A hernia

As many of you know, last October, I suffered a bilateral inguinal hernia during our long awaited anniversary trip to Italy. It was weird & painful & I couldn’t really wander, which is what makes me tick while traveling & cutting our trip short was one of the hardest travel-related decisions I’ve ever had to make.

Six weeks after we got home, following a series of tests, an emergency ultrasound & way too many doctors appointments, I had successful surgery. Rather than enjoying the season, I spent most of the holidays on the couch, trying to be patient with my slowly healing body. After the first of the year, I was cleared to start exercising again & tried to get back on my feet & back to my ol’ self.

I did too much. Pain which had gone away returned & back to the surgeon I went.

“You could have another hernia,” he said.

“9% of hernia repairs fail,” he said.

I was crushed. More tests, more mental anguish.

Luckily, I did not have another hernia, so the past few months have been filled with slowly trying to get back to my pre-hernia activity level, my pre-hernia weight & my pre-hernia mental state. I’m still crazy bloated (apparently that takes 6-8 months to fully go away) & about one night out of three, I roll over wrong in bed & it feels like someone is stabbing me in the abdomen with a knife.

So here we are at this new normal. I know that this experience pales in comparison to others with chronic health struggles (y’all are my heroes!) but for someone who was pretty sick at the beginning of their life & has been pretty healthy since, it was jarring. Couple this with the fact that it all coincided with a gray, cold, gloomy time of the year & it has been a mental challenge.

I haven’t been able to bring myself to write much about our Italy trip, even though we had some really lovely moments. Maybe I will one day – my notes aren’t very good, but my thousands of photos are. I would like to go back & finish our trip; to do the things we didn’t get to do & to visit the places we had to cut from our journey. But that is challenging this year because…

A new job

As many of you know, this blog is my full time hobby, but not my full time job. I had been in my previous position for six years & was no longer growing professionally or being challenged. I knew it was time for a change, so I decided my new year’s resolution for 2017 would be to find a new professional endeavor. It might be the only new year’s resolution I’ve ever kept.

In the midst of hernia-gate last fall, I was also interviewing for a new job. A job I really wanted. My last interview was during that weird time period between returning from Italy & my surgery – yup, there I was, teetering around on high heels in a suit with three hernias. Afraid I was going to screw up my chances of getting the position, I didn’t even say to my now-boss, ‘Hey, so if we could take the elevator instead of the stairs, I have three hernias & that would be super.’

A few weeks later, I accepted the position before my stitches had even fully dissolved. My first full day back in the office post-surgery was the day I gave my notice. My boss was wonderful & gracious & I spent the next three weeks trying to wrap up my work, celebrate Christmas & not hurt myself.

I started my new position on January 8th & haven’t looked back since. It has been mentally challenging to step into a huge organization, figure out how I can begin to implement the ideas I want so badly to have succeed, figure out how to implement the ideas my brilliant team has been sitting on waiting for me to start & just figure out where the bathroom is & how to submit an expense report. When you work at the same place for six years – & are very comfortable there – you forget how mentally exhausting it is to start somewhere new.

It has been a little quiet around here…

I come home every night happy, but tired. I look forward to every weekend so I can sleep & veg & clean my messy house. I’ve thought a lot about this lil’ blog, but the act of sitting down & writing is a hurdle I’m having trouble tackling.

We’ve been traveling a little: on a much needed long weekend getaway to Puerto Rico in February & to Charleston for a quick weekend escape to my cousin’s wedding in March. The rest of our travels? With the exception of our annual Labor Day jaunt to the Finger Lakes, they’re up in the air for the rest of the year, which is extremely jarring & uncomfortable for me. I went from having 28 vacation days to having 13, so I need to plan our travel carefully.

Do we:

• try to go on a few long weekend trips (Nashville, Savannah, New Orleans…), saving vacation days to roll over for a bigger trip next year (hello, Norwegian fjords!)?
• only go on one longer trip this year, blow most of the days, & be stuck in this same position next year (hello Italy or Portugal)?
• try to figure out a combination of the two?

I’m honestly not sure. I need a travel life coach or something – someone to look at my life & my travel wish list & make it all work.

In the meantime, while all this cluttery stuff continues to get worked out, I appreciate you, dear readers. If you’ve stuck with me this far… for the past eight years & for the past eight months, thank you! I will be back, I promise (after all, the architecture in Charleston was just too pretty not to share), it just might take a while.

Thank you for hanging in there with me.

The post A hernia, a new job and why it has been a little quiet around here appeared first on My View from the Middle Seat.

Despite these hardships, I had heard from other recent visitors that San Juan, particularly Old San Juan, was back up & running to much of its pre-storm strength. So for a quarter of the price it would have cost us to go to South Florida, we headed down to Puerto Rico for a February long weekend to check on the recovery, pump some money into their economy & show our fellow Americans that they’re not forgotten. Here are all the reasons why you should book a trip to Puerto Rico right now.

Open for Business

The view landing in San Juan’s airport is of blue squares that dot the landscape – Army Corps of Engineers-provided tarps serving as the roof of too many Puerto Ricans homes. My first impression was that the island is greener & more lush than expected – but hurricane damage was evident even from the air.

As we rode from the airport into Old San Juan, we passed neighborhoods that looked like the storm hit yesterday – buildings in ruins, the second floor of homes completely uninhabitable, toppled trees. Making our way into Old San Juan, the picture brightened a bit: a cruise ship came into view & fellow pale northerns escaping the winter cold wandered the sidewalks. Had I closed my eyes all the way from the airport to our hotel, I would have opened them to a world that looked very similar to its pre-hurricane life.

Luxury Lodging in Old San Juan

The gorgeous Hotel El Convento reopened its doors to visitors last December & hasn’t looked back since. Once standing proudly as a convent for 252 years & almost torn down in the late 1950s, El Convento has stood proudly as San Juan’s premiere boutique luxury property ever since. The comfortable, Spanish-style rooms feel a million miles away from the blue tarp roofs. Our juliet balcony overlooked the harbor entrance, with its cruise ships silently slipping by day & night.

The El Convento is an oasis of luxury lodging in Old San Juan: the rooftop plunge pool & sundeck is the perfect place to read & relax. An afternoon wine & cheese reception features Spanish wines & cheeses, in a relaxed atmosphere. Even the hotel’s patio restaurant – the only dining option currently open on the property – gave us one of our favorite meals of the trip: a traditional arroz con gandules with shrimp & chorizo.

Restaurants are Open & Yummy in Old San Juan

We are notoriously bad at eating well during our trips, but this trip may have broken that streak. Armed with a list of recommendations from recent visitors, we ate delicious, traditional Puerto Rican food for almost every meal:

• Traditional mofongo, a plantain-based dish, is a must for your time in Puerto Rico. The best we found was recommended by fellow-DC blogger & proud Puerto Rican, Dining Traveler: Cafe Puerto Rico, a casual spot near the cruise port. Don’t be fooled by the location – it’s not at all touristy. Go hungry & skip the appetizer – mofongo is a dense, carb-y concoction that’s very filling & very delicious.

• One afternoon by the pool, we struck up a conversation with another young couple who happened to live in Old San Juan & recommended a great lunch or early dinner spot: El Jibarito. Located down arguably the cutest street in Old San Juan, this casual, colorful spot is packed full of locals enjoying traditional Puerto Rican dishes. My pork in creole sauce is one of the best things I’ve eaten while traveling, while B’s “Christmas special” was a heaping plate of authentic goodness: yellow rice, plantain tamales, pork & sweet plantains. The place is always packed & the service is less than speedy, but it’s definitely worth the wait.

• St. Germain Bistro was recommended by one of my Instagram followers & is a favorite of repeat visitors. Despite the fact that it was packed & understaffed the day we visited, it still gets thumbs up for me for their American-style brunch. Silky poached eggs, sweet Nutella & croissants & a great $19.99 brunch deal make this an ideal Sunday morning spot. Best of all, we enjoyed chatting with the owner, who thanked us for coming to visit & reiterated how much they need visitors to return.

• Marmalade was recommended by many people & is often cited as the best restaurant in Puerto Rico. We enjoyed the three & four-course tasting menus & the romantic ambiance. It definitely is not traditional Puerto Rican food – everything from the food to the wine list is distinctly European-feeling – but a nice upscale dining experience.

Exploring History in Old San Juan

Despite the fact that we’ve been to San Juan previously for a few hours on a cruise stop, we weren’t bored at all during our stay. Both forts, which are run by the National Park Service, are worth exploring for a few hours. The views up & down the coast are worth the price of admission alone. Visit both Castillo San Cristóbal & Castillo San Felipe del Morro within 24 hours & your $7 admission ticket is good for both sites.

Take some time during your visit to walk along the Old City Wall, La Muralla. A path, Paseo del Morro, follows the outside of the wall along the water, curling around the tip of del Morro. Through a little creativity (& walking through the grass), visitors can access del Morro from the walking path. 

For a different perspective of the city, hop on one of the harbor’s tour boats. We enjoyed an impromptu tour with San Juan Water Tours & saw the city from the water for just $10.

If a stretch of sand is more your speed, several of the world’s best beaches are located on the island, some within 20 to 30 minutes of the city. Snorkeling & diving tours operate from the east side of the island, with many of them up & running. The only tropical rainforest in the National Forest System, El Yunque, suffered major damage in the hurricane, but volunteers & forest system employees are working hard to get it back up & running.

You Should Book a Trip to Puerto Rico Right Now

I’ve gotten more questions about our trip to Puerto Rico than I have from a trip in a long time. I’ve told everyone the same thing: go. Book a trip to Puerto Rico. Old San Juan is lovely & open for business – & they really need our tourism dollars.

The post Why You Should Book a Trip to Puerto Rico Right Now appeared first on My View from the Middle Seat.

• We kicked off the year spending a week escaping life in San Diego.
• In February, I flew to Ohio & surprised my Dad for his 60th birthday.
• I spent my birthday in March plane spotting in St. Maarten.
• April saw a surprisingly pleasant business trip to Pittsburgh, a new city for me, & a quick trip to Ohio
• May was an extremely busy month for me professionally, with trips to Chicago & two trips to NYC
• In June, I hopped across the pond in partnership with Visit Holland for a whirlwind tour of Dutch country & popped back up to NYC for a business trip.
• We spent 4th of July in Alaska, America’s last true wilderness & some time at the end of the month seeing family & friends in Ohio.
• In August, I got to check a bucket list item off my list, thanks to a quick business trip to San Fran: driving over the Golden Gate Bridge in a convertible!
• Our Labor Day tradition of spending a few days lakeside in the Finger Lakes was renewed this year.
• We spent six glorious days eating our way through Italy in September.
• Thanksgiving was spent at my Dad’s in Ohio & we spent Christmas at my in-laws in Florida.
• And, despite my very adventurous return from Italy & final few months of the year, I’m on the mend & ready to hit the ground running next year!

The only month I didn’t fly somewhere this year was in September!

Top 10 Instagrams of 2017

My “top nine” on Instagram weren’t actually photos I really liked, so here are my own, personal, favorite top 10 from Instagram in 2017:

Of course, on our first day back from our California vacation, the weather in DC is positively miserable. So tonight I’m dreaming of a week ago, when we were sipping sunset drinks amongst one of San Diego’s most beautiful settings. Hat tip to my brother-in-law for letting me borrow his sunglasses for a quick photo.

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Jan 23, 2017 at 4:19pm PST

Findlay Market is Ohio’s oldest continually operating public market. Located in Cincinnati’s rapidly gentrifying Over the Rhine neighborhood, Saturday’s are bustling with produce vendors, street performers & locals doing their weekly grocery shopping.

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Feb 18, 2017 at 8:47am PST

Yesterday was my 12 year DC-a-versary. My life now looks nothing like it did when I moved here on two weeks notice as a naïve, eager 22 year old, ready to take on Capitol Hill & the world. Now I’m on my 4th DC job & I have a husband, a house & a new home. I’ve lived in DC twice as long as I’ve ever lived anywhere else in my life &, shockingly, I’m okay with that. the Lincoln Memorial, looking gorgeous on my commute home one evening last week

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Mar 1, 2017 at 5:20am PST

If you need me, I’ll be here. Forever. #islandgirl

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Mar 16, 2017 at 3:39pm PDT

The Rose Reading Room in the NY Public Library’s stunning Schwarzman Building is reopen after a two year restoration – & it looks more stunning than ever! The library is one of my favorite places in the city – you can just feel the history within the walls.

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Mar 27, 2017 at 9:18am PDT

Tonight, I am really wishing this was my view. from our climb out of PHX during an unexpected layover in January

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Apr 20, 2017 at 5:04pm PDT

#NoFilter necessary in this stunning summer day in Rotterdam! I walked 11,000 steps all over the city, exploring interesting architecture, eating way too much at the food hall & zipping through the river on water taxis. I’m totally smitten with this hidden gem in Holland! #thisisHolland #loverotterdam

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Jun 18, 2017 at 9:07am PDT

Our ship didn’t make it down the Tracy Arm Fjord during our Alaskan cruise because there was to much ice (heck, we barely made it half way down Endicott Arm!). But luckily, we had already registered for a small ship excursion which meant that we were one of a handful of people on the ship that got to see this magnificent place. I am now officially obsessed with the landscape of fjords & cannot wait to head to Norway to explore their dynamic fjords!

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Jul 16, 2017 at 11:46am PDT

Even in the touristy center of Florence, there are magical non-tourist moments to be had if you look hard enough.

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Oct 10, 2017 at 2:50am PDT

The light at the Colosseum this morning was absolutely amazing! Golden hour makes 8am tours worth it! Snaps to @walksofitaly for two awesome (non-sponsored) tours in this trip. Our guide at the Colosseum & Forum today & at the Vatican yesterday we’re both top notch. They’re a tour company I’ll definitely be using again!

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Oct 7, 2017 at 7:00am PDT

Top 10 Blog Posts of 2017

These were the top 10 blog posts that you loved, read & commented on in 2017! I love how varied they are:

1. Cruising to Alaska on the Celebrity Solstice
2. Plane Spotting in St. Maarten
3. Hotel Review: Four Seasons Prague
4. Exploring Prague by Walking Tour
5. 31 Tips for a Great Trip to Rome
6. Cruising to Alaska on the Celebrity Solstice 
7. Hotel Review: Sonesta Maho Beach (this makes me so sad…. the hotel is closed indefinitely because of the devastating impacts of Hurricanes Irma & Maria. I’m looking forward to returning to my beloved St. Maarten – hopefully soon!)
8. Exploring Budapest
9. 48 Hours in Rotterdam
10. 49 Hours in Richmond, Virginia

#17Booksfor2017

I actually read 18 books in 2017! I loved so many of the books I read this year, it’s hard to narrow it down to my favorite. Do you love to read? Join me in my quest to read 18 books next year & add your 2018 favorites to my hashtags #18booksin2018.

#17booksfor2017 Book 18: What will likely be my last book of the year was possibly my favorite piece of fiction I read this year. The story of a Russian aristocrat sentenced to house arrest in one of Moscow’s grand hotels, the story was captivating, the writing lovely. Don’t be intimidated by the length of the book – it’s an easy read.

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Dec 17, 2017 at 7:25am PST

#17booksfor2017 Book 17: I loved this book. A wonderfully written tale of @wheresandrew’s journey from Washington, DC to Antarctica on a bus (yes, seriously), juxtaposed with a memoir of his life growing up gay in the Mormon church (& meeting his husband Brian). This book left me a mess of emotions, not only because I’m lucky enough to call the author a friend, but because of our mutual shared experiences growing up in Ohio & being bullied in school. My 17th book was an easy read, but is best devoured two chapters at a time. And don’t worry: I already started book 18!

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Nov 29, 2017 at 8:03pm PST

#17booksfor2017 Book 16: I know this was a critically acclaimed book… but I just don’t know. I thought it was about 300 pages too long & actually about 4 books in one. I liked the overall plot of the book, but there were so many subplots… ugh! I don’t know what to think. Have you read it? What did you think?

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Nov 4, 2017 at 6:21am PDT

#17booksfor2017 Book 15: This book left me gutted. Maybe it’s because I read it on the plane on the way back from Italy with my medical emergency. Maybe it’s because my heart is still broken over the death of my Nonna. Maybe it’s because I also am the best version of myself while I’m traveling, but am so darn clumsy at it sometimes. Maybe because @theeverywhereist is my spirit animal/long lost twin/mess of emotions fairy godmother. Anyway: you should read this. It’s really good.

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Nov 2, 2017 at 7:19pm PDT

Social media often (rightfully so) gets a bad rep for only highlighting the glamorous side of life. So I’m here to share reality: on Friday, while in Rome, I suffered a hernia. It has been getting progressively more uncomfortable as our days have passed & walking has become more challenging. On Monday I visited an English speaking doctor in Florence who confirmed it wasn’t appendicitis (which was great news). I am very limited in what I can do – we’ve had to adjust our schedule to basically do one thing per day so I can rest. Yesterday, we made the heartbreaking decision to leave Italy tomorrow & not continue onto Bologna & Venice. My guilt for this is ample, as I feel like I’m ruining what was supposed to be our romantic anniversary trip. But there’s no point in continuing when it’s so physically challenging for me to get around & could benefit from seeing a doctor in the U.S. sooner rather than later. I am emotionally exhausted – this certainly isn’t at all how I envisioned this much anticipated trip going & there’s nothing more humbling than being unwell while traveling in a foreign country. This morning, while B runs to the cheese shop across the river, I’m staying in bed with a cappuccino, a whole lotta Nutella, a book & a little self care. I’m determined to have a wonderful last day in this beautiful county. PS this is also book 14 of #17booksfor2017! Such a great one full of emotions & intertwining stories. Loved it!

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Oct 11, 2017 at 1:19am PDT

#17booksfor2017 Book 13: I really wanted to like this book! It has everything I love: travel, bookstores, France, a cheesy romance. I just couldn’t get into it, though, & slogged through.

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Sep 12, 2017 at 9:17am PDT

#17booksfor2017 Book 12: I picked this book up on a whim at the Amsterdam airport, fueled by jet lag & a new found love of everything about Holland. I read most of it on my flight home, but then it sat on my bedside, waiting for me to finish the last 100 pages. My brain moved onto Alaska & ballerinas (my 11th book), but my heart knew I couldn’t leave this one unfinished. Fascinating history & hundreds of random facts on the Netherlands, written by a British ex-pat who also fell in love with the country. Would recommend to anyone planning a trip there!

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Jul 17, 2017 at 5:31am PDT

#17booksfor2017 Book 11: Well, I only managed to read one book on this trip, which pales in comparison to the 5 books I read on our Caribbean cruise last year (too much time spent whale watching this time!) If I was only going to read one, though, this was a good one to read.

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Jul 8, 2017 at 5:59pm PDT

#17booksfor2017 Book 10: I love @mindykaling’s wicked, dry sense of humor &, like many people, think we could be BFF’s in real life. Added bonus that I finished her book while swaying in my backyard hammock.

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on May 30, 2017 at 7:11am PDT

#17booksfor2017 Book 9: I really enjoyed this book – & am so clueless I didn’t even know it was being made into a movie with Tom Hanks & Emma Watson! The story does not end the way you think it will, which was oddly satisfying. I read my first Dave Eggers book in high school (“A Heartbreaking Work of Staggering Genius”) & have enjoyed everything I’ve read of his since.

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on May 11, 2017 at 4:48am PDT

#17booksfor2017 Book 8: Unsurprisingly, I loved this book. The editor, rather famously, published a previous anthology of essays written by various famous people saying good riddance to NYC. She got a lot of flack for it because, like me, there are a whole lot of people madly in love with New York City. So she published this as a bit of an apology – an ode to the city. I really enjoyed this collection of stories about all the little things that make the Big Apple so addicting. I especially identified with this passage by author Jason Diamond: “Hemingway wrote about Paris being a movable feast, the kind of place that stays with you for the rest of your days once you’ve truly experienced it. That’s what this place feels like to me. No single city truly affects a person like New York does.”

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on May 6, 2017 at 11:07am PDT

#17booksfor2017 Book 7: this book just gutted me. I didn’t want to put it down. I didn’t want to pick it back up. It’s an incredibly moving story of two heroic sisters living in WWII occupied France. History… it is cruel.

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Apr 24, 2017 at 8:20pm PDT

#17booksfor2017 Book 6: The Nest was my vacation read! I loved the book & the intertwining stories of what money does to families. Great read (even if you’ve accidentally bought the large print version!)

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Mar 21, 2017 at 5:29pm PDT

#17booksfor2017 Book 5: Woah nelly. My mind is spinning from this book. It’s a gut wrenching look at racism in America. White readers will spend the majority of the book feeling uncomfortable; I would love to hear from African Americans who have read it. Oh & know going in that the ending is totally bizarre (reading reviews online, it doesn’t seem that I’m alone in that assessment).

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Mar 15, 2017 at 2:09pm PDT

#17booksfor2017 Book 4: When I’m looking for a new book to read, I usually pick from a long list of recommendations from friends, coworkers & magazines I have saved on my phone. But occasionally I also browse the “what’s popular” section on the library’s e-book site, which is how I stumbled upon this book. I had never heard of the prequel or the movie or the author, but knew it was popular so I thought I would give it a go. I can’t say it was the most high brow thing that has ever been written & the story was somewhat predictable, but it was an enjoyable commuting read, so I’ll take it.

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Feb 28, 2017 at 6:14am PST

#17booksfor2017 Book 3: It has been a long time since I’ve read a book in less than a week, but I couldn’t put this one down! I know it has been out for a few years, but for some reason I never picked it up (haven’t seen the movie either). Compared with my last two books, it was a relatively easy, short (about 250 pages) read &, honestly, it was really nice to read something relatively uplifting. I thought the main character was going to disappoint me in the end, but she came through. If you haven’t read this ode to Ireland & NYC yet, it’s worth your time.

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Feb 4, 2017 at 7:10pm PST

#17booksfor2017 Book 2: Oof, this was a heavy one (& not just because it ran almost 500 pages). Interconnected storylines tell the tale of the inhabitants of a small English village during WWI. A little Downton Abbey, a little Saving Private Ryan. Great, gripping read.

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Jan 29, 2017 at 10:35am PST

#17Booksfor2017 Book 1 done: A gripping, non-fiction account of the death of a young man who gave up everything to hike solo in the Alaskan wilderness. Who is ready for an adventure?

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Jan 14, 2017 at 8:19am PST

Here’s to 2018 everyone!

I can’t wait to see what the year is going to bring. I’m starting it off with a big life change: I’m getting a new job! I’m so excited to start my dream job on January 8th & I promise to share more about it as soon as I can (so follow me on Twitter!). Things might be a little quiet around here as I get settled, but I promise I’ll be back.

The post Best of 2017 appeared first on My View from the Middle Seat.

Oh, Vienna! What an amazing city! We had a lovely, long, COLD day in Wein today, gawking at architecture, sipping hot mulled wine (& collecting mugs!) & hopping from market to market. This is the largest, in front of the stunning city hall building. This year, they also added an ice skating rink!

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Dec 6, 2016 at 10:34am PST

Such sad news out of Berlin today. The Christmas markets are such a source of festive joy across Europe – we loved getting caught up in the holiday spirit while we were shopping. Thoughts with those who were injured & killed in today’s attack. a happier time at the Salzburg Advent Market

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Dec 19, 2016 at 2:00pm PST

I debated about continuing to post happy Christmas Market photos from our trip in light of yesterday’s events in Berlin. But after thinking about it a bit, I decided that if I stop, they win. So post I shall & I hope others do too. Christmas markets are meant to be a place for family, friendship & festive spirit. So please go to the markets & travel – & be safe doing it.

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Dec 20, 2016 at 4:16pm PST

Day 1 of the Christmas markets in Budapest has been amazing! A little overwhelming at first (especially with jet lag…), but once we got our mulled wine & chimney cake (a local delicacy of dough cooked over hot coals and dipped in a topping (we had cinnamon)) we were market hoping like pros. Can’t wait to get on @vikingcruises tomorrow! St. Stephen’s Basilica and the Old Town Market

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Dec 3, 2016 at 1:05pm PST

Gingerbread (or Lebkuchen in German) was created in Nuremberg, Germany over 600 years ago. Their Christmas market has gingerbread in every shape & size, including some beautifully decorated, like these ornament cookies. Traditional Nuremberg gingerbread is also gluten free!

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Dec 23, 2016 at 4:08am PST

The size & scale of Nuremberg’s main Christkindl Market is hard to convey in one photo. They get about 2 million visitors a year & it’s one of the oldest & largest in Germany. The day we were there, a mild, sunny Saturday afternoon, we were ill-prepared for the crowds. But instead of being overwhelming, we found great energy as we moved through the 200 or so booths. It was packed with people, but no one was pushing or shoving or rude, just happy to be there & festive. This is the view from balcony of the Church of Our Lady & shows about 1/3 of the main market. There are also several smaller markets, including a children’s market & a market featuring booths from Nuremberg’s sister cities around the world. On these last few shopping days before Christmas, wishing everyone visiting markets a safe time.

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Dec 22, 2016 at 4:32am PST

More glühwein, anyone?

A post shared by Christina (@travelsips) on Dec 9, 2016 at 2:29pm PST

All is calm, all is bright. After a whirlwind week, getting back into the swing of things, digging out from email & wrapping & shipping Christmas gifts, tonight we’re going to have a few friends over to toast the holiday season. Wishing everyone a calm, peaceful Saturday night, wherever in the world you find yourself tonight.

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Dec 17, 2016 at 2:26pm PST

Wishing you a calm, bright, safe, joyous, Instagrammable holiday season!

The post Europe’s Festive Christmas Markets via Instagram appeared first on My View from the Middle Seat.

2. Stay off the beaten path. Our stay at the D.O.M. Hotel was down a quiet, non-touristy street, but within easy walking distance to everything.

3. Reservations at Hostaria Romana are a must. This chaotic, loud Roman institution is as authentic as it gets: no one speaks English, the tables are super close together & it’ll be the best meal you’ve ever had.

4. The Monti District is home to winding side streets & tasty local eateries.

5. A stroll along the Tiber River at night can be as romantic as strolling through Venice.

6. Rome’s subway is basically useless for tourists (it’s not near anything), so pack your walking shoes.

7. A food tour is a great way to beat jet lag on your first day in Rome & the Testaccio Supper Stroll is the perfect way to explore a new neighborhood, along with cocktails.

8. Finding non-touristy places to eat in Vatican City can be challenging. Yelp (or in our case, an English speaking seminarian from Chicago) can be helpful in finding a solid lunch place.

9. Piazza Novena is the perfect place to people watch  & munch on a gelato. Make sure to pop into the breathtaking church, St. Agnes.

10. A guided tour of the Roman Forum is extremely helpful in covering the large site. Most tours end inside, leaving you time to explore on your own. Our combo Walks of Italy Colosseum/Roman Forum tour was unexpectedly enjoyable.

11. If the line is out the door at the Pantheon, stop by at another time. We walked in on a Thursday afternoon with no line. The oldest building in Rome is definitely worth seeing.

12. Celebrating a special occasion? The view from Aroma is absolutely stunning & the tasting menu is artfully prepared.

13. You’d be hard pressed to convince me to visit the Spanish Steps again. They’re steps. And a lot of people. And not much else.

14. Interested in attending Sunday Mass at St. Peter’s Basilica? Get there at least an hour early to get through security & line up inside the massive church to get a seat.

15. The Colosseum recently opened a section of the fifth level. If visiting it is important, make sure it’s included in the tour you book (ours does not).

16. Rule of thumb for finding good food off the beaten path: walk five minutes away from the touristy thing. Turn off the main road onto a side street. Turn onto another side street. Find perfect local place to eat.

17. Looking for authentic gelato? Keep an eye out for geloterias that serve pistachio gelato that isn’t bright green (it means they’re using real pistachios & not food dye) & gelato that isn’t piled sky high (too much air in their recipe).

18. Taxis cannot be hailed on the street, like in the U.S. Look for taxi stands at major squares & tourist attractions or ask your hotel or restaurant to call for one.

19. The National Monument of Victor Emmanuel II offers a lovely view across the Roman cityscape.

20. Like much of Italy, Romans enjoy aperitivo & a late dinner. The only people who eat dinner before 8pm are the tourists.

21. In addition to the ticketed Papal Audience every Wednesday, the Pope delivers the Angelus Blessing every Sunday at noon. Tens of thousands of pilgrims, Catholics & curious tourists gather in St. Peter’s Square starting about 30 minutes beforehand. Regardless of where you stand, if you can see the window with the little banner (the Papal Apartment), you’ll be able to see the Pope (who will basically look like a white dot). The Angelus is delivered in Latin & Italian.

22. Depending on what time your flight arrives, the express train which runs every 30 minutes from the airport to the main train stations might be faster than a taxi. We sat in quite a bit of weekday morning traffic on the highway from the airport into Rome.

23. Have some Euros on hand: while all restaurants took credit cards, many preferred cash (especially for small purchases like gelato).

24. Climbing St. Peter’s Dome means stunning views of the city. But even if you purchase the more expensive elevator option (€8 vs €6), you still have to climb about 200 stairs up to the cupola (hernia optional). If you’re mobility challenged, the views just off the elevator on the roof are still nice & there’s a small gift shop & cafe.

25. Italians don’t do “to go” coffee. Pop into an espresso bar & stand at the counter while you down a coffee in a few sips.

26. Do not get a rental car in Rome – parking is terrible & driving within the city center is extremely limited.

27. It’s true: the Trastevere neighborhood has great restaurants & a different vibe than the rest of Rome. I regret that we weren’t able to eat there.

28. Many hotels include breakfast. If yours doesn’t, or you want something different, stop by a grocery store to pick up provisions. They seemed to be on every corner.

29. If you need to pay for your taxi with credit card, make sure to confirm they take it before hopping in – some do, some don’t.

30. Looking for authentic pizza? Real pizzerias won’t serve individual pies at lunch time because they don’t turn their ovens on until dinner. If you’re in the mood for pizza for lunch, look for slices.

31. Like in much of Italy, a little bit of Italian goes a long way. A well placed “Ciao!” & a smile will get you far as a visitor in Italy’s Eternal City.

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Nesim, our guide who was born in my hometown of Washington, DC & raised in Testaccio, guided us through the neighborhood where the culinary movement started in the city, way back in Roman times. Testaccio was ground zero for where shipments of food from the far corners of the empire arrived. Considered to be the culinary heart of Rome, the neighborhood is also tied to a slaughterhouse which shut down in 1975 after 90 years of work. The neighborhood built up around it to house those workers – & their hearty Italian appetites. Testaccio is named after a large hill in the neighborhood which is composed entirely of broken fragments of the pots that were once used to bring food from across the Empire to this corner of Rome.

Palombi: Aperitivo Stop

Our first stop was the first stop for many Italians at the end of the day: at a bar for a spritz & snacks, known as aperitivo. Palombi, a restaurant founded in 1917, served as an olive oil & wine emporium during the war & was recently restored back to its original intention as an osteria. We drank bitter Aperol Spritz & munched on traditional taralli cookies. Romans believe the bitterness of the spritz prepares your body for a meal; across Italy there are variations on the spritz. Aperitivio perfectly encapsulates everything that is right with Italy: friends gathering socially before dinner to have a few drinks & enjoy life, before tucking into the evening meal. It’s like American happy hour – only better!

Mastro Donato: Traditional Roman Street Food

Our second stop was for traditional Roman street food called fritti. These fried appetizers can be everything from seasonal vegetables (which is what we enjoyed) to salted cod to squash blossoms stuffed with anchovies & mozzarrella. Mastro Donato, the pizzeria we stopped at to enjoy fritti & prosecco, also serves up some of the best pizza in Rome. We enjoyed hearing from the owner about how to find quality, authentic pizza: super thin crust with personal sized pie. The best pizzerias only fire their wood ovens for dinner (not lunch!) when serving the entire pizza. Pizza for lunch is served Sicilian style by the slice. We had really authentic pizza & really touristy pizza during our time in Italy – but they were both way better than pizza in the U.S.!

Masto: #allthecheeses #allthemeats

B’s favorite stop on the food tour was at Masto, a trendy meat & cheese bar down a quiet side street specializing in the “slow food” (or as we call it in the States “farm-to-table”) movement. Our group took up most of the small space, as Italians popped in for a glass of wine after work. The store is unique in that it sources directly from the producers & has to agree with all the practices of the producers. Their producers use all local ingredients, so everything in the store is seasonal. We enjoyed a sampling of a variety of meats, cheese & two types of local wine.

Ristorante Aneglina: the best pasta in Rome

My favorite stop on the tour was home to the best pasta I had in Rome: Pasta alla Gricia. This Roman specialty is made out of four ingredients: high quality pasta cooked perfectly al dante, guanciale (cured pork jowl), Pecorino Romano (nutty, salty) cheese & black pepper. Angelina’s was so perfectly cooked, I could eat it for every meal for the rest of my life.

While there, we also enjoyed two other traditional Roman dishes: coda alla vaccinara (oxtail) & trippa alla romana (tripe). Organ meat might not normally be my usual choice, but they were both done very well & I enjoyed the bites I had (they dry red wine helped wash it down!).

Trapizzino: Pockets of Yumminess

While we were totally stuffed at this point, our last two stops offered a glimpse into casual dining for Romans. Trapizzino, a local chain which started in 2008 & has spread to 7 locations across Rome & 2 in Florence, is a tiny carry out place creating small handheld pockets of doughy goodness. Think a pizza folded up into a triangle for portability. The name “trapizzino” is a play on words meaning in-between – it’s a snack meant to be eaten between meals. But unlike American fast food, which can be greasy & unsatisfying, the quality of the ingredients & cooking were just as high as at the sit-down restaurants we had visited. My chicken trapizzino was excellent; I could definitely see the place becoming a weekly habit for me if I lived nearby. Unfortunately, their only U.S. outpost (for now) is in New York City.

Giolitti: Traditional Gelato at its Finest

Our last stop on the tour was arguably the best – at the very least, it was the best gelato we had in Italy. Serving the Testaccio neighborhood since 1914, Giolitti is now being run by the 4th generation of the same family that founded the shop (an official government symbol hanging in the shop denotes this distinction). My cup of chocolate & pistachio gelato got a nod of approval from the owner behind the counter (he assured us he would not let us pick a weird combination) & was topped with a dollop of homemade whipped cream made from the same machine they used in the ’30s.

At this stop, we also learned some tips on how to tell good gelato from bad gelato – tips we used all through our stay in Italy. The places that pile gelato into mountains, high above the edge of the container? Bad – it contains too much air. Look at the colors: mint should be white or very light green, not bright green; pistachio (my personal favorite) should be brownish yellow, not bright green! The best gelaterias are always willing to offer a sample.

Wandering Testaccio

In addition to all the delicious food we sampled on the tour (it might be the first food tour I’ve ever been on where I didn’t leave hungry at the end!), we also enjoyed just wandering around the Testaccio neighborhood. Since Nesim had lived in the neighborhood for decades, he knew many of the shops & stories behind the architecture we were seeing. We stopped to gawk in shop windows at handmade arancini (fried risotto balls which are like heaven in your mouth), suppli (arancini’s Roman cousin, which are oblong & stuffed with mozzarella) & fresh pasta. Next time we visit Rome, I definitely know which neighborhood we’ll be staying in!

Know if you go…. 

– Our Testaccio Supper Stroll included alcohol with every stop, although non-alcoholic beverages were also available. If you’re a non-drinker, or are bringing children along, there’s an afternoon version of the tour which isn’t as beverage focused.

– Bring a bottle of water with you! You’re going to want something to balance out the booze. Water was offered in carafes on the table at the Angelina’s stop.

– There is definitely a lot of walking involved, so wear comfy shoes.

– The meeting point isn’t hard to find, but it’s definitely off the beaten path from the touristy parts of Rome. We sprinted through the Trastevere neighborhood to get there – I definitely wish we had left ourselves more time.

Note: I was provided with a small discount by Eating Italy for my & B’s food tour. This discount in no way influenced my opinion of the tour & I retained full editorial control over content. The food tour was just really good & definitely worth paying full price for!

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How to Get There

While Richmond is definitely a driving city (you’ll want a car, one way or another, in town), you can fly there through the nimble Richmond International Airport or take the Amtrak train to the gorgeous historic train station downtown.

When driving from DC, down the worst stretch of road for traffic in the entire country, pack your patience, consider not leaving Friday afternoon & get the heck off I95 & wander Virginia’s lovely backroads.

Where to Stay

The Jefferson Hotel has been a Richmond institution since 1895. A fire nearly destroyed the hotel in 1901 (during the evacuation of the lobby’s famous Thomas Jefferson statue, he was dropped, causing his head to pop off – oops). But Virginians banded together & she reopened in grand splendor in 1907.

One of my favorite stories about the hotel is the property’s previous occupants: pet alligators, who lived in the Palm Court, under the shadow of the massive marble Jefferson statue. Richmonders & hotel guests contributed their alligators to the collection, which is just mind-blowing to think about! The last gator left in 1948, but the little guys pop up in details all over the property.

Our Grand Premiere Room (their most popular room category) was luxuriously comfortable, with a huge king-sized bed, a marble-filled bathroom (complete with soaking tub!) & even a little dressing area. Attention to detail does not go unnoticed, from an in-room Nepresso machine to a robe & slippers placed on the bed during turndown service, to a TV in the bathroom mirror. Any hotel room where I can soak in the tub & watch college football at the same time sounds good to me!

One of the best things about staying at the Jefferson? Amenities that are provided a la carte or as part of a resort fee are complimentary! It’s almost unheard of for a luxury property to provide free wifi, yet the Jefferson does. Daily newspapers, high end toiletries & staff who embrace southern hospitality make the Jefferson Hotel the perfect place to stay.

Where to Eat Dinner

Richmond’s food scene has exploded since our last visit, nowhere more so than the Scott’s Addition neighborhood. This transitioning former-warehouse area is now home to the majority of Richmond’s craft breweries & restaurants are popping up to feed hungry beer lovers. We had a great dinner at the (admittedly, kind of randomly Alpine-themed) Brenner Pass. And while diving into a giant pot of bubbling fondue during one of Richmond’s humid summer evenings might not sound appetizing, I can assure that that as soon as the weather breaks, it’s the best place to be. Make sure & request their homemade hot sauce, which comes in a cute dropped bottle. Other highlights included the beef tartare, creamy meatballs & polenta, & crispy arctic char.

Next door is their adorable coffee shop/market/wine bar, Chairlift.

Where to Brunch

The Jefferson Hotel hosts nearly 400 people every weekend for their famous brunch. Featuring over 100 items, it’s impossible to leave hungry. Everything from a raw bar to make your own pasta station to custom omelets to a towering dessert spread. Some of my favorite bites included their fall-themed desserts (pumpkin. spiced. cupcakes), the pull-apart Jefferson bread & their special eggs benedict. Brunch is $45 for adults & includes bottomless mimosas, coffee & juice. Reservations are a must & Sunday brunch usually sells out weeks in advance.

Where to Drink Beers

While Richmond now has more than 20 craft breweries, one of them stands taller than the rest. Hardywood Park has long been brewing some of my favorite Virginia beer. Their production campus includes plenty of shaded places to sit, a live music stage & even a bocce court. In the fall, their Farmhouse Pumpkin is a must. Their RVA IPA might be my favorite beer in the entire state.

What to Do

The Carytown neighborhood is full of funky vintage & boutique stores. A stroll down Cary Street means bookstores, coffee shops, a day spa which does a fantastic pedicure & enough vintage shops to redo your entire closest. Some of my favorites include Virginia Diner (which sells all Virginia-made or themed items), Merrymaker Fine Paper (I love paper stores), Walkabout Outfitter (a Virginia-based outdoorsy store) & Ladles & Linens for housewares. I had an excellent pedicure at Perception Organic Spa & could have bought every single thing in Mongrel card store. Stop by The Daily for lunch – I enjoyed their veggie burger with an Asian twist.

History buff? Check out Hollywood Cemetery & the Southern White House & Museum of the Confederacy. And, with all the debates going on around the U.S. (& especially Virginia) on the presence of Confederate monuments, a drive down Monument Avenue is certainly thought provoking. For something less controversial, check out some of Richmond’s well-preserved historic homes.

Know if you go…

– Richmond is the perfect weekend getaway if you’re visiting the Washington, DC area or perhaps one of the nearby historic areas of Williamsburg or Yorktown.

– If you love amusement parks, tack another day onto your trip to visit nearby Kings Dominion.

Note: Our stay at the Jefferson Hotel & brunch were provided compliments of the property. Our dinner at Brenner Pass was provided by Visit Richmond (however we picked the restaurant). My View from the Middle Seat retains all editorial control over these partnerships – I would have done the exact same itinerary on my own!

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I’ve been thinking about how to write this post for over a week. The second day of our much anticipated anniversary trip to Italy, the day I climbed 320 stairs to the top of the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica (totally worth it, BTW), I got what I thought was a pulled muscle in my hip. It persisted as was walked all over Rome, but it was more annoying at first than painful. Fast forward three days later & I am walking through the streets in Florence in tears. I knew it wasn’t a pulled muscle &, thanks to Google, prayed it wasn’t appendicitis. I suspected it was a hernia. €60 & a visit to a friendly English-speaking doctor later (turns out going to the doctor in Italy is much cheaper & more efficient than going to the doctor in the U.S.), & my suspicions were confirmed: I had a hernia on my lower right side, the most common place for women to get them.

After my appointment, we laid on the bed of our hotel room, hot, angry tears streaming down my cheeks. As I stared up at the frescos covering the ceiling, emotionally exhausted, B & I debated what we should do. Three days later, we were scheduled to go onto Bologna for one night, & then onto Venice before heading home. This meant two more train rides, two more times dragging luggage around, two more hotels. The prospect of moving that many more times was exhausting; I was in so much pain, I could barely walk down the street without doubling over, let alone carry any luggage. I could walk 5-10 minutes at a time, so the prospect of getting endlessly loss in Venice, something I was so looking forward to, sounded scary.

We decided to end our trip three days early. Instead of heading to the Florence train station on Thursday to continue onto Bologna, we would head to the airport & go home. Phone calls were made, plane tickets rebooked (an expensive proposition at $1700 each – always buy travel insurance, friends!), hotel rooms cancelled, doctor’s appointments made, dreams of wandering the back alleys of Venice & eating our way through Bologna, dashed.

Social media often (rightfully so) gets a bad rep for only highlighting the glamorous side of life. So I’m here to share reality: on Friday, while in Rome, I suffered a hernia. It has been getting progressively more uncomfortable as our days have passed & walking has become more challenging. On Monday I visited an English speaking doctor in Florence who confirmed it wasn’t appendicitis (which was great news). I am very limited in what I can do – we’ve had to adjust our schedule to basically do one thing per day so I can rest. Yesterday, we made the heartbreaking decision to leave Italy tomorrow & not continue onto Bologna & Venice. My guilt for this is ample, as I feel like I’m ruining what was supposed to be our romantic anniversary trip. But there’s no point in continuing when it’s so physically challenging for me to get around & could benefit from seeing a doctor in the U.S. sooner rather than later. I am emotionally exhausted – this certainly isn’t at all how I envisioned this much anticipated trip going & there’s nothing more humbling than being unwell while traveling in a foreign country. This morning, while B runs to the cheese shop across the river, I’m staying in bed with a cappuccino, a whole lotta Nutella, a book & a little self care. I’m determined to have a wonderful last day in this beautiful county. PS this is also book 14 of #17booksfor2017! Such a great one full of emotions & intertwining stories. Loved it!

A post shared by Christina Saull (@middleseatview) on Oct 11, 2017 at 1:19am PDT

The mood on our trip actually lightened a bit after we decided to leave: I felt comforted knowing that by the end of the week I’d be home & seeing a doctor. B didn’t have to spend half the day guessing what was wrong & carrying my stuff all over the place. 80% of my long list of things I wanted to do in Florence was cut: no sunrise photo shoot along the Arno, no sunset drinks from a rooftop someone told us about or no wandering to find a hidden aperitivo spot in the residential neighborhood we had discovered earlier in our trip.

For two days, I made a few short trips out of the hotel as I could: a visit to Accademia to see the David (while B did our Rick Steves podcast walking tour, I sat on a bench & looked at David’s impressive tush). An express tour of the Ufizi where I walked really slowly, but still got to see beautiful art (& for once that week, the tears were not sad, but at the beauty in Botticelli’s Primavera). Dinner at a rowdy trattoria which served the best chicken breast I’ve ever eaten. And a magical carousel ride in the Piazza della Repubblica, where Brad gave me an anniversary ring & told me he loved me. Determined, I walked down Florence’s streets gelato in one hand, the other hand free to grab my abdomen every few steps to try & stop the feeling that someone was punching me in the hip.

Our last night, we drank Aperol Spritz at a touristy place right on the Piazza della Duomo. In the shadow of the Duomo’s baptistry, watching the world go by, talking about our favorite moments in the trip. Our drinks were insanely overpriced, the aperitivo snacks tiny & it was the kind of place I’d normally hate going to. But on the trip that almost nothing went right, I was oddly okay with the ending.

Sadly, this story doesn’t have a happy ending – well, not yet at least. We made it home just fine, thanks to some very kind Lufthansa ground crew who helped us get through the Frankfurt airport on an electric cart. The day after we got home, I spent all day at the doctor’s, going through a number of tests (including an emergency ultrasound to rule out a life threatening condition). I met with a surgeon a few days later, but need to get a second opinion due to a possible complication from a condition I had as a child. Turns out it’s hard to get surgeon appointment, so my next one isn’t until October 30th. In the meantime, I’ve been trying to catch up at work & stay off my feet. My emotions have shifted to anger & I’ve spent much of the time I’m not at work throwing myself a pity party. But I’m trying hard not to mourn the part of the trip we lost. Because, after all, we still spent six amazing days in Italy celebrating ten years of marriage – & that’s not something most people can say.

The post I Got a Hernia in Italy and I’m Really Angry About It appeared first on My View from the Middle Seat.

Refreshed Rooms

The first thing I noticed was how bright & airy our room was. Their Deluxe King guest rooms are anchored by a giant, extremely comfortable king bed, which is surrounded by soothing neutrals & accents paying homage to Virginia’s growing wine country. Little details, like the bar cart, an extensive programming guide & photography of local wineries, really make the room. Bathrooms were renovated with chunky slate tile floors. Most importantly: the hotel has strictly enforced quiet hours every night resulting in a restful night. Don’t feel like getting out of bed in the morning? Fellow DINKs will love breakfast in bed for two. It includes mimosas, coffee, breakfast entrees, pastry & a copy of the Washington Post!

Guest-Friendly Resort Programming

The one thing I always felt like Lansdowne was missing was proper resort programming. It has always been an awesome place for golfing & the spa is dreamy… but that was largely the extent of it. Post-renovation, they’ve brought in complimentary guest-friendly programming that matches the season & covers a variety of interests.

We arrived early enough on Saturday to participate in the cooking demonstration, where Chef John taught us how to make crab cakes from scratch. Lansdowne’s cooking programming emphasizes local ingredients, which was especially fun to experience since we’re local.

Sunday morning was shrouded in mist & fog, but that didn’t stop our nature hike. The resort has a number of walking paths & nature trails, including ones that lead down to the banks of the Potomac River. The hike was guided by a local historical reenactor, who told us the story of Thomas Lee, who Leesburg is named after & whose family owned the land the resort now sits on (& is no relation to Robert E. Lee). Sometimes these history walks can be a bit cheesy, but this one struck the right balance of local history & the guide naturally breaking character to chat about current events. Next time, when the weather is better, we’ll tackle some of the local hiking trails.

Other programming the weekend we were there included a cart-in-movie (like a drive in movie with golf carts), a number of fitness classes & lots of kid-friendly activities. But we enjoyed lounging by the fire pit, checking out the pool & exploring the resort’s beautiful gardens.

On-Property Dining

As part of the renovation, Lansdowne completely revamped their on-property dining options. Gone is the stuffy high end restaurants & dated bar, & in their place are a local-farm-to-table option & a traditional golf clubhouse bar. We enjoyed sipping a local beer while watching college football & chatting with the friendly bartender at the bar of Pub 46.

Dinner at Coton & Rye

Dinner Saturday night was at the resort’s main restaurant, Coton & Rye. Things started off a bit spotty, with a long delay in service & a waiter who couldn’t describe any of the dishes or local wine offerings (they have a number of partnerships with Virginia vineyards). Finally, the food & beverage manager stepped in & took over our table (& several others). Things really looked up when the food started rolling out. Creamy deviled eggs topped with truffle oil & snacks of picked vegetables & homemade beef jerky tasted just like grandma’s farm. Their signature turkey pot pie fell flat (& isn’t very pretty to look at), but the surprise winner of dinner was the huge mustard-crust pork chop & perfectly crisp handheld apple pies for dessert. The atmosphere of Coton & Rye is a little confusing: it’s trying to be a nicer restaurant, but with TVs on the wall & no natural light, it actually feels more like a bar. While the food was excellent, it was on the higher end of the price point I’d expect to pay for the atmosphere.

Off-property, there is nothing within walking distance, but a short drive into Leesburg is worth it for the dining options there. Favorites include the soups & sandwiches at South Street Under & the imaginative wine flights at The Wine Kitchen (go early – no reservations & the place is tiny!).

Gateway to Virginia Wine Country

The best thing about Lansdowne’s location is their position at the gateway to Virginia’s growing wine country. Every Saturday, the resort runs a shuttle bus to nearby wineries & breweries. While my favorite Virginia wines are a little further south, there are still some good sips to be hard (& a few very good breweries nearby, including Lost Rhino).

Know if you go… 

– The hotel charges a $32 per day resort fee, which is higher than most of the resorts I’ve stayed at. Regardless of your feelings on resort fees, it’s important to know about it in advance. Theirs includes parking, wifi, bottled water, use of the pools & large fitness center (many locals use it as their gym), use of the golf driving range & (during certain months) a free round of golf.

– The resort is dog-friendly & we saw many well-behaved four-legged friends during our stay.

– Lansdowne focuses on healthy living, including a very impressive oncology-focused spa program

Note: Our stay, amenities & meals were not provided compliments of the hotel.
The resort fee was waived the evening of our stay.

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White Pass Railroad

After meeting our group on the cruise ship pier, we made our way to the White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad. This famed train route took us 14 miles up the side of the mountain to the trailhead. It was neat to ride on an old, historic train into the wilderness to the trailhead. The train stopped, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, & our group got off with all our hiking gear. More than a few of the tourists on the train looked at us with puzzled faces as we stood in the rain while their dry train pulled away.

Laughton Glacier Wilderness Hike: Hiking in Alaska

We booked our excursion through Celebrity Cruises, but it was actually run by an awesome local company called Packer Expeditions. Our guides, Ryan & Jack, were both from the lower 48 & were hanging out hiking in Alaska for summer jobs. Our hike started off in forest wilderness on a clearly marked trail, past a rushing glacial river. As we transitioned onto a rocky path with a clearly marked trail, we stopped for a snack & to visit an outhouse (arguably the most luxurious outhouse in Alaska) which Packer Expeditions maintains on the route. After that pitstop, we moved onto a rock scramble with no trail at all. We hiked on the unmarked trail for what seemed like forever before arriving at the base of the ice, slapping on crampons & tackling Laughton Glacier.

Hiking Laughton Glacier

Laughton Glacier, a hanging glacier, will eventually disappear since it doesn’t have a source to replenish itself. I’m happy to report that the hike didn’t feel as vertical as our glacier hike in Iceland, so no tears this time. While we were hanging out on the glacier, a few of the adventurous hikers in our group rappelled down a bit into a carvass & drank out of a glacial fresh water stream.

After lunch on the glacier (again, all in the pouring rain – I was so cold at this point), we split up into two groups: one that started heading back (me) & one that went another mile up the glacier to the snow line (B). On our way back down, we took our time, admiring the flower & fauna along the way. The hike was moderate – challenging at times, but also do-able at the pace we went. However, we were racing the clock back at the trailhead to catch the train at a certain time.

Back on the White Pass Railroad

Back on the train, we pealed off wet clothes – because even the best waterproof jacket isn’t waterproof after eight hours in the constant rain – & warmed ourselves by the train’s tiny wood burning stove. It was exhilarating riding the train down the mountain back into town knowing what we had just done. The entire time, I was beaming with (exhausted) pride. I had eight miles of hiking in Alaska under my (soaking wet) belt.

Know if you go… 

– Many cruise lines offer this excursion. Descriptions on the excursions website sound scary – don’t be intimidated! If you’re in moderately good shape, you can do it.

– Lunch consisted of sandwiches we made on the train on the way up, water, snacks & hot chocolate (which the guides made right on the glacier). Hikers are given a hip pack which contains snacks & a water bottle holder & we also brought a backpack (which held my DSLR camera for most of the trip). Both guides carried 40+lb packs with everything from rescue gear to a first aid kit to camping gear.

– It was, without a doubt, one of the most beautiful hikes we’ve ever done. We even spotted mountain goats off in the distance! For the first time on our trip, we really felt the wilderness of Alaska.

What to Pack

We went back & forth as to whether we had dressed too warmly for this hike. Ha! Hiking in Alaska was like no other hike – at least two more layers would have been nice. My outfit: a long sleeved-wisking fabric t-shirt, a fleece & a winter ski coat my wide brimmed hat. I normally wear this hat for sun protection, but it was great to keep the rain off my face.

My thin gloves would have been enough, until I remembered halfway through the hike they weren’t waterproof & Ryan let me borrow an extra pair of knit gloves he had (but my hands were basically freezing the entire time). I also brought a knit wool beanie cap, which I was glad to have post-hike on the train.

The saving grace was my shoes: my trusty Merrell waterproof hiking shoes were perfect for all the terrain we covered &, most importantly, they kept my feet dry. Paired with my trusty Darn Tough wool hiking socks & my feet were good to go.

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