In this beginner series post, we will cover the basics and the concepts we need to remember to master the motorcycle friction zone:

Balance Skills

You first need to have the skills how to balance on a bike. If you can ride a bike, then you understand the concept that you are more balanced when you are moving. Balancing on a motorcycle is the same.

What is the clutch lever?

The clutch lever is located on the left side of the handlebar. Its main purpose is to engage and disengage power from the engine to the rear wheel.

When the clutch lever is all the way out, the clutch is fully engaged. All the engine’s power is transferred to the drive system which causes the rear wheel to move forward.

What is the gear shift lever?

The gear shift lever is located on the lower left side of the motorcycle. We use our left foot to change gears. If you have driven a manual transmission car, the concept is similar where you need to step on the clutch before shifting gears.

With a motorcycle, the gears are laid out differently. With a combination of fully squeezing the clutch, you can safely shift gears by kicking down to the first gear. To go back to neutral, slide your left foot under the gear shift lever and lift it upward while fully squeezing the clutch. Each click equals one gear.

• The gear pattern is laid out with the first gear at the bottom (one kick down).
• Neutral
• 2nd gear
• 3rd, 4th, 5th, and sometimes 6th gear.

What is the throttle?

The throttle is located on the right end of the handlebar. Twisting the handlebar towards you increases the amount of fuel that feeds into the engine. Twisting away from you feeds less fuel. Always start in a normal or flat wrist position.

Finally, what is the motorcycle friction zone?

Now that we nailed down the basics, we can now describe what the motorcycle friction zone is. This is the area in the clutch lever position where the clutch begins to engage the engine and transfer power to the rear wheel. As power is transferred to the rear wheel the motorcycle begins to move forward even without throttling.

How can I practice?

Stand flat-footed on your motorbike, pull in the clutch all the way in, and shift gear to first gear (one kick down). Without adjusting the throttle, slowly release the clutch lever until the bike begins to inch forward, and pull the clutch all the way in to stop.

While the clutch is pulled on the way in, walk the bike backward and repeat by slowly releasing the clutch lever to move forward. Do this several times until you are comfortable with the friction zone.

Finally, when ready try doing this exercise in an open space like a parking lot, engage the friction zone, and balance yourself in the motorbike moving forward. If you begin to move too fast, pull the clutch in to cut power to the rear wheel.

Once you’ve mastered the friction zone you are on your way to increasing your confidence and gaining more motorcycle riding skills.

The post Mastering the Motorcycle Friction Zone appeared first on Motorcycle Driving School Cafe.

The engine is the heart of your motorcycle. The engine changes energy into motion. In our case the energy is derived from controlled burning of fuel inside of an engine.

Internal combustion engine comes in variety of design depending on the type it can be four-stroke or two-stroke type. (There has some companies that tried a rotary engine -wankel which is outside the scope here).

All piston-powered internal combustion engine share a few fundamental characteristics. It doesn’t matter if it is tiny or huge, the basic principle remain the same.

Get the fuel into the engine that allows it to be burned, then some way of using that burning fuel to perform some useful work, then after fuel is converted to energy, some means of exhausting the remains.

Two-stroke engine is the first we will look at.

Two-stroke Basics

The engine derives its name from the fact that only two strokes of the piston (1 revolution of the crankshaft) are needed to complete the intake, compression, exhaust and power cycle.

There are some performance advantage that two-stroke enjoys over four-stroke, which is why it is primarily used in bikes requiring very high power-to-weight ratio such as dirt bikes. While the two-stroke(strokers) is gradually being phased out of racing, in part because racing two-strokes are noisy and environmentally dirty.

Two-stroke engine employs fewer moving parts and is inexpensive to design and build for utilitarian purposes, it dominates the moped and commuter bike market.

There are two principal difference between two and four-stroke engines.

1. Basic two-stroke has no camshafts or valves : the fuel/air mix flows into the cylinder through small ports/holes.
2. The way the engine is lubricated :
   • lubricated by one or two methods
     • oil is mixed directly to the fuel
     • injected by pumps into the fuel as it leaves the carburetor or by some other system.
   • because oil is heavier than fuel, it drops out of the mix and coats the bearings and piston skirt which lubricates them.
   • much of the oil is burned and the remains exits the exhaust pipe in its natural state, emissions are a big problem that is why it is called dirty

Piston-Port Two-Stroke Engines

The most basic form of two-stroke design uses piston-port induction. In this design the fuel/air is drawn in the crankcase by the motion of the piston, passed to the combustion chamber through transfer ports, and then exhausted after combustion under the power of its own expansion.

TOP – As the piston moves up from bottom dead center, a partial vacuum is produced in the crankcase. As it is moving forward its skirts clears the intake port, allowing fresh fuel/air into the crankcase, as piston moves further up it seals off the exhaust port and starts to compress the mixture in the combustion chamber.

CENTER – as piston nears top dead center, a spark occurs in the plug gap, igniting the compressed fuel mixture. The expanding gases pushes the piston down creating energy. As it goes down it seals the intake port and compresses the fuel/air in the crankcase.

BOTTOM – as piston moves pass the exhaust port, exhaust gases flows out. As it continuous down it exposes the transport port which releases the flow of the fuel/air into the compression chamber drawn from the compressed mixture in the crankcase chamber. After piston reaches bottom dead center, it starts upward again and as the piston passes the exhaust port, it seals it off, and the process repeats.

Read Valves and Rotary Valves

More sophisticated two-strokes are fitted with reed or rotary valves. The basic problem with piston-port engine is that the as the piston moves down, the crankcase pressure soon exceeds the atmosphere. When pressure is higher in the crankcase, the fuel mix will reverse direction and flow backwards out of the carburetor.

To prevent backflow a reed valve can be placed in the inlet tract. These are thin strips of metal that acts a one-way valve between intake and carburetor. When crankcase pressure is higher than atmospheric pressure, the valve closes.

In rotary-valve aka disk-valve two strokes, a partially cut-away disk rotates, opening and closing the intake port. The disk is typically attached to the crankshaft and is timed to open on the upward stroke of the piston so that opening in the disk allows fuel/air mixture enter the crankcase chamber. On downward stroke of the piston the disk closes preventing backflow.

Power Valves

Two-stroke performance big leap is the power valves. It is a moveable restriction placed in the exhaust port. A small electric motor similar to computer disc drive may control the power valve, though other versions are mechanically controlled.

In essence, large exhaust port is good for top-end power while small port enhances mid-range and low-speed running. The power valve is shaped like an eyelid. The control mechanism raises or lowers the eyelid depending on engine rpm.

In summary

Internal combustion engine fundamental characteristics is to burn fuel/air which creates an explosion that creates an expansion producing energy, using that energy into something useful and finally an exhaust method to discard the remains of what was burned.

Two-stroke engine only requires one cycle of the crankcase which covers intake, compression, power and exhaust.

There are different valves and mechanism to prevent backflow from the crankcase to the inlet valve. Power valve is used for performance by controlling the exhaust port depending on engine rpm.

The post Engine Design & Basic Theory Part 1 (Two-Stroke Engines) appeared first on Motorcycle Driving School Cafe.

One piston stroke is the piston movement from top to the bottom cylinder or from bottom to the top cylinder.

• TDC (Top Dead Center) – when piston is closest to the cylinder head
• BDC (Bottom Dead Center) – when the piston is farthest from the head as possible.

Putting it altogether on a running engine.

• Intake stroke – piston heads to BDC, intake valves opens and fuel/air mix flows in the cylinder. The downward movement of the piston creates a vacuum inside the cylinder which lowers the pressure this allows the flow of the fuel/air mixture.
• Compression stroke – piston rises to TDC, compressing the fuel/air mixture. The intake and exhaust ports are closed
• Power stroke – spark plug fires the compressed mix and pushes the piston to BDC. When the mixture it burned it expands, the expansion creates a high pressure inside the cylinder pushing the piston downwards
• Exhaust stroke – while inertia carries the piston back to TDC, the exhaust valves open and the burned gases are expelled.

How do we keep the engine running between strokes?

If we relied solely in the inertia provided by the piston and crankshaft assembly, the rotary motion of the crankshaft would proceed in fits and start. It would be very difficult to keep the engine running, particularly at low speed.
To make the magic happen, we need to store the energy in a flywheel as part of the crankshaft. Its purpose is to store energy between power strokes.

• essentially it uses the stored energy to keep the engine from turning over smoothly and prevent it from stalling.
• the lighter the flywheel the less energy it stores
• bikes with light flywheel tend to stall more often
• engine with light flywheel respond to change in engine rpm a lot quicker
• rule of thumb, high rpm engines like those found in sportsbike and race bike, will have light flywheel
• touring bikes and cruisers, and single cylinder engines will have heaver flywheels

Wrapping up, hopefully this should give fundamental knowledge on how four-stroke engine works. Next we will learn the parts that make it all happen, the two major system the bottom end and top end.

The post Engine Design & Basic Theory Part 2 (Four-Stroke Engines) appeared first on Motorcycle Driving School Cafe.

• wet-sump engines – oil is stored in the crankcase
• dry-sump engines – oil is stored in a separate tank
• unit-construction engines – many modern motorcycles also house transmission and clutch in the crankcase
• non-unit transmission engines – as you guessed it, tranny and clutch are in a separate case

The backbone of the crankcase is the crankshaft. Crankshaft converts the linear motion of the piston into a rotary motion that’s use to drive the motorcycle.
Types of crankshaft

• pressed – can be made of several separate pieces bolted together
• forged or unit – made from single chunk of steel alloy

The connecting rod connects to the piston to the crankshaft. The end connected also sometimes called the big end to the crankshaft is bigger, because it has a larger diameter than the end of the connected to the piston. It should be light and strong and able to transmit the heavy loads imposted on the piston without deflecting.

The post Engine Design & Basic Theory Part 3 (The Bottom End) appeared first on Motorcycle Driving School Cafe.

• cylinders and cylinder heads
  • found the cylinder block are machined hole (bore) where the piston moves and up and down
  • most engines use in the cylinder block pressed-in liners made of steel alloy. If liner becomes damaged it can be repaired by re-bore
  • some use plated bores but are more expensive
  • cylinder head holds the sparkplug and valves
• pistons
  • disc fitted into a hollow cylinder and used to transmit motion
  • piston pins connects the piston to the connection rod.
• valves
  • engines need some way of allowing fueld and air mixture in the cylinder, sealing it off and expelling which is what the valves and camshaft do.
  • every cylinder on a four -stroke has at least one intake and exhaust valve
  • today all valves are located in the cylinder head – the OHV design short for overhead valve means the valves are located above the piston
  • old designs had the valve in the cylinder block and the cylinder head only the spark plug ( these were called flatheads – made famous by Harley Davidson)
• cams ( for over-head cam designs)
  • camshaft has several designs, but it is used to control the closing and opening of the valves.
  • common design is to use two concentric springs to close the valve.
  • when a single cam is used to open the intake and exhaust (SOHC)
  • if engine is too wide, two cams to control each intake and exhaust (DOHC)
  • engines with cams located at the bottom of the crankcase are called pushrod engines.

Hope this shed some basic understanding of the top end of engine.

The post Engine Design & Basic Theory Part 4 (The Top End) appeared first on Motorcycle Driving School Cafe.

1. Accreditation and Licensing

The first and most important factor to consider is whether the school is properly accredited and licensed. Look for:

• State-approved curriculum
• Certified instructors
• Valid licensing from relevant authorities
• Good standing with motorcycle safety organizations

2. Course Options

Different riders have different needs. A good school should offer:

• Basic rider courses for beginners
• Advanced courses for experienced riders
• Specialized training (sport bikes, touring, etc.)
• Flexible scheduling options

3. Equipment and Facilities

Quality equipment and facilities are essential for effective learning:

• Well-maintained training motorcycles
• Modern safety gear available
• Adequate training area
• Classroom facilities for theoretical instruction

4. Instructor Quality

The quality of instruction can make or break your learning experience:

• Student-to-instructor ratio
• Instructor experience and credentials
• Teaching style and approach
• Availability for questions and support

5. Location and Accessibility

Consider the practical aspects:

• Distance from your home
• Parking availability
• Public transportation access
• Training schedule flexibility

6. Cost and Value

While price shouldn’t be the only factor, it’s important to understand what you’re paying for:

• Course fees and what they include
• Additional costs (gear rental, materials, etc.)
• Payment plans or financing options
• Value compared to other schools

7. Reviews and Reputation

Do your research on the school’s reputation:

• Online reviews from past students
• Word-of-mouth recommendations
• Success rates and pass rates
• Any complaints or negative feedback

8. Course Curriculum

Look into what the course actually teaches:

• Theory and practical components
• Duration and intensity
• Skills covered
• Preparation for licensing tests

Conclusion

Choosing the right motorcycle school is an investment in your safety and riding future. Take the time to research your options, visit facilities, and ask questions. The right school will provide you with the foundation you need to become a safe, skilled, and confident rider.

The post How to Choose the Right Motorcycle School: A Complete Guide appeared first on Motorcycle Driving School Cafe.

What’s in the Box?

• Sticker Kit
• Helmet Instruction Manual
• Clear Visor
• Helmet Bag

Features

• Comes with 5 year warranty
• Weighs 1.4kg, average for modern helmets
• Premium comfortable full leather interior padding
• Old school double-d ring fastener (classic way tighgten the chin strap)
• Visor aperture. Wide view angles (you can see a lot more)
• Excellent vents
• Limited chin coverage
• Sharp 3/5 star rated, barely passing
• The helmet is ECE22.05 certified

Is the Bell Bullit Quiet?

Unfortunately the Bell Bullitt is not one of the quietest helmet out there because of the wider aperture for the face and no padding at the bottom chin.. you can hear most of the wind noise while riding. Might want to invest in some earplugs for wind reduction.

Sizes

The Bell Bullitt comes in three shell sizes ranging from XS to XXL.

Ventilation

Ventilation is one of the key selling points of the Bell Bullitt. There are 4 metal valve vents on the forehead for cooling the head and a vent at the back of the helmet to allow for the air to flow. In Addition, there are also chin vents which can be opened or closed from inside the helmet, so you need to stick your finger in the chin bar to open and close the vent, not the most assessible way.

Visor

The Bell Bullitt’s aperture is wide, has excellent viewing range with minimal head turning. Feels like wearing an open face helmet.

Just know that there are only three positions available on the Bell Bullitt – down, halfway and down (no slightly open option). It could get foggy in winter rider so consider putting some anti-fog treatment.

There is two visor types, flat and the bubble (the bubble is more retro but with some view distortion) There is no distortion with the flat view, you can’t go wrong with it. I have a couple of flat visors (clear and iridium)

The helmet closes with the magnets with what Bell calls as “Magnefusion shield closure system”. One of it’s unique features, I’ve only seen these Bell Bullitt helmet. The magnet latch is attached to the helmet with a nice leather that matches the interior lining. It gives the helmet a nice touch.

To remove or replace the visor, ideally use a cloth and coin to avoid damaging screws holding the visor, removing is as easy as it gets.

Chin Guard

The chin guard design is more of a visual effect rather than a more thought of chin protection and the breeze from the bottom of the helmet is where I find the most cause of the wind noise.

Comfort

The leather suede interior lining is designed for maximum comfort, the cheek pads feel comfortable and material is light weight. It can be removed and washed.

Other Stuffs

The helmet also uses a padded leather double D-ring closure system that completes that old school retro look. Also in addition, the helmet has internal speaker pockets in the lining.

Bell Bullitt Helmet Review Summary

A retro helmet is a looker, the build and material is quite solid and premium. From all my motorcycle gears this is the one that I really hunted down to save and get. This is not a cheap helmet btw and not an entry level helmet either.

The safety rating is not that high so I try to only use the Bell Bullitt for short ride and commutes to the CBD.

Only cons for me is the noise for me when I ride on higher speed other than that I love the extra wide aperture.

Checkout Amazon for some good deals for the Bell Bullit Helmet

The post Bell Bullitt Helmet Review appeared first on Motorcycle Driving School Cafe.

Whether you are a pro or a newbie when it comes to motorcycle riding, there is important information that you need to know to drive safely.

This information is basic and is expected from everyone to learn. If you are new in this field, this is the best article you can read to start with. On the other hand, if you’re a pro, this article will help you refresh some learning.

Here is the motorcycle basic you can read for motorcycle familiarization.

T-CLOCS Inspection: What is it?

Before going on a long ride, you must ensure that your motorcycle is in good condition. This will help you avoid any accidents that could have been prevented.

T-CLOCS inspection is an inspection every rider does before riding their motorcycle. In short, it’s a pre-ride inspection. Even if you’re too excited to ride, never start your engine without performing this inspection.

What you do in here is check every motorcycle’s basic parts to ensure they are in good condition. This T-CLOCS inspection was made in a checklist form by the Motorcycle Safety Foundation for riders to be guided in any possible mechanical hazards.

For motorcycle familiarization, T-CLOCS is an abbreviation that stands for the following terms:

• T – tires & wheels
• C – control
• L – lights and electrical
• O – oil & fluids
• C – chassis
• S – side stands

You need to check these motorcycle parts daily before hitting the road.

T-CLOCS Checklist: What to look for in controls and parts?

For tires, wheels, and brakes, you have to look for the condition, pressure, bearing, and seals of these parts. Check if it’s not deflated, has enough air pressure per your tire specifications (e.g.29psi), tire spikes are still there, is not wobbling, bearings are complete and not worn out, no tears and wears, and no objects are embedded.

Ensure that your controls are lubricated and have no broken parts or cracks. The brake pads are strong, the handlebar is straight, the clutch is working, cables are not loose, and throttles are not stuck and moving.

Of course, always check your lights if it’s clean and working. Switch from high to low beams and front and back lights. Also, ensure the electrical components are in good condition to avoid short circuits. The battery should not be rusty and filled with electrolytes; all wires have good insulation.

Oil serves as the blood of the motorcycle. Check if it has enough and if it is clean. Any dirt may cause trouble, especially in the engine, as it is the heart of the motor to keep running. Check if there are enough fluids. Make sure that there are no leaks.

The engine and other parts are connected to the bike’s chassis. If the chassis integrity is not strong, it won’t be able to support it, and the chances of an accident may happen.

With this, check for any rust as it will weaken it. Also, the bike chain should have enough tension so it can adjust depending on the type of road the motorcycle is in.

Lastly, the stand. All bikes contain a side stand, but not all have a center stand. As long as the side stand is ok, then it is good. This stand will support your bike in the park, so it shouldn’t have any cracks as it will need to support its weight.

If, in any case, you find any parts malfunctioning, replace and fix the damaged part immediately before riding it to avoid an accident. And by any chance, all is well when doing the inspection, and all parts have passed the quality based on the checklist; then, you can start driving.

Mounting and Dismounting: Elements of Good Posture in Riding Motorcycle.

Another essential motorcycle basic you need to learn for motorcycle familiarization is the proper way of riding in and riding out on the motorcycle, along with the proper posture.

Below are the basic steps for mounting/dismounting a motorcycle.

1. Approach your motorcycle on the side where your side stand is located.

2. Hold the left-hand grip, including the break.

3. Lean forward and prepare your right feet. Use the handlebars for extra support.

4. Swing your right foot across the seat.

5. Lean back to sit. You can either put your feet on the ground or the peg.

6. Raise the bike and remove the side stand. You must be in a rider position.

7. Turn your engine on, and you’re ready to go.

The steps and dismounting are simple. You have to reverse the steps in mounting a motorcycle.

For motorcycle posture, always have the rider position. Head in front, eyes on the road, knees near the gas tank, and grip the handles properly. Your hands should be bent slightly.

This motorcycle basic is the key to avoiding getting into accidents. This motorcycle familiarization will help you maneuver your motorcycle well and learn the importance of making sure that your motorcycle is in good condition.

The post Motorcycle Basic Operation and Familiarization appeared first on Motorcycle Driving School Cafe.

I just made a big upgrade from my old iPhone 8 to an iPhone 14 Pro. So instead of just shopping around for a normal case, I am excited to get the new Quad Lock Mag. First time to own one and I’m excited for it to ship.

What are the Quad Lock Features?

• Quad Lock features a patented dual-stage locking mechanism that securely locks your phone to the mount.
• Quick to attach and detach with one hand.
• Protective phone case with impact resistant edge to edge cover and protective lining

Available Models

• New Quad Lock Mag – is thinner, flatter, and customizable with mag rings and MagSafe compatible,
• Original Quad Lock – not compatible with mag range

Both cases feature the patented locking mechanism

Quad Lock Mag Features

• Quad Lock Mag case is compatible with all Quad Lock mounts.
• Use with Quad Lock Mag heads for Fast charging
• Customizable with colored mag ring
• Strong magnets allow you to attach your phone to a variety of surfaces

So Is the Quad Lock Any Good?

Just from the initial impression, I am 100% confident this Quad Lock is good, with almost 70,000 product reviews. Would recommend it if you are looking for any phone mount and add to your motorcycle accessories.

The post Is Quad Lock Any Good? appeared first on Motorcycle Driving School Cafe.

I now know a lot more about the Dainese Air Frame D1 tex jacket after owning it for a few years. When the weather gets hot this jacket comes out from the closet.

Key Features of the Dainese Air Frame D1 Jacket

• Comes in multiple color combination. I got the pure black.
• It’s breezy and good for summer rides. Airy and comfortable to wear. Stylish design.
• There is the Dianese text outline in the front and the logo at the back.
• Quick dry fabric chassis with ample use of mesh panes in the front, back and arms
• Removal thermal windproof liner for those chilly mornings, you can detach it easily as the temperature rises for the day.
• Removal water-resistant liner is perforated
• 1 inner pocket and 2 outer pocket
• Reflective inserts
• There is a jacket-pants or jacket-trouser fastening system
• Neck, waist, shoulder and wrist adjustments
• Soft inserts for the wrist and neck
• Mesh panels are located in the arms, chest and back to allow airflow movement through the garment.

Protection Features of the Dainese Air Frame D1 Jacket

• Removal shoulders protectors (EN 1621.1 standard)
• Built in elbow protectors
• Pockets for optional armour for G1 and G2 back protector (not included)

Gallery

Product Specifications

Comes in different variety of colors and combinations (red, white, green and blue)

Pros & Cons – Is the Dainese Air Frame D1 Jacket Worth It?

Pros for me are the following:

• Light and quality of material is impressive
• Very breezy and can really cool you down in the hot weather
• Sweat dries up pretty quickly because of the Quickdry fabric

Cons

• Could be because of the size I’ve chosen but the sleeves on the arms are quite big and wind can come through there. If you have gloves that can wrap around the arms the better.
• As it is meant for summer, I instanstly got soaked when the rain started pouring. Not waterproof.

In Summary – Is the Dainese Air Frame D1 Jacket Right for You?

As for my Dainese Air Frame D1 Jacket review summary, it is an excellent choice for those seeking lightweight, breathable summer riding gear. Its quick-drying fabric and impressive material quality make it a worthwhile investment. However, keep in mind that the jacket may not be suitable during rainy conditions or when more extensive protection is required due to its lack of waterproofing. Be sure to consider these factors before making your decision!

The post Dainese Air Frame D1 Jacket Review appeared first on Motorcycle Driving School Cafe.