While it is true, there are some oils that should be avoided if you have oily or blemish prone skin, adding skin-loving essential and carrier oils to your daily skin care regimen can be a very good thing. Here is why.

How oils work? Because oil is an emollient, it fills in the gaps between the cells of the skin. Oil-based products replace essential lipids in the outer dermal layer replacing moisture and creating younger, healthier looking skin. The chemical composition of the skin absorbs oils more easily than water-based moisturizers. Even if your skin is oily or blemish prone, additional hydration facilitates healing and will boost your skin’s glow and vitality.

Oils to Avoid.  Avoid using these oils on your face because they may congest the skin: Lanolin, Cocoa Butter, Mineral Oil, and Petroleum.

So oil can benefit oily skin? Yes, the right oils used on oily skin can be. Natural health advocate and creator of her own all-natural herbal skin care line, Annmarie Gianni uses Grapeseed Oil as the base oil in her Facial Oil for oily, blemish-prone skin. She explains that Grapeseed Oil is actually slightly astringent and a very fine oil, which absorbs quickly and delivers your skin’s own natural oils deeper, allowing them to penetrate better into your skin.

My favorite oil-based skin care product?

Annmarie’s Herbal Facial Oil for Oily and Acne Prone Skin

This oil blend has some slightly astringent, pore refining qualities and can also be used as a light moisturizer. With acne clearing and anti-inflammatory herbs like Neem, White Willow, Milk Thistle, Licorice Root, I adore the feel and the smell of this bona fide all-botanical blend.

Benefits:
•Helps Control Acne Breakouts
•Prevents Pores From Clogging
•Opens Clogged Pores
•Balances Natural Skin Oils

They suggest to apply to clean skin. Dab a bit on nose, chin, cheeks and forehead and blend well. If you are interested in this product or any other from Annmarie’s skin care line, for this week only (June 6-11th) you can receive 10% off using the coupon code: mythbuster10. Just go to: http://www.annmariegianni.com/.

Are you blocking the UVA?

While we have all heard of the benefits from using a daily sunscreen (anti-aging, avoiding skin damage and cancer), it is good to note that not all sunscreens are created equal. Many sunscreens are good at blocking the long UVB rays, however most do very little to block the damaging short UVA rays.

Ingredients that absorb UVA/UVB rays, such as avobenzone and octyl methoxycinnamate, are known as absorbers or chemical based sunscreens. In contrast, physical blockers of UV radiation have ingredients such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

In a recent post from SkinTour.com “Are You Blocking UVA, Too?” Dr. Brandith Irwin explains,

“Remember that SPF refers only to UVB protection and doesn’t help you on UVA. And buying a sunscreen that says “broad spectrum” or “UVA Protection” won’t necessarily protect you much. Some of those have only a tiny amount of zinc or titanium for UVA blocking.”

To read her entire article including a list of affordable UVA sunscreens for the body and face, go to: http://www.skintour.com/tips/Are-You-Blocking-UVA-Too-.html.

If you are looking for a great retinoid product, the SkinMedica Tri-Retinol Complex is a highly recommended “non-perscription” retinoid that delivers anti-aging benefits without irritating your skin.

And, if you have always wanted to try the SkinMedica TNS Essential Serum, but were frightened by the price tag ($271 – yikes!), we are giving away one of those too. This product contains two chambers, one filled with proteins, antioxidants, and amino acids, and the other with the TNS Corrective Complex. It works over time to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation while improving elasticity.

This contest runs through Friday April 22, 2011, so be sure to enter!

Here is my assessment of claims vs. hype when it comes to antioxidants and skin care:

1. The reason we know about antioxidants is marketing.

The sources of antioxidants are abundant, from blueberries, acai, sea buckthorn, pomegranate and goji, I can almost guarantee the next antioxidant wonder fruit will be a multi-syllabic extremely rare berry which was miraculously discovered and preserved in the entrails of a prehistoric woolly mammoth that was chipped out a Siberian glacier.

2. Loads of big claims, maybe not so much good science to back it up.

Kidding aside, the trend follows that the higher the concentration or potency, and the rarity and exotic location of origin add to an antioxidants value and benefits. While I absolutely believe that antioxidants like Vitamin C and A are of value, there is a need to question their efficacy as well. Asking if these antioxidants can actually penetrate into the skin cells to do what they say they can do. Due to poor formulations, oxidation and absorption issues, many skin care products with antioxidants may do nothing but just sit on the surface. Maybe no harm done, but no good accomplished either. Marketing hype wins, consumer gets zero.

As an example, the antioxidant Vitamin C can both protect skin from the sun and neutralize free radicals. It effectively promotes collagen production and tones and tightens the skin to help repair the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It has also been proven to reduce skin discoloration due to sun damage, aging, and acne scarring. Vitamin C is very unstable and can easily oxidize, making the compound ineffective, so it’s important to pay attention to expiration dates and that it is being stored in air and light-free containers. According to the SkinCeuticals site, 15% is the optimum potency of  deliverable Vitamin C to receive the desired benefits from its use.

3. “Just because a food has antioxidants doesn’t mean we should eat it (or slather it on our skin!).” – Kevin @ RenegadeHealth

The presence of antioxidants isn’t the only factor in deciding what to place on our skin. I always look for specific active ingredients before purchasing a product. The first on the list are the ingredients in the highest percentage, just because an antioxidant is listed, doesn’t mean there is enough for it to anything. Depending upon the specific skin care product, if I want one with an particular antioxidant benefit, I will want to make sure it has the proper potency. Liposomes or chirally correct formulations (like L-Ascorbic Acid or D-Beta Carotene) are used to assist the active ingredients ability to be delivered deeper into the skin and be recognized and utilized by the skin’s receptor cells.

Conclusion of is it good or good hype? A little of both. The next time you go skin care shopping, consider these 3 points (along with the price tag of course) when you hear or read the word antioxidant listed as a selling point. Please share your thoughts!

Side Effects of Prescription Strength (Rx) Retin-A:

• Increased skin cell turnover can be irritating and cause flaking and redness. The key is, easy does it! A little goes a long way, and you want to build up using it gradually, even every other day at first.  If you are experiencing flaking or severe irritation, take a few days off, or consult with your Dermatologist.  Another option is to try a lower concentration or a OTC retinol cream that can offer you a similar result – my personal favorite is the Tri-Retinol Complex from SkinMedica. You will also want to use a good moisturizer while using Retin A.
• Increased sun sensitivity. While using retinoids, your skin will become more sensitive to sunlight, so you will want to use a very effective sunscreen, wear a hat, and keep out of the sun to protect your skin.
• Do not use if pregnant, the use of topical retinoids can cause birth defects.
• There is some controversy of the long term side effects Retin-A.

To help clear up some of the confusion and avoid as many negative side effects as possible, Dr. Brandith Irwin, a renowned Dermatologist and contributor for SkinTour wrote up an excellent reference article about the various retinol prescription and non-prescription options, and what will work best for your specific age and skin type.

Vitamin-A creams have been and are still the gold standard for repair of sun-damaged and aging skin. They also help to prevent precancerous lesions and skin cancer. There’s nothing better available in a cream form. Everyone who can tolerate them should be using one!

Still needing more information?  There is a lot more to say on this topic, and here is another post to learn more about Retinoids:  All About Retinoids: Considering Retin-A.

Essential Oils are known for both medicinal and restorative skin care qualities, and are usually placed with a carrier oil such as Almond, Olive, or Jojoba. Except for Lavender, most essential oils applied alone on the skin would be too irritating. Here is a brief list of some of the best floral essential oils for your skin:

• Rose - More precious than gold, Rose hydrates and promotes healing while nourishing the skin with antioxidants.
• Chamomile - Think gentle. Possesses healing and anti-inflammatory properties.
• Lavender – Calming. Helps to soothe and treat skin conditions aggravated by stress (acne, eczema, rough skin).
• Orange Blossom – Considered one of the richest and most expensive essential oils, Neroli Oil is derived from Orange Blossoms. Neroli Oil is used traditionally in aromatherapy to calm the senses and treat insomnia. Neroli Oil is also a non-toxic and non-irritating skin treatment that can be used for improving dry, sensitive, or mature skin.
• Calendula – Purported as better than Aloe Vera, the bright yellow to orange colored blossoms capture the strength from the sun and lend powerful healing and anti-inflammatory properties. The Calendula Cream from Boiron has been a godsend to my irritated skin on many an occasion!

Well-researched and documented by organizations such as Bach and the Floral Essence Society, floral essences can be used in a variety of ways to heal, comfort and soothe the skin and spirit. It is said that a flower’s blossom is the spiritual expression of the plant, pretty cool n’est-ce pas? While much can be said, here are three floral essences that can be incorporated into your skin care arsenal:

• Pretty Face – Creates radiant inner beauty; aids in self-acceptance of personal appearance despite handicaps or blemishes.
• Self-Heal – wakens the confidence and inner vital forces necessary for healing on all levels: physical, emotional and spiritual. The Self-Heal Creme from FES has become a favorite for my hands and as a daily facial moisturizer.
• Calendula – Soothing, calming. Lends healing warmth and receptivity.

Massey’s book was my true inspiration for leaving brushes, sulfate-shampoos, and blow dryers by the way side – forever!

After reading the original Curly Girl book in 2007, I took a leap of faith and put its practices into my daily hair care regimen. And with much praise to Lorraine, my hair and my sanity has been restored! This month, to my delight I discovered that a new edition came out of the Curly Girl classic. Along with a demonstration DVD, this book includes several helpful new tips & tricks for every specific curl type. Highlights for me (but there are a lot more) include:

• A high-protein recipe “Deep-Pack Chakra” weekly deep conditioner.
• Ten tips to remember before you color your curly locks.
• A section on self-trimming!
• For preventing my finer, wavy hair from being weighed down, I learned to distribute my daily hair conditioner from the mid-section to the tips, and to rinse out well.

For those who don’t know it, here is a snippet from my auto-biographical curly girl fairy tale: Embrace Yourself!

As a small child, my hair had the appearance of yellowish downy feathers like what you see on a baby duck. As I got older, and my hair grew, my mother tried several things and consulted with many women at the local beauty shops. At the age of 2, she gave me my first home perm in hopes of giving it some curl and control. I can remember at times standing next to my Mom in the checkout line at the grocery store, or at church, and someone would ask her, “What happened to your daughter’s hair? Bad perm or something?”

(You can follow this link to read more about my teens and adult hair struggles.)

That is until March of this year (2007), when something inside me couldn’t do it anymore. I couldn’t torture, blow dry and fight against the hair God gave me one more day. I believe it was nothing short of divine intervention that sent me to NaturallyCurly.com and Lorraine Massey’s book, Curly Girl. Without a doubt, these two sources of information have changed my life and given me a new found love and appreciation for my hair.

I sincerely hope that we can empower each other by sharing our knowledge and building each other up. I want to get the word out so that the little Jenny’s out there can benefit from my experience and learn to accept themselves for the beautiful people they are! Thank you Lorraine, your message reinforces my own to, “Embrace yourself and your hair, no matter what!”

“Uh, yeah.”

I have a big box filled to the brim with various creams, lotions and potions that come my way. I don’t have much patience for a crappy product. I am human just like everyone else, sometimes I’ll get wowed by the marketing, sometimes I get wowed by the packaging or the philosophy behind the product (example: Eminence). However, if I put it on my skin, and it causes a reaction, triggers a break out, and doesn’t feel fantastic – I’m done, good-bye and onto the next new product that captures my attention.

So in 2010 Boske, a fairly new company on the skin care circuit approached me with their all-star product, Molecular Repair. I was having some fairly tough skin issues over the summer, so I made a first attempt and after a few uses,  pushed it to the back of the bathroom cupboard for a future trial.

December hit, and the dry, cold weather hit about the time, and then I received a really intense enzyme peel – ooh, my skin was raw!  My regular superstar serums were a bit too active to place on my freshly exfoliated epidermis. I reached my arm high in the bathroom cabinet and took another chance with the Molecular Repair from Boske.

Now it gets good.

My skin drank this stuff in. No irritation, no strange fragrance, no stinging. Passing the initial round, the surprise came with what it did for my skin in the coming weeks. Molecular Repair claims to not only soothe with its anti-inflammatory effects, but reverses DNA damage and stimulates the formation of healthy cells.

What’s in it?

A few of the active ingredients:

• Olea Europea Extract is part of an Anti-Glycation complex which impedes the formation of wrinkles and improves the elasticity of the skin.
• Ultrasomes, Roxisomes, and Photosomes enhance the skin’s natural DNA repair process to provide faster healing for wounded skin.
• Malus Domestica Stem Cell Culture Extract stimulates human stem cell production, which results in faster healing and increased collagen production.

The type of Vitamin C Molecular Repair has makes a difference too. While you will notice in many skin care products Vitamin C as either L-Ascorbic Acid or Ascorbyl Palmitate (the most common), Molecular Repair uses Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate a very stable, lipid-soluble form of Vitamin C that fortifies the skin, stimulates collagen production, and brightens uneven skin tone.

A one step anti-aging wonder? I have to admit, my skin loved it.  As for results, I did notice some subtle improvements (smoother, softer, more refined skin) while using Molecular Repair. Expensive? Yes it is, not as outlandish as some I’ve seen, but about what you would expect from a highly concentrated active skin treatment (most topical Vitamin C serums cost $130+).

An exciting new addition to the anti-aging skin care arsenal.  Keep them coming Boske!

One day at my favorite local Dave’s Health store, a representative from MiraCell was demonstrating their skin care products. My dry, cracked knuckles were instantly soothed, and experienced none of the stinging, burning or reactiveness that can often result from lotions and creams with fragrance, alcohol, petroleum, or what MiraCell would call “skin addicting” ingredients.

What MiraCell has to say about “skin addicting” ingredients:

Some poor ingredients have a lubricating or greasy feel to them, so while they may make your skin feel softer, they simply get washed off, giving no benefits. In some cases, these ingredients actually bind with moisture and once washed off leave your skin even more dry than before the product was applied, causing you to want it back on your skin again. This can literally “addict” the skin to these substances. And some companies use these ingredients on purpose to get consumers to use excessive amounts of them.

Some of the good ingredients included in MiraCell products are: Apricot Kernel Oil, Sesame Seed Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (from Coconut Oil), Avocado Extract, and Jojoba Extract to name a few.

Even made better by Founder, Marilyn Harris who was dedicated to using natural ingredients that come only from botanical plants that grow in actual sunlight (get that!). Her philosophy is that light is our source of life, intelligence and truth. Kind of a beautiful concept, and not many skin care lines can make that type of claim.

After a health store employee went on an on about a decrease with her breakouts and a visible reduction in acne scarring while using the Scar & Stretch Mark Support Cream, I decided it was worth the purchase to try a few MiraCell products for myself. As well as their creams, I have been very impressed with the quick absorption and moisturizing qualities of their Skin Relief & Support oil that can be used to treat over 37+ skin conditions, including painful eczema, burns, rashes, and even cold sores!

Cold, winter temperatures and dry, damaged skin deserve something as wonderful as MiraCell.

“I hope you are enjoying the winter weather as much as I am hating it.” - Hemang, a recent message on Facebook