Itchy Feet Syndrome

Thailand...I can't stop smiling

2008-08-16T11:12:00.012Z

The land of the thousand smiles...and only a few more weeks to enjoy it.

Arriving in Thailand, we had taken the overland route from Cambodia and the contrast in wealth and infrastructure between the two countries was very apparent. As we walked the few metres across "No Man's Land" we quickly realised that there would be very few pot holes and a lot less apparent poverty. Entering Thailand, a land of solid unbroken roads, modern cars, working street lights and relative order, we couldn't stop ourselves from glancing back with sadness to a broken but unforgettable Cambodia.

I had already spent a fair bit of time in Thailand 6 years ago whilst on my 'first gap period' and as I was arriving to the end of my traveling slog, my main objective was to relax and ease my way back into reality. Arriving in Bangkok was therefore not what I would call a pleasurable experience. We took base in the in-famous Koh San Road, a backpacker's mecca of fake t-shirts, fake ID cards, Starbucks, McDs, KFC, Burger King, massage parlours, web cafes, street vendors and NEON lights ... it is an experience to spend time in this area, one that can be enjoyed for one day maximum.

We quickly left BKK and headed north to Chiang Mai for a little "peace and quiet" and elephants galor. Pressed for time, we had pre-booked our train to Chiang Mai and our day outting to the Elephant Nature Park. It was therefore imperative that we catch our train to make it to the Nature Park. As we arrived at the train station in BKK, I glanced at the train ticket, only to realise that unless a miracle happened which stopped the train from leaving on time, we would miss it by 5 minutes. Carrying our already too heavy, 15 kg backpacks, we made a run for it.

Arriving panting and sweating, we handed our ticket to the Thai ticket controller who, comfortably sitting behind his wooden table informed us (unsurprisingly) that the train had just left. By then, two motor - taxi drivers had already accosted us, trying to convince us that we could still catch the train, if they took us by motorbike to the next station - No it's not free : 300 Baht each.

Quick ... quick...think....decision

Before we knew it, we were zig-zaging in and out of traffic, holding on for dear life to this small thai man whilst trying not to fall off because of the 15kg backpack we are carrying. My helmet is too big and is nothing more than a thin oval shaped red piece of plastic with a strap ... I am feeling the fear!

We made it on time to the station. By then the price had increased to 600 Baht each, for a reason we still don't know. Haggle, haggle ... ok 400 Baht each. Done.

We sit for a minute waiting for the train to arrive. We jump on only to find that our seats are occupied. Why? How? MOVE! Finally the ticket controller arrives, and leads us off the train. He flashes his light on the ticket, points to the date and says repeatedly "No train, no today". We take a closer look at our tickets and become aware with dread that these tickets are for tomorrow, not today.

Crestfallen, we realise that the agency had made a mistake and we hadn't double checked the tickets. Damn it! To avoid losing the money we had paid for the train, the hotel and the elephants WE HAD to get to Chiang Mai that night. In the end, luck was with us. We avoided the 3rd class, wooden benches no AC carriage and managed to find two seats in 2nd class AC . Pfffff....

We arrived in Chiang Mai and were welcomed by the rain, which we would see a fair bit of over the next three days. We walked around town, indulged in a fresh cup of Starbucks coffee, walked around the touristy and overpriced night market and enjoyed the laid back vibe that continues to kick in this northern city.

The next day we headed to the Elephant Nature Park. The Elephant Nature Park is a conservation center that hosts 30 elephants who live, eat and play in their natural habitat - whilst "Eco Tourists" feed and bathe them. We enjoyed it ... they enjoyed it and it's for a good cause.

Soon it was time to train it back down to Bangkok, where we then had to catch a night bus (and subsequent boat) to the paradise island of Koh Tao. I had been waiting for this break from travelling reality for a few days now. I felt I needed to isolate myself a little from the world to prepare myself for the big return home.

Koh Tao was the perfect spot for that. It is a small island, which boasts amazing diving sites, a laid back attitude and very few activities other than:

Reading a good book propped back on a Thai pillow gazing at a turquoise coloured sea and Buddha Rock.
Marvelling at how awesome it is to be in such a chilled environment
Drinking pineapple shakes and eating banana pancakes.
Diving ... Diving ... Diving ... Diving ... Diving
Did i mention diving ?

My last week was spent doing little more than the above. I got the opportunity to hang out with a great group of people from Sunshine Divers, comparing travelling stories and drinking beer together waiting for the day to end.

The time to leave arrived too quickly. I was reticent and sad to leave this paradise-like bubble but excited nonetheless to see my family and friends. The journey back into Bangkok was nightmarish and long. We arrived on Koh San Road at 5 am and found ourselves walking aimlessly around smelly streets to find a hotel room. Luck was with us, we found the last available room in the only hotel that seemed to have 24h service.

The following day was a blur of lastminute shopping, plowing through huge shopping malls for gifts for family, friends and oneself.

Soon it was time to say Goodbye Thailand, Goodbye Asia, Goodbye Fellow Backpackers, Goodbye Utopian World of Discovery and Daily Surprises...

...my heart is racing at the idea that this great adventure is ending. That soon I will be having to adjust to reality, to the daily routine of life ... and say goodbye to my faithfull companion that has stuck by me over thick and thin during the past 11 months, through the cold, the dust, the dirt and the wet (...)

(...) until the next adventure.

For now, I am heading home to Nice, to enjoy the rest of the summer and to figure out what happens next ...

Cambodia - the road to Angkor

2008-08-11T09:10:00.014Z

Having endured a 10 hour bumpy ride from Saigon (which btw should have taken only 6hr), we arrived in Phom Penh tired and somewhat moody. We didn't really enjoy being hassled by touts, tuk-tuks and the many cambodian kids selling anything from wooden elephants to photocopied bestseller novels but hey this is Cambodia! We better get used to it.

Phom Penh is rather relaxing for a SE Asian capital city. It boasts a shaddy waterfront, a few Khmer Palaces and a dilapidated central market. Highly recommended activities include visiting the humbling and terrifying Killing Fields, people watching cambodian style (ie. watching scooters carrying 3,4,5 or even 6 people zig-zag-ing in and out of traffic!), honing your bargaining skills in the central market to purchase soap, fried crickets, pirated software/DVD/CD, fake watches etc ... and finally avoiding every tuk tuk driver and / or book-selling cambodian.

I met up with a friend of mine A, who decided to join me for the last three weeks of my trip. It was odd to leave the world of "solo travelling" and I think it ultimately made me lazy but it was enjoyable nonetheless. We hit the road fairly quickly, heading north to Siem Reap, the home of Angkor Wat - Cambodia's finest and most reverred example of Khmer temples. The bus ride was challenging in that we got stuck with the worst seats possible, impossible to recline and too high to lay your feet. After 3 hours, all my blood was in my toes and I was growing increasingly pissed off with the whole journey, wishing I could swap seats with all those people sleeping comfortably.

Once in Siem Reap, we found a hostel and a designated tuk tuk driver in less than 5 minutes (yes the're everywhere). I, by then was feeling a little queezy from the anti-malaria medication. I had avoided taken them in Central America and most of SE Asia but I quickly realised that Cambodian mosquitoes were surprisingly vicious and decided to make the most of my medical kit now that time was running out! Wrong decision as I started feeling ill, bad tummy and all. So in the end, I took the medication for 5 days.

We visited the temples of Angkor, the lost city of Khmer Kings, all beautifully set in a breathtaking park outside of Siem Reap. We grew quite fond of "our driver" especially when we noticed that he was studying english whilst we were visiting the temples. Needless to say, our tip at the end of the 3 days more than made up for the tough bargaining we had done initially. We're suckers through and through!

After Siem Reap, we followed other traveller's advice and embarked on an 8 hr boat ride through Cambodia's remote river system to make our way to a small town called Battangbang. The ride was an eye-opener. We saw remote parts of Cambodia, where people lived in very basic conditions, on small floating shacks with little more than a flimsy roof to protect them from the elements. Unlike Vietnam, the land is not really cultivated as the entire country was ravaged by bombs during the Vietnam war (and subsequently by the Khmer Rouges) - which makes for very raw images of nature.

Our last stop in Cambodia involved getting our hands dirty ... and indulging in some local cuisine. We took a cooking course where to be honest the only good thing that came out of it was the Chicken Amok I made. I managed to completely destroy the remaining three dishes on the menu through a combination of lack of skills and sheer fussyness (ie. not liking the initial ingredients and therefore omitting them !).

I will therefore leave you with a picture of yours truly in Action.

Enjoy!

Vietnam Part 3: Hoi An to Nha Trang

2008-07-24T12:59:00.004Z

I arrived in Da Nang late, joined a group of fellow travellers (2 couples from the UK) and shared a taxi to the ancient city of Hoi An. Hoi An is a quaint city, nestled in the Central region of Vietnam. It's the home to an old imperial city and a myriad of tailors.

My first objective was to find a tailor to cook up some clothes for me. Easily done, there were approx 20 tailors to each street ie. plenty to chose from. After some very sweaty attempts at trying clothes on ( trying winter clothes in 30C heat is NOT a good combination!), I settled from a few suits, a winter jacket and a dress ... all to be posted home using seamail (I know, playing with fire!). They will hopefully arrive by the time i need to start interviewing for jobs at home. Fingers crossed.

I met some rather interesting people in Hoi An. I shared a room with an english couple, who after one night, decided to not be a couple or rather to reach the "it's complicated" stage. I was then left in the middle, relaying information to the one then the other. An initially awkward situation, which turned out to be rather entertaining.

I also met up with some old friends from Central America. I finally caught up with an Irish couple who I had travelled with from Guatemela to Costa Rica in October last year. They are also reaching the end of their trip and I foresee that we will be spending a fair bit of time together over the coming weeks. Cool :)

I left Hoi An soon enough, having sent my boxes home and quickly growing tired of the constant pressure to buy photocopied books/chinese lanterns / TShirts / Cards/ Kleenex/ Water ... you name it...all at inflated prices.

I boarded a night bus to Nha Trang - which in itself was an interesting experience. I had heard of these "sleeper" buses - fitted with 3 rows of narrow bunk beds and cruising at high speed over numberous potholes whith music blaring and neon disco lights to add to the experience. An experience only valium could make pleasurable.

Nha Trang is described as the home of Vietnam's best beaches - a gross overstatement in my eyes. I arrived early enough to witness families soaking up the morning sun, undertaking their daily exercise routine on the beach. The beach was rather beautiful but this impression dissipated as I began to see garbage floating on the beach or people washing their clothes. I guess we are spoilt in Europe.

I also wanted to see for myself if Nha Trang could live up to its reputation as Vietnam's best dive sites. I had two dives to figure it out. The first dive was average, visibility was low, coral dead in parts and very little fish. The second dive was a lot better, huge coral reefs, colourful fish and a few small caves made for a fun dive.

Verdict: Remember that it's fun to dive even when you can't see much!

Laos - Luang Prabang - Vang Vieng - Ventiane

2008-07-24T12:07:00.003Z

What can you say about Laos?

Despite being one of SE Asia's poorest countries (by far), it has a peaceful quality to it.

It's chilled.

Relaxed.

So much that SE Asia is not anymore.

I flew from Hanoi to the northern city of Luang Prabang (LP for short). LP is located on the Mekong River and used to be the ancient capital of the Kingdom of Laos until the communist took over in 1975.

Rather surprisingly, LP boast small streets, fashionable coffee houses (no Starbucks, but who needs it here! The coffee is ace!), Buddhist temples, a night market, the Mekong River and most importantly French Baguette and Vache Qui Rit (for less that 1 USD!).

I stayed in an awesome hostel called SpicyLao. The vibe was amazing. As I arrived, people were playing badmington, everyone smiled, said hello ... made me feel welcome straight away.

The mood was already chilled but things were about to get better. After sharing a feast from the local market (12 pple hungrily tucking their fingers into sticky rice, fresh fish, chicken, sweet chilli sauce, nems...) it was decided that we would use the remnants of someone's St Patrick's Day face paint on each other before heading out to the bowling alley (the only place open after 11 pm as LP has a curfew).

The rest of the evening is blurry at best. It might look a little like this...

Food - Face Paint - Tuk Tuk - Bowling - BeerLao (the BEST) - Spicy Noodles - BeerLao - Home.

I had initially planned to stay 2 nights in LP, but in the end stayed 4. That is the nature of the place. Had a redcross massage, bought some souvenirs at the night market, sipped coffee, chilled on the veranda, went to a waterfall, chilled some more... and most of all enjoyed spending time with a great group of people. Jimmy, Kelly, Jan, the Dutch, the Irish, the Canadian...raaah...a great group.

The rest of my Lao trip was cut short due to monsoon amounts of rain. It rained...rained...and rained again from LP to Vang Vieng (the home of tubbing but I wouldn't know as i spent the day hiding from the rain watching friends) and finally to the capital Ventiane.

The rain eased off a little but I was only spending one afternoon in the capital as I had already booked my onward journey back into Vietnam. Ventiane was surprisingly manageable. A small city for a capital, benefiting from the Mekong River, ample green spaces and most notably a still strong french influence (with their own version of l'Arc du Triomphe!). Buildings have remained low, the post office still has it's french name and build ... and the food...well let's say it made a french gal happy.

Vietnam Part 2 : Halong Bay

2008-07-24T11:46:00.003Z

Halong Bay deserves a posting to itself, it is situated to the north of the Gulf of Tonkin, 3 hrs away from Hanoi. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, features thousands of limestone karts and isles in various sizes and shapes and is absolutely breathtaking.

Unfortunately, the only way to visit the islands are by using an organised tour. The format is somewhat appealing as visitors get to stay for a min of one night on a traditional vietnamese junk boat but the fact that there are over 400 junk boats in the bay at any one time is a clear negative.

I opted for a 1 night / 2 day tour which ensured that I experienced Halong Bay in the most efficient way (strap for time!). The trip was fun and I met some extremely interesting people. I had the opportunity to speak french canadian, to discuss Dubai's horse racing industry with a Belizean, all whilst chilling with some US graduates ans singing Karaoke.

Exhausting if you ask me!

Vietnam Part 1 : Hanoi to Sa Pa

2008-07-11T15:46:00.010Z

Vietnam is home to a blastering 84m people - all living in a rather small, dragon shaped country that boasts lushious country-side, huge mountains and beautiful scenery of submerged rice fields and arduous working farmers wearing cone hats.

I arrived in Hanoi, early July to find myself taken under the protective wing of one of my father's friends. He got me to my hostel, paid for the hostel, bought me a SIM card and treated me to the best french 3 course lunch I've had for over 10 months!

Despite being the capital of Vietnam, Hanoi is surprisingly manageable. Very few high rise buildings block the views, the center is a combination of old french colonial, modern low rise, a large lake ... all surrounded by a swarm of ant-like motorbikes.

The first day was spent exploring the old french quarters, gaining understanding of the multitude of tribal communities and customs at the Museum of Ethnology, being mesmerized by the traditional water puppet shows, indulging in some people-watching along Hoan Kiem Lake whilst sipping succulent vietnamese coffee and of course, enjoying some Pho on the many street stalls.

Soon it was time to head north to the mountainous region and market town of Sa Pa. Northern vietnam is famous for its mountains and is the home to many of the country's tribal communities, rice paddy fields and treks.

I was joined on this adventure by two English gals who had been teaching English in China for the past year and an Aussie graphic designer from Sydney. We boarded the night train, soft sleeper (meaning with AC, wooden panels and somewhat unsurprisingly no Vietnamese people) and endured 9 hours of uncomfortable rocking on very hard and thin mattresses.

We arrived early and quickly made a move towards the begining of our 2 day trek. As we arrived to the first village we were greeted by a hord of screaming girls who couldn't have been older than 12 years old. The questions (we would later discover) were standard: " Where are you from ? How old are you ? (automatic response is "oh very young" ... even when I answered 60 years old (only once!)) What is your name..."

Introductions done and dusted we started our trek amongst Vietnam's northern mountain range (3000 m above sea level), navigating our way through paddy fields whilst enjoying beautiful, breath-taking, mountain scenary. The young girls proved to be close allies, talking to us as they helped us navigate through the treacherous muddy paths.

Our trek was broken up by regular meetings with the local Hmong, Dao and Tay tribes which was most certainly one of the highlights of Sa Pa. These woman are stunning both in the character that emanates from their faces but also from the rich embroidered ethnic clothes they wear.

We stayed the night in a homestay, sleeping on mats on the floor protected by the elements by a flimsy and hole ridden mosquito net. Luckily the local "Happy Water" ie. Rice wine was practically on tap and the drinking games we played with our fellow travellers ensured that we all slept well.

I thoroughly enjoyed my Sa Pa experience. The friendliness of the locals was felt despite the clear tourist money flowing in the region. The views were breathtaking and the experience of meeting local tribeswomen will definitely stay with me for years to come.

Hong Kong ... the bling and the traditional

2008-07-03T13:33:00.003Z

It was always going to be impossible to surpass the experience I had 6 years ago in Hong Kong. I was staying with a friend (from Hong Kong), with her family, during Chinese New Year. I know. Top that.

Instead, I enjoyed it as a tourist. Visited the 10,000 markets in Kowloon, tried to resist the temptation of seeking AC vents (ie. in the tube, in malls, in fast food restaurants...) and embraced the stickyness that makes Hong Kong so special.

I met some lovely girls (from Aus and Ireland) and we explored the city together, even venturing out to the beach for one day.

All in all in was fun and allowed me to slowly get used to the fact that I was now in Asia.

Next stop Hanoi - Vietnam

Spending time with family

2008-06-28T04:15:00.003Z

It's hard to describe the sense of relaxation that comes from spending time with family after being on the road for so long. Distance (ie Australia) has made that I have never spent much time with my Mum's side of the family but somehow it didn't seem to matter. It felt right and relaxing to be there.

I drove up to the Gold Coast to see the matriach of the family, a pretty sturdy 86 old and an absolutely amazing 98 old (I want to be like him when I get to that age). It's hard when you try and pile up 30 odd years of absence in one day ... and ultimately it has to disappoint somewhat. But the effort was made and that's what counts. What we lack in memories, we get in the comfort of doing the right thing.

It has especially been fun to spend time with my cousins. Due to the age difference it is the first time that age hasn't mattered and that I have been able to share a great deal with them from hanging out with friends to having conversations about how odd and beautiful our family is. Being an adult ain't half bad.

Time to move on. Early start tomorrow - flying from Brisbane to Sydney to Hong Kong.

Last leg.

Sydney - vibrant and kicking

2008-06-26T03:24:00.004Z

After a few days of faffing about in Auckland, I finally arrived in Sydney. And excited, I was. A friend I had met on the Magic Bus in NZ picked me up from the airport and kindly hosted me for 3 days. It's funny how you can meet people, not really know them for a long time but really click.

I got introduced to what life could be like in Sydney (if i ever...). On the first night we went out for drinks and (amazing) Vietnamese food - here we were all huddled up around a small table, someone from Italy who'd lived in China, an Aussie from Chile, a few Spanish, French, Asian...everyone was represented. It was an exciting melting pot of ideas and experiences. It reminded me of London, a heterogenous buzzing society of people connected by their current location and thirst for new experiences.

I visited the sights, the opera house, the bridge, the Harbours, Bondi...and the weather was just stunning (which made for some pretty good photos!).

Highlights include the free ice cream (thank you Virgin), hanging out with B, seeing cute surfers in Bondi, ice cream, hanging out with an awesome group of people, the lime green bridesmaids (what not to do!) eating home made chicken pie and having tortilla (i know!) .

I could definitely live in Sydney. It's one of those places that seems to be right for so many people. Although I get the feeling of a you and us type of society where you have "foreigners" craving for some Aussie culture and interaction...and finding it hard to get.

Final stop in NZ - Sleepy Christchurch

2008-06-17T04:38:00.003Z

Sleepy Christchurch has been the final stop in my NZ adventure. And sleepy it sure is. I had planned to only stay 1 night and move on to Kairoura but shere laziness and the inability to swim with dolphins (too cold) convinced me that the best I could do was stay put for a few days.
But luckily (for me) things turned out pretty well. I had a fun night out on Manchester St's famed Disco Crazy institution aptly called Boogie Nights, saw way too many prostitutes for comfort and walked home with Spiderman. Or was it a drunk Kiwi pretending to be Spiderman ? ... I am confused.I then had the delight to meet two english cousins who happened to be exactly what I needed...a massive laugh! They just kept coming (the laughters) ... from trying to go out on Sunday night (spleepy town = impossible), trying to find a decent pie (same night - same result) ... riding the tram...eating fudge...and well planning to meet up in Sydney.

Overall Christchurch was a little like Geneva but with less Pezaaaaaz ... neutral, slightly bland but does the job quite well.

Next stop Sydney.

Dunedin...Dunedin....Dunedin

2008-06-11T04:57:00.004Z

I am sure that there are heaps of amazing things to do in Dunedin. The town looks rather nice and quaint but frankly I couldn't muster the strength to do more than eat (massive) NZ mussels and visit the Cadbury Factory.

Two very important things I might add.

The day I conquered the Nevis

2008-06-09T02:55:00.002Z

Not much needs to be said really. I gave my myself the fright of my life. It is completely illogical to throw yourself of a platform 134m up in the air, I know. But at the same time it is possibly the most exhilarating thing I have done in my life (yes, better than the skydive). The adrenaline rush that enthralled my body afterwards made me shake like a leaf for a good 20 minutes after the jump. As I screamed my way down the canyon, I couldn't help but think " what the f@#ck are you doing!...this is craaaaaazy". Yes, I screamed like there was no tomorrow.

You should do it too (famous last words!)

South Island, New Zealand

2008-06-07T23:33:00.004Z

The first part of my itinerary round the South Island started in Wellington across to Picton, Nelson, Greymouth, Franz Josef, ending up in Queenstown for a few days. NZ is one amazing place, I've been oooh-ing and aaah-ing my way round this country. The north has a lot of beautiful scenaries and cool Maori stuff to check out. While on the south island it's all about the scenary and the cool activities and the sheer fact that it seems that NOBODY lives here.

I have on this leg met a few people on the Magic Bus. While you definitely feel like you're being pulled along (ie. like a tour) it does make things a little easier in terms of meeting people as you see the same people hop on and hop off at different places/times. So I have spent the last few days with a French girl called Emilie (a midwife working in New Caledonia), a Spanish girl called Bea (who changed her life and moved to Sydney!) and a Scottish guy called Grahame from Aberdeen (that i can barely understand hence I don't know much about it). So we've spent the last few days together hanging out and travelling around.

The highlight so far has been doing the ice hike on the Franz Josef Glacier. I had had the opportunity to strap on some crampons whilst in Argentina (Perrito Moreno) but I am glad I refrained and got to do it here. The hike to the glacier was quite challenging, scrambling across rocks, climbing up and down ladders ... walking a fair bit! Then we reached the foot of the Glacier, put our crampons on and up we went. Walking on ice is rather strange but heaps of fun. Unfortunately I opted out of the heli hike to the top of the Glacier so our ice was rather rocky and grey but we got to see some pristine clean blue ice and climb through an ice hole (magic!). I felt like a true adventurer !!!

The weather has been bitterly cold. I have been wearing pretty much all my clothes and I am still feeling the cold. The ski season has just opened here in Queenstown and I am still undecided as to go up for a day or not. The "domaines"are pretty small (4 lifts!) and it's rather expensive (count 100 Eur for the day) but it would be cool to get some snowboarding in this year...especially in June!

Other than that I will be facing my fears this afternoon and doing a bungy jump (The Nevis). Thought that if I was going to do one, I might as well do the BIG ONE. I am cacking myself. Literally.

Maori discovery in Rotorua and Lake Taupo

2008-06-02T03:52:00.005Z

Leaving the northern shores of Auckland behind, I arrived in "smelly" Rotorua as it is affectionately called. Smelly? Yes, rotten eggs smelly. Blame sulfur! It lies right bam in the middle of a geothermal area and this results in smelly fumes coming out of nearly everywhere! Although it provides a eery landscape it can be quite overwhelming especially when you are not used to it.

Another reason for its appeal as one of the main tourist attractions in the Bay of Plenty is its deep rooted Maori heritage. I attended a cultural show that was run by a company called Tamaki. They state that their aim is to educate and share their culture. They did a great job at getting us immersed in the culture for the evening. We boarded our Waka (our bus but for the night but it would serve as our pretend Maori boat), elected a chief , sang Maori songs, courageously overcame the Te Wero (challenge) and entered the village in peace. From there we entered the Wharenui (meeting house) where a group sang, danced and performed the famous Haka. We were then treated to a succulent Hangi (where the food is cooked in baskets underground). The entire evening was very educational and entertaining. A great event which I would recommend.

The next day, with a very full belly I visited the Waitopu Thermal Park. The different sites were absolutely breathtaking, with vibrant colours mixing with fumes and water. While in the park I met a french couple who were visiting from New Caledonia. I have met a number of french people who live in the french TOM and visit New Zealand or Australia. They told me about their lives on the island, their relationships with the locals (les Kanaks) ... and my overall conclusion is that it might look like a paradise but I get the impression that by digging a little deeper is might not be soo ' paradisiaque'. Expensive imported products, poor communication with the locals and even perhaps a slight colonialist atmosphere make the french TOM (Territoires d' Outre Mer) a little less appealing than they might have been before.

Next I moved Southward to Lake Taupo. En route I saw the Mt Doom from the Lord of the Rings film (not sure what the real name is). As I moved south the weather was getting bitterly cold. Taupo supposedly offers the best (and cheapest) skydiving experience in NZ. By then I was a bit tired of spending money on such exhilarating activities so decided to take the free (and safer) option of walking from Lake Taupo to Huka falls. I wonder if I will get tired of seeing so many beautiful sights. NZ is definitely full of them!

I also saw the latest Indian Jones film. Harrison Ford was as entertaining as ever but I wonder if I would have enjoyed it more if I was 10 years old again. Aaah...yes I have also discovered TIM TAM chocolate biscuits and Vegimite. Probably the best edible products to come out of these shores (without risking to offend the Ozzies...I will include Oz in this statement!).

Activity Packed ... yes it's Auckland

2008-05-27T10:27:00.005Z

You have to wonder when the first sight you see on the bus from the airport (at 5 am) are people exercising (jogging) in cold dark weather. Yep .. .that 's Auckland. A large modern city which hides its beauty in the surrounding volcanoes and the vast amount of sea that surrounds it. I (supposedly) was lucky in that the weather was gorgeous, slightly cold (for me) but beautifully sunny and crisp fresh air.

Taking example from these very sporty people I had seen that morning, I decided to go to the pool for a bit of a splash (yep after a 12 hr flight) ... and of course the fact that I couldn't check in until 12 nudged me in that direction. I then visited the Victoria Market (bof), bought some gloves (necessary) and went for a wander around town.

Luckily, my mum who had lived in Auckland some 40 years ago still had a few friends around. On day two I was taken round the sights, Takapuna beach, Mt something or the other... all vv beautiful. I indulged in a good lunch, coffee, dinner ... and eventually made it back to my mum's friends house for a good night sleep in a proper (ie. non hostel) bed. Luxury.

Day three was Activity Day... and involved walking up Rangitoto (a volcano). The day was amazing, the walk relatively easy (ie. less than 1 hour each way) except for the last bit where I had to count my steps in order to make it to the top. I am definitely a weekend walker. The views were worth it though.

I thoroughly enjoyed my stay in Auckland. Swam in the local pool, walked around town, had some sushi and actually found crossing the road fun (they have a beep ... swissh...noise that makes you want to race across the street!).

Next stop Rotorura via Hamilton

The Weird (Sometimes) and the Wonderful

2008-05-22T09:45:00.006Z

Having spent my 30th birthday in Texas with M (thanks yall!) it was time to move north to the almighty Arkansas. A very good friend from my Exeter days was living in a small peaceful town located near the border between Oklahoma and Arkansas. A whirlwind of fun and activity was about to take place. From my memories of our times in Exeter, I would have found H anywhere in the world as I knew that fun was close to being guaranteed.

I was excited to meet her family and her sisters Heidi, Harmony, Hope (yes my friend's name also starts in H) ... I had heard so much about them ... they didn't disappoint. Her family welcomed me in and I indulged in their kindness and lightheartedness. It's an awesome feeling when you meet people and can share a belly laugh with them 2 minutes after meeting them.

If I had to list the many activities I experienced in the space of 3 short days I would include a picnic in a park, coffee on broadway, a french party, an adventure ride to a casino on Cherokee owned land (I won big! ...3 times my bet!), a trip to Walmart (this IS a big deal in Walmart-Country-Arkansas), a visit of the Walmart Museum (remember those 7 points of success), cooking pancakes (twice!) , eating potluck, seeing Kangaroos, Emus, Zebras, Tigers ... etc in a safari park, relaxing next to waterfalls... the list goes on.

But more than a list of extremely cool things experienced with an awesome group of people, I enjoyed spending quality time with a very good friend and getting to know a little bit more about faith. I am not really a religious person. I am not sure if it's because of the overbearing nature of Catholicism (being born and bread in France!) or the ostentatious ornaments within churches that make me wonder whether that money could have been better spent elsewhere, or the inherent dogma attached to most religions ... For those reasons (and others) I would most likely consider myself agnostic.

But I learned a great deal about Christianity during my short time with H. I did my best to keep my mind open and my ears alert. I listened to other people's beliefs and even attended a Sunday service. What I saw was a group of people open to ideas, cherishing a strong belief without imposing it on others. I enjoyed the strong sense of community and immense solidarity that stemmed from this shared belief. It is also very comforting to believe that there is a superior being that is more powerful than anything we do, have or suffer ... Although I haven't quite made up my mind yet, I have learned a lot and am grateful for the good wishes and prayers I received.

All too soon it was time to say goodbye and head to slick LA. If you ever need to book a hotel and are not too fussed about which one it is, I would recommend you use Hotwire. As a treat, I booked into a 4 star hotel near the airport (paid 80 USD !!!) and enjoyed the luxuries for one last night. I had one day to kill in LA so I opted against fighting the famous traffic jams and contented myself with taking a free shuttle bus to the beach somewhere. It was a nice day out.

Next stop: Auckland, New Zealand.

Milestone

2008-05-14T14:14:00.003Z

Road to ....

Today I leave the terrific twenties and enter the best decade to date (so I have been told)....

Whoop! Whoop! Whoop!

I am a poor lonesome cow Giiirl !!!

2008-05-11T20:35:00.002Z

I left my parents in Houston TX and boarded my 45 min flight to Killeen, TX so see a very good friend from MC. Killeen is small military town situated 1.5 hrs north of Austin. M was there to welcome me with both her children, A who is 5 and the latest ickle one called Y who is only 8 months old.

I love spending time with M and her family. M was the first one of my closest friends to start a family and it' s great to see beforehand what will hopefully come next (at some point!).

I quickly settled in, made myself right at home, played with the kids, ate their food, drank their beers .... just kiddin' . It felt great to catch up and be part of their family for a little while.

We also had a huge BBQ on Saturday to celebrate on big 3.0 early. It was amazing. Good food, nice people, loads of room, activities, beers, frozen margueritas...we even tried to build a swing and failed miserably !

Meet a new Mac User

2008-05-07T21:14:00.002Z

Birthday present to be remembered.

I switched ...

Made the big jump ...

Bitten the bullet ...

Bought my First Mac.

Sweet.

Sing it Bruce...

2008-05-07T14:37:00.003Z

Born in the Usaaaah...

I never thought it would feel soo different. I mean, Mexico is very americanised by South American standards, McD, Starbucks, Big Malls ... it's all there. But arriving in Houston, i was hit by the spectacle of over-consumerism that reigns there. To be fair to Houston, unless you plan on visiting NASA there's not much else to do here (sorry). So that is exactly what I have been doing - (window) shopping.

But let's go back a few days. I said goodbye to my colleagues and my friends and welcomed my mum to the jungle of D.F. We spend a few days getting over her jet lag, staying in a posh 5 star hotel (oh..dorms will be tough after this!) and getting a massage :) . We then braved the horrendous and infamous traffic and hit the road in our rented car (people, you would have been proud!). My suggested itinerary over a little over 5 days was DF to San Miguel de Allende, to Guanajuato, to Morelia, to Taxco ...back to DF. All this probably means nothing to most , but all I can say (now having seen it) is that is it amazingly beautiful. We stopped in beautiful and picturesque colonial towns, soaking up the atmosphere and enjoying the typical Mexican hospitality (have i mentionned how mexicans are the NICEST pple ever!). It was a little bit like Thelma and Louise - but without Brad or the chase.

I feel lucky being able to do something like this with my mum. We had a great time and shared many many laughs together.

It ended all too soon and before I knew it I was at the airport boarding a Continental flight. I was genuinely sad to leave Mexico. The people, the city, the work, the friends I have made ... all have made this one of the best experience possible.

But now for something a little different. I met up with my Dad in Houston and have enjoyed spending time with him (although given the work schedule (his) this hasn't amounted to that much...) and well shopping with mum (you gotta love the dollar!).

Next move - going to see one of my closest friends TOMORROW!!! I am very excited and we will be celebrating our big 3o together. PARTY-PARTY-PARTY-

Raaaah...bring on life after 3o!

D for Departure

2008-05-04T16:39:00.004Z

Eight months ... eight amazing months of adventure, contrasts, discoveries and new friendships.

Let there be more.

Next stop USA

Mexico City Departure Date: D - 15

2008-04-17T18:24:00.002Z

The decision has been made. I will leave Mexico and the entire continent of Hispano-Landia in May. How will I cope ? Having been surrounded by dark skinned Spanish speakers for nearly 8 months what will happen of me ? I will be understood by everyone, look like everyone else, dress like everyone ...

oh...

... joy.

Or is it ?

Finally... a little "field work"

2008-04-11T21:03:00.004Z

I had been waiting for this moment since starting my work in Microfinance in Mexico back in February ... the opportunity to get "down and dirty" in the field finally got presented to me when I was asked to join the Regional Manager on a number of project visits in San Luis de Potosi and Morelia. Although all this sounds very exciting (and parts of it definitely were!), I am exhausted, tired of the 3 consecutive 4 am wake up calls, of 40 min flights in very small planes and, who would have thought possible...tired of eating out!

But despite these minor disagreements, the experience was extremely interesting and enlightening in the fact that I got to see first hand the benefits of using Microfinance to help people better their lives.

I got to see two very different projects but in both cases the funds loaned could make a real difference to the future of these organisations.

First stop was in San Luis de Potosi to visit a Microfinance organisation (MFIs) called FinCrecemos. MFIs are similar to banks as in they give out loans and can sometimes provide saving/insurance products but the key difference is that they will offer small loans and will not require a guaranty (collateral) from their customers. Usually, MFI target low income women who aim to start or already have a commercial activity. Interest rates are higher than commercial banks (approx 7% per month) but a lot lower than their only alternative, ie loan sharks who charge in their area 10% per day!

In order to receive a loan of approx $200, they must create a solidarity group (in this case the minimum was 12 people), have had a address for at least 1 year and have or look to create a commercial activity (from anything to Taco stall to selling flowers..etc).

We were given the opportunity to meet a credit promoter (the woman who is the link between the MFI and the end clients), her supervisor, the Director of the MFI and a group of women who are receiving a loan. We interviewed all these people trying to get a 360 view of the whole process. It was eye opening as I got to see how a little trust could really go a long way!

Both the women working for the MFI and those receiving the loans were very serious about their responsibilities, enthusiastic and well organised. It was clear and accepted that this was a business to them and not charity. It made them feel important and trustworthy.

Not a bad result in terms of empowerment for women.

The second project I visited was a Fair Trade company called Fairtrasa, a fruit exporter (mainly avocado but incorporating grapefruit, blackberries, lime and even wine!) based in the Michuacan region of Mexico.

This project is categorised as a "production"project which we were drawn to because we aim to increase our support of Fair Trade organisations around the world. Unfortunately I was not able to go see the avocado producers (no time) but I did get a good understanding of the issues relating to fair trade organisations and how they aim to "put a little back into the community".

This project was interesting in the fact that it demanded an analysis of the business as a whole as well as the financial analysis required to give out the loan (so again, a different twist on the whole process).

In both these projects, I saw respect, drive and the desire to grow, develop, improve lives without the need to government intervention.

I am now tired but happy. I have interesting responsibilities ahead that span from the financial analysis of these proposals to finding new target projects in Mexico. Should keep me nicely busy for a while.

Off home for a well deserved rest.

PS: Am also v chuffed and slightly intrigued as to how I managed to get by (Spanish wise) translating what was said to me from Spanish into English (via french) as all my notes are in English !

Semana Santa in Belize, March 2008

2008-04-03T19:59:00.004Z

First stop in Belize was Orange Walk, a small city in the northern part of Belize which is the usual port of call for anyone that wants to see Lamanai,the site of pre-colombian Maya ruins dating back to the 16th Century BC. Although impressively set in the jungle a 2h boat ride from Orange Walk, I think I was a little ruined-out by then. I did enjoy getting a bit of a tan on the boat and seeing one crocodile. Shame we were surrounded by American Southerners....they gave a whole new meaning to the word southern drawl.

Next stop was the jungle. We stayed at Ian Anderson´s Caves Branch a Jungle resort of sorts, which combines luxury tree house accomodation and budget dorms. Guess where we stayed? The whole camp was actually quite cool, combining isolation (and howler monkeys!) with the perks of warm water in outdoor showers and comfortable beds. We set off on the Black Hole Drop expedition, which involved a challenging trek through the jungle and them being dropped off into the Black Hole (300 ft drop) with ropes ...of course.

After my 2 day stop in the Jungle I decided to go full circle and return to the same country I started this trip ... Guatemala. I had not had the opportunity to see Tikal the first time around and thought it would be fitting to return to Guatemala 6 months down the road. Unfortunaly my disposable camera failed me on this occasion, so no pictures.

Nothing could prepare me for the truly awesome feeling of walking by the Tikal Temples minutes before dawn, listening to the howler monkeys and the different bird species waking up in this isolated jungle setting. I have definitely found my favourite Maya Ruin Experience.

Next stop was the Caribbean coast and the laid back coral limestone island of Caye Caulker. Caye Caulker is definitely chilled, there are no cars (except for golf carts), no big hotels but plenty of hammocs, rustic cabanas and rum punch! The people have a definite caribbean feel, polite and very friendly. They call it a Backpacker´s Heaven and I know why!

Unfortunately there are no beaches as the coast is filled with algue which makes any attempt to take a dip rather unpleasant. But for those who like to dive, opportunities to get out there abound, whether you want to swim with nurse sharks or see the famous manitees.

The place is perfect if you want to relax and not do much more than read a book and go for food. Which is exactly what I did. I also indulged in a little more rum than I probably should have but it made for unforgettable memories.

Soon enough it was time to say cheerio and embark on the journey home. I had initially planned to take a 2 hr boat ride to Corozal but plans changed dramatically when it appeared that boats didn´t leave at the time it said on the schedule. This is the Caribbean after all ... Instead, I took a boat ride to another Caye, boarded a plane to Corozal, then a bus over the border into Mexico. I then had a 22h bus ride to look forward to in order to get back into Mexico City. All fun and games except that the friggin´HSBC cash machine ate my card and that Mexico ´s Executive buses equal Argentina´s cheapo buses ... ie. they´re crap.

Back to life...back to reality

2008-04-02T16:33:00.003Z

I haven't posted since the 14th March...yikes... i definitely do not deserve passing the 2000 mark in terms of site visits (raaah!)

I have had a busy two weeks - galivanting (as my mum would say) around Mexico and Belize (I included a bonus stop into Guatemala to see Tikal). It's been so long I don't even know where to start.

First as previously mentioned, my camera died while I was in Chichen Itza. This has resulted in having to go back in time and use a disposable camera. I purchased three in total and have ended up with a grand total of approx 10 acceptable photos. Nice ratio, don't you think? Although clearly disappointed with the result, the old, worn out look is growing on me. Let me know what you think.

First stop after Chichen Itza was Playa del Carmen, a small fishing village that has turned out to be a second Cancun in the making. It is part of the Riviera Maya, the Mexican version of the French Riviera which caters mostly to American tourists.

It's not everyone's cup of tea. I was there during Spring Break which meant many (too) Americans - university students and family alike walking around La Quinta (the main street) which boasts souvenir shops, pharmacy (for prescription drugs that are available OTC in Mexico), Starbucks, Papa Johns, Subway, BKing, McDo ... etc..etc...Not quite what I was expecting.

On a postive note, I enjoyed a day at the beach and got to witness first hand Mariachi singing outside our hostel.

Next stop was Tulum a small village further down the coast towards Belize, which has the most beautiful setting for Maya ruins in Mexico. With hindsight I would have rathered skipped Playa and gone directly to Tulum. It has beautiful beaches, turquoise waters, flour-like sand and best of all .... very little infrastructure. If you ever dreamt of drinking an ice-cold Corona somewhere in Mexico ....you should do it there.

As I was battling with the surf, looking extremely sexy with my newly-purchased kids goggles (cheaper!), I got talking to a bunch of kids who were having fun in the waves nearby. It turned out that they were on a day out with their english teacher. They seemed excited to be able to practice their english , so we chatted along about their Maya culture, learning english, Mexico, the beach...everything and anything.

Very cool.

Next stop Belize.