As the end of summer approaches, there are a few vegetables that, when I see them, seem to be saying, “Time’s running out.”  Bell peppers (capsicum being the formal name) and green beans, while available year-round at every supermarket, are particularly plentiful now.

In the past, bell peppers were primarily available in green, and seeing a red or yellow bell was unusual.  Today, though, it seems to be the exception when I see green and more the rule to see red, orange, yellow and sometimes even purple or brown.

These colorful sweet peppers add both visual appeal and texture (when used raw) to many savory dishes.  To my palate, green peppers notwithstanding, they all taste about the same, so selecting the most beautiful specimen is my rule of thumb.

At last Wednesday’s Santa Monica farmer’s market, Tutti Frutti had such a lovely display, not buying some peppers became an impossibility.   Bell pepper recipes often lean towards the “stuffed” variety, but green bean recipes, excluding the ubiquitous Thanksgiving “green bean casserole”, seem to offer more variety.

Speaking of green bean recipes and green beans, in general, as with peppers, similar rules of availability apply.  The common breed (Bluelake) and even the slender “French” haricots vert are available year-round in supermarkets.  But through the summer, at local farmer’s markets, you can find them in yellow and, sometimes, purple.

As I’m bracing myself for the inevitable slide into “sugar season”, it seems timely (and wise) to fill up on that which is nutritious and low(er) calorie.

Mixed Bean and Bell Pepper Salad
Serves 4

If you’re unable to find yellow (or purple) beans, double up on the haricots vert.  True, it won’t be a “mixed bean” salad, but it’ll be equally tasty.

12 oz haricots vert (or any green bean)
12 oz yellow beans
2 bell peppers (any color except green), seeded and sliced into 1/2” strips
2 1/2 T olive oil, plus additional for roasting the peppers
2 1/2 T capers, rinsed and patted dry
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 tsp ground cumin
2 tsp ground coriander
2 scallions, thinly sliced
1 T fresh tarragon, roughly chopped
2 T chervil leaves (or, if unavailable, a combination of parsley and dill)
Grated zest and juice of one lemon
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Method

Preheat oven to 400.  Bring a medium saucepan of salted water to a boil.  First add the yellow beans.  After 2 minutes, add the French beans and cook for about 3 more minutes.  (Remove one of each bean, taste to make sure they’re cooked but still somewhat firm)  To stop them from overcooking, drop the cooked beans into a bowl of ice water.  When cool, remove to a clean kitchen towel and pat dry.

Toss the pepper strips with a splash of olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and place on a rimmed baking sheet.  Roast for about 5 minutes (until tender), then add them to the peppers.

In a small saucepan, heat the olive oil.  Carefully add the capers, being aware that they may splatter.  Now add the sliced garlic and saute for about 30 seconds.  Add the cumin and coriander, stirring to coat the garlic and capers with the spices.  Remove from the heat and immediately pour over the bean-pepper mixture.  Add the sliced scallions, herbs, lemon juice and zest, 1/2 tsp salt and several grinds of fresh pepper.  Toss to combine.

This salad is great either warm or at room temperature, and can be made up to one day in advance.

With fall at our doorstep, it may be time to begin thinking about cooler weather foods.  Before they all fill up, take a look at the autumn catalog and reserve your spot.

We look forward to seeing you in the kitchen!

Cindi

Here in southern California, we’re fortunate to have fresh figs in season twice a year.  They first come into season in the spring, but then make a second appearance in the late summer and stay plentiful through the fall months.

Many growers at our local farmer’s markets carry a variety of figs, most commonly Black Missions, Calimyrna, Kadotas and Brown Turkeys.  While the Kadotas are primarily used for drying, the other three varieties, when ripe, are exquisite.

Relatively versatile, fig recipes run the gamut from raw (sliced with a small chunk of cheese) and baked (tarts and folded into breads for middle Eastern savory snacks) to long cooked (braised with poultry) and dried (used in stuffing).

When selecting fresh figs, looks can be deceiving.  It’s important to know that figs don’t continue to ripen once they’ve been picked, so the fruit you’re after should look as though it’s about to burst open.  Many growers won’t let you touch the little gems because they’re so fragile, but if you can sneak a gentle squeeze, they should yield to your fingers and barely spring back.

Because I couldn’t decide which fig recipe I most wanted to share, I’ve decided to post two options: a fresh fig salad and an adaptation of Thomas Keller’s fig-balsamic jam.

Fig and Hazelnut Salad

serves 4

Figs are always a welcome addition to a salad.  In this version, hazelnuts and roasted red onions round out the dish.  While I’ve used sherry vinegar, balsamic would work equally well.

2 small red onions

a heaping 1/4 cup toasted hazelnuts, roughly chopped

1/2 small head of radicchio, leaves roughly torn

1/4 cup fresh basil leaves (torn, if large)

1/4 cup watercress (leaves and tender stems only)

6 ripe, fresh figs (preferably Black Mission)

1 1/2 T extra-virgin olive oil (plus extra for roasting the onions)

1 T sherry wine vinegar

1/4 tsp ground cinnamon

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Method

Preheat oven to 400.  Peel onions, leaving root end intact.  Cut each onion in half, lengthwise, then each half into three wedges.  Place on a rimmed baking sheet, drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.  Roast until onions are soft and golden, about 30 minutes.  Remove from the oven and allow to cool.  Once cool, discard any hard layers and, using your hands, break the onions into bite-sized pieces.

Mix together the radicchio, basil and watercress.  Place a handful of leaves on each of four salad plates.  Slice the figs, lengthwise, into four wedges.  Place a few wedges, along with some of the roasted onion, on each of the plates.  Continue layering, finishing with the figs and onions.

In a small bowl, whisk together the oil, vinegar, cinnamon, salt and pepper.  Drizzle dressing over the salads and serve immediately.

Fig-Balsamic Jam

Makes about 3 cups

After waiting in line for 3 hours for a signed copy of “Ad Hoc at Home” by Thomas Keller, the first recipe I made was this fig balsamic jam.  Since then, I’ve made batches of this sweet-tart jam and given it as gifts along with a loaf of walnut bread and some bucheron cheese.

2 lbs figs, preferably Black Mission or Kadota

1 1/2 c granulated sugar

1/2 c balsamic vinegar

1/2 tsp salt

1 tsp black peppercorns, tied into a sachet, or 1/4 tsp freshly ground pepper

Fresh lemon juice to taste

Method

Combine the figs, sugar, balsamic vinegar, salt and pepper in a large saucepan.  Attach a candy thermometer.  Over medium-high heat, bring the mixture to a simmer, then reduce the heat, maintaining a gentle simmer.  Cook, stirring to break up the fig pieces, but keeping a fairly chunky consistency.  When the jam reaches 215 degrees, remove from the heat.

If you’ve used a sachet for the peppercorns, remove it.  Add lemon juice to taste.  Spoon the jam into clean jars.  Cover and allow to come to room temperature, then refrigerate for up to 1 month.

These are but two fresh fig recipes to try while the fruit is in season.  If you’ve made the fig-balsamic jam and aren’t sure how to use it, a dollop atop a goat cheese crostini makes a great hors d’oeuvre!

The holiday’s are fast approaching.  Check out our Autumn catalog for classes designed around seasonal favorites along with a bevy of ethnic and skill-building classes.

We look forward to seeing you in the kitchen!

Cindi

Recently, I was contacted by a Malibu family that is looking to hire a private chef.  They asked if I’d be available to come to their home and cook for them; an “audition” of sorts.

Although this request may not be made of you, it got me thinking: What do you cook for people whom you really don’t know?  How do you ensure that the dishes are vibrant and appealing?  These are questions we often ask ourselves when we’re having someone new to our homes, attending a potluck, or simply looking to add some variety to our everyday meal planning.

Ever notice how sometimes, the simplest answer is simultaneously the best answer?  That notion may never be more accurate than when you’re cooking.  Ingredients that are fresh and in season will always taste better than those that are not.  Period.

Labor Day, the unofficial “end of summer”, may only a week away, but the stalls at the farmer’s market are still overflowing with peppers, eggplants, green beans, ears of corn and summer squash.  Remember, when you begin with fresh, high-quality ingredients, it’s infinitely more likely that your finished dish will be equally high-quality.

As beautiful as the eggplants and peppers are, it won’t be long before the winter squash brigade begins creeping in.  In a way, I’m looking forward to using my oven again; I miss roasting.  Autumn is when I many people return to cooking, so the posting of the fall catalog is welcome news.

Besides seasonal favorites like Holiday Sides and Autumn Pies, several different ethnic classes are on the schedule.  Jet Tila is back and will be teaching both Chinese Dumplings and Asian Grilling & Chilling.  If that’s not enough, award-winning cookbook author Neelam Batra will be inspiring us with  Winter Curries  and California Masala, a afternoon where we’ll make our own masala mixes and use them to flavor traditional “California Cuisine”.

As usual, I digress.  Amongst other seasonally appropriate vegetable dishes, I prepared this grilled zucchini salad with hazelnuts and Parmesan.  It comes together in about 15 minutes, and that includes time to heat the grill pan.  As pretty as it is, it would have been even more visually appealing had I used a combination of zucchini and yellow squash, but I can keep that in mind for next time.

Grilled Zucchini with Hazelnuts and Parmesan

Serves 4 as a side dish

1/3 cup hazelnuts

1 3/4 lbs zucchini

4 T olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tsp balsamic vinegar

1 1/4 cups small basil leaves

3 oz Parmesan, broken into small pieces or shaved using a vegetable peeler

2 tsp hazelnut oil (optional, but worthwhile)

Preheat the oven to 300.  Scatter the hazelnuts on a baking sheet and toast for 10 minutes or until lightly browned.  Remove from oven and rub between the layers of a doubled dish towel to remove the skins.   Allow to cool slightly, then roughly chop and set aside.

Heat a ridged grill pan (or outdoor grill) until very hot; about 5 minutes.

Trim the ends of the zucchini and cut them on a sharp angle into 1/2″ thick slices.  Place them in a bowl and toss with half of the olive oil and some salt and pepper.  Place the slices on the hot grill pan and char-grill for about 2 minutes on each side.  It’s important to allow the vegetables enough time on the grill pan to get the distinct marks, but not so long as to cook them through.

Transfer the slices to a mixing bowl, drizzle with the balsamic vinegar, toss and set aside.

Once the zucchini is cool, add the remaining olive oil, the basil and hazelnuts.  Mix lightly, then taste for seasoning, adding additional salt and pepper if necessary.  Transfer to a serving platter, top with Parmesan and drizzle with hazelnut oil.

I hope you enjoy this as much as the family in Malibu did, and I look forward to seeing you in the kitchen!

Cindi

p.s…..Yes, I got the job.

There’s a difference between the abstract and the absolute.  In the abstract, I love brownies.  I crave the shiny, shattered, candy-like top juxtaposed against the chewy, fudgy center.  Not too sweet, but with a deep, dark chocolate flavor.  But in the absolute, my ideal brownie rarely exists.  They’re often dry and cakey rather than chewy and fudgy.  And even though I only use the highest-quality bittersweet chocolate, the flavor frequently lacks depth.

One day, I was lamenting my brownie woes to my pal, Grace.  Grace and I met in Professional Baking where she ran rings around everyone, myself included.  She told me that the brownie I seek, the one not dissimilar in texture to the boxed mixes, yet infinitely more flavorful, is made using cocoa, not chocolate, and the recipe I want is from renowned baker and cookbook author, Alice Medrich.  Hmmm.  A brownie made without chocolate?  I’m not so sure….

Often a skeptic but always tenacious, I had nothing to lose.

Eureka!  If you’re a fan of the aforementioned chewy brownie with the shiny top “crust”, this is for you.  But what if you’re not a chocolate lover and brownies aren’t to your liking?

If you’re a fan of baking in general, the posting of the Autumn catalog is holds many new opportunities to hone your baking skills.  In this country, fall is pie season, and the New School of Cooking is your “go-to” source for perfect all-butter pie dough.  Join May Parich for Autumn Pies where each student will make their own pie (to share with the class) and everyone goes home with slices of many fall classics.  Cookies more your to your liking?  Mark your calendar for the weekend of December 17 and choose from either session of our Holiday Cookies class where, amongst other items, you’ll learn how to make homemade graham crackers.

Back by popular demand, an evening Professional Baking series begins Tuesday, November 15th.  Not ready for such a lengthy commitment but still craving the good stuff?  Baking Boot Camp is our 3-week series for novice bakers.  Your family and friends will be delighted each week as you present them with the fruits of your labor, and you may never purchase baked goods again….I know I haven’t.

And the sweetest thing ever?  Candy class!  Just a couple of seats remain, so don’t delay.

Everyone here at the New School of Cooking is dedicated to providing you with an exceptional learning experience and environment.  Before you know it, the holidays will be here.  Cooking for your loved ones is truly a heartfelt way to show how much you care.  We’re here to help, and we look forward to seeing you in our kitchen.

Fudgy Cocoa Brownies

From “Bittersweet: Recipes and Tales from a Life in Chocolate” by Alice Medrich

Makes 16-25 brownies (depending on the size you like)

10 Tablespoons (1 1/4 sticks or 5 oz) unsalted butter

1 1/4 c (9.875 oz) sugar

3/4 cup plus 2 Tablespoons (2.875) oz unsweetened cocoa (either natural or Dutch process)

1/4 tsp salt

1/2 tsp pure vanilla extract

2 large eggs, cold

1/2 c (2 1/2 oz) all-purpose flour

Preheat oven to 325.  Lightly coat an 8″ square baking pan with non-stick spray.  Line the pan with foil or parchment, allowing for an overhang to aid in removing the cooked brownies.

In a heatproof bowl, place the butter, sugar, cocoa and salt.  Place bowl in a large saucepan of lightly simmering water.  Stir until the butter melts and the mixture is hot to the touch.  Remove the bowl from the water and set aside to cool slightly, then add the vanilla, eggs (one at a time, and mixed thoroughly before adding the second) and finally, all at once, the flour.  Stir the batter just until the flour is mixed in, then vigorously stir 40, yes 40 times.  (I’m just following instructions….)

Scrape the batter into the prepared baking dish and bake for 20-25 minutes or until a toothpick comes out looking dirty, but not wet.

Allow to cool, then, using the foil/parchment overhang, lift the brownies from the pan and cut into squares.  These are best enjoyed the day they’re baked, but wrapped well, they’ll be just fine for 2-3 days.

I hope you enjoy these as much as I do!

Cindi

Happiness comes in many forms.  It could be a cool breeze, a smile from a stranger, a well hit golf ball, hearing “yes” when you expected to hear “no”.  Besides traversing the San Diego Freeway with minimal traffic, for me, happiness comes every Sunday morning as I weave my way through the Hollywood Farmer’s market.  Seeing many of the same people, week after week, builds a sense of community.  You can almost feel the respect paid to the hard-working farmers who carefully lay out their harvest, anticipating our needs and tempting us with some fruit or vegetable we hadn’t previously considered.

“Summertime, and the living’s easy”.  It’s been hot and humid this week, and when the weather is this tropical, I immediately crave summer “comfort” foods, those which evoke the casualness of both the season and the city in which I’m fortunate to live.  Often, I’m looking for something with some heat…not “heat” as in temperature, but “heat” as in spice.

Spicy foods, by nature, are stimulants and raise the body’s temperature.  It stands to reason, then, that if you’re in a warm climate, eating spicy foods can make you feel cooler.  Why?  Because eating these foods can induce sweating, hence they diminish the difference in temperature between you and the surrounding air.  And, as perspiration evaporates, the body cools.

Perhaps it’s more than a mere coincidence that many regions where the weather can get quite warm, such as Mexico, Thailand, Vietnam, spicy food, with its stimulating effect, are very popular.  Remember back to a time when you were particularly hot.  It’s likely that your appetite was suppressed; you had no interest in eating.  Nutritionally speaking, an appetite stimulant would be warranted in tropical climates, and the effects of peppery foods do just that.

It may have been fortuitous that, with the recent heat, I saw a pile of poblano peppers last week, and I immediately knew what to do.

In case you’re unfamiliar with poblanos, they’re a mild, heart-shaped pepper that has sturdy walls, making them perfect roasting or stuffing.  Like most peppers, while available year-round, they’re best in the summertime.  When fully ripened and dried, they’re called ancho chiles, and are commonly used in Mexican cuisine.

Poblanos are the pepper of choice for one of my favorite Mexican comfort foods, tacos con rajas.  What’s a raja?  Technically, in Spanish, “raja”, means strips, but in Mexican cooking, it refers to chiles that have been roasted, peeled and cut into strips.  Typically, they’re sauteed, mixed with onions and used as a condiment for a variety of meats.  Or, as you see here, stuffed into warm tortillas and served as tacos.

I first had tacos con rajas years ago at a Mexican cooking class I took at the Border Grill.  It was love at first bite.  The slightly spicy peppers were mixed with cooked potato and sauteed onions, creating a warm, earthy taco, perfect with a cold beer, but that’s a different story.

Tacos con Rajas

Serves 4

1 large russet potato, cooked, peeled and cut into 3/4″ cubes

4 T butter

1 large onion, thinly sliced

6 poblano chiles, roasted, peeled and cut into 1/2″ strips

1 tsp salt

1/2 cup heavy cream, or to taste

8 warm tortillas (I prefer corn, but use what makes you happy)

1/3 cup queso cotilla (or feta)

1/4 cup cilantro leaves

Method

In a large skillet, melt the butter.  Add the sliced onion and saute for 5-7 minutes, until soft.  Add the roasted poblano chiles and, over low heat, cook for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.  Add the potatoes, salt and cream and heat, just until the cream begins to bubble.

Remove from the heat and stuff the rajas in warm tortillas.  Garnish with cheese and cilantro.

I’ve always found that the best way to learn about any given cuisine is to visit the country (or region) where that food originates.  Often, though, that’s not possible.  Mexican cooking classes, or, in fact any class devoted to your region of interest, be it Thai, Vietnamese, or Italian, is the next best solution.  Be guided by chefs who are well-versed in the region, from a cultural and culinary perspective, and you’ll walk away with the tools to launch your virtual vacation.

This summer, the New School of Cooking is offering a variety of regional classes, and one is certain to pique your interest.  Visit Southeast Asia with us as May Parich shares her knowledge and passion for the food of Thailand with either Thai Noodles or The Foods of Southern Thailand.  And, if Mexican cooking classes sound enticing, take a look at either Street Foods of Mexico or our three-week Regional Mexico Series where we’ll travel through this country of vast culinary variety, each region distinct and unique.

Perhaps you’re simply interested in comfort food, American style.  In that case, Summer Comfort is for you, with barbecued chicken, stuffed pattypan squash and wine-marinated flank steak on the menu.

It bears repeating: Happiness comes in many forms.  Sharing a meal with those whom you love is near the top of my “happiness inducing” activity list.  Take a look at the summer catalog, find something that interests you, then let us help you hone your culinary skills.

We look forward to seeing you in our kitchen.

Cindi

When the invitation was extended, I thought, “This can’t be true”.  But it was.

Currently, my favorite chef (and cookbook author) is Yotam Ottolenghi, an Israeli-born British transplant with four eponymous restaurants in London and two cookbooks under his belt.  He was coming to Los Angeles to promote his new vegetarian cookbook, Plenty, and would be cooking, for one night only, at, ironically, Animal on Farifax.

There’s something about being in the presence of a great chef that draws me in every time.  (This opportunity was particularly fortuitous because I cook from his books at least once a week, always to rave reviews.)  I’ve waited in line for three hours to have Thomas Keller sign my copy of his book, Ad Hoc at Home; I’ve cooked in the kitchen of Melisse, along side the extraordinary Josiah Citrin; I’ve flown to Paris to attend an underground supper with David Lebovitz.  And now, for nearly 15 minutes, I had a one-on-one conversation with Yotam Ottolenghi.

I consider myself a “lifelong learner” and am always looking for opportunities to tap into the expertise of esteemed restaurant chefs.  Maybe you’ve entertained that notion, but thought, “Now, how’s that ever going to happen?”.

If you’re a fan of sushi, and many Angelenos are, come join us this Saturday, August 6th, as Hama Sushi’s Masayo Onuki unlocks the mystery of preparing Japanese Handroll.  I’ve now worked with Masayo three times, and can confirm how knowledgeable, approachable, talented and patient she is.  (As an aside, she also happens to make the best sushi rice I’ve ever eaten!)

Further on in the summer, on Saturday, September 10, Jet Tila will instruct Grilling and Chilling Asian Style.  In case you’re unfamiliar with Jet, he’s currently the executive chef at Wynn Las Vegas’ Wazuzu restaurant and will be appearing on Iron Chef America next Sunday, August 7.  Both of these classes offer unique opportunities to learn from seasoned professionals and will allow you to harness their expertise and create restaurant-worthy meals in your own home.

Getting back to my Ottolenghi dinner, one of the dishes prepared was called “Tomato Party”.  It’s a salad composed of various types of tomato and couscous, where each tomato variety is “prepared” in a different manner, some raw, some cooked.  Add to that, two different types of couscous were used, contributing textural interest.  Not only is the dish visually spectacular, the flavors would awaken the deadest of palates.  We’re entering the height of tomato season, so this is the ideal time to re-create this seasonal masterpiece.

Mixed Tomato and Couscous Salad (Tomato Party)

from Plenty by Yotam Ottolenghi

Serves 4

4 oz couscous

olive oil

5 oz boiling water

5 oz Israeli couscous (or Fregola Sarda, or a total of 9 ounces regular couscous)

10 oz vine-ripened tomatoes, quartered

3/4 tsp brown sugar

1 tsp balsamic vinegar

5 oz yellow cherry tomatoes

2 T roughly chopped oregano

2 T roughly chopped tarragon

3 T roughly chopped mint

1 garlic clove, crushed

4 oz halved red cherry (or pear) tomatoes, halved

Salt and pepper to taste

Method

Preheat the oven to 350.  Put the couscous in a bowl with a pinch of salt and a drizzle of olive oil.  Pour the boiling water over, stir to combine, then cover with plastic wrap.  Allow to sit for 10-15 minutes, then, using a fork, fluff the grains and allow to cool.

Place the Israeli couscous in a pan of boiling salted water and simmer until cooked, following package instructions.  (Note: if using exclusively regular couscous, double the amount of boiling water.) Drain in a colander and rinse under cool running water.  Leave to dry completely.

Spread the quartered vine-ripened tomatoes over half of a large baking sheet and sprinkle with the sugar and a pinch of salt and pepper.  Drizzle the balsamic vinegar and some oil over the top and place in the oven.  After about 20 minutes, remove tomatoes from the oven and increase the temperature to 400.  On the empty side of the baking sheet, spread the yellow tomatoes.  Season them with salt and pepper and drizzle with some oil.  Return to the oven and roast for 12 minutes.  Remove the tomatoes and allow to cool.

Mix together the couscous and Israeli couscous in a large bowl.  Add the herbs, garlic, cooked tomatoes (with all of their juices), and the red cherry tomatoes.  Very gently, mix together using your hands.  taste for seasoning; you may need to add additional salt and pepper.

Dinner at Animal, featuring Yotam Ottolenghi, was a dream come true, and I continue to be smitten by him and his tremendous talent.  Come join Masao Onuki or Jet Tila (or both!), and heighten your Asian cooking skills.  You’ll be glad you did.

We look forward to seeing you in our kitchen.

Cindi

As casual as we are in Los Angeles, summer is even more informal.  Perhaps it’s the heat that saps us of our energy and makes only the lightest of meals seem appetizing.  Or maybe it’s just me.

I do some of my best thinking when I’m stirring a pot.  Or standing over a grill.  I’ve got some thinking to do, so it’s time to fire up the Weber and grill some shrimp for this week’s summery Asian-inspired soba noodle salad.

Soba (which in Japanese, translates to “buckwheat”) are thin, buckwheat noodles which are traditionally served either cold with a dipping sauce or warm in a broth or noodle soup.  Particularly in and around Tokyo, soba noodles are such a common menu item, they can be found in many restaurants, ranging from the most inexpensive fast-food stalls to the most exclusive establishments.

If they are made exclusively from buckwheat flour, soba noodles are gluten-free.  The brand I buy falls into that category, so if you’re serving someone with a gluten intolerance, check the label.

For this dish, if your supermarket lacks a well-stocked Asian section, you may need to visit 99 Ranch Market, Bangkok Market, or another specialty grocer, but it’ll be well worth the trip.

Summer Soba Noodles with Grilled Shrimp

Serves 4

7 oz Soba noodles

1 1/2 T cilantro leaves, chopped

1 red jalapeno chili, finely diced (with or without seeds, depending on your tolerance for heat)

2 tsp poppy seeds

1 Persian cucumber, seeded and cut into 1/2″ dice

8 oz large shrimp, peeled and deveined

1 T canola (or other neutral flavored) oil

1 handful Thai basil, shredded (or regular basil, if that’s what you can find)

Dressing

1 T lemon juice

1 1/2 T rice wine vinegar (unseasoned)

3 T mirin

2 1/2 T soy sauce

2 tsp sesame oil

3 T shallot, finely chopped

3 T fresh ginger, finely chopped

1/2 tsp salt

Method
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil, and cook the soba noodles for six minutes, until al dente.  (Check your package for cooking time as different brands vary.)  Drain the noodles, refresh in cold water, then spread on a clean tea towel or baking sheet and allow to dry.

Combine all of the dressing ingredients in a bowl and stir well.  Add the noodles, cilantro, chili, poppy seeds, and cucumber, gently tossing to thoroughly combine.

Just before serving, toss the peeled shrimp with a touch of canola (or other neutral-flavored) oil and a pinch of salt.  Place shrimp on a well-heated grill (or grill pan) and cook for about 2 minutes per side, turning once, until just cooked through.  Serve the noodles in a bowl, topped with the shrimp, and a sprinkling of shredded basil leaves.

The solstice was June 21, so it’s officially summer.  Living in southern California, we’re fortunate for many reasons.  Our climate allows for easy access to all of the best summer produce.  Peaches, melons, peppers, tomatoes, and corn are but a few of the pleasures of the season.

Summer classes begin just after the holiday weekend, and they’re going quickly.  Let us help you update your culinary repertoire with some “just for the season” favorites.  Summer Comfort Foods is a great, all-purpose class from which you can easily create numerous party menus.  Indian al Fresco, taught by cookbook author Neelam Batra, is sure to add a new twist to your summer cooking.  Of course we can teach you to grill and introduce you to fresh ideas for Celebrating Summer Vegetables.

“Can’t stand the heat, stay out of the kitchen”?  I’d say, the weather’s going to turn much warmer, so join us in our kitchen.  And, if you’re in the area, stop by for some free cooking demonstrations during the Eat Real Festival being held July 16-17.  Carol Cotner Thompson will be demonstrating pie making and May Parich will show you how to make, roll, fill and cook fresh pasta.

With classes to suit every level of cook, the New School of Cooking is just the place to learn something new or hone your existing skills.  We look forward to welcoming you into our kitchen!

Cindi

Of course, the shopping was superb (and I have the quintessential “little black dress” to show for it), the buttery croissants addictive, the chocolates extraordinary, the macaron delightful, both visually and texturally.  We had cocktails at the Bar Hemingway, drank rose with virtually every meal, and savored every bite.

On my first night in town, I joined CJ and her new beau, Eric, for a prix-fixe dinner at  Restaurant l’ Ardoise.  I’m uncertain which I enjoyed more: the conversation or the meal.  While the conversation is not likely of interest to many, my lentil du Puy salad with lardon may, in fact, be.

In case you’re unfamiliar with lentils du Puy, these green lentils were originally grown in the volcanic soils of Puy, France.  Sometimes referred to as “the poor man’s caviar”, lentils du Puy are especially good for salads because they hold their shape and have a rich, yet subtle, earthy flavor.

Today, these pulses are grown outside the Auvergne region in France, but only those with the A.O.C. designation (Appellation d’Origine Controlee) are truly lentils du Puy.  The A.O.C. controls not only the geographical location where goods may be produced, but also holds growers accountable for the growing conditions of the crops.  For example, no pesticides or fertilizers can be used on the plants.  Also, crops may not be irrigated and farmers must comply with strict ploughing and sowing dates.  Lentils du Puy were the first vegetable to join the ranks of the A.O.C., taking it’s just place alongside Roquefort cheese, champagne, and Dijon mustard.

In this recipe, to add more flavor to the lentils, I’ve simmered them with a bouquet garni.  You can tie the bay leaves, thyme sprigs and parsley stems together with kitchen twine, or simply drop them into the pot with the lentils….just remember to pluck them out before completing your dish.

Aside from the lentils themselves, the other component that made this salad so special was the lardon.  A lardon is a cube or chunk of pork belly, differentiated from American bacon by both its shape and the fact that it’s salt-cured rather than smoked.  Additionally, when prepared, texturally, it’s chewy and meaty rather than crisp and crumbly.  As an ingredient, lardon shine most brightly when slowly rendered in a bit of olive oil.

Shopping for a slab of pork belly may prove a touch challenging, so if you opt for the pork, substituting with pancetta or even thick cut bacon will accomplish the desired effect.

This salad is equally satisfying served either warm or cold, and even gets better as the flavors have an opportunity to marry.  For vegetarians, omitting the pork isn’t a deal breaker, but for pork eaters, I’d encourage trying this dish as-is.

French Lentil du Puy Salad

Serves 6

1 Bouquet garni made of 2 bay leaves, 3 sprigs of thyme and 4 parsley stems, either tied together or dropped into the pot

4 T olive oil

7 oz bacon lardon (if using bacon, slice crosswise into 1/2″ strips)

4 small shallots, finely chopped

1 celery stalk, finely diced

1 carrot, finely diced

1 bay leaf, broken

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 T white wine vinegar

2 tsp Dijon mustard

Pinch of sugar

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1 large handful of Italian parsley, roughly chopped

7 oz soft goat’s cheese, crumbled

Method

Simmer the lentils according to the package instructions, remembering to add the bouquet garni.

While the lentils are cooking, heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil over medium heat in a saute pan or Dutch oven.  Cook the lardon until lightly browned, then remove from the heat and drain on a paper towel.  Returning the saute pan to the heat, add the shallots, celery, carrot and bay leaf.  Saute over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are soft, then add the garlic, saute for a minute, and then, place the sauteed vegetables in a bowl.  Discard the bay leaf.

In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, mustard, sugar and a healthy pinch of salt.  Slowly whisk in the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil.  Taste for balance and seasoning, adding more salt or a splash more vinegar if necessary.

Drain the cooked lentils and discard the bouquet garni.  Add to the vegetables, and toss with the dressing, parsley and a few grinds of black pepper.  Again, taste for seasoning, bearing in mind that legumes frequently require more salt than you suspect they will.  Top with lardon and goat cheese, and serve etiher warm or cold.

I may not be in Paris, but preparing and enjoying this salad brought back tremendously fond memories.  Food does that; there’s an intimate relationship between scent and memory.

Summer is upon us, and the season’s classes are filling up quickly.  Take a look at the catalog and see how we can help you rekindle or create your own memories.  Summer Comfort Foods, always popular, provides an opportunity to prepare seasonal favorites such as grilled chicken with homemade barbecue sauce and halibut with pine nut butter.  We often offer a series of classes devoted to regional foods of a specific country.  This time, it’s Mexico, and May Parich will take you on a culinary tour that begins in Mexico City, travels to the Yucatan Peninsula, then finishes up in Oaxaca.  Perfect for summer!  And vegetarians simply can do no better than A Celebration of Summer Vegetables.  Green gazpacho, summer bread pudding with corn and the most addictive soba noodle salad with sauteed eggplant and mango are merely a few of the dishes to be prepared.

Come join us for a class, a series, or more.  You’ll be glad you did.

We look forward to seeing you in our kitchen.

Cindi

The other day, a very dear friend of mine turned to me and said, “Cindi, your relationship with tomatoes is very complicated.”  Unsure if I should be amused, bemused or insulted by the notion that I carry on relationships with inanimate objects, I dug out my “go-to” phrase from my years as a sales trainer.  “Tell me more about that”, said I, to which he responded, “You seed your cherry tomatoes; unless it’s August or September, and sometimes even then, tomatoes for soups and sauces are always from San Marzano cans; and you question the integrity of restaurants that serve salad caprese at any time other than in the late summer.  Shall I continue?”  Well, no.

Here’s the truth: It’s my goal to eke the best possible flavor out of everything.  Does that make me complicated?  I’d argue I’m deeply respectful of food and wish to highlight each ingredient’s best attribute.  To wit: the seeds in cherry tomatoes are bitter, but if you seed them, then toss them in a quick marinade of olive oil, red wine vinegar, oregano, salt and pepper, that same basket of tomatoes could enliven your salad or be the simplest, and dare I suggest best, fresh pasta sauce you’ve ever made.

Here we are at the cusp of summer.  The tomatoes are just beginning to arrive, and as the weeks pass, the beefsteaks will get beefier.  Then the Early Girl’s will appear, and they’re perfect for any raw application.  Finally, towards the end of the summer, the heirlooms begin squeezing their way into many of the stalls.  Considering those varieties are still weeks away, in my anticipation, I’m getting ahead of myself, so let’s talk about what we can do with what we’re seeing right now.

Each Wednesday in Santa Monica and Sunday in Hollywood, you can find fragrant tomatoes, vine ripened, and grown year-round by Scott Peacock at his eponymous Peacock Family Farm.  Scott’s beefsteaks are ideal for the tomato salsa we’re preparing to spoon over this week’s spring asparagus.

Just a couple of notes before getting started.  First, the asparagus.  Because I was lazy and didn’t feel up to cleaning my grill pan, I only blanched and shocked mine.  I realize that this dish would have been even better had I been feeling a bit more industrious and taken the further step, but so it goes.  Second would be the cheese.  Really, any crumbly cheese you like would do, although I’m particularly fond of young, fresh goat’s cheese, or chevre, specifically from Sonoma County’s Redwood Hill.  Feta would be a nice option, too.

Whatever your options or substitutions, keep this in mind for your summer buffets and bar-b-ques.  The flavors are bright and sufficient to stand up to grilled meats, and when you consider we eat with our eyes first, well, bonus points for you.

Asparagus with Tomato Salsa

Serves 4

1/2 small red onion

1 garlic clove, crushed

2 tsp white wine vinegar

1/2 tsp balsamic vinegar

3 T extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to finish

1 lb asparagus spears, woody ends snapped off

3 small ripe tomatoes, around 8 ounces total

1 T chopped dill

1 T chopped Italian parsley

21 T chopped mint

4 oz fresh goat cheese, crumbled

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

First, cut the onion into 1/4″ dice.  Yes, that’s pretty small, but you don’t want a big bite of onion, and neither do your guests.  Rinse the onion in ice water for 5 minutes to reduce their sharpness, then drain them on a paper towel.  Place the diced onion in a small bowl along with the garlic, both vinegars, the olive oil and a healthy pinch of salt.  Stir, then set aside so both the onion and garlic will mellow a bit more.

On to the asparagus.  Make an ice bath by filling a bowl with ice and cold water.  Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil and drop in the asparagus spears.  Cook for about 2 minutes (depending on the size of your spears), then drain and immediately plunge (I love that word!) into the awaiting bowl of ice water.  This entire process is called “blanching and shocking”.  The ice water stops the asparagus from cooking any further.  When the spears are cooked, remove them from the water and drain them on paper towels.

If, unlike me, you’re a budding Martha Stewart, pull out your grill pan and heat it until it’s almost smoking.  I should have done this, and next time, I promise, I will.  Lay the spears, a few at a time, perpendicular to the grill lines.  Grill just until you have pretty char marks, then remove and leave to cool and continue with the remainder.  It’s official.  Your asparagus look and taste better than mine.  You win.

Core the tomatoes, then quarter and seed them.  Using a sharp knife, cut the tomatoes into 1/2″ dice.  Add the tomatoes and chopped herbs to the marinating onion.  Season generously and stir gently.

Arrange the asparagus on a serving plate and spoon the tomato salsa across the center.  Gently, and I do mean gently, crumble the cheese over the salsa.  Now, for your grand finale, drizzle your best olive oil over the tips of the asparagus, and sprinkle with just a touch of sea salt.

To be clear, I really don’t have relationships, per se, with inanimate objects, but it could be argued that I’m deeply respectful of all that surrounds me.  Whether or not that has always been the case could be subject to debate, but what I know for sure is that after walking through the doors here, at the New School of Cooking, my awareness, desire and ability to coax the very best out of each and every ingredient has become as natural as breathing.

From Carol Cotner Thompson, I learned that how I process garlic has everything to do with how it ultimately tastes in the dish I’m preparing.  You won’t be disappointed if you spend a morning with her learning Summer Cooking with Whole Grains.  Esteemed cookbook author Neelam Batra continues to teach me how to prepare her exceedingly light yet deeply flavorful Indian cuisine.  Indian al Fresco is an ideal opportunity for you to learn to create dishes intended for summer and outdoor entertaining.  All I’ve learned from May Parich is too long a list to enumerate, but I’m pretty proud of my knife skills, and I owe it to her.  She can guide you in either Knife Skills or even Basic Cooking.

Summer classes are filling up quickly, but peruse the catalog and find what suits your fancy.  Then, come join us in our kitchen for a heaping cup of spirited, educational, delicious fun.  We’ll show you how to make the best of the summer’s bounty.  That’s a promise.

I look forward to seeing you in the kitchen!

Cindi

Fava Bean, Herb and Goat Cheese Salad

Serves 4

1/4 cup pearl barley

10 oz shelled fava beans (from about 1 1/2 lbs in the shell, or substitute 10 oz frozen peas, thawed)

1 romaine heart, sliced into 3/4″ ribbons

1 T preserved lemon skin*, minced

1 bunch mint leaves, roughly chopped

1 bunch basil leaves, roughly chopped

1 tsp dried mint

Juice and zest of 1/2 lemon

1/4 c extra-virgin olive oil

Salt & freshly ground black pepper

2 oz (1/4 cup) soft goat’s cheese, crumbled

3/4 tsp pink peppercorns (optional, or simply use additional coarsely ground black pepper)

Method

Place the barley in a small sauce pan with enough salted water to generously cover.  Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer until barley is cooked through, but still has a bite, about 30 minutes.  Refresh under cold water, drain and set aside.

If using fresh fava beans, blanch in boiling salted water for 2 minutes.  Refresh in an ice bath until cool to the touch, then pinch off the tough outer skin.  If using thawed, frozen peas, dip them in boiling water for only 30 seconds, then refresh in an ice bath, drain and set aside.

Place the beans (or peas) in a mixing bowl and add the barley, lettuce, preserved lemon, herbs, lemon juice and olive.  Gently toss to coat, then taste for seasoning.  You may need a touch more olive oil.  You’ll definitely need salt and pepper.  Transfer the salad to serving plates, top with crumbled goat’s cheese.  Crush pink peppercorns with your fingers and sprinkle on top.

*I frequently make my own preserved lemon, but they’re available at the olive bar at Whole Foods.  If you’d like to make them yourself, click on the link and you’ll be directed to instructions by David Lebovitz.

Be sure to check out the new Summer Catalog!  We’re making full use of the season’s best with a Celebration of Summer Vegetables, Indian al Fresco, and Summer Comfort Foods.  And, just to make sure you’re able to hold on to the best produce as long as possible, Preserving Summer , where May Parich will teach you how to can bread and butter pickles, jams, preserves and tomato salsa.

We look forward to seeing you in the kitchen and making memories (and great food!) with you.

Cindi