How long a Betta fish can live for, will largely depend on the level of care and the environment you give them. On average Betta fish live for approximately 3-5 years in captivity. But with the right care and attention, they have been known to live for up to 8-10 years.

In this article, we will be covering everything you need to know to help ensure that your betta fish can be as happy and comfortable as possible; as a happy betta fish is a healthy betta fish.

Buying Your Betta Fish From a Pet Store

One of the most common places to purchase a betta fish is from your local reputable pet or aquarium store. There are other places that can also sell betta fish, but the further away you get from the specialized aquarium industry, the less likely it is that you are buying a healthy fish from quality stock.

We do not recommend purchasing betta fish, or any type of fish for that matter, from service stations, fairgrounds, or even from large bulk/discount chains similar to that of Walmart. This is because these types of resellers are not interested in what’s best for the fish. They are only interested in moving the “merchandise”, and if it dies after being sold, that just means that the customer will have to come back to buy another one.

The extent of the disregard that these types of businesses have for the welfare of their live fish, was brought to light in a video exposé. As of October 2019, Walmart has actually discontinued the sale of live fish in their stores. This decision was made following the backlash from consumers after the release of the video showing the deplorable conditions that they were keeping fish in, the general disregard for the treatment and care of their live fish stock, and the staggering mortality rate that they had as a result.

It is because of these sorts of practices that we implore you to only purchase your betta fish from a trusted and reputable dealer, breeder, or pet/aquarium store.

How Old Are the Betta Fish In Pet Stores?

Even though the average life span of a Betta is 3-5 years, this doesn’t necessarily mean that this is how long your new betta friend is going to be in your life. The betta fish that are sold by most third-party resellers/stores are usually at least a year old already.

Males are given time to grow into their colors and given time for their fins to fully develop. This can mean that when a male betta has been delivered to the store, it could be anywhere between 10-18 months old already.

Females are often supplied at a younger age than males. Most females are supplied to the pet stores at anywhere from 6-12 months of age.

What this means, is that if we were to look at the lower end of a betta fish’s lifespan, you might only have you pet betta for 1-2 years before it inevitably dies. Even less if you were to purchase your betta from a less desirable reseller.

Our Top 5 Tips For Keeping Your Betta Fish Happy and Healthy

It has to be said that genetics can also play a part. A fish bred from a poor quality breeding stock is less likely to be as fit and healthy as a fish who is bred from a healthier and more diverse gene pool. Yet, when it comes to extending the likely lifespan of your little betta friend, there really isn’t any magical trick or hidden secrets behind it.

What’s more important for increasing the likelihood of your betta living a long and healthy life, has more to do with comfort. Stress is one of the biggest issues that all betta fish carers must be mindful of. Stress is a leading cause for most, if not all, sicknesses and illnesses that can affect a betta fish.

If you want your betta fish to live a long and healthy life, it is paramount that you keep them as happy and as comfortable as possible.

Tip 1): Choose the Right Shaped Tank

Notice how the tip was not titled Choose the Right “Sized” Tank? This is because volume and space are not necessarily the same thing. A deeper more narrow 10-gallon tank is no better off for a betta than a standard 2.5-gallon tank. This is due to the depth that a betta feels more comfortable swimming at, and the amount of room that the tank provides the betta to swim around in.

An ideally shaped tank would be a tank that is more shallow and wider, then deeper. In the wild, a betta’s natural environment is similar to that of the rice paddy fields in Southern Asia. This isn’t to say that they only need a small volume of water to thrive. Rice paddies may be shallow, but they are wide and contain a large volume of water for the betta fish to swim around and explore.

To replicate this sort of environment, it would be best to find a tank that can hold 3-10 gallons of water at a depth of 6-8 inches, excluding substrate thickness. This would give the betta enough depth to be able to swim up and down as they choose. It is also shallow enough that they’ll be able to stay close enough to the surface so as to not drown, and wide enough to give them the room to swim around in.

The issue with using a 10 inch or deeper tank, is that betta fish are anabantoids; meaning that they breathe air and need to be able to reach the surface to refill their labyrinth (lunglike organ). They are also surface feeders, preferring floating pellets over fish flakes, and are not prone to swimming to the bottom of tanks that are over 12 inches deep.

What this means, is that betta fish are a top zone swimming fish. They like to remain near the surface to be able to both feed and breathe and would prefer to sleep on leaves, driftwood, or rocks that are closer to the surface, and not at the bottom of a deep tank.

Tip 2): Give Your Betta Somewhere to Play, Hide and Rest

As we mentioned above, a betta’s natural habitat is similar to that of a rice paddy field. Not only does that mean shallow, still flowing waters; it also means reeds, stems, and stalks that they can use to swim in and around.

Adding live plants to your tank doesn’t just make your aquarium look more aesthetically pleasing, it also helps to improve the mood of your betta, making them more relaxed and less stressed. Live plants can give your betta something to interact with, swim around, sleep in/on, and hide among when they feel the need to hide away from predators.

If you do not like the idea of live plants, artificial plants can work just as well. There are hammocks that you can attach to the side of your tank, and almost anything can be used to give your betta fish their own little home to hide and rest in. Just be sure to use plants and objects that don’t have any sharp edges that could catch and tear your betta’s fins.

Tip 3): Maintain Good Water Quality

Water quality isn’t just about water changes, and controlling Nitrogen and pH levels. The water in your aquarium also needs to be kept at a stable enough temperature. If the water temperature was to have sharp spikes, up or down, it can cause shock to your betta’s system, especially if the water goes from one extreme to the other.

• To help avoid spikes from occurring, consider using an automatic heater, rather than an analog heater that you need to turn on and off yourself.

Water flow and filtration go hand in hand. If the water isn’t moving around the tank effectively, areas of the aquarium could develop stagnant water. These pockets of “bad water” can be just as uncomfortable for a fish to swim through as it is for us when we walk into a room that doesn’t get any airflow. It can become hot and stinky, and just make us feel ill.

• One of the best ways to prevent pockets of stagnant water from developing is to design the aquascape in a way to prevent water flow from being blocked by a wall of substrate, rock, or driftwood.
• Another good method is to create a slipstream along one section of the aquarium that pulls water in and pushes it out. If the current is strong enough, it can allow your betta to get some extra exercise by swimming through it. But if the current is too strong, it will bat your betta around, potentially injuring them, and it can kick up the substrate messing up the water quality.

Keep the water well aerated by having live plants or by using airstones. Test the water quality often, monitoring dissolved air levels, Nitrogen content, and pH levels, and perform regular water changes as they are needed.

Tip 4): Keep Your Betta Fish Out of Fights

Many people believe that betta fish are a solitary species that can’t share the aquarium with another fish. This is kind of right, but kind of wrong at the same time. What we mean is that while male bettas need to be kept away from one another, females can live together comfortably. Known as a sorority, several females can be kept in the same aquarium as long as there is enough space for each of the females to retreat to when needed.

So while it may be true that you can not put two males in the same tank, that doesn’t mean that you can’t have any other fish in the aquarium with your male betta fish. Known as tank mates, there are a few species that can happily cohabitate the aquarium with male bettas.

Things to look out for are:

• Large fins/flashy colors – other species that could be mistaken for another male, may trigger the male betta’s aggressive territorial nature.
• Avoid introducing larger fish that could eat the male betta.
• Watch out for the smaller fish that are known to be nippers – these types of fish will bite at your betta’s fins, tearing at them.
• Each species of fish requires a different volume of water, and are comfortable at different depths. Making sure that you do not overstock your tank is crucial for preventing fights. We recommend having a read of our how-to guide for using the online stock calculator AqAdvisor.

Tip 5) Give Your Betta Fish a Balanced Healthy Diet – One That You Can Afford

Providing your betta fish with the best possible diet is one of the best things that you can do for your little buddy. A good diet consists of a variety of feeds, both processed and organic.

For more information on what to feed your betta, please have a read of our article “Best Food for Betta Fish“. In that article, we cover the different types of live foods, frozen, and processed fish foods in greater detail.

There is one very important thing to be mindful of when choosing an appropriate diet for your betta. What is your budget?

A strong budget and quality food go hand in hand. Feeding your betta a poor quality feed runs the risk of needlessly creating health complications. Likewise, if you were to spend more than you could afford, you may not have the funds needed to treat an illness or replace a piece of equipment at a later date.

Always stick to your budget first and foremost. You may even want to look at growing your own live fish food. Growing your own food not only helps to cut costs; it also helps you to control the health value of what you are feeding your betta. Healthy live food equals a healthy snack for your betta after all.

Final Thoughts

That’s it. The secret to having a happy and healthy betta fish that could live for years; boils down to just these five quick and easy tips. These five tips will help to fight off illnesses, as well as improve the quality of life for your betta. Which in turn, greatly helps to increase the life expectancy of your little betta pal.

The post How Long Do Betta Fish Live For? – 5 Helpful Tips For a Long and Happy Life appeared first on Fish Care.

Choosing the Right Tank

Let’s be honest here. You’ve probably read or heard from somewhere, that a 3-gallon tank is far too small for a bettas fish, right? While it’s true that there are many betta fish carers out there that are not fans of the 3-gallon tank; 2.5-3.5 gallon tanks still remain the smallest sized tanks that we could recommend to house your betta.

Some of the concerns relate to those worrying about the amount of room that the betta has to swim around in. A tall, narrow cylinder-shaped tank will hold just as much water as a short, wider tank of the same volume. Even though both tanks can theoretically hold the same volume of water, the shorter, wider tank can actually provide a lot more room for the fish to swim around in. This is because betta fish like to swim around near the top of the aquarium, and are happier swimming around in shallower water, then deeper water.

So if you are serious about setting yourself up a smaller 3-gallon sized aquarium, be sure to look for one that has enough width and length to provide your betta with the room they need to move around in. Most shallow 3-gallon tanks with a water depth of as little as 6-8 inches need to be custom made. A good-sized commercial tank will have a height of between 10 and12 inches. Anything over 12 inches, and you start to lose length and/or width, making the water levels deeper, which is not favorable for bettas. Having a 14″ heigh 3-gallon tank will be wasted on your betta fish.

Decor and Aquascape

One thing that a lot of people overlook, is the type, and amount of decor that they’ll be using as part of their aquascape. All materials, hardscape, or objects that you put into the tank, will reduce the actual volume of water that can fit within the tank itself. So if you are planning on decorating your aquarium with an aquascape, we would recommend looking for a 3.5-gallon tank, as opposed to something closer to a 2.5 or 3-gallon tank.

For information on aquascaping ideas, from minimalistic to detailed scaping, please have a read of our decoration articles:

• Designing an Aquascape
• Betta Fish Homes
• Live Aquarium Plants for Your Betta Fish
• Different Types of Aquarium Driftwood
• How to Prepare and Install Driftwood

Do 3 Gallon Tanks Need Heaters and Filters?

All aquariums, regardless of size, need to have a means for maintaining a healthy environment for your betta. This means that you may require a heater, an air pump with an air stone, and some form of filtration system. When keeping your fish in a smaller volume of water, there is a greater ratio of fish waste to water. As such, you will need to perform more frequent water changes or use an oversized filtration system, to help remove as much ammonia and nitrogen as possible.

For more information on water changes, and how to set up an aquarium, please have a read of the following articles:

• Betta Fish Tank Setup
• 10 Reasons to Cycle your Betta Tank
• How to Do a Nitrogen Cycle for Your Fish Tank
• Cycling a Small Aquarium

Best 2.6 – 2.9 Gallon Tanks

There are a few tanks that fall just shy of 3 gallons. Using these smaller tanks with a more minimalist design will often yield the same volume as a standard 3-gallon tank that has some medium-sized rocks or objects added for decor.

1) Fluval, Spec III Aquarium Kit

This 2.6-gallon contemporary-looking aquarium designed for small areas such as desktops and countertops.

Made of etched-glass with aluminum trim, this compact unit comes with a 31 lamp LED that overhangs the tank. It also has a built-in 3-stage filtration system that can be found on the backside of the tank.

2) Hagen, Marina 360-Degree Aquarium Starter Kit

This small 2.6-gallon cylindrical tank offers an almost 360° point of view of your betta.

The housing unit on the back of the unit contains a pump, filter, and LED light, all of which can be removable for cleaning and maintenance. If you require a heater, there is an optional attachment that can also be installed into the housing unit.

3) Penn Plax, Vertex Desktop Aquarium Kit

Utilizing a bent glass, frameless design, this 2.7-gallon tank comes with a hinged lid. It also includes a hanging water filter, a digital water thermometer, and a fishnet. The frameless design allows for a seamless view of your betta from multiple angles.

3 Gallon Aquarium Tank Designs

There are several different 3-gallon tank designs for you to choose from. Each of the designs offer a different point of view, style or shape that could be used to match your house decor. Remember to keep your aquarium decor and aquascaping to a minimum, so as to avoid reducing the water volume too much.

1) Koller Products, 3-Gallon Fish Bowl

There’s nothing more simplistic than the traditional fishbowl. The most difficult thing about fish bows is keeping any external equipment, such as filters, heaters, or air pump cords, tubes, or connections hidden. They can also be tricky to aquascape effectively if you don’t know how to take advantage of their shape and unique points of view.

2) MarineLand, Contour Glass Aquarium Kit with Rail Light

This particular unit comes with its own desk stand and light. The stand allows you to keep the tank up off the surface of the desk, thus preventing any moisture damage from occurring. The light also allows you to not only switch it on or off, but to also use both day and night settings. The other advantage that this unit has, is that the 3 stage filtration system is concealed in the back of the unit.

3) MarineLand, Silhouette Glass 3 Gallon LED Aquarium Kit

Like so many other MarineLand aquariums, there is a built-in, 3 stage filtration system that is hidden in the back of the unit.

What makes this aquarium different from so many other units, is the unique stand/housing that it comes with. With a flip-down, lift up lid that houses the day/night LED lights, this particular aquarium has a rather slick design and is quite stylish, if I may say so myself.

4) Pisces, AquaTop Curved Bowfront 3 Gallon Aquarium

Do you like the look of a round tank/bowl, but don’t have the desk space to display them? Maybe consider using a half-moon style curved/bowfront tank.

Units like this have a flat back that allows them to be pushed up against a flat surface like a wall, or the back of a bookshelf while providing a clear view of the betta through curved glass.

5) Aqueon, LED Tri-Scape Starter Aquarium Kit

For those of you who would like to put their aquarium in the corner of the room, but find the shape of a rectangle tank off-putting, then this might just be the tank for you.

The triangular design of this type of aquarium makes them ideal for use as a corner centerpiece.

Tanks That Are Slightly Larger than 3 Gallons

If you really want to have a 3-gallon aquarium, but would also like to decorate your aquarium with some aquascaping ideas, then we would suggest using one of the following tanks.

1) Penn Plax, Curved Corner Glass Aquarium Kit

A nice and simplistic, curve corned 3.4-gallon tank. This unit comes complete with a cascade internal filter, LED light, mat, and hinge style plastic lid.

The additional 0.4-gallons will allow you to offset a small amount of aquascaping material.

2) Koller Products, AquaTunes Aquarium Sleep Sound Machine

At 3.5-gallons, this particular half-moon tank comes with a rather unique feature. Along with the built-in filtration system and 7 color LED lighting; it also comes with a hidden set of speakers and prerecord sounds from nature.

With the right combination of micro aquascaping, lighting and soundtrack, you might just find yourself sleeping soundly.

3) Joyfay, Aquaponic Fish Tank

Taking advantage of a filtration system known as aquaponics, the Joyfay aquaponic fish tank, uses live plants and growing media to filter and clean the water.

A design like this will allow you to decorate both the inside of the aquarium and the top.

Final Thoughts

Choosing the tank size that’s best for you is a personal choice. Yet, it is important for you to choose a tank that suits both your budget and your bettas needs.

Smaller tanks can save you some money in the initial outlay costs of setting up your aquarium. But if you might want to get yourself a larger tank later on, or maybe even practice some aquascaping techniques, you might want to look at purchasing a 5-gallon tank instead.

Otherwise, if you are prepared to change the water frequently, and to monitor the pH, ammonia, and nitrate levels, then a quaint little 3-gallon tank might just be the tank for you.

If you want to stock fish your 3-gallon aquarium with fish other than a betta; we recommend using the online stocking and maintenance calculator AqAdviser. For more information on how to use the calculator, please have a read of our article AqAdvisor – User Guide (How to Use It).

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These days the displays that we use, can look as though they were made to be part of a matching living room furniture set. Some of these displays have ornate, artistic designs that help to draw the eye towards the aquarium. They could even have a form and function of their own that allows them to have more uses than just that of a display stand.

Choosing the Right Design For You

Picking the right display unit for your needs is an easy thing to do, yet it can also take some serious foresight. The average 10-gallon tank is rectangular in shape, with dimensions of 20″ x 10″ x 12″. This description and measurements will not apply to all 10-gallon tanks. So first things first, you’ll need to make sure you know the dimensions of your tank.

The size and shape of your tank is one thing, but there are many other things that need to be considered when choosing the right display unit for your aquarium. Here are some of the obvious questions that you’ll want to ask yourself when looking at a unit you have in mind:

• Can it support the weight of your aquarium?
• Is it large enough to cover the dimensions of the tank’s base?
• Do you want to see the whole tank, or do you want the base and/or top concealed?
• Will it be functional for your aquarium setup, and give you access for cleaning and feeding your fish?
• Does it have somewhere for you to store the dry equipment, food, or water testing products?
• Would you mind if stored items are out on display for everyone to see?
• Will you need separate fittings for your lights?
• Does it have a ventilation slot, or will I need to use an appropriate self-leveling mat to help with perspiration on the underside of your tank?

These questions are not the only thing you need to know. There are many other things that you may want to take into consideration before you buy.

This can be as simple as what is the clearance area of where you want the tank. This would not be specifically related to just the floor space. What about the location of the window(s), or the overhang from nearby benchtops or light stands.

Here are some more important factors that you may want to take into consideration well:

• Will the size and shape of the unit make it hard to clean around the area that you want to put it?
• Is the color and design of the unit suitable enough to match the rest of the decor for the room?
• Do you only intend on using it to display your aquarium, or do you want it to have other uses as well?
• Will you be able to assemble or position the display unit on your own?

Here Is The Most Important Question to Ask Yourself

What are the chances that you may want to expand upon the size of your aquarium in the future?

This is arguably the most important question one should be asking themselves before spending any money setting up their aquarium. This is because the size or design of the display unit you buy now, could lock you in at 10-gallon sized tanks; or it could be suitable for use with a large aquarium later on down the track.

Starting off with a 10-gallon tank is a good first step for many new aquarium enthusiasts. It gives you time to get used to managing and developing the skills that are needed to maintain a healthy and thriving aquarium.

Yet this doesn’t mean that everything you use within your aquarium should be suited only for a 10-gallon tank. If there is even the slightest of chances that you may want to upgrade your tank size in the future or even start a 2nd 10-gallon aquarium, then you can save yourself some money in the long run by preparing for it now.

By considering a display unit that is designed to support the weight of a larger aquarium system or one that has a large flat surface, it can allow you to expand upon the size of your system when you are ready to do so.

Different Styles of Display Stands

With the dimensions of your tank and a use and style in mind, let us get down to business and see what styles of stands and cabinets are available on the market place for 10-gallon aquariums.

There are 2 main variations for use to choose from, the humble Display Stand, or the more furniture orientated Cabinet Systems. Both styles have their own strengths and weaknesses.

Display Stands

Display stands are lighter and can take up much less room than their Cabinet counterparts. Where they falter is with their limited use. Most display stands lack additional storage capabilities and functions. Display stands can be more like a high table, with four sturdy legs, or box frame sides supporting the weight. Other display stands may have a base shelf or braces down near the feet, or a shelf that is just under the tabletop, or about halfway down.

Cabinet Systems

Cabinet systems are more like actual pieces of furniture. A good unit will have somewhere for you to feed to power cords, hoses, and cables into the cabinet area, allowing for you to hide the pumps and motors out of sight. They can even have additional storage cabinets or draws, allowing you to use the unit to store other, non-aquarium related, items. The biggest issue with cabinet systems is that they can be larger, bulkier, and heavier to move around when compared to a display stand.

Aquarium Display Stands

The truth of the matter is, a simple high table with sturdy legs or side frames will work just as well as a purpose-built aquarium stand. Just be sure to have it recoated with water resistance sealant, and avoid using one that is poorly constructed. If the legs or tabletop are too flexible or flimsy, they may give way under the weight of the aquarium, dropping your system onto the floor.

1) Aqueon, Forge Aquarium Stand

• Available in 2 tank sizes 20″ x 10″, and 24″ x 12″.
• These stands are capable of displaying a second, smaller, tank on the bottom shelf as well.
• Comes ship as a flat pack, assembly required.

2) Aquatic Fundamentals, 10 Gallon Aquarium Stand

• The powder-coated framework is moister and rust-resistant.
• Available in 2 colors, black, and grey.
• Elegant vein scrolls adorn the sides of the stand.
• It comes as a flatpack but is easily assembled.
• This sort of stand is made to support a 20.5″ x 10.5″ tank. However, it has no side protection to hold the tank in place and the top is only a frame with no center support. What this means, is that the tank could theoretically be pushed off the supports if people, namely kids, aren’t careful.
• We would not recommend placing a second tank on the bottom shelf.

3) Aquatic Fundamentals, 10/20 Gallon Aquarium Stand with Shelf

• Made from moister resistant powder-coated steel.
• This display stand stands at just under 18″ tall.
• The midlevel shelf can be used to store equipment and fish food, keeping them in an easy to access location.
• The midlevel shelf can also be used to support another 5-8 gallon tank.
• Comes as a flat pack, needs to be assembled.
• If you want to have a second10-gallon tank, it would be better to use the bottom shelf. This will avoid making the stand top-heavy, but it may not leave enough room for you to access the tank for cleaning.

4) Imagitarium, Brooklyn Metal Tank Stand

• Sturdy metal tubing and solid welds give this stand an industrial look to it.
• Four adjustable feet make it easy to level the unit.
• If the tank was to be accidentally knocked or pushed back, the 2 center bracing bars can still support the tank. This vastly lowers the risk of the tank falling down the middle of the stand.
• This particular unit appears to be from a mass-production factory. As such there may be issues with parts not aligning correctly.
• If there are any edges that form along the joins at the top, you may need to use a self-leveling mat, or a thick piece of plywood to avoid applying unwanted pressure to the underside of your tank.
• The bottom 3 struts are not part of a shelf. They are braces meant to hold the lower part of the frame together. If you do decide to use it as a shelf, you’ll need to only store light products on there.

Aquarium Cabinet Systems

Aquarium cabinet systems tend to have a more sturdy and robust construction to them. They can be used to enhance the room’s decor, as additional storage space, or even to display your nick-nacks and collectibles. By intent, many of these display units are designed to be usable for both 10-gallon and 20-gallon aquariums. The weight of the aquarium is held up by the solid sides and/or framework of the cabinet, which is then evenly distributed throughout the feet or base. So if you have an old entertainment unit that’s in good condition, you can give it a good coat of water-resistant sealant, and you’re right to go. If the unit is a wide one, you may need to attach some extra feet supports in the middle to help prevent any sagging that may occur.

1) Sauder, 110 Gallon Aquarium Stand

• This is a perfect example of using an oversized display unit to grow into.
• Even though a 10-gallon tank can look small on this particular unit, you can use the extra bench space to display ornaments and figurines, alongside your aquarium.
• The cabinet doors can be used to hide equipment out of sight.
• The extra shelving at both ends of the unit are adjustable and can be used to store books or as a display shelf.

2) Ameriwood, Aquarium Stand

• Similar in shape and size to a common side table, this aquarium stand is capable of supporting up to 240lbs.
• The uniquely positioned cabinet sits in the middle of the stand, which helps to keep your equipment within arms reach.
• This design does have one major inconvenience. With the shelf positioned in the center of the stand, it makes the cavities very short in height. What this does, is that it limits the type of items that can be stored in them.
• You will need to assemble the unit as it will be delivered as a flat pack.

3) Ameriwood, Home Cove Aquarium Stand

• The Home Cove can be used to display a 10-20 gallon tank.
• A good example of a multicompartment aquarium display, with a small central cabinet that is great for concealing your equipment.
• This particular unit has serval cavities that can be used to display or store your items.
• It comes as a flat pack and does require some assembly

4) Aquatic Fundamentals, Gallon Aquarium Stand with Cabinet

• A nice stand and cabinet combination that can support 2 10-gallon aquariums; one on top of the shelf the other on top of the cabinet.
• The cabinet is large enough to store lots of equipment or to even be used to hide a sump tank.
• We would not recommend placing a 20-gallon tank on the top shelf. Some of the reviews we’ve read have not shown much confidence in their structural design. It may be risky to use a 20-gallon tank on the top shelf.
• There will be some assembly needed as this unit comes in a flat pack.

5) Imagitarium, Faux Woodgrain Fish Tank Stand

• Looking for a clean and professional-looking display unit for your office or studio? Then this sleek and contemporary design might just be the unit for you.
• 2 large cabinet doors conceal a shelved storage area that can allow you to separate your equipment.
• The storage area is large enough for you to hide a sump tank along with your equipment.

Final Thoughts

Using the right display unit comes down to both personal choice and suitability. As you can see, finding a stand or cabinet that has been made just for a 10-gallon tank, can be rather difficult. Most units that are available have been made to suit both 10 and 20-gallon aquariums.

If you see a style you like but it’s either too big, too small, or if there are things that just don’t quite make it ideal; maybe look into having a custom-built unit instead. Some pet and aquarium stores can offer you the service. Others may know a local contractor that they use and will be happy to recommend them to you.

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Where you live, the variation of betta fish you are looking at, and the size of the aquarium you will be using, along with the aquascaping decor you choose; can all have an impact on the initial outlay, and upkeep costs for your little friend. Within this article, we will be covering the elements of fish care that you may or may not be aware of. For a full list of equipment costs, please have a read of our Cost of Setting Up article.

Budgeting For a New Aquarium

Setting up a new aquarium from scratch can be the most expensive part of budgeting for a new betta fish. You can skirt around these costs by purchasing a complete aquarium package. Or you could go all out and invest heavily in a customized tank and display stand, with a complete CO2 setup for a living aquascape design. The sky’s the limit.

Buying A Tank

As we mentioned above, there are complete ready to go packages available that can help to lower the initial costs of setting up a new aquarium. They can be rather limiting as to the type of lighting and filtration that you can use, but all in all, they can be a good start for someone that’s new to the aquarium hobby.

Ideally, you will want a tank that will provide enough room for your betta to swim around in. In the wild, bettas live in the shallow waters of rice fields and other shallow bodies of water. This means that you will not need to buy a deep tank. As long as there’s at least 2.5 Gallons or more of swimming space after the decor has been added, your betta can be just as happy to live in a 6″ deep aquarium as they would a 12″ deep one.

• Empty 10 Gallon Tank ($36.39)
• 5 Gallon Aquarium Kit ($93.99)
• 20 Gallon Aquarium Kit ($124.96)

Decor and Aquascape

How you choose to decorate an aquarium, is a matter of taste and budget. By creatively taking minimalist design concepts, or by drawing inspiration from nature itself, you can achieve some stunning and breathtaking layouts. Aside from being visually appealing, the type of layout you choose can also have an impact on the general health of your betta fish. Having live plants, places to hide and rest, and things to explore and play with, can all help to improve the quality of life that your betta is living. Keeping your betta fish happy, more active and comfortable, goes a long way to keeping them healthy; which in turns lowers the risk of illnesses and diseases occurring.

The design you choice to use for your aquascape could include plants, different shapes and formations, substrates, hardscapes like rocks and driftwood, plastic/resin decor, or even material appropriate toys and ornaments from around your home. Just be sure to read up on topics relating to designing an aquascape, the types of materials that can be used, and how to prepare and install driftwood or other hardscapes.

• Substrate ($17.82)
• Rocks ($50.56)
• Driftwood ($11.55)
• Resin Decor ($13.99)

Budgeting For an Established Aquarium

When you have yourself an established aquarium that’s already setup and running, the main expense that you would have from here on out, would be centered around the betta itself.

Buying a Betta Fish

Personally, we would recommend buying your betta from a reputable breeder. We say this because some pet store sold bettas are kept in poor conditions, and can be prone to diseases and other illnesses.With that said, how a betta fish looks, has a huge impact on how much it could cost. Things like size, coloration and pattern, or fin variation, can all effect how much a particular betta may sell for.

Veil Tails for example, are the most common variety of betta in the western world. They are so common in fact that they have flooded the market place, driving down their price, and leading to actual debates among betta fish enthusiasts as to whether or not Veil Tail breeders should be allowed to continue breeding them for commercial sale.

This surplus of Veil Tails is what has made them less desirable for many betta fish enthusiasts. Which in turn, has lowered their value to the point where they are now the cheapest variety of betta available to date.

The more ornate that a betta’s fins are, the more desirable they tend to be. Their specific coloration can also have an effect on their desirability, which in turn all adds together and determines just how much people are willing to pay for them. Some betta fish have even been known to sell for hundreds of dollars, while Plakats can sell for as low as $2.00 each.

Pick the type of betta that best suits both your budget, and your current aquarium setup. This includes the type of decor you are using, as well as any other fish species that the betta may be sharing the aquarium with.

• Depending on the type and coloration combination, Bettas can price from $2.00 – $100.00(+)

General Variation Price Guide

Veil Tail Betta

$2.00 – $5.00 USD

Crown Tail Betta

$3.00 – $6.00 USD

Plakat/Short Tail

$5.00 – $7.00 USD

Deltatail Betta

$6.00 – $8.00 USD

Halfmoon Betta

$10.00 – $13.00 USD

Double Tail Betta

$6.00 – $16.00 USD

Rose/Feather Tail Betta

$14.00 – $20.00 USD

Crown Tail Betta

$10.00 – $20.00 USD

Dumbo/Elephant Ear Betta

$10.00 – $30.00 USD

Spade Tail Betta

$13.00 – $22.00 USD

Feeding Your Betta

If your betta will be sharing the aquarium with other fish, it is more cost effective to have fish that can enjoy the same food as your new betta.

To avoid wasting food, and in turn money, you’d only want to buy enough food that can be eaten by your fish before it expires/spoils and needs to be thrown out. With that said, if they can finish off the container of food before it would expire, then you can save money by buying a larger sized portion.

What you feed your betta is very important. Although it may be cheaper to only feed your betta a diet of pellets, it can be a poor dietary option for your betta. A pellet only diet has the risk of causing bloating and constipation issues.

Ideally you will need to supplement your betta’s diet with live food. Feeding your betta a live food only diet can be more expensive than pellets. For this reason, we would advise feeding them a balanced diet of pellets and live, or frozen fresh foods.

In doing so, not only can it help to improve their overall health, but live food can also encourage your betta to be more active as it has to hunt down its next meal. Eating a balanced diet also has the added benefit of helping to make your betta feel more comfortable and happy to be living in their aquarium.

• The price of pellets can be effected by both brand and volume:
  • Hikari Betta Bio-Gold Baby Pellets, 0.09oz ($4.20)
  • Northfin Food Betta Bits, 0.7oz ($5.45)
  • BettaMin Flakes, 0.81oz ($7.99)
• Frozen food can be cheaper by the oz when purchased in bulk. Be sure to check with your local suppliers for deals.

Medication

As a fact of life, there may come a time when your little betta fish may get ill, or catch a disease. This can be avoided by keeping your aquarium clean, and maintaining good quality water conditions. Like us, maintaining a health well balanced diet will also help your betta to fight of any illness that it may contact.

There are many different illnesses and diseases that could effect your betta. If your betta does happen to fall ill, please have a read of our Disease and Treatment Guide to find out how to best treat your betta’s ailment.

Some treatments can be made yourself, others may need to be purchased. For example, Ich can be treated by raising the water temperature. Ideally you would move your fish to a quarantine tank, and increase the temperature by 2 degrees every 12 hours, until it reaches 86°F (30°C) – 88°F (31°C), where the water will be kept at this range for at least 2 weeks. With the display/main tank’s water being raised to 96°F(35°C)+ for at least 48 hours.

• Alternatively, you may need to use an Ich Treatment that can be purchased online, or at your local aquarium or pet store.
  • Jungle Brand Ich Treatment, ($3.74)
• A quarantine tank, can be any spare fish tank that’s big enough to support the amount of fish you have.

Final Thoughts

Be sure to pick a betta fish and aquarium setup that’s within your budget and skill set to maintain. You don’t need to spend a fortune to keep your little betta happy and healthy. Like wise, over crowding your aquarium with expensive decor may look nice to you, but if your betta can’t move around freely or have enough space to swim around and exercise in, it could end up making your betta unhealthy and prone to illness

The post How Much Do Betta Fish Cost to Buy and Care For? appeared first on Fish Care.

Using aquariums to decorate your home is one of the most rewarding decors you could use. Not only do they offer a calming and relaxing live visage to gaze upon, they also allow us to care for plants and fish within our own living space.

But did you know that you are not just limited to the traditional free standing aquariums that are displayed at chest height, and designed to be viewed from the side. Or the more expensive designs that are built directly into the wall?

With a little ingenuity, and creative thinking, you can turn a humble coffee table into a stunning aquarium that can be view from above.

This style of aquarium can be built in one of two main ways:

• Aquarium tanks underneath a coffee table with a clear, see through top.
• Aquariums built into the coffee table.

What Is Needed to Make an Aquarium Coffee Table

Just like with any other aquarium, an aquarium coffee table of any design needs the adequate volume of water for your fish population, and a means to maintain a clean and healthy environment for your fish and/or plants.

We recommend using the aquarium stocking calculator tool Aqadvisor to calculate the appropriate species and population density (stocking level) for the tank setup you have in mind. If you are unsure as to how to use the Aqadvisor tool, please feel free to have a read of our How to Use Aqadvisor Users Guide.

1) Equipment

Once you know the species of fish you intend to include, and how many, you’ll need to make sure that their environmental needs are met. This may mean that you might require the following:

• A filter
• An air pump
• A heater
• Lighting

For more information on how to setup an aquarium, please have a read of our Beginners Guide to Setting Up an Aquarium.

If you are looking to heavily populate your aquarium with plants, you may wish to have a read of our article on How to Setup an Aquatic Plant Environment. It covers topics relating to carbon.

2) Aquascaping

One of the most important things to take into consideration when setting up your tank, is how you intend to decorate your aquarium. Whether it’s an Aquascape, or a Hardscape, there are several basic fundamentals that need to be used when designing the layout of your aquarium.

Here are a few articles that may help to give you some ideas for designing the layout of your aquarium. They cover topics ranging from how to design an aquascape, to hardscape choices, and the types of plants that you could consider using in your design.

• Designing an Aquascape
• Different Types of Aquarium Driftwood
• Aquarium Wood – A Complete Guide to Preparing and Installing Driftwood
• Live Aquarium Plants for Your Betta Fish
• Our Top 15 Picks For Low Light Aquarium Plants

Pointers to Be Mindful Of

As decorative and impressive looking as an aquarium coffee table can be, they can have their own unique problems.

• While most designs do allow for viewing to be achieved from both sides and the top, you could choose to limit the viewing angle to just the top down if you so desired.
• When using lighting, you could consider lighting the aquarium from the bottom, the sides, or the top.
• How ever you choose to light the aquarium, the best layouts are designed to be hidden.
• Being lower to the ground, there is a greater risk of the tank being broken by loose objects.
• Condensation could cause the coffee table glass to become cloudy.
• If there is not enough air flow under the coffee table, mold and mildew could become a problem.
• If an appropriate base is not used, this type of aquarium setup could damage your flooring.

Aquariums Underneath the Coffee Table

The easiest and arguably the most common form of aquarium coffee tables. These designs are achieved by taking an existing coffee table with a glass or clear acrylic top, and simply placing a tank underneath it.

Some tables already have an existing magazine shelf, others have no lower supports. In either case, whether a shelf is used or not, this type of aquarium table takes a tank without a lid and puts it together with a coffee table, making for some stunning aquariums.

Coffee Table Standing Over the Aquarium Design

We would not recommend having your aquarium sit directly on the floor, as it could lead to dampness issues, or damage to your carpet; not to mention that the vibrations caused by people walking around could upset your fish.

So if you are looking to use a design that requires the tank to sit on the floor; we would suggest using a base board of some description for the tank to rest upon, and to have the floor changed to suit the tank itself.

Keeping the Aquarium separate from the table, allows you to utilize a larger volume tank. You may get lucky and find a coffee table and tank combo that fit perfectly together with minimum modifying. Otherwise, you may need to have one or the other, custom made to fit together.

Setting up an aquarium where the coffee table sits over the aquarium, will require you to first place the tank in the desired position, and to test its placement by putting the coffee table in place.

Once satisfied, remove the coffee table and begin to fill and decorate your aquarium. Remember that the aquascape will be viewed from above, as well as from the sides, so decorate accordingly.

With this sort of design, when you need to feed your fish, clean your aquarium, or change your water, you would need to move the coffee table out of the way, so look at how you would do this. Do you want to lift the table, or would you rather just slid/pull it away from the aquarium.

Aquarium on the Coffee Table Shelf Design

Be it a new shelf, or an existing shelf, it is advisable to make sure that a shelf is made in such a way that it can support the weight of the full aquarium. Larger tanks need a more sturdy shelf, otherwise you run the risk of the shelf giving way, which could cause the tank to break.

For best results, you are better off using a coffee table that can have its top removed. If the glass top on the coffee table can’t be removed, assembling your aquascape can be difficult to do when the tank is put is place.

If you are using a coffee table with a permanently attached top, try setting up your aquascape before, placing the tank on the shelf.

Most tanks used in these sort of designs, tend to be on the smaller size, of 10-15 gallons. Finding a tank that has the right dimensions to fit comfortably on the shelf of the coffee table can be hard to achieve. If you don’t like the way your tank is positioned, you may need to consider having the tank custom made.

Also, as you are using yet another pre-existing tank, designing the aquascape will need to take into consideration that it can be viewed from the sides as well as from above.

Aquariums Built Into the Coffee Table

There are some pre-made coffee tables that can be bought with a tank already built into the frame work of the table. Some of these designs may use pipes or narrow tanks to form the frame of the table. Others may simply be a table lid placed over an aquarium.

When it comes to the design of these aquariums, it ultimately comes down to personal tastes in decor. Whether you like the rustic look with timber encasing your aquarium. The industrial look where pipes, or metal are used in the design. Or you simply like the look of a aquarium with an oversized lid that doubles as a table top. The choice is yours.

Here are a few aquarium coffee table designs that have the tank and coffee table built into a single unit.

Final Thoughts

Using aquariums as a coffee table not only makes for a nice focal point and talking topic; they can also bring life to any room. Not only that, where space is at a premium, utilizing the aquarium as a coffee table can also help to cut down on clutter; allowing those who live in confined living conditions, a way to also enjoy their own aquarium.

If you are interested in checking out a pre-made aquarium coffee table, please click the button below.

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Give Your Betta a Healthy Diet

Before we get into the different types of fish foods that your betta may like, we firstly need to cover proper feeding habits. As a carnivorous species, bettas need to maintain a high protein diet. In the wild they are opportunistic feeders that feed upon worms and bugs, and are unable to survive on a wholly plant based diet. To help keep their bright coloration looking vibrant and shiny, you need to give them a varied diet that contains the right amount of vitamins and minerals. This can be achieved by feeding your betta pellets or flacks on some days, and live or frozen foods on the other days.

Avoid Bad Feeding Habits

One of the biggest mistakes that many owners make is overfeeding their fish. Even if the food you are using is highly nutritious and healthy for your Betta, overfeeding your betta is counterproductive. Not only can this cause the water quality to drop as uneaten food breaks down; when your fish eats too much it can become constipated, and find it difficult to swim around freely.

Your betta should be feed twice a day, and in portions no larger then their eyeball. If you are feeding your betta blood worms or pellets, 2-3 of these per feeding should be enough, any more and you start to run the risk of over feeding your betta. Also keep an eye on the food that you are feeding your betta. Make sure that all the food is eaten, if the betta misses some, or ignores it; remove that food from the tank. Any food that is left in the tank will begin to break down, which can increase the ammonia levels in the water, which can make your betta sick.

Use Quality Food

Be mindful of your budget but don’t cheap out on the fish food you use too much. Live and frozen food are some of the highest quality foods for your betta, but they can be more costly than pellets or flacks. Solely feeding your betta a diet of low quality pellets and flacks could equate to you living on nothing but junk food. So supplementing in some frozen brine shrimp or blood worms every now and then, would be a better option that allows your betta to have a healthier diet, while remaining friendly to your budget.

When feeding your betta processed pellets or flacks, it is also best to use fish foods that have been formulated specifically for bettas, and not just a generic all round fish food. As each species of fish have different dietary requirements, using a fish food that is not formulated for bettas can be detrimental to their health. Processed fish foods that are not meant for bettas could be lacking the appropriate amount of proteins that are needed for a healthy betta to survive on, and they even have a higher risk of causing constipation as your betta may not be able to break down the fish food properly.

For more information on feeding your betta fish, or how to treat a constipated betta, please read our following articles:

• Feeding Bettas – A Complete Guide to Feeding Your Betta
• Are You Feeding Your Betta Enough?
• Bloating and Constipation
• Frozen & Live Betta Food

Live Food

Undoubtedly the best food source for bettas, and the most expensive. Unlike the other food types, Frozen and Dried, live food has a limited window to use them. Some live foods can spoil and die, or in the case of mosquito larvae, their life cycle may be over too quick and they can out grow their use. This makes storing live food a short term solution; which means that if you are not maintaining and farming your own supply, it can be quite costly to sustain this type of diet.

Feeding your betta live food, also has the added benefit of encouraging your betta to actively hunt, giving them more exercise and a healthier lifestyle. Your betta can also live on a purely live food diet as well. But this is a diet that has risks of its own to worry about. Parasites and other pathogens could infect your betta if you were to feed them a contaminated food supply. To avoid this, only source your live feed from reputable suppliers, or grow your own and don’t feed your betta things that you’ve caught from the wild.

Different Types of Live Food

Here are some of the more common live foods that can be fed to bettas. Some of these creatures, such as live worms, can be hand fed to your betta. Others, you can simply place in the aquarium, and your betta will swim after them to hunt them down to feed. Live foods can be bought from some of the local pet and aquarium stores. Most of the larger chains don’t stock live foods for fish, instead preferring to stock feeder fish as feed for larger fish.

• Live worms – black worms, grindal worms and white worms
  • Preparing and Feeding Blackworms to Tropical Fish
• Bloodworms
• Daphnia Fruit Flies
• Mosquito larvae
• Wingless fruit flies
• Vinegar eels
• Fairy Shrimp

Frozen Food

Just like live food, frozen food can be a very healthy option for your betta. If you are cultivating your own live food, or buying it in bulk, you can portion out any excess live food you have and freeze it off for later use. Otherwise you can buy pre-frozen food.

The one advantage that frozen food has over live food, is that it can be stored for extended periods of time, and is available year round. One of the biggest disadvantages is that you need to prepare many of the frozen foods to get them ready for your betta.

Different Types of Frozen Food

Most frozen foods can be found in aquarium and pet stores of any size. You may be able to source some online, but you run the risk of the food defrosting during shipment. For this reason, we would recommend that you only buy your frozen foods from a local business.

• Frozen bloodworms
• Frozen brine shrimp
  • How to Feed Frozen Brine Shrimp to your Betta Fish
• Frozen mysis shrimp
• Frozen black mosquito larvae

Serving Stations

Feeding live or frozen foods to a singe fish can be easy to do. You can place the food directly in front of the fish with tweezers, or you can scatter a small amount into the tank and let your betta seek them out. When you are feeding multiple fish and want to minimize the risk of the food falling to the bottom and going to waste, you may want to consider using feeder stations.

More suited for feeding your fish worms, these nifty little devices contain the food in one location, while allowing your fish to pick at it as bits of the food poke out through the holds.

Dried Foods

While not our favorite type of food to feed our bettas; they are cost effective, require minimum effort to maintain enough stock, and meet the basic needs of the betta. The biggest issue with dried foods such as pellets and flacks, is that they don’t contain enough moisture to be digested properly. You can get around this by pre-soaking the pellets prior to feeding them to your betta fish.

The other issue, is that pellets are not enough to provide a balanced diet for your betta. If you are using pellets as the main source of food for your betta, we recommend supplementing their diet with the occasional piece of frozen food. Also make sure to keep an eye out for bloating or constipation issues, as not all bettas can digest pellets properly.

1) NorthFin Betta Bits

With 45% protein and a moisture content of around 9%, Northfin Betta Bits are one of the best dried foods to feed your betta. The biggest problem that we have found with regards to this product, is that it can be hard to get hold of, and may need to be specially ordered in for you if you were to request it at your local pet or aquarium store.

check prices on amazon

2) Omega One Betta Flakes

Another dried food product with a high 43% protein content. Omega One makes their products in the US with fresh seafood and not with meal. Using flakes to feed your betta can be problematic, as most bettas will refuse to eat flakes, instead preferring to eat other types of solid foods.

Check prices on amazon

3) Ocean Nutrition Betta Pellets

Ocean Nutrition Betta Pellets are small enough to be easily eaten by your betta, and have the added benefit of also improving the colors of your betta. These pellets will not cloud or discolor your water, but they can sink relatively quickly if not eaten soon enough.

Check prices on amazon

4) Hikari Betta Bio-Gold Baby Pellets

These small baby sized pellets are very easy for bettas to eat. The unique dispenser also makes portioning the pellets easy to do, once you’ve gotten use to it that is. Like so many other dried foods, one of the greatest problems with this sort of product, is that they contain high levels of fillers and artificial colors.

check prices on amazon

5) Tetra BettaMin

There are not many flake foods that we would suggest to try and feed your betta with. If you need to feed multiple fish and flakes are the better option for those fish, and you can manage to get your betta to eat them, BettaMin can be a good cross species feed with its moderately high 40% protein levels.

Check prices on amazon

Freeze Dried Foods

One of the most readily available fish foods online, and not one that we ourselves would recommend. Freeze dried food is the less nutritious fish food available, but should you find yourself in a situation where you need to use freeze dried food, make sure to pre-soak it prior to feeding. If you feed your betta freeze dried food without soaking it first, it can cause massive bloating and constipation issues. It would be like us humans trying to pass rocks that were baked into a cake. While the outside may be soft enough to breakdown, the inner core would remain dry and hard.

Final Thoughts

Feeding your betta a balanced diet is crucial for having a healthy betta. It can help them to fight off illness and disease, and aids in extending their life span. If you have the skills and the resources, consider establishing and cultivating your own live food, not only is this a healthier option for your betta, it can also help to reduce costs over the long run. If you are unable to cultivate your own live food, look at using as much fresh food, live or frozen, as possible and not rely too heavily on processed dried foods.

The post Best Food for Betta Fish appeared first on Fish Care.

The conditions found in many streams, rivers, and marshes, limits just how much ample unfiltered sunlight aquatic plants can revive. Over hanging trees, steep river banks, and deep water, all add towards lowering the levels of penetrating sunlight. This means that one of the easiest lighting setups for both beginners and experts to use, is also one of the best lighting solutions for many plants.

This article will be covering our top 15 picks for aquatic plants, that are best suited for low light aquariums. For more information on related topics, please read the following articles:

• Live Aquarium Plants for Your Betta Fish
• How To Setup an Aquatic Plant Environment For Your Betta
• Designing an Aquascape

1) Marimo Moss Balls (Aegagropila Linnaei)

These small green balls of algae, sit on the bottom of your tank sucking up nitrates, and pumping oxygen back into the water. We cover Marimo Moss Balls in greater detail in our article Marimo Moss Balls – Everything There Is to Know. This is one plant that we highly recommend to any and all freshwater aquarium enthusiast.

Not only are they easy to propagate, they make for a nice little featured center pieces in most aquascapes. From minimalist designs, to dense foliage, moss balls can fill in a void, and draw the eye to/away from things. Generally speaking, they are athletically pleasing.

Aside from our own visual enjoyment from their inclusion, many fish species also gain additional benefits from their inclusion as well. Shrimp and bottom feeders such as Cory, can find tasty morsels trapped along its surface. They can also give Bettas and other small fish somewhere to rest and sleep. Playful species such as the Kuhli Loach (Pangio Kuhlii) have been known to play with them by knocking them about.

2) Java Moss (Vesicularia Dubyana)

One of the easiest aquatic plants to grow. They are a hardy and adaptable moss, that is capable of enduring most conditions. They grow according to light levels. So in low light, java moss grows rather slowly, but in higher light levels they can grow relatively quickly.

Java moss have no roots, but they will attach themselves to any porous surface. This makes them ideal for creating living walls, and for covering different shaped decor. You can assist the java moss to anchor itself onto an object, by tying it down with cotton or nylon string, or even with aquarium glue.

Their tiny oval shape leaves can also provide an ideal perch for some fish to lay their eggs. Java moss are also compatible with most freshwater species in general.

3) Java Fern (Microsorum Pteropus)

All in all, there are six species of Java Fern. All of which are compatible with most freshwater fish, and can tolerate a wide range of temperatures and lighting conditions. The leaves of each species can be found in a variety of shapes and sizes, from short to long, wide to thin, or even with detailed branching that’s almost lace-like in appearance.

The natural habitat of java ferns is in shallow waters and along the edges of rivers, waterfalls, and rocks. Many hobbyists design their aquascaping with this in mind. This is why they are often placed along side rocks and other hardscapes in aquariums.

Should you attempt to anchor your java fern to a piece of decor in your aquarium, it is advised that you use cotton thread to tie them together. This will give the java fern time for its rhizomes to grip onto the decor’s surface.

As low maintenance aquatic plants, some species may require infrequent trimming and can grown as large as 12-14 inches long. When grown in a low light systems, java ferns will grow bright green leaves that fan out more loosely from the base of the plant. In stronger lighting conditions, the java fern’s leaves will darken and and grow in denser clumps, reaching upwards.

4) African Water Fern (Bolbitis heduelotii)

This relatively large aquatic plant is native to the Congo river basin of Africa. Due to their size, which can be as large as 22 inches, it is not recommended that you use these plants in smaller aquariums. They are well suited for medium tanks and larger, that contain warmer waters.

Under low light conditions, the African water fern is a slow growing plant. These plants should not be kept with goldfish, koi, or cichlids, as they will most likely cause the plant damage. Partnering them up with shrimp and/or algae eating fish is an excellent option to consider.

The African water fern is an easy plant to care for and requires little maintenance in a low light system. They will easily tether themselves to almost any surface. This means that you could loosely place the plant near where you would like it to grow. Or you could anchor it in place with the use of nylon or cotton thread.

5) Vallisneria/Eelgrass

The long slender leaves with their raised veins and rounded tips, stretch up like tall blades of grass. It is for this reason, that many hobbyists, find that the vallisneria are great for framing the sides and back of an aquarium.

Low light conditions can slow their rate of growth to an easily manageable level. More maintenance will be needed when they begin to flower though. When propagating, they will grow long stalks that reach up to the surface, producing the female flower. The male flower grows on short stalks, and can be found floating along the surface once it has broken off on its own accord. Should seeds actually develop, they will be contained in banana shaped capsules.

6) Sagittaria

All up, there are are approximately thirty different species that are direct descendants of the sagittaria. Species such as arrowhead, duck potato, Katniss, Kuwait, Swan potato, Tule potato, and Wapato are examples of such descendants.

Grown in circular clusters, and propagated by sending out runners to generate a new plant. We find that these grass-like plants, with their yellow and bright green leaves, make excellent additions to any background, foreground, or mid-ground aquascaping feature.

7) Green Hygro (Hygrophila Polysperma)

An extremely easy to grow and hardy freshwater aquarium plant, the green hygro does have a considerably fast growth rate, making them a mid-high maintenance plant.

Trimming the plant back, will encourage new growth to occur in the affected area. This means that should you cut off a dead/dying section, new growth will soon begin to replace it.

This plant does not have any particular requirement for substrate in order to be able to thrive. Even so, it does need to be kept away from goldfish and digging cichlids as they will most likely damage it. Most other herbivorous fish will not eat this plant however.

8) Sunset Hygro (Hygrophila polysperma)

A native plant to the warmer waters of southeast Asia, the sunset hygro is a hardy plant and requires little maintenance. We love these plants for their primarily green leaves with their white veins running along it’s length. With high enough levels of iron in the substrate, you can produce leaves that have red and purple hues at the top of the plant’s stalk, and red-pink edges on the leaves further down.

You can choose to have these plants anchored into the substrate, or allowed to float freely along the surface. Personally we prefer to contain them to one area of the aquarium, either rooted into the substrate of prevented from floating around through the use of hardscape.

9) Rotala Indica

A rather fragile and difficult plant for beginners to grow under low-light conditions. The rotala indica is known for also having a rather limited optimal water temperature range of 72-80° Fahrenheit, which only further adds to the challenge for inexperienced hobbyists.

Despite all this, these plants remain one of our favorite plants to include in our low-medium light aquariums, and would highly recommend them to any experienced freshwater enthusiast.

Their needle-like leaves have rounded ends, and sprout forth from a reddish stem. Rotala indica does not have a uniformed coloration to their leaves, some can be mostly green, others can have the leaves at the top being green, with more and more leaves taking the reddish hue the further down the stem you go.

Under low light conditions, the rotala is not likely to take on the more dense, bushy growth that they can be known for. The illusion of a thicker growth can be achieved by planting several plants in a closer cluster and obscuring their base, and only showcasing their upper stalks.

10) Cryptocoryne Wendtii

The leaves of the cryptocoryne wendtii are long, with wavy edges. They can be found in hues of brown, red or green, and in low light conditions, they can reach lengths of up to 18 inches.

The cryptocoryne wendtii are ideal for both obscuring objects as well as functioning as a focal feature, drawing the eye to particular section in any aquascape design. Their main requirement needed to help ensure stable growth, is that they have a loose substrate with a large enough grain size. This will help to encourage the proper growth of their root system.

11) Guppy Grass (Najas guadalupensis)

Arguably, one of the most ideal plants to be used in a shrimp and breeding tank. Their thin green leaves, twist and wind their way into dense clumps and tangled knots. In doing so, this helps to provide fry and shrimp with a nice place to hide and forage.

Being a free floating plant, substrate is not require for these plants. They can be very compatible with most bare bottom aquascape designs. The coloration of their leaves is highly dependent on lighting levels. The lower the level the darker shade of green the plant will take.

They can also be a fast growing plant and may require frequent trimming. With their fast growth rate and tolerance for water temperatures of up to 85° Fahrenheit, the guppy grass is an extremely easy plant to care for.

12) Pelia/Pelia Moss (Monosolenium Tenerum)

This unique looking plant may look similar to moss, but it behaves very differently. Unlike moss, Pelia does not rapidly grow into thick mats, nor attach themselves to any structures or surfaces as they do not use roots or rhizomes to hold themselves in place.

The pelia will instead sit loosely on the bottom of the tank. Some hobbyist allow there pelia to drift and roll around in their aquarium. Others prefer to anchor the pelia in place by using nylon or cotton thread to attached it to an object that will help to contain its movement. If left alone, they can sink to the bottom on their own or maintain several degrees of buoyancy.

They can have a round, dome like bushy shape and can be brittle. As such, it is best to avoid pairing the pelia with goldfish and schooling fish as they can easily damage its leaves. Though physically fragile, this type of plant can tolerate a wide range of temperatures, and nutrient levels.

This does not mean that the pelia is a functional plant. Consider the pelia as more of a decorative plant, then a utility one. As they tend to have a very low impact of water quality and chemistry. They are not a good choice for trying to filter out nitrates and ammonia from the water in your aquarium.

13) Waterwheel Plant (Aldrovanda vesiculosa)

The aquatic version of a Venus flytrap. Waterwheel plants are free floating carnivorous plants that feed on water fleas, insects, tadpoles, mosquito wigglers and other microorganisms and tiny plankton in the wild.

Being a meat eater, waterwheels can share the same food source as fish that can have their diets supplemented with zooplankton. Although some people believe that the waterwheel will actually eat their fish, this is not the case for most fish species. There have been reports of them eating fry however, so we would advise against using this plant in breeding tanks.

We must admit that there is a morbid curiosity for these plants. But they can also produce a solitary white flowers that protrudes out of the water. What makes these flowers so special, is that they are rare to see. The flowers only open for a few hours before being drawn back under the water. This makes propagating via seedlings difficult, so it would be best to grow additional plants from cuttings.

14) Cryptocoryne Spiralis

With long narrow leaves that almost looks like grass, the cryptocoryne spiralis makes an excellent plant for beginners and expert aquarium enthusiasts alike. Requiring an iron rich substrate, these plants can be grown both in clumps or spread apart.

Their long leaves have a central stem, and crinkled edging that helps to provide structural support. Under ideal conditions, the leaves could reach lengths as long as 16 inches.

The biggest drawback to growing cryptocoryne spiralis , is that they have a rather narrow temperature range of only 75-82° Fahrenheit. This can make it rather difficult trying to include this plant in areas where it could be hard to maintain a stable temperature.

15) Red Ludwigia (Ludwigia Repens)

This gorgeous plant, with its red-bright orange hues can bring color to any aquarium. We find that the red ludwigia can be used to decorate an aquarium on its own. When situated in among or near green plants, its vibrant colors are only accentuated even further.

Requiring an iron rich substrate, these plants can tolerate a temperature range of as low as 59° to 75° Fahrenheit. If left unchecked, the stems can reach lengths of up to 20 inches. So to encourage a more bushy shaped growth, it is recommended that you frequently trim these stems back.

The post Our Top 15 Picks For Low Light Aquarium Plants appeared first on Fish Care.

Why Should I Use an Aquarium Stock Calculator?

Whether you are setting up a new aquarium, or thinking of including a new addition or two to your existing setup, the volume of water that your aquarium has, can only support so many fish before the aquarium becomes difficult to maintain or dangerous for your fish to live in.

For this reason, we would recommend using AqAdvisor before proceeding with your aquarium plans. In doing so, you could save yourself a bit of money by knowing beforehand if you need a bigger tank, or a larger filtration system.

Understanding What an Aquarium Stock Calculator is Used For

Calculators like AqAdvisor can help to determine how many fish can be sustained in a nominated volume of water, as well as which species are suitable for the size of aquarium you are planning to use.

Aquarium stock calculators are not meant to determine which species are compatible for co-existing in the same aquarium. Nor their individual decor and spacing needs. You will need to do additional research on your chosen species’ ideal environmental setup, in order to determine if they like open space to swim around in, or if they prefer to hide among dense planting or in caves.

If you intend on creating an aquarium space for Betta fish, please see the following articles:

• Can Betta Fish Co-Exist Together?
• What Other Species Can Live with Betta Fish?
• What Type of Decor and Shelter Do Betta Fish Need?

AqAdvisor may be able to narrow down your list of possible species by size and temperature requirements, but behavioral and dietary needs will need to be further considered on your own to determine if they are truly compatible.

Understanding the Page Layout and Functions

First things first, you will need to visit the website at http://www.aqadvisor.com, this will take you to a plain and simple HTML website. There are no fancy bells and whistles, or flashy graphics. Its basic design makes using the site as streamlined and simplistic as possible…. which is why so many people find it overwhelming and difficult to use at first. I know, I know, it sounds contradictory, but once you know how to use the calculator properly, you’ll find the layout to be very easy to navigate.

1) Selecting Your Appropriate Tab

In the top left-hand corner there are three tabs that you can select; “Freshwater Advisor”, “Saltwater Advisor”, and “Most Popular Fish”. Be sure to select the tab that’s applicable for the type of aquarium that you will be setting up. The only difference between the freshwater and saltwater page layouts, is that the saltwater page does not have a filters field or the corresponding buttons, and the list of suitable species is limited to saltwater species only. For this reason we will be using the freshwater page to demonstrate how to use the calculator. Saltwater readers need only to ignore the section on filters.

The most popular fish tab, is an achieve with lists of which fish were looked up the most for each month of the year. The lists are compiled by the users. Every time that someone starts a new calculation, the fish that they select are added to this months list of popular fish.

2) Customizing Your Data Settings

Above the data entry fields, there are 5 buttons (3 for saltwater). The first 2 are used to either add or remove a filter field from the list below. The other three are used to switch between the Imperial and Metric Systems for units of measurement.

1. Add a filter – Does as the name suggest, this button will add an additional filter field to your list of equipment. By default two filters are already available.
2. Remove a Filter – Should you feel the need to remove a filter field from your list of equipment, this button will do the trick. Removing a filter field is not necessarily required however. If you were to select “Choose” from the drop down tab, this field will be ignored during calculations.
3. Display in cm/inches – This button changes the units of measurements for the dimension of your tank to either Inches (by default) or cm. Be sure that you have selected the correct unit of measurement in order to get an accurate calculation for the size of your tank.
4. Display in Litres/Gallons – This button has no bearing on the calculations, but it does allow you to change the results to display the unit of measurement that you better understand. By default, tank volume is calculated in gallons. If you are manually entering the capacity of your filter, be sure to set the measurement to match that which is used on the package.
5. Display in Fahrenheit/Celsius – Like the volume unit, you can select the unit of measurement that you better understand for temperature. By default the results are preset to Celsius.

3) Inputting Your Tank Dimensions

The most important fields that must be filled in, are the dimensions of your tank. Without this, the calculator can not determine a suitable aquarium stock. There are two options available to you for filling in the required information, automatically, or manually.

1. The Name field is purely cosmetic and will have no impact on the dimensions of your tank.
2. The Dimension drop down tab on the other hand, has a list of pre-made tanks from various brands. This list is sorted in numerical size order from the smaller tanks first, to the larger tanks. If you know the size and brand of your tank, look for the model under their appropriate size. Generic tanks such as a standard 10 gallon tank can be found on the list without an adjoining brand name.
3. By selecting “User Defined” from the Dimensions drop down tab, you are able to manually enter the dimensions of your tank. Make sure that you are entering the correct units of measurement though. If you do not know how to convert one unit into another yourself, you can select your preferred unit from the customization buttons above.
   1. Length – Is the front face measurement of your tank, left to right.
   2. Depth – Is the measurement for the side of your tank, front to back.
   3. Height – Measures how deep your tank is, top to bottom.
4. Update – The update button will process the data that you have provided and calculate the estimated volume of your tank. The volume will be displayed on the right of the button and will be in your nominated unit of measurement (Gallons/Liters).

One thing to be mindful of, is that this calculation does not take into account any decor and aquascaping that you may be including into your tank. The more objects and material that you add to your aquarium, the less space there is for water. Which means that the overall volume of water within our aquarium is reduced.

4) Selecting Your Filter

1. Selecting a filter from the drop down tab list automatically fills in the details.
2. Whether it is automatically, or manually filled in after selecting “User Defined“, this value is that filter’s capacity capability, and will be displayed in the nominated unit of measurement (Gallons/Liters).

Selecting a filter is completely optional, though it does go a long way towards helping to determine if your aquarium will be at its peak efficiency. Unlike the drop down tab for tanks which is sorted by size before brand name, the drop down tab for filters is alphabetically sorted by brand then model. This means that you are unable to simply search for a filter by capacity. In order to determine if a filter suits your aquarium’s requirements, you will firstly need to predetermine which filter you are using. You can try selecting filters of various capacities to help determine the size you may require. Keep in mind though that different filter types can yield different results. We would recommend looking for a unit that you are comfortable with, then compare it using the calculator before actually purchasing the unit.

The drop down list has many of the more commonly used models. If you are unable to find your particular brand or model on the list, you can manually enter its capacity by selecting “User Define” in the drop down tab. Do not enter the full capacity value that is on the packet. It is best to use 65-70% of the suggested capacity as some brands over promise on their products, and others are based on optimal conditions. 65-70% will give you a nice little buffer which means that the filter would most likely serve its function without a problem based on these figures. If you are using addition units for your aquarium, you can add more by clicking the “Add a filter” button above. The combined capacity of these filters will be used to determine if there is enough filtration for your aquarium. Be sure to click the Update button after you have selected your filter details.

At the bottom of the page, you will find the relevant filtration information. Ideally, your aquarium’s filtration capacity should be at least 100% if not more. If your filtration levels are not high enough, you will be notified with a warning that is highlighted in red. You will also find the recommended water change schedule. If it is being recommended that you carry out a large volume water change each week, the calculator could actually suggest that you perform two changes per week instead of the one.

5) Tailoring the “Choose Fish Species From” List

There are over 900 different species on file in AqAdvisor’s database. Along with fish, you can also find frogs, shrimp, snails and eels. If you know either the common name or scientific name of a particular species, you can use the Search String (search bar) to locate it on the list. Alternatively if you only know part of the name, the search bar can be used to find set keywords or character combinations, and will bring up every species that has the chain of nominated characters anywhere in either its common or scientific name. By default the list is sorted alphabetically by common name first, though you can opt to sort the list by scientific name instead simply by clicking the “Sort by scientific name” button located just below the list.

1. Display only suitable species for your tank – This button reduces the total number of suggested species to just the ones that maybe suitable for the tank the size that you have nominated.
2. Search String – A generic search bar. Search results are not case sensitive and is able to search for characters that appear anywhere in a species common and scientific names.
3. Advanced Search – Clicking this button opens up two more additional search parameters, Size between and Temperature between.
4. Size between – Part of the advanced search fields. You are able to reduce the suggested species even further by limiting the list of species to ones that are within the set size range once fully grown.
5. Temperature between – Part of the advanced search field. By setting the temperature range, you are able to find species that enjoy the same water temperatures.

Regardless of if you choose to reduce the list to suitable species or not, clicking the “Search” button after you have filled in the relevant details, will refresh the list to only the species that match the search parameters.

How to Add Fish to Your Aquarium Stocking List

Now that you have filled in the relevant details regarding the size of your tank, any filters that you may be using, and potentially narrowed down the list of suitable species for your aquarium, it is time to generate your aquarium’s ideal fish population levels.

Adults or Juveniles

Some enthusiasts start their aquariums with juveniles and tailor their aquariums around these fish as they grow. Others use only adult fish in their aquariums. By default AqAdvisor is preset to provide information based on full grown fish, and not juveniles. If you are looking to become a breeder and need to setup a rearing tank, or if you have yourself a couple of juveniles, you can select the “Use juvenile sizes” button in the center of the page. This will allow you to designate the size of your fish before adding them to your aquarium stocking list. If you leave the size blank when you add the species, they will be put through as the default adult size.

1. Use juvenile/adult sizes – This button can be used to switch between having all adult species, or to include juveniles as well.
2. Default setting for adding/removing an amount of a species as adults.
3. The juvenile setting for adding/removing an amount of a species. Enter the size of the species as they currently are. If left blank, adults will be added by default.

Should you build up your aquarium stocking list with nothing but juveniles, clicking the “Use adult size only” will enable you to swap back and forth to compare their current requirements with their future needs.

Adding and Removing a Species From Your Selected Species List

Adding and removing a species is rather simple. On the left of the screen is your list of potential species for you to choose from. In the middle is the population tools where you can define quantity and size if you are using the “Use juvenile sizes” function, as well as the remove tool. On the right of the screen is your list of selected species (potential aquarium stock).

Should you need to clear your selected species list and start again, use the “Clear fish selection” button just above the list. If you need to completely start from scratch, use the “Start over” button, this would reset all data entry points including the tank size and any selected filters. If you try adding more of the same species, they will be added to the total for the species. You can only have different amounts of the same species, if you are listing different sized juveniles.

Adding a Species to Your Aquarium Stock

Here are the following steps we would use to generate an aquarium stocking list consisting of a Betta and Tetras.

1. Set your parameters for your suitable species – We are using the “Display only suitable species for your tank” function and the “Advanced Search” settings. For our 10 gallon tank, this gives use 176 out of 917 species that meet our parameters.
2. From your list of potential species, select the species you are looking for, in this case a Betta Imbellis.
3. If you know fish by their scientific name more so then their common name, try using the “Sort by scientific name” button if you need to see them sorted this way.
4. As we are including a juvenile betta, we are using the “Use Juvenile sizes” function. If we wish to see the future requirements of the betta once it has grown, all we need to do is click the “Use adult size only“.
5. For juveniles enter their current size using the nominated units of measurement (inches/cm). Now enter how many of this species you are including, and click “Add>“.

1. As you can see, there now one 1 inch Betta Imbellis that has been added to our list of Selected species.
2. Select your second species from your suggested list of potential species. In this case we are adding Black Neon Tetras.
3. This time we want to add 10 adult Tertas. Simply enter the desired amount, 10, into the Quantity field. As we are adding adult fish, we do not need to enter a size. On the default “Adult size only” function, there is no option for sizes as all species will be assumed to be adults. Once the amount has been entered click on the “Add>” button, and they will be added to your list of Selected species.

Removing a Species from Your Aquarium Stock

Should you find that you have made a mistake by either selecting the wrong species, or over populating your aquarium, and you do not want to have to clear your whole stock list, or rest the tool. There are two options available to you:

1. Select the species you wish to have removed from your “Selected species” list. Without entering anything into the field above the “<Remove” button, clicking this button will remove the species from the list completely. This is good for removing a species that you have mistakenly chosen.
2. Alternatively, if you want to reduce the total amount you have selected for a species. Enter the desired amount you wish to reduce their number by into the field above the “<Remove” button. Then select the targeted species, and then click <Remove. This will subtract the nominated amount from this species’ total number on your Selected species list.

Reading and Understanding the AqAdvisor Aquarium Stocking Data

After you have entered all of the relevant data, AqAdvisor will process the information and determine the viability of your stock’s potential. The information can be found near the bottom of the page under the large ad banner. Based on the species that you have selected, the size of your tank, and filtration system, the following information can be found:

• The suggested water temperature range, pH levels, and water hardness, is displayed in Green.
• Filtration capability, the suggested water change schedule, and the Stock/Population size/capacity, is displayed in Black and represented by a percentage.
• Any potential issues are listed as either Warnings or Notes, and highlighted in Red.

1. Any potential issues that directly relate to your chosen species will be displayed here and be highlighted in red.
2. Recommended temperature range – The ideal min/max temperature is displayed here in your nominated unit of measurement (Celsius/Fahrenheit).
3. Recommended pH range – The ideal low/high levels of pH acidity in your aquarium’s water.
4. Recommended hardness range – The ideal levels of dH hardness for your aquarium’s water.
5. Filtration capacity summary – Black writing indicates a good filtration. Red writing means that the filtration capacity may be too low.
6. Filtration capacity percentage – 100% equals a good filtration system. Anything over 100% is ideal. Anything under 100% indicates that the system may not be able to meet the aquarium’s filtration needs.
7. Recommended water change schedule – This is how much water should be swapped out each week. Sometimes it may be suggested that you change the water twice a week. Occasionally a red notice may appear that indicates that the current setup would be better suited to someone that has the skills and experience to effectively maintain this sort of aquarium..
8. Your aquarium stocking level – Displayed as a percentage score, this shows how close you are to reaching maximum population levels. Anything below 100% is the ideal target, while anything over 100% could be mean that the tank is over populated and potentially crowded.

Pay Attention to the Warnings and Notes

Just because a species is suggested as being part of the suitable species for your tanks, does not mean that your particular tank would be suitable for that species. For example we have a 30x15x6 inch custom made shallow tank that is approximately 11.7 gallons. As you can see in the image below, while the tank is perfect for shallow dwelling fish like Betta, and even though the calculator considers 11.7 gallons to be enough to support an Aequidens Jenaro Herrera; it is far too shallow for a species like the Aequidens, even at only a 47% aquarium stocking level.

If your tank is over populated but not over crowed, there could be an excessive amount of bio-waste, and the AqAdvisor may either recommend upgrading to a larger tank, or advise that the current size would be more suitable for someone with the skill sets to maintain the aquarium properly.

Additionally some species are not capable of co-existing. If there are any complications that can be caused by behavioral issues, environmental needs or specific requirements, AqAdvisor will notify you with important information in the form of Warnings and Notes. This highlighted information could be generic for the species, or specific for conflicting or non-compatible species. Here are examples of the types of Notes and Warnings that you would get if you tried stocking an Abei Puffer, a Betta Male, and/or a Betta Female with each other.

Notes tend to display general behavior traits regardless of other interactions with other species. Warnings are specific to the species in question. You must make sure to read all notifications as they could be due to incompatibility or specific environmental/housing needs. Should you be looking for information on tank mates for your Betta and compatible species, please read our articles:

• Tankmates for Bettas
• Fish That Can Live With Bettas

The post AqAdvisor – User Guide (How to Use It) appeared first on Fish Care.

The topic of whether Betta fish should be housed together in a sorority or not seems to be never ending. Some fish enthusiasts warn that in no circumstances other than for strictly breeding should two Bettas ever be tank mates. On the other hand, scientists have conducted a number of tests of the species concluding that Betta females can live happily together with minimal intervention needed. While science can only go so far, we can conclude that it is somewhat safe to create an aquarium space to house a number of Betta females.

While we’ve concluded Betta females can live in harmony (after they have worked out tank hierarchy) the same cannot be said for two male Betta fish. Male Betta fish will become aggressive when placed with another male and this is evident throughout history even earning them their common name; Siamese Fighting Fish. In no circumstances should you ever place two male Bettas within the same tank. If you love the vibrant colors of male Bettas and your heart and wallet is large enough for two, you’ll need to opt for a divided glass tank.

What is Betta Sorority?

A sorority often refers to a group of people or animals who share similar interests or aspirations. In terms of Betta Sororities, these are often 4 or more female Bettas that live together. Basically in short, a group of Bettas. Betta sororities involve some setup and research to ensure they work.

In terms of the tank in which you will keep the sorority, the bigger the better. The more space the Bettas have to swim away from one another, the less chance there will be of heated fights. A 20 to 30 gallon tank is generally sufficient for a Betta sorority.

Male Bettas cannot live in the same aquarium without a divide.

Male and female Bettas should only exist together for breeding purposes.

Female Bettas can live together in a sorority.

Factors that Determine if a Betta Sorority will be Successful

Even today, Betta sororities are very controversial in the fish world. While some owners are strictly against them due to the potential stress that they can cause among individuals within the tank, others have successfully maintained Betta sororities for years. The following factors ultimately determine if a sorority will be successful or not:

• Personality of each Betta Fish
• Size of the Tank/Aquarium
• Plant Coverage and Shelter
• Sorority Introduction

Setting Up a Betta Sorority

Setting up a Betta Sorority can be fun and exciting. Once you selected a tank for your new fish friends, next you’ll need to purchase some gravel or rocks and of course some natural or synthetic plants and Betta toys. The more hide holes and shelter, the less the Betta’s will fight one another. Each Betta in the Sorority will choose their own spot to rest within the tank so ensuring their is a plentiful supply of rest and quiet areas will keep the fighting to a minimum. Of course like any Betta aquarium you’ll also need a filter and medication if any Bettas fall ill.

Betta Sorority Trial and Error

Do not mistake housing Bettas together as simple or easy. Housing fighting fish together takes time and effort. If you have opted for a smaller tank, under 20 gallons you may notice one or two problematic Betta fish. These will appear to be the bullies of the sorority. If you see that one fish has become a bully hurting the others she may need to be removed and housed separately.

A Betta sorority needs to included a certain number of fish to ensure it’s success. Betta enthusiasts suggest that 4 is an ideal number for a sorority. Housing less than 4 Bettas together may lead to one being singled out and continuously bullied. When considering how many Bettas to have you will also need to take in account the size of your tank. In no circumstance should more than 6 Bettas be kept in a 10 gallon tank.

When selecting the Bettas to include in your sorority ensure that they are all female. Only females are able to live within a Betta sorority. When selecting the females, they generally have shorter fins but also have an ovipositor located on their stomach. Younger Betta females show less aggression meaning that a Betta sorority housed together from a young age are more likely to get along. Furthermore, when selecting your Bettas, choose a range of different colored fish. Research shows that female Bettas that look too similar show more aggression to one another.

A successful Betta sorority relies on minimal stress within an aquarium. The less stress placed on each Betta, the greater the chance of a sorority success story.

A minimum of 4 female Bettas should be included in a sorority aquarium.

A sorority tank should be 10 gallons or more.

Choose young and differing colored female Bettas to form a sorority.

Tank Requirements for a Betta Sorority

Before you rush out to buy all the items needed to set up a Betta sorority tank, it is important to first consider the emotional and physical changes the Betta will need to adapt to when being moved from an isolated tank to a shared tank. When a female Betta lives alone, the food pellets sprinkled into their tank or the live food given is entirely theirs. They do not need to compete to eat the food they are given. The shelter within the tank is entirely theirs with no competition for rest areas. This is important to consider when placing a Betta into a sorority. Enough food and shelter should be provided to ensure there is no reason for fish in the sorority to fight.

Stress in fish often leads to a disease outbreak. Ensuring the fish within the sorority do not become stressed is vital in maintaining a happy tank community. Due to the amount of Bettas within the sorority tank, the water quality will also diminish quickly if it is not up kept. Poor water quality will in turn lead to weak Betta immunity and increase their susceptibility to disease.

Minimum Tank Size for a Betta Sorority:

If you plan on housing a Betta sorority you’ll need to ensure you have at a minimum a 10 gallon tank. A tank smaller than 10 gallons is not suitable for a sorority. While a 10 gallon tank is often fine for a sorority of Bettas, the bigger the better. A 20 to 30 gallon tank will only allow the Betta fish more room to swim and hide and in turn mean less bickering will occur. If you are purchasing a tank new for your sorority, a longer tank is always better than a taller tank.

While the Betta fish in a sorority will live within the same tank, each Betta will want to establish their own territory. Whether this be under a rock shelter or the corner of the tank, providing them with enough space to do so is vital. A successful sorority has a plentiful supply of toys and shelter as well as space to move.

Shelter and Toys for a Sorority:

Providing multiple forms of protection within the sorority tank will ensure Betta on Betta fighting is kept to a minimum. Real freshwater plants, synthetic aquarium plants, rocks, driftwood and plastic aquarium shelters are ideal for Betta aquariums. The more shelter within the tank, the better.

Placing Bettas into a Sorority

Once you have set up the aquarium space for your Betta sorority it is time to introduce the new tank mates. Introducing each of your female Bettas at the same time can reduce territorial fighting. If you have purchased the fish from an aquarium, allowing their bubble bags to float along side each other is a great way to introduce the new friends. After 10 or so minutes slowly release each Betta into the aquarium space.

When Betta females meet one another some bickering may occur. While a small amount of aggression is common for the first couple of days in a Betta sorority tank, it is important to pay attention to ensure there is not a weak female who may fall ill at the hands of an aggressor in the tank. If you see one Betta constantly bullying others within the tank you may need to intervene and remove the fish to ensure the others are not antagonized.

If you cannot successfully house your female Bettas together, more than likely it is the personality of the individual Bettas opposed to the set up. Some Bettas tend to be extremely territorial while at the other end of the spectrum, some Bettas are mellow and due to this become targeted by other tank mates.

After ten or so minutes of the aggressive tank mate being removed, you can attempt to reintroduce that Betta to the sorority. If she persists to show aggressive behavior towards the other fish, she may need to be kept in an isolated tank.

Once you have set up your Betta sorority and all fish are living within the community happily, ensure you:

• Complete weekly 25% water changes to ensure water quality is maintained.
• Remove any Bettas that fall ill as soon as possible.
• Feed your sorority the right amount of food to ensure wastage does not rot at the bottom of the aquarium.
• Ensure the correct filter is being used to maintain water quality and remove waste from the tank.

Further Tank Mates for a Betta Fish

If you have tried a Betta sorority and have unfortunately not had much success, you may want an alternative fish friend for you beloved Betta. Just because another female Betta was not the perfect fit, does not mean that your Betta has to live alone. Betta females can also be housed with the following aquatic species:

• Mystery snails
• Ghost Shrimp
• Catfish
• African Dwarf Frogs
• Guppies
• Tetras

Read more about alternative Betta Tank Mates here.

Bettas can be housed with a number of other aquatic species.

Ensure you consider the effect a Betta sorority: ammonia levels, water quality and the amount of food supplied.

Risks Associated with a Betta Sorority Tank

While many fish enthusiasts are able to have a happy and healthy Betta sorority tank, these tanks take patience and often expertise. If you are a first time fish owner, a Betta sorority is not the place to start. Housing any two territorial animals together takes work and Betta females are no exception. While the females within this breed are far less aggressive than the males, they will always be a territorial fish breed. This means that if the sorority is not monitored, things can turn nasty. For instance, if one Betta female bullies another and bites their fin, fin rot can occur. Furthermore, if one Betta is being bullied they may not be able to access food and become malnourished or if left long enough, the Betta may starve.

Just like any number of fish kept in the same aquarium, the up keep is much greater than having one fish. The tank will need to be cleaned regularly to keep the ammonia levels down and the inhabitants happy. Bettas can happily live in a sorority although this can only be a possibility if the fish owner is vigilant and maintains the aquarium space.

If you are a first time fish owner, consider keeping one Betta before considering a sorority.

When to Split Up a Betta Sorority

While a Betta sorority can work, some just don’t. If you have set up an aquarium with hopes of starting a Betta sorority to only find your fish are fighting, don’t loose heart. If after one week the female Bettas are continuing to show aggression to one another (that is causing noticeable harm) it is time to break the sorority up. Bettas are aggressive by nature and some tend to be more aggressive than other. If you find that your sorority is just not working, chances are you’ve picked a bunch of highly aggressive Bettas. If you own a handful of tanks you aren’t using, separate your Bettas out. If you don’t own enough tanks, it may be time to sell off some of your Bettas or see a family or friend would like to own a fish friend as well.

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Providing your little Betta fish with a safe a comfortable place for them to rest, hide and sleep, is very important. Just like us, your Betta fish needs shelter and a bed to be happy and comfortable.

Placement of their housing, is just as important as the type of housing. As Betta fish are Anabantoids aka Labyrinth fish, which means that they have a labyrinth organ that functions similar to our lungs, and need air to breath.

Things to Consider

As a Betta’s natural environment is relatively shallow, trying to offer them a home at the bottom of a deep tank could either result in them drowning, or they simply may not use it at all. Should you have a deep tank, look for things that could offer a perch, or build the aquascape up high enough to be near the surface or about mid way down.

The opening needs to be wide enough, and easy enough for the Betta to find and move in and out of, as we don’t want them to feel trapped inside. This means that clear housing such as perspex or glass should be avoided, even if the opening is wide enough.This sort of material can be used for making custom shaped housing, but it must be covered or coated to make it clear to the fish that there is an obstruction there. If the fish can’t see the walls they may find it hard to find the exit becoming trapped inside.

The opening does not need to be on the side, it can also be on top. As long as there is enough cover for your Betta to get out of the light when it chooses to do so, then they would be happy with most setups.

Advantages of Giving Your Betta a Home

Simply put, a happy Betta is and active Betta and providing your Betta somewhere to sleep, hide, rest and play, is one of the simplest ways to help keep them happy and comfortable.

Long stalked plants not only give your Betta somewhere to play and hide, they could also offer them somewhere to sleep and rest as well. As Bettas feel more comfortable in among mid-density planting, you may want to consider using real plants to provide your Betta a home, which can also bring their own additional benefits. For more information on plants please read our articles:

• Live Aquarium Plants for Your Betta Fish
• How To Setup an Aquatic Plant Environment For Your Betta

Designing your aquarium’s aquascape with your Betta’s future home in mind, can help to determine what style of aquascape you could use, as well as the type of materials. For information on aquascaping and materials, please read our articles:

• Different Types of Aquarium Driftwood
• Designing an Aquascape

So having a nice little home for your Betta fish will not only help to improve their well being, they can also be incorporated into the overall design of your tank, complementing the aesthetics of your systems.

Different Types of Betta Homes

Here are a few of the different types of products that can be used as housing for your Betta fish.

Broad Leaf Plants

Not only can real plants offer somewhere for your Betta to play and hide, some plants such as the Amazon Sword and the Anubias, have broad leaves that the Betta can use as a bed.

Plastic Plants

By using plastic plants that have broad leaves, they can help complement the aesthetics of your aquarium whiling offering bedding for your Betta.

Floating Logs

Available in both natural cork bark and synthetic foam, these floating logs not only give your Betta somewhere to sleep and hide, they also give your Betta something to play with.

Betta Leaf Hammocks

A simple yet effective device. The hammock’s appearance can range from hyper realistic to colorful and vibrant, and is held in place with a simple suction cap. As these hammocks can be placed anywhere where there’s enough space, they offer greater flexibility when i comes to designing you aquariums aquascape.

Enclosures and Decor

From the humble cave or log, to the more ornate designs, a simple enclosure that offers your Betta a place to hide can make for an excellent home. You can build your own cave but stacking rock and stones, or by overlaying driftwood and covering them in Java moss. The one thing to remember when making your own, is to make sure that the components are securely fixed in place. Rocks and stones are glued in place, and the drift wood wont collapse in on itself.

If you are not so confident in building your own caves and hidey holes, there are also premade options available.

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