Whiteflies-Pest Diagnostic Clinic (left), Whiteflies-Clemson University (right)

Description:
There are several different species including greenhouse whiteflies, silverleaf whiteflies and sweetpotato whiteflies. They occur worldwide and move onto other crops and plants when their food source runs low. They go from egg to larvae to adult very rapidly.

Whitefly Life Cycle-Dept. of Entomology NCSU (left), Whitfly Eggs-Oregan State University

Whitefly damage-College of Agricultural and Human Resources (left), Whitefly damage-Top Turf Insect Damage (right)

Diet and Damage
Host plants include strawberries, house plants, greenhouse plants, vegetables and some ornamentals. Whiteflies are sucking insects and excrete honeydew which can cause a secondary problem…..sooty mold. They cause plants to become weak and plants die from lack of photosynthesis once sooty mold sets in. They are very difficult to control and over the years have developed immunity from some inorganic pesticides.

Biological Controls

1. Plant Guardian^TM Houseplant Insecticidal Soap – use on the underside of leaves as this is where you’ll find them.
2. Pyola^® Insect Spray
   – a plant based organic pesticide that comes in a liquid or powder. The liquid type needs to be diluted with water and then sprayed directly on the affected plants. It also kills a wide range of insects, caterpillars and beetles.
3. Pot Stickers – you can buy these or make your own with bright yellow card coated with a sticky substance like tanglefoot.
4. Rubbing Alcohol – dilute alcohol in water and wipe the undersides of the leaves.
5. Beneficial Insects - ladybugs, lacewings, pirate bugs, spiders and tiny parasitic wasps.
6. Your Trusty Vaccuum Cleaner – they can be sucked off your houseplants with it.

Mockingbird & Babies (May 2006)

The Nest

The Babies

Eyes Open

Baby Robin (L), Baby Bluejay (R)

Adult Silverfish (L)-Do-it-yourself Pest Control, Adult Silverfish (R)-Integrated Pest Management of Alaska

Description
They are very quick when surprised, such as turning on a light or a sudden movement.

Habitat and Lifecycle
Silverfish are found worldwide, live in homes, vacant buildings, hospitals, attics, bathrooms and other places that are dark, warm and damp. During the day they are generally hiding in cracks, crevices, baseboards and behind furniture. As long as there is food they will continue to thrive. Unlike most insects having 4 lifestages, these guys only have 3. Males leave their sperm on fine silk threads and females then pick it up fertilizes her eggs. The females lay their eggs 1-4 per day and hatching occurs after 2-3 weeks. Egg to adult is approximately 4 months. They shed thier skins several times per year and can live up to 3 years. In their lifetime they can lay several hundred eggs.

Silverfish damage (L)-Home & Garden Information Center, Silverfish damage (R)-Clemson University

Diet and Damage
Thier main diet is high in protein and carbohydrates. This includes food stuffs, books, paper, wallpaper, attic insulation, cardboard, drywall, cotton clothing and many other household items. Indications of silverfish includes small irregular holes and also tiny yellow stains.

Control
1  Pot Stickers – you can buy these or make your own with bright yellow card coated with a sticky substance like tanglefoot. Sticky traps placed on the floor are very effective.
2 Reducing moisture in the home is the most important since they need dampness to survive. Using dehumidifiers in areas where silverfish are present will help reduce their numbers.
3 Silica Dioxide is a non-toxic dust that can be applied to baseboards and areas where they have been seen. This works by drying them out so they shrivel up and die.
4 Vaccuum regularily to keep the population at bay
5 Keeping moist debris out of the house is also good practice

Oil-Away™ Supreme Insecticidal Spray from Gardens Alive is made from cottonseed oil that’s extracted the old-fashioned way, by squeezing or pressing. No chemical solvents, normally used in the commercial extraction process, are used. Unlike some dormant oil products, this one won’t burn or harm sensitive foliage if used in warmer weather. IMPORTANT: It’s best used in the fall after leaf drop or in the spring before leaves or blossoms and beneficial bugs appear. Ladybugs and other beneficial insects that migrate onto a plant after it’s been sprayed are not affected.

You can also make your own dormant oil spray:

1 gallon of mineral oil
1 pound of oil based soap (granular form)
1/2 gallon of water
Boil all these and mix well. Dilution rate 1 part to 20 parts water. This home-made dormant oil must be used immediately (cooled of course) as these ingredients separate quickly.

Blossom End Rot (left)-University of Kentucky, Blossom End Rot on watermelon-Tom Isakeit

It starts out as a small watery looking spot that turns brown and begins widening as the fruit ripens. The tissues then look dry and leathery. Calcium deficiency can be lessened with the application of lime or gypsum.

Squash vine borer larva (left)-Alabama Farmers Cooperative Inc, Larvae (right)-Kansas State University

Description
The adult is clear-winged moth resembling a wasp. They are orange and black and have black stripes on their bodies.

Moth (left)-Kansas State University, Moth (right)-Ohio State University

Habitat & Lifecycle
These pest are found east of the rocky mountains in the US and Canada. They overwinter in a cocoon in the soil. Adult moths lay their eggs along the stems and the eggs are small and brown or reddish. Moths lay their eggs in early spring. There may be up to two generations per year depending on climate. A very cold winter can kill off many of the cocoons.

Lifecycle (left)-North Carolina State University, Damage from the squash vine borer (right)-Ohio State University

Diet & Damage
They bore into the stems of cucumbers, squash, pumpkins and other gourd type plants. You can see a small entry hole where the larvae go inside the stems to do the most damage. The vines will wilt and eventually die. You can tell if they are present since they leave a small mass of green debris just under the holes. Squash stalk borers are extremely hard to control. It is critical to stop them from entering the vine since once they are in there it is too late.

Control
1) Nema-Ject^TM Nematodes – Nematodes injected into the stems helps control theses worms. This method is convenient with container, greenhouse or house plants.
2) Floating Row Covers – In the spring when the plants are newly planted, use row covers so the moths cannot lay their eggs. If you use a row cover then you must pollinate the flowers by hand.
3) Hand Pick – Try to catch them in egg stage so you can kill them before major damage. If you see the holes, take a sharp knife and slit the stem to remove the worms. Bury the injured section of the plant. This will help the injured section to reroot.
4) Crop Rotation – Rotate your crops from year to year and plant the cucurbits type plants far from where they were planted the previous year.
5) Plant Resistant Varieties – Butternut squash, acorn squash and some zuchinni varieties.

Crane fly adults-Natural Resources of Canada

Description
You’ve seen them fly around at night in swarms in the spring. The larvae are light brown or grey caterpillars that cause major damage. Adults do not feed. Eggs are very tiny and shiny black. Pupae are brown and spiney.

Larvae (right)-Natural Resources of Canada, Larvae (left)-Minnesota Department of Agriculture

Habitat and Lifecycle
They occur in great numbers in coastal wet climates and are found throughout North America and many European countries. There are almost 300 different species. Females lay their eggs in the summer in the soft soil (usually a damp area), eggs hatch within 2 weeks and the larvae feed from early fall throughout the winter and into the spring. They pupate and the adults emerge in the spring and mate immediately. There is usually only one generation per year.

Damage on roots of seedling trees (left)-Natural Resources of Canada, Damage on lawn-Minnesota Department of Agriculture

Diet and Damage
They destroy many seedlings including trees, lawns, pastures, weeds, potatoes, cereals, alfalfa, and many other forage crops. They are a terrible nursery pest. They feed on the roots, tubers and bark of seedlings. Most times damage is servere enough to kill the hosts. These guys are truly evil.

Control
1) Hand Pick – In the fall and in the spring lightly dig around the soil and pick them out. Look for them in marshy or moist areas. Flyswatters work well with the adults.
2) Control Moisture – Larvae like the moisture so good drainage practices is a must.
3) Natural Predators - Birds, parasitic nematodes and most ground beetles.
4) Sticky Traps – you can buy these or make your own with bright yellow card coated with a sticky substance like tanglefoot. They also can catch other pesky flying insects.
5) Maintain your lawn – Keep your grass at a minimum height since they like to hang around and lay eggs in high moist grassy areas. Good drainage is a must and your lawn must be healthy, so try a slow realease high nitrogen organic fertilizer.

Botrytis (left)-University of California, Botrytis on strawberry (right)-Cornell University

It attacks most ornamentals, perennials, annuals, a host of vegetables and fruits. Two other types are specific to tulips (also called tulip fire) and peonies. Avoid overhead watering as this can make the disease spread faster.

How to control Botrytis:
1) Sanitation is the key to the spread of Botrytis. Pick off affected parts and dispose of them. I recommend burning.
2) Organic fungicides specific for Botrytis applied in the early spring is the best prevention.
3) Avoid watering the leaves and be sure to water in the mornings so plants can dry off.
4) Increase air circulation to help plants dry before this disease spreads.

Black spot on roses (left)-Crocus Gardeners by Nature, Black spot (right)-R,C, Lambe

Controls
1) Neem oils have been highly effective.
2) If infestation is not severe, cut off the affected leaves and burn them. In the fall be sure to clean up all rose debris and burn this as well. a severe pruning of roses in the fall will help them off to a good start in the spring.
3) Buy disease resistant roses or plants.
4) 1 tsp of baking soda to one spray bottle can also help clear it up.
5) Avoid watering the leaves as this can increase the problem.
6) Organic fungicides are also effective.

Powdery Mildew-New Zealand Institute of Horticulture, A serious powdery mildew infestation (right)-AgricoCanada

If not treated quickly it can result in the loss or stunted growth of your plants. Roses are most susceptible to this fungus but almost any plant, tree, grass or ornamentals can be affected.

Controls
1) Increase air circulation between plants.
2) When watering only water the leaves if there is time for the plant to dry off.
3) A tablespoon of baking soda in a spray bottle will help kill this fungus.
4) A weak solution of skim milk and water sprayed on the fungus also works. (about 1 part milk to 10 parts water)
5) Sulfer or copper sprays are effective controls for any fungus type disease.
6) Organic fungicides can be purchased in most garden shops and home improvement centers.