By James Baxter, NMA President

The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) is the federal government’s lead agency when it come to safety policies and regulations; including speed limits, DUI laws, cell phone and texting bans, federal subsidies for speed traps and roadblocks, and vehicle equipment requirements. This agency was the last entity standing in support of the 55 MPH Speed Limit.

NHTSA is in the process of developing a five year strategic plan and it is asking for public comment on suggestions. You can be assured that every insurance company in the country, MADD, IIHS, Advocates for Highway Safety (more insurance company money), AAA (ditto), police organizations, ticket camera companies, and various “we hate cars” activists will be letting NHTSA how YOUR money should be spent to YOUR disadvantage.

Here’s your chance to express your opinion on where this agency should be placing its priorities. For example, the official NMA response is going to include suggestions like this: Take the money being given to states to fund enforcement binges and instead give it to communities to synchronize their traffic lights. Instead of wasting money on speed enforcement, devote those funds to setting higher, more reasonable speed limits. And, rather than hand out money for ticket cameras use those same funds to systematically implement realistic yellow light intervals and correct other intersection engineering flaws.

These agencies always claim they are doing the public’s bidding. In NHTSA’s case that “public” is more often the corporations and organizations that want to exploit and/or control motorists. Here’s your chance to tell NHTSA where and how you want your tax dollars spent

To have your say, simply click “Submit Comment” on this page.

• The Traveling Public Can Go Elsewhere
• Funding Our Highways
• Reinstating "55," Are They Crazy?!
• Why Don’t Politicians Care About Transportation Issues?
• More Silly Numbers From AAA

By Eric Peters, Automotive Columnist

People are understandably edgy out by the turn the economy’s taken — and trying to avoid unnecessary expenses. When it comes to your vehicle, there are some things you can “cheap out” on to save a few bucks — and other things you should never neglect.

Let’s look at some of both:

CHEAP OUT

Regular unleaded vs. premium

Some cars require premium; others merely recommend it. If you have one of the latter (recommend it) you can save a fistfull of dollars every month by using regular, which is typically 20-30 cents less per gallon.

Caveats: You might not get every last horsepower your engine is capable of delivering — and you might suffer a slight mileage drop that could eat away the “up front” savings at the pump. The loss of a few hp is probably nothing you’ll miss or even notice — but keep track of your gas mileage “with” and “without” premium to see whether the difference is big enough to make going back to premium fuel the smart thing to do. And: if you vehicle requires premium, do not use regular (or even mid-grade). You won’t hurt your engine but your mileage may suffer and power/performance may dip noticeably, too.

Standard tires vs. speed-rated tires

Many late model and new cars are equipped with tires designed for safe high-speed cruising at sustained speeds of 130 mph or more. But unless you drive your car this fast for extended periods, you can often save a good bit of money by going with tires that have a lower speed rating. A standard S (rated for safe sustained speeds up to 112 mph) or T (118 mph) rated tire is certainly adequate for American highways, where few cars drive faster than 80 or 90 mph for extended periods of time.

H-rated (130 mph), V-rated (149 mph) and ultra-performance W (168 mph) and Y-rated (186 mph) tires are arguably overkill on U.S. roads, where such speeds are also ultra-illegal.

You can find out what the speed rating of your tire is by looking at the alphabetical designation on the sidewall. For example, a 225/50HR16 tire is an H-rated tire for a 16-inch rim. This information should also be listed in your vehicle’s owner’s manual. See here for more detailed info about tire ratings.

Caveats: High-speed tires also usually provide better braking and handling performance than standard type tires. That means your car might not corner as well or stop as quickly. However, these losses would likely be encountered and noticeable only under extreme conditions — at “the limit” of the vehicle’s handling/braking abilities. Under normal driving conditions, it’s likely you would never notice the difference. The key thing is to be sure that whatever tire you choose meets the minimum load/heat/traction rating listed by the vehicle manufacturer. So long as they do, you are safe.

Drive-thru washes

They’re convenient, but they are also a huge expense. The typical “basic” wash costs around $12-$14 and most of these joints up-size you with extras such as wheel/tire wash, paint protection/wax and underbody wash. By the time you come out the other end, you could be out more than $20 — and that’s before you tip the attendant who vacuums out the carpets. Do this a couple times a month and you’re tossing close to $500 out every year. Is washing your own car a time-consuming hassle? It certainly can be. But if saving money’s the goal, this is a great way to do it. You can do as good a job or better in your own driveway, for free — or next to free (you do have to buy car wash soap, a bucket and so on) and come out hundreds ahead every year. That’s equivalent to several tank-fulls of “free” gas!

Caveats: This doesn’t mean you shouldn’t wash your car. If you’re physically unable, don’t have the facilities (or just don’t want to deal with it) then going through an automatic wash is still good policy. Regularly removing dirt from the surface of your vehicle will help keep the finish looking good, which will aid re-sale value at trade-in time. And spraying away dirt from wheel-wells and undercarriage areas helps slow the progression of rust, which can shorten the useful life of your vehicle.

DON’T SKIMP

Oil changes (and oil quality)

Cheaping out on either oil changes or the oil itself is probably the most penny-wise and pound-foolish thing you can do to your vehicle. Stretching oil change intervals beyond the recommended maximum time/mileage interval risks accelerated engine wear, reduced fuel efficiency and possibly even a catastrophic failure. Using low-cost (and low-grade) oil that doesn’t meet the minimum API/SAE specifications does the same thing — to a greater extent — and will absolutely void your warranty coverage. You could be left holding the bag for thousands of dollars because you tried to save a few bucks on oil.

It’s especially important to key your oil change intervals to the type of driving you do. Many people go by the maximum intervals touted by the vehicle manufacture — which are touted precisely because they let the automaker make the car seem “low maintenance.” However, the maximum intervals often apply only to cars driven under so-called “normal” operating conditions. And what many of us subject our vehicles to every day — especially stop-and-go driving, short trips, etc. — actually qualifies as “severe” or “heavy-duty” use — and the recommended changeout intervals will be more frequent.

Caveats: In addition to using oil that meets the manufacturer’s recommended minimums, be sure the oil filter you use also meets the manufacturer’s requirements. A below-spec filter can cause problems — and void your warranty — too. Also, if you are a do-it-yourselfer, be sure to keep receipts for all the oil/filters — so that you can prove you used the manufacturer-recommended stuff in case of a warranty claim. If you have your oil changed by a non-dealer be sure they use the right type of oil and filter (and that it is listed on your paperwork). And be sure to check the dipstick yourself after they are done. Some of these quickie-lube places have been known to over or under-fill the crankcase.

Radiator service

“Long life” coolant doesn’t mean forever. It also doesn’t mean it will last as long as advertised, either. It’s really important to periodically check the condition of the coolant in your radiator — or have a competent mechanic check it for you. Contaminated coolant can lead to a gunked-up/ruined radiator — a very expensive part to replace. It can also lead to overheating, which in a modern engine with aluminum cylinder heads, etc. risks catastrophic damage.

Coolant condition should be checked at least every two years, regardless of the advertised “shelf life” of the product that’s in there. It’s also smart to periodically open the radiator cap (engine completely cold!) to check the fill level. You may catch a minor, pinhole-type leak (or perhaps a a larger problem, such as a leaky head gasket) before it gets leave-you-stuck bad.

Caveats: Never, ever fool with a hot radiator! The coolant is more than hot enough to give you serious burns and the stuff is under pressure, too – meaning it can blast you in the face if you remove the cap with the engine hot or even warm. You can check the condition of the coolant itself with a device which you can buy for about $10 at an auto parts store. You can also “eyeball” the coolant for obvious signs of deterioration. Fresh coolant should appear bright green (or orange-red, if it’s the “long-life” type) and translucent, not cloudy. If it looks dirty, it probably is dirty — and probably needs to be changed. And don’t forget: Coolant is lethally poisonous to animals, which may like its taste. Be sure to mop up any spills in your driveway or garage, if you have pets.

Wiper blades

People sometimes neglect to change their vehicle’s windshield wiper blades, which should be replaced as soon as they can no longer clear the glass without streaking. Blades typically last about six months, but sometimes wear out much sooner if subjected to harsh/extreme conditions. Winter driving — and road salt — is especially hard on wiper blades. Obviously, if you can’t see, you can’t drive safely — and no amount of money in your pocket is worth risking wrapping your car around a telephone pole.

Caveats: Don’t forget to regularly check (and top off) your windshield washer reservoir. In heavy usage, you can run dry surprisingly quickly — and even the best/freshest wiper blade can be rendered helpless by a windshield coated with road salt and muck. It’s smart to keep a jug of the stuff in the car, so you can fill up right away instead of having to drive around half-blind, like Mr. Magoo, looking for a gas station or auto parts store.

Comments?
Visit www.epautos.com and click on the red “Forum” button.

• Getting Your Car Ready For Winter
• How To Prepare Your Vehicle For Summer Driving
• Vehicle Maintenance Tips: Extend Your Vehicle’s Life
• 10 Things Everyone Should Know About Tires
• How To Make Your Car Last Forever (Or Close To It)

WMBD/WYZZ TV has the story:

A Chicago traffic camera could cost you hundreds of dollars. It did for Peorian Casandra Davis, who wrote ‘We Hear You’ after getting tickets for something she says she didn’t do. Her ticket charged her $100 for running a red light in Chicago. The only problem is Davis was in Tennessee.

A red-light camera caught a picture of the car in action. The license plates look almost identical, with the exception of one letter. Plus, Davis drives a silver Impala, and the car in the photo is a red Buick.

Surely if she presented the city with proof of their mistake, they would immediately remedy the situation and apologize, right? Maybe not:

Davis says she called Chicago’s Revenue Department and sent proof, but instead of correcting the problem, Chicago increased her ticket to $200. Now Davis is worried she’s driving around with a bad driving record that’s not hers.

As usual, pressure from the media is the only thing that seems to force cities to fix their errors:

After we called the Department of Revenue we got Davis’ ticket overturned. Representatives say they confused some letters on the license plate.

For more information on red light cameras, check out our issue page.

• Red Light Camera Tickets Innocent Driver Yet Again
• Local School Board Wants Ticket Camera Cash
• Red-Light Camera Mistakenly Tickets Soldier Serving In Iraq
• Florida Cities Exploit Legal Loophole For Financial Gain
• Driver Convicted Of Speeding Without Ever Receiving Ticket

How should you dispose of it?

First, you need to get it ready for disposal.

* The best way to transport the oil from your home, via car, is to carefully transfer it from your oil drain catch pan to empty/used gallon jugs – such as leftover household detergent containers, etc. A funnel is helpful for this job, as is a drain pan that has a built-in pour spout. You can even buy a drain pan with a sealable lid and spout designed specifically to make it easier to take the old oil to a recycling station; however these can still be unwieldy for the average person to deal with — especially if they’re really full.

* Be sure the oil is cool before you attempt to transfer it to the empty jugs. Those jugs may melt or burst open if you pour still-hot used oil into them. Screw the cap onto the jug and make absolutely sure it is on tight. For extra security, you can slip the jug into a plastic trash bag and twist that closed with a tie-twist. Get an old cardboard box, put a layer of newspaper down on the bottom. Put the jug in there.

* If you have a truck, the best place to put the oil jug for transport is obviously the bed since if it does leak, it won’t be a disaster. Be sure it’s secure nonetheless (use tie downs or something heavy to keep the jug where you put it; and of course drive gently. If you have to use a car, avoid transporting the oil in the trunk. It is most likely to tip over or roll around as you drive, which could leave you with a foul and pretty much impossible to ever clean-up mess. The ideal place is actually the passenger side floorpan. It should be relatively flat and more important, you’ll be right there to keep an eye on it as you drive.

So, where to actually take the oil?

* One option — probably the simplest for most people — is to to bring the old oil to a gas station that accepts old oil for recycling. These days, some stations charge a small fee for this, so it may be necessary to “shop around” a little. Depending on where you live, there may be pubic recycling bins available for the old oil filter, too.

* Another option (especially if you live in a rural area) is to ask around until you find someone who uses a commercial-type oil-fired stove to heat their place. Car repair shops and other commercial places are likely prospects. These places will be happy to take your old oil for free, because for them, it’s free heat. If you do find such a “source,” consider getting a larger capacity container such as a 5-8 gallon gasoline jug. You can then use this as your old oil depot (it’ll take several oil changes to fill that thing up) and then, once a year (or whenever) you can cart the jug to your friend with the heat stove.

Other fluids:

* Gear oil (such as transmission/axle fluid) is generally ok to dispose of in the same way and mixed in with used motor oil.

* Old engine coolant/automatic transmission fluid should not be mixed with used motor oil if you’re giving it to someone for use in their oil-burning stove. If you’re just hauling this stuff to a gas station pick-up point, it may be ok to mix it all together. But ask first.

Also: Try to limit the amount of oil that gets on your skin and the amount of time it stays in contact with your skin. Old oil (and other such fluids) contains lots of stuff that is not good for your health. Wear gloves – and wash your hands as soon as possible.

And remember that certain fluids — antifreeze in particular — may taste good to animals/pets but can kill them if they lap some of it up. Don’t leave spills unattended — and clean them up as soon as possible. Cat litter, believe it or not, is great for this job.

• Oil Change Essentials
• Car Care: When Can You Afford To Cheap Out?
• Getting Your Car Ready For Winter
• How To Squeeze Every Penny Out Of Your Car
• 10 Things Everyone Should Know About Tires

The city has claimed that the cameras reduced accidents by 34%, but a little fact-checking proved this assertion wrong:

Is it money or safety? We wanted to know actual numbers of accidents at red light camera intersections to see if they really went down.

When we asked, the LAPD became very defensive. The sergeant in charge told me in an e-mail, “The city would hope that it is the goal of KCBS/KCAL to discuss the positive aspects of the photo red light program.”

So we filed a public records request. The department charged us more than $500 for a computer run. When we got the numbers back, they told a different story.

We looked at every accident at every red light camera intersection for six months of data before the cameras were installed and six months after.

The final figures? Twenty of the 32 intersections show accidents up after the cameras were installed! Three remained the same and only nine intersections showed accidents decreasing.

Charging extravagant prices for information requests is a common tactic by cities with ticket camera programs who are trying to hide unfavorable results (one city recently took it one step further and just stopped keeping track once they figured out that accidents were increasing.)

KCAL’s investigation found that several ticket camera intersections in Los Angeles had as many as three times the number of accidents:

At Manchester Avenue and Figueroa Street, accidents more than tripled from five before the cameras were installed to 16 afterwards. Westwood Boulevard and Wilshire Boulevard tripled from three to nine. At Rodeo Road and La Brea Avenue, collisions nearly tripled from seven in the six months before the cameras were installed to 20 in the same period afterwards.

So why did accidents increase at camera-enforced accidents?

“People see the light flash and they slam on their brakes,” [local attorney Sherman] Ellison said. “That’s just human nature. As a result, more accidents, more rear end accidents.”

That’s what happened to Dale Stephens, who knew the yellow light up ahead had a camera.

“Because I had that in the back of my mind I knew I had to stop. And it’s so expensive to get a ticket I knew I had to stop. Well they had no inclination to stop,” Stephens said.

“They” are the two cars that hit him from behind.

David Goldstein: “Do you think the red light camera caused the accident?”

Dale Stephens: “Yes, definitely.”

He’s not alone. Study after study show that red-light cameras can actually cause accidents and some cities are taking notice.

Montclaire, Upland, El Monte and Fullerton all discontinued red-light cameras in part because of accidents. Huntington Beach broke its contract before it even officially began.

“There are quite a few studies out there that will show an increase in rear end accidents in these intersections,” a spokesperson from the Huntington Beach Police said.

Thanks to this investigation, at least one city councilman is considering re-evaluating the red light camera program:

[Los Angeles] Councilman [Dennis] Zine says all accidents should be evaluated. He had been told accidents were down due to the cameras and didn’t know the LAPD was excluding many collisions until I told him.

“If that’s the case, we need to re-evaluate this program if in fact we are having more collisions,” Councilman Zine said.

He says he will take the issue to the City Council because the contract for the cameras is up soon. And if they conclude, as we did, that accidents are up, the red light cameras may soon be coming down.

Thankfully, shutting down ticket camera programs is becoming quite a trend these days.

• Peoria Reevaluates Ticket Camera Program After Accidents Double
• City Recommends More Intersection Collisions
• If It’s Not About The Money, Then Prove It
• Increased Yellow Light Times Make Ticket Cameras Unnecessary
• Red-Light Cameras Increase Accidents: 5 Studies That Prove It

From the archives of TheNewspaper.com, here is a compilation of nine cities that have voted to ban ticket cameras:

1) Chillicothe, Ohio November 2009

In addition to kicking two camera supporters off the city council, 72 percent of those voting in Chillicothe, Ohio approved a total prohibition on the use of red light cameras and speed cameras. Prior to the vote, in order to protect their revenue stream, Redflex Traffic Systems sent a glossy mailer to every voter while the mayor demanded that the Ohio Supreme Court ban the public from even voting on the issue — a move high court justices swiftly rejected.

2) Heath, Ohio November 2009

In Heath, voters were bombarded with the same advertisements from Redflex, but they failed to persuade a majority. Voters also defeated Mayor Richard Waugh who had introduced photo enforcement as the signature issue of his administration.

3) College Station, Texas November 2009

The city’s automated ticketing vendor American Traffic Solutions (ATS) bankrolled a front group to conduct mass mailings and push polling in an effort to save the program that would have earned the company more than $11 million over the life of the contract. The ATS-funded group reported raising $71,240 in contributions, but not one dollar came from anyone living in the local community. To supplement the vendor’s effort, the city allocated taxpayer money to send red light camera promotional material to every voter. Despite all this, local citizens still voted to get rid of the cameras.

4) Sulphur, Louisiana April 2009

In a special election, the Southern Louisiana city of 22,000 overwhelmingly rejected photo enforcement. Asked, “Shall Ordinance No. 873, M-C Series adopting automated speed enforcement for the City of Sulphur, Louisiana, be repealed?” eighty-six percent of voters said “Yes.”

5) Cinncinnati, Ohio November 2008

The residents of Cincinnati, Ohio made it clear that photo enforcement is not welcome in the city. A majority of voters approved an amendment to the city charter prohibiting local officials from ever installing either red light cameras or speed cameras. Cincinnati city council members had been trying for the past four years to install the devices that promised to generate between $2 million and $12 million in annual revenue. Advocates were stopped in 2005 when former Mayor Charlie Luken vetoed a camera ordinance saying, “Let’s be honest with the public — we didn’t think about this until we came up with a budget problem.”

6) Steubenville, Ohio November 2006

An overwhelming majority of voters in Steubenville, Ohio rejected the city’s speed camera program in a referendum on whether the city ordinance authorizing the program should stand. With all precincts reporting, 76.2 percent of voters said “no.” The program began in 2005 issuing nearly 7000 tickets worth $85 each to motorists driving as little as 5 MPH over the speed limit.

7) Anchorage, Alaska April 1996

Faced with the overwhelming public and legal backlash, the Anchorage Assembly voted to stop using photo radar on the program’s one-year anniversary on March 13, 1997. That concession was not enough for local activist Alex Gimarc who warned that nothing would stop city leaders from coming back and installing red light cameras and speed cameras at some point in the future. Gimarc led the effort to gather 12,000 signatures to place a referendum on the April 15, 1996 city ballot — far more than the 6958 signatures required. A strong majority approved Proposition Three which amended the city charter to require human police officers to issue traffic citations, effectively banning photo radar.

8) Batavia, Illinois March 1992

On March 17, 1992, two-thirds of eligible voters showed up at the polls to answer the question: “Should the City of Batavia use photo-radar devices to photograph motor vehicles and/or drivers for the purpose of enforcing speed limits?” A total of 63.3 percent said no; just 36.7 said yes. Voters sent a second message as David Waters — the primary proponent of the cameras — met with a crushing defeat in the Republican primary at the hands of Douglas Weigand.

9) Peoria, Arizona March 1991

In 1991, the group Citizens Against Speed Traps formed in Peoria to battle a then-new program that mailed automated speeding tickets on the streets of the Phoenix suburb. The group succeeded in gathering enough signatures on a petition that, less than a year after the cameras were first activated, voters were given the choice of whether to accept or reject photo radar. On March 19, 1991, the claims of Peoria officials that the program was popular turned out to be unfounded — photo ticketing lost in the referendum by a two-to-one margin.

The next time you see a news story claiming widespread public support for ticket cameras, just remember this fact:

Ticket cameras have never survived a public vote.

That’s why the ticket camera companies fight so hard (and spend so much money) to stop citizens from having their say.

Please pass this article on to your friends. Share it online, reprint it, spread the word.

• The Real Reason Ken Livingstone Lost
• Ticket Cameras May Be Used To Enforce Text Messaging Laws
• Ticket Camera Scams Are Plentiful In The D.C. Area
• Majority Of Speed Camera Photos In Arizona Are Unusable
• City Of Scottsdale, Arizona Lies To Drivers To Get Their Money

The speed cameras were authorized six months ago after intensive lobbying efforts by the ticket camera industry. The legislature knew that the driving public would not approve of speed cameras being allowed on all roads so they included a provision that the cameras could only be used within a half mile of a school zone as a way to combat opposition.

The city of Baltimore has decided to exploit a loophole in the legislation and is creating new school zones to allow speed cameras to be installed. TheNewspaper.com explains:

The city’s plan is to take a number of roads that are within the legally required distance to a school but are in areas where children do not regularly walk. Baltimore will install “school zone” signs on these roads for the sole purpose of meeting the legal requirement that the speed cameras be used only in a school zone. The new zones include Charles Street at Lake Avenue, Northern Parkway at Greenspring, Pulaski Highway at Monument Street and Roland Avenue at West Cold Spring.

Baltimore is not alone. In New Carrollton, two of the five proposed speed camera locations were not in actual, existing school zones.

“Speaking as a parent of two small children myself,” the editor of StopBigBrotherMD.org wrote, “if these were legitimate locations for school zones we might ask why public officials put the safety of children at risk by not bothering to do the inexpensive bare minimum step of marking the locations as school zones and alerting drivers to the presence of a school nearby… until there was a revenue motive for doing so.”

The city’s greed will also have negative long-term effects on school zone safety in the state. Once drivers figure out that these fake school zones never have any children near them, they are likely to begin ignoring them. Eventually this will lead to drivers having less respect for legitimate school zones in the area.

• School Is Never Out For Speed Cameras
• Speed Limit Signs Used To Research Speed Enforcement
• The Truth About Speed Cameras: They Don’t Work
• Ticket Camera Scams Are Plentiful In The D.C. Area
• What Should Cities Do If 90% Of Drivers Exceed The Speed Limit?

By Eric Peters, Automotive Columnist

Almost everyone will, at some point in their lives, have to deal with a car that won’t start because of a weak or dead battery. Jump-starting a car is simple but a few cautions should be observed:

1) Look under the hoods of both cars; pull the car with the good battery as close to the car with the dead battery as possible without the cars physically touching.

2) Put both vehicles in Park, depress the parking brake, shut off the engine (jumper car), turn the ignition switch to “off” for both cars and disconnect any plug-in accessories such as cell phones, iPods or radar detectors. The reason for this is to prevent current draw to accessories, which will make the car harder to start – and to protect accessories from possible power spikes through the system during the jump-starting process.

3) Inspect both batteries for signs of physical damage, in particular, cracks in the case and/or leaking fluid. If you see either, forget about jumping and call a tow truck. Attempting to jump-start a leaking battery could result in a catastrophic explosion resulting from sparks igniting volatile gasses escaping from the battery.

4) Locate the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on each battery. Each terminal is usually marked with a stamped-in “+” or “-” sign, or a red plastic cap (positive) and black plastic cap (negative). As a further identification aid, the positive terminal usually has a red cable leading to it while the negative cable is usually black. Be 100 percent sure which terminal is positive and which terminal is negative before proceeding. If you have any doubt at all, do not connect jumper cables. Call AAA or another towing service. Better to risk a little inconvenience than a possible explosion/fire or severe damage to your car’s electrical system.

5) Use a rag or paper towel or whatever is handy to clean off the exposed surfaces of the terminals. This will help assure a good connection and a successful jump.

6) Get your jumper cables. These should be in good physical shape, with the positive and negative clamps on each end clearly marked (red for positive, black for negative). Check for damaged insulation/frayed wires before proceeding. If the cables are damaged, find a better set or call AAA. Once again, you don’t want to risk a major problem over a relatively trivial inconvenience.

7) Assuming the cables check out ok, have one person hold one end – making sure to keep the positive and negative clamps from touching.

8) First, connect one red/positive clamp of the jumper cables to the red/positive terminal of the dead battery. Next, connect the other end of the red/positive jumper cable clamp to the red/positive terminal of the good battery.

9) Second, connect one end of the jumper cable’s black/negative clamps to the negative terminal of the good battery.

10) Finally, connect the remaining black/negative jumper cable clamp to a “ground” on the car to be jump-started. A “ground” is a metallic/unpainted part of the engine or frame/chassis. An accessory bracket or large bolt usually works well. The reason for connecting the negative cable to ground rather than to the negative terminal of the dead battery is to minimize the chances of a spark near the battery, where there may be potentially explosive gasses. If the dome/interior light comes on in the car to be jumped, it’s a good sign the cables are connected correctly.

11) Start the engine of the car with the good battery and raise the engine rpm to a fast idle (about 1,500 rpm, if the car has a tachometer). Run the engine for about five minutes, then shut if off. Disconnect the cables and attempt to start the car with the bad battery. For the first attempt, do not try to start the car with the dead battery while the jumper car’s engine is running and the cables are still connected. Reason? It’s possible the strain on the jumper car’s alternator could cause damage or excess wear. If the car to be jumped is slow to crank or doesn’t want to start, don’t keep cranking the starter; this will only further weaken the battery.

12) If the car won’t start using the above method, reconnect the cables as described, start the car with the good battery (being sure to turn off the headlights, which will draw power you need for maximum boost) and let it idle again for a couple of minutes. Now try to start the car with the dead battery. You may need to rev the engine of the jumper car a bit, especially if the other car’s battery is really dead and it’s really cold outside.

13 Once the car starts, remove the cables in the reverse order you hooked them up, beginning with the black ground cable.
Be super careful that the clamps don’t accidentally touch as you do this.

14) Do not shut off the engine of the car that was jump-started for at least 10-15 minutes (which will give the car’s alternator time to recharge the battery) and ideally, not until you get home or to a safe place. If the battery is weak, it won’t be able to hold a charge and the car may not restart even after you drive it or 10-15 minutes. If your headlights/dash lights seem dimmer than usual, you may have a bad alternator, too. Get home – or to a repair shop – as quickly as possible.

Image Credit

• How To Squeeze Every Penny Out Of Your Car
• Getting Your Car Ready For Winter
• How To Safely Raise And Support A Car
• Don’t Overreact To These Common Car Problems
• Getting Your Money’s Worth

By John Carr, NMA Activist

A year ago Utah became the second state in the modern era to post an 80 mile per hour speed limit. Since 1995 state law has specified a 75 mile per hour maximum speed limit. In 2008 that limit was lifted from part of I-15. Utah DOT could post any speed limit it wanted. Officials chose to post 80. The law directed DOT to report back in a year on the effects of speed limit changes.

The report is out. The effects were nil. The fastest 85th percentile speed was 85 mph before and 85 after. Accidents did not change significantly. Speed variance increased slightly without other effect.

This is all as expected. Numbers on signs do not control drivers’ speed. There aren’t enough police to run constant speed traps in the middle of nowhere, and that’s what it takes to slow traffic.

There was a major accident on I-15 shortly after the speed limit went up. It could have been anywhere. It happened not far outside the new 80 zone. Inside the 80 zone it would have been taken as proof that the speed limit increase was recklessly endangering drivers. In the 75 zone it was not taken as an indictment of the low speed limit.

That is how people think about speed limits. Ignore what they don’t want to believe, panic over what they do want to believe.

Next time a state considers raising a highway speed limit we’ll all hear how everybody will start driving faster and dying faster. This is false, of course, but facts are not welcome in this debate.

Media coverage:

http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=148&sid=8401437

http://www.deseretnews.com/article/705338447/UDOT-80-mph-limit-slows-speeders.html

Editorial:

http://www.deseretnews.com/article/705338984/Editorial-Find-natural-speed-limits.html

• Fight Your Speeding Ticket With Simple Math
• Realistic Speed Limits Reduce Road Rage
• What Should Cities Do If 90% Of Drivers Exceed The Speed Limit?
• Satellite-Enforced Speed Limits: A Glimpse Of Our Future?
• Nearly 80% Of Drivers Oppose 55 MPH National Speed Limit

By Eric Peters, Automotive Columnist

Before you can change engine oil or do many other minor (and major) vehicle service, it’s usually necessary to raise the vehicle sufficiently to gain access. Even if all you’re doing is changing a tire, it’s important to raise (and support) the vehicle properly.

Here’s how:

* Do not use the factory-supplied tire jack to raise the car except in emergencies (such as a flat tire) and even then, never get underneath the vehicle when it’s only supported by the factory tire jack. These jacks are often marginally safe, not particularly stable, even flimsy.

* Obtain a good-quality floor or bottle-type hydraulic jack with a load rating sufficient to safely raise the car. A jack with a 2 or 3 ton capacity is typically plenty for most passenger cars. Floor jacks (the ones that roll on four little wheels, etc.) are more expensive but more stable and thus safer than bottle-type jacks. They also have (typically) a larger contact pad and are easier to use.

* Obtain a pair of good-quality fixed jack stands to support the car once it’s been raised by the hydraulic jack. Hydraulic jacks can leak or fail, which is why it is very important to use fixed jack stands to support the weight of the vehicle. (The fixed stands are height-adjustable; once you set the height you need, you lock them into place with a ratcheting mechanism or pin.)

* Let someone know you are about to do some work on the vehicle — just in case.

* Park the vehicle on a level, firm surface such as a driveway pad. Avoid surfaces such as grass and loose sand/gravel, etc. which may shift or be compressed by the weight of the vehicle.

* Be sure the transmission is in “Park” and the parking brake fully applied to prevent the vehicle from rolling.

* Look underneath the vehicle and locate a structural hard point such as a frame rail. Be careful not to place the jack underneath non-structural sheetmetal (rocker panels, etc.) or relatively delicate suspension components. Never place the jack underneath the engine/oil pan. On unibody-type vehicles there will usually be an easily identifiable notched area on the underbody intended as a jacking point. Many owner’s manuals also will tell you where it’s safe to place the jack. Be absolutely sure about the place where you’re about to try to raise the vehicle. If it’s not a structural hard point and you try to jack up the car, you may cause damage.

* Be sure the jack’s pad — the part that contacts the vehicle’s frame/hard point — is centered on the jacking point.

* Gently raise the vehicle to the working height you need. Only raise the vehicle high enough to gain access as the higher off the ground it is, the less stable it may become as weight shifts, etc. Observe the jacking point as you proceed; if you see signs of crimpling metal or hear unusual sounds, stop and immediately release pressure on the jack. Re-check your hard point.

* Once the vehicle is at the working height you want, carefully slide a fixed jack stand underneath the frame/hard point and gently lower the hydraulic jack until the weight of the vehicle is on the jack stand, not the hydraulic jack. For maximum safety, it’s a good idea to use jack stands in pairs, so that the front (or rear) end of the vehicle is supported evenly.

* Be sure the car is securely supported and stable on the jack stand(s) before you crawl underneath.

* When you’re finished working, use the hydraulic jack to raise the vehicle enough so that you can safely remove the jack stands. Gently lower the vehicle.

You’re done!

• Do You Make These Mistakes With Your Car?
• 10 Things Everyone Should Know About Tires
• Getting Your Car Ready For Winter
• 7 Tips For Dealing With Your Car Dealership
• 6 Unusual But Essential Tools For Car Guys (And Girls)