky Ranch

We packed our bikes under a canopy of fall leaves. The air was crisp and the sky a solid blue. A breakfast buffet awaited us of torialla chips and salsa, pancakes, hashbrowns, scrambled eggs and ham and refried beans.

We gathered over the map and looked the route over. We were going to go across country on a dirt road through Baja.

Although it was only 50 miles to the paved highway, the road proved challenging. Long areas of deep sand was the order of the day. Most of it was negotiable, but some of it on these big GSs, was a challenge. Bikes were picked up throughout the day. If anything, we all became much better riders because of it.

When we finally hit the pavement again, it was a relief. We sped through the Baja desert south as the sun made its way to the horizon. We stopped at a gasoline station that sold it at liters at a time by hand. Then on to a small restaurant for a burrito lunch.

When we entered the restaurant, we ordered. Then the woman yelled across the street, and thats when we realized she had nothing to make the order: Soon a car arrived with bags of groceries. Then they were off to the kitchen cooking furiously. Before an hour was through, 13 people had been fed! They never say "I can't do that" in Mexico.

The last ride into Mikes Sky Ranch was challenging. Again, sand was along the entire route and with the sun leaving on the horizon, it cast a difficult filter on us. We could not see the road clearly through the shadows cast by it. So, you would go barreling into a bunch of sand and have to just keep on the throttle.

Mike's Sky Ranch has been a Mecca for motorsports enthusiasts for many years. We knew it would take some doing to get there and it was sure worth it. When you arrive, they wave you into the compound. You ride right by reception, then into a pool area, and pick a spot to park around the pool!

Next it was smiles, beers and stories as spirits were raised when the last member of our group made it through the doors. Laughter ran around the poolside under a canopy of blaring stars.

At 7pm, we all went into the dining hall to enjoy a steak dinner - Mikes Specialty.
The ride in was exausting, so most of the riders adjourned to their bedrooms to catch up on the needed rest: We would have to make a run at the same road going out the next day, and I am sure that no one was looking forward to that!

A true adventure we are having in Mexico!

Day 3

Mike's Sky Ranch to Bahia de los Angeles

The next morning at breakfast I admitted that I started awake several times the night before with the vision of crossing my handlbars sideways while baralling down a sandy area.... To this many heads knodded in agreement. We were all a little aprehensive about the ride back out to the highway. The night before, we were tired and the darkness took its toll on our psych.

We hired a truck to take all of our heavy luggage out the 12 miles of dirt and sand, and met him at a gas station on the main highway. After taking the air out of the tires and lessening the load, the bike performed effortlessly through the sandy sections. Indeed, with the sun high in the sky and being rested, the ride out was a fun and no problem at all.

At some point when riding sand you realize that standing on the pegs and giving it gas is the only way to go. When you hit deep sand, the first thing you want to do is slow down and try to get control. The front tire starts to drift, and the feeling of control goes out the window. However, if you slow down, the front tire augers into the sand, and you lose all control. So, the only way to counteract this is to stay on the gas, keeping the front tire up and floating and powering through the loose sand. It feels creepy, not having traction, but the more you throttle, the more you keep upright.

We headed south along the Sea of Cortez on a beautifully paved section of highway. One section was full of Vados: Dips constructed to relieve water run-off. These woopty doos got your attention as you went down into one and saw all the scrapes in the pavement from surprised car and trailer drivers..... And then shot out of one, sometimes with the front tire in the air, sometimes the whole bike!

The desert scenery was beautiful. Mountains framed the west of us, and cactus dotted the entire area. The Sea of Cortez traveled with us the entire way on the east. The road, which they were constructing, could not have been in better condition, with almost no traffic. Then, it abruptly came to an end, and the gravel, sand and rocks started.

The light again was going away from us, so we needed to hustle throught the desert and a mountain pass to get to the paved road by dusk. Three nights out on the road, and three nights coming in after dark. Yup, Scouting Trip! The sharp rocks and steep inclines of the last mountain pass at sunset was challenging and fun, but it was a relief to be back on the pavement by time light was fading.

Back on the paved highway, the colors of the desert horizon were amazing, Dark blue turned gradually into bright pink in a 360 degree extravaganza. The rare Cirios Cactus silloetted against the waining sunlight, making for an exotic desert feast for the eyes. The temperature was just on the cool side, and the air was clean.

We pulled into our hotel about 45 minutes after sunset. We had had a long day, but everyone was safe and settled in. There was no restaurant at our hotel and we were located some way out of town. The owner gladly ran into town and ordered food and brought back beer for us. We started a fire right on the beach, to the sound of waves lapping the shore. The stars shown fiercely in the sky. Laughter started and never stopped amongst the group.

Dinner arrived and we were called into the main dining hall. Fresh fish and carne asada, rice, beans and of course the ubiquitous tortillas. A great meal to finish an truly adventurous day.

After dinner, we all went back to the fire and the sound of the ocean mixed with the "Bench Racing" stories under the canopy of stars was quite a scene. It was day three and these adventurers were now in stride. We were deep in Mexico, and you could feel the change of pace, the feeling of tranquility. The stories went on and on into the night until, gradually, there were no more people around the fire.

It would be a late start the following day, and after such demanding days of riding, we were all looking forward to a rest. The only thing to schedule would be the sunrise the next morning over the Sea of Cortez.

Day 4
Bahia de Los Angeles

We had a short day of only 150 paved miles, so we decided to take it easy in the morning and not clutch out until 11am. I woke early to catch the sunrise over the sea. I walked out to the beach and sat at a little bungalow right on the water and watched the sky turn from dark black to bright blue for the next hour. Oranges, yellows and reds joined the celebration throughout.

We ate a hearty breakfast of bread, coffee, eggs and frijoles. Some wrenched on bikes and some took walks on the beach. At 10:30, everyone was pretty much restless, so we decided to take off.

We climbed out of the Bahia de los Angeles through curves of cactus. The sun at our backs and we could enjoy all the desert scenes we missed on the way in. This dry, parched place was full of life and held its own type of beauty. The sky was again clear, the temperature about 70F.

Much of the highway after a time turned straight, but the desert views were still astounding. We stopped in the salt town of Guerrero Negro for lunch at a place Lynn knew about. Fresh fish and great chips and salsa: it was refreshing to actually sit down to a relaxed meal! Usually, we were just trying to keep from getting in after the dark!

We motored on to San Ignacio. This oasis of a town was first settled in the 1700's by the Spanish, who constructed a Mission there. The town is littered with palm trees and has standing open water - something we had not seen for days. There was a feeling there in the town square of contentment, peace.

The place we had booked was through a friend of a friend and was a camp ground/yurt complex. It was located on the edge of a lagoon, under a canopy of palm trees. The yurts and cabins were spaced out and featured wonderful beds and were clean. Terry, our host, was an ex pat from Canada and had been running this place for the past 12 years. Though the bathrooms were common and it was not the fanciest of places, the rooms were extremely clean and her hospitality was world class. There was a refrigerator full of drinks where the billing was on the honor system. She had an impressive fish, potato and green bean buffet laid out for us that evening.

We sat underneath the palm trees in our shorts and t shirts and enjoyed a home cooked meal and laughter...the story machine had started again and there were no signs of it stopping.

We drifted off one at a time for bed. Some stayed up late, and you could hear their laughter flutter through the palms.

Day 5
San Ignacio

Terry fixed us a hearty egg/bacon/sausage/fresh bread breakfast as we sampled her home made marmalades. Coffee was flowing early this morning as we had to make 400 miles to La Paz. After breakfast, the sky was turning light, and the group broke up into small touring teams and left sporatically.

At first, the temperature was very cool, even colder than Alaska in the summer! The sun was just rising and we were headed straight for it. Much of the time, I had to keep my hand up to block its blinding rays. The smell of the air was marvelous: clean and crisp!

We hit the coast of the Sea of Cortez, and headed south. Our first stop was in the town of Rosario and a church made by Eiffel himself, that had been at the World Fair in Europe in the 1880, and transported here and reconstructed, piece by piece.
We rode through the town and then continued down the coast.

This part of the road was some of the best we had ridden the entire time. Curve after curve for over an hour as we sped south along the Cortez's puddle. Traffic was light and the road was in great condition. At times, you had vistas of white, sandy beaches, clear sea water and islands scattered in the distance. These places beckoned you to stay just a little longer. I was not prepared for such pretty vistas on the Baja.

We lunched at the town of Constitucion. It was no more than a taco shop off to the side of the busy main road, but the food was considered by most to be some of the best of the trip. It seemed everywhere we went, the food was fresh and flavorful. And they nailed the salsa every time!

We motored through the straight-aways for the rest of the day and pulled into La Paz before the sunset. Although a long day, we all made good time and were not too taxed for it. The place we had picked out was out of town and sat right on the water. As the sun set through palm trees, we sat poolside and enjoyed margaritas and traded stories.

Day 6

La Paz

We had all day today before having to catch a ferry for Mazatlan. We all needed to go to a bank to pay for the immigration fee and catch lunch. Rain arrived in full force as we rode into town to find a bank. Rivers of water were rushing down through the streets as we made our way through town.

The line at the bank was unbelievable, and we had to wait for a full hour before paying our gringo entrance fee.

We regrouped at the hotel and rode out to the ferry. We had to go through customs and wait an hour for them to print our tickets before being able to board.

Frank was on pins and needles, as he was awaiting paperwork for him to be able to bring his bike onto mainland Mexico. His original bike started blowing oil right before the trip. Sad, since he had taken the time to register it for a temporary vehicle import, and could not bring it. So, in haste, he brought a second bike and had to rush all of the paperwork at the last minute. He had had the paperwork forwarded to the hotel in La Paz, and as of the morning, it still had not arrived. He was working on Plan B as we pulled out of the parking lot.

As we were in line for the ferry, he showed up, saying the paperwork had come in just as we left! Now, the gang was back together again and headed to Mazatlan!

We all reserved births, so we had a bed and toilet for the 14 hours ferry ride.

Day 7
Durango

Across the Sea of Cortez to Mazatlan was smooth riding. The births we had were compact and comfortable. There was a cafeteria which served food and drinks, including beer, during the trip. There was an outdoor area you could peruse and take in the surrounding sea. Everyone commented that they slept the best during this night. Perhaps it was the rock-a-by-baby motion of the water and the dull shaking of the engine?

We docked at 11AM in Mazatlan. The busy port city was full of buildings as far as the eye could see. It took a full hour to unload all of the trailers and trucks and cars before we were allowed off. They had stuck us in the hull of the ferry: hot and humid and smelling of oil and fish.

As we had at least 200 miles of curves ahead of us to Durango, I was itching to get on the road. We assembled the group, and followed John out of the city. He had picked a route that was off the main thoroughfare, and it squirted us onto the main road out of town south just as the city ended. We were on route to the famed "Spine of the Devil" - a road considered to be one of the top ten in the world for motorcycling.

As we climbed toward Durango, it was apparent we were in for quite a ride! We stopped to gas one last time, and then split into smaller groups and headed to Durango. The curves started and never stopped for 100 miles. They were in the midst of constucting a new highway, which we could see along the way: modern tunnels, high suspension bridges...at the cost of billions of dollars. It would take years to build and would be the most expensive road project in the history of Mexico.

The curves were consistent, banked and never ending. The pavement was in European condition. Bob commented, " in North Carolina, the famed "Tail of the Dragon" lasted 11 miles..... this road, was every bit of that, and lasted 100 miles!"

Mexico was thrown at you, though. You had to be weary on each curve, as the long 18 wheelers had to pitch out far into your lane in order to make the curve. Sometimes they would meet each other and one would have to stop and back up. So, each corner was fun, but you had to take it with caution.

We were trying to beat the sunset, so we pressed on. Many of the vistas were spectacular but fleeting. There was a section of road where it traveled along the base of a cliff face...absolutely stunning!

We all pulled into Durango at our Hotel with smiles and high fives. Everyone trailed in by 7PM. Their comments on the road were the same: one of the best roads they had ever ridden.

We dined that night at the hotel under a vaulted ceiling and exquisite chandalliers, and some of us took to the streets after dinner..We walked to a broad pedestrian mall and along the way, we passed about 7 or 8 mariachi bands getting ready for the evening. Whether these bands were going to play at a certain bar or were just for hire, it was hard to tell. But the sure numbers of mariachi bands.....how beautiful.

Durango deserves a second look.

Day 8
Durango - Parrall

We invited an American to join us for dinner the night before, Stephen, who is an avid ADV Rider contributer. He told us of a newly paved road that is not on the maps, on the way to Parrall. So, we took his advice and explored this new road.

It was a great ride: we entered a broad valley full of farms, desert rocks and Mennonites. The new road Stephen told us about was made of poured contrete, and topped the hills all the way back to the main highway. In an hour, we passed only 10 cars.

When we pulled into Parrall, the city was hopping with Christmas cheer. We passed though the center of the city and the main plaza and were overwhelmed with Christmas lights, decorations, and thousands of people. It was Saturday night, and most Mexicans had received their Christmas bonus and were out to shop and enjoy the occasion. We pulled into our hotel and caught up with the rest of the group. Everyone loved that road.

We got word that a bike had gone down and that one of the groups would have to go to "Plan B". Some of them would press on to Parrall that evening, and the rest would stay with the bike and try to arrange a truck to get it to Parrall the next day. Apperently, Bob had hit some loose stuff and collided right into a rock wall. He was fine, but the bike was done.

Day 9
Parrall to ?

We decided to break the group apart. The main group would go with Lynn and make a run at going to the bottom of Copper Canyon and on to Batopilas. I would stay behind and find a way to deal with downed bike.

John, Brian and Bob showed up around 11 AM with the bike in the back of a truck. I talked to the guy with the truck, and asked him if it were possible to arange that the bike get transported north towards the border of the USA. He said he could not do it personally, but his cousin possibly could. After meeting his family, getting fed, negociating a price, transferring the bike to another truck and driving through horrid Christmas traffic, we finally were on the road north. I would split from the group and go with the bike to the town of Nuevas Casas Grandes - a 9 hour drive north. I would give my bike up to Bob, and they would rest there the day (they did not get any sleep the night before) and then they would catch up with the rest of the group in Creel the next evening.

I talked to Kevin, who was running our Long Beach office and told him the circumstances. He agreed to take his truck and another GS1200 south to the border. He would leave the bike on the US side for Bob to ride, and cross with the truck to carry the wounded bike back to the shop. So, now "Plan B" was enveloping into and multinational bike extrication operation!

I jumped into the truck with my driver, Jaime, and we headed north immediately. We drove until dark and arrived in the bustling city of Chihuahua. There, we went to his friends house, and spent the night. I was exausted, and slept deeply on the floor of the living room. I got word from Lynn that the road to Batopilas was closed, and under contruction. They would be staying two nights in Creel until the other group caught up.

The adventure was unfolding....

Day 10
Chihuahua to Nuevas Casas Grandes

I got word that the groups reunited safely. Some took a run at another road to the bottom of the canyon while others just rode to a look out over the canyon. This was turning into a true expedition.

I got up early and drove north with Jaime. By 11AM, we were in Nuevas Casas Grandes. Kevin had just crossed the border with the bike and was headed my way. We unloaded the bike, ate lunch, and bid farewell. Thanks Jaime!

Then, a call came in from Kevin that he could not make it to hotel. The police would not let the motorcycle past the checkpoint. It did not have the temporary vehicle import papers and they were not about to let that go. He reserved to turn around and stay at Janos, a small town just north of the checkpoint. Plan C was now in effect. Within minutes of finding out that the bike would not make it with Kevin, I arranged to be picked up the next morning by a fellow I saw on the street, Reynaldo. He was standing near an automobile service business, and I surmised that if anyone would have the ability to carry a motorcycle....

I asked that he come by at 8 am. He looked at me and said, "Mexicans don't get up that early..." So we bargained on 9.

That evening, I got a fitful sleep. It had been a long haul on the road.

Day 11
Nuevas Casas Grandes to Janos

I got word from the group they were all doing fine and headed to Nuevas Casas Grandes. I packed my stuff and the van showed up with Reynaldo and his pilot, Mauricio. We took some time loading the beast of a 1200 GS into the van and rambled down the road. It was but an hour long ride and soon, we were in a courtyard of a chicken hotel with Kevin. We unloaded one GS for another, bid farewell to my new Mexican friends, and Kevin and I caught up for just a few minutes before he headed back to Long Beach.

Since I did not have the proper paperwork for the bike and the was a police check point between me and where the group would arrive that evening, I opted to take a room for $15 and hang my hat. I spent the day catching up on work, took a hike to the tallest hill in town and generally relaxed.

Word came in that the group had arrived in Nuevas Casas Grandes and that they were back to "Bench Racing" at the bar. Good to hear that they were all safe and sound!

Tomorrow, the plan is to wait for them along the side of the road until they breeze by and get in line. We will be heading to Arizona. Goodbye, Tacos!

Day 12

Janos, Mexico to Oracal, AZ

I got a text from John that the group was ready to ride. They were 50 Kilometer south of me. I finished breakfast, packed my bike and headed out of town south to meet the group. Within minutes they came streaming by, all waves. We all gathered in town and there was a round of handshakes and fistbumping. It was good to be with the group again, and I said "It's good to be speaking English again!"

The wind was fierce and reminded me of southern Patagonia. It must have been ripping by at 50 miles an hour, and you had to lean into it to stay on the road. The temperature started plummet and passing the big trucks was a challenge. It seemed every day, no matter how straight forward the ride was, there was alway a set of challenges.

As we climbed over a pass in the desert it started to snow. Great, I thought, we are in the desert and it is of course snowing. We stopped briefly to put on extra layers. A truck stopped to warn us that the snow was sticking on the road. Some of the riders were apprehensive, but it was at least worth a look to see how bad it was. If it was not sand it was trucks. If it was not trucks it was potholes. If not potholes, snow. Mexico was an accomplished challenge. We crested the pass and the snow was constant but not really sticking on the road surface. The temperature plummeted. The group pushed on. We ended up at lowered elevations with no snow and pressed on, though the wind remained cold.

We pulled into Agua Prieta and went to the border. There, we had to check in at the Banjercito, the folks that had issued us our Temporary Vehicle Import stickers. There, they scanned them and stamped our passports at immigration. Now, we were all set up to go back to the USA. We pulled into a long line of cars and moved through the border control. All of us went through without incident except the Canadian, who was pulled aside and searched.

We found a restaurant, ate lunch and bid farewell to some of the members. Little by little, riders were tearing off, and heading back home. We had already lost Brian in Mexico. Now, four more were headed back to LA.

We continued north through the Arizona desert. The temperature remained chilly. We passed through the old mining town of Bisbee and the old west town of Tombstone. In Benson, we decided to split apart into two groups, one on paved and the other on a dirt route to our accommodations. I chose to go with the dirt gang and it was a magical ride. The night colors came on, with hues of violets and pinks and the red rocks of the distant mountains and looming cacti, made for a magical desert scene. The dirt road was in great condition and the group loved the solitude and the scenery. We pulled into the Ranch Style retreat just minutes before the other group. The temperature hung around the freezing point. We checked into our warm cabins and in each one there was a fire all set up to start!

We gathered around the dinner table that evening and enjoyed an enormous buffet of very good food. Laughter again reigned, and it was good to be back in the good ol security of the US of A.

After dinner, we went to the conference center and I set up the flat screen television to show the movie I had been filming the entire trip. We all mixed a cocktail and sat down to watch. It was fun to see us ride Mexico...some of the memories seemed so distant, yet they had just happened!

Day 13

The temperature still clung to the freezing point as I crunched through some snow on the way to breakfast. The sky was blue, and the sun was out, but that was it for a show of heat.

After breakfast, we loaded our bikes and headed out. We would split again into two groups: one taking the most direct highway way, and another picking their way through the mountains.

I was with the group that would take the longer route. We headed out due north and Arizona shown with all her beauty. A long paved highway spread out in front of us with no traffic. Cactus lined the road on both sides. The road lead through small canyons, through open country and past large lakes. The solitude was enticing. The space was endless. I could see why people fell in love with this part of the world.

We approached a mountain range and decided to take the twistiest road option. We climbed into the mountains and stopped for lunch in the little copper mining town of Jerome. There, we contemplated going further, as there were icy patches in the shadows. Daunting.

The road was incredibly twisty as we climbed up and over the range. The icy patches were sporadic, but not too bad. What would a day without adrenaline be?

After a long last stretch on a flat highway, fighting against a blinding sunset, we finally pulled in to Bullhead City. Right across the river from where we stayed was the mini Vegas of Laughlin. Flashing lights versus small country inn. ...we opted to take taxis to a Casino to have dinner.

Day 14

Cutting Across Desert

We picked the most direct route we could for the final push home. It was sad, really, because the reality was this trip was coming to an end. Big flat split highway into the horizon. We just kept at it until we hit LA traffic. After the lonely roads of Mexico, this was quite a culture awakening: 16 lanes of traffic. Entire cities on the move. There was nothing like the highway traffic in LA.

We finally pulled into our shop in Long Beach. Smiles and hand shakes went around. We had ridden Mexico! Such a good group of enthusiastic riders! It was good to be home, but I was already missing the lawlessnes of Mexico.

That night we had dinner at an elegant Italian Restaurant in downtown Long Beach. Opera, Italian wine, and stories of Mexico. Dave brought his wife and son to join us and there we were, a much smaller group than had originally sat down to a welcome dinner a fortnight ago. All smiles and full of new adventurous stories - enough to keep friends and family busy until the next time.

Mexico? There is a distinct culture shift the minute you cross the border. The time seems to slow. Some laws become less important, some more. The sun was warm. There are roads down there that are just unbelievable, and a vibrant feeling you get from the locals. Ah.....Mexico. Those beaches and those winding roads are calling again already....

Ten Days of Turkey

Wed, 24 Oct 2012 15:16:34 -0800

On the first day of Turkey, Kazim Gave to me....

1st A UNESCO World Heritage Site,
2nd Mushroom Capped Pillars,
3rd A Hot Air Balloon Ride,
4th Rumi's Whirling Dervy's,
5th A Roman Theatre,
6th Oceanfront Villa,
7th A Harbor Paradise,
8th Romantic Hilltop Getaway,
9th A major coliseum,
10th Istanbul Night Traffic....

Istanbul

I'd never been to Istanbul before and had no expectations. I just knew that anyone that I had met had something good to say about Turkey. When I arrived at the airport, I was instructed to look for my name on a piece of paper. There it was, good, Plan A in effect. Now to find out what their money was called and what language they spoke. (Don't tell my mom I travel like this.)

The ride in from the airport and the night air was hanging at a comfortable 22 degrees - not hot nor cold and the t-shirt was the way to go. My first impression, as I scanned the road, the cars, the advertisements, and the buildings was that this country is clean and functions as a first world nation. Then a waft of sewage permeated the cab and from the car in front of us a plastic bag is thrown out the window. I smiled: this country had a tinge of the third world too. Suddenly I started to develop a crush on the place.

I like order, but chaos is much more fun, and this country was showing just hints of straddling both worlds. I liked it.

We pulled into a narrow, cobblestoned street and I was deposited at my Hotel. In my room, and in all the hotel rooms I go to, I first go to the window to see if... YES! I can open it up ALL THE WAY. My crush deepens. I like a country that lets you open your hotel room window all the way. I know it sounds funny, but symbolically, take this as: " we let you decide whether you want to jump out or not." It does not seem so controlling, with fewer regulations.

I showered and hit the streets with the goal of, well, taking in the night air. I walked through a narrow archway, old. I crossed the street and was suddenly on the shores of the Mamara Sea. The night air hung at an incredibly comfortable temperature. Small boats were bobbing back and forth just off the shore. Further out, large, dark ships lurked silently. From the distant shore brightly lit buildings, both modern mini skyscrapers and old neighborhoods could be seen clearly. Distant lights twinkled from further distant shorelines far to the south. It was reletively quiet except for the lapping of the water against the rock laid shore and the buzz of the traffic along the Kennedy Expressway. Fishermen in small groups of three and four sat around charcoal burners and cooked dinner, drinking idly, watching the glowing tips of their poles for any sign of a tug. This trading crossroads has been known for Constantinople, and many other names , and you could feel the energy. This was and always will be, with its waterways and land routes, the trading crossroads and cultural collision of the world. Standing on the shore of the Mamara, watching the shipping, the lit up Mosques, and the low, barely audible talk of the local fishermen, I felt the timelessness of this place. Yes, the crush was now passing its first stages.

I walked down the shore on a paved path which turned into a park. Groups of people sat on mats cooking from small charcoal barbecues, drinking and laughing. Cars were parked illegally with their doors open, with music spilling out, with people standing in lines holding each other, dancing. A soccer game was played on a patch of lawn around a pile of garbage. Chicken bones where scattered here and there and cats - oh the cats - were everywhere, owning the city. I picked a side street and climbed up a hill. I ducked into a random restaurant, hoping for a view. I found what I was looking for: a single stool, an open window and a view of the promenade, the sea and a full moon rising. This crush was going to get heavy, I thought to myself. "Waiter, can I have a class of wine? Let's turn this crush into love."

The next day was full of taxis, elegant meals, meeting old and new friends, saying hello and goodbye... We were assembled to ride through Turkey with Kazim and learn about this crossroads of a country, this historic pillar. I was starting to get excited.

Monday, Oct 1

We mounted our motorcycles and headed out into Istanbul traffic. Not too congested, and we eased our way along the Kennedy Expressway to a ferry. There, we crossed the busy Bosphorus. What a site, with all the boat, ferry and ship traffic. It reminded me of the business of Thailand, but the style of the pointed towers of the Muslim Mosques and the light colored houses gave this such a Turkish flavor.

After the ferry, we quickly entered a Toll Highway and sped for two hours, distancing ourselves from the huge metropolis. Istanbul has 15 million people - 1/5 of the country's population. Because of its unique postion in the world - so many navigable waterways, latitude for growing crops, and its postion between Asian and European trading markets, it's obvious that Turkey is on the move... always has been, always will be. We stopped at a roadside rest area, which was as impressive as any modern mall. And the bathrooms! You could have played a scrimmage soccer game in there, with smooth rock floors and wood-sided urinals... one of the best bathrooms I have ever seen.

The food at lunch was picked from a buffet. I chose the lamb, mashed potatoes and beef cooked rice with a side salad. Keleigh got the stuffed pepper, the tastes were great, the sourdough bread was a treat. You could feel that the food was organic, healthy and absolutely delicious!

After lunch, we quickly hopped off the expressway, and into the countryside. The temperature was hanging over 80 degrees F. The road was rough pavement with gravel strewn across it in many spots. As we climbed, we became enveloped by pine trees and it started to remind me of California.

It was good to get off the highway, and onto some back roads with little or no traffic.

We pulled into Safranbolu about an hour before sunset. This little town used to be a camal stop on the silk road route and is now a UNESCO World Heritage City. The place we checked into has been around since 1630, and used to house the camel train drivers, and their animals! Arches made out of large stones, open courtyard and dinky little arched wooden doorways that portaled you into your room. The rock seemed to keep the rooms cool.

Each room had a vaulted dome ceiling, which leant to the atmosphere. Yes, we were in Turkey. We were surrounded by Mosques, and many pointed towers with speakers hanging from them, so when the call for prayer happened, you were right there! One call came just as we arrived, and one more followed at sunset. The cobblestone streets in this section of town were very narrow, with shops lining each one with quiet vendors chatting about this or that, and grapevines overhead in some sections. The atmosphere just could not be more tranquil. The surroundings, with their historical aura, could not be better. The riding was good, but the destination was world class!

That night, we walked up the street to a open-air restaurant and ordered a pizza style dish, salads and slow cooked lamb; all of it was suberb. The food so far had been top shelf and fresh.

Sleeping in the thick rock walled rooms was a joy. It was like a tomb, silent and comfortable -- except the call to prayer at just before 6!

Day 2

We cut across the country and the bread basket of Turkey. The first hours of the day were spent riding amongst pine trees with switchbacks galore. We leveled out onto the farm lands and had to deadhead across expanses of wheat fields. The temperature shot up, but did not get too hot. We stopped for lunch in the shade and another time for a drink.

Most of the day was spent getting there, to Cappodoccia. We pulled a 300+ mile day and turned off the engines just before dark. And what a sight: our hotel was carved out of a rock cliff. Unbelievable! I was a Flintstone! The rooms were elegant, provided that you did not mind a cave, I mean literally!.

Day 3

The phone rang in my room at 4:45am... Oh yeah, Hot air balloon time! We climbed into a mini bus and headed to a main office where tourists from all over the world sipped coffee and waited for the final OK for flight. Then it was back on the bus and to the outskirts of town where a spectacle was underway. Back in the early 90's an English/Swedish couple started offering hot air balloon rides here and now it has turned in to quite a prodcution! Every year, over 90,000 tourists enjoy this very special way of seeing the Cappadocia pillars and surrounding areas. The pillars are mushroom capped stands of rock, that, over time look like a gigantic garden. These shapes are throughout the area and over the years, people have constructed houses and storage out of them.

When we arrived at our launch place, dozens and dozens of balloons were already in flight, passing by silently, high and low. It gave one chills to the senses, as if you were part of something much bigger than yourself! We waited anxiously for our balloon to be filled, jumped into the basket, practiced a hard landing and then magically, we silently lifted off. If you have never gone on a hot air balloon ride, then you should! The ride lasted for around an hour and a half, and was simply magical. At one point, the driver took us into a narrow canyon and literally amongst the rock pillars; simple amazing. Overlooking the surrounding area, with literally 100 balloons in sight just gave a tingle.

Once we were back to our "Flintstones" Hotel, we jumped on the bikes, and Kaz showed us an underground city, where persecuted Christians used to live. The caverns were chisled out of the soft stone and went down 9 floors and have cooking, sleeping and wine making rooms. Not for the claustrophobic, the tour was interesting. We went on to check out some more pillars, and then back to the hotel to relax. The ride was only around 60 KM long and it was nice not to have to do so many miles in a day.

After getting up so early, most of the group napped some and we reconvened for dinner. We just walked down into the town of Urgup and picked a restaurant. Again, I was amazed at the food of Turkey. Slow oven-roasted chicken over a bed of tomatoes and seasoned with salt and garlic... yes!

Day 4/5 Oct 4/5

We left the land of the mushroom capped stone pillars and headed across the breadbasket of Turkey again. Already, in the first days of riding, you could have mistaken this country for the California Sierras, Eastern Washington, and the Utah desert...

We cut across farmland on a lonely sweeper road for the first part of the day. A large Volcanic Mountain loomed in the distance. We stopped at Sultan Hani - a well-preserved camel stop on the Silk Road. Built in the 13th century, this walled complex hosted the camel trains that traveled the old trade route. It features large stone construction, tall archways and a place for the camels to be housed during the winter. Fascinating!

We also headed to the heart of the city of Konya, a conservative enclave of Turkey. There, we visited Rumi' s Tomb... a guy that started the mystical sect of the Whirling Dervishes. After the city, we headed into the mountains, and, as we climbed, the traffic tapered off and the views went to spectacular. We wound up and over a pass surrounded by tall rocky mountains and pine trees. This was not the Turkey I expected! Kaz led us to a small inn perched on the side of a hill, overlooking a peaceful valley. This is where we spent the night, surrounded by elegant artwork and furniture and a soothing view. We had a drink poolside as we soaked up the last rays of the sun. A fantastic finish to a great day of discovery.

The next day, we headed west towards the Mediterranean. We stopped at Aspendos Theatre - one of the best preserved Roman Theatres along the Mediterrenan. It was constructed around 155 AD and all the walls were standing and in good condition. You are free to explore as you like. Looking out over the theatre, it was a thrill to imagine what it was like to be here in the height of its day!

We rambled along the coast for a while and had lunch at an elagant restaurant Kaz knew about. Having him as our guide was invaluable: he knew where to eat, what to visit, where to park, and where to stay. We could not ask for a more knowledgable and easy going guy!

We decided as a group to head to the mountains after lunch, and what a treat: pine trees, rock outcroppings, cliffs, herds of goats, clear flowing streams, and switchback roads. It was a terrific ride, and Kaz was definely saving the best for last on this trip!

We crept into our hotel that afternoon: a horse riding resort with a great view of the mountains. I went for a soothing swim before dinner and watched the colors of the sky turn from pinks to dark blues.
Dinner that eveing was at the hotel, overlooking the pool with its manicured lawn and palm trees. Not a bad way to end the day.

Day 6: Kemer-Kekova

We woke up and strolled over to poolside with a view of the mountains.

Breakfasts usually consist of olives, an assortment of cheeses, sourdough bread, turkish tea, coffee, hardboiled eggs and a fresh omelette.

History and the extraordinary were the themes of the day. We made our way along the Mediterranean coast. It would not be a long day, and the temps were hanging in the mid 80's. We stopped at the ancient city of Phaselis - a place that had been around since 200BC. It had been a trading city throughout its history and even hosted Alexander the Great when he was moving through, on his way to conquer the world. The main streets, bath houses and theatre were still decipherable. What a setting!

The next place Kaz took us to was the flames of Chimera. A short 20 minute hike up the side of a mountain led us to these vents where methane gas was seeping out of the ground, and once it hit oxygen, flames started. They looked like an assortment of gas stove outlets, strewn around. This had been a sacred place, through the years, from the Greeks to Romans to Christians, and all had built temples and churches there. No doubt this anomaly conjured beliefs of gods and demons. Quite extraodinary!

We then took a coastal road and ended in a small town where there was a boat waiting to take us to the isolated community of Kekova. You can't drive there, though it is on the mainland. Only boats connect this ancient community with the rest of the world. Our pension was something out of Conde Nast Traveler: a boat dock connected to a restaurant, connected to the front steps of the Hotel. There was a seaside lounging area just feet above sea level. This town was protected from the open sea, and so waves are non-existent. The water was clear and the town, no more than 200 people at the most, peaceful. After a swim in the sea, we walked to the top of the small hill in town where there was an ancient fortress. The panorama was exquisite! We walked along the ridge amongst a garden of sarcophagi where large chiseled blocks from a Lycian fort littered the grounds. It seemed everywhere you went, there was history. Most of it originating before the birth of Christ. What a profound place, this Turkey.

That night, we dined out on the rock dock: white linen and candlelight. The breeze was a whisper and the temperature was perfect, neither hot nor cold. Fresh shrimp, calamari, salad and a mezze, an assortment of turkish appetizers, were the fare. Not a bad ending to a great day. Turkey is magical, and is perfect for couples. There is such diversity here, it's not what you would expect. In October, the temperatures are just perfect, and the sites are not crowded. We really were hitting it on this one.

Day 7 Kevova - Bodrum

We ate breakfast to the sound of the Mediterranean Sea lapping the stone dock. We watched the most spoiled ducks in the world leisurely swim and eat chunks of bread. We gathered our stuff and threw it into the boat and headed back to the Turkish mainland.

The weather was warm and the cooling air was a relief as we headed into the mountains. Kaz chose a winding road that took us into the countryside. We popped out at the Aegean Sea coast and rode along it for the bulk of the day. Ocean, pine trees, small boat harbors, this was the order of the day. We paused for a refreshment at a small yachting town and just took in the speed of the lifestyle: people sat seaside playing backgammon, a parrot squawked, and sail boats came into the harbor. Slowly the day was passing in this corner of the world.

We finished up the ride to Bodrum in the late afternoon, just before sunset. The hotel Kaz had picked out sat perched on a hill overlooking the ancient city - known to be one of the 36 paradises on earth. The sun set with all of its brilliant orange hues over the harbor city and a warm breeze rushed up the slope to meet us. The poolside of this hotel was extraordinary and it was very pleasant to wrap up a day of riding this way... too pleasant!!

That evening, we grabbed a cab and went down to the city to a restaurant that Kaz had picked out. Excellent fresh seafood was the fare and the open-air family style atmosphere was fun.

Day 8 Bodrum - Sirince

We headed north mid-morning toward the fabled ruins of Ephesus. The weather just would not stop cooperating. The ride was filled with ruins all day long. It was clear that Turkey is just a museum. Everywhere we went, left and right from the roadway, there was something that pre-dated Christ. It was just the order of business for the Turkish, but for me, I could not believe it. We stopped at a 2nd century temple for Zeus: tall pillars and blocks of stone.

This particular ruin had no one around, and we had it to ourselves. It seemed so timeless, just standing there, trying to contemplate just how they constructed such a building. Those stones are heavy! We carried on to the temple of Apollo, and it was even more impressive. The rock work pre-dated that of the Incas, and was precise, lavish and still there! I was not prepared to be so moved by these ruins. But standing next to the pillars made your heart skip a beat. These ruins had been around for 2,500 years, and the precision that they used to build them and the scale just boggled the mind. This was the day that I realized that going to Turkey was not only special, it was a necessity, if you had any interest at all in history.

We ended the day by climbing into the hills to the small town of Sisince. The place that Kaz had picked out was as romantic, secluded and elegant as you could have dreamed. The owner had taken the time to construct this hotel in a way that each room was unique and private. One room even had a small waterfall in the entrance! The surrounding countryside was full of small farms and steep slopes.

Dinner that night was in a candlelit stone building complete with archways, and a courtyard dominated by a water fountain filled with flower petals. The food, as always, was delicious and healthy.

Day 9 Sirince

We had the day free but Kazim had some great plans. We rode down to the Roman ruins of Ephesus, and contemplated a bustling harbor city of 250,000 from the 2nd century. We sat in the coliseum, we walked the main boulevards, we checked out the library and the baths. We took it all in and tried to imagine it all, years ago, when the ocean actually used to touch the city. It is hard to imagine all the people, in their robes, doing what they were doing, but you get a tinge of it. The old columns, the cobblestones, the precise rock work: it was just astounding.

We then went on to a museum that featured many of the best statues of the city and wandered and wondered. Then it was off to my favorite part of the day: lunch. We sat in the shade off of a quiet street and enjoyed kebabs, and all the other dishes too numerous and delicious to count. The rest of the day, we spent back at our very relaxing place at the top of the hill surrounded by corn and donkeys. That night, we just decided to go to the same hotel restaurant, and since we did not make a reservation, they did not have any main courses for us. Just as well, we had been eating like crazy the entire time, so Kaz just said "Bring what you have" and we ate a great salad with breads and a good wine.

Day 10 Sirince to Istanbul

We headed north and made it just after mid day to the Mamara Sea, where we were to board a ferry to cross to Istanbul. The day ride was pleasant, but not particularly noteworthy. We stopped in the port town of Izmir to have a refreshment, and to take in the harbor. We were winding down, and the thrill of the week was now turning to the reality of going home. What a trip it had been. I did not know what to expect, and all I could think about was the profundity of the history, the delicious taste of the food, the coast of the Mediterranean. There was enough diversity in the ride to keep you really engaged all week long. As we sped through the night lights of Istanbul,\ to return the bikes all I could do was smile. The temperature was perfect, the water, the boat traffic was electric, the chic bars alive: Istanbul!! It was good to be back.

We added an extra day and went to the Grand Bazaar, and visited the big Mosques, and walked the streets. Istanbul has a magic all its own and is a must for a day or two at the beginning or the end of this trip.

Kaz was extremely hospitable, genuine, and knowledgeable. This trip is a MUST for couples and for those who love history. If Turkey is not on your list, it certainly should be. We are looking forward to putting together a MotoQuest tour here every October, when the temperature is just right.
Don't mess it up, come to Turkey. It's time to crush!

Some lasting images of Turkey...

The 10 Dos and Don'ts of the Dalton

Sun, 16 Sep 2012 11:54:37 -0800

The 10 Dos and Don'ts of the Dalton

414 miles of frost-heaves, broken chip seal and grated dirt surfaces, the Dalton Highway has its challenges. On a good day, you can ride it wide open. On a bad day, you can go home in a helicopter.

Every year motorcyclists are killed on the Dalton Highway. This road offers the rider the adventure gamut. Almost half of the highway is paved or chip sealed. The other half can be smooth or baseballs. There are relatively no places to stop along the way: no gas, no convenient stores, no McDonalds. There are stretches of up to 245 miles without gas. You are literally riding through pristine wilderness. There are no tire shops or police stations. A wrecker to the Arctic Circle from Fairbanks is a $1,600 bill. Dalton Highway, mile marker 300: Welcome to the food chain.

I was riding north on the Dalton Highway during one of my tours. It was raining and I was on a section of chip seal, which is english for sh#tty pavement and an 18-wheeler was headed toward me. Between us was a pothole the size of a Volkwagon Beatle full of water. I could barely see the truck, the road and everything else. I crossed the semi just as it hit the pothole, sending me literally a child's play-pool amount of water crashing into me. Along with the muddy water were bits of road: concrete, rocks...and as this stuff was dripping down the inside of the my face shield, I laughed out loud. Here I was, going down the road at about 50 miles an hour in the MIDDLE OF NOWHERE and I could not see a thing! I thought to myself, "This is no ordinary road."

After many trips up this road, I put together a list of dos and don'ts when riding it. Here it goes:

1. Don't: Put Weight Up High

Pack your bike with care. On the Dalton, you are going to hit 700 yards of terror. The road is going to be so slick you lose all traction, and every little thing in your favor is precious. Keep your center of gravity low. Anything heavy in your gear should be at the bottom of your panniers, strapped to your bike low, or discarded altogether. A classic example of over packing are the motorcycle campers who have so much stuff, and they need to put it somewhere. Then, the tendency is to pack it high on the bike. Big mistake.
For the riders on the BMW 1200 Adventures, this rule also applies. I have talked to a handful of riders on these beastly steeds that have topped off their 9 gallon tanks, only to hit a slippery section on the highway and go down. This usually means parts of the bike and rider get broken. My advice to them is to fill up their tanks with only 7 gallons, instead of topping it off.

On the Dalton, no matter how you plan and what the weather, you can always have a mile of terror. Talk to one rider and they breezed up and down it, enjoyed 70 degree temperatures, and the ride was easy. Talk to another with the same weather conditions, and they hit several road construction areas where a grater and a water truck are working together to make your life a sloppy misery. As long as you bank on a greasy mile of muck, you should be prepared for the Dalton. There is a chance you will not encounter muddy conditions, but chances are you will, so come prepared.

2. Do: Choose your Tires Wisely

Long distance tourers have a dilemma: Do I pick a knobby tire or less aggressive tire? Since you are destined to hit a sloppy section on the Dalton Highway, you should be aware that there are two main schools of thought I have come across regarding the Dalton when it comes to tires. Some say knobbies, and some say 70 -30 tires. Both work and have their limitations and to be honest, much of it comes down to rider skill. Knobbies are great for the Dalton Highway. This is the surest way to prepare for the water truck or mother natures over-watering program. The only problem with knobbies is that you will have to plan ahead, since if you are riding up the highway on your own from the continental USA, you will most likely run them down before you get there. Because of this, an outfit called Adventure Cycle Works out of Fairbanks was started. You can send them your tires, have them waiting and put on before you start your run to the Arctic Ocean. Once you are on your way back down, you can have them taken off. So, a little extra time and money spent in Fairbanks will insure that you as much grip as possible for your Arctic Ocean journey.
70-30 tires are not mud tires, but are designed to displace it and keep traction. Both Metzler and Avon put out very good, long lasting tires. I am a real fan of the Avon Distanzia, which is a good street tire, but really shines when the conditions start to go sloppy. And, you can get 6,000 miles out of the rear.
There are times on the Dalton when the mud is so thick, especially in a road construction area, that you will lose your grip, no matter what tire you have. Do not be surprised when this happens. Just get on the pegs, drop a gear to gain torque, and put a little throttle on....

3. Don't: Go without an Emergency Plan

The Dalton Highway runs through the most remote parts of North America. There is no infrastructure up there to deal with accidents. If you get into an emergency situation, chances are, you are going to have to get yourself out of it. There is heavy truck traffic up and down the highway, and they do help riders quite often, but do not rely on it.
Bring a Buddy: With a second rider, at least you can formulate a plan of extraction without feeding mosquitos off to the side of the road without a plan!
SPOT: bring a spot device, especially if you are riding alone, so at least your friends and loved ones will know where you are and can help you, albeit belatedly.
Bring a Sat Phone: This is by far the smartest solution. If anything should happen, you can at least start fixing the problem immediately. The sat phone saves time, worse injury and life. There really is no good reason not to have one if you are going to travel in this remote corner of the world - especially alone.
Have Tools: (See #10)

4. Do: Make sure to have Dirt Riding Skills

The Dalton is not the place to start to learn how to ride dirt. I have seen too many gung-ho riders take their unprepared bikes up there, only to receive a strong thwarting from the conditions. Some bikes come back broken, some come back on the top of trailers. Some of these bikes never run again. The truth is, the rider did not have the skills for the terrain. Some riders seem to think that since the highway exists on a map, and looks like any other road on the map, it must be like any other road. Wrong. If you did not grow up on dirt bikes, race competatively, or take an off-road course and practice, then this road can be over your head. If you do not know to get on the pegs and give it the gas when things get creamy, then you should not be on the Dalton at all. This road will throw everything at you, and your mistake can cost you thousands of dollars or worse.
Before you ride it, be sure to know how to handle your bike in gravel, deep gravel, and mud. Practice fire roads at home and dirt tracks. Spin that back tire and get familiar with acceleration....these are the tools you need to master before going up the Dalton safely.

5. Don't: Forget about Fuel

The Dalton Highway has 245 mile stretch without fuel. Most 5-gallon tank bikes will not make this if the rider is going over 60 m.p.h. Therefore, bring a small, two-gallon fuel container and strap it to you bike for your ride north out of Fairbanks. You won't use it until Coldfoot, but you will be glad you brought it! Running out of gas on the Dalton is a bummer, and usually includes voracious mosquitoes...to be avoided if possible!

6. Do: Clean your Radiator and Air Intake

The consistency of dirt on this highway is like clay. They mix the road surface with Calcium Chloride to keep the dust down in the summer. It also acts as a natural hardener so when the road surface is dry the heavy truck traffic forms it to have the characteristics of pavement - when it is dry. When wet, a thin layer of mucky clay begins to cake onto your bike. Once it sticks to your engine, it heats up and dries like ceramic. Once this happens, you can't get it off, even with a chisel. To be sure, once you ride the Dalton, your bike will never be the same - that stuff will never come off your bike completely. This muck will cover your engine and causing it to heat up. It will also clog your radiator, your air intake and if gone unchecked will cause your engine to severely overheat, to the point that it will stop you in your tracks. I picked up a Japanese rider who had this happen to him, and he has spent a couple of miserable nights out with his mosquito friends.
To counter any problems, find a hose in Coldfoot on your way up and down...and see if you can find one in Deadhorse. This is not an easy task, but you'll find if ask nicely, you will be able to clean out your radiator and air intake in that lonely outpost.

7. Do: Choose the Right Bike.

Many riders figure that they can take their comfortable cruiser up the Dalton. This works well, until you hit that 700 yards of terror. A couple of years ago, some adventurous Harley riders chose to take on this highway after the annual HOG rally. What happened after that was a disaster: some of the riders were air-vaced out and some of the bikes never rode again. Though there are riders that make it all the way to Deadhorse on their large street bikes, many will tell you that they would not do it again.
My suggestion is that you leave your street bike for the street, and ride a dirt-oriented motorcycle on the Dalton. All of the BMW GS models do well up there and any 650 cc dual-sport style bike will be the most appropriate.
The dilemma for many long distance tourers is sacrificing the comfort of their street machine for the long miles it takes to get to Alaska. Why do that for just the couple of days it takes to ride to the Arctic Ocean? A safe solution for this is to ride to Anchorage and rent a motorcycle for that portion of the trip. Both MotoQuest (www.motoquesttours.com) and Alaska Motorcycle Adventures (www.rentalaska.com) offer this service. You can take your street bike to them for storage, and rent a well-equipped adventure bike for that portion of your adventure.

8. Don't: Push It

Most accidents I have encountered on the Dalton involved the most insidious of enemies: fatigue. The nature of the Dalton Highway plays into the hands of this very dangerous condition. There is no where to stop, no places "to see"... so the rider keeps on going. During the long summer days, the rider on vacation who has drawn up an aggressive schedule to "see it all" in Alaska will not stop until the sun goes down. In the land of the Midnight Sun, this won't happen for a couple of months!! Therefore, these riders push themselves to the brink of exhaustion...and then a little more. This is when a rider loses a second of concentration, drifts to the soft shoulder of the road, and then gets flung into the bushes. It does not take much for a rider to completely change their trip and life on this road.
To avoid this, I recommend that riders budget 4 days from Fairbanks to Deadhorse and back. Stop in Coldfoot or Wiseman for the night on your way north and on your way south. Stop in Deadhorse for the night and get some rest. I have come across too many accidents of even experienced riders who have made the ride from Coldfoot to Deadhorse, only to turn around and try to make it back to Coldfoot that evening. This is when the danger of fatigue is at its peak. The north slope of Alaska is not a place to run the risk of an accident. You are best off spending the $200+ for a night at a hotel in Deadhorse and getting your rest. This road taxes your senses and your ability to concentrate. Be smart: don't push it at all.

9. Do: Be aware of Truck Traffic

The main purpose for the Dalton Highway is for the oil companies to be able to service the oil fields at the Arctic Ocean. Large 18-wheel trucks are constantly running this road. Until a few years ago, these trucks were the only vehicles allowed to ride past the Yukon River. The culture of trucking in this neck of the woods has not changed much from those days: the truck owns the roads. When you are riding there, you need to adhere to a new set of rules and become very aware of the effect large trucks have on your ride to the Arctic.

Here are some skills you will need to develop:

When you cross a truck on dirt: Hunker down behind your windscreen. These trucks are throwing rock - sometimes the size of baseballs - and you need to protect yourself. Do not ride with your face shield open. Keep as much of your body behind a protective surfaces as possible.

Let trucks pass. Many of these trucks are empty after delivering their supplies and are trying to make time. They run at speeds of up to 90 m.p.h.!! Keep vigilant in your rear view mirror for these monsters creeping up on you. To be sure, you will be passed! The shoulders of this road are extremely soft, and will throw you into the bushes. So, when pulling over to let them by, don't slow down too much, and do not get too far off the side of the road.

Be aware of where you park. This highway will be empty for up to 30 minutes at a time. No traffic makes a rider complacent. Add a herd of caribou and the rider wants to stop and take a picture. At the time of parking, no one is around, so you choose the road as the parking lot. Then, (and this has happened) two 18-wheelers come from opposite directions and will need to pass each other right where you parked! There is simply no room for your bike to be there, and this is when things get tricky!
If you ever stop along the Dalton, make sure to pull completely off the road. Otherwise, you may get an ear-full from an Ice-road trucker in the Coldfoot parking lot! (or worse)

10. Do: Outfit your Ride

Bring the tools necessary to get you out of a pinch. Be able to take off your tire, replace an inner tube, patch a hole, plug a hole, take your bike apart, put air into your tire...All the things you wish you had brought seem to come to mind when your bike fails. Take time and prepare beforehand. Be able to take of your tires and repair them and fix problems that may arise. I always bring a manual foot pump, tool kit, tire spoons, hex set, and a syphon hose.

Accessorize your bike. Make sure it can take rocks and fall over and not get hurt. Protect your engine on the sides and underneath. Protect your hand guards. Make sure your pegs do not get slippery. Make sure you seat fits your body. Do everything you can to make that bike you ride comfortable, well balanced and able to take a hit. You will be glad you did.

Outfit the rider. Wear protective water resistent/waterproof gear that can withstand a temperature range from freezing to 100 degrees F. Waterproof boots and gloves are essencial.

These are the basics if you want to have a safe and memorable trip as far north as you can go on the North American continent. Your health and safety, of course, come first. Your lust for adventure will not be stopped. In fact, it should be encouraged! Just take a couple of these steps to make sure you get home safe and sound and have the time of your life. Ride safe!

*MotoQuest founder and lead guide Phil Freeman is a veteran of 10+ rides up the Dalton Highway. He is the co-author with motorcycle photographer/writer Lee Klancher of the book "The Adventurous Motorcyclist's Guide to Alaska" from Octane Press. Over his 13-year career as a motorcycle guide in Alaska, he has witnessed the very best and worst prepared adventure riders you can imagine.

Best of Alaska Letter of Recommendation

Wed, 12 Sep 2012 17:55:14 -0800

laska has been one of my top Bucket List items.
Living near Los Angeles, California, I knew it would be a long ride, probably taking at least a month for the round trip. And for some people, that's fine.

The problem for me though, is that I have a non driving high school teenager at home, and a wife who often works 10 to 12 hours a day / 5 days a week. To be gone for a month makes life difficult for her.

Enter MotoQuest. I departed the Los Angeles airport in the morning, arriving in Anchorage in the afternoon. Within 30 minutes I was picked up and delivered to the MotoQuest shop, then on to my luxurious hotel room. In fact, accomodations for the entire trip always exceeded my expectations.

The next day, I hopped on a very well equipped BMW F 800 that I enjoyed riding even more than my own BMW R 1200 GS at home.
For the next eight days of riding, I lived and loved every minute of the tour, usually riding with this fantastic group of like minded people, and then sometimes by myself. Occasionally riding by myself, knowing where we would meet next, allowed me to take hundreds of pictures of some of the most beautiful scenery I've ever experienced.

The daily support people: Brenden, Dom and Jason somehow managed to give everyone the riding freedom we crave, without cramping our style. They were there for our every need, definitely adding to the stress free fun factor. They were the absolute ' Best of the Best '!

One of the best aspects of the ride, however, was that I never had to worry about any kind of mechanical breakdown, as they drove a support vehicle van with plenty of tools and spare parts, not that they were ever needed. At the end of the ride, I simply returned the motorcycle for THEM to clean and service.

Also, I...didn't have to worry about making any hotel reservations, didn't have to worry about what great places we were going to eat at next, didn't have to worry about anything. In fact, my only daily chore was to recharge my camera battery, and have the absolute time of my life.

Living near Los Angeles, there's always a traffic jam somewhere. Traffic light after traffic jam, after traffic light. Then, there's our Alaska tour. I often times rode for over 100 miles without seeing a single traffic light...and never a traffic jam!

If you LOVE the Great Outdoors as much as you enjoy riding motorcycles, all within the most stress free environment you can imagine, then MotoQuest is your ride, for an unforgettable adventure.

Respectfully, Joe Bradley

A nice letter arrived from one of our Best of Alaska Participants today, Always nice to get a nice review!

The Best of Alaska with MotoQuest
September 12, 2012

Retiring 18 months ago and having ridden motorcycles for more than 45 years, A

laska has been one of my top Bucket List items.
Living near Los Angeles, California, I knew it would be a long ride, probably taking at least a month for the round trip. And for some people, that's fine.

The problem for me though, is that I have a non driving high school teenager at home, and a wife who often works 10 to 12 hours a day / 5 days a week. To be gone for a month makes life difficult for her.

Enter MotoQuest. I departed the Los Angeles airport in the morning, arriving in Anchorage in the afternoon. Within 30 minutes I was picked up and delivered to the MotoQuest shop, then on to my luxurious hotel room. In fact, accomodations for the entire trip always exceeded my expectations.

The next day, I hopped on a very well equipped BMW F 800 that I enjoyed riding even more than my own BMW R 1200 GS at home.
For the next eight days of riding, I lived and loved every minute of the tour, usually riding with this fantastic group of like minded people, and then sometimes by myself. Occasionally riding by myself, knowing where we would meet next, allowed me to take hundreds of pictures of some of the most beautiful scenery I've ever experienced.

The daily support people: Brenden, Dom and Jason somehow managed to give everyone the riding freedom we crave, without cramping our style. They were there for our every need, definitely adding to the stress free fun factor. They were the absolute ' Best of the Best '!

One of the best aspects of the ride, however, was that I never had to worry about any kind of mechanical breakdown, as they drove a support vehicle van with plenty of tools and spare parts, not that they were ever needed. At the end of the ride, I simply returned the motorcycle for THEM to clean and service.

Also, I...didn't have to worry about making any hotel reservations, didn't have to worry about what great places we were going to eat at next, didn't have to worry about anything. In fact, my only daily chore was to recharge my camera battery, and have the absolute time of my life.

Living near Los Angeles, there's always a traffic jam somewhere. Traffic light after traffic jam, after traffic light. Then, there's our Alaska tour. I often times rode for over 100 miles without seeing a single traffic light...and never a traffic jam!

If you LOVE the Great Outdoors as much as you enjoy riding motorcycles, all within the most stress free environment you can imagine, then MotoQuest is your ride, for an unforgettable adventure.

Respectfully, Joe Bradley

Karl's Custom Japan Odyssey

Sun, 09 Sep 2012 19:42:15 -0800

Note: All Photos from this trip can be found HERE

36415 minus about 700km= 35715km starting point.

Day 1 20th

Okayama-amanohashidate

After packing the bikes with the helpful hand of Chie, we set off under a sky threatening to open,
but yet to do so. After a colourful few minutes getting used to our new rides, we enter the highway
for a beautiful ride though the countryside through endless tunnels and massive bridges offering
outstanding views of the valleys far below. The one heavy downfall of rain on the radar had its eyes
set on disturbing our ride and after 20 minutes of a downpour, finally forced a brief stop inside a tunnel
for a gear change. However, in an evil twist of fate that could only be perpetrated by the riding gods
themselves, the deluge disappeared moments after, leaving us sweltering in our newly added riding
gear. Furthering the joke, upon arriving at our first destination, Himeji Castle, the gods continued their
prank by having it be closed for the next decade while restoration work takes place. Pushing north in
search of the terrific riding which awaits, the riding gods continue to aspire against us, forcing another
deluge upon us and a second gear change. Not willing to let them better us, we alter our route, push on
and break free. Rivers now run near there cresting point, mist shrouds the perpetual mountains we ride
through and the traffic fades away, creating a lasting image of what nature in Japan truly represents.
Continuing that theme upon our arrival in Amanohashidate is the gracious reception of our hosts at the
Minshuku where we have booked ourselves for the evening. Despite arriving late for dinner and holding
up our hosts schedule, they quickly note our soaked appearance and make efforts to see to our well
being, hand-drying our baggage and offering to move dinner to an even later time to allow us to clean
ourselves.

When feeding time finally arrives, our riders are quickly overwhelmed by the large amount of
food served to them and proceed to beg forgiveness for leaving so much uneaten. It was suspicious
however that all of the sake seemed not to be wasted. After hanging gear to dry overnight, sleep
quickly came to all of us.

Day 2

Seemingly moments later, but closer to 10 hours, we were aroused by the call of breakfast
which also proceeded to overwhelm us with its colossal size. Even without the appearance of beer and
sake, much was left uneaten again, much to our shame as it was so ornately prepared.

A morning walk around the small village, visiting the sandbar which draws people from afar,
displayed older style Japanese buildings also. Topped off with a highlight trip up the nearby mountain
on a single seat chairlift to the viewing area which displays the true meaning of Amanohashidate. Called
The Bridge to Heaven for the sandbar’s appearance when viewed between one’s legs, all were struck by
the area’s beauty.

After loading up and hitting the road, the morning had disappeared and haste needed to be
made to make our evening accommodation, a splendid ryokan with a natural onsen and beautiful view
over a fresh water lake with mountains towering over it. The riding gods, obviously feeling that our
riders were worthy after testing their mettle the previous day, allowed the sun to shine. A quick jaunt
on the highway sped things up immensely and introduced our new riders to the art of passing on the
shoulder. Unlike many roads, Japanese do not have a gravel edge and build the shoulder to the same
quality of the main road as it also serves as the emergency lane. From the newly built highway, the
immaculate riding conditions provided numerous views of rising mountains, tunnels and valleys filled
with traditional Japanese homes surrounded by the lush green of multiple tiered rice paddies.

After exiting in the town of Obama at the end of the expressway, our riders were introduced to
what is a roadside stop, which the Japanese do quite well. Since Obama’s election in 2008, his image
has been plastered thoughtout this area and we quickly encounter a life size cardboard cutout image of
him and souviers of him for sale. While consuming our fruit smoothies to bring down the temperature a
little, a gaggle of young Japanese girls enter and proceed to pose it the cutest possible way with the
cutout for pictures, eliciting smiles all around.

Nearly 4pm, we push onward to get to the ryokan to enjoy it’s pleasures. After a few mintues of
slow, hot town riding, the road opens up to sweeping views over the ocean, displaying the endless
oyster farms and perfectly engineered curves leading to our freshwater destination. However, new
highway construction has removed our planned road to the ryokan and a secondary choice was taken,
introducing our riders to the art of maneuvering through a 1 meter wide road, designed for two way
traffic. Dodging hanging spiders, vines and the occasional branch, we emerge at our final desination.
Entering through the huge traditional gates, we are steered to parking our bikes under the main
entranace and little old ladies scurry out to assist us with our luggage. However, far to heavy for them
to carry, disappointment is seen in their eyes as they believe they have failed to do their job. A quick
compromise is reached to enable them to save face and they happily carry jackets, tankbags and
helmets inside.

After the previous day’s stay left us unable to consume all put in front of us, pleading with the
staff reduced the amount of food served to us at dinner by half, which still remained plenty. In addition,
other guests who had been fishing just before dinner had their caught bass given to the kitchen, and all
quests were able to enjoy 5 minute old sashimi as a result. It simply will never get fresher.

After a hot day riding, the onsen, offering views of a stunning sunset out over the mountains
and lake and a fridge filled with beer and sake quickly helped rid the muscle aches accumulated over the
day. Sleep came quickly to all.

Day 3 july 22nd

After enjoying the last few minutes of the serine calmness of the ryokan, and a few obligatory
pictures with the staff at the majestic front gates, we hit the road under sunny skies just shy of 11am.

Only minutes into our ride, we encounter one of the numerous hawks in the area feeding on the road.
Having been challenged by them on previous rides, there were a few nervous moments where the hawk
decided it was a fight or flight situation. Thankfully, he chose flight and we were able to enjoy some
close views of one of Japan’s great predators. A brief gasoline stop introduced our riders to a Japanese
style gas station where there are no pumps on the ground. Rather, they are housed in the back and
hoses descend from the overhanging roof and the amount is tracked on digital boards above the door
entrance. Hours of coastal riding along perfectly manicured roads offering stunning views out over the
sea of Japan followed. While roughly the same size as England, Japan possesses twice the coastline and
makes great use of it by putting roads along much of it. Attempting to make Takayama, a lengthy ride
already impeded by a late start and hours of twisty coastal roads, which, which terrific, don’t allow us to
make much time, the highway again become our only option. After an 80km ride, the bill was
surprisingly only 800 yen, a far cry from years past when one could expect five or six times more. As
Japan is attempting to promote more tourism in the countryside, road tolls have been drastically
reduced, much to our pleasure.

After pulling into Kanazawa at 3pm, home to a castle by the same name and the famous
Kenroku Garden, one of the three most beautiful in Japan, hard decisions needed to be made about the
day’s destination. Deciding to enjoy the magnificent sights these two attractions offer, Kanazawa
quickly became the evening’s final stop. After a few hours perusing the best Garden Japan has ever
constructed and the ruins of Kanazawa castle with its imposing rock walls we clean up at the hotel and
enjoy dinner in one of Kanazawa’s entertainment districts. Emerging full and exhausted, we are
thankfully greeted by cool evening air, our first break from the repressive heat and humidity we’ve been
exposed to so far.

Day 4 july 23rd

Up and away at the crack of 10:30, we head south out of Kanazawa with visions of Japan’s major
mountains dancing in our heads. Two hours of winding roads thrust us deep into the mountains before
dropping us into 50km of gorge, the road gracefully following a river with walls of green rising sharply
all around us. As noon approached, we came to our mid-day destination, Shirakawa, home to Japan’s
world heritage thatched roof houses. A few hours of perusing the village of Ogimachi followed, offering
views of the meter-plus thick grass roofs, steeply built to allow the heavy snowfalls the area receives
to fall off. Lunch, with beautifully marbled Hida beef as the centerpiece was washed down by unique
flavours of ice cream that could only be found in Japan, such as soy bean, soda water and soba noodles.
With the best riding now awaiting us, we head east, planning to crest the first of Japan’s three great
mountain ranges. Fate, however, quickly intervened in the form of construction workers tolling behind
a sign informing us that construction would begin today. A few sweet words prodded them to let us
past and so began 20 minutes of curves, climbing and stunning views over the valley floor far below.
Just when it appeared that that we had carried the gods favour, they clearly reminded us who is in
charge by presenting us with a 4 meter deep construction hole and a determined construction crew
chief who was in no mood for attempts to appeal to his compassionate side. Although, ultimately

a failure, all agreed the ride up and back was clearly worth the futile hour spent pursuing it. Riding
perfection was quickly replaced with freeway riding and countless tunnels to enable us to reach our
sleeping quarters in Takayama for the evening. All was not lost as the end of the day was still met with a
tempura dinner and beautifully frosted Sapporo draft beer.

Depart at 10:45am, shirakawa at 12:30, arrive at 6pm ish at Takayama.

Day 5 july 24th

Finally, a day off the bikes for our riders to relax from the hectic pace of a new town every
night and Takayama is just the place for it. Nestled in a valley with mountains surrounding it on all
sides, Takayama contains the amenities of a large city, but with a small town feel. One of the only cities
in Japan not flattened during the war, much of its original charm remains. Breakfast is found at the
morning market, along with more coffee that a person could safely consume. Followed by a leisurely
stroll around the old district containing endless amounts of traditional Japanese houses.

Lunch presents us with the opportunity to consume more of the famous Hida beef, with its
wonderfully marbled appearance and succulent taste. Not until one spends a little time at Takayama’s
main train station does one realize just how country this city of one-hundred thousand is. With only one
local train per hour and ticket gates manned by an actual person, it slowly dawns on our riders.
Followed by a single car train where the conductor is also the ticket taker at smaller stations. Combined
with a lovely ride through the countryside, a true old world idyllic scene is created. However, upon
arriving at our remote destination, this vision suffers a setback as taxis required to take us to our
afternoon destination are nowhere to be found. A quick retreat is beaten back to Takayama and the
walking path in the Eastern mountain area through cedar forests holding temples, shrines and
cemeteries act as a terrific substitute. Followed by a terrific, REAL beer burger for dinner, our relaxing
day is complete.

After ordering a beautiful local beer, I inquire as to the taste of this relatively new wonder to
the waitress. Clearly confused by why such a person would ask such a question, she delicately turns her
head sideways and responds with a straight face “it’s beer flavour”. Duh!!! What didn’t I know that?!!!

Day 6 (July 25th)

Our earliest departure yet, 9:30! We head east out of town towards the scenic mountain area
known as Kamikochi. We again enjoy small, twisty mountain roads leading us into the next range and
delight in the 10 consecutive switchbacks leading to the base of Kamikochi. As private vehicles are
forbidden to enter, we grab a taxi into the park and proceed to enjoy 3 hours of leisurely strolling on
walking paths with stunning views of mountains rising before us with a perfectly clear (and freezing)
mountain river rushing past. A lunch of local fried chicken with views of the mountainous background
and the Kappa bridge cap off our time at Kamikochi and all quickly fall asleep on the 20 minute return
taxi ride. While the weather has fortunately held in the notoriously fickle Nagano mountains, our riders
pay the price as we remain stuck behind the gaggle of tour buses trying to navigate the sharply twisting
and descending road to Matsumoto. However, in an olive branch from the riding gods, it does provide
ample time to enjoy the views of the stunning gorges we are riding along. Within the hour, we reach
our hotel near Matsumoto station and settle in for the evening.

9:30am departure, 36415 to 36520km, 95km total. Arrive at 5pm

Day 7 July 26th

After a quick breakfast under the watchful eyes of two high school soccer teams also
staying at the hotel, we head out to walk the ground of Matsumoto castle. Ascending to the 6 th floor
inside the imposing proves a challenge with staircases boasting both incredible steep angles and huge
individual stairs. The view from a top was well worth the struggle. By 12:30, we have departed, heading
for the onsen resort town of Kusatsu, 1200 meters above sea level nestled in the mountains of Gunma
prefecture. While the weather was again in our favour, the gods chose balance in the universe by
plaguing us with traffic along our glorious routes. A quick lunch in a remote countryside restaurant and
quickly on to Kusatsu, to enjoy the town and its numerous onsens. The centerpiece of the town is the
near boiling water which comes up in the middle of town at about 90 degrees. It’s run over long wood
tubes to cool it before being sent to nearby onsens for bathing consumption. The sight itself is the
town’s main attraction and both quite a sight, and smell to witness. Guests are encouraged to walk
around the town centre in their yukata’s. As Kusatsu is 1200 meters above sea-level, high in the
mountains of Nagano, the temperatures are tamed from the perpetual heat at lower elevations
traditionally found during the Japanese summer and we all enjoy the relief.

Day 8, July 27th

Having enjoyed the first night so much, we quickly decide to extend the stay at Kusatsu to two
days. During breakfast, it has become clear that it is time to introduce our guests to Japanese Natto.
The father-daughter team quickly demonstrates their experience in life as the father quickly eyes up the
sealed natto package suspiciously and politely declines. Having been around the block, he is aware that
food that has to be sealed, is done so for good reason. However, the daughter is much more easily
convinced that it is an experience not to be missed and agrees to partake in sampling it. As she removes
the seal from the fermented soybeans, her enthusiasm quickly disappears as the smell hits her nose and
she quickly understands why her father has a devious smile on his face. She bravely puts on a smile for
the camera, but it too quickly fades as she begins to stir the sticky mess and more of its lovely aroma
reaches her sensitive beak. As the natto hits her tongue, all attempts at bravery are completely
abandoned and replaced with a cringing face and the initiation of the gag reflex. Even when mixed with
the hot mustard and sauce which accompany it to help mitigate the smell and flavour, the results don’t
change and a second bite is abandoned, much to the delight of onlooking Japanese whose belief that
foreigners can’t eat natto is upheld, and thus their nation safe for another day.

With the morning festivities are over, it’s decided to have a leisurely half day on some of the
spectacular mountain roads found in Gunma and Nagano and accompany it with a mid-day stop to see
the famous onsen bathing monkeys. We set off on the Shiga-Kogen route, which houses 90 minutes of
some of the most beautiful riding Japan has to offer. We are taken from cedar forests, past sulfur vents

to the dwarf bamboo laden plateau, offering views over the seemingly never-ending Japanese alps, all
on roads immaculately maintained with no gravel on its edges and possessing some of the best curves a
rider could ask for. Despite it being tourist season and the road containing some traffic, many vehicles
pull over and wave us past, understanding the motivation behind riding this road on a motorcycle.
Japan, with its four major motorcycle manufactures, certainly understands and embraces motorcycle
culture and all drivers contribute a little to ensure it can be enjoyed.

After catching our breath, we ride up to the Monkey park on a road so narrow that two
motorcycles would struggle to pass each other. A brief walk takes us into an area where 160 Japanese
Macaqua monkeys reside. We spend the next hour watching them eat, bath and fight. As spring has
just passed, many female monkeys are in the possession of a child, and very protective of them, making
for numerous interesting interactions. Having long become accustomed to humans, they completely
ignore the 10 people taking their pictures and invading their territory, even walking casually between
people’s legs.

After a quick lunch break overlooking some of the former Olympic venues, we are again beset
upon by the riding gods. Having given us a day, they then take ith away and impose a broken clutch
cable upon us, ending our day and denying our ride back to Kusatsu. Our hotel quickly dispatches a
vehicle to pick up our riders and take them back to the healing waters of Kusatsu for solice. After a few
phone calls, the insurance company has a truck arrive to whisk away our damaged bike. However, being
so deep in the mountains, while produced terrific roads such as we are riding, also means that the area
is devoid of a suitable repair shop as the local population is too small to sustain it. So, our bike ends up
at a shop nearly 2 hours from our breakdown site.

After accompanying the bike to the shop and discussing repairs with the mechanic, we learn the
part won’t be in until the next day’s afternoon, thus jeopardizing the next two days plans. Arriving back
at the hotel at close to 8pm, long past darkness in Japan, who doesn’t use daylight savings, I am greeted
by an uplifting event. The hotel where we are staying is putting on a Taiko drum demonstration, and I
am just in time to catch it. Although now 3 hours after the end of dinner time, the staff insists I eat and
opens a restaurant solely for yours truly and in true Japanese hospitality, supplies me with free beer to
wash down the nearly 20 dishes I am presented with.

Day 9, July 28th

Today presents some challenges as our rider’s one request was to visit Nikko and today was
designed to be an early arrival there to enjoy the world heritage temples that is possesses. But, without
a bike, alternate arrangements need to be make. It’s decided a rental car is the solution and by 10am
we set off with it and our one remaining working bike. As our route takes us past the bike shop, we stop
in about 1pm to find it repaired, much to our surprise. Having only 2 riders and 3 vehicles, we have to
continue on and travel over the mountains down the 46 curves leading to Nikko. With our riders settled
in their accommodation, they set off to explore Nikko while I make the return trip to retrieve our bike
and return the car. Arriving at the bike shop at its 7pm closing time, the owner, who lives above the
shop, agrees to come down and open the shop for me later in the evening to get my bike back, despite
the late hour.

After dropping off the car and taking a brisk cab ride to catch the final train of the evening at
8:30, I am met with a station attendant who tells me the trains have been stopped due to heavy rain.
They arrange a taxi which gets me back to the mechanic’s at 11pm. He graciously comes down to open
the shop for me. Setting off on the 3 hour ride, I am quickly met by an additional challenge as both rain
begin to pour down and I am nearly out of gas. In the mountains of Nagano, gas stations close early,
usually by 7pm and the prospect of finding one seems grim, as does some emergency accommodation!
After a few inquiries, I am able to fuel up and get a 100 yen pair of rainpants. The night ride to Nikko is
pleasant as the stars are out and the temperature, even on top of the plateau, is in the low 20’s. Along
the way, the night brings out the local creatures and deer, rabbits and raccoons dot my route. After
arriving at 2am, the elderly owner of our small bed and breakfast rises and comes out to let me in.

Day 10, July 29th

A short night is followed by strong coffee early in the am. It’s getaway day for the youngest
member of our group who is being forced to return to the real world and will fly out of Narita later
today. After putting her on the bus to the airport we saddle up and head north as two. With great
weather and more of the Japanese alps wonderful roads, it appears that the gods have vetted our
riders, deemed them fit and finally lifted their daily trials. However, it was not to be and they thrust a
downpour upon us which eventually forces us to slide into the hotel and it’s welcoming hot baths early.

Day 11, July 30th

Starting at 37101km

Up and out the door gives us two hours of terrific, twisty riding and leads us to a large
freshwater lake which provides a scenic place for a mid-morning break. Leading onward, Ura-bandai
lies in front of us. A motorcycle’s paradise with its endless twisty roads on top of the plateau. All this
leads to the Mt. Zao area and its “iron pot” caldera. Notoriously fickle about showing itself as it resides
so high up in altitude, we strike gold as the weather is clear and she bares her wares for us. With this
sight as a sign and being so late in the day now, it’s clear we will avoid the gods wrath finally. Alas,
within minutes of these thoughts improperly creeping into our heads, they hurl a thunderbolt at us,
literally. They tease us by allowing us onto our bikes before unleashing a thunder and lightning storm
with another deluge of rain. We scamper for shelter in the office of the nearest building with nowhere
to gain protection for our steeds. After cleaning up, we decide to wait it out, only to have the building
staff inform us that they are closing in 20 minutes. But, holding out to the last minute with the staff
politely ushering us out into the driving rain seems to work, and just at the moment the building closes,
the rain ceases and we are allowed a pleasant ride into Sendai the remainder of the way.

Day 12, July 31st

Starting at 37396km

Knowing that the afternoon will be spent in the tsunami affected area, and most likely a bit of a
heavy trip emotionally, we decide to start the day off with something uplifting. A visit to a 1200 year old
temple complex housing caves that ancient Buddhist monks caved out to sit in an contemplate the
meaning of life in. Inside of these moss covered wonders sits numerous Buddhist statutes, lying in the
same place for centuries. The complex also boasts the freshly restored mausoleum of the former
ruler’s, which is spectacular in beauty. Topping it off is a museum housing artifacts recovered from the
area including scrolls, screens and numerous pieces of pottery. All are in incredible condition.

After a brisk lunch of local muscles, deep fried as only the Japanese can, we move Eastward
around the fabled Matsushima Bay with its countless pine tree covered islands, long the inspiration of
poets for because of its beauty. On the outskirts of Ishinomaki, we start to see signs of what could be
Tsunami damage, but it could also simply be a run-down area. As this area is protected behind a 100
kilometer peninsula jutting south, it doesn’t seem plausible that the Tsunami would reach this area with
any force. All doubt is removed after we stop for gas and have a chat with the attendants who tell us
not only did the water reach them at the station, which lies 500 meters away from a heavily fortified
shoreline, but it came to the top of their station roof, three meters above the ground!

After crossing the root of the peninsula, we come to the first openly exposed area to the Pacific
ocean and are startled by what we see. At first, we barely even notice the damage as it appears just to
be an open area with lots of grass growing. But, we quickly begin to notice the barren roads which run
through these grassy areas. After gaining an elevated view, all is laid before us and the force of the
water quickly becomes evident. Nothing remains in this city. The water has removed everything and
sucked it back out to sea. All the debris has been removed and all that remains are the concrete
foundations where homes and businesses used to be. It resembles a new sub-division under
construction, where the electric and road infrastructure is put in first, and awaits the construction of
new homes. The area looks very similar to the images I saw when visiting Nagasaki and Hiroshima in
that absolutely nothing remains except the tangled wreck of a few buildings yet to be hauled away.

Also quickly coming to our attention is our ability to navigate this former city. All signs and
landmarks and some actually roads, that we would normally use to maneuver through a city are gone,
replaced with a view handwritten signs, but offering very little information. Fortunately, my experience
in the area and Japanese ability kicks in and we make our way northward up the coast, continually
encountering barren patches of land that used to be villages. It is a somber day.

Day 13, August 1st

Starting at 37587km

With no accommodation available along the coast, as most of it no longer exists and the
remaining portion is consumed by the masses of reconstruction workers who are now the only
inhabitants of the area, we were forced to return inland last night to procure some. While highly
inefficient, it is the only way to travel at the moment and an hour is spent returning to the coast. We
begin in the former town of Ritsuzentakata, which became well known for its losses. While having a 10
meter high tsunami wall along its shoreline for just such a disaster, its electronic closing mechanism

failed and the local firemen rushed to close it manually, but could not do so in time and all perished.
Upon arriving, we are again met with a vast openness. With not a single house and only a handful of
reinforced concrete buildings remaining, little tells that people existed here. Only the massive mounds
of material, separated into steel, wood and various other matter, give hints as to the city that used to
exist here. Again, barren roads and electrical poles are all that dot the landscape, along with an out-of-
place vending machine, standing in the midst of nothing. We visit what was the downtown area and the
massive sea wall that had been the town’s protection. Even now, near high tide, it rises more than 4
meters above the water level and is hard to believe that water was able to crest it. It also becomes clear
while walking along parts of it that once the water had pushed inland and finally began to be sucked
back out to sea, that it had been able to get underneath the massive concrete structure and destroy the
wall. Enormous sections of the former wall now dot the immediate shoreline as witness to the water’s
unstoppable strength.

Along our travels, we encounter a Japanese researcher who explains to us he has been travelling
north up the shoreline, taking samples of sea life to see what has returned and what impact the nuclear
disaster has had upon them.

As we need to consume much time travelling to the coast in the morning and back inland in the
evening for accommodation, we push onward, going north up the coast. We are met with identical
scenes at virtually every cove, areas wiped clean with only mounds of rubble and home foundations
serving as evidence that life existed. We come across one such cove which had a naturally elevated road
and we stop to take a picture. An elderly woman in her house, mere feet from the road, leans out her
open living room window and strikes up a conversation, noting our interest in the scene below. She tells
us that while the water came up to the road, it did not breach it. She describes the scene and how
everyone ran to the staircase next to her house to escape the water. When pushed for information
about what existed below, she surprisingly says nothing. The town had the foresight 8 years ago after a
previous tsunami scare to abandon the lower portion of the village and move to higher ground. Very
few were lost comparable to other villages of comparable size.

Day 14, August 2nd

Starting at 37818km

After two days making slow progress going out to the coast and back to see the tsunami
damage, we need to put some kilometers under our tires to get to our destination tonight, the opening
night of the Aomori Nebuta Festival. After a spirited batch of highway riding, we head hop off and head
for the glorious roads and spectacular views on top of the Hachimantai plateau. Accompanied by the
traditional millions of dragonflies and drawf bamboo found above 1000 meteres, we zip across the top
of the mountain, enjoying the views that 1600 meters of elevation provides. Upon descending, we head
for lake Towada, small natural lake possessing beautiful views and a depth of over 300 meters. After a
brief lunch in the quaint little town on the lakeshore, we chose to brave the Oirase road, home to a
lovely stream with attractive rapids, numerous waterfalls and virtually every 65 year old woman in Japan
admiring and clogging the already small road. Several hours of twisty roads eventually spites us out of
the mountains and onto the plateau housing the city of Aomori.

After freshening up, we grab a cab and head for downtown, wanting to arrive early so to
procure a prime seat location. As we arrive, the police are beginning to shut down the streets for the
evening’s parade. We position ourselves strategically and manage to grab a prime seat, only to have the
police move us and everyone else back to where they desire. As no one is really in the mood to do so,
the line retreats very little and the police soon give up knowing the hopelessness of the situation. At
exactly 7:10pm, under perfect skies and a pleasant temperature, thunderous fireworks announce the
beginning of the evening and instantly the sound of piccolos and taiko drums fills the air. Hundreds of
floats, the small based on corporate logos and the large epic battles between samurai and beast, begin
to move down the wide boulevard. The largest of the floats are the most spectacular and the focus of
the festival. Paper wrapped around a wire frame and perfectly evening light underneath tell tales of
Japanese lore. The amount of time needed to both design and create such floats must be incredible as
the detail of them is mind-boggling. Underneath these floats are two dozen young men, who respond to
the crowds’ volume. When they cheer loudly, these youth are driven by their leader to spin the float
and move it almost into the crowd at a rapid speeds. They then kneel the float down in front of the
appreciative crowd for a close-up look. After what seem like only minutes, 8:30 comes and fireworks
again signify the end of the evening.

Day 15, August 3rd

Starting at 38082km

While the previous night’s festival was extraordinary, it is merely the 2 nd best in Japan, with the
most interesting to come tonight. Again, haste need be made to the city of Akita to make it, but time
has to be first allocated to the Iwaki Skyline road. Ascending up Mt. Iwaki, this road boasts 69 perfectly
symmetrical switchbacks within a 3 km distance as the crow flies, a motorcyclist’s dream and
comparable to nothing else in the world. The highway again is the beginning of our day and within 2
hours we lye at the base of it, preparing for the ride of our lives. A mere 10 minutes later, all is over
except the tales and regaining our breath. We are again greeted by our dragonflies at 1600 meters
along with the perpetual, stunning view out over the landscape of Japan.

After a brief “lunch” of cup noodles and apple pie, we push northward to the coast to begin the
last leg of our trip. Hours of coastal riding along sweeping curves boasting lovely views out over the
rugged coastline into the Sea of Japan finally deliver us at our hotel, where we repeat the previous
night’s schedule and head downtown for the Akita Kanto festival, the best the land has to offer. We
grab some reserved seats and sit down to enjoy the evening. But, as the sound of drums and piccolos
again fill the air, the crowd rises to its feet to watch both man and child hoist strong bamboo poles
housing dozens of lanterns, resembling a stalk of rice, high into the air. These contraptions then have
additional lengths added to them and now reach heights nearing 10 meters in the air and easily
weighing over 100 kg. Practicing since childhood, the adult males compete against one another and
proceed to balance them in their palm at first and then moving to their hip, neck, chin, forehead and
anyways else a sufficient ridge can be found. They are surrounded by children who are learning the
trade under guidance of adults and under a smaller lantern load. Occasionally, with the street lined with
hundreds of these rice stalks, they either collide with one another or its operator loses his balance and
they come crashing down, to the gasps of the crowd. With a very early morning ahead of us, we beat a
hasty retreat to the hotel after the festival finishes.

Day 16, August 4th 38370km

The previous evenings festival enjoyment is not without a price, and that debt needs to be paid
this morning. Needing to be on an early ferry more than 300km from our current location, we depart
under a still brightly illuminated full moon at 3am. Pushing a rapid pace on the highway, stopping only
for gas and to see a man about a horse, we arrive on perfectly on time and are able to board for our trip
to Hokkaido where we will join the group tour that will take us around the northern most part of the
Japanese archipelago for the next 10 days. Once we arrive, we realize as bikers that we have gotten the
short end of the stick in terms of loading and unloading priority. We had to be the first on the ferry that
morning, which also usually means you get to be the first off. But, this ferry is geared more towards
cargo traffic than anything and our feeble voices are clearly lost in the wind, we will depart last. Now
pushing 5pm, we press on and at our scheduled stop 60 minutes later, we find a small, local festival
going on. Knowing we have dinner waiting and the responsibility to meet up with the rest of the group
who are waiting patiently for us, we decide to stop only for 1 skewer of pork each and quickly return to
our bikes to fulfil our responsibility. However………. One quickly turns to two, and then 5 and then, we
discover smoked venison lightly dabbed in salt. Mmmmmmm……. We might be here for a while. After
deer, chocolate covered bananas as next followed by the local specality of massive slabs of pork on a 3
foot dwarf bamboo pole, roasted over an open flame. Also consuming additional time was watching the
kakki gori eating contest which is shaved ice covered with various sweet sauces. What looked like a
kilogram of ice was heartily devoured in minutes. Watching people suffer through the ice-headaches
that follow was painful to watch, but amusing at the same time.

Seven pm rolls around, it’s dark and beginning to rain, perfect time to hit the road. Luckily, on a
road without any illumination, we are fortunate to find a well-lit minivan travelling in our direction and
happily ride his tail into Furano an hour later where we join the group for a well-deserved Kampai!!

From Day 17 to 25, we are on the Hokkaido Explore Tour led by Phil Freeman. Please see his blog here

Day 25, aug 13th

Niseko to Sapporo

Day 26, aug 14th

Sapporo- otaru-niigata ferry

Our fellow riders are up early with us in Sapporo to see us off as we all go our separate ways. With the
rest of the group heading home, we still have thousands of kilometers to cover in a short span of time.
As Sapporo quickly disappears in our mirrors, the fishing port town of Otaru rises in front of us and by
10:30am we are stowed aboard for the 20 hour journey to Niigata. As most on this ferry are tourists and

on vacation, unlike the first ferry we embarked on two weeks before, the facilities and type of passenger
lend themselves to a merry atmosphere. Although nowhere near noon yet, many have already begun
their second beer under the sunny skies seeing us off.

day 27, aug 15th

niigata to mito

Disembarking from the ferry at a bright and early 6am, we are quickly met by what seems as already
mid-day heat. A quick jaunt on the highway leads us to one of the best roads the land of the rising sun
has to offer. Boasting both short, tight switchbacks ascending and descending rapidly, wide sweeping
constant radius turns, gorge walls surrounding us and a river running between them, this road seemingly
offers everything and we enjoy several hours of paradise-like riding. As the sun moves overhead, we
decide that to enjoy the Kairaku Gardens in Mito for a sufficient amount of time, we need to speed up
our progress a little. Abandoning the glorious riding, we hop on the highway and deliver ourselves to
Mito an hour later. Housing one of the best replica tea and vacation houses in Japan along with acres of
perfectly manicured green space, Kairaku Garden certainly lives up to its billing as one of the best in the
land.

41903km

day 28, aug 16th

42322km

Mito to Fuji/Mishima

A day we had hoped would never come, the necessity of crossing through Tokyo. With
blistering heat and almost guaranteed traffic congestion looming before us, we haven't been looking
forward to traversing the world's biggest metropolis. Nevertheless, it needs to be done as payment for
viewing yesterday's garden and we quietly get on with it. By early afternoon, we have pushed through
the city known in Japan as the "The Big Mikan" and arrive at our afternoon destination of Kamakura.
After an hour of having our motorcycles rejected at parking lots, we finally find one willing to house us
and set off to view the magnificent Buddhist temples, gardens and statues of the area. After enjoying
the afternoon, we skim along the coast, looking out over the pacific and the thousands of Japanese
beach worshippers who are taking refuge from the summer heat, or embracing it, depending on your
perspective. After the local festival in Mishima forces us to adjust our route, we reach our hotel and
decide that a convenience store dinner is in order given the late hour of our arrival.

Day 29, aug 17th

Fuji to fuji

Today is the day. Fuji-san! We power off from the south side of the volcano. After 2 hours of
riding, the size of our object becomes clear as we have yet to make it to the north entrance. After doing
so, we shot up the twisty road, enjoying terrific views and immaculately maintained roads, only to be
met by 5km of traffic at the top. However, being a motorcyclists has its advantages and we quickly slip
past the hour long line and reach the 5th stage of Fuji. We are greeted by a festive atmosphere, with
thousands of hikers preparing to go up and even more decompressing after having just returned from
the 9 hour hike. However, we are riders, not hikers, so scoff at the foolishness of climbing a mountain
when there are perfectly good motorized vehicles available, and leave the village idiots to pursue their
incomprehensible hobby. As a weather system closes in and the afternoon draws near its end, we hop
on the highway and head back to Mishima, knowing that the local festival awaits us along with the
desirable 'dead food on a stick'.

The festival proves to be as expected, with intricate floats, children playing music with their
parents encouraging them on and the fabled festival food. We encounter a competition of some sort,
with different neighbourhood's children competing against one-another in a musical competition. Held
in the town square, hundreds crowd around and voraciously cheer on their local favourites. Young
women adorn themselves in the traditional summertime outfit of a Yukata, with their hair pinned up
above their head, creating an image maintained for hundreds of years. Young Japanese men however,
chose the image of the drunken village idiot, acting like children and sharply contrast the grace and
elegance of espoused by the young ladies. We stop to take in a 2 piece band, who artfully play to the
crowd of young women who refuse to allow them off the stage, repeatedly pleading for an additional
encore.

42641km

Day 30, Aug 18th

42915

Mishima to ise

An 8am pushoff is followed by several hours of bland riding leading to the ferry terminal at the
tip of the Irago peninsula in Aichi. A brief 50 minute ferry ride lands us in Toba and we quickly make our
way to Mie prefecture's "wedded rocks". At high tide, the single piece of stone appears to be two and a
rice-straw rope links the two, symbolizing a marriage. Only the Japanese could make an otherwise non-
descript rock into a major tourist destination, as a major shopping complex and aquarium also surround
the site.

Having had our fill of romantic stones, we move to the Ise Grand Shrine and spend the next few
hours pursuing the serenity found within. After dropping off our belongings at the hotel and freshening
up, as the sweltering heat requires several times a day, we head to the traditionally preserved area of
Ise. Housing old style Japanese shops with pedestrian only traffic, a bubbly atmosphere contrasts with
the quiet of the Grand Shrine.

Day 31, Aug 19th

43168km

Ise to koya to Nara

A 7am start is called for if we want to properly take in the terrific road of Wakayama's Kii
peninsula. Having rained overnight, our fabric seat is soaked. However, the hotel owner had awoken at
6am, taken off the seat cover, dried it and replaced it all before our riders had awoken. A small example
of Japanese hospitality. After a quick spurt on the highway, we allow the twisty roads to envelope us,
leading us deep into the prefecture. Along the way, we stumble across one of the things that make
Japan unique, it's crazy, obsessed artists. Having transformed nearly an acre of land into a indescribable
monument to insanity, an artist has spent the last 35 years building a park entirely of ceramic tiles and
statutes. Millions of tiles adorn the grounds and after a brief conversation with the creator (as you just
can't talk to crazy that long), we are told he has fired the entire thing in his kiln nearby, dedicated the
last 35 years of his life to it, with no end in sight.

Leaving crazy in the side mirrors, we push deeper into Wakayama, heading for Mt. Koya, the
more revered Buddhist temple complex in Japan. However, while trying to cross a mountain range on
an old logging road, which had fallen into disrepair, we are blocked half-way across as the road has been
closed for construction, for more than a year! With no warning signs at its entrance, it was a frustrating
experience, especially since the road was in such poor condition. With the loss of an hour, we arrive in
Koya in mid-afternoon. The serenity of walking through the thousands of Buddhist headstones helps to
melt away the previous road's imparted frustration. Surrounded by enormous cedar trees, plunging 100
meters straight up into the air, the area has a serine calm which transfers to all in the forest. After
several hours of taking in the sights, it's time to make our final push for the evening towards Nara. After
riding through light showers, construction and a tightly winding road, we arrive exhausted at our
destination and quickly scarf down some sustenance and hit the sheets in preparation for our final day.

Day 32

43498km

Nara to Okayama

An early start to see the world's largest wooden structure, Todaiji, is briefly thwarted by persistant
parking lot attendants, who quickly pounce on us proclaiming that motorcycles are not welcome.
Parking more than a kilometer away, we make for the ancient temple. After wading through a swath of
tame deer, all looking for a food handout, we reach our destination and marvel both at the size of the
structure, but also at how is has been constructed. In addition, the temple houses 3 enormous Buddha
statutes. By 11am, after a brief stop back at the hotel to return a stolen room key, we hit the road on
our final ride, back to Okayama. While unpleasant riding through the hot and humid kansai area, even
at highway speeds, we reach our final destination in a few hours, gas up a final time and enter the air-
conditioned confines of our bike rental shop to decompress. After some cold iced coffee, final packing

and goodbyes are said. After 32 days and more than 8000km, it is over. From Okayama, to Hokkaido
and back again. We've seen the virtually the entire country and defeated every obstacle that the riding
gods tested us with. It is time to finally say sayonara to the land of the rising sun and a hearty arigato
for hosting us.

43743km final

35715km start

Total of 8028km