Australian Wine Review

NZ's Dry River - not so dry?

2012-01-25T00:00:00.000+11:00

NZ's Dry River - not so dry?

Caution - wine wankery/vineyard trainspotting ahead. Tune out now if bored by such geekiness. I'm highlighting this here as it sparked much debate and the response is an excellent one.

Everyone loves a bit of a scandal. Or even just a whiff of a scandal. Clearly I do (and have too much time on may hands) as my interest was piqued when I read this article recently in the Dominion Post:

'Pinot Pioneer Neil McCallum retires'

What actually caught my eye though was this line:

'..there's no sign of a harvesting machine or a bottling machine for that matter. While other vineyards typically boast irrigation systems, Dry River doesn't have a hose or tap in sight, believing that drier vines give more intense wine flavours.'

To most people it wouldn't mean much, except for the fact that the eagle eyed (wine nerds. My hand is up) would have spotted some black hoses in the photo of Neil that looks suspiciously like irrigation lines (the white arrows point to them in the image below. Image derived from here)...

So intriguing (to me at least) where those black hoses then that I put the question out on twitter.

'Is it just me or are those irrigation lines in this photo of Dry River?'

Suffice to say that, considering we are talking about Dry River, most people thought that it couldn't be an irrigation system. Several suggested it could have been rolled up bird netting, others that it might be for fertigation, others still that for watering the gardens nearby. It sparked much debate...

Ultimately though there was only one way to settle whether they were indeed irrigation lines. To go straight to the source. So I asked Dry River themselves.

I'm really thankful then for the new Dry River viticulturist Robert Wills for providing a response (and allowing me to publish it here), particularly given the context of the vineyard.

Why the impact of this response? Why is this newsworthy? Because I emailed back in December and only got a response now and honestly didn't expect to get one. Because historically Dry River has been something of a closed door operation, the veritable cult winery of Martinborough (of sorts) and something of an enigma. A vineyard that has no cellar door and operates largely via a closed mailing list. An operation that has mystique and intrigue and produces wines that are special (or at least I belive so).

In an Australian context the best example I can think of is Wendouree, yet obviously without the strange crayon colours on the mailing list order forms (and more than just a fax machine to communicate with). Dry River is, like Wendouree, one of the pioneers of the region (with the old vines to match) and is renowned for not only for the artfully made wines produced but also the meticulous, super precision viticulture practised (have a read of Jamie Goode's article here for an appreciation).

For anyone interested in 'dry' viticulture then this response is worth a read. It really is the very pointy end of wine production...

'Thanks for your email and the very good question that you have asked. I should also say "well spotted that man"!

Anyway, to your question about irrigation at the Dry River vineyards. We do not irrigate our cropping vines. We do however install drip irrigation for new plantings, and leave those lines in place for the first four years of the young vines life. The photo referred to shows Neil McCallum with our new Pinot Gris block in the background and as observed, the visible irrigation lines don't match the newspaper article's line that "Dry River doesn't have a hose or tap in sight".

This Pinot Gris block was planted following the removal of our old original Sauvignon Blanc vines. Our policy in the first year of a vine's life is to see that they have adequate soil moisture to survive. In the next year we follow a similar routine but moderate it depending on the season and the status of the vines.

It's worth noting that Martinborough is in one of the driest regions in New Zealand and so the risk of young vine failure is a very real one here. The block in question has not had any irrigation this season (and won't), and I don't believe it had any last year either. In 2011 we picked 400 kgs off that block of 1.16 acres and in 2012 we expect the handsome total of about 1 tonne!

That particular block was replanted over two years so vines there are four and five years old. For most vineyard operations these days, a cropping regime of less than 1 tonne/acre off five year old vines would be a recipe for ruin, but then Dry River has always been"a bit different".

I compare that approach to a situation I had in Australia,where I worked for many years. In a new Shiraz block we took a 1.5 tonne/acre crop off in the vine's second year and the winery paid us a quality bonus!

Back to the photo and associated article. We have 43,225 metres of row length at Dry River. The now redundant irrigation lines cover 1,881 metres, ie 4.3% of the total area.

We care about and for our vines because wecare about making good wine. So we particularly look after our"youngsters". Looking at that block this season, I think that we are going to have some very nice fruit. But then, only time will tell.'
Robert Wills, 16th January

Wolf Blass range

2012-01-24T01:14:00.000+11:00

Wolf Blass Platinum
Flashy. That's Chris Hatcher standing in behind
there (in front of the view of the bridge).

Wolf Blass range

'Better than I thought'.

That's the impression I came away with after this tasting of the latest releases from the Wolf Blass range. Admittedly we're still talking about utterly commercial, price-point focused wines (and the scores reflect that), yet there remained more than a few surprises in amongst the wines.

What was most interesting actually was just how much stronger the whites were than the reds (except for the very top end), a reflection perhaps of some stronger recent vintages but also just how old fashioned and classically over wrought the Wolf Blass red wine style can be. Obviously the winemakers are reluctant to mess with the style that made Wolf famous (and it still works on Black Label etc) but less oak, less added acid and more restraint would be quite welcome...

As for this tasting I will freely admit that the Wolf Blass house style is not my preference, a bias which may well lower the scores - you be the judge. I deliberately aimed for objectivity (whatever that actually means in the world of wine scoring).

Notes are as written during the tasting with the talicised lines winemaker notes. Oh and I believe there are new vintages out formany of these wines.

Wolf Blass Red Label Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2010
60/40 Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc
Simple, washed out citrus style. Noticeable residual sugar. Simple peachy melon flavours, with tart added acid finish. No flavour but nothing abhorrent really. 14.5/81

Wolf Blass Red Label Shiraz Cabernet 2010
Stewed and confected red berry nose. Highly cropped, red peach juice and cooked jam flavours. Empty palate and sharply acidity finish. Tastes very cheap this one. 13.5/78

Wolf Blass Red Label Cabernet Merlot 2010
More varietal Cabernet leaf characters in here. Mint chocolate and even some tannins. Harsh acidity through the finish destroys any early joy. Shame. 14.5/81

Wolf Blass Yellow Label Riesling 2010
Clare and Eden Valley fruit. 4g/L RS.
Dull, metallic nose but with some proper sherbety Riesling hints. Broad and juicy, forward lemon lime style with plenty of juiciness. Tingly acidity. Shows plenty of Riesling character for the dollars really (I've seen this for $11 around the traps). 15.8/86

Wolf Blass Yellow Label Chardonnay 2010
Really quite genuine white peach and melon nose. A little simple and the oak looks like staves not barriques but otherwise really quite solid. Bright modern Chardonnay palate with melon fruit richness and quite taut acidity. Simple wine no doubt but still much to appreciate in the scheme of things. 16.3/87

Wolf Blass Yellow Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Warmish, molten caramelised fruit nose. Sticky, spicy, tarry and very ripe. Minty too. Palate is rich and sweet, the lack of genuine fruit richness compensated with residual sugar, though it can't cover the hard acidity and green notes of overcropped fruit. Awkward finish. Quite a step behind the rest of the Yellow Label range. 14.8/82

Wolf Blass Gold Label Pinot Noir Chardonnay 2007
Adelaide Hills fruit.
Quite a rich and yeasty nose. Spends 18 months+ on lees and it shows here with some nice honeyed leesy richness. Palate though isn't quite as intriguing, broad and generous with rather sharp and pointed acidity. Wish the palate would match the nose, for this then would be a cracking wine. Still pretty good. 16.5/88

Wolf Blass Gold Label Chardonnay 2010
Adelaide Hills fruit.
Very tight wine this. Nose shows quite a bit of obvious vanilla oak but little else. Slow burner. Oaky, melon palate. Looks a fraction sweet and sour/peaches and mango cream but I think that is also a product of the slightly blunt oak and (again) pointy acidity. I see potential here with time though, even if it's all arms and legs (and oak and acid) at present. 16.8/89+

Wolf Blass Gold Label Shiraz 2009
Barossa fruit. 15% alc.
Heavy, jammy and ripe style with a big density of super ripe fruit on the nose. Dead fruit even. Very sweetly rich, plummy and concentrated entry before jagged raw finish interspersed with hints of dried plum and raspberry fruit. Overripe. Hard acid to finish. Not much joy (for my palate at least). 15/83

Wolf Blass Grey Label Shiraz Cabernet 2009
Robe/Mt Benson fruit.
Sweet, cocoa powder American oak richness but matched by more fruit here. Sweetly red berried juiciness meets heavy toast oak. Classic Wolf Blass nose. Like a cherry ripe but with more darker fruit. Quite fine tannins with more fruit richness through the finish too. Sharp acidity on the tail and noticable alcohol heat. A big wine but a solid one in the Wolf Blass idiom. Fans buy with confidence - it's not my preferred style but I can see the appeal. 17.5/91

Wolf Blass Black Label Shiraz Cabernet 2007
Huge, classic formic oak driven nose. Langhorne mintiness in there too. Sweetly minty but full and ripe and generous, not flat. Sappy edge in there too. Very rich and sweet palate but not quite the tannins of the best vintages with a hole in the back palate. Lovely choc oak goodness though. Has it's place. 17.8/92

Wolf Blass Platinum Label Shiraz 2008
Single vineyard Shiraz from the Barossa.
Very sleek, juicy and concentrated nose. Really plump but still sophisticated. Seriously oaky, utterly Australian but also very good in it's mode. Richly oaky, sweet and generous yet without the brutality of the Black Label. Much sexier. Creamy and silken even. Can't deny the Barossan rich goodness of the style with that limitless old vine depth to it all. Quite classic and even Grange-like vino. 18/93

Wirra Wirra Church Block - a great way to spend $20

2012-01-21T19:26:00.001+11:00

(A version of this article first appeared in the December issue of LattéLife magazine. Again it was written for a slightly different audience than this blog normally caters for but I think it works regardless. I'm interested in what you think, for it probably lacks the criticality I usually write with. Or maybe that's just me being over critical!).

As a wine writer it’s genuinely easy to get carried away about ultra premium wines. Ultra premium wines, with ultra premium price tags and found in the ultra premium section of ultra premium wine stores.

But, in reality, so few of us will ever get to enjoy such unobtainable luxury tipples that they’re basically irrelevant (except for a very select few).

Instead, what is perhaps more exciting is when we stumble across a wine that is both tasty AND affordable. Something that – if you shop around – can be picked up for well under $20, yet is genuinely well made and good quality whilst also being produced by one of the ‘good guys’ of the wine industry to boot.

I’m talking particularly about the humble Wirra Wirra Church Block (current vintage is 2009), a red wine that most Australian wine drinkers would easily recognise - particularly given how popular and widely distributed it is – and probably walk straight past.

What makes it worth the double-take however is what it isn’t. It’s not pretentious. It’s not produced from newly fashionable, unpronounceable indigenous Italian grape varieties. It’s not made in the hottest cool climate region of the moment, nor is it natural or preservative free. It is, in the scheme of things, a slightly unfashionable blend of Cabernet, Shiraz and Merlot, made in an oak rich, full bodied form that has changed very little since 1972.

It’s that unwavering, ‘if it ain’t broke don’t fix it’ commitment to the style though that ultimately makes the Church Block such a satisfying drink, a commitment to producing a wine that will always be - and I’m quoting the winery directly here - a ‘smooth, soft red wine that balances the complexity sought by aficionados, with the approachability desired by those seeking pure drinking pleasure.’

Better still, the appeal of the Church Block red doesn’t just lie in its immediate drinking pleasure either, with a recent tasting of the 04 vintage suggesting that this humble wine should get even better with bottle age too, a characteristic not often found in your typical sub $20 red wine.

Ultimately what really drives the Church Block though is that it is a quintessentially Australian wine. A wine that carries its Mclaren Vale identity with distinction, acting as an accessible mascot for both the region and the style, helping to communicate quite clearly what it is that the Vale does so well – namely rich, soft, delicious and full flavoured red wines that simply over deliver for intensity and depth of flavour whilst also showing almost unbeatable value.

Winner.

Xabregas Riesling range

2012-01-16T22:56:00.001+11:00

Xabregas Riesling range

With the Summer of Riesling now well underway it seems only appropriate to be looking at a range of Australians Rieslings that are pushing the boundaries a little. In this instance I'm talking about the Xabregas Riesling range, a collection of serious, off-dry and interesting Rizzas from WA's Great Southern produced by the 'Riesling madmen' - Paul Hogan and Martin Cooper.

Strictly speaking Xabregas have only been making boundary pushing Rieslings for a few years (although have been producing good Riesling for considerably longer) so this little lineup represents some wines that look like works in progress (from a WA vintage that I don't think was particularly well suited to Riesling either).

Regardless of the slightly variable results, I'm excited by the effort and passion behind these wines.

(These notes are a little stunted as were written on the run. I think you get the gist though).

X by Xabregas Spencer Riesling 2010 10.9% $40
Orange blossom, tangerine. Nice florals. Carries its sweetness on the nose. Just a little funk in there too. Lovely solid sherbet and lemon-lime solo nose with a concentrated orange juice sweetness to the palate. Just a little bluntly sweet but has a nice lime lifesaver tang to it. Good Riesling here. 17.4/91

X by Xabregas Figtree Riesling 2010 11.8% $40
Not quite the florals of the Spencer, a little more lime-lemonade and perhaps more subdued. Extra phenolic seriousness here, an extra degree of tang and weight that I rather like. Sweetness balance looks better here too, even if it's still too tight for more love. Lots of potential here, even if it just needs more acidity to cover that orange tang sweetness. 17.7/92+

Xabregas Mount Barker Riesling 2010 11.4% $23
Lots of obvious sweetness here. Candied. Phenolic palate with seriously obvious sweetness. Can't get past that overt sweetness, even though it's commercially attractive. 16/87

Sauvignon Blanc is dead. Long live Sauvignon Blanc!

2012-01-12T00:09:00.002+11:00

Sauvalicious. Sort of.

Sauvignon Blanc is dead. Long live Sauvignon Blanc!
(A version of this article appeared in the November edition of LattéLife magazine. It's written for a much different audience than this blog but I think it's worth publishing regardless. You be the judge)

After five years of utter domination, it seems the ‘Savalanche’ has peaked.

What’s the Savalanche you say? That’s the label given to the recent meteoric rise of Sauvignon Blanc in Australia. A meteoric rise that has seen Sauv Blanc consumption grow at a rate of up to 42% year-on-year, with the variety now claiming the title as Australia’s favourite white wine (usurping Chardonnay in the process).

Yet all that is changing. Sauvignon Blanc may still be our most enjoyed white, but over the last year the growth has slowed to (just!) 10%, with other varieties such as Pinot Gris now creeping up to take the mantle.

As to why the variety is losing favour (of sorts) it’s perhaps a whole range of factors: Drinking fashion, a flood of average quality Sauvignon Blancs that have swamped the market, or even blame it on the fact that the Kiwis - who grow more Sauvignon Blanc than anyone else - took the World Cup from us (or some people might. Tenuous I know but rugby fans would take it very seriously. Maybe).

The real story however is that Sauvignon Blanc has become boring. Or at least the mainstream style of Sauvignon Blanc that we find on liquor store shelves has become boring, with a certain homogeneity now destroying the variety (or at least I think so). A homogeneity that has seen grapes picked earlier, fermented quicker and bottled with more residual sugar, all in the attempt to make the wines cheaper and more 'commercially attractive' (read sweet and inoffensive).

A recent trip to New Zealand however reminded that beyond these ‘typical’ Sauvignon Blancs there lies a whole world of Sauvignon fun. A world where ‘Savvy’ can be crafted into richly textured, layered wines that show complexity and power and interest. The sort of wines that will live and grow with cellaring, evolving nicely in the bottle, instead of looking good for 12 months and then fading away (like most do). Wines that even grumpy wine writers (like me) find interesting.

For a perfect example of what can be done with the variety look only at the Dog Point Section 94 Sauvignon Blanc, a Kiwi Savvy produced by Ivan Sutherland and James Healey, themselves some of the original staff at Cloudy Bay.

What makes this wine appealing is that it is a Sauvignon Blanc treated with the love it deserves in the vineyard (cropped low, farmed organically, hand pruned and hand picked) and then given a whole lot more work in the winery (wild ferments, oak maturation, bottle ageing etc) to produce a complex and intriguing wine that is proudly different to typical Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs and, in my opinion, all the better for it (cellar worthy too. The current vintage is a 2010 and it’s still a year or so off its best. The 2006 vintage is drinking rather well right now).

Locally you can see examples of this Sauvignon stylistic evolution too. Look at the Mitchell Harris Sauvignon Blanc Fumé for example, a particularly sexy, textural Sauv Blanc produced by new gun winemaker John Harris from premium Pyrenees fruit. It's a Sauvignon Blanc that carries none of the cat wee and gooseberry laden 'aromatics first, texture last' failings of so many boring Sauvs and instead swaps it for crunchy herbs and creamy complexity.

Finally, it would be remiss to not mention Sancerre when talking about interesting Sauvignon Blanc, as this French winemaking region is considered to be the home of the grape. Look for example at the enthralling wines of Domaine Pascal Cotat, Domaine Riffault or Domaine Daniel Chotard to taste some of the new breed of wonderful Sauvignon Blanc based wines.

All I am saying, is give (interesting) Sauvignon Blanc a chance!

Early highlights from the Summer of Riesling

2012-01-11T00:28:00.002+11:00

The Riesling brothers in action outside Fix St James

Early highlights from the Summer of Riesling

This week marks the start of the Summer of Riesling (#summerofriesling on twitter), a season long celebration of all things Riesling (and Riesling related) that is aimed at building a greater love and understanding of this truly noble grape via a series of tastings, dinners and other events.

The drivers of this Riesling lovefest are the dynamic Riesling duo of Fix St James proprietor (and Sommelier of the Year) Stuart Knox and wine distributor (and the only person I know who has Riesling instead of blood) Jason Hoy, with the pair building upon the good work of Summer of Riesling founder Paul Grieco (of Terroir wine bar in New York) to help push the Riesling cause evern further.

Now in it's second association season locally (check out some snippets from last year), the movement (it's actually now a not-for-profit) this year is noticeably bigger, brighter and more professional than 2011, with the initiative now pushed along by more events, more wines and, most importantly, more Riesling focused merchandise...

To kick off proceedings (and showcase the new merch) the association is hosting 4 nights of intensive Summer of Riesling tastings this week, with each night deliberately dedicated to a different part of the Australian Riesling world (bar Thursday when the rest of the globe gets a look in). So far that has meant a night of South Australian Riesling (Monday) and West Australian and Victorian Riesling (Tuesday), with NSW, ACT and Tasmanian Riesling to follow Wednesday evening.

Whilst I've thus been lucky to sample 70+ wines over the last few nights, I haven't actually been taking comprehensive notes (what sort of a writer am I? Shit!) so actually coming up with too many highlights is more challenging than expected. However I did manage to jot down a few notable gooduns'. I'm going to list them here in point form, purely for ease of notation.

South Australia

- Jim Barry Florita Riesling 2011 - Shitloads of acidity but for the patient it should evolve well.
- Jim Barry Botrytis Riesling 2011 - The Barry's clearly did well for the year. Sweetness balance spot on.
- Pikes 'The Merle' Riesling 2011 - As above but with the acid toned down half a notch. Very good length too.
- Pewsey Vale 'The Contours' Riesling 2006 - Delicious. Everything you'd want in a 6yr old Eden Rizza. Toasty, long and dry. Wonderful.
- Vinteloper Odeon Riesling 2011 - Dave's a mate so I'll accept the bias, this did look much more palatable than most though. The particular bottle did look a fraction oaky too which was interesting (though not intrusive). Definitely a year where the extra winery 'work' helped build texture and drinkability.

Western Australia and Victoria

A prime pair from Porongurup

- Castle Rock Riesling 2011 - Wonderful. Crunchy (too crunchy for some) crystalline acidity and citrus power. Superb.
- Abbey Rock Riesling 2011 - As above but with slightly less acidity and more florals. Another winner.
- Frankland Estate Netley Road Riesling 2011 - In truth either this or the Poison Hill was my wine of tasting. The Netley Road won purely on the back of it's spicy edge. Classic Australian dry Rizza. Get some.
- Mac Forbes RS19 Riesling 2011 - A Strathbogie number and what an unusual beast. Gherkins, dill, whitebait on the nose and a deft dance of residual sugar to match that just ripe acidity. Intrigue! Polarising wine though.
- The Story Henty Riesling 2011 - Minty and only just ripe, this is another unusual wine but also rather refreshing, the finish surprisingly soft considering the vintage. Entirely drinkable and interesting.

Whilst both lists are the same size, there's no question the South Australian lineup was a struggle, largely because of the challenges of some of the 2011 vintage wines. So many tough and overly dry Rieslings. So much hard malic acidity, hints of rot and flat wines, particularly from the Eden Valley. Ouch.

By contrast I only picked a few highlights in the WA list but suffice to say there were many more strong 2011 Great Southern Rieslings, with Larry Cherubino and Howard Park also lobbing up with good wines. As a result - if pressed - I'd be heading west for my drinking rizzas this year, for the WA examples looked endlessly more palatable (out of 2011 at least). In the longer run I think the more balanced '11 Clare wines in particular should deliver, but it's a Riesling mindfield...

More Riesling to follow in the coming weeks...

Best's new(ish) releases

2012-01-10T00:28:00.000+11:00

Best's new(ish) releases

I'm a little slow in writing up these wines as I somehow managed to misplace the notes for them in the bowels of my iPhone. Smartphone notes 1 Andrew 0.

As for these new (or at least most recent) Best's releases there's no doubting their commercial appeal (even if I'm not wooed by all of the wines) which is a firm nod to the winemaking savvy of (now ex) Best's winemaker Adam Wadewitz. However it is a decidedly noncommercial red that is my pick of the wines, in particular a singular varietal that I'm intrigued with (in both still and sparkling form).

I'm talking about Pinot Meunier, a grape that I think believe Best's should make more noise about, particularly given both it's uniqueness and history with Best's. Forget Shiraz, Riesling et al. for in the context of Best's, Pinot Meunier is where it's at...

Best's Concongella Sparkling Cuvee 2005 (Great Western, Vic)
Largely reserved for the Thomson family though this also sees a limited release through the cellar door. Blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.

Clean dry and generous nose with plenty of bottle development. Generous palate with sherbety fruit and some bready lees driven richness. Off dry finish offsets slightly twingy acidity. Pleasant, if slightly broadish style, with plenty to like. Affable and well made. 16.8/89

Best's Riesling 2011 (Great Western, Vic) 11.5%
Again a move towards more sweetness in this wine, though the extra acidity in this 2011 iteration balances it out quite nicely. 10g/L residual sugar I believe.

That sweetness is obvious from first sip too, the wine limey and juicy with lemon sherbet residual sweetness and a real liveliness to proceedings. Generous, soft, off dry finish doesn't quite have the cut to deal with that residual sugar, but gee it makes for an attractive (well chilled) summer drink. 17.5/91

Best's Chardonnay 2010 (Great Western, Vic) 12.5%
Toasty, generous, slightly old school style this, with leesy, creamy, peachy/rice custard oak driven richness on both nose and palate. Soft and and expansive through the middle and then fresh to finish, this has has reasonable vitality though it's not pushing any boundaries. 16.5/88

Best's Pinot Noir 2010 (Great Western, Vic) 12.5%
Caramel, raspberry red fruit and mint. Raspberry red cherry palate. A tad warmish and flat on the finish. Note enough delicacy for mine. 15.8/86

Best's 'Young Vines' Pinot Meunier 2010 (Great Western, Vic) 12%
'Young Vines' in this instance refers to vines planted in 1971 (hardly young in the scheme of things) themselves drawn off cuttings from the original 1867 plantings. Style-wise this sits closer to cru Beaujolais than anything else, sharing Gamay's brightness and deft touch without losing that grip and loose-but-dry structure. A slightly ferrous note in there too only enhances proceedings.

Lovely vibrant cherry nose with some hints of cinnamon and white pepper. That cinnamon edge is really quite beguiling and unique. X-factor. Cherry red fruit palate is generous and Gamay like in it's roundness before finishing quite dry and savoury with a Pinot flick to the tail. Yes! All that is needed for this to vault into the superstar realm is a little more concentration. Big fan. 18/93

Bests Bin 1 Shiraz 2010 (Great Western, Vic) 14.5%
After the plushness of the 09 this returns to a much more classic persona (and is all the better for it). Carries the plum essence regional character nicely, if still looking a little sullen. There's even a hint of herbs in there too. The palate is a concentrated plum liqueur ball at present, the oak sitting on top of everything too, leaving just alcohol warmth to finish. Lots of latent power in this Shiraz! Grampians Shiraz fans can buy with confidence for this is a welll built. full bodied, modern Shiraz, if one in need of time. 17.7/92+

Bests Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 (Great Western, Vic) 13%
A lighter wine this year with signs of uneven ripeness - There's a certain blackberry fruit juiciness to the lightish palate but it becomes more angular and herbal before finishing with quite astringent tannins. There's length and more to come here, but not quite there for mine. 16/87

Bests Sparkling Shiraz 2009 (Great Western, Vic) 14.5%
Exactly as you'd want this style of sparkling Shiraz to be really. Big, chocolatey, brambly berry fruit with the dry and grainy Shiraz tannins offset by judicious dosage sweetness. It's surprisingly dry actually and dusty, that plum essence regional character working in the styles favour. A simple wine in the scheme of thing perhaps but in it's mode a pleasure vehicle indeed. Imagine this would be popular. 17.5/91

Bests Thomson Family Shiraz 2008 (Great Western, Vic) 14.4%
Drawn from the original 1867 plantings. 2008 was a heatwave vintage but the old vines coped particularly well. This very limited wine is already sold out I believe.

Minty, plum liqueur fruit echoes the Bin 1 style but deeper, richer and carries more limitless depth. Slightly roasted fruit elements are a little distracting but no questioning the joy of that intense purple fruit, the warmth of the vintage only serving to concentrate things (or at least that's the impression that I get). It's a sweetened fruit entry to a dark black fruit palate, finishing with bitter tannins and a swish of spirituous warmth. A little sweet and sour perhaps but impressively concentrated. That slightly roasted fruit element is the only distraction.

Old vine Shiraz power the winner here, no question about it... 18.1/93+

On the perils of 2011 Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blancs

2012-01-06T23:54:00.001+11:00

On the perils of 2011 Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blancs

A pack of Sauvs
None battered though..

There's no escaping the fact that 2011 was a tough year in the Hills. You need only to read the Shaw + Smith blog to get a little background as to the challenges of this most peculiar vintage. Still, as in every vintage, there is/will be exceptions - standout wines (and standout wineries) that defy any vintage expectations to hit serious heights. I'm not sure if said highlights are amongst these four wines though...

The main problem, or at least I think so, with many of these 2011 Adelaide Hills wines centres around the shape of the acidity (which sounds ridiculously esoteric but bear with me), with elevated malic acid and lower sugar levels making for wines that have a hardness of acidity to them, an unripe hardness to them even that is rather difficult to ignore. Couple that with the muddling, muddying effects of botrytis (which was particularly widespread in the Hills this year with whole vineyards left unpicked. It was quite a surreal sight driving through in June and seeing grapes still hanging on the vine) and you've got hard wines that don't taste right.

Now, again, I don't want to tarnish all the 2011 Adelaide Hills wines for, as mentioned, there will be great wines made, with the key to this greatness being largely centred around how much work was done in the vineyards. In 2011 for instance handpicking was essential and diligent spray applications really paid off, with those who didn't adopt either (or not throughly enough) ultimately paying the price with fruit that was often unripe or so heavily botrytised that the resultant wines needed to be pasteurised and heavily filtered (or they'd end up as hard, brown coloured wines).

Bringing it all back to this little bracket of four 2011 vintage Adelaide Hills Sauvs and I found that, for my tastes at least, the better wines were the ones that countered this hardness with a little winemaking nous, the wines that used oak or a little residual sugar (or whatever really) to deliver more harmonious and more integrated wines. Regardless, there was less love here than you'd normally see in a bracket of well regarded Adelaide Hills Sauvs...

The wines:

Tempus Two Copper Series Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (Adelaide Hills, SA)
12.5%, Screwcap, $19.95

A thoroughly varietal beast this carried a snow pea nose that looks fresh and reasonably pure, with a nice hint of mushroomy lees characters on the edges. Palate is nicely balanced too with a little sweetness and the textural lift of oak richness to counter the crunchy, slightly sour acidity. I thought to this be just a little short but entirely pleasant, the acid still carrying the grittiness of the vintage but with a softer edge than the others. Definitely pleasure to be had here and the easy leader of this pack. 17.5/91

Longview Whippet Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (Adelaide Hills, SA)
10.5%, Screwcap, $18

There's a crystalline purity to this that is really quite attractive, though I may be mistaking purity for simplicity.... Anyway, this is all herbs and lime juice, dancing along with tangy, almost salty acidity, making for almost a Sauvignon Blanc margarita! Acidity seems more natural and less forced here too, though the palate ends pretty quickly and leaves something of a herbal aftertaste. Still, considering the $$ this is really a rather solid wine. 16.5/88

Grant Burge Kraft Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (Adelaide Hills, SA)
12.5%, Screwcap, $21

Sadly I really struggled with this wine - it looked hard and parched and ungenerous, a story of herbs without fruit. The palate too looked sweet and already quite advanced, with abrupt acidity and little in the way of fruit sweetness (just sugar sweetness). Not much of a fan I'm afraid. 14/80

Nepenthe Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (Adelaide Hills, SA)
12.5%, Screwcap, $19.95

Another slightly unfun wine, kicking off with a somewhat flat, dull nose that was like washed out, grassy lime cordial capped off with a hint of botrytis in there too. The palate has a woody hardness that suggests unripe fruit to boot, though not quite as abruptly or awkwardly as the Kraft. Quite a margin off Nepenthe's best Sauvs this one... 14.5/82

Catching up: Pinot Noir

2012-01-05T00:25:00.000+11:00

Catching up: Pinot Noir

A Pinot Noir bunch
Tight and sexy looking bunch isn't it?

In typical festive season style I've been doing plenty of drinking and comparatively little note taking of late, a situation which I'm totally ok with but one that's generally not conducive to good blogging (or such).

So, perhaps vainly, I'm going to attempt to redress that balance right now with a round-up of a few of the Pinots that I enjoyed recently. Sadly the notes for these are just a little on the short side though hopefully you get the gist...

Oh and if you haven't started stocking up on these 2010 Yarra/Macedon/Southern Victorian Pinots then start now. You've been warned...

Hoddles Creek Pinot Noir 2010 (Yarra Valley, Vic)
This is the best value Pinot Noir in Australia, which is probably why this wine is either already sold out or not far off. It looks firmer, denser and more powerful this year, the nose still reticent and the palate rippling with tannins, the wine quite masculine for the Yarra (and Hoddles) but with the flesh to match. Yes. Buy some. 18.3/93+

Punt Rd Pinot Noir 2010 (Yarra Valley, Vic)
Immediately prettier, softer and less serious than the Hoddles but with a juiciness that's worth highlighting, the lightly sappy red fruit sure to have commercial appeal. Very pleasant, affable, yet not contrived wine with enough pinosity to convince. 17.2/90

Bress Silver Chook Pinot Noir 2010 (Yarra Valley & Macedon, Vic)
Pepper! Pepper and green olive stemminess with charry oak overtones and a dose of 'charcuterie plate' in there for good measure (salami maybe). Really very serious wine considering it's $22 price point, this looked just a fraction young but also a wine of some density. Good. 17.3/90+

Oakridge Pinot Noir 2010 (Yarra Valley, Vic)
So very Yarra this with that red fruit brightness of warmer year Yarra Pinot (attractive character it is too). Palate has sappy, glace red fruit, some slightly sweet caramel oak and a proper dry savoury finish. Pretty, yet structured too. Easy recommendation this and immediately drinkable. 18/93

Dalrymple Pinot Noir 2010 (Tamar Valley, Tas)
Tight. Ultimately too young Pinot with a pippy, peppery cherry nose that gives away little of the goodies to come. Palate is both glossy and sweet with musky fruit at the edges but closed through the middle and pulls up a little short. I'm calling this as a slow burne,r for there is richness in there underneath it just needs time. Retaste needed. 16.8/89+

Holm Oak Pinot Noir 2009 (Tamar Valley, Tas)
Riper and almost slightly roasted style this vintage with a level of extraction and power I haven't seen before, the fruit almost heading into gamy, Martinborough levels of ripeness. Black pepper, spice, tannins, heart and power. Maybe a little too big but certainly a mouthful of a wine. Will be interested to see how this develops in bottle. 17.4/90+

Bindi Composition Pinot Noir 2010 (Macedon, Vic)
I actually had this last night so it's something of an addendum to this lot (but entirely worth including). Like a few of the wines above it's a masculine wine in the context of Bindi Composition Pinot but in the best possible fashion (with no delicacy really sacrificed as a result). There's a subliminal (actually it's probably more latent than that) minted red fruit power to this wine that screams quality (or it did to me at least) with a thick and dense mid palate and tightly woven tannins, the wine still carrying a sheen of oak to sweeten everything up. A wine for the future (don't drink it now) I can't help but want (more) of this in my cellar. Ballsy without losing elegance. Yes. 18.4/93+

Jim Barry Pb Shiraz Cabernet 2005

2012-01-03T22:00:00.000+11:00

Jim Barry Pb Shiraz Cabernet 2005 (Clare Valley, SA)
14.9%, Cork, $50
Source: Sample
www.jimbarry.com

Jim Barry Pb
Nothing to do with lead

Wines just don't come more Australian than this. In fact, any more 'Aussie' and it may need a baggy green (or some other Australiana type paraphernalia).

By 'Aussie' I mean that it's cast in a particular style, a style that is quite representative of the sort of red wines that are (stereotypically) made and enjoyed here.. It's a style that is criticised by many English/European wine media, whilst being celebrated by both Australian and American wine media. A style that is unashamedly reflective of where this wine is grown and the context of the Jim Barry winemaking idiom. A wine that many may dismiss as somewhat old school, but of a form that I think needs to be celebrated and cherished, particularly for how well that Clare Valley 'regional mode' and Barry hand is transmitted. A big Clare Valley red, built with lots of everything (and proudly so).

The wine itself is something of an homage, not to the winery namesake Jim Barry but to his son Peter Barry, current head of the Barry clan and someone who clearly appreciates this sort of wine. A blend of 70% Clare Valley Shiraz and 30% Clare Valley Cabernet, the 2005 Pb is ostensibly a combination of McRae Wood Shiraz and Benbournie Cabernet parcels, coupled together to create a proper Australian red, built in a form that Peter Barry originally conceived as a 'personal wine' harking back to the red blends his (late) father made in the 70s.

Given that context it's probably little surprise as to how this wine looks - it's a super concentrated wine still looking beastly 7 years down the track. That beastiness is announced with a little volatility, mint slice/choc oak, and rippling choc plum fruit. It's a big, warm and thick nose bristling with mint edged Clare Valley richness and heart.

That style flows through to a palate that is seriously intense, flowing with black licorice, darkly savoury and inky fruit cake and roasted plum fruit flavours, carried through with a warming, hearty bitter tannic edge that is most addictive, if just a fraction overt. Tannins too are grainy, chocolatey and obvious, the finish boozy - but not overripe - and very long, the aftertaste a lump of fruit, oak, tannins and alcohol (and plenty of each)

Ultimately it's that 'plenty of' form that makes this red both great and divisive. It's a big, alcoholic and anything-but-delicate wine that's driven by very ripe fruit and much oak, yet also - in it's genre - is a wine to be highlighted (heck, it won a trophy in the 2007 Great Australian Red wine show thingie). I'm scoring it highly as a result, even if it is - strictly speaking - something of an overwhelming wine. 18.5/94

Domaine A Stoney Vineyard Pinot Noir 2010

2012-01-02T21:25:00.001+11:00

Stoney Vineyard Pinot Noir 2010
I can vouch for it's drinkability with Peking duck

Domaine A Stoney Vineyard Pinot Noir 2010 (Tasmania)
13.5%, Cork, $35
Source: Sample
www.domaine-a.com.au

Effectively the second label Pinot for Domaine A, what's most intriguing about this release is what it's not - which is herbal. For, historically speaking at least, when you opened a Stoney Vineyard red - Pinot Noir or Cabernet Sauvignon - you just expected some herbal, unripe fruit characters in the mix, particularly as the Stoney Vineyard label is/was often reserved for the less ripe Domaine A wines.

Yet this isn't unripe at all. Rather, it's actually quite juicy, carrying a brightness and energy that is entirely upfront and appealing, yet without ever looking sweet. In fact, the only thing working against this Pinot is it's youthfulness, the wine still bound up through the mid palate, the gap between mid palate and tannins rather palpable.

Flavourwise it's very much a red fruit Pinot style this, with an almost Central Otago-esque prettiness on the nose and a delicacy on the palate that I really quite like. It's still a bit too upfront and bouncy/youthful to really love just yet, but no question marks about the delicacy and class. 17.7/92

A quick note of thanks

2011-12-31T17:08:00.000+11:00

Because fireworks seem the most appropriate choice for
a new years message. Good photo too by Verpletterend

A quick note of thanks

With just hours remaining of 2011 I think it's probably a good time to have a little reflect on the year.

Thankfully I'm not going to bore you too much with said reflections, but I would like to send out a hearty thank you for stopping by - whether you have just randomly landed on this page via a google search, or you're a regular reader, or you just check in occasionally to see what I'm banging on about. Regardless of who you are I'd like to offer hugs and cheers all round.

The main reason for this thanks though is that blogging, as many of us know, is one of the most indulgent sports around (and wine blogging particularly so). As a result it can often feel like I'm just writing vaguely wine related drivel (which may also be true), to no one in particular (also possible) and largely for my own amusement (ditto), a situation which is not actually all that satisfying in the long run.

Yet it is the feedback, the comments, the emails, the 'hey you're that guy who slammed our wines' confrontation at tastings that you, dear reader (not Dear Leader) provide that makes me want to keep posting, keep writing and keep going (even if sporadically at times). It's that social dynamic which is the driver, the knowledge that people actually read/occasionally even enjoy what you write that makes this blogging caper both fun and worthwhile. Again, hugs all round.

Now, as for 2012, I'm looking forward to (hopefully) being more grumpy and impartial next year with the intention of trying provide the most honest perspective on wine that I can muster. Or something like that...

Happy new year and I look forward to hearing from you/seeing you/guessing that you're reading this blog in 2012.

Andrew

Soul Growers Slow Grown Shiraz 2009

2011-12-27T02:26:00.001+11:00

Soul Growers Slow Grown Shiraz 2009
Slow to grow, probably less slow to drink

Soul Growers Slow Grown Shiraz 2009 (Barossa, SA)
15.5%, Cork, $50
Source: Sample
www.soulgrowers.com

The flagship Soul Growers red (in a hefty bottle too) and built like it too. What's most remarkable is just how well this carries it's ripeness and weight - it's a warm wine, but not a heavy one, a twinkle toed heavyweight boxer in a rather satisfying style.

It smells like a heavyweight too, with a sweet and juicy nose of blackberry/raspberry sauce, drinking chocolate, cola (the good stuff, not Pepsi) and black licorice. There's a wonderful old school Barossan depth to that nose, that sort of limitless, oak buffed richness and extract that drives the dopamine levels of most red wine drinkers through the roof. I'd like to see a fraction less volatility, yet that's also part of the style I suppose, a stylistic quibble from the gallery perhaps...

The power continues through the palate too, the dry, chewy, cocoa and berry middle driving the palate along with chalky, cocoa edged tannins (it really needs time in the decanter to come together - 6 hours plus). It's built large, oaky (quality, deepset oak) and alcoholic but not intrusively so, with that open fermented, basket pressed, low acid softness to seduce further. Interestingly I found the alcohol level noticeable but not intrusive, an indication of grapes that were ripe but not overly so...

Ultimately there's no ignoring that this is a beast of a wine. Yet it's also one with a certain seductiveness to it that can't be ignored. A wine that's not for everyone and not for every night, but fills a certain hole. A wine of heart and depth and more heart and more Barossan depth, cast anything but elegant, yet rightfully so. An uncompromised wine (and happily so). 18.3/93

Xmas drinks 2011: Bubbles

2011-12-25T23:30:00.000+11:00

Xmas drinks 2011: Bubbles

Clover Hill 2007

I really didn't expect for today to become a bubblefest.

I mean obviously there were bubbles around, but fizz was never meant to be the feature of our Xmas day. Heck I had bottles of Chablis, Shiraz and more on the table ready to go, yet very little of it was touched. I personally think that numerous icy cold beers (and some limoncello) may have gotten in the way, but who am I to dictate drinking terms on Christmas day?

Anyway, 'twas (I'm feeling festive, so 'twas is creeping in everywhere) good bubbly times regardless and I had a cracking day. Christmas is my favourite time of year and with a large extended family (who I like) based locally it's always a food and drink-fest of classic proportions. Love Christmas

The wines (prices are approximate RRPs):

Clover Hill 2007 (Tasmania) 13% $47
A riper year for Northern Tassie and this is a riper Clover Hill, built richer, fuller and more evolved than the previous few vintages. What's most pleasing to see is how layered, complex and weighty this fizz is, even if I think it's just a little too broad and sweet/sour for higher points. Actually, when served icy cold this looked classy indeed, and it wasn't until the Veuve was opened (below) that the wobbly bits became apparent.

Immediately it's a full, seriously intentioned and Pinot dominant smelling wine this one, with a bottle age thickness and lees derived weight in there that makes this look every bit a vintage Champagne (if an overly young one). That's backed by a grunty, powerful and thick palate too, let down only by a sweet and sour acid fruit imbalance and slightly broad finish. I can't fault the power and flavour, but it just needs more detail and a better acid line to satisfay further. Still, quality vino in the scheme of things. 16.8/89+

Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin NV (Champagne, France) 12% $70
In many ways it's a waste of time reviewing big house NV Champagne in Australia, mainly due to the ridiculous amount of bottle variation we experience here (which is of little surprise when you find out how much 'big house' Champagne is shipped to Australia in unrefrigerated containers and then sits in hot warehouses oxidising away. A situation that is completely ridiculous when you think about the prices of French fizz).

Anyway, said NV lotto delivered a good bottle today, one that looked typically restrained and lean without falling into the apple juice neutrality that sometimes tars Veuve NV (or some batches at least. Sigh). It's nowhere near as inviting on the nose as the Clover Hill though, a slender and mono-dimensional creature compared to the buxom Tasmanian bubbly.

Where the Veuve pulls ahead though is the palate, which is lighter and more composed, the acidity pulling harder than the Clover Hill though with a natural softness, the finish slipping through with a soft limestone tang. It's a sweeter wine than the Clover Hill, but that doesn't stick out, and indeed the final effort is simply pure (and better for it). Quality NV. 17.6/91

Capital Wines 'The Black Rod' Sparkling Shiraz 2008 (Canberra) 14% $37
What would Christmas lunch be without a sparkling red? This splurgundy (love that word) is a brand spanking new release from Capital Wines in Canberra, the fruit sourced from Kyeema Vineyard Shiraz and Merlot, blended with a little Murrumbateman Cabernet for balance.

It's a rich and sweet smelling sparkling red this, the nose carrying an inviting, dosage heavy, curranty sweetness with some spicy, maturing, leathery bottle age notes. Caramel, redcurrant and a spoonful of spice. Lovely. Palate is long and warm and rich, finishing curranty and liqueured on the finish. It's perhaps a little spirituous but that's a minor quibble on what is a pretty satisfying, generous and tasty, spicy, mid-weight and still concentrated. Lovely push-pull of sweetness and spicy fruit. A well judged mouthful of sparkling red. Yes. 17.8/92

TAKE TWO: Lerida Estate Cullerin Pinot Noir 2009

2011-12-21T00:40:00.001+11:00

Lake George Cullerin 2009
Take Two..

TAKE TWO: Lerida Estate Cullerin Pinot Noir 2009 (Canberra District)
13.9%, Screwcap, $35
Source: Sample
www.leridaestate.com.au

I don't know about you but I rather like expecting little and being delivered much. It's that simple joy of getting more than you bargained for, like when you get a badly wrapped Christmas present in the office Secret Santa and it turns out to be an excellent novelty pen that doubles as a waiters friend (or the like).

In the wine world such happy surprises seem to happen most often with old bottles, particularly the sort of old bottles that have no business looking as good as they do. Like the original Penfolds Koonunga Hill (the 76) which - when tasted in 2004 - still looked remarkably fresh (and admirably tasty) given it's relative station in life.

On a lesser scale I think you get a similar satisfaction when you retaste a wine and discover a much more attractive side of it, almost like meeting someone for the second time and realising that they're even cuter than you first realised...

In this instance that second look was at a Canberra Pinot that, it's fair to say, I wasn't all that impressed with on the first showing (have a read of the first note here). Yet this time around it just looked genuinely more composed, more balanced and more drinkable.

Again, like many Canberra Pinots, my biggest gripe again with this wine revolves around a lack of delicacy - they're simply too raw, firm and dry red leaning to be genuinely satisfying. They're Shiraz drinkers Pinots for want a better description. However this retaste saw a little of that firmness drop away in the glass to reveal a deep and ferrous Pinot that's all about spicy bacon bit and spicy plum fruit backed by tannins aplenty. There's a richness to the mid palate too that is quite attractive too, though that richness vein takes a solid six hours in the decanter to come out (which probably partly explains why it looked better this time around).

Ultimately this is still something of a bulky Pinot and probably lacks that delicacy that I really love in Pinot Noir, however I think that there is still plenty of joy to be had in the style (and much more than my first taste suggested) that's worth highlighting (at least more than I did last time). 16.8/89

Terre à Terre Wrattonbully Botrytis Pinot Gris 2011

2011-12-20T01:28:00.001+11:00

Terre à Terre Pinot Gris
Delectable

Terre à Terre Botrytis Pinot Gris 2011 (Wrattonbully, SA)
10.4%, Screwcap, $25
Source: Sample
www.terraterre.com.au

Sourced from the Hoopers vineyard - which is adjoining the Terre à Terre vineyard in Wrattonbully - the two rows of Pinot Gris that produced this fruit were historically grown with dry Pinot Gris production in mind. Xavier (Bizot, Terre à Terre winemaker) however saw the potential to make an Alsatian style botrytis Pinot Gris from said fruit (particularly given that it was quite botrytis prone) and thus started taking the grapes last year.

Fortunately for Xavier (for this wine at least) the wet and cold 2011 vintage was perfect for botrytis infection, with some 20% of these Pinot Gris grapes heavilyy botrytised, 30% partially botrytised and 50% not infected, a ratio that made for some almost ideal fruit for the intended style (it was still hand harvested/sorted though).

Once harvested the grapes were crushed and fermented until the must hit 10.4% potential alcohol, leaving 111g/l RS. It then spent four months in old oak before bottling just a few months ago.

What makes all this information interesting is that the final wine produced has a balance of fruit/sugar/acidity that is genuinely admirable. It, successfully I think, treads that fine line between massive richness and cool acid refreshment in a vein that is more of a lighter Mount Horrocks than much of the marmalade heavy, botrytis rich stickies that Australia is most renowned for (not discounting that style of course, but this I think has a freshness that I genuinely prefer).

Interestingly enough though this smells rather botrytis indeed, carrying that powerful note of noble rot that is quite unmistakeable. Yet it's also a fragrant and pretty smelling wine, carrying talc and frangipani and lavender and orange blossoms, flying in the face of the botrytis funk. The glory though is the palate which couples chalky acidity to orange rind, apple pie and white peach fruit, with everything then capped off with chalky acidity and balanced sweetness.

The secret (or not so secret really) here I think is all about lightness. It's hardly an overtly intense wine, instead leaning towards modesty and restraint. Yet it's also that modesty and restraint that makes you reach for a second and a third glass, a characteristic I can't help but admire. The only thing this needs now is a little more bottle age to allow for the wine to gain weight and settle into it's skin.

Much to like here. 17.8/92+

Nepenthe Pinot Noir 2010

2011-12-20T00:52:00.002+11:00

Nepenthe Pinot Noir
Lots to like for $20

Nepenthe Pinot Noir 2010 (Adelaide Hills, SA)
14%, Screwcap, $20
Source: Sample
www.nepenthe.com.au

Great vintage in the Adelaide Hills 2010, producing solid and very even wines. Here is a proper case in point, a wine packed with pinosity, if cast a little too dry-red and extractive for big love, and selling for just $20 a bottle.

It's a slightly sullen beast at present, with attractive grilled cashew oak, bacon bits warmer climate Pinot characters and a hint of menthol, all bound up in itself right now. More swirls brings more love though, with cinnamon, cranberry and some proper red fruit Pinosity. The palate is a slightly straightforward beast, all slightly roasted sappy plum fruit propelled forward by a little tannic grunt.

Lot's of flavour, if not quite the delicacy, this is really rather likeable for the price, though Burgundy it ain't. 16.9/89+

Lazy Ballerina Shiraz 2009

2011-12-19T23:30:00.000+11:00

Lazy Ballerina Shiraz

Lazy Ballerina Shiraz 2009 (McLaren Vale, SA)
15%, Screwcap, $25
Source: Sample
www.lazyballerina.com.au

Lazy Ballerina is the winemaking project of James Hook, a McLaren Vale viticultural gun-for-hire who spends his working hours solving other people's vineyard issues (you can check out some of his work on the DJ Grower's blog) and as one of the driving forces behind the GroundswellSA anti urban sprawl movement.

With this wine then James is going for old school McLaren Vale in a classic style - think open fermenters, basket pressing, hand picking, the lot. Traditional winemaking it is, yet with a modern attention, a worthy combination indeed. A combination which I think shows rather favourably in the final product too - polish meets craft.

In fact the only quibble I've got with this Shiraz is the ripeness, with this Shiraz carrying that slightly scorched edge of the '09 McLaren Vale vintage on nose and palate, the freshness slightly muted by warmth and dessication. Still, in it's mould it's a pretty smart wine, a thick and enveloping wine even, carrying the very essence of McLaren Vale Shiraz.

That Vale essence character kicks off with a deeply concentrated nose, full of very rich, stewed plum, road tar and molasses on the nose and through the palate. It's almost treacle like in its richness and red wine intensity, conjuring up images of a vineyard full of tiny berries that are chock full of power, if needing just a little more delicacy for big love. The palate too crosses between dried plum fruit and alcohol warmth with a viscosity and weight to it that many will love, finishing expansive if just a little hot.

Sweet and sour in it's acid/sugar balance, this is not my preferred form of Shiraz but I can appreciate the labours behind it. A stylistic preference no doubt for their is quality here. 16.5/88

Vinedrops Collection Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir 2010

2011-12-18T22:14:00.001+11:00

Vinedrops Pinot Noir

Vinedrops Collection Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir 2010 (Adelaide Hills, SA)
13.2%, Screwcap, $20
Source: Sample
www.vinedrops.com.au

The latest release from Nelson da Silva and Johan Axlund's Vinedrops label and perhaps the best yet. It's a juicy, fruit driven Pinot built simply and openly. Commercial appeal +.

Genuine cherry lift to the nose, with that slightly ferrous Adelaide Hills edge. An open and welcoming nose. Sweet palate is a bit juicy and soft and caramelly but the shape of it is still pleasant. Should settle in the bottle. Nice redcurrant line through the finish too.

A very pleasant and even wine of freshness and simplicity. Easy. 17/90

(Footnote: Nelson is a friend so I'm willing to take any accusation of bias. Still think this is the best wine of his releases so far).

BEER: Holgate Hopinator Double IPA

2011-12-18T21:37:00.000+11:00

Holgate Hopinator
Lots of love

BEER: Holgate Hopinator Double IPA
7% alc

Long live the new generation of Australian artisinal beer producers. Brewers that have drunk the world's finest brews, know how to make said beers and still want to push on through into interesting styles. Such a breath of fresh air in an Australian beer industry that has laboured so long with a culture that celebrates tasteless swill and a 'brand first, flavour second' ethos.

Anyway this is a classic example of such interesting new beers. Effectively a double IPA, the flavour here is attributed to an 'outrageous continuous hopping schedule', producing a beer that is something of a classic 'double in style. It smells of rich caramel malt and herbaceous hop flowers, carrying through to a dry, richness-meets-bitterness, caramelised and full palate of weight, finishing long and with a resinous hop edge.

Big, hoppy, rich and involving. It's a full, alcoholic love hug of a beer with conviction and power. Probably a bit too full to drink more than one or two, but at least they'll be a good one or two...

Tower Estate Bowyer Ridge Chardonnay 2010

2011-12-16T00:30:00.001+11:00

Tower Estate Bowyer Ridge Chardonnay 2010 (Adelaide Hills, SA)
13%, Screwcap, $38
Source: Sample
www.towerestatewines.com.au

Tower Estate Bowyer Ridge Chardonnay

It's going to be very interesting seeing what direction the Tower Estate wines take in the future, with all of the winemaking to be done under contract by First Creek/Monarch (instead of in-house). I can't imagine it changing the style too much (particularly given how smart other wines from the First Creek stable are) but again time will tell.

Anyway, this is a pretty solid wine. A little too engineered perhaps but still with plenty to like. It all kicks off with a serious, 'check out my oak' nose cast full and big. The richly textured palate has milky leesy notes, downplayed sulphide and an evenness to it that's immediately appealing. I really like that milky richness actually, supported by good, even acidity. Slightly intrusive oak is all that really mars proceedings, a flash of wood tannins on the finish.

It's actually a quite traditionally built Chardonnay but with a modern spin to it. I think it's smart - if a bit overt - though my Riesling loving Mum thought it the 'sort of Chardonnay that turned me off Chardonnay'... 17.5/91+

Longview Blue Cow Chardonnay 2010

2011-12-15T23:18:00.001+11:00

Longview Chardonnay

Longview Blue Cow Chardonnay 2010 (Adelaide Hills, SA)
13.5%, Screwcap, $18
Source: Sample
www.longviewvineyard.com.au

The winery description for this wine is as a 'classic Chablis style Chardonnay' which I quite like. It's not Chablis, true, but the model is a good one. Like basis Chablis too the score is lowish, the drinkability high.

Pine/lime splice. That's the main character on the nose and it's quite appealing. It works here because it's not too overt. Light. Very little oak (20% of the blend saw wood) and looks juicier because of it. Simple but not dull with a quite pure expression of light Chardonnay fruit. Drinkable ++. 16.5/88

Jean Foillard Morgon Cuvee Corcelette

2011-12-12T23:00:00.000+11:00

A blurry picture of the 07
All I've got. Poignant that it's blurry though...

Jean Foillard Morgon Cuvee Corcelette 2009 (Beaujolais, France) 13%ish $70ish

It dawned on me recently when scanning through the reviews on this site that many of the wines that I love to drink aren't even reviewed on here (which is saddening). The reason for this - I think - is simply because I'm usually too busy drinking said wines to delve into the mechanics of why I'm drinking them. It's almost drinking, not tasting (of sorts). Actually, that's not really an accurate description either, for it's the fabulous mechanics of said wines that drives me to love them in the first place (if that makes any sense) and those mechanics are even more finely appreciated when we step back and go into 'tasting' mode (not 'drinking'. Shit, let's not delve too far into the semantics of 'tasting' vs 'drinking' actually).

In the case of this Beaujolais the reasons why I love drinking it are very simple. It's just simply good. From a wine point of view it's an utterly pure (and conveniently 'natural' wine) wine carrying an appeal that nearly anyone can appreciate (or at least everyone I've given some to has appreciated). It's just grape juice, largely unadulterated fermented grape juice at that, produced from grapes grown in a rather special sandy spot within the Morgon appellation. Grape juice that was gently crafted into wine by the talented Jean Foillard and then bottled in a sexy wax topped bottle for my drinking pleasure. Easy as that really.

Delving deeper, what makes this so good is all about that elusive and extremely underrated wine character of delicacy. It is, in many ways, a pretty wine, a fragrant wine, a wine that - even in this much more robust 2009 vintage framework - still light in body and weight.

It's that lightness, that featherweight - but not weak - beauty that hooks you in. Indeed it's even a lighter wine than its other 09 Foillard siblings, a character that makes it even more attractive to me.
Yet - and I want to stress this - it's still a deep, quite tannic and firm wine, a paradox that makes it even more beguiling to me. Light and dark. Joyful drinkability but with a serious side. Intrigue.

The first thing you smell actually is the dark side. The funk of 'natural' (let's just skip over the natural discussion here for this is a wine that transcends) Gamay with blood and earth and black cherries on the nose in a deep and dark fashion. It's a varietal, ripe, red and black fruit nose that is still unfurling in the glass. Wonderfully, the palate echoes that tug-of-war tension too, with an initial prettiness, then the fabulous, dusty cherry Morgon thang which then gives way to a dark and very ferrous line through the back end, with everything signing off with quietly rippling tannins. It's a biggun' in the Corcelette context yet would still be considered light when compared to most Pinots. Again, the message is delicacy, not overt intensity. Subliminal not overt. Quiet glory and depth cloaked in an easygoing suit.

Excellent wine. 18.6/94

A little article on the women of the Hunter Valley

2011-12-12T22:27:00.003+11:00

A little article on the women of the Hunter Valley

The summer edition of Hunter Valley Breathe magazine is out today and it includes my feature article focusing on some of the top female winemakers of the Hunter Valley.

Normally I wouldn't be republishing links to print articles here but I'm really stoked with how the article turned out. Have a squizz (pg 11)

Hunter Valley Breathe - Summer 2011

Nepenthe Ithaca Chardonnay 2010

2011-12-11T21:00:00.000+11:00

Nepenthe Ithaca Chardonnay
Named after a Greek island. Maybe

Nepenthe Ithaca Chardonnay 2010 (Adelaide Hills, SA)
12.5%, Screwcap, $30
Source: Sample
www.nepenthe.com.au

Here is a perfect example of a good modern Australian Chardonnay. Low in alcohol, carefully oaked and driven by acidity and refreshment as well as texture. Drinkability over show medal worthiness. High fives.

The recipe here is actually pretty simple. Fruit is picked early (late February for this wine), sees no malo and only 9 months in oak. What makes it work is that contrast between the richness of oak. fruit and lees action coupled with the more lifted, malic acid etched palate.

It actually smells quite classic too, with sao oak and grapefruit on the nose, leading to a palate that is initially quite oak driven but also lined with the sort of acidity that is has more in common with (also lightly oaked and not malolactically fermented) Chablis than many modern Chardonnays. That oak still carries through the finish a fraction but no questioning the drive and length and 'only going to get better' palate shape. Nice wine and a very easy recommendation for the price. 18.1/93