Our Living Space

The Hacking has started

noreply@blogger.com (Ben) — Sun, 20 Dec 2009 16:40:00 +0000

Hacking at the house has started 3 days ago on Friday. I went over to check the progress and was impressed at extent of the work already done. I'll try to upload the pictures in a few days. In the meantime, stay tuned.

The pre-reno pictures

noreply@blogger.com (Ben) — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 07:17:00 +0000

It's been raining for the past few days so it was difficult to get shots with decent lighting. But then again, it also helped me find out that I need to catch the light for the dining area because it can get a little dim.

The ex-owners were very kind to have cleaned up the house after they moved out. On with the pictures.

This is the view from the "front" of the house looking into the kitchen.

Another view of the living room. The opening on the left leads to the bedrooms.

This is from the kitchen, looking towards the living room. The cabinet on the right separates the dining area from the kitchen. The door next to it opens to the where the storeroom currently is.

View of the kitchen. The door on the left is for the storeroom. There are 2 doors on the right, the one in front goes to the common bathroom, the one at the back goes to the service balcony. The storeroom and common toilet opening I'm left with about 2m x 3m of space for the kitchen. So I hope to be able to relocate the toilet entrance to the service balcony, and hack away the storeroom.

This is bedroom 3, which we are considering converting into a study. There used to be a set of bookshelves where the white patch is now. I guess that was as far as the previous owners could reach when the repainted the house.

This is bedroom 2, the smallest of the 3 bedrooms. It will be reserved for my DS. For now, it'll be his playroom since he is sleeping with me and DW in the MBR for the time being.

Two views of the MBR. The wardrobe actually looks better in the picture than it actually is.

Two views of the MBR toliet. Its the older type with only one water-trap.

The common toilet on the left and service balcony on the right.

How resistant is your countertop to bacteria?

noreply@blogger.com (Ben) — Mon, 09 Nov 2009 17:41:00 +0000

Are you concerned about bacterial contamination of your kitchen countertop? With my toddler son, I know I certainly am.

Today, it is understood that many food items that we purchase are highly contaminated with pathogenic micro-organisms, and it is necessary for the home cook to make these foods safe. Often, the first step in food preparation is cutting and manipulating the food to get it ready. It is essential that the countertop be cleaned after raw food has touched the surface. Otherwise, there can be cross-contamination, and the people eating the food prepared on the cross-contaminated surface can become ill.
An important study was carried out by the Hospitality Institute of Technology and Management, a St. Paul Minnesota USA on countertop cleanliness. The institute develops educational materials, carries out research, provides data and reports for those working in the retail food industry The purpose of this particular study was to determine the cleanability of six of the most commonly used countertop surfaces: Laminate, Wood, Tile, Concrete, Stainless Steel and Granite.

The study measured the bacteria resistance capacity of six common countertop materials. Each surface was contaminated with E-coli (nearly 2 billion of the micro organisms), washed and rinsed with soap and water and then sanitized with a vinegar-and-water solution.

With just washing and rinsing, the retention of E.coli from most retained to most removed is as follows:

Laminate
Wood
Ceramic Tile
Concrete
Stainless Steel
Granite

Laminate, washing and rinsing reduced the bacterial counts by about 285 to 1. When the vinegar was applied, the overall reduction was increased to about 500,000 to 1.

Wood, washing and rinsing reduced the bacterial counts by about 500 to 1. When the vinegar was applied, the overall reduction was increased to about 2,000 to 1.

Ceramic Tile, washing and rinsing reduced the bacterial counts by about 900 to 1. When the vinegar was applied, the overall reduction was increased to about 233,000 to 1.

Concrete, washing and rinsing reduced the bacterial counts by about 2,400 to 1. When the vinegar was applied, the overall reduction was increased to about 30,600 to 1.

Stainless Steel, washing and rinsing reduced the bacterial counts by about 4,000 to 1. When the vinegar was applied, the overall reduction was increased to about 230,000,000 to 1.

Granite, washing and rinsing reduced the bacterial counts by about 36,000 to 1. When the vinegar was applied, the overall reduction was increased to about 80,000,000 to 1.

With washing, rinsing and sanitizing, the retention of E.coli from most retained to most removed is as follows:

Wood
Concrete
Ceramic Tile
Laminate
Granite
Stainless Steel

The experiment has shown that every countertop will have a different cleanability. A point to note was the experiment was done with new samples. When some of these samples become worn, the reduction will probably not be as significant, except for stainless steel, which should change the least.

While granite showed the greatest reduction in washing, overall, after the vinegar sanitizing, the stainless steel had the greatest reduction.

Laminate countertops

noreply@blogger.com (Ben) — Fri, 06 Nov 2009 16:21:00 +0000

If the term laminate countertop doesn't ring a bell, the name Formica probably will. Formica is the brand name of the oldest makers of laminate countertop materials.

Laminate Composition and Grades

High Pressure Laminates (HPL) are made by bonding melamine, paper and plastic resin layers through a high heat and high pressure process. This manufacturing process produces the dark brown line at the edge of the HPL. Sometimes you might see a brown line along the seams of the joints of the countertop.

There are specialty HPLs that do away with the brown edge, and have a solid color running throughout the sheet. But these have a smaller range of colors and finishes.

HPLs come in different thickness depending on their intended use. For kitchen countertops, there are 2 basic grades used. Standard, General-purpose or Horizontal grade (0.05") is suitable for countertops, tabletops, shelving and desktops. It is the most resilient grade of HPL and can withstand the most impact. For postforming—the process of forming the decorative HPL into simple shapes—a slightly thinner grade (0.04") of HPL is used. Vertical grade (0.028 - 0.03") is the thinnest and is typically used for low-impact vertical installations, like backsplashes, and cabinets, doors and drawer faces. It can be used for horizontal applications if the surface is not expected to withstand heavy use.

Countertop
To make a laminate countertop, the HPL is glued to a core/substrate with contact cement. In Singapore, solid-ply is commonly used as the substrate of countertops although particleboard and medium-density fibreboard (MDF) can also be used.

Is there such a thing as non-solid ply? Hollow-core assemblies are more commonly seen in hollow-core doors and areas where a solid core is not needed. A piece of non-solid ply panel is probably made out of 2 thin sheets of plywood sandwiching a skeletal frame of either hardwood or plywood, with a paper honeycomb infill. Of course there is nothing to stop the carpenter having just the frame and omitting the honeycomb infill. I think for the moment, no one has pulled a fast one in using hollow-core for kitchen countertops, but there is no harm in giving it a tap or two just to be sure.

Countertops are identified in 3 parts, the Backsplash, the Deck (the countertop surface) and the Nose (the front edge).

Backsplash
There are 3 basic backsplash styles for laminate countertops: the Set On, Attached and Coved.

Set on (Standard) - A loose backsplash about 4 inches high is actually "set on" the countertop and is glued to the deck.

Attached - When the backsplash is fastened to the back of the deck, it is referred to as an attached backsplash.

Typically both the set on and attached backsplash has a square edge at the top, that matches the front edge of the countertop deck. A line of caulk is used where the backsplash and countertop deck meet, in order to seal out water.

If the set on or attached backsplash is used at the sink or water resident area, a silicone or other water resistant adhesive should be used to seal the joint between the splash and the deck.

Coved - A coved backsplash is formed when a continuous sheet of HPL rolls from the nose, to the deck up to the top of the backsplash. This provides a seamless back to the countertop. Typically, this is done via post forming.

Post forming

Laminated countertops comes in 2 varieties: Postform and Self-Edge. "Post form" laminate countertops are prefabricated pieces that come in a variety of lengths complete with rolled front edges and backsplashes. The HPL is “wrapped” around the core material from the curved backspash to the front edge to provide a seamless surface. In other words, the top is one piece which eliminates the need for caulking joints.

Post form pieces usually comes no longer than 12 foot lengths. So if the countertop runs for longer than that, there will be a joint seam. Also if the countertop turns a corner it will also have a seam in the corner where it is mitered.

Self-Edge

In "self-edge" laminate countertops, the core is first fabricated to shape before the laminate is glued on using contact adhesive. This produces no surface seams unless the length of the countertop is longer that the sheet of HPL used. A typical sheet of HPL is 4' by 8'. Any edges are then trimmed with a router. While self-edge countertops allows for angles going every which way, this method cannot produce the curved contours of post-forming.

The advantage of Self-Edge countertops, besides a greater degree of customization, is that the HPL comes in a little thicker grade material. The post form HPL is a little thinner since the backsplash and counter are all one piece and the HPL has to be able to bend to cover it all.

Seams
Kraft paper leaves a dark line at the edges, unless it runs wall to wall or is trimmed with a decorative material such as wood or stainless steel. The dark lines can be avoided by using colored core HPLs. But as mentioned earlier, the color and range will be limited.

Because the core of the countertop is porous, it will swell when wet. If this happens at a seam in the countertop, the laminate will raise or buckle at the seam, and may split. Therefore, seam placement becomes critical and the fewer seams, the better. Laminate sheets are available in 3', 4' and 5' widths and lengths of 8', 10' and 12'. (largest sheet size is 5' x 12'). Exceed these dimensions and you'll need a seam.

Do not place a seam near a sink. Do not accept a countertop that has a wide, uneven or readily visible seam.
Wide seams require a filler, can collect dirt, and may eventually permit water under the surface.

Sink Limitations
Drop-in or self-rimming sinks are typically used with laminate countertops. The raw edge around the sink must be sealed properly so water can't seep between the sink and the countertop. As long as the edge is sealed, problems like delamination are unlikely.

If water problems occur, they typically affect the core to which the HPL is bonded. When penetrated by water, depending on the type of core used, it may swell and deteriorate, leaving unsightly warping, bumps, and gaps.

Undermount sinks are typically discouraged with laminate counters because it is so difficult to guard against water penetration. The Good news is that with new CounterSeal products, which lines the opening, the countertop core is sealed and protected from water damage and undermount sinks can be installed. The Bad news is that the last I checked, it isn't available in Singapore. If anyone knows where it can be had in Singapore drop a comment and I'll update the post to share it with everyone.

Also, when drilling holes for faucets or soap dispensers always make sure the exposed core of the countertop is sealed using either an epoxy sealer or oil primer. That way if water gets past the faucet seal it won’t damage the countertop core material.

Durability
Plastic laminates are durable but not indestructible.

They are impact resistant, fairly easy to maintain, and with proper care they will keep their good looks for many, many years. However, since the material is softer than soild surface, engineered or natural stone some precautions are necessary.

Cuts/Scratches/Chips
Because the typical structure is made up of layers, it is impossible to repair surface chips, scratches and cuts.

Do not use the surace as a cutting board. Ceramic or abrasive objects can also damage the surface if dragged across the countertop. Abrasive cleaners can scratch and dull the surface.

Water Damage
Seams are the most vulnerable area of plastic laminate countertops.

If the seam is not properly matched or sealed, water may penetrate the substrate, causing the substrate to swell or crumble and the laminate layers to peel or break apart. This situation cannot be repaired, and the countertop must be replaced.

Heat Damage
Prolonged exposure to temperatures of 60°C or higher may cause the laminate to separate from the core material, or cause it to melt. Generous use of trivets is advised.

Chemical Damage
Never use cleaners containing acid, alkali, or sodium hypochlorite. These cleaners will mar, etch, corrode, and permanently discolor the laminate surface. Also, make sure that bottles, rags, and other materials contaminated with these cleaners never contact the laminate surface.

Examples of cleaners containing acid, alkaline, or sodium hypochlorite include, but are not limited to: drain cleaners, metal cleaners, oven cleaners, ceramic cooktop cleaners, rust removers, tub and tile cleaners, toilet bowl cleaners, and some countertop cleaners.

Stains/Discoloration
To remove stains, use a mild household cleaner and allow it to draw out the stain. Blot with a clean, damp cloth, and rinse with clean water.

Stubborn Stains
Some stains may require repeated cleanings before the stain disappears such as: food stains, glass rings, food dyes, water marks, coffee or tea stains, and fingerprints.

Stains which may not disappear even after repeated cleaning, include: wood stains, inks, indelible inks, newsprint, food pricing label ink, and marking pens.
Permanent Stains
Some materials and liquids, such as dyes and pharmaceutical products, will permanently stain laminate. Examples include: hair dyes and rinses, silver nitrate, laundry bluing, tannic acid, iodine, peroxide, and marking-pens.

Stubborn stains may be reduced by applying a paste of baking soda and water on the area to pull out the stain. The paste will be slightly abrasive, so do not rub. Wipe up the paste with a clean, damp, non-abrasive cotton cloth, and then rinse with clean water.

Bacterial Resistance
A study found that with just washing and rinsing alone, laminate countertops retained the most E. coli organisms as compared to Wood, Ceramic Tile, Concrete, Granite and Stainless Steel. Only after sanitizing with a 10% vinegar solution did the laminate countertop fare better.

This means that to maintain proper hygiene, laminate countertop tops needs to be cleaned and sanitized each time raw food is processed on it. Read more about this here.

Maintenance
Use a soft, non-abrasive cloth and a mild household cleaner. Always rinse laminate surfaces after cleaning.

Forgetting to rinse after cleaning is a major cause of damage to a laminate surface. If even a small amount of cleaning solution remains on the surface, moisture from cups or dishes can reactivate it and result in permanently-etched scars (i.e. cup marks).

Green Countertops
With the Green movement going strong, I figured I should mention something about Green Laminate Countertops.

Traditionally, laminate countertop cores are made of particleboards formed from bonding wood fibres and particles with urea-formaldehyde resins, which emits formaldehyde vapors in measurable amounts. The laminate is also bonded with solvent-based contact adhesives, which also emit Volatile-Organic-Compounds (VOCs).

Problems related to breathing in formaldehyde and VOCs include triggering asthma, eye/nose/throat irritation, wheezing and coughing, fatigue, skin rash, severe allergic reactions, as well as suspected in causing sick-building-syndrome and even causing cancer.

The good news is major brands of plastic laminates are now available with Greenguard Indoor Air-Quality Certification.

New generations of particleboard are now available that are manufactured with no added urea-formaldehyde. Water-based contact adhesives now on the market also emit far lower levels of VOCs than older products.

So if you are considering going for a laminate countertop (actually this extends to most carpentry work in the renovation), you have the option to go Green with these products. However, it will probably cost more than those using conventional materials. If money is no issue, the next thing will be how to ask your average Joe ID/Contractor to use these materials.

HPL commonly used in Singapore
Since your laminated countertop will most likely be manufactured in Singapore (or Malaysia), you might as well be aware of the range of HPL that is available for choosing. These are what I am aware of.

Lamitak - Carried by Tak Products & Services, the company also carries the Nevamar and Alpikord brands of HPL.

Formica - One of the most well-known brand of HPL. So much so that older generations, and even some craftsman still refers to HPL as Formica.

Seng Lee - Actually this is a company that deals in HPL. The brands that they reported to be carrying are Duropal, Lamicolor and Aica.

EDL - Another brand that is popular with local IDs and contractors.

Much ado about Kitchen Countertops

noreply@blogger.com (Ben) — Thu, 29 Oct 2009 09:53:00 +0000

Finding a suitable countertop for the kitchen can be challenging. It needs to be durable, stain-resistant, easy to clean & maintain and aesthetically pleasing.

Because of cost, I began my reno planning believing I should go with Solid Surface. I thought to myself, its about mid-priced and so long as I'm careful to maintain it (i.e. wiping off spills quickly, diligently using trivets, etc) I should alright. But the more I read about experiences of home owners who chose Solid Surfaces, the more the negative voices bothered me. Before long, I started to doubt if it is the right choice after all.

So before I make my final decision, I wanted to take a closer look into the world of kitchen countertops. I'll be posting as I go along so things might get messy for a while until I can organized it more coherently. I'll start with the simplest (and cheapest) and move up to the most expensive.

Next up: Laminates

Oh before I forget, most contractors and ID are likely to quote for the countertop as a separate item from the kitchen cabinets (but I'm not too sure about laminate countertops though).

My Draft Kitchen Layout

noreply@blogger.com (Ben) — Sun, 25 Oct 2009 15:15:00 +0000

One of the IDs that I'm evaluating just got back to me with their intial design. I kind of like where they are going. Because I haven't engaged them, I can't post the design up as yet.

What I did do, is used IKEA's kitchen planner to do up the kitchen layout as they have proposed.

As you can see, it's a classic L-type layout. Don't mind the colors as I haven't decided on what to use yet. But it'll probably be something light in color. The 2 boxes on the right are the washing machine and dryer, and the big box on the left is the refridgerator.

The empty space in the middle is about 2.5m wide. I did consider an Island-type layout but everything ended up very cramped so I guess I have to ditch that idea. This is probably very close to what I would be having for my kitchen.

If all this talk about L-type, Island-type layout sounds confusing, no worries. I'll be making a post soon on the different types of layout commonly used for kitchens.

I'm a convert of the drawers versus open shelves for the base cabinet. The thing to decide next is if I want Blum, Hettich or some other soft-closing, full extension drawers. It'll likely boil down to the extras I need to fork out for it.

One other thing I opted out will probably be the dish-drainer underneath the cabinet over the sink. I don't like the how small it is so I'll be going for a dish drying rack next to the sink.

Kitchen Layouts

noreply@blogger.com (Ben) — Tue, 20 Oct 2009 09:16:00 +0000

The kitchen layout deals not only with the proper selection and placement of appliances and cabinetry, but also is the very foundation of the design of the kitchen. It will also determine how cook-friendly the kitchen is.

A kitchen layout should be designed around a work triangle. From the smallest kitchen to one on a grand scale, all kitchens are equipped with the same basic appliances. The significance of a kitchen layout is to arrange everything within a functional kitchen plan.

Regardless of the perimeter shape of the room, most kitchens are organized around one of several basic kitchen layouts, each with its own type of triangle: One-Wall, Galley/Corridor, L-Shape, U-Shape, G/Peninsula Shape and Island.

However, in today's modern homes that embrace the open-concept by removing walls and eliminating door ways, new arrangement styles may be necessary. The traditional idea of lining the perimeter of a kitchen with base and wall cabinets may not work in a modern kitchen.

One-Wall Layout

For the smaller kitchens, the one-wall layout is a simple and functional solution. Ideally, there should be one wall that is at least 3 meters long without windows or doors at the wall. In this layout, the work triangle has been collasped into a long line with all the countertops, cabinetry and applianced laid along one wall. This can be very efficient, provided that it is small enough.

When talking about small and efficient kitchens, I have to mention something that I came across. The Japanese kitchen or diabandokoro (台盤所) epitomizes the one-wall layout. While you may find larger offerings, most Japanese kitchen manufacturers will offer a "System Kitchen" that is only 1 tusbo or 3.3 sqm (about the area of 2 tatami mats). One look and you'll appreciate how much thought was put into the design of these "System Kitchens".

While there is a trend for the affluent with larger homes to move towards open concept kitchens, a large majority of Japan will still be in small cramp appartments where these compact system kitchens offer the only viable option available.

These days with more and more condos offering shoebox studio units, I wonder how soon will these system kitchens become commonplace in Singapore.

Pros: Simple yet functional and compact. Its about the only layout available for a narrow kitchen space.

Cons: The wall must be at least 3 meters long in order to fit everything in comfortably. Very long one-wall layouts will create the longest working/walking distance requiring one to walk from one end of the room to the other.

Galley/Corridor Layout

Named for food prep areas in ships, the galley/corridor layout is the choice of many professional chefs. The galley/corridor layout offers the most efficient use of space in the kitchen. With 2 rows of wall, there is alot more space for counters and cabinets and moving between the work zones can be as easy as turning around. This layout places 2 points of the work triangle on one wall, and the other on the opposite wall. Most often, the sink and hob are placed on the same wall with the refridgerator opposite.

Be sure to allow enough room for opposite drawers/doors to open at the same time. One other thing, keep the Cooking/Hot Zone and Cleaning Zone on the same wall to reduce the risk of accidents while moving hot pans between the hob and sink.

However, if the "corridor" is open at both ends, the through traffic can cause congestions in the kitchen. This is more often than not the case in most HDB flats. There is always a toilet or service balcony/yard at the other end of the kitchen.

Pros: The long countertops and work zones are versatile and efficient.

Cons: The galley layout does not work well for small or narrow kitchen. Also through traffic may cause congestions in the kitchen.

L-Shape Layout

The L-shape is a very popular and versatile kitchen layout. The layout uses two adjoining perpendicular walls, and benefit from having no traffic through the work area. Usually, the refridgerator is on one end of the long leg of the "L", the sink towards the centre of the same wall, and the hob on the short leg of the "L"

While the layout can have "legs" as long as you want, it is best to only elongate one leg. This longer leg should also be divided into different work zones for efficient use of the space.

This is the layout that I'll probably be using. As you can see from my draft layout, I've swapped the hob and sink locations. I would have liked to retain the ideal zone locations, but unfortunately HDB kitchen areas are not designed for it. To have the sink near the refridgerator, I would need to run a lenght of pipe along the wall from the sink to the water trap located near the service balcony. With at least 3 bends in the pipework, not only is this a hassle, it would also be more prone to choking.

However, I'm still playing around with the placement of the zones and cabinetry so my kitchen layout may evolve.

Pros: Great for corner spaces. No through traffic in work zones. Can incorporate an island or dining area easily if space allows.

Cons: Not efficient for larger kitchens. The L "corner" may require special arrangements to maximize storage space.

U-Shape Layout

The U-shape layout uses 3 adjoining walls in the kitchen. As the work area is enclosed, there is no through traffic. The U-shape layout offers a lot of countertop, cabinetry and storage space allowing the refridgerator, sink and hob can be spaced out for maximum efficiency and convenience.

This layout puts the sink, refridgerator and hob each on a different wall. It works best with the sink in the centre of the "U", and the refridgerator at one end of the run of counters to avoid breaking up the work surface.

Pros: Lots of counter space. A wide "U" can support an island or dining area.

Cons: Not suitable for smaller kitchens. 2 sets of "corner" cabinets can be costly if special arrangements are required. If the "U" becomes too wide, then an island becomes a must instead of an option to remain efficient.

G-Shape/Peninsula Layout

A G-shape layout is essentially a larger U-shape layout with a shorter 4th leg added in the form of a peninsula that seperates the kitchen work area from the adjoining breakfast/dining area/family area. This layout usually has 1 point of the work triangle on each of 2 walls, and the 3rd on the peninsula.

Usually either the sink or the hob is placed on the peninsula. If putting the hob, a safety margin should be considered by either making the peninsula deeper or making it tiered with the hob lower than the serving edge.

Pros: More countertop/storage space. Peninsula can be converted into a breakfast bar or entertaining area.

Cons: Requires a large amount of space. Share the same cons as the U-Shape Layout.

Island Layout

Just about any of the above layouts, with the exception of the Galley, can benefit from the addition of an island if there is enough space. The kitchen island vastly expands the design potential and convenience of a kitchen. Most of today's kitchen designers will showcase open-concept kitchens featuring island designs.

Your needs and tastes will help determine what kind of island you should have. An island can serve as a cooking/hot zone, a cleaning zone. A more dramatic use is to have a 2-tiered island, with one side having the prep and cooking zone, and the other side serve as counter seatting with a dining surface.

So unless you are a serious cook who wants the Galley without the accompanying wall, a deciding factor in choosing an island layout lies in its potential as a focal point for entertaining and socializing. Any way you look at it, people will gather around the island when in the kitchen.

Pros: Versatile. The sky's (and wallet) the limit with what can be done in an island layout. Wonderful for entertaining guests.

Cons: The versatility of the island comes with a hefty price. In floor plumbing, wiring, gas line and even an island hood will be costly to install. Island layouts also require a lot of space.

Which of these layouts suit you more?

Kitchen Work Triangle

noreply@blogger.com (Ben) — Sun, 18 Oct 2009 16:11:00 +0000

The kitchen work triangle is an imaginary triangle that connects the sink, refridgerator and hob. This work triangle is functional centre of any kitchen. The goal is to place the 3 most common workareas or zones in the most efficient distance apart, and to minimize unnecessary traffic through this work zone.

The 3 traditional zones are: Hob - Cooking/Hot Zone, Sink - Preparation Zone and Refridgerator - Consumables Zone. It might be different for you if you use the kitchen differently. These represent the 3 points of the work triangle.

Efficiency of the kitchen is the main goal of the kitchen work triangle, as it keeps all the major work areas near to the cook but not so close that the kitchen becomes cramped. The kitchen work triangle is also used to minimize traffic within the kitchen. If the work stations are too far away from each other, it probably means that you'll be taking a few extra steps each time you prepare something in the kitchen. On the other hand, if they are too close it means you might have a cramped kitchen with little place to work.

There are a couple of guidelines when considering the kitchen work triangle:

The distance of each side of the triangle should be kept reasonably short to minimise unnecessary movements while preparing meals.
The triangle should not cut into an island or peninsula by too much if it cannot be avoided.

I've avoided putting any recommended distance between the zones because I feel that is largely subjective. As long a it works for you, go with it.

While it is common now to read about having 2 or more work triangles to accomodate more cooks or helpers in the kitchen, I believe that should be reserved for those who can accommodate large kitchens. Anyone who has ever been to a HDB kitchen (especially those built recently) will know that 1 triangle is about as many as we can fit in right now.

Does your ID incorporate the work triangle into the kitchen design?

Kitchen Zones

noreply@blogger.com (Ben) — Thu, 15 Oct 2009 07:25:00 +0000

Popularized by the modular kitchen, the concept of zoning the kitchen is based on the idea of setting up the work area to accomodate the function performed there. While we may or may not actually buy kitchen modules, I think knowing the design principles will still help us when we model our own kitchens.

Image courtesy of Dynamic Space by Blum

There are 5 common distinct work areas identified for a kitchen: Cooking/Hot Zone, Prep Zone, Cleaning/Wet Zone, Non-Consumables Zone, and Consumables Zone.

Cooking/Hot Zone
This is the heart of a kitchen. The cooking/hot zone includes the hob, a heat proofed area to put hot utensils, and supplies used around the hob such as pots, pans, lids, spatula, pot holders, and etc. Appliances such as the microwave and oven should also ideally be kept in this zone.

It would not be advisable to put the hod right next to, or against a wall. The heat from the burners will scorch the wall. If the hod is in an island or peninsula, make sure the rear of the hod is protected either by a raised block or by 20cm of counter space.

Preparation Zone
This is the main workarea of a kitchen where most of the food preparation takes place. It should be organized with easy access to knives, utensils, mixing bowls, small appliances, as well as frequently used supplies such as oil, salt, spices/seasoning, sauces, and etc.

It should be well lit and of a sufficient size. Following the kitchen work triangle, the Preparation Zone should be nearby to both the Cooking/Hot Zone and the Cleaning Zone.

Cleaning/Wet Zone
The Cleaning/Wet Zone is where the preparation, washing up and general cleaning takes place. It includes the sink, a place to stack dirty dishes, a place for the dish-drainer, and household cleaners and cleaning utensils. A place for waste separation/storage is essential. If you are using a dishwasher, it should be here too.

Non-Consumable Zone
This area is used to store non-foodstuffs like crockery, dinnerware and seldom used appliances. Proximity to the Cleaning/Wet Zone would be good to minimize the distance travelled when putting away the dishes after washing.

Consumables Zone
This area is used to store consumables including chilled and unchilled foodstuffs. The fridge is a fixed part of this zone. Opened packages should be kepted in the Preparation Zone.

It used to be a no-no to have the fridge next to the hob (for those who subscribe to feng-shui, it still is). But these days most fridges are better insulated. As long as the manufacturer's recommended clearance space is observed, I think it should not be a problem.

Tip: Have the fridge vendor make it such that the door swings "away" from the hob. This will make it easier to reach into the fridge when you are attending to the hob.

Does your ID, especially those to claim to specialize in kitchen designs, look into these zones when designing your kitchen?

My motivation for this blog

noreply@blogger.com (Ben) — Thu, 15 Oct 2009 03:15:00 +0000

For sure there are lots of reno blogs out there, and in them are many gems of information for those who would spend the time to read through all the posts. And then, there are the various forums where people meet to share about their experiences. Again, there are tons of information to be had but one have to have the patience to swim through the countless topics and postings to glean them. Finally there is the portals with articles on renovation design tips and ideas. But I found these to relate more to people living in the Americas, Europe and ANZ.

What I needed and hoped for is an online resource where I can find all of these information in one convenient location, but more importantly, which is relevant to me. I looked but I haven't found any with a local context.

So in response my needs, I decided I'd create one for myself.

Here in this blog, I'll be putting up all the information that I came across while doing research for my renovation. And for fun, I'll organize it tongue-in-cheek magazine style and group the posts into the following categories:

Küchen Essentials
Simply Living
Bedroom Basics
Bath and Beyond

I'm not claiming to be trying to create the "be all end all" online resource for all things reno in Singapore. That would be too conceited. What I hope to do is do something useful with the information that I've collected for myself and hope that it will be useful to those also embarking on the renovation trail.

The blog is still in its infancy so bear with me while I flesh it out. Post in comments if there is something you wish to contribute. I'll add it into the main post with due credits.

Woah! This is so going to the "About this blog" link... once I get around to doing it.

My Floorplan

noreply@blogger.com (Ben) — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 06:20:00 +0000

Rollover your mouse pointer on the image to see the changes (shown in red) from the default HDB layout.

This is the floorplan to my new house. The current owner made some modifications which I liked. Basically he relocated the entrance to the 2 bedrooms. As a result, I have more contiguous space instead of having one of the bedroom door interrupting the flow of the living room.

Other changes I am considering:

Hack away the storeroom for a bigger contiguous space to play with in the kitchen. Since it is not a CD shelther I think this will not be an issue.
Relocate the common toilet entrance to face the service balcony. Again this is to give me a more contiguous kitchen space.

Air Conditioning

noreply@blogger.com (Ben) — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 03:53:00 +0000

I'm considering either Diakin, Panasonic or Sanyo air-con systems.
My current StarMex Easy Clean, which I have had for a little over 2 years, has been a big disappointment. I've also been told by people who does air-con servicing that StarMex is known to problematic. I was skeptical at first, putting it down to either a bad installation job or just my luck that I got a bad unit.
That was until a week ago when my air-con went bonkers. It first happened to my room. On and off the air-flow wasn't cooled. It was just regular humid warm air being pushed out. Soon it was happening in the other rooms.

Credit should be given to the service team though. I called the service centre and gave a vague description of that I was only getting cooled air on and off. A service visit was arrange for the following day. S$140 for the trip and repair, S$60 if I choose not to go ahead with the servicing after the inspection. Cost for the parts is charged separately.
Just before the appointed time, I turned on the air-con for a check. And wouldn't you know it, it was working fine - all three of them. Just my luck. How do I show the service guy my "faulty" air-con when its working now?
Strangely enough, the service guy came with a box in hand. A quick check and I was informed that the circuit board for the outdoor unit was fried. I was shown the faulty component - a frayed box capacitor - and was asked if I would like to proceed with the replacement. Of course, I said yes. No more warm nights.
Out came the replacement board from the box and soon everything was working fine and dandy. That will be S$254 thank you very much. Given my vague description of the problem, I was surprised that the service guy knew exactly which part to bring along. Usually the parts would be left in the van and they would only know which part is needed "after" the inspection. Which would mean, vague as it was, my description was apparently enough and something that they are probably all too familiar with. Which means that its a common fault. But my unit is only 2 years old!
So StarMex is out for me.
Daikin is a well known brand that is reliable, it is also more expensive. And while Sanyo has also been known to be reliable, there has been sporadic comments recently that its not what it used to be. Panasonic has also been recommended to me lately.
So it'll be one of the three. I'll post an update once I've decided which to get.

An Adventure Begins

noreply@blogger.com (Ben) — Thu, 24 Sep 2009 14:32:00 +0000

2nd appointment with HDB is on the 11th Nov 2009. That is also when I'll be getting the keys to my new house.

That doesn't leave me with a lot of time for the renovation since CNY is just round the corner. From my past experience, most of the workers in the renovation industry is from across the straits and they typically return home about a week before CNY. Thing is they don't return until the 7th day or the 15th. Which means unless I want to have a 2 - 3 week gap in the renovation schedule, I need to aim for completion 1 week before CNY. That gives me roughly 3 months max for the renovation itself.

I'll need to select a good and reliable ID, confirm the design and finalize the scope of work by the 11th Nov to maximise the renovation time.

Let the adventure begin!

Home & Furnishing Events

noreply@blogger.com (Ben) — Fri, 24 Jul 2009 04:41:00 +0000

Extracted from Singapore Expo website.
August 2009

Home Ideas 2009
Date: 08 Aug - 16 Aug
Time: 12 noon - 10 pm
Admission: Public - Free Admission
Venue: Hall 6A

General Home Consumer Fair. Interior Designer, Furniture, Furnishing, Home Appliances

September 2009

Gracious Home 2009
Date: 05 Sept - 13 Sept
Time: 12 noon - 10 pm
Admission: Public - Free Admission
Venue: Hall 6A

Gracious Home 2009 is a show that caters to all homeowners. With a combination of new products, services and expert advice, this show will give you countless ideas on enhancing your home's comfort and functionality.

October 2009

	Singapore Home & Design 2009 Date: 03 Oct - 11 Oct Time: 12 noon - 10 pm Admission: Public - Free Admission Venue: Hall 6A Showcasing Celebrity Dreamhome. The Most Anticipated Home Exhibition of The Year.
	Gracious Living 2009 Date:: 24 Oct - 01 Nov Time: 12 noon - 10 pm Admission: Public - Free Admission Venue: Hall 6A Gracious Living 2009 is a lifestyle home interiors exhibition. With increasing demand for the full range of home furnishings, interiors and out-door lifestyle products, this exhibition is the ideal place to keeping homeowners aware of exhibitor's latest offerings.

November 2009

Perfect Living 2009
Date: 14 Nov - 22 Nov
Time: 12 noon - 10 pm
Admission: Public - Free Admission
Venue: Hall 6A

Features the latest Furnitures, Furnishings, Interior Design, Home Appliances and other up market products.

December 2009

	Dream Home @ Expo Date: 05 Dec - 13 Dec Time: 12 noon - 10 pm Admission: Public - Free Admission Venue: Hall 6A Dream Homes @ Expo, the only homeshow that showcase top furniture manufacturer, interior designers and latest home furnishing products and home electrical appliances for 2010. Planning for a home of your Dream.Don't wait, a different home show never to be miss.
	Living Tomorrow 2010 Date: 05 Dec - 13 Dec Time: 12 noon - 10 pm Admission: Public - Free Admission Venue: Hall 6A Living Tomorrow 2010 is the ONLY place for you to experience what's new in Home, Home Decor, and More! You'll have the opportunity to meet over hundred experts and experience thousands of products and services.

Do you think there are good deals to be had at these shows?

Disclaimer

noreply@blogger.com (Ben) — Tue, 14 Jul 2009 07:15:00 +0000

Before I forget, the disclaimer.

This is a personal blog. The views and opinions expressed here represent my own and not those of the people, institutions or organizations that I may or may not be related with unless stated explicitly.

Also, my thoughts and opinions change from time to time as I come to learn more and develop my understanding about the things and issues that I am blogging about. This blog just provides a snapshot of the knowledge, views, and opinions that I hold at a particular point of time and these might probably change over a period of time. I reserve the right to evolve my knowledge, thoughts, and viewpoints over time and to change them without assigning any reason.

My blog includes links to other sites/blogs operated by third parties. These are provided as a means of convenient access to you to the information/opinion contained therein. I am in no way responsible for the content of any other sites or any products or services that may be offered through other sites.