ornamental plant

Bonsai Contest - The World Bonsai Contest

2011-07-10T13:47:00.000-04:00

The World Bonsai Contest has been conducted under the supervision of Mr. Saburo Kato, the Nippon Bonsai Association and the Japan Bonsai Growers Association since 1999. This Contest is one of Mr. Kato’s many contributions to the Bonsai community both in Japan and throughout the world, and reflects his sincere dedication to the art of bonsai.

THE PURPOSES OF THE CONTEST ARE:
1. to show the world, especially nonbonsai people, how bonsai culture is enjoyed around the world;
2. to encourage bonsai-related activities on a local basis in many different regions of the world;
3. to implement the spirit of World Bonsai Friendship Federation, which promotes Peace and expands Friendship through Bonsai culture.

check their website www.worldbonsaicontest.com

Training Your Bonsai Tree - HOW TO?

2011-07-07T07:14:00.001-04:00

How To Begin:
If you study very carefully the way trees grow in nature, it is possible to design a realistic looking bonsai without knowing the names of styles, etc. The most important part is always remember that you are working with a living plant.

Look carefully at its natural characteristics and you may discern within them a suitable style, or styles.
Once a certain "shape" begins to reveal itself, you will find that gentle bending of a branch before wiring will increase its flexibility and give you an idea of the correct strength of wire. What you are looking for is a wire that will give you a tension slightly more than the tension of the branch.

Tender-barked trees, such as maples, should be trained with paper-wrapped wire to protect the bark.

When To Wire:

Deciduous trees should be wired after their leaves have matured, in early summer, and the wires removed in autumn to avoid wounding the bark.

Coniferous trees should be wired during the winter months, since they take considerably longer to become fixed in position. All trees should be protected from hot sun and heavy rain for a month after wiring.

Wiring A Bonsai Tree:
Begin wiring from the base of the trunk, anchoring the wire in the soil. You may need two wires to hold the trunk in position. After securing the base of the trunk, proceed to the main, and then the smaller branches, ending with the highest twigs. Wires should be wound at about 45 degrees to the line of the branch.

Gauge the tension carefully, as tight wiring will cut into the bark, and loose wiring will slip.

Dealing With Breaks
Even if you are very careful, you may bend a branch to its breaking point while wiring. If the break is simply a fracture with the broken part still partially attached, you have a chance of saving the branch.

Very gently ease the broken part into place, carefully fitting both ends of thebreak together. Wrap the break with garden tape or raffia and tie it securely, but not too tightly. Within several months, the fractured branch tissue may knit together.

If the break is complete or the ends fail to unite, you have several choices. You can cut the broken branch back to where side branches grow out from it, or you can cut it back to its point of origin.

Care After Wiring:
To help your bonsai recover from the trauma of wiring, keep it out of direct sunlight for several days. It's also a good idea to keep it sheltered from wind for several weeks. Water the plant routinely, giving the foliage a daily sprinkling.

Removing The Wire
To give wired branches a good chance to grow into their new positions, leave wires in place for a full growing season. Then, in early autumn, remove them to avoid any constriction during the next growth phase. If wires are left in plce too long, the bark will show unsightly spiral scars for years. With stiff copper wire, it is best to cut it carefully from branches to avoid inflicting damage by uncoiling.

Aluminum wire can be uncoiled, starting at the outmost end and carefully uncoiling toward the anchor end. If wired branches still need more coaxing to achieve the desired positions, they can be rewired at the appropriate time for another year of training. When you rewire a branch, vary the wire position from that of the previous year.

Training Your Bonsai Tree

2011-07-07T06:51:00.000-04:00

Training Your Bonsai Tree - Often considered the most difficult training technique, wiring is used to bend the trunk and branches of a tree into the shape you would like your bonsai to take. Beginners can learn to judge tension in different sized branches, and the various ways of securing wire, by first practicing on a small branch from an ordinary tree or shrub.

Never rush.

Deciding the shape your tree will take is a lifetime decision, so be sure to examine all angles and possibilities. Copper wire, though expensive, is most suitable for wiring a bonsai-to-be such as the juniper above, because it remains soft. Galvanized iron or plastic coated wire may be used, but they tend to look rather ugly and detract from your tree. Remember, the larger coniferous trees will be wearing their wires for 12 - 18 months, so please take care in choosing the best "look " for your bonsai.

Spider mites - control strategies

2011-07-07T06:18:00.002-04:00

Control Strategies - Early detection of spider mites, before damage is noticed, is important. Timely inspection of susceptible landscape plants — especially during periods favoring mite outbreaks — is the key to preventing serious damage. The tiny spider mites can be detected by taking a piece of white paper or cardboard and striking some plant foliage on it. The mites can be seen walking slowly on the paper. If 10 or more mites per sample are common, controls may be needed. When scouting for spider mites, pay particular attention to plants having a history of mite problems. Spider mites often re-infest the same plants year after year.

Cultural Control – Quarantine and Inspection is important to prevent/control infestations. The twospotted spider mite, for example, is often introduced on infested bedding and house plants. When purchasing new plants, whether for outside plants or inside house plants, carefully inspect the new material for any signs of mite activity.

Examine most thoroughly the lower leaf surfaces and where leaves branch from the stem. New house plants should be quarantined from other plants until you are sure that no mites are present.

A forceful jet of water from a hose can wash mites from plants. Periodical washing can keep spider mites under control on most ornamental plants in the landscape. This technique also helps conserve natural predators. House plants can be relocated outside for treatment of twospotted spider mites and returned as soon as dried.

Biological Control – Predators.

There are numerous insects (lacewings and lady beetles) that prey on spider mites. However, the most common predators are other types of predatory mites. Predatory mites can be purchased and released onto infested plants. Some species are host specific and each predator works better under different weather conditions. If predators are used, help insure a favorable environment for them to prosper, including avoiding application of pesticides that will kill them.

Chemical Control - Most spider mites, if detected early, can be controlled with insecticidal oils and soaps. Horticultural oils can be used on perennial and woody ornamentals during the summer at the 1 to 2 percent rate. Higher rates of horticultural oil (3 to 4 percent) or dormant oil are useful for killing mite eggs and dormant adults in the fall and spring. Spring applications of dormant oils seem to be the most effective on cool season mites. Insecticidal soaps are most useful in warmer weather. Soaps and oils work by contact only and have no residual activity so thorough coverage of the plant is necessary for good control.

Spruce Spider Mite

2011-07-06T18:44:00.000-04:00

Spruce Spider Mite (Oligonychus ununguis) - The spruce spider mite is a common 'cool season' mite. This pest can be found on all types of conifers from spruces and pines to junipers and arborvitae.

This mite spends the winter in the egg stage attached to host plants. The eggs hatch in March to April and the mites can complete development in 3 to 4 weeks. If summer temperatures are constantly over 90 F, this mite becomes dormant and lays resting eggs. These eggs hatch and the adults resume activity in the fall when cooler
temperatures return.

Conifers often react slowly to the feeding of this mite. Yellowing and bronzing of the needles may not become apparent until the heat of the summer, even though the damaging feeding may have occurred the previous fall and spring.

Twospotted Spider Mite

2011-07-06T18:37:00.000-04:00

Twospotted Spider Mite (Tetranychus urticae) - This is the most common and destructive mite on deciduous ornamentals. It has an extremely wide host range and will feed on many varieties of trees and shrubs, and it may attack greenhouse and field crops. It might feed on flowers, weeds, or fruits,. It is the most common mite pest infesting house plants. Immatures and adults are yellowish to greenish with two dark spots on either side of the body. Eggs are spherical and translucent. Delicate strands of webbing are spun by the mites on the undersides of infested leaves and between branches.

Twospotted spider mites overwinter as adult females in the soil or under the bark of host plants. They become active during the spring and may feed and reproduce throughout the summer and into fall, provided conditions remain favorable for plant growth. It is considered a “warm season” mite thriving under hot, dry summer conditions. Damaging populations seldom occur during wet, cool weather. The mites are especially destructive to winged euonym ous (burning bush) in landscapes.

Spider mites - know your enemy

2011-07-06T18:29:00.001-04:00

Spider mites are common pests in the urban landscape. They can inflict serious damage to trees, shrubs and flowers. Both evergreen and deciduous plants may be attacked. Spider mites are not insects but are more closely related to ticks and spiders.

They have four pairs of legs, no antennae and a single, oval body region. Their common name is derived from their ability to produce silk, which most species spin on host plants. Mites are tiny—about the size of the period at the end of this sentence. They can also be very prolific, which is why infestations often go unnoticed until plants exhibit significant damage.

Many species of spider mites can be found in landscapes. The twospotted spider mite, Tetranychus urticae (Koch), and spruce spider mite, Oligonychus ununguis (Jacobi), are the most common pests. Other species with fewer host plants include: European red mite, Panonychus ulmi (Koch), found on apple trees; honeylocust spider mite, Platytetranychus multidigitali (Ewing); southern red mite, Oligonychus ilicis (McGregor), on a variety of plants; boxwood spider mite, Eurytetranychus buxi (Garman); and the
oak mite, Oligonychus bicolor (Banks).

Types of Damage
Spider mites have needle-like mouthparts and feed by piercing the leaves of host plants to suck out the fluids from individual plant cells. This causes the leaves to appear stippled or flecked, with pale dots where the cellular contents have been removed.

Prolonged, heavy infestations cause yellowing or bronzing of the foliage and premature leaf drop similar to drought stress. Severely-infested plants may be stunted or even killed. Most of the mites feed from the undersides of leaves, although the damage is most evident from the upper surface.

Heavily infested plants may be discolored, stunted or even killed. Web producing spider mites may coat the foliage with fine silk which collects dust and looks dirty. They are even known to wander inside when numbers are abundant and walk about on counters and offices furniture. They frequently enter computer equipment and
appliances, apparently for the warmth. Some of these invasions may originate on populations from nearby house plants.

Life Cycles and Habits
Spider mite species seem to be active in either warm or cool weather. The twospotted, European red, honeylocust, and oak spider mites do best in dry, hot summer weather. The spruce and southern red spider mites do best in cool spring and fall weather.

All spider mites go through the same stages of development, which is similar but not exactly the same as in insects. Adult females usually lay eggs on their host plants.

The eggs hatch in days to weeks into the first stage, called a larva. Larvae are round bodied and have only three pairs of legs. The larvae feed for a few days, seek a sheltered spot to rest and then molt into the first nymphal stage. The first nymphal stage has four pairs of legs. The first nymphs feed a few days, rest and then molt into the second nymphal stage. These nymphs feed, rest and molt into the adult stage. Adult males are usually the size of the second ny mph and have pointed abdomens. The females have rounded abdomens and are the largest mites.

Most spider mites spend the winter in the egg stage but the twospotted spider mite overwinters in protected places as resting adult females.

How To Prune Bonsai Trees

2011-07-06T17:05:00.000-04:00

How To Prune Bonsai Trees
Bonsai trees need training throughout their lives in order to:
1. Maintain the small size of a naturally large tree
2. Give the plant an appearance of age and maturity

Pruning Tools:
Pruning instruments should always be sharp and clean because blunt tools will leave a ragged stump, which could easily become a doorway for disease and pests. Heavy pruning cuts should be whittled down to a slight hollow in the trunk or branch in order to encourage the formation of a callous. Large cuts should be painted with protective paint.

When pruning a branch, try to make the cut just above a bud that is pointing in the direction you want the branch to grow. If the cut slopes downwards, then the water will run off and the chances of rot will be considerably lessened.

Spider mites - they do hurt your bonsai

2011-07-06T16:52:00.000-04:00

Spider mites - they do hurt your bonsai - Like any othe plant or tree, Bonsai will be susceptible to pests. If caught early and taken care properly, you can save your treasured tree.

Spider mites
the number one pest enemy of bonsay is spider mites. The best way to get a handle on this problem immediately is to monitor your bonsai on a regular basis. In fact, you should get into the habit of preventing these pest in the first place, although that is often not as easy as it sound. First, you need to use a low toxic level of pesticide, whether chemical or organic, as asoon as you see signs of spider mites.

identification
the most visible of the spider mites are the red variety. You will actually see them crawling around on the leaves as very tiny red specks. Although small, they can be seen. If you were unsure, take a white piece of paper and while holding it under one of the suspect leaves, gentyl tap the leave so a few drop to the paper. This will make them much easier to identify.

You might also notice a small web like material that resembles some type of debris on the underside of the leaves or tiny pearls that are actually eggs. other mites could be translucent with two dark spots on the back. No matter which type of spider mite you have, always check on the underneath portion of the leaves. If the plant are really badly infected, the leaves will be yellow with red mottling.

If you still cannot see the mites make sure your bonsai has them, you can use a magnifying glass. Although spider mites are not considered an aggressive mover, meaning they will generally stay on one leaf or nearby leaves, they can be moved by birds, animal hair, and even clothing. Typically, spieder mites are much worse when the weather is dry and dusty although they can attack in any condition.

You need to learn if your particular bonsai is a type of plant enjoyed by spider mites and then if you find your bonsai has them, isolate the plant so they are away from uninfected plants. Many species are susceptible, particulary Junipers, Boxwood, Apples, and Blackberries.

In most cases, spider mites will be the worst in the springtime, peaking in the latter summer months. Then when the weather begins to cool down, they will multiple but at a much slower pace. The lifecycle of spider mites is anywhere from seven to 10 days, laying eggs throughout. Any treatment should be repeated over the course of one week to ensure the adult and any hatchlings have been killed. When you do spray, make sure the bottom of the leaves is focused on most. However, you do need to treat the entire bonsai. If you have the time, you can grow or buy predator mites, which although very expensive, they do help.

branch & leaves pruning - Bonsai

2011-07-06T16:45:00.002-04:00

Main branch pruning:
Heavy pruning should be carried out in autumn, winter, or early spring, and is the major way of shaping a bonsai tree. The main priorities are to remove any branche that is too low at the front 1 any branch directly opposite another 2 any that creates a so-called cartwheel effect 3 and any that crosses the front or back to the other side of the tree. 4 Hollow out all stumps with a sharp knife 5.

General Pruning:
Throughout the growing season, cut back shoots of maples 1 zelkovas 2 and other broad-leaves to the first or second pair of leaves. Pinch out the tips of juniper shoots 3.With pines, 4 remove the center "candles" and pinch back the others.

Leaf Cutting:
Do this in early summer on deciduous trees that donot flower or fruit. Use sharp scissors to remove half of each leaf 1 on weak branches or trees, but all but the stalk 2 on strong wood. In a few weeks the stalk will drop and new small foliage and shoots will grow.

A Guide To Bonsai Leaves

2011-07-06T15:52:00.000-04:00

Trees & Leaves Suitable For Bonsai Culture - Since the aim of bonsai is to mirror in miniature the whole form of a mature wild tree, care is
needed when choosing varieties for bonsai culture, for the parts of the tree should always
remain reasonably in scale.

A Guide To Bonsai Leaves
Here are the leaves of a number of common plants that you may find in a bonsai nursery.
1. Japanese black pine (Pinus thunbergii)
2. Short needled spruce
3. Yew (Taxus bacata)
4. Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria japonica)
5. Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis)
6. Trident maple (Acer trifidum)
7. Beech (Fagus sp)
8. Birch (Betula sp)
9. Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia)
10. Hornbeam (Carpinus sp)
11. Crab apple (Malus floribunda)
12. Various species of Prunus, including flowering cherries, peaches and apricots
13. Wisteria
14. Rock Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster horizontalis)
15. Small-leaved species of Azalea

Generally speaking, you should look for trees with small needles or leaves. The most popular evergreen trees for bonsai are pines, junipers and spruces.

Among the pines, short -needles varieties are preferable, although the Japanese black pine (Pinus thunbergii) can have its rather long needles reduced in size by removing all new growth every second year. Other popular varieties include Japanese cedar and yew.

Most deciduous trees can have their leaves dramatically reduced in size by not repotting too often and by leaf cutting. Again, varieties with fairly small leaves are generally preferred to begin with, and these include various varieties of maples, elms, hornbeams, beeches, and birches.

When choosing flowering and fruiting trees, bear in mind the size of both the leaves and of flowers and fruits. For instance, and normal apple tree will look very odd when it fruits, but a crabapple will look in scale with its tiny apples about the size of a small cherry. Many shrubs with small flowers and fruits, such as cotoneaster make excellent bonsai.

Pests & Diseases

2011-07-06T15:41:00.000-04:00

Pests & Diseases - As living trees, bonsai are susceptible to insect attacks and disease. Preventive and
corrective measures include:

• Keeping your bonsai in good health, since insects and bacteria tend to attack weak trees
• Giving your tree ample light, fresh air and ventilation
• Keeping the soil free of spent blooms and fallen leaves etc.

You may also use an insecticidal soap spray which is not harmful to humans or animals. This soap derivative, however, may require more than one application to control the insect population. It's also a good idea to use this spray weekly to prevent any attacks.

Trimming & Pruning

2011-07-06T15:24:00.002-04:00

Trimming & Pruning - The main objective of trimming and pruning is to shape the bonsai into the desired form and to reduce growth above ground in order to maintain a balance with root growth.

The process of shaping begins when the tree is very young and is on going as it continues its growth. Trimming is accomplished by us ing a sharp scissors or shears. This traditional tool is called butterfly shears or bonsai shears and is used for removing foliage and light branches. When heavier branches are removed, we call it pruning and the tool to use is the concave cutter, for which there is no substitute. The concave cutter allows you to remove small, medium and even large branches without leaving any visible scars. Some trees such as the Juniper should be trimmed by using the thumb and index finger to remove new growth and to
prevent browning and a "sheared" appearance.

How to Prune Bonsai Tree

Repotting

2011-07-06T15:21:00.001-04:00

Repotting - All potted plants will eventually outgrow their containers. While houseplants need to be
"potted-up", that is, placed in larger and larger containers, the miniaturization of a bonsai trees is maintained by keeping the roots confined to the small container. On average, repotting will be necessary every 3-5 years, but the tree should be removed from its container and its root system inspected once a year. If the roots form a circular ball around the perimeter of the pot, it is time to trim the roots and repot.

When repotting remember to:
• Use only bonsai soil
• Remove air pockets by working the soil down through the roots
• Do not remove more that 20% of the root system
• Repot during the appropriate repotting season
• Water well and keep out of the sun for a week or two

Fertilizing

2011-07-06T15:18:00.000-04:00

Fertilizing - Because bonsai trees are cultivated in limited amounts of soil, adequate feed is very important. As a general rule, a small amount of feed is given in the spring and a larger amount in the fall. Feed for bonsai should contain three principle ingredients; nitrogen, phosphoric acid, and potash. It is also a good idea to use a fertilizer containing "chelated" iron.

Water before fertilizing your tree and then apply at half the strength recommended by the brand's manufacturer. Rotate the use of brands since different manufacturers add different amounts of trace elements and minerals. You could also add Superthrive, which is a vitamin supplement to the fertilizer mix. You may find it simpler and easier to use slow release fertilizer granules (placed over the soil) whose nutrients are released with each watering.

Misting

2011-07-06T15:16:00.000-04:00

Misting - All trees grow in more humid conditions than our homes, offices and dormitories. So what can we do to provide this essential humidity ? Misting the tree is only beneficial for a short time, so what we recommend is to place the tree on a humidity tray and add water to the tray. As the water in the tray evaporates it creates a humid environment around the tree 24 hours a day. When the water in the tray is gone, add more water. It's a good idea to separate the pot from the water in the tray by adding some pebbles to the bottom of the tray. This will prevent any roots from sitting in the water.

Watering Bonsai

2011-07-06T14:54:00.001-04:00

Watering bonsai, Unlike a houseplant, bonsai trees use a "free draining" type of soil because their roots cannot tolerate "wet feet". In addition, they are grown in significantly less soil and, therefore require more watering. Factors such as tree location, temperature, lighting conditions, quantity of soil used, and the changing seasons will determine the frequency of watering. You can get to know when your tree needs to be watered by observing the foliage, testing the soil with your index finger just below the surface, or just by the weight of the pot. (The drier the tree, the lighter it will feel.) To take the guesswork out of watering, an inexpensive moisture meter which works very much like a thermometer comes in handy. Insert it into the soil and the movement of the needle will tell you if it is time to water.

Rainwater is best for watering plants, but tap water that has stood for a few hours is adequate. In summer, trees should be watered in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the midday heat. This will prevent the leaves of the finer bonsai from burning. In winter, water early to permit any excess to drain before the night frost. Plunging the pot into a bowl to soak is ideal for recently potted trees, small collections and for trees that have dried out. Be sure to drain properly, however!

Sunlight

2011-07-06T14:43:00.001-04:00

Sunlight, especially the ultra violet ray, affects the growth of trees. Therefore, except in special cases such as immediately after repotting, extensive trimming, etc, bonsai should be placed in a sunny location. Bright light will also work well but the tree should not be placed more than 12" away from the direct light source. An east, west or southern exposure works best. A northern exposure will require the use of "grow lights" which should remain on up to 16 hours each day and the lamp should not be more than 2 inches from the top of the tree.

Incandescent light is too hot and will not provide the various spectrum of light that is required to maintain your bonsai tree. If you do not have a window or light source that provides an east, west or southern exposure, be sure to select a bonsai tree that does well in lower lighting conditions.

Purchasing A Tree

2011-07-06T14:30:00.001-04:00

Purchasing A Tree - When buying a tree from a store during the summer, be sure to give it at least 2 weeks outside, avoiding heavy rain and high winds before displaying it indoors. If purchasing in winter, however, do not allow it to be exposed to frost for the rest of the season, as it will probably have begun to shoot. This is most important with deciduous trees, and while varieties of junipers are very hardy it is as well not to take any chances.

Most bonsai are hardy trees and shrubs whose natural habitat is out in the open. They are not permanent houseplants; and even semi-tropical trees should be placed outside when weather permits. During the summer the plant must be able to carry out the process of photosynthesis, and during winter it is resting and building up its strength for the coming spring. Too long in a warm room will persuade it that spring has arrived early and it will start budding. If this happens more than once, the tree will simply die of exhaustion.

Acquiring & Caring For Bonsai

2011-07-06T14:25:00.002-04:00

Acquiring & Caring For Bonsai - Most bonsai trees sold at garden centers and nurseries are of excellent quality, but there are a few points to bear in mind when buying a new plant.

• Age and shape of the tree

• General health

• Soil should be damp but not soggy, unless it has just been watered

• Leaves should look bright and healthy, not burnt around the edges or spotty

• If buying a deciduous tree in winter, last year's growth should be smooth and plump, with no sign of bark wrinkling

• The tree should be steady in its container, which should have at least one drainage hole

• A white fungus in and around the drainage hole is natural and harmless

General Care

looking the best bonsai tree

2011-05-16T03:15:00.001-04:00

looking the best bonsai tree - Are you tired of shopping around your local nurseries or gardening centers, never finding the bonsai tree you want or like? Well, you might consider the internet, which many refer to as the “bonsai tree store”. Today, thousands of professional bonsai growers can be found online. Because of this, you have literally thousands and thousands of choices and when working with a reliable company, can feel 100% confident that your tree will arrive healthy and strong. As you know, bonsai trees are trees that are grown to be miniature. This practice originated in China although it made its way to Japan, on to France, and now every country around the globe.

If you are interested in getting started with growing bonsai, then the “bonsai tree store” is definitely the place to shop. In addition to the trees, you will find literally everything you need from fertilizer, special soil, ceramic pots, river rocks, humidity trays, and more. However, the best part of shopping the bonsai tree store is that you get such an amazing variety. Best of all, you do not have to be a pro to grow bonsai. In fact, there are many beginners just like you, eager to learn this amazing art form.

The key to shopping the “bonsai tree store” is to work with a company you trust. You can check their record with the Better Business Bureau or call their customer service line and talk to someone to find out just how much they know about bonsai and the policies they offer to customers. Obviously, you want to work with someone that is committed to each customer, a company that will see only the highest quality bonsai trees. After all, this inherent beauty of nature is something to honor and cherish. With such diversity in plant type and style, the bonsai can enhance any home.

Therefore, any bonsai tree store you work with should provide you with quality trees and products. However, even more importantly is that you want to work with a company that will provide you with all the information needed to be successful at growing bonsai. That means sending you a complete instruction booklet along with your plant that tells you about the plant’s origin, how to water it, how to feed it, how to trim it, how to style it, and possible diseases that particular tree may be prone to developing. This type of information is what sets one bonsai tree store apart from another. In other words, you want someone that takes the art of growing and training bonsai serious.

Finally, regardless of the bonsai tree store you work with, they should back the tree and product sold. In other words, if you were to buy a Chinese Elm or a Japanese Red Maple, but when your new tree arrives, you find it crushed, bent, or damaged in anyway, the company should stand behind that tree, offering you money back or a replacement tree. Today, because the business of growing bonsai is so huge, you will even find many reputable bonsai tree stores offering instruction videos. The bottom line is that bonsai is a timeless practice that has been passed down for thousands of years. Therefore, when growing bonsai, you want to remember its origin and take great care in creating an amazing bonsai!

source:bonsaigardener.org/

Seed bonsai

2011-05-16T02:56:00.001-04:00

Seed bonsai - Bonsai is the art of cultivating miniature trees by growing them in containers and carefully pruning their roots and branches, thus controlling their growth (for these trees do not stay so small in nature), and training the trunks and crowns to grow into desired shapes.

When most people think of miniature trees they think of Japanese bonsai, however this art form actually originated in China, where it is called penjing. From China it passed to Japan, and to Korea, where it is known as bunjae. There are philosophical as well as aesthetic differences between the three forms.

Calling the tree a "bonsai tree" is a misnomer, because there are over 250 trees species used to grow bonsai, such as the Japanese maple, the Amur maple, the Chinese elm, the Japanese black, red and white pines.

Bonsai cultivators acquire these trees in different ways - either by using methods such as cuttings, air layering, and grafting which utilize already existing trees, or by purchasing seeds for planting. Now, any long-time reader of my newsletter will tell you that I’m not a big fan of beginners (or even more advanced hobbyists) starting their trees from seed. These days, there are simply too many other inexpensive options out there for starting a new specimen, to include starting a tree from a cutting. Having said that, it is a frequently asked question; so let’s cover the basics.

Where to Find Bonsai Seeds

There are plenty of sources for bonsai seeds, from both local neighborhood gardening stores and online businesses

Germination

In order for bonsai seeds to germinate, they have to be properly taken care of to ensure that they remain fresh. All seeds should be stored in a refrigerator until they are ready to be planted. This is how they should be stored by seed sellers, and if you're not ready to plant them once you get them, store them in your refrigerator - properly labeled of course!

There are two methods used to germinate seeds: to let them germinate the natural way, or to force them to generate.

Natural germination

Plant (or sow, as the technical term would have it) the seeds outside, in appropriate soil in the autumn. With 250 different species, each of them will grow best in different soils. The seeds will overwinter, and by the next spring, they will have sprouted.

Forced germination

In order to force germinate your seeds, there are three steps that typically must be followed. (Some seeds require different methods than others - so always verify the proper strategy for the species you have purchased.)

Scarification

Every seed has a shell - and some shells are harder than others. The scarification process softens the shells and allows water to reach the interior. Therefore, place the seeds in a bowl of water for twenty-four to forty-eight hours. Depending on species, some may need to be boiled, others only need water at room temperature.

Seeds that are not viable will float to the top of the water and may be discarded, viable seeds will sink to the bottom of the bowl.

Cold Stratification

For those species that need cool weather to prepare them for the germination process in summer, place the seeds in moistened paper towels, put them in a ziplock plastic bag, and store these in your refrigerator for from thirty days to one hundred and twenty. You'll want to check them periodically to see if any have germinated, but normally this won't occur until the proper time.

Heat Stratification

For some species, the cold stratification process should be interrupted by a period of time called "heat stratification" - simply place the seeds in a bowl in your room, exposed to room temperature, for a period of time, before returning them to the fridge to continue cold stratification. Again, this depends on the species of tree you're trying to grow.

Sowing

During spring, plant the seeds in soil appropriate for the species. You can plant them either outside, or in a small pot to keep inside. Bury the seeds not more than a half-inch down in the soil, and keep the soil moist.

Once the seedlings have sprouted, you're ready for the next step!

source:bonsaigardener.org/

Symbol of bonsai

2011-05-16T02:42:00.001-04:00

Symbol of bonsai - bonsai if properly cared for, can live hundreds of years. How beautiful it is to make a living testimony to the beauty from generation to generation.

When we look at bonsai trees - the standard "Chokkan" or "vertical" style "Fukinagashi" or "wind" style "ishitzuki" or "rock-dweller", you will see results in hours and hours, even years, after years of work.

How can we design a magnificent tree by ourself?

According to experts, the sense of design is not "innate" In other words, there no needs to be a born talent. By examining dozens of bonsai - in person or in Japanese gardens of several books on the subject, you get an idea of what you can do yourself.

It's also important not to be too ambitious. Always start with small trees (unless they grow seed tree), and practice, practice, practice.

There are many issues bonsai need to research. Most people in the West just wants a well designed tree that adapts to its climate and the colors of the leaves and some specifications of flowers or fruit. But there's a little symbolism in Japanese bonsai. (As is the symbolism of the flowers of the West, most lay people do not know.)

Chrysanthemum:
This flower blooms longer than most others, and is thus the symbol of longevity.

Lotus flower:
Ths midsummer flower is the symbol of truth, perfection, and immortality. It is used as a symbol for the Buddha's life - "born in the problems and darkness of society, he grew to become pure and truthful, suggesting that a pure and lovely spirit can lift itself above worldliness to live in peaceful serenity."

Morning Glory:
This flower has a short life, and thus is associated with mortality.

Peony:
This is called the "flower of twenty days" because of its short blooming season. It is considered a symbol of prosperity.

Pine:
This is the hardiest of all evergreens, and symbolizes a healthy and happy old age.

Plum blossoms:
According to author A. Koehn, "The Japanese see the contrast between the knotted trunks and young green shoots as symbolic of age and youth - one bent and crabbed, the other fresh and vigorous, suggesting that in spite of age, the charm and joy of youth can always rise a new."

Fungi Attack your bonsai

2011-05-15T02:50:00.001-04:00

Fungi Attack your bonsai - Fungal infection are something else you need to watch for when growing bonsai. Try to use a fungicide that is organic first, turning only to chemical as a last resort. Additionally, you want to read any labels carefully.

Some products are not meant to work on the specific disease that you are trying to control. That means using it anyway and hoping it will help can sometimes cause damage to your prized bonsai. You should also find a very small place on your bonsai to test the product before treating the entire tree, just in case.

The best type of fungicide is one that is protecting. That means it is comprised of a shield that will protect your plants healthy tissue. If your bonsai already is infected with a fungus, then you want to eradicat, which will help kill it. Then to protect uninfected portions of the bonsai, you would use a systemic fungicide.

If the bonsai's root system has a fungus, it can usually be protected very effectively with Thiophanate methyl. Roots are obviously more difficult to treat. Therefore, you will need to apply the fungicide to the soil as a drench so it can then travel through the plant systematically. Another problem with roots is that because the soil stays moist, its loaded with diverse microbes. Beause of this, the fungicide will probably degrade quickly; meaning you will need to give more than one application.

The following are recommendations specifically for fungus and bonsai:

leaf spots = benomyl, chlorothalonil, mancozebm propiconazole, triadimefon
Powdery mildew - Triadimefon
Rust - chlorothalonil, mancozeb, propiconazole
Root rot (water mold) - fosetyl-A1, metalaxyl
Root rot (fungi) - methyl, thiophanate
Seed treatment - captan

Moyogi Style

2011-05-15T02:00:00.004-04:00