Parahamsa

STRIKE!

Deana Zabaldo — Wed, 16 May 2012 18:35:16 +0000

And sometimes a day in Kathmandu looks like this: wake up, meditate, eat breakfast (same menu, different garden), walk out to the main street to catch a taxi and……where is the chaos?? People are walking around, but the street is empty. No trucks, no cars, no motorcycles, no bicycles, and most definitely no taxis.

Strikes have become the preferred form of political voice in Nepal. Anyone who isn’t getting what they want is likely to call a strike and shut down transportation and businesses. As Nepal approaches the deadline for writing a new constitution, groups in the far west of the country have shut down the area for days demanding states divided along ethnic lines, while here in Kathmandu the two-day strike is demanding states NOT drawn along ethnic lines.

It seems one of the biggest barriers to democracy in Nepal is that people think the only way to be heard is by forcing businesses and transportation to shut down. Everyday people want their businesses open, but gangs of boys and men (yes, this form of political expression appears to be 100% male) march all over town threatening anyone who dares open their shop doors, yanking people off bicycles and motorcycles, and torching taxis that might try to pass. That a few thousand people can shut down a city of 3 million speaks volumes to the fatalism and fear of the masses.

Nepal, however, might finally get its overdue constitution. Four years into a two-year program, the politicians are finally making great strides forward and have come to agreement on many intractable issues. They managed to whittle down the former Maoist guerrillas seeking entry into the national army from 17,000 to 3,000. They are finding consensus on the form of government (a directly elected President and a Prime Minister elected by a 371-member Parliament).

Baburam Bhattarai, the Prime Minister, is probably the best leader the country has had in years, both in terms of working for the country and building political bridges. Those roads I saw being constructed on day 1 of my trip were a signpost of how much work has started to happen. By the end of May, we’ll see if there is a new constitution drafted, but as the deadline approaches, strikes will no doubt be ever more prominent.

As for me, I pack my bags–including perhaps 30 lbs of jewelry!–and I escape the dusty streets and political unrest as I fly home to San Francisco. I’m going to trade in my flip-flops for some city shoes, and I welcome the return to friends and food and urban life.

Hike, Peak, Repeat

Deana Zabaldo — Tue, 08 May 2012 19:55:34 +0000

Receiving a blessing from Lama Geshe

After a few days rest, I do it all one more time…Kathmandu temples and monasteries, spine-tingling flight to Lukla, yaks and packs and porters and gear, hours of hiking from the lush and livable “hills” at 9,000 ft to the rocky summit of Kala Pattar at 18,450 ft, blessings from lamas and stringing of prayer flags, a surreal night listening to avalanches and the cracking and shifting glacier beneath my tent in the transitory outpost of Everest Base Camp, long days hiking back to earth covered with trees and flowers, dance party–yes, dance party, in hiking boots, in a darkened dining hall—with staff and clients all flushed with success and relief, and finally a return to the warmth and comforts of Kathmandu and a life in flip-flops.

I won’t lie. High altitude treks are far from easy, even for me. The journey can be a struggle, both physically and mentally. For many of my clients, it is by far the hardest thing they’ve ever done. Yet these journeys continue to be some of the most rewarding experiences of my life, as much for the people as for the majestic geography. Every season, I grow close to people–both my clients and my Nepali staff. I learn about their lives, facilitate their success, share in their stories, unite them across language and culture, and support them in their dreams, whether of reaching the high Himalayas or earning an income for their family. I spend every day in the sunshine–or rain or snow or hail–and I walk across the earth, intimately connected to it. Even when I’m struggling with being far from home, with being sick, cold, tired, uncomfortable (and I have been all of those things and more this season), I finish the journey and relax and wonder if there could ever be a richer way to spend my days.

Peak of the trek: 18,450 ft and fantastic views. Everest is the black pyramid in the background.

Yak caravan heading down empty after resupplying base camp.

The team hikes higher. Pumori--a peak so graceful it's name literally means "daughter of the mountain"--in the background.

The transitory encampment of Everest Base Camp 2012 sprawled atop the Khumbu Glacier. Khumbhu Icefall starting to the right.

The Buddha’s Birthday

Deana Zabaldo — Sun, 06 May 2012 20:37:55 +0000

Thousands of people turned out at Bouddhanath Stupa as part of worldwide celebrations for the Buddha’s birthday. Observed on the full moon in April/May (this year May 6), Buddha Purnima is less an exact date and more a commemoration of the Buddha’s birth, enlightenment, and passing away. Honored by all different types of Buddhists throughout Asia and beyond, the Buddha’s birthday is a time to respect Buddhist teachings, to bring happiness to others through charity and kindness, to pursue liberation, to chant mantras, make offerings, receive blessings, and to pause in meditation and reflection.

The Yak & Yeti

Deana Zabaldo — Thu, 03 May 2012 18:56:49 +0000

The Yak & Yeti is a Kathmandu landmark, a 120-yr-old palace that was converted into the city’s first proper hotel and made famous by a celebrated Russian who welcomed Nepal’s first tourists to his opulent accommodations and restaurant in the 1960′s. Now with a modern wing added and beautiful grounds and garden, the Yak & Yeti is full of famous climbers, recognized personalities, and random tourists. In the lobby this week, I ran into both Jim Whittaker (the first American to summit Everest) and Elizabeth Hawley (legendary chronicler of Everest climbers).

The Yak & Yeti, still one of Kathmandu’s best hotels, may also be the only hotel in the world where I am known. Although I generally stay in a small guesthouse when I’m on my own in Nepal, I have the good fortune to stay at the Yak & Yeti with Mountain Madness groups…which means I’ve been here multiple times a year for the past 5 years. It’s an odd experience to be known. Everyone greets me with familiar warmth–from the General Manager down to the bellmen. Waitstaff stop by to say “Namaste!” and “Good morning, madam!” throughout my breakfast. Guest Services greets me by name. About the only guy who doesn’t know me is the piano man in the bar playing Strangers in the Night.

Returning Down The Valley

Deana Zabaldo — Wed, 02 May 2012 17:45:58 +0000

Descent to 14,000ft, Pheriche

Finally we hike out to the comfort of Pheriche where 14,000 feet feels like thick air. From there we have a few days of beautiful hiking and hanging out with our staff. Life is good on the trail…

Carved prayer stones stacked along the trail

We make a quick detour to stop in at guide Dawa's house for potato pancakes and tea.

The Lukla monastery

A Night At Everest Base Camp

Deana Zabaldo — Tue, 01 May 2012 17:41:25 +0000

Crossing out onto the Khumbhu Glacier towards base camp

The following day, we cross more of the moonscape and head out to Everest Base Camp, surrounded by looming mountains. Incredibly dwarfed by the landscape, the tents of EBC slowly grow from dots of color in the distance to life-size domes and squares. We are one of the only trek groups to be spending the night at Base Camp. That gives us the chance to relax, look around, and sleep on the glacier.

The dots of base camp tents grow larger

The medical tent and some expedition tents at base camp

After a respite of lunch in our dining tent, we walk down to the Icefall, find the Himalayan Rescue Association set up, learn the Icefall doctors have completed setting the route through that most dangerous territory, and find the helipad just completed and ready for rescue.

Helicopter lands at base camp

It’s a cold night in the tents at a mere 3 degrees Farenheit, and everyone is glad for their warm bags and jackets. When I get up for a few minutes near midnight, the snow outside literally sparkles in moonlight, and the mountains are aglow. I am struck by the sheer beauty of this quiet, icy earth.

In the morning, the silent smattering of tents on the edge of the world slowly comes to life.

The view out my tent early morning

Bye, bye base camp

Moonscape & Mountains

Deana Zabaldo — Mon, 30 Apr 2012 17:25:04 +0000

Hiking into snow-sheathed Gorak Shep

Above Lobuche, the world turns to stone and water, more like moon than earth.

Miles of thick ice make up the Khumbu Glacier, and smaller glaciers reach down from 6000…7000…8000 meter peaks all around. A light snow sticks atop rocks, but still allows for easy hiking. A tumult of boulders make up the glacial morraine that we cross into the final outpost of Gorak Shep. The town is coated in sugary snow. Although it was snowing all night and into the morning as we left Lobuche, the weather miraculously clears for afternoon views of Everest. Streams of thin clouds ensconce the mountains, opening and closing like the curtains on a stage. It’s absolutely magical as it continues to clear and the views get better and better.

Looking into Tibet--the black mountain in the background is Tibet.

Sunshine and Snow

Deana Zabaldo — Sun, 29 Apr 2012 18:01:01 +0000

Shifting clouds over Ama Dablam and the village of Dingboche below

We continue up the Khumbhu Valley with a little snow and a little sun, the combination making the landscape stunningly powerful. Staying in Dingboche for 2 days, our sherpas settle into tents, we warm up by the stove in the lodge, and our yaks get a rest.

The yaks get a rest. (Actually they're a yak-cow cross breed.)

Eyes of the Buddha along the trail

A rest day, however, means we only hike half the day. In the morning, we climb up over 1000 ft and then return to relax in the afternoon and sleep at the same altitude for a second night to improve altitude adjustment. From our acclimatization hike, we have incredible views of Ama Dablam disappearing in and out of the clouds, and of the village of Dingboche below. After another delicious breakfast from the Mountain Madness kitchen, it’s up to Lobuche at 16,200 ft!

Breakfast!

Back to Base Camp

Deana Zabaldo — Fri, 27 Apr 2012 17:25:01 +0000

Back on the trail to Everest Base Camp for spring 2012!

Every journey starts with a blessing. Whether from Hanuman the Monkey God or from a Buddhist monk, it’s comforting to have an extra dose of luck and protection as we take one of the world’s most exhilarating flights–to Lukla airstrip, gateway to the Everest region.

During our first two days, the hiking was beautiful in the lush lower valley on the way to Namche Bazaar. Small children offered us flowers as magnolias, rhododendrons, primula, and cherry trees bloomed along the trail.

In Jorsale, near the entry to the national park, we saw a small forest fire burning. Unfortunately it grew the next day, and we could see the plumes of smoke down the valley from Namche Bazaar. The army mobilized a crew with snow shovels and ice axes, but it was the rain that finally got it under control.

Forest fire down the valley

Meeting Maya

Deana Zabaldo — Thu, 26 Apr 2012 16:25:19 +0000

Maya on the playground

By Day 3, I’m cresting over the jet lag. I sleep through the night and get up at 5:30am to visit Maya, the bright and brave little girl you may have read about last season.

Here’s something to love about Nepal: When I get in the cab, I haven’t eaten because everything is still closed and/or I opted not to get up at 5am for tea. I mention this to the driver and ask him to stop at a tea shop on the way. This seems perfectly reasonable to us both.

We stop at a roadside stall where I buy us a round of tea and a breakfast of chickpeas with onion and cilantro. The chai steams in the cold morning air, and I love that even if you’re in a taxi, there’s always time for tea.

Maya throws her arms around me when she sees me, and I melt. Her open warmth is not only a sign she remembers me over these few months but also that she is adjusting well in her new home.

Maya clings, then walks me around the home. The women who manage the kids coddle and kiss her, and we depart to walk 15 minutes to school with the escort of two 12 year olds. On the way, Maya sings me her English ABC’s….all the way through P.

Maya is attentive in class and a little afraid of the playground chaos, but I generally find that she’s in a good school and doing well. It’s clearly just going to takes months of stability and love to overcome some of the abuse she experienced. I’m excited to see her engaged in class and happy at home!

Maya with her friend Pooja