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		<title>From Yangarra to Craggy Range: 25 takes on Shiraz + blends</title>
		<link>https://ozwinereview.com/2026/10/from-yangarra-to-craggy-range-25-takes-on-shiraz-blends.html</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Andrew Graham]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 14 Oct 2026 20:30:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[2018]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[2021]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[2023]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[2024]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[2025]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Adelaide Hills]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Barossa]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Canberra]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Central Ranges]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Clare Valley]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Grenache Shiraz + Blends]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hawke's Bay]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Heathcote]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hilltops]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hunter]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Langhorne Creek]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Longer]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Macedon Ranges]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[McLaren Vale]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Nagambie Lakes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Shiraz]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Shiraz Cabernet blends]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Shiraz Other Blends]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Syrah]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Tasmania]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Top Wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Various Regions]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Yarra Valley]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://ozwinereview.com/?p=47313</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[<img width="450" height="350" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0908-450x350.jpg?crop=1" class="webfeedsFeaturedVisual wp-post-image" alt="Craggy Range Le Sol Syrah 2024" style="display: block; margin: auto; margin-bottom: 5px;max-width: 100%;" link_thumbnail="" decoding="async" fetchpriority="high" /><p>'Incidentally, there's probably more diversity in Shiraz styles now than ever before, and to prove it I've gone diving into the sample pile for a proper smorgasbord of 25 different Shiraz + Syrah from all over Australia (and one Kiwi interloper)'</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://ozwinereview.com/2026/10/from-yangarra-to-craggy-range-25-takes-on-shiraz-blends.html">From Yangarra to Craggy Range: 25 takes on Shiraz + blends</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ozwinereview.com">Australian Wine and Drinks Review</a>.</p>
]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<img width="450" height="350" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0908-450x350.jpg?crop=1" class="webfeedsFeaturedVisual wp-post-image" alt="Craggy Range Le Sol Syrah 2024" style="display: block; margin: auto; margin-bottom: 5px;max-width: 100%;" link_thumbnail="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" />
<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Fun fact: Shiraz lost its mantle as Australia&#8217;s most crushed red grape to Chardonnay this year. The two varieties have traded top spot in the last three years, but this year Chardy is back on top as the most crushed grape:</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img decoding="async" width="1024" height="291" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/Screenshot-2026-10-12-at-10.16.38-pm-1024x291.png" alt="" class="wp-image-47318" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/Screenshot-2026-10-12-at-10.16.38-pm-1024x291.png 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/Screenshot-2026-10-12-at-10.16.38-pm-600x171.png 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/Screenshot-2026-10-12-at-10.16.38-pm-1536x437.png 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/Screenshot-2026-10-12-at-10.16.38-pm-2048x582.png 2048w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/Screenshot-2026-10-12-at-10.16.38-pm-960x273.png 960w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Of course, as you can see in the figure above from Wine Australia&#8217;s 2026 Vintage Report, Shiraz and Chardonnay are well down from the dizzy heights, with the smallest vintage in more than 25 years (since the 2000 vintage).</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" width="1018" height="766" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/Screenshot-2026-10-12-at-10.21.45-pm.png" alt="" class="wp-image-47319" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/Screenshot-2026-10-12-at-10.21.45-pm.png 1018w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/Screenshot-2026-10-12-at-10.21.45-pm-600x451.png 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/Screenshot-2026-10-12-at-10.21.45-pm-705x529.png?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/Screenshot-2026-10-12-at-10.21.45-pm-960x722.png 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/Screenshot-2026-10-12-at-10.21.45-pm-350x264.png?crop=1 350w" sizes="(max-width: 1018px) 100vw, 1018px" /></figure>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Also, part of the reason why Shiraz volumes have suffered this year is that warm-climate red (most recently dominated by Shiraz) has suffered significant declines in crush volumes as a proportion this year:</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="776" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/Screenshot-2026-10-12-at-10.27.24-pm-1024x776.png" alt="" class="wp-image-47320" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/Screenshot-2026-10-12-at-10.27.24-pm-1024x776.png 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/Screenshot-2026-10-12-at-10.27.24-pm-600x455.png 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/Screenshot-2026-10-12-at-10.27.24-pm-960x728.png 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/Screenshot-2026-10-12-at-10.27.24-pm-350x264.png?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/Screenshot-2026-10-12-at-10.27.24-pm.png 1398w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">One year a trend does not make, and the death of Shiraz was predicted <a href="https://ozwinereview.com/2025/10/15-diverse-australian-shiraz-and-cabernet-wines.html" data-type="link" data-id="https://ozwinereview.com/2025/10/15-diverse-australian-shiraz-and-cabernet-wines.html">this time last year</a> while the variety defied expectations. Yet the grape has definitely lost a little popular lustre.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Incidentally, there&#8217;s probably more diversity in Shiraz styles now than ever before, and to prove it I&#8217;ve gone diving into the sample pile for a proper smorgasbord of 25 different Shiraz + Syrah from all over Australia (and one Kiwi interloper).</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">There are a few Shiraz blends in here too, which might be stretching the friendship, but I don&#8217;t think they&#8217;re out of place. This mix also has a few interesting backstories for extra entertainment. </p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading">10 highlights from this collection:</h2>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Anvers Syrah 2025</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Craggy Range Le Sol Syrah 2024</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Domaine Razal Dom Raz Syrah 2024</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Juxtaposed Old Vine Shiraz 2023</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Meerea Park Black Shiraz 2024</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Smith-Gant Reserve Bin Cabernet Shiraz 2024</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Tahbilk 1860 Vines Shiraz 2018</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Yangarra King’s Wood Shiraz 2024</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Yangarra Ironheart Shiraz 2023</strong></p>



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<p>The post <a href="https://ozwinereview.com/2026/10/from-yangarra-to-craggy-range-25-takes-on-shiraz-blends.html">From Yangarra to Craggy Range: 25 takes on Shiraz + blends</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ozwinereview.com">Australian Wine and Drinks Review</a>.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
					
		
		
		<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">47313</post-id>	</item>
		<item>
		<title>In the deep end: Château-Grillet, Egly-Ouriet, Arnoux-Lachaux etc</title>
		<link>https://ozwinereview.com/2026/10/in-the-deep-end-chateau-grillet-egly-ouriet-arnoux-lachaux-etc.html</link>
					<comments>https://ozwinereview.com/2026/10/in-the-deep-end-chateau-grillet-egly-ouriet-arnoux-lachaux-etc.html#respond</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Andrew Graham]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 09 Oct 2026 20:29:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[2017]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[2022]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[2023]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[2024]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[2025]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Barolo]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Burgundy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Champagne]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Chardonnay]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Geelong]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jura]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Longer]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Macedon Ranges]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Mega Tasting]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Northern Rhone]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[NV]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Piedmont]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Riesling]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Viognier]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://ozwinereview.com/?p=47201</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[<img width="450" height="350" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0942-450x350.jpg?crop=1" class="webfeedsFeaturedVisual wp-post-image" alt="Arnoux-Lachaux Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Procès 1er Cru 2022" style="display: block; margin: auto; margin-bottom: 5px;max-width: 100%;" link_thumbnail="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" /><p>Up for a little swim in the unicorn end of international wines?</p>
<p>Blue-chip Australian importer Bibendum had a 'special tasting' this week that went deep into a world of mega wines and fancy, expensive things. Naturally I went to such an enticing event, and even though I was wearing my trade hat, I could feel my Amex quivering in my pocket for a pre-Christmas hit.</p>
<p>Let's take at a few bank account drainers...</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://ozwinereview.com/2026/10/in-the-deep-end-chateau-grillet-egly-ouriet-arnoux-lachaux-etc.html">In the deep end: Château-Grillet, Egly-Ouriet, Arnoux-Lachaux etc</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ozwinereview.com">Australian Wine and Drinks Review</a>.</p>
]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<img width="450" height="350" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0942-450x350.jpg?crop=1" class="webfeedsFeaturedVisual wp-post-image" alt="Arnoux-Lachaux Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Procès 1er Cru 2022" style="display: block; margin: auto; margin-bottom: 5px;max-width: 100%;" link_thumbnail="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" />
<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Up for a little swim in the unicorn end of international wines?</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Blue-chip Australian importer Bibendum had a &#8216;special tasting&#8217; this week that went deep into a world of mega wines and fancy, expensive things. This is the sort of tasting where, even though I was wearing my trade hat, I could feel my Amex quivering in my pocket for a pre-Christmas hit.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Let&#8217;s take at a few bank account drainers&#8230;</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0939-1024x768.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-47235" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0939-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0939-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0939-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0939-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0939-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0939-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0939.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Champagne Egly-Ouriet Les Crayères Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs NV</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">This is based on the 2017 vintage, disgorged in 2024. It&#8217;s incredibly detailed, extra-powerful, and vinous, a slightly too-serious Champagne that shows the glory and phenolic constraints of a Blanc de Noirs. There was an even more fancy <strong>Champagne Philipponnat Clos de Goisses Juste Rosé 2014</strong> alongside which looked rather simple compared to this ultra-detailed fizz. I didn&#8217;t write down any scores for these wines, but this would be a 95 or even a 96-point wine that I&#8217;d love to digest a bottle for an intellectual experience, even if it&#8217;s now a circa $900 experience. Someone buy me some.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs 2017</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">This was a highlight <a href="https://ozwinereview.com/2025/04/a-visit-to-champagne-larmandier-bernier.html" data-type="post" data-id="38476">at the winery last year</a>, and in this company, it looks like a relative steal. A more forward BdB in some lights, as befits these 2017s (apparently a random bag of a Champagne vintage with frost and heat and botrytis), but it&#8217;s also expansive and generous without losing shape, and proudly reflective of place and winemaker. This is my Champagne wheelhouse, and if we&#8217;re playing scores, 95 points no probs&#8230;</p>



<span id="more-47201"></span>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Verget Pouilly-Fuissé Le Haut de la Roche 2024</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">In Burgundy <a href="https://ozwinereview.com/2026/04/all-the-maconnais-hits-and-misses-from-the-grand-jours-de-bourgogne-2026.html" data-type="link" data-id="https://ozwinereview.com/2026/04/all-the-maconnais-hits-and-misses-from-the-grand-jours-de-bourgogne-2026.html">earlier in the year</a>, I called out just how impressive the &#8217;24 Pouilly-Fuissé wines looked, and here is more evidence. Some of the 2024 white Burgs from further north look a bit lean (and with no grapes), but it&#8217;s a more compelling vintage in the Maconnais. Anyway, this Verget is just lovely &#8211; there&#8217;s this interplay between ripe yellow fruit and a crystalline limestone acid profile that just feels, well, perfectly composed, in a quite tight and acidic, 1er Cru Chablis mode. This isn&#8217;t even an expensive wine, and blind, it would outpace many more fancied Burgundies.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Domaine Guffens-Heynen Mâcon-Pierreclos Tris de Chavigne 2023</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">I&#8217;ve had limited experience with this Mâcon unicorn producer, but again it&#8217;s not hard to see why they&#8217;re coveted with wines like this. Compared to the tighter and Chablis-esque cool-year Verget, this felt expressive, a grandiose white with layers of white and yellow fruit, a sort of swashbuckling intensity and a just-right oak-shaped middle. Grandiose stuff this, would be a 95-point wine on the Ozwinereview scale. Out of everything in this whole lineup, this is the wine I will be most likely to buy (also because I can almost afford it).</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0940-1024x768.jpg" alt="Château-Grillet 2022" class="wp-image-47236" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0940-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0940-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0940-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0940-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0940-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0940-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0940.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Château-Grillet 2022</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The outlier of all outliers. A wine with its own AOC, and all about Viognier, with fewer than 10,000 bottles produced each year. It&#8217;s a fascinating wine too &#8211; 110% Viognier expression; the creamed apricot width is inescapable, with a low-acid viscosity that feels like stone fruit in syrup (but not sweet). You feel like you&#8217;re sipping the wine of royalty; such is the luscious power. It&#8217;s creamy too, with the oak filling in any holes that the yellow peach and apricot fruit misses. For all that, this isn&#8217;t perfect &#8211; the warmth nags at the finish, which is not unusual in some 2022 Burgundies and indeed Rhône whites, with that slightly stunted hot year phenolic dryness rather than flowing easily through the finish. The rest of the package, however, is superb, and I&#8217;d love drinking this, even if I can&#8217;t stomach the circa $1500 pricetag in any form.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0941-1024x768.jpg" alt="Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener-Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2024" class="wp-image-47232" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0941-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0941-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0941-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0941-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0941-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0941-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0941.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener-Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2024</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">In the sweet spot. Literally. <strong>The Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2024</strong> version was alongside this wine, and it looked far less drinkable, tipping over into slightly too sweet (at least for the moment) without being luscious enough to be small-glass dessert territory. But this Kabinett? Delightful. The juiciness and the just-right acidity make it feel playful and affable, with a little ripe mandarin and even peach fruit with a profile that is so obviously inviting that you can easily skip over that line of sour lemon acidity. A joyful wine that would disappear in my glass.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0943-1024x768.jpg" alt="Cellier Saint Benoît Arbois Pupillin Côte de Feule Ploussard 2023" class="wp-image-47233" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0943-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0943-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0943-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0943-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0943-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0943-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0943.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Cellier Saint Benoît Arbois Pupillin Côte de Feule Ploussard 2023</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">From a pint-sized plot in the Jura, and apparently bugger all made, this is the definition of ethereal. It pours a very light pale orange-pink, heading more towards rosé than red, with this fine-boned dried herb and appley/orange/alpine raspberry fruit expression that feels like it&#8217;s red wine washed in a mountain stream. A limpid wine of acidity, but not hard; it&#8217;s beautiful stuff and a delicious drink. Esoteric, maybe, but Jura in its coolest light. I could drink bottles and bottles of this.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Arnaud Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Ma Cuvée 2023</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Without labouring another point, the most drinkable Burgundy is often not Grand Cru at all. This red, a village wine in the hierarchy, was served up alongside the <strong>Arnaud Mortet La Perrière 1er Cru 2023</strong> and the big dog <strong>Arnaud Mortet Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru 2022</strong>, and I&#8217;d probably take the red-fruited joy of this Ma Cuvée over both (the Grand Cru wine was especially dense and a bit blocky). Sometimes the &#8217;23 vintage Gevrey-Chambertin wines can be a bit foursquare, but this has brightness for days. A lovely Burgundy.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0942-1024x768.jpg" alt="Arnoux-Lachaux Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Procès 1er Cru 2022" class="wp-image-47237" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0942-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0942-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0942-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0942-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0942-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0942-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0942.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Arnoux-Lachaux Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Procès 1er Cru 2022</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Now we&#8217;re getting into unicorn land, although not quite as rare as the <strong>Arnoux-Lachaux</strong> <strong>Échezeaux Les Rouges 2022</strong>, which was served alongside it. Uniquely, both of these wines were matured in sandstone amphorae for three years and feel like a very different red Burgundy experience. There&#8217;s a distinct, pithy, stemmy, peppery flourish to this more affordable (cough, $1400+ a bottle vs probably $3k) wine that is whole bunches making their statement, but then a palate that feels incredibly vibrant and lively, without losing the dark red/black fruit Nuits-Saint-Georges power. The Échezeaux is darker, and a long way off drinkable, with an even moodier fruit profile and all sorts of swirling mystery (in a Burgundy way) &#8211; it&#8217;s different, but I&#8217;m not sure it&#8217;s a step up compared to the 1er Cru wine. Compared to the Mortet above, these are hardly easy wines, but cerebral things for anoraks (like me).</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Place of Changing Winds High Density Pinot Noir 2024</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">After tasting multi-thousand-dollar Burgundies, there&#8217;s always a risk an ambitious Australian wine served immediately will be overshadowed, but this release feels like a high water mark for Place of Changing Winds Pinot too. Rob Walters was on hand to pour this, and while he noted that being a vigneron is a love-hate thing when you wake up and realise how much work needs to be done every day, it&#8217;s a pleasure to see the wines in bottle. There is bugger all of this 2024 release after some poor flowering, but it&#8217;s seriously smart &#8211; a wine of cherries, red and black, with this flow of fruit that feels at once affable and yet deadly serious; the structure may be not quite as aggressive as the whole bunchy Burgundies, but well enough to be refreshing. A very impressive Macedon Ranges Pinot.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0944-1024x768.jpg" alt="Bannockburn Olive Tree Hill Pinot Noir 2025" class="wp-image-47234" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0944-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0944-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0944-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0944-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0944-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0944-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0944.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Bannockburn Olive Tree Hill Pinot Noir 2025</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Another local interloper, but didn&#8217;t look wildly out of place in this company, either. Drawn from some of the original plantings, I haven&#8217;t seen this wine before, and it very much feels like Bannockburn essence. There&#8217;s a fleshy red fruit roundness here in that earth-meets-glossy red fruit estate character that is always appealing. Again, I have zero context about previous vintages, but there is a certain &#8217;25 warmth here that makes it a bit primary too. Easily enjoyable, maybe not profound, but also has a site expression that is very welcome and a texture that is very moreish.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Massolino Barolo 2022</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">TBH, the Barolo is just the entree to this story, because really we&#8217;re talking about a bracket here, with the <strong>Massolino Langhe Nebbiolo 2024</strong> and <strong>Massolino Barolo Vigna Rionda Riserva 2017</strong> all in the conversation. Let&#8217;s start with the Langhe Nebbiolo, which somewhat defied my expectations given that some &#8217;24 Piedmont releases tend a little lean and acidic (like the Ceretto <a href="https://ozwinereview.com/2026/06/the-challenge-and-the-glory-of-the-new-ceretto-releases.html" data-type="link" data-id="https://ozwinereview.com/2026/06/the-challenge-and-the-glory-of-the-new-ceretto-releases.html">here</a>). This Massolino offering was quite refreshing though, with a light alpine feel, a little chinotto bittersweetness and plenty of brightness to it. Not quite the usual tarry mid-palate richness, but quite an enjoyable drink. The &#8217;22 Barolo comes from another hard vintage too, with a very hot, very dry season making for wines that often feel blocky and less refreshing, especially compared to the fantastic 2021 (or the <a href="https://ozwinereview.com/2019/07/ever-wanted-to-know-why-people-love-barolo-this-massolino-barolo-2015-shows-why.html" data-type="link" data-id="https://ozwinereview.com/2019/07/ever-wanted-to-know-why-people-love-barolo-this-massolino-barolo-2015-shows-why.html">2015</a> for that matter). I feel like Massolino bucked the trend a little here too, with a wine that is a bit more smudgy and new world-ish in its roundness, yet still quintessentially Barolo. I wish I could be as enthusiastic about the &#8217;17 Vigna Rionda, though. I loved the <a href="https://ozwinereview.com/2025/05/what-have-you-been-buying-and-drinking-this-may-2025.html" data-type="link" data-id="https://ozwinereview.com/2025/05/what-have-you-been-buying-and-drinking-this-may-2025.html">2016 big brother of this wine to bits</a>, and the <a href="https://ozwinereview.com/2019/07/magnificent-massolino-vigna-rionda-barolo-2013.html" data-type="link" data-id="https://ozwinereview.com/2019/07/magnificent-massolino-vigna-rionda-barolo-2013.html">2013 is a wonder</a>, so I had high hopes (and indeed I have some of the other 2017 Massolino Cru wines in the cellar). But there&#8217;s a riserva oaky hearty forwardness here that I can&#8217;t shake &#8211; that reminder that keeping your best wines in oak for longer and releasing them later doesn&#8217;t necessarily make for more deliciousness (also called the &#8216;why Chianti Gran Selezione is often disappointing&#8217; rule). Important to note it&#8217;s not a bad wine, but less would be more.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"></p>
<p>The post <a href="https://ozwinereview.com/2026/10/in-the-deep-end-chateau-grillet-egly-ouriet-arnoux-lachaux-etc.html">In the deep end: Château-Grillet, Egly-Ouriet, Arnoux-Lachaux etc</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ozwinereview.com">Australian Wine and Drinks Review</a>.</p>
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		<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">47201</post-id>	</item>
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		<title>A few wine lists + deliciousness from Yattarna to new Swinney</title>
		<link>https://ozwinereview.com/2026/10/a-few-wine-lists-deliciousness-from-yattarna-to-new-swinney.html</link>
					<comments>https://ozwinereview.com/2026/10/a-few-wine-lists-deliciousness-from-yattarna-to-new-swinney.html#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Andrew Graham]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Oct 2026 20:23:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Wine]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://ozwinereview.com/?p=47135</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[<img width="450" height="350" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0904-450x350.jpg?crop=1" class="webfeedsFeaturedVisual wp-post-image" alt="Penfolds Yattarna 2023" style="display: block; margin: auto; margin-bottom: 5px;max-width: 100%;" link_thumbnail="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" /><p>The last week of September at our house revolves around two key events, and neither involves footy.</p>
<p>One is Mrs Ozwinereview's bday, which demands a cellar raid for tasty things to drink in celebration in honour of the biggest supporter of this website. The second is the Australian Wine List of the Year Awards, which demands that I do my official judge duty, stand on a stage, and hand out oversized award placards to deserving venues, before enjoying (small pours of) tasty things to drink in celebration.</p>
<p>And there were some really delicious drinks this year too....</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://ozwinereview.com/2026/10/a-few-wine-lists-deliciousness-from-yattarna-to-new-swinney.html">A few wine lists + deliciousness from Yattarna to new Swinney</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ozwinereview.com">Australian Wine and Drinks Review</a>.</p>
]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<img width="450" height="350" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0904-450x350.jpg?crop=1" class="webfeedsFeaturedVisual wp-post-image" alt="Penfolds Yattarna 2023" style="display: block; margin: auto; margin-bottom: 5px;max-width: 100%;" link_thumbnail="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" />
<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The last week of September at our house revolves around two key events, and neither involves footy.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">One is Mrs Ozwinereview&#8217;s bday, which demands a cellar raid for tasty things to drink in honour of the biggest supporter of this website. The second is the Australian Wine List of the Year Awards, which demands that I do my official judge duty, stand on a stage, and hand out oversized award placards to deserving venues, before enjoying (small pours of) tasty things to drink in celebration.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">And there were some really delicious drinks this year too.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">We&#8217;ll cover some of the wines actually consumed next week in the usual &#8216;what have you been drinking&#8217; roundup. Before then, a word on wine lists.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">As has been the tradition in recent years, last Monday was spent speed-dating with sommeliers. I&#8217;ve been judging the WLOTY awards for about a decade now, and as part of the process, there is an opportunity for anyone from a venue to interrogate a selection of judges about why their list hasn&#8217;t won yet/how to win&#8230;</p>



<span id="more-47135"></span>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">This is an occasionally uncomfortable part of the event, as it requires some frank convos about lists that are way off the mark. That said, this is less common &#8211; it&#8217;s mostly fun. as you instead get to understand the ways venues actually work, as spoken by human beings who indeed live the service (you can see a pic of me on slide two in the insta post below handing out happy vibes last year).</p>



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</div></figure>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">This year, we even had one of the somms from the winner (<a data-type="link" data-id="https://www.winelistoftheyear.com.au/wine-list-year-winners/" href="https://www.winelistoftheyear.com.au/wine-list-year-winners/">Society</a>) sit down and ask how they could win. For the record, only a handful of people know the winners; I wasn&#8217;t one of them, but it was still a struggle to nitpick what a deserving winning list this is. Similarly, the joyful part about this speed dating element is telling sommeliers/owners/venue managers, etc. that their passion-play wine list they&#8217;re unsure about is actually really good.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Anyway, while all this is happening, there is a whole room full of sommeliers etc. in another room (a very large room, as the past two years have been in the big NSW Parliament House function area) on a tasting trail where wines, a few beers and the odd cocktail flow very freely. It gets a bit loose as the awards ceremony pushes on, and the beer eventually runs out in tandem, but the quality of the drinks on offer is uniformly excellent.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">I had a very brief look at a few things, and there&#8217;s some worth writing home about (but please understand these were tastes snatched in between handing out awards, so they&#8217;re vibes).</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0904-1024x768.jpg" alt="Penfolds Yattarna 2023" class="wp-image-47168" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0904-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0904-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0904-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0904-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0904-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0904-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0904.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Firstly, I was uninvited from the annual Penfolds tasting a decade ago because I was too critical of the wines, and the only things I really miss seeing are the Chardies. The Adelaide Hills Bin A Chardonnay pops up in wine trade land, and it&#8217;s typically delightful, but this newish <strong>Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay 2023</strong> is a reminder of what I&#8217;m missing out on. Largely Tassie fruit, as it has been for some time, it&#8217;s a full-meal wine, with this grapefruit fruit/fine-grained oak tension that is super high quality. It feels very Tasmanian, if you like, in a pure quality way. Interestingly (or at least to me, because I&#8217;m out of the Penfolds loop and don&#8217;t know this), the Penfolds Bin 311 Chardonnay 2025 alongside it is now from very similar fruit sources, which makes Yattarna a barrel selection (though it does see more new oak). 311 wasn&#8217;t anywhere near the same quality tier, though; it looked primal and incomplete with two less years. I could have skipped the <strong>Penfolds Champagne Rosé NV</strong> too, which just felt fully priced (circa $100). The structure of the <strong>Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz 2024</strong> also on the table felt very classic, though &#8211; that part of the Penfolds equation hasn&#8217;t changed.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">For a poignant counterpoint to the Penfolds Champagne, the <strong>House of Arras Grand Vintage 2017</strong> at the other end of the room was similarly priced (a few dollars more on the RRP) but twice the wine. I often feel like there&#8217;s a bit of tall poppy syndrome with the Arras wines (they&#8217;re expensive for Aussie sparklers, etc etc.), but consistently the complexity of that long-lees-aged vintage release is pretty grand.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0903-1024x768.jpg" alt="Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier 2024" class="wp-image-47170" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0903-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0903-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0903-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0903-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0903-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0903-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0903.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Meanwhile, the new&nbsp;<strong>Clonakilla O&#8217;Riada Shiraz 2024</strong>,&nbsp;a few tables around from Arras, was a wine I&#8217;d like to drink. There&#8217;s a clever balance between spice, red fruit and Canberra-ness in that wine, which is extra impressive. Yes, the <strong>Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier 2024</strong> next to it has the swagger, it has the perfume, it has this silken texture, but the detail of the (very fairly priced) O&#8217;Riada was a winner. A strong vintage for both wines, though, and very worthy buys.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Curiously, I had the <strong>Mount Edelstone Shiraz 2022</strong> almost immediately after and was whelmed. The oak looked a fraction dominant, the mode less complex, the form less Eden and more Barossa Valley floor chunky. Good, but not top-of-the-pile great. As a direct comparison to the detailed &#8211; and considerably cheaper &#8211; Clonakilla wines, I can&#8217;t fathom it.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Finally, there was a quick try of the new <strong>Thomas Wines Braemore Semillon 2026</strong>, which was actually rather enjoyable, further underlining how much more approachable Thommo has made that wine as a youngster in recent vintages. The <strong>Thomas Wines Cellar Reserve Braemore Semillon 2019</strong> is in a good zone now too. It&#8217;s a riper vintage wine, and I think the warmer years often make the best Hunter Sem. No hurry, and I&#8217;d buy plenty.</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading">New Swinney</h2>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Let&#8217;s move on to another highlight from last week: a flying Rob Mann visit with some brand-new Swinney releases.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">I&#8217;d totally forgotten that the Swinney family bought the old Brookland Valley site off Accolade back in 2022 and have now embarked on a mission to give Swinney a proper cellar door/home in Margaret River. Rob, who is more than just a winemaker for Swinney, is helping envisage what this looks like, including rebooting the old Flutes restaurant (once considered an icon of Margaret River winery restos) and even embracing luxury accommodation.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0911-1024x768.jpg" alt="Swinney Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2025" class="wp-image-47169" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0911-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0911-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0911-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0911-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0911-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0911-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0911.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Interestingly, Accolade have contracted back most of the fruit from the Brookland Valley vineyard, but this year there is a brand new <strong>Swinney Margaret River Chardonnay 2025</strong> and a <strong>Swinney Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2025</strong> (pictured above). It&#8217;s only the Chardonnay that comes off that site for now though, with the Cabernet drawn from Rob&#8217;s Calgardup Vineyard inland from Redgate Beach in southern Margaret River.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">There&#8217;s such a Margaret River classic stamp in that Swinney Chardonnay too. As Rob explains, it&#8217;s a block with Gingin clone Chardonnay vines, and the grapefruit acid shape is unmistakable. The wine is still way too young, with oak a dominant force for now, though the lines are very classy. The headline act is the Swinney Cabernet through, which has star power. With more new oak than Rob&#8217;s Corymbia Cabernet, it&#8217;s so polished, seamless, and inviting that it could bring people back to the Cabernet fold.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Notably, a Swinney Cabernet from the ex-Brookland Valley vineyard might be a way off, though. Rob sees a certain herbaceous character in that fruit that, while it has a place, can be too dominant. That&#8217;s quite a contrast to the Calgardup Vineyard, which, although it sits in the cool southern end of Margaret River, is actually a warmer, early-ripening site perfectly suited to Cabernet (and it shows).</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Meanwhile, heading back to the Frankland vineyard, I very much liked the new <strong>Swinney Riesling 2026</strong> as well, which has a sort of archetypal Frankland River green fruit power that feels at once powerfully tight yet immediately drinkable. The tannic profile of the new <strong>Swinney Grenache 2025</strong> is really quite remarkable too &#8211; they&#8217;re powdery tannins, reflecting how much Rob aims for a bit more Grenache grip (and it works). Although when pressed, Rob still thinks the bush vine Mourvèdre is the best grape on the Swinney vineyard, and the&nbsp;<strong>Swinney Mourvèdre 2025</strong>&nbsp;shows an ability to cope with even the endless dry heat of a record dry vintage, while delivering the trademark varietal black fruit and some black jelly bean fruit generosity.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Indeed, the only wine I can&#8217;t quite warm to is the <strong>Swinney Rosé 2025</strong>, which feels stuck between being a fresh and approachable modern rosé and a slightly more phenolic and layered Bandol-esque powerhouse. Ambitious rosé, yes, but it gets overshadowed in this company. I&#8217;d buy the new Cabernet, some Grenache, drink a bottle of Riesling and wait for later before cracking some Chardonnay.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"></p>
<p>The post <a href="https://ozwinereview.com/2026/10/a-few-wine-lists-deliciousness-from-yattarna-to-new-swinney.html">A few wine lists + deliciousness from Yattarna to new Swinney</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ozwinereview.com">Australian Wine and Drinks Review</a>.</p>
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		<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">47135</post-id>	</item>
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		<title>The 2026 Riesling Rosé and aromatic roundup</title>
		<link>https://ozwinereview.com/2026/10/the-2026-riesling-rose-and-aromatic-roundup.html</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Andrew Graham]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 02 Oct 2026 04:51:57 +0000</pubDate>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://ozwinereview.com/?p=46951</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[<img width="450" height="350" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0571-450x350.jpg?crop=1" class="webfeedsFeaturedVisual wp-post-image" alt="VS&amp;B Obstgarten T Riesling 2025" style="display: block; margin: auto; margin-bottom: 5px;max-width: 100%;" link_thumbnail="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" /><p>'When it comes to whites, I’ll happily guzzle Riesling and Chardonnay for the rest of my life'.</p>
<p>That was a comment on my dive into Pinot Gris/textural whites, and it's a very fair sentiment. A peek into the trusty Ozwinereview cellar sheet confirms that my cellar is dominated by Chard, Riesling and Hunter Valley Semillon. But then again, I also love drinking Smaragd Grüner, Bordeaux blanc, Alsace blends, etc., which I'm definitely not giving up.</p>
<p>Anyway, today's dive into the sample pile has a Riesling focus. Or at least it started that way, and then I added a few aromatic whites/crisp interlopers and rosé to this lineup too (and I'll do Chardonnay next week) for balance.</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://ozwinereview.com/2026/10/the-2026-riesling-rose-and-aromatic-roundup.html">The 2026 Riesling Rosé and aromatic roundup</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ozwinereview.com">Australian Wine and Drinks Review</a>.</p>
]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<img width="450" height="350" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/img_0571-450x350.jpg?crop=1" class="webfeedsFeaturedVisual wp-post-image" alt="VS&amp;B Obstgarten T Riesling 2025" style="display: block; margin: auto; margin-bottom: 5px;max-width: 100%;" link_thumbnail="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" />
<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><em>&#8216;When it comes to whites, I’ll happily guzzle Riesling and Chardonnay for the rest of my life&#8217;.</em></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">That was a comment on my dive into Pinot Gris/textural whites, and it&#8217;s a very fair sentiment. A peek into the trusty Ozwinereview cellar sheet confirms that my cellar is dominated by Chard, Riesling and Hunter Valley Semillon. But then again, I also love drinking Smaragd Grüner, Bordeaux blanc, Alsace blends, etc., which I&#8217;m definitely not giving up.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Anyway, today&#8217;s dive into the sample pile has a Riesling focus. Or at least it started that way, and then I added a few aromatic whites/crisp interlopers and rosé to this lineup too (and I&#8217;ll do Chardonnay next week) for balance.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Let&#8217;s look at some wines:</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading">A note on scoring</h2>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">You&#8217;ll see I&#8217;ve added a medal for the better wines in this lineup too, which I&#8217;ll do going forward. That&#8217;s to remind you that lots of nice wines deserve a silver medal, and a silver is a good thing&#8230;</p>




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<p>The post <a href="https://ozwinereview.com/2026/10/the-2026-riesling-rose-and-aromatic-roundup.html">The 2026 Riesling Rosé and aromatic roundup</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ozwinereview.com">Australian Wine and Drinks Review</a>.</p>
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		<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">46951</post-id>	</item>
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		<title>A 2026 dive into Pinot Gris and textural whites (with mixed results)</title>
		<link>https://ozwinereview.com/2026/09/a-2026-dive-into-pinot-gris-and-textural-whites-with-mixed-results.html</link>
					<comments>https://ozwinereview.com/2026/09/a-2026-dive-into-pinot-gris-and-textural-whites-with-mixed-results.html#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Andrew Graham]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 24 Sep 2026 05:46:00 +0000</pubDate>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://ozwinereview.com/?p=46450</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[<img width="450" height="350" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0696-450x350.jpg?crop=1" class="webfeedsFeaturedVisual wp-post-image" alt="Renzaglia Pinot Gris 2025" style="display: block; margin: auto; margin-bottom: 5px;max-width: 100%;" link_thumbnail="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" /><p>Pinot Gris/Grigio is wildly frustrating. Between deliciously textured Alsace-style indulgence and finessed Friulian delight lies an ocean of flavourless wines and awkwardly sweet misses.</p>
<p>But there is some greatness in among the wobbliness</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://ozwinereview.com/2026/09/a-2026-dive-into-pinot-gris-and-textural-whites-with-mixed-results.html">A 2026 dive into Pinot Gris and textural whites (with mixed results)</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ozwinereview.com">Australian Wine and Drinks Review</a>.</p>
]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<img width="450" height="350" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0696-450x350.jpg?crop=1" class="webfeedsFeaturedVisual wp-post-image" alt="Renzaglia Pinot Gris 2025" style="display: block; margin: auto; margin-bottom: 5px;max-width: 100%;" link_thumbnail="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" />
<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Pinot Gris/Grigio is wildly frustrating. Between deliciously textured Alsace-style indulgence and finessed Friulian delight lies an ocean of flavourless wines and awkwardly sweet misses.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Actually, it&#8217;s not just Gris/Grigio; a bunch of textural whites are wildly inconsistent. Like barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc, where the promise of oak can deliver fragrance and body, but so many wines taste like woody, sour lemon-dill wine. Or Viognier, which occasionally tastes like hedonistic peach nectar but mostly tastes like dropped apricots.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">All of which adds up to a bunch of wines I occasionally love, but also annoy me enough with their vagaries that I skimp on tasting them, until the sample pile starts overflowing into the loungeroom (which annoys Mrs Ozwinereview no end).</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">So today, I&#8217;m diving headlong into the stash, with a bunch of Pinot Gris, fumé Sauv, Fiano and other mouthfilling white wines to work through.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Come on, let&#8217;s go on this somewhat frustrating and occasionally great journey together.</p>



<span id="more-46450"></span>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0844-1024x768.jpg" alt="Samantha May Citrine 2025" class="wp-image-46794" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0844-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0844-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0844-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0844-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0844-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0844-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0844.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Samantha May Citrine 2025</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Let&#8217;s start on a high note with a very clever Australian skin-contact style I like. It&#8217;s made from Orange Riesling with 8 months on skins. Yes, an orange wine from orange, just to mess with some heads. This smells amazing. Fancy soap, florals, pineapple, linalool; for all that pretty floral, it’s also tangy, linear, yet balances the phenolic punch so well. Never feels too dry, yet has lots of drive and singing with pretty florals and this perfect line of lemon rind fruit tang. What great balance for a skin contact style. Really grows on you too. </p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: good now. <strong>18.5/20, 94/100</strong>. 11%, $35. Would I buy it? A bottle in a flash.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0843-e1790173034397-1024x768.jpg" alt="Yangarra Ovitelli Blanc 2024" class="wp-image-46796" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0843-e1790173034397-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0843-e1790173034397-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0843-e1790173034397-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0843-e1790173034397-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0843-e1790173034397-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0843-e1790173034397-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0843-e1790173034397.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Yangarra Ovitelli Blanc 2024</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Another high bar, and a wine that is as much a winemaking exercise as an interesting drink. This Yangarra white is a blend of Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc, Clairette and  Roussanne. It’s quite summery smelling &#8211; buttercup, lemon and vanilla (but not oak vanilla) in a quite bright and lifted form. The interest is on the palate &#8211; it&#8217;s grippy, with this lemon phenolic whack that feels a bit brutish, despite the appeal of the marzipan white flower contrasts. It&#8217;s not easy, but hot dog, does this wine have some presence, as it just goes on throwing textures everywhere. Almost a gold medal wine on the palate depths alone, even if it&#8217;s not necessarily an easy drink.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: nowish, no hurry, it might even settle some more. <strong>18/20, 93/100</strong>. 13.5%, $65. Would I buy it? A few glasses.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2907-1024x768.jpg" alt="First Ridge Vermentino 2025" class="wp-image-46804" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2907-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2907-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2907-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2907-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2907-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2907-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2907.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">First Ridge Vermentino 2025</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">This is a very good Vermentino. Mudgee has some of the oldest plantings of Sangiovese and Barbera in the country, so why not put quality Vermentino into the mix? The First Ridge Vineyard is as much a grower operation, selling fruit to plenty of Mudgee makers. This white carries the vineyard branding, though, and it&#8217;s certainly varietal. Tart, crisp, varietal. It feels like a proper Vermentino with that saline tang &#8211; I could be in Sardinia (take me back). Arguably it lacks some generosity, but it&#8217;s fresh, direct, and has enough beyond simple white pear fruit to be enjoyable.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: nowish. <strong>17.7/20, 92/100</strong>. 12%, $28. Would I buy it? Worth a few glasses.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2498-1024x768.jpg" alt="Juxtaposed Lacey Vineyard Fiano 2025" class="wp-image-46810" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2498-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2498-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2498-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2498-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2498-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2498-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2498.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Juxtaposed Lacey Vineyard Fiano 2025</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Wes Pearson sources this Fiano from the Lacey Vineyard on the sand in Tatachilla, McLaren Vale. It&#8217;s a waxy wine with preserved-lemon tang, the mode just a little sweet and sour, but also long and mouthfilling. Dead serious Fiano this.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: nowish. <strong>17.7/20, 92/100</strong>. 12.8%, $33. Would I buy it? A glass or two.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Nomads Garden Pinot Blanc 2024</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">I somehow let this slip through the cracks, and yet it still looks good, even though Ben must be onto 2026 almost by now. Anyway, from the Bellevue Vineyard in the King Valley, it&#8217;s light, cool and contained. Finessed and fresh with this tone of lovely white peachy, gentle-but-proper tart fruit. A delicate wine rather than a ripe one, maybe a bit lean but lovely refinement and liveliness. </p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: now. <strong>17.7/20, 92/100</strong>. 12.3%, $27. Would I buy it? A glass or two.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0018-1024x768.jpg" alt="Parish Vineyards Pinot Gris 2025" class="wp-image-46800" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0018-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0018-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0018-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0018-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0018-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0018-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0018.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Parish Vineyards Pinot Gris 2025</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Parish Vineyards is part of the Hill Smith family&#8217;s Tasmanian brand portfolio, with the juice here from the Evandale Parish (in the Tamar Valley) and includes some barrel-matured parcels. Delicate and lightly fragrant, with a linalool note, clear lychee, and a hint of lemongrass. Delicate and nice powdered sorbet sort of delicacy. Lovely varietal mode and very crisp; just leans a little lean to be really slam-dunk great. </p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: now. <strong>17.7/20, 92/100</strong>. 12%, $35. Would I buy it? A glass or two.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0696-1024x768.jpg" alt="Renzaglia Pinot Gris 2025" class="wp-image-46795" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0696-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0696-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0696-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0696-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0696-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0696-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0696.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Renzaglia Pinot Gris 2025</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">From the ChaLou Vineyard in Orange. Coppery highlights. A gentle, powdery style with delicacy and fine strawberry and light pear fruit with surprisingly gentle lightness. A pretty wine but perhaps a little too delicate. </p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: nowish. <strong>17.7/20, 92/100</strong>. 12.5%, $39. Would I buy it? A glass or two. </p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2520-1024x768.jpg" alt="Soumah Savarro 2025" class="wp-image-46811" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2520-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2520-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2520-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2520-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2520-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2520-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2520.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Soumah Savarro 2025</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Savarro is another name for Savagnin. This is a pithy, fresh thing too, all grapefruit and lemon with a musky flourish, complete with some lantana florals. Some vintages this has looked a bit simple, but a little more concentration gets it over the line in 2025. Good solid drink. </p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: <strong>17.7/20, 92/100.</strong> 13%, $35. Would I buy it? A glass or two.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Terre à Terre Crayères Reserve Fumé Blanc 2024</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">This barrel-fermented Sauv always take a few years to come together, although I think this vintage has a little more roundness. A pineapple and passionfruit varietal flourish to start, then it gets tight and grainy with passionfruit cream and a surprisingly ripe juiciness through the middle. Open and plump sort of thing rather than profound. Has a nice sense of juicy primary energy, though maybe not a profound reserve wine yet. Entirely likeable for now, if transitional. </p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: next year. <strong>17.7/20, 92/100.</strong> 13.5%, $59. Would I buy it? A glass or two.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Yangarra Roux Beauté Roussanne 2024</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Like the Ovitelli, this is all matured in concrete egg, but this cuvée is all Roussanne. Such a complex wine here again; golden yellow, there&#8217;s this waxy, emon and yellow fruit mid-palate. There&#8217;s the same preserved tannic lemon and great drive here too, though the back end feels a bit warm and drying rather than generous. Lots happening here, though. </p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: now. <strong>17.7/20, 92/100. </strong>14%, $65. Would I buy it? A glass or two.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Curly Flat Pinot Gris 2025</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Probably the ugly duckling in the Curly Flat range, this Macedon Pinot Gris at least delivers some layers. It has a bronze tinge, and the palate shows slightly oxidative elements from whole-bunch-pressed fruit and barrel maturation. The Alsace intentions continue with creamy yellow apple and brown pear fruit textures on what is a medium-bodied palate, although the fruit ultimately can&#8217;t quite deal with the more phenolic oxidative intentions, and the acid is a bit low to keep it together. It’s plenty interesting but not complete. </p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: now. <strong>17.5/20, 91/100</strong>. 13.9%, $32, Would I buy it? A glass.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0151-1024x768.jpg" alt="Vasse Felix Filius Sauvignon Blanc 2025" class="wp-image-46798" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0151-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0151-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0151-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0151-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0151-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0151-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0151.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Vasse Felix Filius Sauvignon Blanc 2025</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Margaret River Sauv, and 2/3rds of the blend is matured for 5 months in barrel. Ripe and concentrated thing too. You don’t see the oak, but a sheen of wood adds some texture. Lemony. A little grassy pyrazine snappiness, but more ripe citrus than anything. That&#8217;s the good and the bad parts &#8211; not much really jumps out here, it just glides on past with some lemony tang. Solid drink.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: now. <strong>17.5/20, 91/100</strong>. 13%, $28. Would I buy it? A glass or two.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0064-1024x768.jpg" alt="Castello di Meleto Simbionte Bianco 2023" class="wp-image-46799" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0064-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0064-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0064-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0064-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0064-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0064-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0064.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Castello di Meleto Simbionte Bianco 2023</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">This is a nutty, golden Tuscan white (a classic Trebbiano blend) matured in an acacia oak that feels like a flashback wine with a real old-school feel. Lemon, grilled nuts, preserved lemon, and honey. It&#8217;s round, full, looks a bit languid and broad, with a forwardness marked by a little aldehyde that blunts the energy a bit. There&#8217;s quite a mouthful of wine here, though. </p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: right now.<strong> 17/20, 90/100.</strong> 13.5%, $95. Would I buy it? Probably not.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Deep Down Marlborough Blanc 2025</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">An odd blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. Other vintages have been a rather round mouthful, but this year feels like it&#8217;s missing the wildness. Tight, grapefruit-y with a bit of white flower coolness, then a palate of white peach and white fruit. It&#8217;s fresh, with a Chablis-like linearity but at the cost of much expression. I want a bit more.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: nowish. <strong>17/20, 90/100</strong>. 12%, $55. Would I buy it? A glass.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2130-1024x768.jpg" alt="Tolloy Pinot Grigio 2024" class="wp-image-46807" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2130-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2130-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2130-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2130-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2130-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2130-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2130.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Tolloy Pinot Grigio 2024</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Sourced from Alto Adige, this leans into the riper Grigio mode rather than a &#8216;flavourless alcoholic water&#8217; style and is all the better for it. Broad-brushed apple and pear, a softer, lighter and rounder mode of light pear fruit. Not a big impact for this alcohol, but has nice soft edges and a varietal stamp with a little honey juiciness to finish. Entirely drinkable. </p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: now. <strong>17/20, 90/100</strong>. 13%, $45. Would I buy it? Maybe a glass.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Yalumba Samuels Collection Roussanne 2025</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">There&#8217;s plenty of slightly phenolic red apple fruit, but it’s otherwise a bit indistinct. You can see the grippy apple texture to finish too. Quality-wise, it&#8217;s hardly poor; hence the silver medal score. It&#8217;s just a bit characterless. </p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: now. 17/20, 90/100. 13%, $28. Would I buy it? A glass at a push.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Aloft Pinot Gris 2025</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">For $18, this is a rock-solid Pinot Gris from an Adelaide Hills brand that does it just fine for the dollars. Light pink coloured, this has ripe red apple and yellow peach fruit, in a fleshy, simple, fruity, plenty crisp mode. It&#8217;s a bit short, but does exactly what it should.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: now. <strong>16.8/20, 89/100</strong>. 12%, $20. Would I buy it? A glass.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Castel Firmian Pinot Grigio 2024</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Texture is the name of the game here, with plenty of yellow pear texture. Certainly more than just another Trentino Pinot Grigio with yellow and white pear lusciouensss, if just a bit clumsy (rather than fresh) to finish. </p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: now. <strong>16.8/20, 89/100</strong>. 12.5%, $35. Would I buy it? Probably not.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2157-1024x768.jpg" alt="Domaine Galuval La Vallée Cairanne Blanc 2019" class="wp-image-46806" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2157-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2157-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2157-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2157-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2157-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2157-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2157.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Domaine Galuval La Vallée Cairanne Blanc 2019</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">I’m not sure the age has done this Côtes du Rhône Blanc any favours. It’s a soft, warm, honeyed, golden buttercup of a sunshine wine that tends to chubbiness. The lemon and orange fruit is fighting against the toasty advance to keep shape. There’s a nice buttercup lode here, but it’s ultimately broad, diffuse and too expensive to be great. </p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: now. <strong>16.8/20, 89/100</strong>. 14%, $100. Would I buy it? No.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Duca Catemario Pinot Grigio 2024</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Collio Pinot Grigio. Clean lines, a faint bronze hue, light, saline, clean and just a little waxy and leans lighter than the 13.5% alcohol suggests. Crisp and delineated, there isn&#8217;t much of anything beyond light, hard green pear. Not strictly short but not much intensity. Refreshing though. </p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: now. <strong>16.8/20, 89/100</strong>. 13.5%, $33. Would I buy it? A glass.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">First Ridge Fiano 2025</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Mudgee Fiano. Blink, and you miss it. A little wax and lemon balm with tangy correct fruit and not much else. Pleasant and refreshing but a bit unremarkable. </p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: now.<strong> 16.8/20, 89/100</strong>. 12.5%, $30. Would I buy it? Maybe a glass.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Gundog Estate Indomitus Albus 2025</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Matt Burton&#8217;s Indomitus experiments are always fascinating, even if they don&#8217;t always work. This is Hunter Semillon, wild-fermented, with a portion that spends 175 days on skins. Oh, and numbers for the anoraks &#8211; pH 3.18, TA 6.3G/L. RS 3.9g/L. A curious, compact wine. There’s a little grilled nuts and yellow fruit escaping, but otherwise it’s tight and quiet, with little fruit flavour and more about phenolics and apple-y acid. It doesn’t show much at all, which makes this harder than it should be, despite the obvious length. </p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: I don&#8217;t know. Obviously later. Give it five, maybe. <strong>16.8/20, 89/100.</strong> 10.2%, $40. Would I buy it? No.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_1956-1024x768.jpg" alt="Longview Queenie Pinot Grigio 2025" class="wp-image-46809" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_1956-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_1956-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_1956-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_1956-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_1956-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_1956-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_1956.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Longview Queenie Pinot Grigio 2025</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Everything in its right place with this Adelaide Hills Grigio, but it&#8217;s just a little underdone. Celery, grapefruit, crunchy, doesn’t taste like much at all. Greenish flavours and all quite muted. Fresh though.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: now. <strong>16.8/20, 89/100</strong>. 11.5%, $28. Would I buy it? No.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0699-1024x768.jpg" alt="Anvers Pinot Gris Gewürztraminer 2025" class="wp-image-46793" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0699-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0699-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0699-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0699-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0699-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0699-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0699.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Anvers Pinot Gris Gewürztraminer 2025</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Light and crunchy but doesn’t taste or smell of anything. Just a little linalool and pear, but so fleeting. Fresh crunch but missing any flavour. A surprise for this ripeness. </p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: now. <strong>16.5/20, 88/100</strong>. 13.5%, $26. Would I buy it? No.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Cupitts Arneis 2024</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">From the Pankhurst vineyard at Wallaroo (Canberra district). Chalky, forward, and indistinct; there&#8217;s some pear and a palate of chalky snappiness, but not much else. Missing a beat.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: now. <strong>16.5/20, 88/100</strong>. 13%, $34. Would I buy it? No.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Gundog Estate Off-Dry Semillon 2025</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">I&#8217;m yet to love one of these off-dry Hunter Sems, and we&#8217;re now twenty-six years down. Anyway, this doesn’t immediately smell sweet. Grapefruit and green apple, but then the sugar hits you like a wave. Short finish. This is a one-toned thing. Not poor quality, but a blunt instrument. </p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: now. <strong>16.5/20, 88/100.</strong> 7.5%, $32. Would I buy it? No.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Feudo Arancio Inzolia 2024</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">One of the most workmanlike wines in the typically good Feudo Arancio Sicilian range. Tart, chalky, neutral, acid- and phenolic-driven wine that doesn’t offer much of anything besides waxy tart fruit. It’s proper acidic but I want a few more highlights.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: now. <strong>16.5/20, 88/100</strong>. 13%, $20. Would I buy it? No.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Holm Oak Arneis 2025</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Arneis can be a hard variety to get the expression right. Anyway, this Tassie version packs in some stonefruit with a slightly shrill peachy palate that’s a bit forward, the edges going a bit flabby, the mode white pear and peach. Curiously flat. </p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: now. <strong>16.5/20, 88/100</strong>. 13.5%, $32. Would I buy it? No.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2834-1024x768.jpg" alt="Holm Oak Pinot Gris 2025" class="wp-image-46815" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2834-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2834-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2834-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2834-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2834-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2834-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2834.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Holm Oak Pinot Gris 2025</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">A little pink flourish suggests this is a riper wine, and indeed there is ripe pear and low acid. It’s forward and juicy, a simple, apple-y fresh sort of mode. Pleasant drinking. </p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: now. <strong>16.5/20, 88/100.</strong> 12.5%, $21.95. Would I buy it? No.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Kyneton Ridge Vermentino 2025</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Macedon is hardly the first place I&#8217;d be going to for Vermentino. Anyway, this has a little floral flourish, but otherwise an indistinct nose. Clear green fruit underneath, but again, a bit of nothing. Curiously broad finish for what is a proper cool-climate site too. Hmm.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: now. <strong>16.5/20, 88/100. </strong>12.5%, $35. Would I buy it? No.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2865-1024x768.jpg" alt="Soumah Nebbiolo Bianco 2025" class="wp-image-46812" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2865-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2865-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2865-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2865-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2865-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2865-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2865.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Soumah Nebbiolo Bianco 2025</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Yarra Valley Fiano (aka Nebbiolo Bianco). Lightly floral estery nose, but it lacks definition. Palate follows with clean, tart lemon lightness and not much else.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: now. <strong>16.5/20, 88/100</strong>. 12.8%, $35. Would I buy it? No.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2560-1024x768.jpg" alt="Tahbilk Pinot Gris 2025" class="wp-image-46813" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2560-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2560-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2560-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2560-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2560-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2560-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2560.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Tahbilk Pinot Gris 2025</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Another, more pink and ripe fruit take on the style; it&#8217;s low acid, with some brown pear fruit and a plump apple and pear pie palate. Drink up as it&#8217;s starting to get a bit chunky. </p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: now. <strong>16.5/20, 88/100</strong>. 12.5%, $21.95. Would I buy it? No.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Tahbilk Viognier 2025</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Flabby and a bit flat, it’s a fair varietal take with peach and apricot juice, though with a cardboard edge and some unremarkable flab to finish. It’s plenty juicy, though, which is a big part of the appeal. </p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: now. <strong>16.5/20, 88/100.</strong> 13.5%, $21.95. Would I buy it? No.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2526-1024x768.jpg" alt="Galuval Le Coq Volant 2021" class="wp-image-46814" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2526-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2526-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2526-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2526-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2526-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2526-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_2526.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Galuval Le Coq Volant 2021</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Côtes du Rhône Villages Blanc here. Glowing straw yellow; it&#8217;s all yellow apples and salt spray. Lemon and forward nuttiness. A little too forward, cardboard-y and yet still slightly sour. Best days are behind it &#8211; it’s flattish. </p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: last year. <strong>16.3/20, 87/100.</strong> 12.5%, $40. Would I buy it? No.</p>



<h3 class="wp-block-heading">Oxford Landing Pinot Grigio 2024</h3>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">I get the audience here &#8211; someone who just wants a light, crisp alcoholic drink. But otherwise this is very middling. What little flavour is long gone, leaving some lightly crisp apple juice behind. </p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Best drinking: now. <strong>15.5/20, 85/100</strong>. 10.5%, $15. Would I buy it? No.</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://ozwinereview.com/2026/09/a-2026-dive-into-pinot-gris-and-textural-whites-with-mixed-results.html">A 2026 dive into Pinot Gris and textural whites (with mixed results)</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ozwinereview.com">Australian Wine and Drinks Review</a>.</p>
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		<title>40 years of Castle Rock Estate Riesling</title>
		<link>https://ozwinereview.com/2026/09/a-snapshot-of-40-years-of-castle-rock-estate-riesling.html</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Andrew Graham]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 22 Sep 2026 21:50:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[1991]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[1996]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[2003]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Mega Tasting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Porongurup]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Riesling]]></category>
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					<description><![CDATA[<img width="450" height="350" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0807-450x350.jpg?crop=1" class="webfeedsFeaturedVisual wp-post-image" alt="Castle Rock Estate Riesling 2006" style="display: block; margin: auto; margin-bottom: 5px;max-width: 100%;" link_thumbnail="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" /><p>Castle Rock Estate&#8217;s Rob Diletti made seven different Riesling wines this year from his own property, plus plenty more for a pack of other Porongurup wineries he crafts under contract. Oh yeah, he&#8217;s neck-deep into this Riesling thing, and has been ever since taking over the winemaking at his family&#8217;s Great Southern vineyard in 2001. [&#8230;]</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://ozwinereview.com/2026/09/a-snapshot-of-40-years-of-castle-rock-estate-riesling.html">40 years of Castle Rock Estate Riesling</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ozwinereview.com">Australian Wine and Drinks Review</a>.</p>
]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<img width="450" height="350" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0807-450x350.jpg?crop=1" class="webfeedsFeaturedVisual wp-post-image" alt="Castle Rock Estate Riesling 2006" style="display: block; margin: auto; margin-bottom: 5px;max-width: 100%;" link_thumbnail="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" />
<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Castle Rock Estate&#8217;s Rob Diletti made seven different Riesling wines this year from his own property, plus plenty more for a pack of other Porongurup wineries he crafts under contract. Oh yeah, he&#8217;s neck-deep into this Riesling thing, and has been ever since taking over the winemaking at his family&#8217;s Great Southern vineyard in 2001.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">After tasting through twelve vintages of the Castle Rock Estate Riesling in Sydney recently, it&#8217;s not hard to see why Rob loves the style so much. They&#8217;re remarkably consistent Riesling wines that were only marred by the inconsistencies of the tree bark in their bottle necks. </p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Not that I needed convincing, but it was a joy to see the glass empty-ability factor of this lineup of Riesling. What I wasn&#8217;t expecting, however, was how exotic some of those earlier releases look now too. Yes, a different era, but fascinating.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Now, before we get started on tasting notes and such, a history recap.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Angelo and Wendy Diletti took a punt on a 55-hectare property on the east side of the Castle Rock outcrop to grow grapes in 1981. On advice of a government viticulturist, they planted Traminer, Cabernet and Riesling, although only the Riesling remains to this day. </p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The first Castle Rock Estate vintage was in 1986, coincidentally the same year the first Pinot Noir was planted, with wines made at Alkoomi until Rob took over in 2001. Notably, the first screwcap bottling was in 2003, given how bad the run of cork-related variability of the wines between 97 and 2001 (Rob called them &#8216;largely undrinkable&#8217;).</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">While the Porongurup range is famous for granite, there are a range of soil types on the Castle Rock Estate property. The heavier soil at the top of the estate is what Rob prefers for whites, while the shallow, laterite soil at the bottom of the property is preferred for Pinot.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Meanwhile, Rob calls the winemaking for the Castle Estate Riesling &#8216;traditional Australian&#8217;, with free-run juice and neutral yeast. This wine is never acidified, but has been deacidified in some years and ‘good fruit doesn’t need the sugar on our site’ is the mantra, even though that goes completely against the release of a bunch of off-dry Riesling wines (which I have never loved either).</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Let&#8217;s look at some wines:</p>




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<p>The post <a href="https://ozwinereview.com/2026/09/a-snapshot-of-40-years-of-castle-rock-estate-riesling.html">40 years of Castle Rock Estate Riesling</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ozwinereview.com">Australian Wine and Drinks Review</a>.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
					
		
		
		<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">46763</post-id>	</item>
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		<title>All the new Lowestoft super Tassie wines vs some choice Burgundy</title>
		<link>https://ozwinereview.com/2026/09/all-the-new-lowestoft-super-tassie-wines-vs-some-choice-burgundy.html</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Andrew Graham]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 19 Sep 2026 00:56:33 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[2017]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[2018]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[2022]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[2023]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[2024]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[2025]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Burgundy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Chardonnay]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Longer]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Mega Tasting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Pinot Chardonnay + blends]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Pinot Noir]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Tasmania]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://ozwinereview.com/?p=46660</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[<img width="450" height="350" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0862-450x350.jpg?crop=1" class="webfeedsFeaturedVisual wp-post-image" alt="Lowestoft La Maison Pinot Noir 2024" style="display: block; margin: auto; margin-bottom: 5px;max-width: 100%;" link_thumbnail="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" /><p>All the new Lowenstoft wines vs a collection of Burgundies? I'm there. And this lineup showed why this label is a modern Tassie hero...</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://ozwinereview.com/2026/09/all-the-new-lowestoft-super-tassie-wines-vs-some-choice-burgundy.html">All the new Lowestoft super Tassie wines vs some choice Burgundy</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ozwinereview.com">Australian Wine and Drinks Review</a>.</p>
]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<img width="450" height="350" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0862-450x350.jpg?crop=1" class="webfeedsFeaturedVisual wp-post-image" alt="Lowestoft La Maison Pinot Noir 2024" style="display: block; margin: auto; margin-bottom: 5px;max-width: 100%;" link_thumbnail="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" />
<p class="wp-block-paragraph">It must be exciting to work for a company that has invested $100 million in Tasmanian wine acquisitions over the last six-odd years. Lowestoft winemaker Liam McElhinney has scored one of the best jobs in Australian wine.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">His tenure in Tassie started bumpily, though. Liam arrived from New Zealand in 2019 as a consultant, brought in by Peter Fogarty (of Fogarty Wine Group fame) after the purchase of the ailing &#8211; but crucially important &#8211; Winemaking Tasmania winemaking facility. That part is fine, but the timing was rubbish as McElhinney got entangled in COVID lockdowns and spent 8 months in Tassie without his family. </p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">That feels like an eon ago though now, with Liam now living on the Lowestoft property with said family (that have apparently acquired an Aussie twang), and helming Peter Fogarty&#8217;s growing Tasmanian empire, which now includes a patchwork of properties, including the Ossa vineyards, Clover Hill (along with Taltarni), and even a thousand-hectare walnut farm on the east coast that is gradually being converted to vines.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">To be clear, no one is doing that in the industry at present. Such investment and ambition just doesn&#8217;t happen anymore &#8211; not in a world where most wineries are running on fumes/wet rebates. I&#8217;d want to work for Peter Fogarty too.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">And Lowestoft is a vineyard crown jewel too.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Literally across the road from the Mona museum (well, across the road from the pump track that&#8217;s next to Mona) in what is now Hobart suburbia, the Lowestoft vineyard has some history. Planted in 1986, with an unheard-of-at-the-time 8000 vines/hectare density, this vineyard has some of the oldest Pinot vines in Tassie, although the fruit has been sold off to the likes of Stefano Lubiana and Treasury, often for sparkling and absorbed into bigger blends (because it&#8217;s only 3 hectares), and only now bottling under the Lowestoft label. Just to underline the history, some of the surrounding property was sold off for housing years back, and the property is now surrounded by a network of roads called naf wine names like &#8216;Chardonnay Drive&#8217; and &#8216;Beaujolais Court&#8217;.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The Lowestoft wines aren&#8217;t wholly from this block, but increasingly the rare top dog La Maison releases are. And the rarity has only levelled up since the Lowestoft La Maison Pinot Noir 2022 won the Jimmy (Watson trophy) in 2023.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">To be honest, I&#8217;ve barely seen these wines in the flesh, which is why I was extra interested to go along to a fancy lunch hosted by Liam to try them this week. It sounds like the most ridiculous first-world problem/cry me a river, etc., but the goal is to avoid wine lunches because the hours involved vs. the wines tasted typically don&#8217;t match up, and you just burn through your week. Give me a punchy 90-minute masterclass, and we&#8217;re good.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="932" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/a6d48c37-a8c1-4609-9332-280355562511-1024x932.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-46726" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/a6d48c37-a8c1-4609-9332-280355562511-1024x932.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/a6d48c37-a8c1-4609-9332-280355562511-600x546.jpg 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/a6d48c37-a8c1-4609-9332-280355562511-1536x1398.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/a6d48c37-a8c1-4609-9332-280355562511-960x874.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/a6d48c37-a8c1-4609-9332-280355562511.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">These Lowenstoft wines, though; I&#8217;d jostle for a taste. And the food at Sydney&#8217;s Eleven Barrack? Super. There were these Kurobuta pork tomahawks served on share plates and I was casually dropping a &#8216;are you going to have some more&#8217; type comments because I wasn&#8217;t going to waste that. I could have eaten a dozen of the superstar duck liver parfait choux with Banyuls jelly (pictured above) or the red velvet cake (below).</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Meanwhile, let&#8217;s look at a few wines?</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">There was a collection of Burgundies for comparison&#8217;s sake in this lineup too, and they were both instructive and welcome. They served to remind that a) Burgundy is just Chardonnay and Pinot Noir b) Tasmanian wine is that good c) I can&#8217;t afford to drink the Burgundy I want to drink.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Wines tasted:</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Thalia Sparkling NV</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Lowestoft Estate Chardonnay 2024</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Lowestoft La Meilleure Chardonnay 2025</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Lowestoft Estate Pinot Noir 2023</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Lowestoft Jacoben Pinot Noir 2024</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Domaine Amiot et Fils Morey-Saint-Denis 2017</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Lowestoft La Maison Pinot Noir 2024</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Domaine d’Eugénie Vosne-Romanée Clos d’Eugénie 2018</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Anne Boisson Bourgogne Blanc 2022</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Domaine Latour-Giraud Cuvée Charles Maxime Meursault 2023</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Domaine Taupenot-Merme Gevrey-Chambertin 2023</strong></p>




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<p>The post <a href="https://ozwinereview.com/2026/09/all-the-new-lowestoft-super-tassie-wines-vs-some-choice-burgundy.html">All the new Lowestoft super Tassie wines vs some choice Burgundy</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ozwinereview.com">Australian Wine and Drinks Review</a>.</p>
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		<title>Hello LEAS Chardonnay 2023 + Oregonian Megastars + more</title>
		<link>https://ozwinereview.com/2026/09/hello-leas-chardonnay-2013-oregonian-megastars-more.html</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Andrew Graham]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 16 Sep 2026 21:37:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[2023]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://ozwinereview.com/?p=46638</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[<img width="450" height="350" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0855-450x350.jpg?crop=1" class="webfeedsFeaturedVisual wp-post-image" alt="00 Wines Chehalem Mountain Chardonnay 2024" style="display: block; margin: auto; margin-bottom: 5px;max-width: 100%;" link_thumbnail="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" /><p>The wine industry can swallow you up if you let it. Taste all day, drink all night, rinse, repeat. Even in 2026, where selling wine has become a fraught exercise, there are always bottles open.</p>
<p>So it is that I found myself in the surrounds of the defence factory turned rum distillery that is the Sydney home of Red Mill Rum, tasting not just lots of the notably involving spirits, but an instructive comparison of world-class Chardonnay among other goodies.</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://ozwinereview.com/2026/09/hello-leas-chardonnay-2013-oregonian-megastars-more.html">Hello LEAS Chardonnay 2023 + Oregonian Megastars + more</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ozwinereview.com">Australian Wine and Drinks Review</a>.</p>
]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<img width="450" height="350" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0855-450x350.jpg?crop=1" class="webfeedsFeaturedVisual wp-post-image" alt="00 Wines Chehalem Mountain Chardonnay 2024" style="display: block; margin: auto; margin-bottom: 5px;max-width: 100%;" link_thumbnail="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" />
<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The wine industry can swallow you up if you let it. Taste all day, drink all night, rinse, repeat. Even in 2026, where selling wine has become a fraught exercise, there are always bottles open.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">So it is that I found myself in the surrounds of the defence factory turned rum distillery that is the Sydney home of Red Mill Rum, tasting not just lots of the notably involving spirits, but an instructive comparison of world-class Chardonnay among other goodies.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The rum is delicious. Brown spirits aren&#8217;t my chosen drink, so even though I taste loads of them, I drink zero. Yet the energy/complexity/depth triangle of the Red Mill rums (and the amari. Oh, the amari) is something even a rum heathen like me can appreciate (the just-released <strong>Red Mill Rum Tom Thumb&#8217;s Reserve</strong> is wildly impressive).</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0854-1024x768.jpg" alt="Pegasus Bay Riesling 2025" class="wp-image-46683" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0854-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0854-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0854-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0854-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0854-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0854-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0854.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Meanwhile, lobbing up as the entree to the wine lineup from blue-chip distributor Fesq was the <strong>Pegasus Bay Riesling 2025</strong>. Riesling remains an afterthought in Kiwi wine, but Peg Bay have gone long for a long time with great results. This &#8217;25 feels just-right too &#8211; there&#8217;s an Alsace-like orange rind fullness that makes this so inviting, without ever falling over into excess, with ripeness rather than sugar driving the drinkability. Delightful.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The Chardonnay table is where the big guns sat, though, with the new <strong>Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay 2023</strong> sliding on in&#8230;</p>




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<p>The post <a href="https://ozwinereview.com/2026/09/hello-leas-chardonnay-2013-oregonian-megastars-more.html">Hello LEAS Chardonnay 2023 + Oregonian Megastars + more</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ozwinereview.com">Australian Wine and Drinks Review</a>.</p>
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		<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">46638</post-id>	</item>
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		<title>What have you been buying and drinking in September (and August) 2026</title>
		<link>https://ozwinereview.com/2026/09/what-have-you-been-buying-and-drinking-in-september-and-august-2026.html</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Andrew Graham]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 12 Sep 2026 00:03:41 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Longer]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://ozwinereview.com/?p=46627</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[<img width="450" height="350" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0839-450x350.jpg?crop=1" class="webfeedsFeaturedVisual wp-post-image" alt="Bracket Brewing Double Tap WCIPA" style="display: block; margin: auto; margin-bottom: 5px;max-width: 100%;" link_thumbnail="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" /><p>Actually, it&#8217;s not just this month; I&#8217;m folding in August too, because another project got in the way over the last few weeks, which put a go-slow on any sort of Australian Wine Review work (and sleeping, for that matter). I&#8217;m back on the horse now though, so let&#8217;s go! Now normally, I like to [&#8230;]</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://ozwinereview.com/2026/09/what-have-you-been-buying-and-drinking-in-september-and-august-2026.html">What have you been buying and drinking in September (and August) 2026</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ozwinereview.com">Australian Wine and Drinks Review</a>.</p>
]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<img width="450" height="350" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0839-450x350.jpg?crop=1" class="webfeedsFeaturedVisual wp-post-image" alt="Bracket Brewing Double Tap WCIPA" style="display: block; margin: auto; margin-bottom: 5px;max-width: 100%;" link_thumbnail="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" />
<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Actually, it&#8217;s not just this month; I&#8217;m folding in August too, because another project got in the way over the last few weeks, which put a go-slow on any sort of Australian Wine Review work (and sleeping, for that matter). I&#8217;m back on the horse now though, so let&#8217;s go!</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Now normally, I like to kick off this monthly wrap with a few wines I&#8217;ve drunk lately, but there hasn&#8217;t been much of that either. </p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0630-1-1024x768.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-46605" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0630-1-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0630-1-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0630-1-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0630-1-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0630-1-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0630-1-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0630-1.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">This <strong>Levantine Hill Levant Chardonnay 2024</strong> looked lovely on a bloody hot Singapore night, though, with just the right push/pull balance between delicacy and oak/fruit richness. Right up there with some of the Oakridge single-vineyard Chardies on the &#8216;Yarra Valley Chardonnay I want to drink&#8217; scale.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0770-1024x768.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-46600" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0770-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0770-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0770-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0770-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0770-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0770-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0770.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Also high on the drinkability index, this <strong>Slipstream Brewing Billy Cart Mid Pale</strong> was much more impressive than expected. Typically I&#8217;d rather drink half a pint than a mid-strength, but this had a hop-forward fragrance and just the right amount of bitter shape for a beer that lands at 3.4%.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">What about you? What have you enjoyed drinking over the past month or so?</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">As for buying, well, for inspo I popped by the Negociants (prominent Australian wine distributor) spring tasting last week, and plenty lobbed into view that I&#8217;d buy.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">First through the door was the Ata Rangi table, and the freshly bottled <strong>Ata Rangi Pinot Noir 2024</strong> looked beautiful. There&#8217;s a silken flow and everything in its right place, and youthful joy right there. Delicious. Ata Rangi assistant winemaker Katie Cameron was pouring the wines and explained that after a few tough vintages, there was a sense of relief when this wine came out looking so good. I couldn&#8217;t warm to the <strong>Ata Rangi Crimson Pinot Noir 2025</strong>, though, which looked less pure and much more forward than I&#8217;d expect. </p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0803-1024x768.jpg" alt="Bekkers Syrah 2022" class="wp-image-46602" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0803-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0803-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0803-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0803-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0803-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0803-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0803.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Alongside, Toby Bekkers poured his latest Bekkers releases, and yet again, these are such impressive things. In my McLaren Vale hierarchy, these are up there with the likes of Yangarra at the very pointy end. The <strong>Bekkers Syrah 2022</strong> is magnificent, with this line of dark olive and licorice phenolic savouriness that is irrepressible. There&#8217;s a sense of purity in that wine that Toby attributes to what he described as abysmal (I&#8217;m paraphrasing, but that was the sentiment) extraction rates, where he ends up with less than 550 litres of juice from a tonne of grapes (the Wine Australia average is 712). Extraction isn&#8217;t everything, but the consideration that goes into these Bekkers wines feels proper uncompromising, which shows in everything from the lively TOME blend, through the perfectly balanced Grenache and then the first-ever straight Cab release: the <strong>Bekkers Cabernet Sauvignon 2023</strong>. Sourced from the Bekkers&#8217; Clarendon vineyard, it&#8217;s a towering Cabernet in its Vale expression, yet doesn&#8217;t feel like an angular, alcoholic slap like some Vale Cabs. The Syrah is easily the king in the lineup, but hot dog, that Cab isn&#8217;t far behind. </p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0802-1024x768.jpg" alt="Château Pouilly-Fuisse Tête de Cuvee 2023" class="wp-image-46599" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0802-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0802-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0802-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0802-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0802-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0802-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0802.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">There were a lot more impressive wines at that tasting, but it was one white that almost slipped through that I most wanted to drink &#8211; a <strong>Château Pouilly-Fuisse Tête de Cuvee 2023</strong>. I really fell hard for Pouilly-Fuisse in Burgundy earlier in the year, and this classic expression has the white rock limestone stoniness, but also a joyful, nutty, golden, richer edge. We&#8217;re not at 1er Cru levels of density, but the effortlessness of this wine makes it such a fresh, satisfying drink. Would I buy it? Yes, and finish the bottle no probs.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Speaking of buying things, Michael Brajkovich MW from Kumeu River rolled into town for a masterclass at the end of August with a vertical of his Rays Road Chardonnay and some other back-vintage goodies in tow. That&#8217;s a whole different post that I&#8217;ll get to next week, but needless to say, I&#8217;m buying some of the new <strong>Kumeu River Maté&#8217;s Vineyard Chardonnay 2025</strong> because it&#8217;s superb.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1024" height="768" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0839-1024x768.jpg" alt="Bracket Brewing Double Tap WCIPA" class="wp-image-46624" srcset="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0839-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0839-600x450.jpg?crop=1 600w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0839-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0839-705x529.jpg?crop=1 705w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0839-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0839-350x264.jpg?crop=1 350w, https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/img_0839.jpg 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Also in the purchase pile lately is some&nbsp;<strong>Wanderer Upper Yarra Pinot Noir 2025</strong>, more&nbsp;<strong>Aeon Soleil Semillon 2025</strong>, and likely more of the delicious <strong>Bracket Brewing Double Tap WCIPA</strong>.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">What about you? What have you been buying lately?</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://ozwinereview.com/2026/09/what-have-you-been-buying-and-drinking-in-september-and-august-2026.html">What have you been buying and drinking in September (and August) 2026</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ozwinereview.com">Australian Wine and Drinks Review</a>.</p>
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		<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">46627</post-id>	</item>
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		<title>The cool breeze of Ross Hill&#8217;s Pinnacle Series blows in</title>
		<link>https://ozwinereview.com/2026/08/the-cool-breeze-of-ross-hills-pinnacle-series-blows-in.html</link>
					<comments>https://ozwinereview.com/2026/08/the-cool-breeze-of-ross-hills-pinnacle-series-blows-in.html#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Andrew Graham]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 23 Aug 2026 21:30:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[2024]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Cabernet Franc + Blends]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Orange]]></category>
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					<description><![CDATA[<img width="450" height="350" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/img_0582-450x350.jpg?crop=1" class="webfeedsFeaturedVisual wp-post-image" alt="Ross Hill Pinnacle Series Cabernet Franc 2024" style="display: block; margin: auto; margin-bottom: 5px;max-width: 100%;" link_thumbnail="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" /><p>It will always be befuddling that Orange (the wine region) doesn&#8217;t have a larger profile. Yes, there is a distinct lack of significant volume halo producers, which sucks some energy out of the whole shebang. It is hardly a large region either &#8211; roughly half the size of the Yarra in hectares planted. Yet it [&#8230;]</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://ozwinereview.com/2026/08/the-cool-breeze-of-ross-hills-pinnacle-series-blows-in.html">The cool breeze of Ross Hill&#8217;s Pinnacle Series blows in</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ozwinereview.com">Australian Wine and Drinks Review</a>.</p>
]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<img width="450" height="350" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/img_0582-450x350.jpg?crop=1" class="webfeedsFeaturedVisual wp-post-image" alt="Ross Hill Pinnacle Series Cabernet Franc 2024" style="display: block; margin: auto; margin-bottom: 5px;max-width: 100%;" link_thumbnail="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" />
<p class="wp-block-paragraph">It will always be befuddling that Orange (the wine region) doesn&#8217;t have a larger profile. </p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Yes, there is a distinct lack of significant volume halo producers, which sucks some energy out of the whole shebang. It is hardly a large region either &#8211; roughly half the size of the Yarra in hectares planted. Yet it still doesn&#8217;t explain why this region, with its altitude-defined charisma and varietal variety, sits a distance back in the Australian cool climate wine hierarchy (even within NSW, which is another puzzlement altogether).</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">When I cracked open the <strong>Ross Hill Pinnacle Series Cabernet Franc 2024</strong> below, it felt like a reminder of what lies on those NSW Central Ranges slopes. The Ross Hill apple-picking-shed-turned-winery (most Orange wineries are repurposed apple sheds; they&#8217;re affordable and well insulated) tends to produce lifted Franc, and this felt welcomingly bright and delineated. A breath of fresh air, straight off Mount Canobolas. </p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Indeed, Orange Cab Franc is an underrated beast, just to fit the narrative. The acid and tannin balance isn&#8217;t always there, but when it&#8217;s on, it&#8217;s bloody on. And Chardonnay! Orange Chardonnay deserves high status. More love for the appley finesse that shines even in the riper wines.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">As evidence for why I&#8217;m banging on about Orange, see the full Ross Hill Pinnacle range spelled out below, in all their delineated splendour.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">This is a rather complete range expression from this OG carbon-neutral winery, even if a little patience would go a long way. Curiously, there is an oak character in these wines that is quite appley &#8211; a fine-grained mealiness that adds more coolness, although a reflection of how the refined fruit might suffer if the oak was overt at all. Notably fair pricing for a pinnacle range too.</p>




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<p>The post <a href="https://ozwinereview.com/2026/08/the-cool-breeze-of-ross-hills-pinnacle-series-blows-in.html">The cool breeze of Ross Hill&#8217;s Pinnacle Series blows in</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ozwinereview.com">Australian Wine and Drinks Review</a>.</p>
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		<title>The promise of a new Casella project</title>
		<link>https://ozwinereview.com/2026/08/the-promise-of-a-new-casella-project.html</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Andrew Graham]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 18 Aug 2026 21:35:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[2025]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Chardonnay]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Longer]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Shiraz Cabernet blends]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://ozwinereview.com/?p=46294</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[<img width="450" height="350" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/img_0698-450x350.jpg?crop=1" class="webfeedsFeaturedVisual wp-post-image" alt="e’Stellar Legacy Sparkling (2025 disgorgement)" style="display: block; margin: auto; margin-bottom: 5px;max-width: 100%;" link_thumbnail="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" /><p>Not just the [yellow tail] winemakers, the Casella family have become unlikely saviours in recent years, picking up a swag of underappreciated estates (like Morris and Baileys) and giving them some love.</p>
<p>e'Stellar Estate, the new Yarra Valley project, has a Casella name behind it too, but this time it's Joe Casella (rather than John, who drives the Casella Family Brands). Joe and Cathy Casella purchased Graeme Miller's Dixons Creek Estate in 2017, and then added the original Mandala Vineyard next door, creating e'Stellar from the merged estate.</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://ozwinereview.com/2026/08/the-promise-of-a-new-casella-project.html">The promise of a new Casella project</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ozwinereview.com">Australian Wine and Drinks Review</a>.</p>
]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<img width="450" height="350" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/img_0698-450x350.jpg?crop=1" class="webfeedsFeaturedVisual wp-post-image" alt="e’Stellar Legacy Sparkling (2025 disgorgement)" style="display: block; margin: auto; margin-bottom: 5px;max-width: 100%;" link_thumbnail="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" />
<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Not just the [yellow tail] winemakers, the Casella family have become unlikely saviours in recent years, picking up a swag of underappreciated estates (like Morris and Baileys) and giving them some love.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"> e&#8217;Stellar Estate, the new Yarra Valley project, has a Casella name behind it too, but this time it&#8217;s Joe Casella (rather than John, who drives the Casella Family Brands). Joe and Cathy Casella purchased Graeme Miller&#8217;s Dixons Creek Estate in 2017, and then added the original Mandala Vineyard next door, creating e&#8217;Stellar from the merged estate.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Martin Siebert, the man behind the First Foot Forward brand (and who made Tokar Estate great), is GM of the new e&#8217;Stellar operation, which is even better news. Martin can deliver delicacy and deftly handled Yarra wines, let alone being a good human.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Put it all together, and you can see why, when the fancy textured labelled samples of this new name dropped at AWDR HQ, it came with promise.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Let&#8217;s see how they taste&#8230;</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Wines reviewed:</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>e’Stellar Pinot Noir 2025</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>e’Stellar Syrah 2025</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>e’Stellar Legacy Sparkling (2025 disgorgement)</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>e’Stellar Cabernet Sauvignon 2025</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>e’Stellar Chardonnay 2025</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>e’Stellar Estate Cabernet Syrah 2025</strong></p>




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<p>The post <a href="https://ozwinereview.com/2026/08/the-promise-of-a-new-casella-project.html">The promise of a new Casella project</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ozwinereview.com">Australian Wine and Drinks Review</a>.</p>
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		<title>Another day, another Endeavour outcast going great</title>
		<link>https://ozwinereview.com/2026/08/another-day-another-endeavour-outcast-going-great.html</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Andrew Graham]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 09 Aug 2026 21:08:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[2019]]></category>
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					<description><![CDATA[<img width="450" height="350" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/img_2527-450x350.jpg?crop=1" class="webfeedsFeaturedVisual wp-post-image" alt="Oakridge Hyde Park Shiraz 2024" style="display: block; margin: auto; margin-bottom: 5px;max-width: 100%;" link_thumbnail="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" /><p>Oakridge is (or was) David Bicknell.</p>
<p>As he pointed out in his goodbye message on Instagram, over 24 years, Bicknell has taken a 'broken winery to the top of the industry with an unwavering commitment to quality and plenty of hard graft'.</p>
<p>Yet the accolades didn't save him, and there's not shortage of evidence to show why this is a mad move...</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://ozwinereview.com/2026/08/another-day-another-endeavour-outcast-going-great.html">Another day, another Endeavour outcast going great</a> appeared first on <a href="https://ozwinereview.com">Australian Wine and Drinks Review</a>.</p>
]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<img width="450" height="350" src="https://ozwinereview.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/img_2527-450x350.jpg?crop=1" class="webfeedsFeaturedVisual wp-post-image" alt="Oakridge Hyde Park Shiraz 2024" style="display: block; margin: auto; margin-bottom: 5px;max-width: 100%;" link_thumbnail="" decoding="async" loading="lazy" />
<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Oakridge is (or was) David Bicknell. </p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">As he pointed out in his goodbye message on <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/DarfHWIyD8u/" data-type="link" data-id="https://www.instagram.com/p/DarfHWIyD8u/">Instagram</a>, over 24 years, Bicknell has taken a &#8216;broken winery to the top of the industry with an unwavering commitment to quality and plenty of hard graft&#8217;.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Yet the accolades didn&#8217;t save him, with Bicknell amongst a few winemakers caught up in the Endeavour sale-athon (and redundancy spree) that <a href="https://ozwinereview.com/2026/08/vale-chapel-hill-heres-a-few-final-wines-to-see-you-off.html" data-type="link" data-id="https://ozwinereview.com/2026/08/vale-chapel-hill-heres-a-few-final-wines-to-see-you-off.html">we talked about last week</a>. I don&#8217;t understand why you&#8217;d sell off the brand without its talismanic winemaker asset, but then again the Endeavour winery clearout isn&#8217;t about emotions, it&#8217;s about pure corporate cost-cutting ( which remains the mortal enemy of capital-hungry wineries everywhere) from a brand <a href="https://insideretail.com.au/business/financial/profits-collapse-at-endeavour-group-after-restructure-202608" data-type="link" data-id="https://insideretail.com.au/business/financial/profits-collapse-at-endeavour-group-after-restructure-202608">desperate to turn around profitability</a>.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Meanwhile, a cursory search on this site will reveal just how fine the Oakridge wines have been in recent years too, just to remind what&#8217;s on the chopping block. Please, let a new owner step in who will pick up the team and keep the Oakridge fire burning (could probably just rehire Dave and you&#8217;re good to go).</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Here are a few more quality wines to add to Bicknell&#8217;s liquid portfolio.</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Wines reviewed below:</p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Oakridge Blanc de Blancs 2019</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Oakridge Hazeldene Chardonnay 2024</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Oakridge Hazeldene Pinot Gris 2025</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Oakridge Hazeldene Pinot Noir 2024</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Oakridge Horst Riesling 2025</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Oakridge Hyde Park Shiraz 2024</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Oakridge Meunier 2025</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Oakridge Oakridge Vineyard Shiraz 2024</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Oakridge Willowlake Chardonnay 2024</strong></p>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph"><strong>Oakridge Willowlake Pinot Noir 2024</strong></p>



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