Because your cat spends 10% of his time grooming himself with his tongue, hairballs are a risk to his digestive system.  When your cat’s tongue is coated with hair, the only thing your cat can do is swallow it.

Hopefully, most of the swallowed fur will simply pass through your cat’s digestive system and be eliminated in his stools (poop).  But once in the stomach, those hairs – which are not easily digested – can start sticking to other stomach contents such as saliva, undigested food, and gastric juices … and the hairball is born.  Like rolling snowballs, cat hairballs grow larger. They then begin to irritate your cat’s stomach – which usually triggers vomiting.

When your cat is trying to rid itself of a hairball he will probably have your attention – with coughing, gagging, retching, and other pleasant sounds associated with throwing up.  Should your cat not be able to rid itself of the hairball by vomiting or leaving it in the litter box, your pet could be in real trouble. Felines can choke on hairballs and – in severe cases – surgery will be required to clear a hairball blockage.

If your cat has a stubborn hairball symptoms can include:

…    loss of appetite or
…    eating only small amounts at a time
…    weight loss
…    depression
…    loss of energy

Your cat might regurgitate undigested food.

Cat hairballs do not actually look like balls. They are, in fact, tubular or sausage shaped and can easily be confused with poop. Usually, the easiest way to find a discarded hairball is to walk around in the dark with bare feet.

Sometimes, health problems can cause your cat to lose and then swallow a lot of hair.  Excessive hair loss in cats can be a symptom of poor health. As a rule, feline hair loss should not be patchy, but fairly uniform. If parasites or allergies are making your cat itchy he will scratch, lick and swallow more hair. Skin disease or a poor diet can cause hair loss. Give your cat the best cat food you can afford.

Stress can cause a cat to over groom.  Older and overweight cats who aren’t very active can spend more time grooming.

Vomiting the occasional hairball is considered normal for cats but reoccurring vomiting is not. If you have concerns, contact your vet.

Preventing Hairballs

1. Create a grooming routine for your cat, especially in a long-haired cat. The more of his shedding fur you can remove via a brush, the less he will remove in his personal grooming. For cats who dislike brushing, consider the specially-designed gripper gloves. The gloves allow you to remove loose fur from your cat while petting him.
2. Feed your cat a specially formulated food designed to prevent hairballs. It is usually higher in fat than other adult cat food. The food, therefore, offers a better lubricant for the cat’s intestinal tract. The cat eliminates the hairball without coughing it back up.
3. Provide your cat with a back scratcher or other device designed to collect loose fur. Many cat toys are designed to encourage your cat’s self-grooming. These toys have small nubbins to massage the cat and help with shedding.
4. Add two tablespoons of olive oil to your cat’s dry food once a week. The oil will help keep your cat’s fur soft and silky, and it will help her pass any hair that he does consume.
5. Keep your cat active. Often, cats will resort to grooming themselves when they are bored or if they have skin irritants. Keep your cat healthy and active to reduce the number of hairballs you have to see.
6. Keep catgrass in your home.  You can get this at your local pet food store.  Cats nibble on it and it helps their digestion and cleanse their intestinal tract.
7. Introduce fibre to your cat’s diet by adding canned pumpkin to its food. Make sure you purchase the pumpkin that is not spiced and not pumpkin pie filling. Mix 1 tsp. with your feline’s food. Many cats will eat pumpkin when it is mixed thoroughly with a meal.
8. If you suspect that your cat has a hairball, treat it with 1/2 tsp. of Vaseline. Spread the Vaseline on the cat’s paw or lip and they will ingest the Vaseline as they lick the area. This will help the hairball to pass with the least stress to the cat. Or buy hairball remedies at your local pet food store.  They come in paste or lick stick forms.

Hairballs can become a serious cat health problem. If you suspect your cat or kitten is sick, the best thing to do is to consult your veterinarian.

Watch for changes in your cat or kitten’s behavior. Things like depression, lethargy, or an unusual lack of interest in eating usually indicate that something is not right. Also pay attention if your cat appears constipated.

You should contact your veterinarian immediately if you notice any of these symptoms.

There are many motivating factors for someone to decide to volunteer:

1. Moral Reasons – Volunteering is the right thing to do — we all know that.  In times like today where society encourages that money is the answer to everything and that you have to be the best at any cost, it is easy to forget that this is not the answer.  Volunteering reminds you of your blessings and puts your gripes in perspective.  No matter how tough times are, it always feels good to help someone less fortunate because, there is ALWAYS someone or some animal less fortunate that you.
2. Health & Happiness – Studies show that volunteering boosts one’s happiness and wellbeing.  It has been proven that those who work to further causes they believe in tend to be happier and healthier, experience fewer aches and pains, and even live longer. And it’s
   not just that helpful people also tend to be healthier and happier; studies show that helping others itself causes happiness.
3. Ability to Contribute – While most non-profits struggle with daily expenses in good times, when tough times hit, it is an even bigger struggle.  With budget cuts the challenge
   is to do more with less. If non-profits need services such as graphic design, document
   translation, grant letter writing, event planning or marketing expertise they’d normally pay outside sources to do.  During tough times, it is almost impossible to get these things done as donated money is harder to come by. If you have any of these skills or want to
   learn them, this is a great opportunity to contribute.
4. Learn New Skills – Most non-profits are in need of people skilled in varying tasks whether it is building shelters or designing flyers or website development.  If you don’t necessarily have these skills but are interested in learning them, volunteering at a non-profit is the way to go.  You most likely will have ample opportunity in a friendly setting to learn these skills in a no-pressure non-competitive environment.  You may even meet another volunteer who could be your mentor.  It could open up a whole new world for you while helping others.
5. Beef up your Resume – Whether you are unemployed or looking to add to your resume, volunteering at a non-profit is the way to go.  You will not only learn new skills
   (see #4) and responsibilities but you will expand your network and show future employers that you are a hard worker.  Volunteering will fill in gaps in your experience that you currently have as well as show you as a well-rounded person which today’s employers are
   looking for.
6. Expand your Social Network – One advantage to volunteering is the vast amount of interesting people that you will meet who you may never have met otherwise.  Whether you are looking to expand your business network or your social network, there is no better place to look that at volunteering.  And if you are shy, then you will have an easy area of commonality to break the ice – the cause.
7. Spiritual Reasons – Whether you believe in God or karma or any other spiritual enlightenment, volunteering will fill you up with the joy and satisfaction that could not be attained elsewhere.  True spiritual fulfillment starts with giving to others, regardless of the cause.  You will receive blessings back for your efforts, generosity and compassion.

Don’t just take our word for it.  We asked one of our most dedicated volunteers, Marie Galati, a married mom of twins and a full-time daycare worker, on how she came to volunteering and what she gets out of it.

Q:  When did you begin volunteering and why?

A:   I started volunteering on July 1st of 2009 after seeing a flyer in a pet valu looking for volunteers to help out at a local shelter.   Since I love cats so much, the thought of 180 in one place was so exciting for me!!!!  I began volunteering because, as a mom, my days were centered around my kids and I just needed something for myself to do that was calming and tranquil and I find that at the shelter I am so happy…calm and relaxed!!

Q:  Have you volunteered before?

A:  Never volunteered anywhere else.

Q:  What interested you about this volunteer opportunity?

A:  What interested me most about the shelter is that it is a no cage no kill shelter. The cats live in that home roam free and are able to express their true personalities. How can you truly get to know a cat behind a caged door. The cats are so happy and peaceful there
that it truly is one of my favourite places to be.

Q:  What activities do you do for the shelter?

A:  At the NTCR,  I usually start cleaning the kitchen when I first arrive because after breakfast time the sink is FULL of dishes!!!  I usually make my way from room to room changing and washing litter trays, sweeping floors, shaking blankets, filling food and water bowls and then I give myself 30 minutes before I have to go to cuddle and kiss as many cat faces as I can!!!! It’s very contagious because as soon as you start to kiss and hug one,
they all come for their turn and I can’t say no! I also do fundraising for the shelter and raised $1200.00 in May of 2011 by hosting a garage sale at my house.  I also set up booths at malls and get awareness out there about our shelter and how people can adopt our amazing cats!!!

Q: What is the best part of volunteering and why?

A:  The best part of volunteering for me is when you see a stray cat arrive who is in bad shape, but within a few months of being surrounded by love at the shelter, the cat makes an amazing recovery and I love when they find their forever homes!!!! I have seen it happen so many times and every time it makes me so happy and I know that what I am a part of is making a HUGE difference in the world of cats and our community!!!

Q: What are some of the challenges or things you dislike and why?

A:  Some of the challenges are when the cats are sick and trying to keep the infections from spreading. I wish people would spay and neuter their cats!! It’s so frustrating because too
many have to suffer if not given help in time!!!

Q:  How much time per week do you volunteer?

A: I volunteer every Friday from 6:30 am -10:30 am and in the summer I will go
Wednesday night from 5:30-9pm, so usually 9-10 hrs a week. I go on holidays
too if I’m needed.  But these hours are my choice and not demanded by the shelter.
You can pretty much work as much or as little as you want as long as you are reliable and consistent.

Q:  How does your family feel about your volunteering?

A:  My family calls me the CRAZY CAT LADY but they are 100% supportive of what i do. They donate money, cat toys, litter and other items to the shelter and always ask me “how can I help?”.  I’m surrounded by love and that’s why i can give so much love back to the cats!!! My husband is amazing at taking care of our kids while I’m at the shelter for 2-5 hrs and my 7 year old boys even volunteer too. They have learned so much from the experience!!

Q: What do you think or hope the impact of your volunteerism is on your children
/ husband / community?

A:  I believe in giving and being a part of a bigger picture. I know my kids have learned so much about helping others and always refer to our work at the shelter as “God’s work”
because I told them that God helps us in our lives every day and we need to help the cats and be a part of their family while they wait for their forever home. They sold cupcakes once at a garage sale and raised $40.00 on their own for the cats!! I told them it would keep the cats tummies full for a long time with a big bag of food and they we’re very proud of themselves!!

Q:  What advice would you give someone who is thinking about volunteering?

A:  I can’t express enough how amazing it is to walk into the NTCR and feel the love from so many cats. Volunteering is a very rewarding experience and I say DO IT!!!!! You’ll be so happy you did and will become addicted like we all do at the shelter!!!! Nobody wants anything from you there except to be loved…so come on in, sit on the floor and feel them
climb all over you with love and wet kisses!!!

As you  can see, Marie came to the shelter with a passion to help.  She was not trained in any specific trade such as veterinary technician or marketing guru.  But she knew that she could find a way to help and she did so in a huge way.  And she is spreading the word and the joy of volunteering to family and friends.  This kind of passion and commitment is contagious and it helps build a better community.

Not sure how you can help?

A lot of people feel that they want to help but shy away from it because they fear that they don’t have anything of value to offer or are afraid that they may be stuck doing something that they don’t like.  At NTCR, volunteers of all kinds are essential to help us continue to save lives.  No one is too young or too old to contribute.

NTCR realizes that everyone has various amounts of time and skills to offer and we
appreciate everyone for their efforts great and small. Please peruse the list to see where you fit in and what you can do to help. Applicants can be any age (under 14 must get their parent’s permission). Then contact Grace – our volunteer coordinator today!

Transporting

There are times when the animals need to be taken to and from vet appointments and we
always need volunteers to help transport back and forth.

Fundraising Events

Join us to help plan or just work individual events. Volunteers are always needed at
events to set-up/breakdown, help the public, cashier, etc. We also need help with tabling at events or garage sales. Here you would hand out materials and educate the public about NTCR.

Cleaning

The shelter is cleaned every morning and evening. The more people that we can get
to aid us in this, the faster it goes.  Our yard needs to be mowed and laundry needs to be done. There are several shifts throughout the day to accommodate your schedule.

Office Work

There is work that could be done from your own home. Thank you cards need to be
written. Data bases kept current and with training you can enter adoptions in our online Adoption Program.

Feeding & Socializing

Our cats and kittens need to be fed wet food twice daily.  You will be trained in which cats need which food.  We also need people to play with, pet and groom our cats and kittens so that they are ready for adoption earlier.  Cats and kittens need a lot of interaction with humans not only to make them feel at ease when potential adopters visit but also to ensure that the felines get the exercise they need and their natural cat instincts are nurtured.
We also need people to provide basic medicines to our cats in need such as eye infection medication.

Marketing

We always need people to get the word out about our shelter in order to encourage
adoptions and donations.  Some examples of volunteer opportunities include (but are not limited to) handing out flyers, contacting potential business partners, creating promotional materials and writing informative articles for our blog.

Handypeople

If you have skills in repairing or building things or painting or laying tile or any other type of work that would improve our shelter, we can use your talents.  There always a need to patch paint or hang shelves or caulk windows.  Our building can always use the touch of someone who is good with tools.

If you have other talents that you wish to share, please give us a call!!!

I could walk around the yard barefoot in safety.

My house could be carpeted instead of tiled and laminated.

All flat surfaces, clothing, furniture, and cars would be free of hair.
When the doorbell rings, it wouldn’t sound like a kennel. When the doorbell rings, I could get to the door without wading through fuzzy bodies who beat me there

I could sit on the couch and my bed the way I wanted, without taking into consideration how much space several fur bodies would need to get comfortable.
I would have money, and no guilt to go on a real vacation. I would not be on a first-name basis with 6 veterinarians, as I put their yet unborn grandkids through college.

The most used words in my vocabulary would not be:  out, sit, down, come, no, stay, and leave it ALONE.  My house would not be cordoned off into zones with baby gates or barriers.

I would not talk ‘baby talk’..  ’Eat your din din’.   ’Yummy yummy for the tummy’… My house would not look like a day care center, toys everywhere.

My pockets would not contain things like poop bags, treats and an extra leash.

I would not look strangely at people who think having ONE dog/cat ties them down too much.

I’d look forward to spring and the rainy season instead of dreading ‘mud’ season.

I would not have to answer the question  ’Why do you have so many animals?’ from people who will never have the joy in their lives of knowing  they are loved unconditionally by someone as close to an ANGEL as they will ever get.

How EMPTY my life would be!!!

Identification

An outdoor cat should always wear a collar and ID tag. There are many colors and styles available but be sure it is a breakaway cat collar. Breakaway cat collars are designed to ‘break apart’ if the cat gets hung up on a fence or tree so he doesn’t hang himself and choke to death. Some collars are designed so that you can put your phone number and other information right on the collar so you don’t need a tag.

If you do need a tag, there are many tag makers such as idtag.com that have an identification code on the tag with a website address.  If your cat is found by someone, then they would just log on to the website and obtain your contact information.  If your cat is lost, then you would go online and send out an alert which will automatically emit your cat’s picture and information to shelters and vets in your area.

It is also beneficial to have an outdoor cat micro-chipped as well in case the collar comes off. The chip can be read by a special hand-help scanner identifying you as the owner of the cat. Not all shelters and veterinary offices have them though so be sure to check locally to see which ones do.

If you don’t want to keep your cats confined to the indoors, but don’t want to let them roam free, make them an outdoor enclosure! The enclosure will provide your multiple cat household with more room for them to play in the fresh air and sunshine, while keeping them safer than if they freely roam the neighborhood.

Protection

Just like humans, outdoor cats are at risk for bug bites and stings, gophers, lizards, and depending where you live, snakes! – just to name a few. Pesticides and other lawn care products are risky too!

But, just to be on the safe side, make sure all of your cats are vaccinated, including rabies, and treated for fleas and ticks  before being allowed outdoors.

Another safety precaution applies to light colored cats. Some cats, especially those with very pink noses and light eye color, are susceptible to sunburn which can lead to skin cancer. Sensitive areas include the nose, ears, and any areas with minimal hair.

Some cats, like children, don’t know when to come in out of the sun. So, for the ones with cute little pink noses, apply pet-safe sunscreen!  Cats with dark colored noses have enough pigment to protect them from sunburn so they don’t need the sunscreen. One brand you can use is UVet Sunscreen lotion SPF40 which is specially designed for pets and safe to  use on cats.

Many of the sunscreen products for pets are only safe for horses and dogs so be sure to read the labels before you buy one for your outdoor cat.

The UVet Sunscreen also comes in a spray form but, as cats are often afraid of sprays (they sound like a hiss) and it is hard not to get the spray in their eyes.  Try a dab of the cream on the nose for easiest application.

Don’t use sunscreen made for people, even the ones made for babies. These are not supposed to be ingested and, since cats lick, they can become sick from ingesting these types of products.

Neighbourhood dangers

There are various hazards to look out for in your own neighbourhood.

Proximity to Roads: Cars are one of the biggest threats to cats. While all outdoor cats are at risk, those that have recently moved to new areas are at particularly high risk of accident. Check how far your home is to a busy road or intersection to determine how safe it is for your cats.

Neighbour Dogs: The presence of dogs, even those kept in their own yards, can represent a danger to your cats.  Find out where the dogs are and what their prowling habits are. If the dogs are mostly indoor dogs that are taken out for walks on regular occasion, then your
cat should be okay. Backyard or free-roaming dogs are a danger.

Other free-roaming cats: While your cat may enjoy making new friends, free-roaming cats can carry all sorts of diseases, carry fleas and are susceptible to lungworm and other parasites.  This may require you to screen your cat more carefully for fleas and mites upon his returning home. Additional risks involve fights & pregnancy. Lastly, make sure that all of their shots are up to date!

Spay/Neuter: A female cat in heat can become impregnated quickly. Be sure that your cats are fixed prior to their wandering outdoors. Note also, that un-neutered male cats tend to be more aggressive and are more likely to get involved in fights than their neutered peers.

Claws: If you cat has been declawed, then your cat should not go outside ever.  Claws help cats protect themselves from attacks and enable them to better climb trees for safety. A declawed cat is a vulnerable cat. Do not let him outside.

Winter

If you live in a cold climate, you should adopt and promote a habit that will save many cats from a gruesome end.  Slap your car.  That’s right. Pound on the hood a couple of times and listen for movement. If you hear a cat, remove her before you start your engine — a quick trick that will spare you from the horror and grief of finding a mutilated cat in your engine.  Many cats — stray and otherwise — frequently seek the warmth of a car engine.

During the winter, cats sometimes sleep in the garage where it is warm and comfortable. You should be aware that the antifreeze is of particular concern, as it can be deadly for cats that lick it from garage floors.

Also check under your car before you pull away. Many cats will hide under your car if it is parked outside to keep away  from precipitation and wind or potential predators.

Remember to check the top of tall vehicles also.  Sometimes cats will jump on top of the luggage rack to evade pursuing dogs or foxes.  You don’t want to go on a long drive with a
terrified cat on your roof.  He may fall off into oncoming traffic or end up in an unfamiliar location scared and frozen.

If you have a nearby cat colony or stray cats that you cannot take in, look into providing them a form of shelter to get them through the cold winter.  You can easily build insulated,
with pink insulation, wooden houses to be put in a larger potting shed or greenhouse. Keep them up off the floor and have just a small entrance cut in so there is less exposure to the cold.   Put old blankets in and over the houses for warmth.  Even better, use straw inside so that they can burrow into it as blankets tend to get wet and stay wet. You can also use old doghouses.

You can also use special pads over the straw that when a cat lays on it, it reflects the heat back onto the cat.  Solar pool covers can be used for insulation. Be sure to put the bubble side toward the inside. There are sites describing how to do this.

Other simple shelters can be made from polystyrene (Styrofoam) boxes, used by supermarkets, fish stores, butchers, sushi restaurants, and hospitals. Check with those businesses in your area, or you might find them on the street in very good shape. All you need is a sharp utility knife to cut a 5″ to 6″ hole off-center, paint it, weigh down the box with a brick, and stuff it with straw.

Ice melting crystals or salts are dangerous too.  Used to rid sidewalks and driveways from ice and snow, these products contain sodium products, which can irritate tender pads and cause even more problems if ingested.

Preventing liquids from freezing can be a challenge during the winter. Avoid dehydration of outdoor cats by keeping their water drinkable:

• Use bowls that are deep rather than wide, and place them in a sunny spot.
• Refill the bowls with hot or warm water.
• Add a pinch of sugar to the water; this keeps it from freezing as quickly and provides an energy boost for the cats!
• Purchase heated electric bowls found in many pet shops.
• Keep the cats on a regular feeding schedule. The cats will come to expect it, and the food and water will spend less time in the cold before being consumed.
• Check food and water often to make certain they are fresh and unfrozen. Don’t use metal bowls outside during the winter. Your cat’s tongue may accidentally stick to the bowl. Sometimes the cat owners don’t realize that a water bowl has frozen and their cats can’t get anything to drink. The cats that don’t have access to clean, unfrozen water are more likely to drink out of puddles or gutters, which can be polluted with oil, antifreeze, household cleaners, and other chemicals.

To help your cat or free-roaming cats adapt to the cold weather, follow these steps to prepare her:

The cold weather can be harsh on cats, so that you should fortify their coat. Supplement their diet with essential fatty acids that will cause the coat to grow in a bit thicker for the
cold months. Vegetable oils such as canola oil, safflower oil, soybean oil, butter and fish oils are high in these fatty acids. They can be added to the food. Cats tend to have a preference for the fish oils!

Increase your cat’s supply of food, particularly protein, to keep her fur thick and healthy through the winter months. So long as your cat does not have a weight problem, give her extra food and treats during the winter months to help her keep warm.

Give your cat vitamins E and B-complex that will strengthen the tissues and make cats more resistant to cold. But you should be careful, because providing additional vitamins can actually cause imbalances in her diet and medical problems.

Be particularly gentle with elderly and arthritic cats during the winter. The cold can leave their joints extremely stiff and tender and they may become more awkward than usual. Stay directly below these cats when they are climbing stairs or jumping onto furniture. Consider modifying their environment to make it easier for them to get around. Make sure they have a thick, soft bed in a warm room for the chilly nights.

Keep your cat’s coat well groomed. Matted fur won’t properly protect your cat from the cold.

Take your cat outside, preferably on a harness and leash, as the weather starts getting colder so she can adapt. She needs to physically adjust to the temperature change, grow a thicker coat and build up a resistance to the weather.

Cats that spend a lot of time outdoors need more food in the winter because keeping warm depletes energy. So the cat owners may also have to change the eating habits of their pets during the winter.  Ensure that your local cat colonies have ample food to help them survive.

Summer

Aside from the sunburn and bug bite protection mentioned above, there are a few more precautions to take to protect your cat during the sweltering summer months.

Cats don’t perspire. They release excess body heat by panting and through the pads of their feet, so they have a harder time cooling down. Be sure to limit their time outdoors when the temperatures start to climb, and NEVER leave your pet unattended in a parked car, even for a ‘quick 15 minutes’. 15 minutes is all it takes for your pet to suffer the ill effects of heat stroke, including brain damage and possible death.

Always have cool fresh water available for your pet, in all areas that they have access to.

Limit their outdoor activity to early morning or early evening hours, when it is cooler. Warning signs for possible heat stroke include: uncontrollable panting, a rapid heartbeat, excessive drooling and lethargy. If your pet is displaying these signs, immediately bring
them into an air-conditioned room, give them a bowl of cool water, apply cool wet towels to their belly and the insides of their front and back legs.  Immediately call your vet for further instructions.

If your house has no air conditioning or natural ventilation from open windows, set up a motorized fan to provide a cool breeze on sweltering days.  If your windows have an eastern view, close those window blinds until afternoon to keep out the sun’s rays which raise the temperature in your home.  It is important that they have some relief from stifling heat especially if you are not home all day.

Greenhouses can also be a danger for sun-seeking cats. A cat may sunbathe inside a greenhouse as the temperature rises to dangerous levels, and may become trapped inside if the door shuts closed. Glass and metalwork can also get very hot, as your cat may discover to its detriment if it basks on top of a cold frame. Flimsy glass may even break
under the weight of a basking cat.

If your cat has access to a balcony during the summer make sure that there is a permanent area of shade – a large empty cardboard box turned on its side makes a simple shelter. Do not shut your cat out on the balcony where it cannot escape if the sun becomes too much for it.

During the summer when sheds and garages are often left open, it’s easy for cats to get in and contaminate their paws with garden chemicals. They are also in danger from some chemicals which are sprayed onto plants, lawn treatments and pesticides such as slug pellets.  The symptoms of poisoning depend on the substance involved. Rodent poisons for
example can cause internal bleeding. Many poisons cause vomiting and diarrhea or affect the central nervous system causing convulsions and even unconsciousness.   If you think your cat may have been poisoned get your cat to the vet as quickly as possible.

If you are near a cat colony, you may also wish to provide them shelter from the sun if there are no winter shelters in place (i.e. if you live in Arizona).  Simple shelters similar to the winter ones discussed above can be built to protect the cats from the elements.

As you can see, an outdoor cat that roams the neighbourhood needs protection too throughout the year.  Do you have any tips that you can share?  Please place them in the comments section for everyone to learn from.

When looking for a vet, ask your shelter or people who have the same approach to pet care as you. Start with a recommendation from a friend, neighbour, animal shelter worker, dog trainer, groomer, boarding kennel employee or pet sitter.

Look in the Yellow Pages or online under “Veterinarians” and “Animal Hospitals,” where you can likely find important information about hours, services and staff. Check for memberships in the American Animal Hospital Association. AAHA membership means that a veterinary hospital has voluntarily pursued and met AAHA’s standards in the areas of facility, equipment and quality care.   

Research the vet and/or the clinic on the internet. You can Google the name to see if any complaints or commendations come up. There are also sites where clients can rate and comment on the service of the vet.

If you’re looking for a specialist, ask about board certification. This means the vet has studied an additional two to four years in the specialty area and passed a rigorous exam.

Once you’ve narrowed your search, schedule a visit to meet the staff, tour the facility and learn about the hospital’s philosophy and policies. This is a reasonable request that any veterinarian should be glad to oblige. Write down your questions ahead of time.

What to look for:

• Is the facility clean, comfortable and well-organized?
• Are appointments required?
• How many veterinarians are in the practice?
• Are there technicians or other professional staff members?
• Are dog and cat cages in separate areas?
• Is the staff caring, calm, competent and courteous, and do they communicate effectively? Not only do you want to be treated as a valued client but you don’t want a disgruntled staff member handling your pet.
• Do the veterinarians have special interests such as geriatrics or behavior?
• Are X-rays, ultrasound, bloodwork, EKG, endoscopy and other diagnostics done in-house or referred to a specialist?
• Which emergency services are available? If the clinic is not 24/7 for emergencies, find out where an emergency clinic is in your area and keep the information handy. Don’t wait until an emergency occurs because you will be in too much of a panic to be effective.
• Is location and parking convenient?
• Do fees fit your budget, and are discounts for senior citizens or multi-pet households available?
• Does it have high quality food available?
• Does the vet support shelters?  While this may not affect you directly, a good vet will dedicate a portion of his/her practice to helping local shelters and therefore helping the community.

Be a good client

Having good client manners encourages a happy relationship with your vet.

1. See your vet regularly for preventive visits, not just when your pet becomes ill. 
2. Learn what’s normal for your pet, so you can recognize the first signs of illness. If a pet’s not well, don’t wait until she’s really sick before you call your vet. It’s frustrating for a vet, and heartbreaking to owners, to see an animal die of an illness that could have been treated successfully if professional attention had begun sooner.
3. Schedule appointments and be on time.  Lateness is rude and wreaks havoc with the office’s timing. 
4. For your pet’s safety as well as that of other clients and pets, bring your cat to the veterinary office in a carrier.
5. Don’t disturb your veterinarian during non-working hours for matters that can wait, and don’t expect your veterinarian to diagnose a pet’s problem over the telephone
6. Even if you have an emergency, call ahead to ensure that the veterinarian’s available.  She will have to work your cat into the regular schedule, so be prepared to wait. If your cat can’t be seen that day, you will be referred to an emergency vet hospital.

If you are unhappy with your vet, whether it is the billing, wait times or adequate attention to your cat, try speaking to your vet about your concerns first.  There may be a misunderstanding that can be rectified.  If you do not feel confident in the vet’s capability or treatment of her clients, then make sure you have all the health records for your pet before you change vets.  Don’t be afraid that you will be offending your vet if you choose to seek out other medical care. 

Your cat’s health is the number one priority.

Garage Sale

One of our dedicated volunteers, Marie Galati, organized and conducted our most successful garage sale ever! Through great determination, fabulous organization skills and persistent networking skills, Marie raised over $1,200 in one rainy day.  Plus there were still enough great items left over to have another garage sale later in the summer.  Marie was an outstanding motivator in getting other volunteers to donate items for the sale as well as getting the word out to friends, family and neighbours.   She also incorporated other clever ideas such as selling fresh food such as cookies, cupcakes and samosas – all baked by volunteers.

The best garage sales are ones with a lot of kid’s toys and clothes, purses and pictures frames among other useful items.  If your sale is in Spring, you can even sell plants for the garden.  Make sure that you make noticeable signs and use things such as balloons or flags to attract people to your house.  And don’t forget to advertise your event in all of the free media such as Kijiji and SNAP.

This is one of the simplest fundraising events as it has the potential to raise a fair amount of cash with minimal cost. Plus it gives you a reason to get your spring cleaning done.

Calendars

If your child is in kindergarten or an early grade, you can have him/her and his/her classmates create drawings for a calendar.  If you can get 13 drawings – one for the
cover and each other to represent the month it will appear – then you have a simple calendar that you can create on your computer.  (Make sure the child’s name is on the drawing so the parents will be inspired to buy more for relatives.) Add special dates
on the calendar such as PD days or March Break.  This does not have to be high quality so don’t put a lot of money into it.  Then you can not only sell it to the parents but you can also have the kids sell it to other classes (with permission of the Principal) while reminding everyone that it is a fundraiser.  This is an inexpensive way to raise money while not investing a lot on your own (just the photocopying – and if you know someone who works in a large corporation, they can probably get that done for you for free).

Pet Photos

If you know someone with a good quality digital camera and digital printer, you can offer to do pet photos for a particular event.  If you are having a Christmas party or other themed event, create an area where you can take a dog’s photo with Santa or the Easter Bunny or by the fireplace.  Or try to get a beach backdrop.  Print it out and put it in a cute (but inexpensive) frame.  Pet owners love to have pictures of their pets done especially if the money goes to an animal charity.

This activity will require a little more money upfront but can be extremely successful.  PetSmart does this event every Christmas and donates the proceeds to various animal
shelters.

Crafts

If you enjoy knitting, ceramics, woodworking or any other craft, you can sell them either at a craft sale or online (Ebay, Kijiji).  If you don’t want to sell them yourself, approach the animal charity and ask if they would be interested in selling them at an upcoming event that they are participating in.  We have had such donations and we have sold them at our event booth with great success.

In the workplace

If you work in an office and want to raise money, there are various ideas that may work but make sure that you have management’s support because many companies do not allow personal solicitation for charity.   But if they are willing, you can have a silent auction using items such as a coveted parking space, being the boss for a day or name that baby contest where everyone brings in a baby photo of themselves and people enter to guess
who is whom.  In the name that baby contest, a portion of the money goes as a prize while the rest goes to charity.

You can also hold a mini-putt contest throughout the office where you will create golf hazards as people go from hole to hole throughout the office.  Don’t forget to include
going downstairs if your office is on more than one level to spice it up.

You can also hold trivia contests about the company or popular employees using questions that employees would not normally know or that they could not find out easily by Googling.

Food

A traditional fundraiser is having a bake sale. But there are some other ideas that can raise money as well such as creating a cookbook from family recipes.  It does not have to be high-end publishing when people know it is to raise money for charity.  Or, like the
calendar above, have school kids contribute their favourite recipes.  Their parents will be the first purchasers just to see their child’s name in print.

You can have a cakewalk as part of a party or workplace event.  You set up either a large table with cakes lined around it or paper squares on the floor with a type of cake written on it.  Then you play musical chairs but instead of chairs, when the music stops, the players are either in front of a cake on a table or stop on a square.   Cakewalkers pay a fee to play.  You can have friends and family create the baked goods or ask a local bakery to donate some in return for promoting their bakery.

Have a potluck dinner where everyone brings something as well as donate some money to participate.  Or if this is in the workplace, have people who do not bring in food, donate
to eat.

If you are having another event, try using fortune cookies in return for donations.  Many cities have fortune cookie manufacturers who will put in customized messages in the cookie including the name and phone number of the animal shelter. Make sure the fortunes are uplifting or funny.

Girl’s/Guy’s Night

You can raise funds by having your friends over for a girl’s night or a guy’s night.  You may want to have a friendly card game where 50% goes to the winner and the rest to the charity.  Or you can invite a psychic, palm reader or tarot card reader.  Another idea is to have a professional such as a relationship/career coach who can do personality assessments for each participant.

Challenges

Most animal shelters not only receive financial gifts but would also accept other items as donations. For example, many cat rescue groups try to feed and maintain cat colonies but have no room to bring them into existing shelters.  You could ask pet owners or pet store owners to donate food and supplies for the outdoor cats.

You can also hold a contest for people to create innovative outdoor shelters.  You can contact companies like Rona, Home Depot or Lowe’s to donate wood and supplies while you can contact families or carpentry apprentice programs to participate.  The contest would involve the most interesting and functional (yet safe and weather resistant) outdoor shelters whether it is made to look like a house or just a tool shed redecorated.

For established animal shelters, you can ask artists, art students or kids to create murals to decorate the shelter.  For these challenges, try to get the media involved in the judging in order to get promotion for those who participate, donate supplies and winners.

There are so many fundraising events that you can hold that would take minimal effort and cost.  And the animal rescue groups are always in need of help as most exist only on
donations.

Are there any ideas that you want to share?  Please add them to our comments section to
inspire others.

Many people ask us about declawing their cat. Their concern is for their furniture.  However, do you know that declawing is considered so cruel that most of Europe outlaws it?  Declawing has been illegal in England for several years. Australia, New Zealand, Germany, Wales, Finland and Brazil are among the many countries that either consider declawing illegal or inhumane, and only allow it under extreme circumstances. More and more cat related organizations, and veterinarians in the North America are mounting protests against declawing, calling it inhumane and unnecessary. While there are still some vets who will perform this operation, there are no legitimate animal protection groups that support this practice.

Dr. Nicholas Dodman, author of “The Cat Who Cried for Help,” has this to say about declawing:

“The inhumanity of the procedure is clearly demonstrated by the nature of cats’ recovery from anesthesia following the surgery. Unlike routine recoveries, including recovery from neutering surgeries, which are fairly peaceful, declawing surgery results in cats bouncing off the walls of the recovery cage because of excruciating pain. –Declawing fits the dictionary definition of mutilation to a tee. Words such as deform, disfigure, disjoint, and dismember all apply to this surgery.  Partial digital amputation is so horrible that it has been employed for torture of prisoners of war, and in veterinary medicine, the clinical procedure serves as model of severe pain for testing the efficacy of analgesic drugs. Even though analgesic drugs can be used postoperatively, they rarely are, and their effects are incomplete and transient anyway, so sooner or later the pain will emerge.”

Amputation

Declawing is amputation, pure and simple. To remove the claw, whether it is via traditional operation or via laser, you are removing the cat’s toes by the knuckle.  Cats walk on their toes so when you remove that part of their foot, you are causing extensive pain and hardship.  It could be equated to having the ball and heel of your foot cut off and making you walk barefoot.

If your cat is an outdoor cat, you should never declaw your cat. You will be leaving him defenseless against predators.  He will be unable to fight off an attack or climb a tree to escape.  He will be unable to climb out of a hole or ditch if he falls in.

Cat Scratching

Cats scratch for three main reasons:

Exercise – A cat will select a surface where he can hook his claws, then pull against the resistance.  This both strengthens the muscles and provides elasticity to muscles and joints.

Marking Territory – Scent glands located on the cats’ feet mark the area as “his”. You’ll notice this behavior frequently with indoor-outdoor cats that mark trees by scratching.

Stress Management – You may notice a marked increase in scratching behavior when a cat is annoyed or upset.

Consequences of declawing

Aside from the initial pain, other short-term effects of declawing can also lead to long-term
problems, both physiological and behavioral.

Litter Box Avoidance – A declawed cat’s toe stubs will be severely painful for days or weeks after the surgery, and “phantom limb pain” may be a lifelong legacy. Some litter box granules are very painful to the cat’s tender paws, and she may avoid the litter box entirely because of the association with pain. Owners can help by using a softer litter type such as one of the paper-based litters.

Biting and Aggression – A cat’s claws are his primary defense against other cats, dogs, or humans who would harm him. Lacking his claws, he may turn to biting, either in defense, or as a “warning” to humans who can’t read his “body language.” Other cats may choose “flight” instead of “fight,” and become withdrawn and depressed.

Arthritis and Crippling – Cats are “digitigrade,” which means they walk on their toes. Pain in the toes can cause changes to their normal step, which eventually can cause stiffness and pain in their legs, hips, and spine. Anyone who has ever experienced prolonged foot pain will understand exactly what I’m describing.

Alternatives to declawing:

Happily, there are other alternatives, so they need never subject their cats to such pain:

Nail Trimming – Cats cannot do the serious damage to furniture, drapery and rugs, with blunt nails. Trimming is a simple procedure, and if you wait until your cat is sleepy and quiet, and take it one nail at a time, over a period of several days, your cat will soon find
out it’s not to be feared. Simply lightly squeeze the cat’s toe to extend the nail tip, and snip the tip. You can buy inexpensive clippers for this purpose at any pet store. Be careful not to cut into the dark part on the underside of the tip– this will cause bleeding. If you’re hesitant about doing this yourself, ask your veterinarian or groomer to show you how. It’s a lot less expensive than declawing, and a lot easier on the cat and your conscience.

Scratching Posts – Get scratching post(s) or cat trees with them from your local pet store. Sisal-covered posts are highly favored by many cats. Most cats can be easily trained to use the post instead of your furniture.  Many cats enjoy having several surfaces and elevations to scratch, play and rest on.  Fortunately, one of the most popular surfaces is cardboard, and inexpensive cardboard scratching posts are readily available. If one post doesn’t work, get a second one, and experiment with their locations. They love to be perched high and in front of a window.  Offer kitty a variety of surfaces and elevations, and he will soon choose his favorites.

Soft Paws – Soft Paws (www.softpaws.com) were developed by a veterinarian, and are vinyl nail caps which glue right over a cat’s claws. They come in clear or colours (for the trendier cat) and also are easy to  locate if one should come off. The caps grow out with the natural growth of your cat’s nails, and are said to last four to six weeks.

Feliway – Feliway is a “friendly pheromone” which mimics the scent of cats’ facial glands.
It has been found to be useful in combating cats’ urine marking tendencies, as it is thought that cats will not mark with urine where they have previously marked with facial glands. Although Feliway is not marketed for this purpose, some behaviorists believe it may be useful to curb undesirable scratching.

Citrus Scent – If your cat is scratching your couch, try spraying the couch with the diluted juice of a lemon or orange.  Cats hate those scents and will usually stay away.

Water gun – Train your cat when he is scratching the furniture by giving a loud “NO” and squirting him with water.  If you are consistent and timely, he will get the message.  Reinforce good behaviour when he scratches his scratching post or cat tree with a treat until he understands that it is the surface that he is scratching that is unacceptable, not the actual behaviour of scratching.

Cover the surface – Covering the area of undesirable scratching with aluminum foil or
double-sided tape is a great deterrent. These surfaces don’t have a texture that feels good to scratch.

Behaviour Training – It is best to use the above techniques early with your cat either when they are kittens or when you first bring them home from the shelter.  Never use physical punishment as they will not associate it with a wrong act and will not only cause them unnecessary pain but it will break your bond with your cat and she will fear you.  If the situation becomes dire, call a behavioural specialist or your vet as there may be an underlining issue you may not be aware of.

If you love your cat, never declaw.

Do you have any tips of training your cat not to scratch your furniture?  Please share them in the comments section.

Some cats love it. Some cats hate it. Cats spend about 10% of their day grooming themselves through licking their fur and dirt between their toes. But they still need human intervention. Nail cutting and brushing should occur on a regular basis.

Nail cutting

Get a cat scissors from your local pet store. Hold your cat’s paw and press lightly so that the nails protrude. Cut just below the curve of their nail. Any higher and you risk cutting the quick and the cat will bleed which may lead to infection. Cutting the quick will definitely cause pain and fear to your cat. If your cat is resistant to nail cutting, you can do one (or both) of the following:

Emery Cat:  There is a product called “Emery Cat” or similar ones that consist of a scratch box made of emery board.  If your cat takes to it, he will end up manicuring his own nails just by repeated filing on this board.

Behaviour adjustment: Many cats are afraid of getting their nail clipped.  If your cat is skittish, take things slowly.  Follow these steps and take your time with them.

1. Spray the cat scissors with pheromone spray and let your cat smell it. Do this for a few days so the cat is no longer afraid of the scissors themselves.  Or after spraying them, leave the scissors out on a table where your cat frequents.
2. Touch your cat’s paw gently.  If he pulls it away, just make sure it is just a quick gentle touch.  Once you do that, give him/her a treat to reinforce the positivity of the interaction.  Do this on a daily basis until your cat no longer pulls away his paw.
3. Hold or stroke your cat’s paw.  Instead of a quick tap as in #2, try to keep the touching process longer.  Then give your cat a treat and praise.
4. If your cat will let you hold his paw, then hold it and put some light pressure on it so that the nails protrude.  Again, give your kitty a treat and praise.  Don’t try to clip the nail yet. You want this to be a positive process and you shouldn’t rush it.  Too much too soon may make your cat anxious and fearful.
5. If you can do #4, then next step is to try to clip the nails.  If your cat is fidgety, then clip only one nail and give him a treat.  You want to show him that it is okay and he will not be harmed.  Continue this process until you are able to clip all his nails in one session.  But prepared to be patient.

Usually, you only need to clip the nails on the front paws as they only use these to scratch.  On average, you would clip their nails once every two weeks for kittens depending on how fast the nails grow.  Adult cats will probably be less frequently. You should also clip his nails when he is in a mellow mood, maybe after a nap.  Don’t do it after play time because he is already hyper.  But feel free to play with your cat just after clipping his nails to reinforce that this positivity of the action.

Brushing:

Many cats loved to have their coat brushed.  But some are squeamish especially if they have tangled or matted hair.  Regular hair brushing is crucial to a healthy coat.  It also keeps your carpets and couches a lot cleaner for you.  Use a special cat comb or a product like the “Furminator” that are specially made for effective cat hair grooming.

If your cat runs away when you bring out the brush or comb, follow these steps over time to train her to be receptive to brushing:

1.  Spray the brush/comb with pheromone spray and leave it out in the open for the cat to smell.
2. Once your cat has stopped running way from the brush, try to brush one stroke on your cat’s back.  Do not try to sneak up on your cat or else she will panic.  After you have successfully stroked your cat with the brush, give her a treat.
3. Once your cat is okay with #2, try to gently brush your cat’s back and tail with the brush/comb.  Only do what your cat will allow. Do not force her.  Don’t try to do her belly yet until she is completely calm while being brushed. Then give her praise and a treat. 

Soon, you will be brushing your cat’s back, tail and belly on a daily basis.  If you brush her the same time each day, she will eventually come to you to be brushed.  It is all about positive behavioural training.

1. Pick up cat and cradle it in the crook of your left arm as if holding a baby.
Position right forefinger and thumb on either side of cat’s mouth and gently apply pressure to cheeks while holding pill in right hand.

As cat opens mouth, pop pill into mouth.

Allow cat to close mouth and swallow.

2. Retrieve pill from floor and cat from behind sofa.
Cradle cat in left arm and repeat process.

3. Retrieve cat from bedroom.

Throw soggy pill away.

4. Take new pill from foil wrap,

Cradle cat in left arm, holding rear paws tightly with left hand.

Force jaws open and push pill to back of mouth with right forefinger.

Hold mouth shut for a count of ten.

5. Retrieve pill from goldfish bowl and cat from top of wardrobe.

Call spouse in from the garden.

6. Kneel on floor with cat wedged firmly between knees, hold front and rear paws.
Ignore low growls emitted by cat.
Get spouse to hold head firmly with one hand while forcing wooden ruler into mouth.
Drop pill down ruler and rub cat’s throat vigorously. 

7. Retrieve cat from curtain rail.

8. Get another pill from foil wrap.
Make note to buy new ruler and repair curtains.
Carefully sweep shattered figurines and vases from hearth and set to one side for gluing later.

9. Wrap cat in large towel and get spouse to lie on cat with head just visible from below armpit.
Put pill in end of drinking straw.
Force mouth open with pencil and blow down drinking straw.

10. Check label to make sure pill not harmful to humans and drink one beer to take taste away.
Apply band-aid to spouse’s forearm and remove blood from carpet with cold water and soap.

11. Retrieve cat from neighbor’s shed.
Get another pill.
Open another beer.
Place cat in cupboard, and close door onto neck, to leave head showing.
Force mouth open with dessert spoon.
Flick pill down throat with elastic band.

12. Fetch screwdriver from garage and put cupboard door back on hinges.
Drink beer. 
Fetch bottle of scotch.
Pour shot, drink.
Apply cold compress to cheek and check records for date of last tetanus shot.
Apply whiskey compress to cheek to disinfect.
Toss back another shot.
Throw tee-shirt away and fetch new one from bedroom.

13. Call fire department to retrieve the damn cat from the top of the tree across the road.
Apologize to neighbor who crashed into fence while swerving to avoid cat.
Take last pill from foil wrap.

14. Using heavy-duty pruning gloves from shed, tie the little *&#%^’s front paws to rear paws with garden twine and bind tightly to leg of dining table.
Push pill into mouth followed by large piece of fillet steak.
Be rough about it.
Hold head vertically and pour two pints of water down throat to wash pill down.

15. Consume remainder of scotch.
Get spouse to drive you to the emergency room.
Sit quietly while doctor stitches fingers and forearm and removes pill remnants from right eye.
Call furniture shop on way home to order new table.

Arrange for your neighbour to adopt mutant cat from hell and call local pet shop to see if they have any hamsters. 

How To Give A Dog A Pill

1. Wrap it in bacon and toss it in  the air.

What do you do when you cat is acting naughty?  How do you discipline him?  Well, firstly, never hit your cat. This will make him fearful of you which break the bonds of your relationship.  As well, he will become aggressive if hit often enough. Never mind the physical and emotional damage that you will be doing to the cat.  

When your feline is misbehaving, it is a matter of changing that behaviour by letting your cat know consistently and immediately so that he can associate the consequences with the action.  If your cat knocked over a lamp fifteen minutes ago, your window of opportunity of changing his behaviour is gone.  He needs to be able to associate the discipline with the action that brought it on.

Here are some techniques that are effective in changing your cat’s behaviour.

Getting into trouble:  When your cat is misbehaving, whether knocking over a vase, eating from the sink, or getting into any other place where he should not be, squirt him in the butt with a water gun.  Don’t shoot him in the eyes or anywhere else where it could do damage.  Just the squirting will give him a strong message.  If you are consistent, he will stay away from the restricted area or at least hightail it as soon as he sees the water gun.  Keep a water gun in every key room for easy and quick access.

Scratching:  Keep plenty of scratching boxes in the house encouraging horizontal scratching instead of vertical scratching of posts and trees. Recommendation:  a turbo-scratcher or other flat corrugated cardboard surface available in Pet stores discourages the need to stand and scratch on assorted surfaces not acceptable to their owners.  If you don’t provide enough outlets for this, then your cat may start scratching your furniture.  If he does start scratching your furniture, there are anti-scratch products available at your pet store including one that sprays them as they approach the couch in question.  Also, use a water gun or a loud clap and a strong “NO” when you catch them doing it.  Being consistent will lead to easy training of your cat in a short period of time.  Do not declaw your cat.  It is a form of amputation and is illegal in most countries outside of North America with pet protection laws.  It is considered inhumane as you are effectively amputating your cat’s toes and cats need to walk on their toes.  Please take the time to train your cat.  Both you and your cat will be happy that you did.

Getting your cat off the kitchen counter:  All cats like to jump on the counter or any high surface.  If you don’t want him on your kitchen counter, then stack a bunch of empty can in a pyramid on the counter where he jumps up.  Put a couple of coins in some of the cans.  When your cat jumps on the counter, he will knock over the cans and freak out from the loud crash.  After repeating this technique a few times, your kitty will get the message that the counter is not a peaceful place to be.

Spraying:  Spraying is when your cat marks areas on the house with urine. Usually neutering your cat resolves the problem but there are times when neutered cats still spray.  Here are some tips to resolve the issue:

• Firstly, check the litter box for evidence of use. If your cat is still using the litter box, then the problem is not the litter. 
• Make sure that you do not have a lot of clutter (i.e newspapers, dirty clothes, etc.) lying on the floor.  Sometimes cats can mistake that with a safe place to do their “business”. 
• Once a cat has sprayed, you must clean the area quickly and thoroughly with special cleansers made for pet stains and smells.  Otherwise, while you may not be able to smell urine on that spot, your cat’s super sensitive sense of smell will and reinforce the bad behaviour.
• Use an anti-marking spray in the area. If the spraying continues, then it may be anxiety-related. 
• Try using a pheromone spray or diffuser in the area of the marking to calm your cat’s stress. 
• Try playing with your cat in the area of the spray so that he feels that this area is a fun place, not a stressful one. 
• If these don’t work, check with your vet.  
• Do not punish the cat for this behaviour.  This will only induce further stress.

Some excellent books to learn more are:

• “Twisted Whiskers” – Pam Johnson
• “Psycho Kitty” – Pam Johnson-Bennett
• “The Cat Who Cried for Help” – Dr. Nicholas Dodman