Máguez – Yé – Máguez

Difficulty: Medium. Distance: 15.4km.

Duration: Approximately 3 hrs 30 minutes.

Route: Circular. Car or Bus: Own transport or the local Arrecife Bus route numbers 7 & 27 & 26, the latter arriving and departing from Yé (for those of you who only wish to do a linear walk).

Additional note: This walk can be partaken in three different ways. 1. A circular walk with a difficult descent down a volcano face on the return leg. 2. A circular walk with a gentle amble on the return leg. 3. A linear walk to Yé using the public bus service, or second car, from the centre of the village to return you to Máguez on the return leg.

Essentials: Suitable clothing (depending on the time of year), walking shoes/boots or trainers, water, suncream, mobile phone, snacks and/or picnic, hat.

We start this hike from the local church located in the small northern village of Máguez. Leave your car in the little carpark next to this building on Calle el Dice. Begin walking up this street into the village itself where you will pass the local Post Office (Correos) on your left handside. To your right you will notice a street called Calle el Callejon, you need to turn down here and follow it to its end, where you will turn left walking gradually uphill leaving the village. As you walk, take time to enjoy the silence with the only noise coming from the occasional dog barking. You can see that many of the villagers take great pride in their gardens and exterior plots of land, with pretty flowers and neat rows of vegetables clearly visible. You will pass a driving school on your right (Autosescuela) and second road will join yours from the right also. Continue out of the village bearing right onto a dirt track as the road forks shadowed by a group of solitary palm trees behind of which lies a scrub covered hillside. The track underfoot is one of loose gravel and is lined on both sides by high, dry volcanic stone walls speckled in places with an orange covered lichen provided splashes of colour on these dark stones. You will pass several whitewashed houses on your left as the track gradually bears right where you can now see the trail continuing directly ahead of you towards the foot of the imposing Monte Corona standing at 609m. The view for us seemed uncharacteristically green due to the amount of rainfall that we received here on the island a couple of weeks ago. The wall lined track continues gradually upwards as you walk, passing a mixture of scrub land and individual farming plots on either side of the trail. You can see how fastidious the local farmers have been in their plating with neat, perfectly straight rows of vegetables whose bright green leaves make a stark contrast to the black picon that they are growing in. A glance behind will now show you the large, spherical ball of the military radar station perched on top of the Risco de Famara, one of the two mountain ranges here on Lanzarote.

To your left as you follow the trail, you will notice the steep sides of Los Helechos (581m) and the road leading to the north of the island running parallel to you. As you progress, you will be offered views down towards the east coast and the ocean. As the trail splits, continue ahead towards the foot of the volcano where you will notice to your right shoulder high semicircular walls that have been built out of volcanic rock each protecting individual trees from the strong trade winds that at times lash the island, these include palm trees and fig trees. At the summit of the trail (2.4km, 32 minutes.) you will notice an old, stone building to your left with barred windows, behind of which, built on the side of the volcano, is a large paved area surrounded by low walls, which in the past, was used to collect rain water as it fell. Here the trail begins a gradual descent and ahead of you on your left you will notice, set in an extremely elevated position, a cream coloured house. This is infact going to be a seven star hotel and wellness centre which plans to offer its guests some of the world´s most exclusive accommodation and facilities. It is called La Torrecilla. The small island of Roque del Oeste is now visible out towards the horizon to your right. This small island makes up part of the island group of Chinijo Archipielago.

As the track progresses downwards, you will find yourself at the foot of the volcano where you notice that the picon of its walls is a deep brown and red colour, a contrast to the black of its surroundings, scattered with hardy, scrublike plants. As you look back you can notice the lip of its jagged crater at its peak with cacti at its foot being protected by low volcanic walls. You will see ahead of you, the dirt track finishes and is met by a main road, the LZ201 (3.8km, 52 minutes.) Join this main road, and make the gradual ascent up the slight hill, keeping to left side facing the oncoming traffic. Elevated La Torrecilla will remain to your left with, on your right, the unmistakeable semicircular volcanic rock structures protecting plants and vines down as far as the eye can see towards the coast. As this asphalt road bears around a corner to the left, you will notice on the righthand side a further dirt track descending downwards. Take care in crossing the road and take this trail. (4.5km, 1 hour) You can see down to the distant coast from this elevated vantage point including its white sandy beaches. The trail again features volcanic rock walls covered in burnt orange and pale green lichens as you head towards the volcano of La Quemada. The track meanders downwards, where you need to bear right when the track forks, through cactus and individual planting areas where some of the small, protected fruit trees this weekend were in bloom with pretty pink blossom, delicate flowers surrounded by jagged, black stones. You will also see as you progress individual figs trees to your left, sitting in a field of perfectly groomed volcanic picon. You will pass on your left, a high volcanic walled area with a gate housing a multitude of fruit trees and colourful flowers, and a dog that doesn´t sound to pleased to be in there! (5.5km, 1hour 20 minutes). The trail heads downwards bearing slightly left gradually flattening out as you pass a set of large gates with a set of concrete pillars to your right and a high wall. As you look to your left you will see the rugged open crater of La Quemada. You will progress past a large house that is in the process of being built, one that has been this way for some time due to lack of planning permission, and a private residence called Windsong on your right.

The trail will soon meet an asphalt road where you will need to turn left (6.2km, 1 hour 27 minutes) and follow this road past a large private house to your left called Casa La Breña. You again can see Roque del Oeste out on the horizon. On the second bend of the road, take the dirt track that bears uphill on your left, past the boundaries of this property. This track is quite steep at the onset as you head towards the craggy crater ahead, but soon becomes easier as you climb through the open scrubland. As you reach your first view point across the open valley ahead you can see, down to your right on the valley floor, lines of aloe vera plants thriving in the dark picon below. There is a steep climb now up a rugged track as you progress up the side of the valley, but it offers nice view behind down to the east coast as you take your time to walk. At its summit you will see a secluded dwelling on your left, pass here for approximately 50m and take the track down to the left heading towards the floor of a second small valley (7.8km 1 hour 48 minutes). As you descend, you will be walking down into a small valley with scrub like plants clinging to the sides of its walls.

This trail will take you past an old stone, sandy brown coloured building to your right with the inscription R.RNOBE 1949. The trail then meanders through this shallow valley bearing left sheltered on the left side by tiered volcanic walls and cacti. Follow it as it begins a gradual climb up the valley side and bear right when it forks. You will pass a small stone building on the left with barred windows before progressing across the second valley floor. Here you will notice a scattering of houses at the top of the hill ahead of you shadowed by the gaping crater of Monte Corona. Follow the trail past a small white building, a begin the gradual climb up the hillside. At its summit, you will reach a road with a signpost for Mirador del Rio on your right. You are now in the village of Yé. Across the road from you, you can see the restaurant Volcan de la Corona which is a nice place to stop and have a drink, or a bite to eat (9.8km 2 hours 15 minutes).

It is here that I will split the walk in two. For those who wish a gentle amble back, turn left at this point and follow the road downhill for approximately fifteen minutes, where you will soon see the elevated La Torrecilla to your right. As the road gently bears left past this building, you will notice ahead of you the dirt track that you used on the outward part of this walk. Turn here, and follow it back to the village of Máguez as before. For those of you who don´t have a fear of large dogs, and who fancy skirting around the face of a volcano on a regularly used hunters trail, take the road that runs slightly uphill to the left of the restaurant and make your way through the village. Stay on this road, Calle La Corona, through the village where to your right you can see in the distance the car park for the viewpoint of Mirador del Rio. When the road comes to an end, and it joins another one, turn left. Again you can see that some of the gardens are extremely well maintained featuring abundant vegetables and blooming flowers. This road is signposted as a dead end and will via slightly to the right and then to the left before you can see that the asphalt road finishes and leads onto a narrow track again. It must be noted here that the last house in the village, preceding the gravel track, has an extremely large dog outside. The dog is on a long chain and does bark ferociously as you pass the property so it is advisable to move as quickly as possible past this house.

On reaching the gravel track you will proceed through a flat, picon covered area with numerous low volcanic walls and abundant cacti. Bear right when you pass the house and then left, the trail is quite visible. You will then take your next left, all the time walking past these low walls and loose volcanic rocks. At the crossing, turn right and head towards the volcano, the track straight in front of you and is now wide enough to accommodate vehicles of the local farmers. At the shoulder high wall, cross through the opening and bear left following the wall around (11.5km, 2 hours 35 minutes). You can now see below you to your left, the cream coloured La Torrecilla that you encountered when you started the walk. The view from here is a sweeping one right down to the ocean and the east coast. The track runs parallel with this wall and at its corner you begin a gradual ascent up to your right. The trail you are wanting to follow actually begins at this corner, but on the other side of the wall so you need to follow it upwards until you find a place where you can cross over to the other side. Once on the other side, you need to turn left and follow the wall downwards to this point where you will soon notice to your right, the start of the track. This is a narrow, hunters trail, used by local men and their dogs hunting rabbits. Following it you find that you are now walking on the outer wall of Monte Corona. The ground is one of loose volcanic stones and picon, burnt red and brown in colour, and can be unsteady underfoot. This trail runs around the contours of the volcano about midway up its height. Care should be taken as you walk, as in some places, plants need to be negotiated that have sprung up in the middle of the trail. As you walk, you will notice that you are gradually descending the volcanoes face and the path eventually makes a turn to the left to take you down to its base. Care should be taken on this last part as the ground is very loose underfoot, a slow walk down sideways is a good way to tackle this part. When you reach the bottom, you will find yourself back on the trail that you took initially. Here, you turn right and make your way back through the small farm plots and open scrubland to the village which, on reaching the crest of the track, is visible ahead. On reaching the asphalt road at its end, head down into the village again, bearing right where you see the sign for the post office (Correos), Calle el Callejon, and at its end, a left back down to the church and your vehicle. (15.4km, 3 hours 25 minutes).

I hope that you enjoy this walk and the wonderful views that it offers, whichever option you choose to use for your return leg. Please feel free to leave a comment or sign up to either my RSS feed or email subscription list so that you are advised when new walks are added to the site. If you enjoyed this walk, then maybe you would also enjoy one on our neighbouring island of La Graciosa. Happy hiking

Caleta del Sebo – Playa las Conchas – Pedro Barba – Caleta del Sebo

Difficulty: Easy. Distance: Approximately 18km.

Duration: Approximately 3hrs 40 minutes.

Route: Circular. Car or Bus: Own transport or the local Arrecife bus route number 9. Ferry Timetables: Lineas Maritimas Romero & Biosfera Express

Essentials: Suitable clothing (depending on the time of year), walking shoes or trainers, water, suncream, mobile phone, snacks and/or picnic, swimwear, towel, hat.

This hiking adventure starts from the small fishing village of Orzola in the north of the island where you will catch one of the ferries making the 20 minute crossing from Lanzarote to its neighbouring island of La Graciosa. La Graciosa is one of a group of islets making up the ´Chinjio Archipielago´, the others being Alegranza, Montaña Clara, Roque del Este and Roque del Oeste. All of the islands make up the largest protected marine reserve in Europe, this also means no hotels and huge tourist areas. The journey is a short one along the northern tip of Lanzarote and across the straight to La Graciosa. This journey can, at times, be choppy along the first part.

The fishing village of Caleta del Sebo is where you will disembark. La Graciosa is free from tarmac roads, the only cars there are 4×4´s which are able to make it along the sandy tracks that criss cross the island. On arrival you will find an array of them available to take passengers to the beaches for a fee which will vary, depending on which side of the island you are looking to reach. Here in the village, you are also able to hire mountain bikes to explore on your own. The island measures 8km x 4km and houses some beautiful secluded beaches.

For us hikers, the walk will begin by turning left as you leave the boat where you will walk along the seafront path past Restaurant Girasol. As you walk along the path from the small port, you will also notice ´Speed River´water taxis which, again, can take visitors around to the beaches at a price of 6 euros, return, per person. On reaching the restaurant, take the track between it and the Cafeteria El Verol which is on your left. You will notice straight away as you walk through the village, that the roads are made of sand with local children running barefoot, a very quiet and tranquil place. As the road takes you out of the village you will pass, on your left, Residencial Graciosamar, offering apartments to rent if you feel like extending your stay further. On passing here, continue out of the village with the school to your right. After the school, take the track to your left heading inland. The trail is, as are most, wide enough to accommodate 4×4 vehicles.

As you walk up this trail, you will notice that the surrounding area is predominantly covered in sand dunes, with small, green shrub plants holding fast in their baron surroundings. To your right as you walk, you will can see Las Agujas, a huge  hill that covers a wide area of the island, looking as though it is made of marble with varying shades of browns, reds and sand coloured whites. You will also see as you proceed, small areas that have been cordened off into small, what look like individual allotments. Here local people have their own places where they are able to cultivate cacti, vegetables and, in some cases, fruit trees. Due to an available irrigation system, they are able to maintain these areas, adding splashes of green to this sand covered landscape.

As you glance over to your right, along the coast, you will catch a glimpse of the only other settlement on the island, Pedro Barba. After 3km of a gradual climb, you will pass a garden with a volcanic wall surrounding it to your right (35 minutes). A glance to your left will offer you a view of Montaña Amarilla, with its rich, yellow and gold colours, standing proud at the southern tip of the island. Take the time to turn backwards here, where  you can see the steep cliffs of the Risco de Famara of Lanzarote and the ominous peak of Monte Corona reaching to 609m.

As the trail reaches its summit, you will be afforded a glimpse of two of the other islands making up the ´Chinijo Archipielago´, Montaña Clara to your front, followed by the larger, and longer, Alegranza. As the track decends down towards the coast, you can stop and appreciate the view, with the crashing waves hitting the coastline below. As the path moves downwards, follow it until you see a trail baring off to the left, indicated by four wooden stumps 4.3km (50 minutes). The ground underfoot turns into one of sand and volcanic stones. Here the trail will guide you along, at sea level, towards the foot of the vibrant red coloured Montaña Bermeja. As you proceed, the ground underfoot will turn into sand, gradually becoming slightly deeper.

The coastal path gradually meanders through sand dunes where scrub plants flourish within them. As you proceed towards the beach, I must say, you will have to stop here to admire the view ahead. Black volcanic rocks at the shoreline, a white sand track leading to the equally white beach ahead, aquamarine waters lapping the shores and the dark, burnt red colour of the face of Montaña Bermeja to your right. Playa Las Conchas is the longest beach on the island and is so named due to the abundance of shells to be found here. Walk to the far end of the beach, 6.2km (1h 15 minutes), and take some time to sit and enjoy your surroundings, admire the view and listen to the therapeutic sound of the waves lapping at the shoreline. Once you have rested, continue up the hill face ahead where a clear track is visible. This short climb is steep and can be a little tough, depending upon the depth of the sand. As you reach the summit, you will see the island of Alegranza ahead of you. Follow the trail as it skirts around the foot of Montaña Bermeja to your right. Underfoot, you will notice that the white sand is now covered with a layer of dark red ´picon´, volcanic ash brought, over time, from the volcano itself.

The track gradually widens, making it accessible to jeeps, and slowly turns inland becoming one of sand again. Cross over the small chain fence ahead, 7.8km (1h 50 minutes), and when the track forks, bear left heading down towards the coast. You will notice here that small wooden posts are embedded into the ground at the sides of the trail with reflectors ontop to guide any cars at night. This track will take you down towards the coast where you will bear right. You will soon find yourself at the onset of a cove where the white sand stretches before you towards a beach. On the distant horizon out to sea you can see the solitary Roque del Oeste. From this beach there is access to the crystal clear ocean. As you walk up this track you will suddenly notice, predominantly to your left along the beach, the abundance of empty shells covering the hard sand surface as far as you can see. As you explore these sand dunes and white beaches, you will hear, on walking across these empty shells, a sound similar to that of walking on freshly fallen snow, a crunching beneath your feet. This track will bear left as you continue along the coastline and when it forks as you reach 12.2km take the left turn down towards the small village of Pedro Barba. As you gradually descend, notice ahead of you a the view back across the ocean, across the straight known as ´The River´, to Orzola along with the imposing cliff face of  Risco de Famara.

You will notice as you walk, a visible narrow path branching off to your right heading through the volcanic stone towards the outskirts of this small settlement. Take this path and head down into the village. It is very pretty here, whitewashed houses sit nestled amoungst palm trees with splashes of colour being given by the Hibiscus plants scattered around. You will soon find yourself on the sand covered sea front walkway which runs along the length of the village. There is a small bay with clear water and a white sandy beach. The water here is extremely calm, and is and ideal place for snorkeling or for a quick swim to cool off. Follow this sea front walk way in a southerly direction now out of village. You will find yourself being shown the route as small volcanic stones have been placed either side of the path. This track gradually becomes stoney underfoot as you begin to ascend up the side of a hill. You will now follow this coastal path along the side of the hillside  as it takes you back towards Caleta del Sebo. You will have a couple more chances as you follow this route, to have a quick dip in the ocean as there are several small coves to your left as you walk, which tend to be deserted. As you descend to sea level, the small track you are on meets a wider one, cross over and continue to follow the one marked with small volcanic stones along the coastline.

You will walk around a small bay, (15km, 3hrs 10 minutes) and find the marbled face of Las Agujas in the distance ahead of you. Bear left and continue along the coast where you are now able to see the outskirts of Caleta del Sebo ahead, with boat masts from the port visible above the buildings. As the trail ends, make your way back through the quiet village with its sandy roads towards the harbour, (3hrs 40 mins, 18km). Here then, you can take time to stop and sit in one of the small bars with a drink or enjoy a quick snack whilst admiring the view back across to Lanzarote and watching the local fishermen arrive back in their small boats, before taking the ferry back yourself.

I hope that you enjoy this walk and the wonderful views and scenery that it offers. If you would like to find out more about me and what I am doing here on the island of Lanzarote and its neighbours then please subscribe to my RSS feed so that you will receive posts as I add them to my blog. You may also feel like trying another walk in Lanzarote, maybe something in the north of the island… Enjoy

The village houses several restaurants, a favourite being Casa Emiliano. The restaurant itself is set back slightly from the road, and has a wonderful garden area in its front featuring rose bushes and a multitude of colourful flowers and plants. The outside terrace behind the garden is well shaded with some tables located under the cover of its wooden roof and others sitting under umbrellas providing welcome shade. The inside of the restaurant is very rustic with wooden tables and chairs in two rooms. We were lucky enough to get a table on the outer terrace where you can sit and see along the coast towards Montaña Roja close to Playa Blanca.

The menu isn´t extensive, but offers a good selection of plates to suit most tastes. Starters include soups and salads along with traditional Canarian specialities including gambas al ajillo (prawns with garlic) and papas arrugadas (Canarian wrinkly potatoes). Prices start from 4.20 euros.

The meat dishes include steaks, chicken and pork fillet along with more rural options including goat and rabbit. Prices start from 8.0 euros. Fish include local Cherne (white fish) along with king prawns and calamares (squid). Prices start from 8 euros.

The wine list features heavily on local wines from across the island. Prices start from 12 euros.

We both chose steaks, one with ´house sauce´which consisted of mushrooms, peppers and onions.The food here is rustic and very simple. The steaks are thick and juicy and came served with small roasted potatoes, a grilled tomato slice, a grilled onion slice and a couple of carrot pieces. Simple, yet delicious! Rounding off the afternoon with a coffee and a Baileys whilst watching the sun slowly setting is definately something I would recommend to any hiker, or non hiker for that matter. This restaurant with its extremely reasonable priced menu (please note credit cards are not accepted), friendly staff and fabulous views makes it a firm favourite here on the island to both locals and tourists alike.
Why not make your lunch stop during on of the walks here in the area?

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Papas Arrugadas

small new potatoes
course sea salt
water

1. Add the potatoes to a pan of very salty water (in the past Canarian´s used to use seawater).
2. The potatoes should float in the water, if they don´t add some more salt.
3. Bring to the boil and simmer for 25 minutes.
4. Drain off the majority of the water and reduce the heat to allow any liquid to evaporate.
5. Shake the pan to enable the salt to crysalise.
6. Turn off the heat and cover the potatoes with a tea towel for about five minutes to enable the potatoes to dry and turn ´wrinkly´.

Mojo Rojo (Red)

2-3 dried chillies (depending on how spicy you like it)
1 garlic bulb
200ml olive oil
150ml white wine vinegar
½ teaspoon of cumin
½ teaspoon of paprika
1 teaspoon of sea salt

1. Cover the chillies in boiling water and let them soak for an hour.
2. Peel the garlic cloves.
3. Place all the ingredients, except for the olive oil, into a food processor or blender and blend to form a paste.
4. Slowly mix in the olive oil with the motor still running.
5. Serve in a small bowl.

Mojo Verde (Green)

1 bulb of garlic
200ml olive oil
150mil white wine vinegar
1 handful of fresh coriander (cilantro)
½ teaspoon of cumin
1 teaspoon of sea salt

1. Peel the garlic cloves.
2. Add the garlic, cumin, sea salt and vinegar into a blender or food processor and mix into a paste.
3. Chop the coriander leaves.
4. Slowly add these and the olive oil into the paste.

I hope that you enjoy making this typical Canarian dish, please let me know how you get on

Haría – El Bosquecillo – Haría

Difficulty: Medium. Distance: 8.5km.
Duration: Approximately 2 hrs.

Route: Circular. Car or Bus: Own transport or  the local Arrecife Bus route numbers 26 & 27.

Essentials: Suitable clothing (depending on the time of year), sturdy walking shoes/boots, water, suncream, mobile phone, snacks and/or picnic, hat.

This walk begins in Haría, a village situated in the north of the island, an area known locally known as ´the valley of a thousand palms´. During the 17th and 18th centuries, locals had a  tradition of planting palm trees for every child born, one for a girl and two for a boy. It is best to approach the village from the north on the LZ10 from Los Valles where you will be offered amazing views of this tree filled Valle de Malpaso and the village of Haría from above. As you enter the village, via a long winding road down a steep cliff face, leave your car in its centre and head back in a westerly direction from here along Calle de la Longuera which, after crossing over a junction, becomes Calle Rincon de Aganda. This asphalt road will lead you out of the village, past whitewashed houses and towering palm trees. The village is very peaceful, the only sound today being the wind rustling through the palm fronds. The road soon becomes one of loose gravel as you leave the outskirts of the village where you will notice the local college over to your left. The track descends slightly before you come across the ruin of an old house ahead of you. At this point bear left and start walking gradually uphill. On both sides of the track are volcanic stone walls, and as you proceed up the valley you will notice that the earth on the surrounding hillsides is a burnt red colour, speckled with solitary palm trees. You will pass a flat faced metal marker featuring the number nine as you continue up the track towards three private residences nestled on the valley floor to your left.

As you begin a gradual ascent up the picon covered track, you will see to your left, a circular structure built out of volcanic stone housing citrus fruit trees, their green leaves protruding over the top of the wall adding a splash of colour to the dark, picon field where it is located. You can see on the valley sides, that volcanic walls that have been built horizontally across them around their curves, to prevent soil erosion during both the rainy and windy periods of the season. Ahead of you as you progress, you will see a volcanic wall with a small gap in it. As you reach this opening, step through  it onto  the rocky ground beyond (2km). Here, behind low volcanic walls, you have the most amazing panaramic view of the Atlantic ocean, to your left the steep faced Mirador, down to the beaches and village of Famara and along the coastline. Slightly inland, you can also make out the jagged rimmed volcano at Sóo.

From here, step back through the wall where ahead, you will be offered a view back down the valley where the village of Haría lies. Continue following the track to your right as it begins a gradual ascent. As you walk you will notice to your left, behind the ridge, the summit of Monte Corona, standing at 609m. As you progress you will come across a goat farm lower down the hillside to your left and when you glance down towards Haría you can catch a glimpse of  the ocean further behind on the east coast  The track bears right as you head along the side of the valley with low volcanic walls on either side of your path. As you look across the valley to your left, you will see the winding road that you descended down from the top of the Mirador de Haría. Soon you will pass to your left (2.1km), a small cluster of buildings and a group of palm trees. Here, to your right, there is an option to take a narrow track up the side of the mountain which is signposted with a small wooden arrow.

As you walk along the Malpaso Valley, you will notice ahead of you that its sides are scattered with pine trees and you will begin a gradual descent towards them. Here you will find yourselves at a cross roads (3.7km) where the right hand trail, signposted Barranco de Malpaso, heads upwards towards the base of these pines. Turn up this narrow gorge and being ascending the trail. This can become quite steep at times and rocky underfoot. There are small shrubs surrounding the track with lichen covered stones providing a pale green contrast to the sand coloured soil around. You can see to your right that bushes and trees have taken root in the gorge floor due to the water available here during rainy periods. You will notice also within the gorge that volcancic stones, held together with metal wire, form large blocks providing steps for any flowing water, even if this is a rare occurance. After climbing up the winding path along the gorge, you will come across a narrow road (4.2km) (56 mins). Cross over, and continue your ascent until you reach a volcanic stone wall where you turn right and progress along a wide dirt track. You are now reaching the summit of Montaña de Haría. To your left, you will notice bushes and shrubs along with seedlings, protected by plastic nets, and a scattering of wooden picnic benches. Meander along this dirt track until you reach a rough tarmac road. Cross over, stepping over a small wall, and continue to your left up a rocky hillside. Below you to your right is the vast expanse of the Atlantic ocean and seagulls glide on the air currents along the cliff below.

Ahead of you, you will notice the radar station perched high on the summit of the mountain. Within this area ahead of you are picnic benches and BBQ´s nestled between the shrubbery with some picnic benches being located closer to the edge of the cliff face. Here it is time for you to stop and relax for a while, enjoy the breathtaking view, and your picnic if you have chosen to bring one. Glancing along the coast to your right, you are offered a glimpse of our neighbouring island, La Graciosa, part of the Archipelago Chinijo, with its Montaña Amarilla glowing with deep yellow and red colours close to its southern coast.

To return, you need to follow your steps back down the way that you ascended, taking care not to slip on any loose rocks underfoot. The views back down the valley are extremely rewarding with Haría nestled at the bottom of the Malpaso Valley. On reaching the crossroads at the foot of the gorge, cross over the dirt track, and continue straight ahead down a few rocky steps. The rocky gorge continues as you descend,  meandering back down the valley, on occassion you can pick up the sweet aniseed scent of wild fennel as you walk. The path at times can be slightly overgrown on each side with these plants, shrubs and wild grasses but they are easily moved aside. Soon, to your left, you will see a small, wall enclosed vineyard (6.5km) (1hr 33mins) being, obviously, carefully maintained by its owner. The dusty track continues its descent turning into one of tarmac as you turn right, until you come to the onset of the village again with, on your right hand side, individual areas of vegetable plants and fresh geraniums.

As you stroll back into the village, you will notice the village football stadium to your right as you walk. Continue over the junction ahead, where you will see a phone box to your left. Take time as you stroll to admire the individual gardens infront of the whitewashed houses, some with fruit trees, others abundant in flowers. Bear left at the next junction (8.5km) (1hr 50mins) and continue along this road, meeting up again with Calle Rincon de Aganda. Turn right and make your way from here back to your car, enjoying the peace and tranquility of this, the ´valley of a thousand palms´.

I hope that you enjoy this walk and the wonderful views and scenery that it offers. If you would like to find out more about me and what I am doing here on the island then please subscribe to my RSS feed so that you will receive posts as I add them to my blog. You may also feel like trying another walk here in Lanzarote, maybe something in the south of the island? Enjoy

Fig Chutney

850g fresh figs
150ml balsamic vinegar
100ml red wine vinegar
300g soft brown sugar
zest & juice of 1 lemon
250g red onions
2 teaspoons of mixed spice
10g of fresh ginger OR 1 teaspoon of dried ground ginger
1 tablespoon of olive oil

Preparation time – 10 minutes
Cooking time – 1 hour
Serves – 3 jars

1. Preheat oven to gas mark 3, 160ºC. Firstly, sterilise your jam jars by washing them in hot soapy water, rinsing them and placing them into the oven for ten minutes. Remove and allow to cool.
2. Peel and thinly slice the red onion, peel and grate the fresh ginger (if using), remove stalks from the figs and cut them into quarters, zest and juice the lemon.
3. Heat the oil in a large pan over a medium heat, add the onions and fry for five minutes until softened.
4. Add all of the other ingredients except the figs, season with salt and pepper. Bring to the boil and then turn down the heat and allow to simmer for 30 minutes.
5. Once the liquid has reduced to a syrup, add the figs stiring them into the syrup and cook for a further fifteen minutes, stirring occassonally.
6. Pour chutney into sterilised jars, add lids and allow to cool.

Keeps for up to one month. Refrigerate once opened.

Situated on the main LZ30 road that runs from Uga to Teguise through the La Geria wine region of Lanzarote, Bodegas Stratus is the newest winery here on the island with an impressive, state of the art cellar covering an area of 2500 square metres. As you drive or walk in the area you will notice the bodegas two large red wine bottles indicating its car park and entrance.

The main house, has been meticulously transformed into a wine bar and gourmet shop as well as serving as a reception area where you are able to book your tour of the cellar which cost 10 euros per person. This price includes a 40 minute tour of the the production area and cellars followed by 20 minutes of wine tasting which is accompanied by a selection of local goats cheeses.

The gourmet shop offers a complete selection of their prestigious wines sold in two sizes of bottles, 50cl priced at 8 euros per bottle, and 75cl priced at 12 euros a bottle. The shop also offers a full selection of local goats cheeses produced by the Finca de Uga as well as more interesting gifts, including wine soaps and shower gels. Here there is a patio area with tables nestled under a large tree where you are able to sit with your glass of wine and admire the views across the surrounding vineyards.

The wine tour is extremely interesting and starts with an explaination of the process used to grow vines in such arid conditions. Deep circular pits are initially produced by camels dragging a small log behind them in a circle. The bottom of each pit contains a bed of 20cm´s of ´picon´, solidified volcanic ash, which is very porous. Individual vines are then planted in each pit, at a depth enabling their roots to find the soil beneath the picon. As small wall made of volcanic stone is then built around the circumference of the pit which enables moisture and dew to be retained within the area. The distance between each pit varies depending on the grape variety being grown.

Bodegas Stratus uses 20% of its own grape harvest to produce its selection of wines obtaining the other 80% from grape producers in the area. None of the grapes are imported from the mainland as this would mean that the wine could not feature the official ´Consejo Regulador de la Denominación de Origin Lanzarote´ sticker on the back of its bottles, a mark which signifies that the wine is a product of Lanzarote alone and that is has been produced in conformity with the relevant regulations.

Due to the layout out the vines, all harvesting is done by hand, this year starting at the beginning of August, with the farmers being provided with plastic crates to put their grapes in, each crate having a capacity to hold 18 kilos of fruit. By keeping the weight to a minimum in each, the quality of the grapes can be viewed quickly and any imperfections spotted.

On delivery, the grapes are taken into the cooling chamber that has a temperature ranging between 0 & 3 degrees celcius. Here it is fascinating to learn that the fruit is placed onto a conveyour belt monitored by two people, who remove any damaged grapes and destem them berry by berry. They then fall one by one onto a vibrating table where a pump is used to send the grapes on to both the pressing and fermentation process. Skins that are removed are then used for compost.

The sheer size of the fermentation tanks is extremely impressive, with silver coloured tanks glowing purple underneath the coloured lights. All temperature control is done using a touch screen computer system mounted on the wall.

160 different wine farms here on the island are used by Bodegas Stratus and before harvesting their onsite laboratory checks the quality and pH levels of the samples provided. This bodega is the only one at present with its own onsite lab with others having to send away for any testing needed.

Alcohol fermentation takes place in French and American oak vats enriching both the colour and the aroma of the wine. Oxygen penetrating through the pores of the wood help determine the colour of the wine, with oak wood giving the wine and aromatic and smooth final taste. The Bordeaux casks hold 225 litres with the larger vats holding up to 7000 litres of wine. These wooden casks are lightly burnt to add aroma to the wine and by using different types of tannin to the barrels,  it makes them suitable for the ageing of red wines, sweet liquers and dessert wines. The barrels are stored at 16 degrees celcius in a room with a ceiling made of volcanic rock which assists in keeping the barrels cool.

Althought the sweet Moscatel wines hold numerous hightly prestigious awards, the red wine produced by the bodega is now a main focus. Production of the red wine has only been in process since 2005 and with the wine having to go through two fermentation processes, with six months in the casks and a further six months settling in the bottles, it is still a very young wine compared to that of red wines from other parts of Europe.

The bottling plant has a capacity of 1.5 million bottles per year, and as of September this year, they had produced 350,000 bottles. Natural cork stoppers are used to seel the bottles topped with a cylican wax which preserves the outside of the cork and prevents air entering the bottle guaranteeing that the wine reaches the customer intact. The labels on the bottles refer directly to the native soil, to the unique landscape and winery´s special characteristics. They also give a summary about each type of wine on the back label, its name, type, year of vintage, alcohol content etc. The bottles are packed in boxes of six and are shipped onto restaurants here on the island, to Las Palmas in Gran Canaria and resorts and private residents in mainland Spain. They do have a German retailler and retail in the United Kingdom is now under negotiation.

On leaving the cellars you are then taken on to your wine tasting. Ours took place in the outdoor  La Teraza Grill restaurant, which is open every day from 11am – 4.30pm, except Monday´s. Their menu offers typical Canarian dishes and here  you can sit and relax whilst admiring the surrounding shrubs and plants in an extremely tranquil setting.

All in all, a stop at Bodegas Stratus is both informative and enjoyable. The attention to detail, from the shining glasses, the floating candles on tabletops and the pristine plants and flowers in its garden areas, is unsurpassable and with their wines being extremely palatable, you will no doubt find yourself leaving with a bottle or two for enjoyment on your own terrace.

Wine tours – Monday – Sunday, by reservation, 10 euros per person.

Gourmet shop – Open everyday from 10.00 – 18.00

La Terraza Grill Restaurant – Open everyday except Monday´s.

Tel:- 928 809 977

Montaña Negra – Parque de los Volcanes – La Geria – Montaña Negra

Difficulty: Easy. Distance: Linear: 7km, Circular: 13.2km.

Duration: Linear: Approximately 2hrs, Circular: Approximately 3hrs.

Route: Linear or Circular.

Car: Own transport. If you choose to opt for the linear option of this walk, TWO vehicles will be needed or alternative transport used to return you to your one vehicle.

Taxi: Yaiza taxi (who cover this area) 928 52 42 22

Essentials: Suitable clothing (depending on the time of year), sturdy walking shoes/boots, water, suncream, mobile phone, snacks and/or picnic, hat.

This walk commences in a small carpark close to Moñtana Negra just outside the village of Masdache. It is located along the LZ30 which is the main road through the wine region of La Geria, from Uga to Monumento Al Campesino. You will notice the building, pictured left, opposite the carpark. As you park here, you can see the vivid, burnt red coloured Caldera Colorada standing behind the black faced Moñtana Negra, a splash of colour in an otherwise dark landscape.

Leave your vehicle here and begin your walk along the road, back in the direction of Uga with this building to your left. You will notice waist high dry stone walls along the edge of the road. You can at this time catch glimpses of the jagged open crater of Moñtana del Cuervo to your right. In front of the second wall, you will see a wooden post indicating a track leading off to your right. As you take this track downwards, you reach an area of characteristic circular walled pits (´zocos´) each containing a vine plant. This dry cultivation known as ´enarenado´are how the vineyards of Lanzarote are uniquely planted. Water is precious on the island with there being little rainfall, and volcanic sand makes it difficult for plants to take root. To combat this problem, a circle of volcanic rock is built around each vine, allowing for enough dew to settle each morning to keep the vine alive. These plants are painstakingly maintained by the grape farmers before being farmed and sold on to the islands ´Bodegas´(wine producers) who themselves then go on to produce the wine.

As you look behind you, you will see, in an elevated position, two circular ruins built from volcanic rock. Double back on yourself and head in this direction. You will see a dark coloured trail running over the lichen covered, solidified lava close to the ruin on your left. The trail is well worn and is easy to trace due to the stark contrast in colour between it, and the paler colour of the surrounding rocks. The trail meanders gradually downwards towards the base of Moñtana Negra whose blackened face stands ahead. Glances to your left will give you a view of an extremely impressive, volcano filled landscape. The trail soon joins a dirt track where you will need to turn left. There are wooden indicator markers at this point coloured with yellow and white and the figures PR LZ40.

As your turn left and follow the dirt track you will see the scrub covered] mountain face to your right, and a sharp, lichen covered volcanic rocks to your left. As the track progresses you are offered remarkable views of the volcanoes that lie ahead. The dark Moñtana del Cuervo with its gaping crater standing alone ahead of its red and orange coloured neighbours. Underfoot, the dirt track soon turns to one of picon as you make your way through this completely silent, baron landscape. The track rises and falls gradually and to your right you will notice a small, whitewashed building sitting at the foot of the mountain. You can see that around it, green plants have taken root giving a splash of colour to the area. On closer inspection, you will see that this small, roofless building houses a natural well into which you are able to lower a plastic bottle and draw water for yourself. At this point, with the well on your right, you need to turn left and head towards the road which passes though the Parque de los Voclanos. When you reach the road, just before the two roadside markers that indicate that you are crossing into the Municiplo of Tias, cross over and continue towards the looming crater of Moñtana Cuervo (392m) opposite.

We will be turning left at the first wooden marker post ahead. However, it is possible for you to continue on this trail to the volcano itself, where you are able to stroll around its base as well as into the depths of its crater. On turning left, the trail gradually rises and falls as you make your way eastwards where on your left you will see Moñtana Peña Palomas. As you pass its base, you can see several high, volcanic dry stone walls which have been built to provide protection for the fig trees that grow behind them. During the summer months, figs grow abundantly here with the trees being provided ideal conditions by the climate of the island. Figs require sun all day to ripen palatable fruits and this location seems to be ideal to suit this purpose.

Over to your right, across a vast expanse of solidified lava, you can see the onset of Timanfaya National Park, its volcanic peaks coloured with shades of greys, blacks, deep reds and oranges. Ahead of you to the left, you can make out the distinctive circular outines of individual vines being cultivated. This is the beginning of La Geria, one of the largest wine producing regions of the island. The trail decsends at his point and here, on your right, you will pass a flattened area, surrounded by a wall, used for vegetable growing. On your left, at the top of a hill, you can see a private residence with large trees outside, the owners of which are offered spectacular views of the area. Bear right after the walled area and head towards the picon covered hill ahead. You will pass a small white buidling on your left and a wild cactus area to your right whose spikey fruits are coloured raspberry pink. The path bears right around the base of the hill where you will find two large fig trees sheltering at its foot.

It is at these two trees that you will need to bear left and continue where you will see a small brick outhouse on your right. The track here is slightly elevated above vine cultivations on both the right and the left with the hill face on your left being speckled with fig trees. The end of the track here meets the LZ30 road again where you will need to turn right passing the roadside markers indicating that you are entering the Municiplo of Yaiza. Lower down to your right you can see a large private residence and on becoming parrallel with this, as the road bears left, you need to take the trail downwards infront of you on the bend. At this point you are offered a sweeping view across La Geria, with its individual Bodegas dotted amoungst the thousands of individual vines. As far as they eye can see from this slightly elevated position you can observe the sheer number of small, volcancic pits each containing a vine. Follow the trail straight ahead towards the foot of the hill passing vines on your left and right. You will come across another wooden marker where you will need to turn left and head towards two towering palm trees, one of which has lost its fronds. As you look to your left you can see two bodegas located almost opposite each other, on the far side of the road Bodegas Stratus and opposite Bodegas Suarez. The trail passes several houses, and you will then need to turn right after the last house.

You will now walk through further vineyards with the gravel like picon crunching underfoot. Again, you will notice another wooden marker, and should turn left here, taking the track that leads towards the road and two further Bodegas, on the far side of the road Bodegas Rubicon and opposite Bodegas La Geria. There is also the restaurant of El Chupadero up the track ahead. (7km) If you have opted for a linear walk, this is where you can collect your second car or telephone for a local taxi to take you back to your vehicle.

Follow this track uphill where you will be walking with picon, in some places slightly deep, underfoot. To your right as you climb is Caldera del Galda, a volcanic crater rising to 567 metres. At the summit of the track, with a private residence to your left, you will rewarded with an amazing view. Ahead to the left, you can see Moñtana Negra and its red faced neighbour Caldera Colrada, ahead in the far distance Monte Guanapay in Teguise with the castle on its top and behind the sprawling vineyards of La Geria with its Bodegas overlooked by the distant volcanoes of Timanfaya National Park.

Gradually descend down the track and bear left as it forks. The trail narrows and weaves its way through sunken vines as you head towards the road ahead. On reaching the road, you need to turn left and head down towards the T junction. On reaching it, cross over and follow the trail ahead will its volcanic dry stone walls on either side. You will pass a small house on your left as the trail winds its way to the right. You will notice the residence at the top of the hill as noted in the outgoing journey. As the path straightens out you will see ahead of you a trail leading upwards through the solidified lava, take this trail as opposed to continuing on the dirt track. Again, it is clearly visible amidst the green, lichen covered volcanic rocks. As you follow this track through the lunar landscape, you will find yourself again at the base of Moñtana Peña Palomas where you will need to bear right enabling you to rejoin your outgoing trail again passing the walled fig trees. As you head back across the baron landscape you will again be greeted by the jagged topped Moñtana del Cuervo with its steep sided crater. If you have time, you could take a moment on the return leg to go and explore the volcano itself. Again, as with the outgoing track, you need to head back towards the road and cross over, aiming again the for small, whitewashed building of the natural well, where you will turn right and begin to meander back along the trail towards your awaiting vehicle. (13.2km)

If you choose the linear walk option, you will leave to leave one of your vehicles in the carpark of Bodegas Geria, on the LZ30 road towards the village of Uga.

This walk commences in a small carpark close to Moñtana Negra just outside the village of Masdache. It is located along the LZ30 which is the main road through the wine region of La Geria, from Uga to Monumento Al Campesino. You will notice a white building spotted with visible stones, in a slightly elevated position on the right hand side as you approach Masdache. Opposite is a small, gravel carpark. As you park here, you can see the vivid, burnt red coloured Caldera Colorada standing behind the black faced Moñtana Negra,a splash of colour in an otherwise dark landscape.

Leave your vehicle here and begin your walk along the road, back in the direction of Uga with this building to your left. You will notice waist high dry stone walls along the edge of the road. You can at this time catch glimpses of the jagged open crater of Moñtana del Cuervo to your right. In front of the second wall, you will see a wooden post indicating a track leading off to your right. As you take this track downwards, you reach an area of characteristic circular walled pits (´zocos´) each containing a vine plant. This dry cultivation known as ´enarenado´are how the vineyards of Lanzarote are uniquely planted. Water is precious on the island with there being little rainfall, and volcanic sand makes it difficult for plants to take root. To combat this problem, a circle of volcanic rock is built around each vine, allowing for enough dew to settle each morning to keep the vine alive. These plants are painstakingly maintained by the grape farmers before being farmed and sold on to the islands ´Bodegas´(wine producers) who themselves then go on to produce the wine.

As you look behind you, you will see, in an elevated position, two circular ruins built from volcanic rock. Double back on yourself and head in this direction. You will see a dark coloured trail running over the lichen covered, solidified lava close to the ruin on your left. The trail is well worn and is easy to trace due to the stark contrast in colour between it, and the paler colour of the surrounding rocks. The trail meanders gradually downwards towards the base of Moñtana Negra whose blackened face stands ahead. Glances to your left will give you a view of an extremely impressive, volcano filled landscape. The trail soon joins a dirt track where you will need to turn left. There are wooden indicator markers at this point coloured with yellow and white and the figures PR LZ40.

As you turn left and follow the dirt track you will see the scrub covered] mountain face to your right, and a sharp, lichen covered volcanic rocks to your left. As the track progresses you are offered remarkable views of the volcanoes that lie ahead. The dark Moñtana del Cuervo with its gaping crater standing alone ahead of its red and orange coloured neighbours. Underfoot, the dirt track soon turns to one of picon as you make your way through this completely silent, baron landscape. The track rises and falls gradually and to your right you will notice a small, whitewashed building sitting at the foot of the mountain. You can see that around it, green plants have taken root giving a splash of colour to the area. On closer inspection, you will see that this small, roofless building houses a natural well into which you are able to lower a plastic bottle and draw water for yourself. At this point, with the well on your right, you need to turn left and head towards the road which passes though the Parque de los Voclanos. When you reach the road, just before the two roadside markers that indicate that you are crossing into the Municiplo of Tias, cross over and continue towards the looming crater of Moñtana Cuervo (392m) opposite.

We will be turning left at the first wooden marker post ahead. However, it is possible for you to continue on this trail to the volcano itself, where you are able to stroll around its base as well as into the depths of its crater. On turning left, the trail gradually rises and falls as you make your way eastwards where on your left you will see Moñtana Peña Palomas. As you pass its base, you can see several high, volcanic dry stone walls which have been built to provide protection for the fig trees that grow behind them. During the summer months, figs grow abundantly here with the trees being provided ideal conditions by the climate of the island. Figs require sun all day to ripen palatable fruits and this location seems to be ideal to suit this purpose.

Over to your right, across a vast expanse of solidified lava, you can see the onset of Timanfaya National Park, its volcanic peaks coloured with shades of greys, blacks, deep reds and oranges. Ahead of you to the left, you can make out the distinctive circular outines of individual vines being cultivated. This is the beginning of La Geria, one of the largest wine producing regions of the island. The trail decsends at his point and here, on your right, you will pass a flattened area, surrounded by a wall, used for vegetable growing. On your left, at the top of a hill, you can see a private residence with large trees outside, the owners of which are offered spectacular views of the area. Bear right after the walled area and head towards the picon covered hill ahead. You will pass a small white buidling on your left and a wild cactus area to your right whose spikey fruits are coloured raspberry pink. The path bears right around the base of the hill where you will find two large fig trees sheltering at its foot.

It is at these two trees that you will need to bear left and continue where you will see a small brick outhouse on your right. The track here is slightly elevated above vine cultivations on both the right and the left with the hill face on your left being speckled with fig trees. The end of the track here meets the LZ30 road again where you will need to turn right passing the roadside markers indicating that you are entering the Municiplo of Yaiza. Lower down to your right you can see a large private residence and on becoming parrallel with this, as the road bears left, you need to take the trail downwards infront of you on the bend. At this point you are offered a sweeping view across La Geria, with its individual Bodegas dotted amoungst the thousands of individual vines. As far as they eye can see from this slightly elevated position you can observe the sheer number of small, volcancic pits each containing a vine. Follow the trail straight ahead towards the foot of the hill passing vines on your left and right. You will come across another wooden marker where you will need to turn left and head towards two towering palm trees, one of which has lost its fronds. As you look to your left you can see two bodegas located almost opposite each other, on the far side of the road Bodegas Stratus and opposite Bodegas Suarez. The trail passes several houses, and you will then need to turn right after the last house.

You will now walk through further vineyards with the gravel like picon crunching underfoot. Again, you will notice another wooden marker, and should turn left here, taking the track that leads towards the road and two further Bodegas, on the far side of the road Bodegas Rubicon and opposite Bodegas La Geria. There is also the restaurant of El Chupadero up the track ahead. (7km) If you have opted for a linear walk, this is where you can collect your second car or telephone for a local taxi to take you back to your vehicle.

However, if you wish to take the circular option, you will need to turn left here and walk along the road passing the Bodegas Suarez on your left and the newer Bodgeas Stratus on your right. Just past this second Bodega, where the road bends to the left, you will notice on the right hand side a track which heads gradually uphill past a small outbuilding on the corner.

Follow this track uphill where you will be walking with picon, in some places slightly deep, underfoot. To your right as you climb is Caldera del Galda, a volcanic crater rising to 567 metres. At the summit of the track, with a private residence to your left, you will rewarded with an amazing view. Ahead to the left, you can see Moñtana Negra and its red faced neighbour Caldera Colrada, ahead in the far distance Monte Guanapay in Teguise with the castle on its top and behind the sprawling vineyards of La Geria with its Bodegas overlooked by the distant volcanoes of Timanfaya National Park.

Gradually descend down the track and bear left as it forks. The trail narrows and weaves its way through sunken vines as you head towards the road ahead. On reaching the road, you need to turn left and head down towards the T junction. On reaching it, cross over and follow the trail ahead will its volcanic dry stone walls on either side. You will pass a small house on your left as the trail winds its way to the right. You will notice the residence at the top of the hill as noted in the outgoing journey. As the path straightens out you will see ahead of you a trail leading upwards through the solidified lava, take this trail as opposed to continuing on the dirt track. Again, it is clearly visible amidst the green, lichen covered volcanic rocks. As you follow this track through the lunar landscape, you will find yourself again at the base of Moñtana Peña Palomas where you will need to bear right enabling you to rejoin your outgoing trail again passing the walled fig trees. As you head back across the baron landscape you will again be greeted by the jagged topped Moñtana del Cuervo with its steep sided crater. If you have time, you could take a moment on the return leg to go and explore the volcano itself. Again, as with the outgoing track, you need to head back towards the road and cross over, aiming again the for small, whitewashed building of the natural well, where you will turn right and begin to meander back along the trail towards your awaiting vehicle. (13.2km)

I hope that you enjoy this walk, please leave me a comment as and when you try it out and let me know what you think, it would be nice to hear from you. If you would like to try another, why not try a coastal walk on the east coast? Why not find out what I am doing here on the island, and sign up to my RSS link so that you will get regular updates when I post further walks?

Costa Teguise – Los Cocoteros – Charco del Palo

Difficulty: Easy. Distance: 10km.
Duration: Approximately 3hrs 30 minutes.

Route: Linear. Car: Own transport. For this particular walk, TWO vehicles will be needed. Bus: Local bus Arrecife bus routes number 7 and 9 both stop in the village of Mala. Taxi: Teguise taxi (who cover this area) 928 845533.

Essentials: Suitable clothing (depending on the time of year), sturdy walking shoes/boots, water, suncream, mobile phone, snacks and/or picnic, hat, swimwear and snorkel (optional).

Before commencing this coastal hike, you will need to leave one vehicle in the small village of Charco del Palo on the eastern side of the island. This small village is located on the coast, behind the village of Mala. On entering Mala, heading in a northerly direction, you need to turn right at the ´Don Quijote´ restaurant and follow the winding road down to the village. Park your car in the car park situated on the right and then head, in your second car, back to Costa Teguise, where you will need to park in the car park at the Los Charcos beach. This is located next to the Melia Salinas hotel.

Alternatives to this include the option to take the local bus back to Costa Teguise from the village of Mala. The walk finishes in Charco del Palo, and it would mean an additional 45 minute walk up the winding road from here to Mala as the bus does not go down to Charco del Palo. Another option, would be to telephone a local taxi from their rank in Teguise and have them come and collect you. It can´t be guaranteed, however, that the local drivers will speak English. If you are a resident and have a friend or colleague with their own vehicle, maybe they wouldn´t mind coming to fetch you once you have finished.

The walk heads in a northerly direction from here, around the small bay with its white sand and calm waters. You will pass the holiday accommodation of Las Arenas and Sands Beach Club as well as two old windmills, the first still supporting its blue and white metals sails, the second now reduced to merely its wooden frame. Here you will leave the resort behind you and follow the trail towards a solitary house overlooking the ocean. Bear left on the soon visable dirt track, and then turn right though an entrance in the dry stone wall which is indicated by a metal marker post displaying the number 9. This dirt road, which is accessible to vehicles, passes by several houses before bearing right, again indicated by a number 9 marker (1km). You will notice on turning here that, to the right of the dirt road, there is a track running parallel to it. Leave the dirt road and take this trail instead. Soon, you will find yourself ascending a small rocky mound where the stones are loose in places underfoot.

At the summit, you will notice ahead a large flattened area which is often used for camping, and a small bay to your right where you can see fisherman standing on its rocky boundaries poised to reel in their catches. They seem completely relaxed in this quiet place with the only sound coming from the gentle lapping of the small waves over the pebbles of the shore. Ahead, you will notice the track zig zagging up another ridge where you will, on reaching the top, join a coastal path. To your right at floor level you will notice the first of many square concrete markers along this trail used as measuring points for maps etc. To your left you will notice the small settlement of Los Ancones whose inhabitants have been provided with a stone stairway into the ocean enabling them to enter and bathe in the tranquil waters with ease. You will also see small wooden fishing boats moored in this quiet bay.

This old goat track continues to ascend and descend along the coast offering spectacular ocean views to your right. In places the water is exceptionally clear and shimmers in shades of turquoise and aquamarine. After approximately 3km you will notice an elevated ridge on your left topped with a stone beacon. A climb up here affords you views to the west including the Castillo de Santa Barbára atop Mount Guanapay in Teguise, the wind turbines spinning methodically in Los Valles, the spherical radar of the military base at Haria and in a northerly direction, the two coastal villages of first, Los Cocoteros and secondly Charco del Palo. Inland, behind the first village, you are offered a glimpse of the top of Monte Corona which is one of the islands highest volcanoes standing at 605m.

The rocks underfoot change in colour as you proceed moving from blacks, to browns to oranges and, in some areas, the ground appears to glitter in the sunlight due to the red coloured sand and salt that has weathered away their stark blackness (4km). The land flattens out to your left and becomes a plateau where you find yourself walking at almost sea level (4.5km). You will descend and cross over a shallow area where you will see a small pebble cove to your right. The track turns again into a dirt road (5.1km), giving access to the coast for local fishermen and to the inhabitants of the group of houses that you are now walking towards. As you glance over to your left, you can see the green tips of several cactus plantations housed behind volcanic stone walls. You will pass on your left a very high wall made of volcanic rocks protecting the land behind from the elements of the ocean. On reaching the houses, the track continues downwards from the corner of the last house. From this point, you will now be seeing a large, red dust area sitting in front of a pebble beach and wide cove.

Follow the track down and cross infront of the ocean, following the curve of the bay, towards an old disused ´salina´, a traditional method of extracting salt from sea water. On rounding the bend, the trail will lead you to the first of the two villages on this route, Los Cocoteros. You will find yourself in a small carpark and, on your right, you will see an enclosed bay with a small ramp which enables local people to bring their boats and jetski´s. There is also a flat wooden area where you can lie and soak up the sun before taking a dip in the crystal clear water. As you cross over the car park, you will be confronted by what seems from a distance to be small mounds of bright white snow! (7.1km). This is infact a functioning salina, ´Salinas de Tío Alberto, and on closer inspection, you will see small square salt flats containing rose coloured, crystalising sea salt. Once it has crystalised in the heat of the sun, it is then raked up, by hand, into the piles that you see around the site. I will be writing a more detailed post about the salt industry here on the island at a later date.

Pass the salinas and follow the coastal path towards the village. The village itself is very quiet and has an abundance of palm trees shading the houses. The path passes infront of these sea front properties and up several steps before continuing along the coast towards four further houses. You will find that the trail passes at the side of the last house on the left hand side, again bearing a marker post featuring the number 9. Behind these houses, the track climbs gradually and on your right hand side you will see what can only be described as a naturally formed swimming pool where the ocean has carved its way through the volcanic rock and has produced a circular swimming area with an archway leading out to the open ocean. After this point, the track turns from volcanic stone to white sand as you continue a gradual ascent, bearing right along the coast (8.6km). You will pass a shell encrusted cross erected in memory of a loved one facing out over the great ocean expanse. Here you will now notice Charco del Palo coming into view.

Charco del Palo (10km) is a nudist colony so, as you pass in front of the coastal properties and admire the crystal ocean waters for swimming, don´t be alarmed to find that most of the residents of this village are naked. The snorkelling and swimming opportunities in this village are amazing and it is a popular site for scuba diving. If you left you swimwear in your second car parked here, I can strongly recommend snorkelling in the bay in the middle of the village. There are steps to assist you in getting in and out of the water and the sheer number of fish here is breathtaking.

Please let me know how you enjoyed this walk, and why not try another? This one offers amazing views and is in the south of the island.

Now that you have discovered me here, please come further and find out about me and what I am doing here on Lanzarote.

Until next time, happy hiking!

Mancha Blanca – Caldera Blanca – Mancha Blanca

Difficulty: Medium. Distance: 12km.
Duration: Approximately 3 hours.

Route: Circular. Car or Bus: Own transport or the local Arrecife bus route number 16 .

Essentials: Suitable clothing (depending on the time of year), sturdy walking shoes/boots, water, suncream, mobile phone, snacks and/or picnic, hat, walking poles & binoculars (if you have them).

Warning: This walk is not recommended to those who are afraid of heights, or who suffer from vertigo. This walk can be windy at times as there is no shelter as you walk around the rim of the crater. Although it is not hazardous, extra care should be taken. The start of this walk, begins on the outskirts of the village of Mancha Blanca, at the northern side of Timanfaya National Park. If you are arriving by public bus, you will need to alight here in the village. There is a road which is signposted to Timanfaya National Park and Yaiza (LZ67) with a small football arena and running track on its corner. Whether driving or walking, you will need to proceed down this road. If you are driving, there is a carpark that you can use at the start of the trail. As you leave the village, you will come across a road leading off to your right and dirt track proceeding straight ahead towards the volcanoes which are clearly in view. You will need to take this track up to the small carpark where you will find a signpost referring to the walk.

The three peaks in front of you are the red coloured Montaña Calderata (322m), the white coloured Caldera Blanca (458m) and the brown coloured Risco Quebrado (312m). These three volcanoes make up a so called ´Islote´, an island within the sea of solidified lava. Caldera Blanca was formed between 3000 and 5000 years ago and during the Timanfaya eruptions, which took place between 1730 and 1736, this´Islote´was able to protect some of the farmland which heads out towards the coast. This land is still utilised now by local farmers. Due to the age of Caldera Blanca´s rock, thousands of years of erosion have made this volcano seem white against the surroundings of the newer, blacker solidified lava, giving it its name ´White Crater´. It is one of the few volcanoes on the island that you are permitted to climb.

The track that you will follow is clearly marked within the jagged volcanic rock of its surroundings. The path has been dug out of this solidified lava and now has a floor of larger, rounded pebble like, volcanic stones for you to walk over. The sound of walking on these stones resembles walking along a pebble beach at low tide. This track meanders through the lava field, where you will note that in various places, hardy green coloured lichens have covered the surfaces of these dry rocks. These lichens are one of the first plants species to have managed to adapt to the dry and hostile environment of this area, and although green in colour they are very dry and brittle when touched.

After 1.5km walking along this path, the volcanic stone underfoot is replaced by dry, reddish dust as you approach the foot of first of the three volcanoes. The first is Caldera Blanca´s lower neighbour La Caldereta. As you circle its base, you will notice that the path forks and, on taking a detour to the left, you are able to reach the rim of this crater. You will notice to your left, small derelict buildings used by goat farmers in the past. Returning back along the trail, you now bear left and continue towards to foot of Caldera Blanca through a further lava field. As you approach its base you will notice that the track bears left towards three animal pens whose walls are built from of volcanic stone. Turn left here. If the animals have, at that time, not been let out to graze, you will get to see an array of goats and a friendly white donkey.

The path bears left here, past the goat pens, and begins a gradual climb upwards. During some stages, the trail here is not clearly marked, and often seems as though you are walking in a shallow trench caused by previous rainfall, but after about five minutes you will notice to your right two small piles of stones indicating the start of the trail which will lead you gradually up the side of the volcano towards the rim of the crater. This is not a difficult climb as the path takes you diagonally across the face of the volcano´s wall walking again within small rainfall gullies. However, with there being a drop to your right as you climb this, as stated, would not be advisable for any person suffering from vertigo.

As your reach the summit of this trail you will be both amazed and in awe of the scene in front of you. Caldera Blanca is the largest crater here on the island, measuring 1200m across, and is perfectly circular with high walls, completely breathtaking. From this point, in a southerly direction, you will notice the summit of Risco Quebrado standing next to the furthest rim of the crater. Behind you, you will have a view across the lava flow towards the ocean and back towards the village of Mancha Blanca. To your left, in a northerly direction, you will have an aerial view of Montaña Calderata. You should bear left now and begin your ascent of the craters rim. The path here is approximately 3 metres wide and so there are no directly visable steep drops on either side.

Progressing up this path, you will be afforded views towards the north east which include the volcano at Soo, the old capital of the island Teguise, where the Castillo de Santa Barbára stands behind on Mount Guanapay, and the imposing ´Risco de Famara´ with its 15km long cliff face, one of the two mountain ranges here on the island, standing guard behind the beach of Famara. When you do reach the summit of the crater, approximately 6km into the walk, you will be rewarded views across Timanfaya National Park featuring its impressive cones, craters and jagged rimmed volcanoes. Here, at the wooden marker post, you can sit for a while and enjoy the fruits of your labour, in a place of absolute silence.

The descent is a matter of choice. You can either continue around the rim of the crater to the point where you arrived or merely follow the path back that you have just taken. Whichever way you choose, the views are extremely impressive to the end.

I hope that you enjoy this walk when you complete it. Please feel free to leave a comment as and when you do.

Now that you have found this page, please come further and find out about me and what I am doing here on Lanzarote.