ICYMI: You’ll find my tested and true travel recommendations, destination spotlights, personal essays, and updates on Five Favorites. I also write weekly recommendations spanning recipes, books, articles, outfits, and more.

Here are some of the latest travel editions available there:

Five Favorite European Summer Getaways

Five Favorite Hotel Stays Around the World

Five Favorites on the California Coast

Five Favorites in San Sebastián, Spain

Five Favorites in Dordogne, France

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Seeking a calm weekend getaway from San Francisco? Look no further than Mendocino.

Growing up in Northern California, I thought I had weekend destinations here well established. Somehow it still took years of living in San Francisco for me to finally get to Mendocino. When I finally did, for the first time last spring, it quickly became a new favorite spot to get a change of pace from the city. Mendocino refreshes you in a way that is hard to describe.

Just a few hours drive up the Pacific Coast Highway from San Francisco, being here always feels like a breath of fresh air (maybe because it literally is?) Whether clear or misty, a wild, jagged coast awaits you, and no matter how many times you visit it feels like you’ve discovered some nature-filled secret. The redwood-lined drive in alone puts me instantly at ease.

I first ended up in Mendocino when looking for a weekend trip from SF where we could bring our dog along. It’s not only dog-friendly, it’s close for most of the Bay Area but is just tucked away enough to feel worlds away (in a good way!)

We first spent five days exploring the area and enjoying its beaches, trails, parks, gardens, and cafes. More recently I had the chance to return for my first trip with a newborn in tow.

If you’re looking for a coastal trip that’s beautiful, calm, and friendly to all, it is definitely worth treating yourself to a Mendocino weekend. Here’s what you need to know to plan a visit of your own.

Getting from San Francisco to Mendocino

From San Francisco, it’s a short 3-hour drive through Marin and Sonoma, up the coast, and through the redwood forest. Plan 4 hours for a more leisurely drive with stops. You can also take two buses to get there if a car isn’t in your plans, but it’ll take you about double the time. I recommend driving if you can.

My favorite place to stop along the way is Boonville. It’s always where we grab a bite (shoutout to the Disco Ranch, the loveliest wine bar and specialty food market) but you can also pause at any of the Andersen Valley wineries that call to you along the way. A few I recommend include Toulouse Vineyards, Husch Winery, Navarro Vineyards, and The Madrones, which has four tasting rooms in one beautiful location. Healdsburg is another favorite wine country spot that’s easy to stop at along the way — although I typically reserve this for its own visit as it’s much closer to the city.

Where to Stay in Mendocino

I stayed at the same spot for both visits to the area: the wonderful Stanford Inn. There are many lovely inns along the coast, but for me, Stanford Inn checks all the boxes for a weekend getaway — peaceful, pet-friendly, family-friendly, and in general, friendly (i.e. wonderful people run the place!)

It’s set in a meadow with organic gardens and farmland, with ocean views from many of the rooms. It’s quiet but still close to town and has its own truly fantastic vegan restaurant on site (plus, breakfast is included each morning with your stay.) A bonus of the location is its proximity to Big River, with Catch-a-Canoe rentals and launch area steps from the inn’s front door.

To me, the highlight of the Stanford Inn is its focus on wellness. I recommend relaxing on the property for at least one day to enjoy their gardens, sauna, and pool. They offer yoga classes, massage (in the forest!), gardening classes, plant-based cooking classes, and art therapy regularly. You can also arrange to experience acupuncture, Ayurveda, meditation, breathwork, or Chinese herbology with their knowledgeable staff. They even have free mountain bikes available to guests. Or, you can opt for my favorite activity as of late — lounging in front of the fireplace. There’s one in every room.

They welcome all pets, but for us, the small touches like freshly made dog treats and blankets so that our dog could sit comfortably on the couch with us, make all the difference. We opted for the two-room suite for our family of four (furry friend included) and it was great to have the extra space. Having stayed in multiple different room types there, you’re in for a treat no matter which space suits your travel style.

Things to Do in Mendocino

Whether you’re in town for the weekend or an extended stay, there’s plenty to see and do (in a leisurely manner, of course.) I like to mix and match something active with something relaxing, like a hike with a restaurant or a beach trip with a bike ride. Here are a few things to bookmark as you explore:

Take a Hike

There is a wealth of places to enjoy a stroll in nature and get your forest bath on. A few noteworthy trails include the Russian Gulch Waterfall Loop, the Fern Canyon Trail, the Big River Trail, a Mendocino Headlands cliff walk, and the newly opened Noyo Headlands Coastal Trail a bit further up north.

Rent a Bike

You can bike all throughout Mendocino and its surroundings. Biking leisurely around the downtown area is always fun, stopping for a snack or a drink along the way. Mountain bikers are also welcome on many of the hiking trails listed above. You can bike on old logging roads in Jackson Demonstration Forest. Heading inland a bit, Manly Gulch Trail is a great forest path for biking. If you’re looking to bike next to the ocean, check out the Ten Mile Beach Trail just north of Mendocino in Fort Bragg.

Visit a State Park

Many of the area’s best trails are located in state parks. Bookmark Van Damme State Park, Mendocino Headlands, MacKarricher State Park, Russian Gulch State Park, Caspar Headlands State Park, and Jug Handle State Reserve, and visit whichever works best for you on any given day (they’re all beautiful.)

Be on the lookout for grey whales passing through if you’re visiting during the winter. Year-round, we love exploring the tidepools at MacKarricher State Park. For those of you with pups in tow, the Headlands trail and MacKarricher boardwalks are both dog-friendly.

Catch a Canoe

One of my very favorite activities in this area is a calming paddle up Big River. If your preference is to stay on land, there is also a great hiking and biking trail that follows the river, or you can enjoy the views at Big River Beach where the river meets the ocean. Canoeing or kayaking all but guarantees a slower pace, with a sense of connection to the nature around you. We always see tons of wildlife, including birds, otters, and harbor seals.

Soak It All In

If after hitting the trails and beaches, you may be inclined to slow down a bit further. Up the highway, you’ll find the Mendocino Botanical Gardens, a sublime garden spread out over 47 acres. You’ll need to purchase your ticket in advance ($15,) and check their website for their opening hours which vary by season.

If you’ve had enough forest bathing and want to switch gears to actual bathing, look no further than the Sweetwater Spa. The eco spa in the center of downtown has outdoor soaking tubs to access either privately or communally (note that clothing is optional in the community tub.) There’s also a redwood sauna on site. You’ll want to reserve the private soaking tub in advance.

Where to Eat in Mendocino

These are my favorite places to grab a bite in and around Mendocino (after several visits:)

• Cafe Beaujolais – dinner, but The Brickery inside is fantastic for lunch
• Patterson’s Pub – lunch and dinner (don’t miss the fish and chips!)
• Good Life Cafe and Bakery – breakfast and lunch
• The Ravens Restaurant (Vegan) – breakfast, lunch, and dinner plus happy hour before 6pm
• Noyo Fish Company (Fort Bragg) – lunch and dinner, fresh from the sea at Noyo Harbor
• Princess Seafood (Fort Bragg) – lunch, women-owned, also at Noyo Harbor

And to drink, check out North Coast Brewing Company in Fort Bragg if you enjoy craft beers! Fort Bragg is the area’s largest town, located about 15 minutes drive up the coast from Mendocino’s downtown.

I hope you enjoy the area, including the scenic drive from San Francisco to Mendocino, as much as I have! Let me know in the comments if you have other favorite spots you recommend exploring here.

:: save for later ::

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9.3.21

As we embrace the start of 2022, I wanted to share the happiest day of 2021 (and many years to come, I’m sure!) here with you all.

On September 3, 2021, against the pandemic odds, I got married! I wondered whether to share this personal day in any public way, but I remember how many seeing other weddings online helped me understand what I wanted (and helped me make it through some of the most stressful months of planning.)

Our original, pre-pandemic plan was to host a destination wedding in Sicily, a place that both of us love, part of my new husband’s heritage, and one full of memories from one of our very favorite trips together. We began researching and reaching out to vendors in February 2020, so you can imagine with that timing…that plan didn’t stick for very long. As soon as lockdown happened, followed by COVID spikes in Italy, we accepted that we would need to reroute. (Still, if you are in a position where visiting or getting married in Sicily is feasible, do check out the Tonnara di Scopello — as this would likely have been our venue.)

The next step was to think about why we had initially chosen Sicily. Part of the draw to getting married abroad, other than both of our love for travel, was the opportunity to share a place we love with our guests. We also wanted to focus on sharing an experience rather than putting on an elaborate event. It also didn’t hurt that all wedding-related costs were significantly lower in Sicily.

The nature of a destination wedding also means a smaller group size and accepting that not everyone you would like to be there can indeed attend. It turns out that this mindset helped us pivot into a pandemic-safe wedding size, first dictated by COVID restrictions and then by the size of the venues we chose.

We ended up only being able to accommodate 40 guests, but we made this easier by limiting our guest list to immediate family and bridal party, with the addition of a few local friends who are close to both of us. And of course, what place do we love more than San Francisco?

The Venue

We decided to get married in the city we live in and love so much, our home. Being that neither of us identifies as religious, we loved the idea of getting married in a civic place. San Francisco City Hall is also the site of some of the first gay marriages in California and was a leader in officiating same-sex marriage in this country. We loved the idea of honoring marriage equality and the significance of the site.

Of course, it doesn’t hurt that San Francisco City Hall is one of the most beautiful buildings I’ve ever seen. We didn’t get to tour the interior before we chose it as our venue, but one look at some wedding photos shot there sold me. I was so relieved that we had found a place for our big day that was both meaningful and beautiful to both of us.

Our pandemic pivot was stressful, but in the end we couldn’t have chosen a wedding location that was more “us.”

Getting Ready

I got ready at The Metropolitan Club downtown surrounded by my bridal party. Initially, I wasn’t sure that I wanted bridesmaids, particularly as we were having such a small wedding, but after thinking about it I decided I wanted to honor my closest friends in this way. And when else would I have such an opportunity?

Each bridesmaid chose their own dress in a pale pink color, and I was amazed at how coordinated everyone looked despite not having the same exact dress. My bridesman coordinated his shirt and tie and it meant so much to me to be surrounded by their love and friendship (on average we were looking at 18+ years of being friends!) I got everyone matching pajamas (theirs in pale pink, mine in white) custom-made via Etsy, which added to the morning fun.

After months of decision-making — from the dress and veil to the shoes to the custom rings — it was amazing to see everything come together the morning of.

We drank champagne, noshed on breakfast burritos and fresh fruit together, and took turns getting our hair done. I actually did not know with certainty how my hair would be done the day of, despite having two hair trials, which added some stress. In the end, I was happy with how my curls came out and decided to wear my hair down. I did my own makeup, which was not only more predictable but also relaxing for me!

The Ceremony

SF City Hall has three options for getting married: public, private for 1 hour, or a full buyout. The 1-hour private ceremony was a perfect happy medium for us and our 40 guests.

There are also a couple of location options for private ceremonies. We went with the Fourth Floor Gallery due to the natural light present there.

The ceremony went by so quickly for me! My bridesman Zach played the violin as I walked down the aisle with my dad. We read our own vows, and my aunt officiated. While at times I wished we could have accommodated more guests, I am so, so happy we kept our group size to 40. It felt incredible to feel the most significant people in our lives surrounding us with support. We were also both so in the moment, I don’t know if my brain could’ve taken in any more faces!

Many tears were shed, and then many pictures were taken. Some of my favorite shots are the candids we took as we exited City Hall, and because we had such a small group present we were able to capture some wonderful moments of all our wedding guests together with us.

Then it was time to head over the Golden Gate Bridge, where our reception location awaited!

Dinner and the Reception

When it came to where we would celebrate upon departing City Hall, we considered a range of options. We still had our intention of creating a bit of an experience, even an escape, for our wedding guests, with a sense of place — perhaps by the water. So we looked at having a reception down in Carmel/Big Sur or up in Mendocino. It seemed that perhaps renting out part of a restaurant nearby to City Hall was a better plan until we found…

China Cabin is the former formal social salon of the 19th-century ship P.S. China, one of two ships that used to take mail to and from North America to Asia. When the ship was decommissioned, the local historical society fought to save this part of the ship, decorated in 22-karat gold and dripping with elegance.

They restored it as a Victorian drawing room, which felt in line with the time and history of San Francisco. I’m not kidding when I say that I gasped when I first walked inside. It now sits on the waterfront in Belvedere/Tiburon. Surrounded by hills and with calm waters in the marina below, it has an incredible view of the San Francisco skyline as well, which felt really special.

The space is today lovingly run by the historical society and with the help of volunteers. We loved the idea of contributing to a local nonprofit and celebrating in a historic setting, and this spot checked both those boxes. It also had both outdoor and indoor space (with great ventilation,) which made us feel safer about our fully vaccinated gathering and took away much of the worry that our guests could get the virus. In fact, the weather turned out to be so nice on the day that we spent all of our time outside except for eating dinner (and some of the dancing.)

We kicked things off with a cocktail hour that was longer than an hour. We served favorite wines from France, Spain, Italy, and California, as well as signature cocktails that were each our order on our first date. It was really fun for the two of us to share that with our guests and also, so full circle to cheers on our wedding day with the same drinks we shared the evening we met.

In the spirit of our intended wedding location, we were lucky enough to find caterers who provided the most wonderful Sicilian food. And what amazing food it was! I highly recommend our caterer. The arancini (well, all the cocktail hour apps) and handmade pasta dishes were especially memorable.

There were several other travel and language touches that suited us both as a couple. From a guest book made of vintage postcards (worldwide destinations for me, national parks for him) placed into an old suitcase, to beverages chosen to represent some of our favorite countries, to favors that were a selection of loose-leaf teas sourced from our favorite places (we made our own and chose Japanese, English, and Indian teas!)

I also compiled various favorite poems from both of us and our wedding party and presented those as a ‘pick a poem’ (in a ceramic bowl handmade by my brother) to set the tone as guests arrived.

Of course, my truly only request was to have a champagne tower. I love the celebratory nature of it, and the experience of pouring it together lived up to my hopes and dreams!

Our stunning cake, made by a woman-owned small business, was another highlight. We ordered enough for 60-70 for our 40-person wedding and hardly ended up with leftovers because our guests enjoyed it that much. One friend later confessed to eating four slices (ha.) We opted for vanilla buttercream cake with salted caramel, topped with buttercream peonies. It was also so incredibly beautiful, I couldn’t recommend her cakes more.

We curated our own playlists — one for cocktail hour, one for dinner, and one for dancing — and played them on a large speaker rather than hire a DJ for our small group. We also opted to hire a day-of planner. This is something I was sure we didn’t need, and initially seemed out of our budget, but ended up being a great decision. Turns out even if your wedding is small there are still just as many decisions and often nearly as much to manage. Having a professional (we found her on Thumbtack) run the show made it so that we could relax on the day and also not have to ask anything of our friends or family. We wanted everyone to simply be present and soak in the day, and this helped so much with that. She also helped coordinate our first dance and the father-daughter dance, which was needed since we didn’t have a DJ.

Dinner was calm and gave us a chance to catch our breath. My new husband and I made the rounds and spoke with each of our guests. It still took us quite a bit of time to speak with everyone, but it was wonderful being able to do so.

We rounded out the evening with speeches (unexpectedly many of my favorite moments, I wish I had them on video!) and of course, more dancing. We ended the evening with a small after-party down the road at Sam’s in Tiburon surrounded by our closest friends.

Dealing with the pandemic on every level — from dress shopping to the guest list to the safety on the day of — was not easy. Still, in the end, despite the stressful parts of planning and having to shift our plans multiple times, it was all worth it. I said this to myself throughout the wedding process, but it’s also true in life — that every time my plans are thrown off, I eventually get to where I am meant to be. This was much more difficult to remember in 2020 and 2021, but it turned out to be true. And even if it hadn’t, I came to terms with trusting that being married to my partner was what mattered anyway.

At times we felt like we were in our own little world, and in other moments, like we were surrounded by the people who have had the greatest impact on our individual lives and the life we share together. As someone skeptical about the whole wedding industry, bringing those people together to celebrate an occasion that is so, so happy made having a wedding worth it. The whole day held a feeling I never want to forget.

I can’t help but smile when I realize how it all came together in the end. We both love Europe (and hope to live there someday!) and my husband’s favorite country is Italy, and mine is France. In the end, friends and family noted how much City Hall’s architecture reminded them of France and how much the setting in Belvedere reminded them of Italy.

So, without intending to, we ended up evoking two of the places we love and had hoped to celebrate our marriage in, all while staying close to home and staying safe in the pandemic.

Next up, I’ll be sharing about our honeymoon (and my one international trip in the past two years…) in Greece!

Vendors:

Dress: Novella Bridal – 565 Sutter Street, San Francisco

Photography: Amanda Wei Photography

Rings: La Bijouterie – 388 Market Street #10, San Francisco

Cake: From Flour

Catering: S&S Gastro

Florist: Elizabeth Mauricio

Rentals: Bright Event Rentals

Music: our own playlists – cocktail hour / dinner / dancing

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Activities to Enjoy in Kona + on the Kohala Coast

Read on for the top experiences and my tips for the Kona side of the island

Although travel is such a big part of my life now, like many of us, I didn’t grow up traveling often. Hawaii was the one place I returned to repeatedly as a child. I was lucky enough to grow up spending my October break from school exploring the Big Island’s seas, parks, and beaches.

So I jumped at the recent chance to return with Fairmont Orchid, a resort perched toward the northern tip of the island on the stunning Kohala Coast. I had the chance to experience the beaches and the stunning coastline just off of the property and revisit a few Kona-side locations — longtime favorite places that I’ll share with you here.

If you’re planning a trip to Hawaii’s Big Island, you’ll fly into the Kona International Airport, and, more likely than not, you’ll be staying somewhere along the western or Kona coast side, also known as the “dry side” of the island. 

Here are the places to know about in and around Kona, and my top things to do in Kona and the Kohala Coast. Depending upon your desired daily pace, you can mix and match day and night activities to create your own one-week itinerary for the Big Island.

Kailua-Kona

This is the main town on the Big Island, and where you’ll find most of the island’s historic buildings including King Kamehameha’s former home — as well as most of the shopping. It’s the center of activity and commerce for the island, including the airport you arrived in.

The weather here is dry and sunny most days of the year, and there are some especially charming parts of Kailua-Kona, especially along the coast. I love taking a drive from the center of town along Ali’i Drive, which winds along Kailua Bay. Driving south you’ll hit Keauhou, which I’ll mention more about below.

The Kohala Coast

Heading north from Kona you’ll hit an open stretch of highway until you start seeing turnoffs to the beaches and resorts. Once you see signs for Anaehoomalu Bay, you’ve reached the beautiful Kohala Coast. Several resorts, as well as Waikoloa Village, call this area home.

If you’re staying here you can also expect mostly sunny days, and you’ll have access to some of the best beaches on the island. I recommend having a car regardless, but you’ll need one if the Kohala Coast is your base during your stay.

Things to Do in Kona and Kohala

on the Kona side of the Big Island

Ocean Adventures

Snorkeling and/or Scuba Diving

A huge portion of the Big Island’s beauty lies under the water’s surface. No matter your comfort level with the ocean or with wildlife encounters, there is a range of underwater experiences to suit all.

Manta Ray Night Snorkel

I love scuba diving, but I am terrified of any night dive/swim/snorkel. I finally had the chance to snorkel with the mantas in Keahou Bay, and let me just say: 1) they took care of everything so well that I wasn’t even scared and 2) it was one of the most rewarding experiences I’ve had in the ocean (or on land.)

Whether it comforts or annoys you that you’ll be surrounded by dozens of other people while you snorkel with them, it doesn’t matter much because you’re head in the sea, relaxing and drifting above a light that attracts the phytoplankton they eat. I went with SeaQuest and found it to be a fantastic operation all around.

Swimming with Sea Turtles

One of the most magical creatures you can see in the Kona waters is the honu, or sea turtle. They are quite present and chances are that you’ll see one if you snorkel multiple times during your trip. (Please do not disturb them on land or sea — keep your distance and show some respect.)

That said, you can certainly increase your chances by choosing your snorkeling site accordingly. I went in the ocean every morning (snorkeling is always best in the morning!) while staying at the Fairmont Orchid, and the bay off of the resort is one of the best spots I’ve ever found…I saw them every single time.

Snorkeling for Beginners and/or Kids

Another good spot to spot sea turtles is also one of the most family-friendly snorkel sites by Kona. Although it can get crowded due to its popularity and central location, Kahalu’u Beach Park is a sheltered cove with easy entry/exit similar to the Fairmont beach option. These calmer waters tend to attract both the turtles and the newer snorkelers (plus tons of fish!)

Kona by Boat

By far my favorite way to experience the Kona area and Kohala Coast is from the water and on a boat. Here are my top recommendations for how to do so:

Visit Kealakekua Bay

Located south of Kona and just after Keahou, Kealakekua Bay is one of the most beautiful spots on the Kona coast. Known to some as Captain Cook’s Bay for the presence of the Captain Cook monument there (it’s where he was killed,) it’s most notably a marine reserve and one of the best spots to snorkel on the island.

The last time I visited I drove and parked at the southern side of the bay, bringing my own gear (rented from Boss Frog’s in downtown Kona) and snorkeling along the water’s edge. I don’t recommend this route unless you favor ocean exploration and are an experienced swimmer, but it can be done without guidance.

For most of my visits, I opt for renting a kayak or taking a boat trip to the bay. Kealakekua is the focus of the Fairwind II snorkel trip, so you’ll see it if you book with them.

Go Surfing and/or Boogie Boarding

Until I get better at surfing someday, boogie boarding or even body surfing is my wave action of choice. Always be aware of surf conditions before entering the water, and if you’re hesitant about safety better to stay onshore than be swept away.

I recommend purchasing an inexpensive boogie board if your accommodation doesn’t have any, and you plan on riding waves for more than a few days as it often won’t cost much more than a rental would. (But it depends on the length of your stay.)

Adventures on Land

Most of the land-based adventures you’ll want to seek will be somewhat of a drive from Kona the west side of the Big Island. Still, there are a few that are closer that I recommend:

Visit a Kona Coffee Farm

If you’re a coffee connoisseur or enthusiast, it’s worth seeking out Kona coffee — grown in the rich volcanic soil and known worldwide for its quality. Take it one step further and you can visit a coffee farm to learn about and see the production process.

Find a Farmer’s Market

Since I grew up enjoying the Kona Costco as my main food stop, this is a recent find for me. Tropical fruits, local, handcrafted products, and more await. The main Kona Farmers Market runs Wednesday to Sunday from 7 am to 4 pm, but here’s a list of all the farmers markets on the island.

If you’re interested in exploring the island by land rather than sea, you’ll want to rent a car and check out the spots below. All are day-trippable from the Kona and Kohala coasts, but some are longer drives than others.

Explore the Towns of Waimea and Hawi

Waimea and Hawi are both a short drive from the Kohala Coast and offer a bit more of a local, small-town feel than Kona or Hilo. In Waimea, be sure to check out Arvo for coffee, Pau for amazing breakfast burritos or pizza, and Hawaiian Style Cafe for their loco moco and haupia pancakes — both of which will give you a taste of local Hawaiian flavor on a huge scale (the pancakes are seriously the largest ones I’ve ever seen.)

Very Worthwhile Big Island Day Trips

(the top three are musts for me)

Hawaiian Cultural Experiences

Place of Refuge / Puuhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park

This is my favorite place to go on the island to connect with the history and culture of Hawaii. The Place of Refuge provided a place for Hawaiians to seek safety and forgiveness from a priest when fleeing a crime. Located just south of Kealakekua Bay, making it a great combination activity to do both in one day.

Hula Lessons

It’s one thing to admire hula at a luau, and another to try dancing it yourself! I had the best time learning about the beautiful Hawaiian form of storytelling and movement as a part of my stay at Fairmont Orchid (reserve in advance.) It seems that most hula lessons for the public are given at hotels and resorts

Waikoloa Petroglyphs

This was another discovery on my most recent trip, as it was very close to where I stayed. Even though you have to walk through a resort to get to them, connecting with the centuries-old art carved into the rock is humbling. Get there via a short stroll from the Waikoloa Hotel (near Kings’ Shops.)

Spa/Relaxation

Spa Without Walls

In my ideal world, every spa would share this concept — open-air massage with the sound of waterfalls or the ocean, the touch of a warm sea breeze, and the shade of a tropical tree.

Even if you aren’t staying at the hotel, it’s worth seeking a relaxing treatment at the Fairmont Orchid spa (treat yourself.) Their pool and hammocks are also lovely for relaxing.

Standup Paddle Board Yoga on the Ocean

I hadn’t been on a SUP in the ocean before, and I certainly hadn’t done yoga on one! This was one of my favorite new experiences on the Big Island.

It was a standard vinyasa yoga class in the most non-standard location. You take a board from the shore out to the shallow bay at the Fairmont Orchid just as the sun is rising. And even though I’m a seasoned yogi who practices regularly, I still managed to fall in the water — but I didn’t mind! It was wonderful to practice in such a peaceful place where my balance was still challenged (and I could see fish swimming underneath my feet the whole time!)

Beach Time

Whether you want a private beach cabana or simply want your toes in the sand, you can’t beat beach time on the Big Island. Most of the best beaches on the Kona side — see below for my favorites!

P.S. Know Your Public Beach Rights

Most of the Big Island’s best beaches can be found on the same stretch of the Kohala Coast. One thing I wish I had realized earlier is that many of the top resorts have to allow public beach access and free parking to a limited number of visitors per day. This means you can enjoy some of the best beaches right on luxury resort properties without paying the hundreds (or thousands) per night to stay there.

A few to note include the Mauna Kea Beach (Kauna’oa) at the Mauna Kea Resort, Kikaua Beach at Kukio Golf Resort, and Kukio Beach at the Four Seasons Hualalai. Simply ask for public beach access at the gated areas before arrival. There is a limit on the number of daily visitors, so your best bet is to arrive as early as possible in the day.

Big Island Beaches >> Kona side

Makalawena Beach

This is my favorite beach in the world. Although I will often take a boat here, you can also access it by land. You have to hike for a bit over lava rock (I recommend doing this in the early morning — much more pleasant,) but the reward is fewer crowds — and one of the most beautiful beaches in the world (in my humble opinion.)

How to find it: the entrance to it is located between mile markers 90 and 91. If you have trouble finding it by map, look for Kekaha Kai State Park, which it is a part of. Head to nearby Kua Bay (also a great beach) if you’d like easier access. Both are just north of Kona International Airport.

Beach 69

Another somewhat hidden local favorite, Beach 69 (named so for its location near the mile marker, of course) aka Waialea Bay is all-around wonderful. I think it’s best for snorkeling and shade, naturally provided during most of the day by the many trees on the beach.

Kauna’ona Beach

Growing up this was just the Mauna Kea beach to me as it is directly in front of the Mauna Kea Beach Resort (a beautiful hotel.) What most people don’t realize is that there is public parking (although limited) at the hotel for access to this beautiful beach. It’s a lot like Hapuna but on a smaller scale.

Hapuna Beach

This is the long and wide white sand beach of your Hawaii dreams. Although it is home to resort traffic and can get crowded, its beauty and convenience make it a draw — particularly so for swimmers, boogie boarders, and families.

Anaehoomalu Bay

Known to many as simply ‘A Bay,’ Anaehoomalu is a favorite for windsurfing and sunsets.

If you’re looking for more beach information, or simply any information at all to be frank — I recommend the latest version of this guidebook which I have been using for 20+ years (the best.)

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I hope this gives you the guidance you seek for the most excellent trip to Hawaii’s Kohala Coast and Kailua-Kona. Let me know which part you love most! Mahalo <3

UPDATED: March 2023. Disclaimer: One of my many visits to the Big Island was in collaboration with the Fairmont Orchid. All opinions and destination recommendations come from decades of trips and are distinctly my own.

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An itinerary fit for two days…or two months (mon dieu.)

My wish and hope for you is that you have more than a weekend in Paris. Alors, a visitor’s mindset is that it’s always ‘le weekend’…plus, few days in Paris is better than no time in Paris at all!

Most years, I spend most of October in France. And most of that time is spent in Paris.

(By the way, October is the best month to be in Paris – if you ask me.)

There is something magical about any time spent in the French capital, particularly if you’re a visitor to the city. Even if you have just a weekend in Paris, you can take a ‘flaneur’ or ‘flaneuse’ approach, which just means one who wanders for pleasure and without aim.

If your ideal Paris weekend includes a desire to hit the major museums and monuments, or if you haven’t visited before, you may wish to spend your time differently and take a meandering approach on a return visit. This relaxed, curious method of exploring the city can be frustrating for someone who has limited time or is visiting for the first time — I get that.

If you had only a weekend to spend in Paris, would you run around checking off boxes, seeing as many sights as possible, and queueing to see a famous piece of art? Or would you stroll along the Seine, linger over a book in a cafe, and picnic in a park?

I will guide you not by ‘what to do on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday.’ I will instead give you the framework resulting from my many favorite days and weeks in the city. And if you have visited before, I believe this ‘Weekend in Paris’ way of experiencing the city will open up its beauty to you in a whole new way.

Let the mindset of the purposeful wandering of the flâneur be your guide.

Pick an arrondissement and make it your base for the whole time you’re there.

It’s most convenient to choose your accommodation in this neighborhood as well, but you don’t have to.

A few favorites:

Choose a pâtisserie you can go back to each morning of your trip.

Of course the one you choose would ideally be near your accommodation so that you can get to know the people there and greet them every morning or so, almost as if you lived there.

A few suggestions:

I also love visiting Stohrer, the oldest pâtisserie in Paris (located in the Marais))

Get a place with a balcony.

Not a 100% necessary move, but one that is certainly enjoyable. I like drinking my local coffee and/or wine on a balcony that’s private to me, as well as enjoying the big windows and absorbing Paris in motion from above. (Recommended apartments listed at end of post!)

Bring your own picnic to a park.

Some recommended parks for picnics:

Suggested picnic goods:

Rent bikes using the Velib system.

Or, take a stroll on the Seine

Be a flâneur/flâneuse.

One of the greatest pleasures of Paris is simply wandering the streets with no plan. Put on your best walking shoes, soak in the beauty, and give it a try — you never know what you might find.

Not sure where to start? I love strolling from Saint-Germain-des-Prés past the Notre Dame cathedral, some of the most beautiful bridges across the Seine, and the Île Saint Louis, perhaps stopping for ice cream at Berthillon or in to see the impressive stained glass at Saint Chapelle. Nearby you’ll find one of my favorite tucked-away squares, Place Dauphine. This is one of my favorite self-led walking tours in all the city and the recipe for the perfect Paris day. Enjoy <3

Discover French wine at a local wine bar.

Wander into a wine bar at happy hour or later in the evening. Discover regions of wine (Bordeaux, Burgundy, Loire, etc.) and enjoy the free-flowing inexpensive wines. Particularly good on a Paris weekend. I love:

Dine at a classic bistro.

Lingering over classic French food at a long-standing Parisian bistro is always a good idea. A few I recommend:

Sit en terrasse for a few hours.

Like the seated version of being a flaneur, one of the very best ways to experience Paris is to watch the world pass by from a cafe. You can’t go too far without running into one, but here are some cafe etiquette tips, along with a few favorite cafes:

Try out a newer restaurant.

Modern Paris has a variety of cultures and cuisines to sample. Check out Septime, Semilla, Verjus, Papillion, and Frenchie (to name a few) for some fantastic food that’s more modern than classic. There are also some incredible restaurants with non-French cuisine if you’re looking for more options. Pick up the book The New Paris before your trip for more.

A few more (local) dining resources:

Enjoy some of the excellent lesser-known museums.

If you’ve seen them before, I highly recommend skipping the fight with the crowds at The Louvre and D’Orsay. Many of the smaller museums of Paris are sadly overlooked by even frequent visitors. The three I’d head to first are:

Go in search of France’s regional cuisines.

There is a lot to love about Parisian food, and don’t think just in terms of French food! However, here are a few to taste from other regions of France while you’re in the city.

Explore the French pharmacy – especially if you’re interested in skincare.

And, Choose Your Own Adventure

Make a pilgrimage to Shakespeare and Company, Paris’s most famous English bookstore. It’s a friendly and important home to a lot of the city’s past and present literary scene.

See the Eiffel Tower up close. If you’ve already stood under it/beside it, check out a new angle or sit at a cafe that has a view of it. (I once tried to skip the Eiffel Tower on a visit, insisting I didn’t need to visit it, but I caved and went to see it and lo and behold, it still charms.) Another good, somewhat hidden spot to view it is the rooftop terrace of the Galeries Lafayettes — simply go to the 7th floor of the department store for a (free) panoramic view of Paris.

Versailles is truly a sight to behold, and it’s a quick train ride from Paris. If you’re really interested in going, it’s very worth it. However, there is so much to do/see in Paris I usually recommend staying in the city if you only have limited time. It remains one of the best day trips from Paris.

What to pack for a weekend in Paris:

How to Make French Friends (or at the least, have the best chance of starting off on a good foot wherever you go:)

Say ‘bonjour’ or ‘bonsoir’ and ‘merci, au revoir’ as you enter and exit any storefront or restaurant.  Even if you don’t speak any other French, it’s an important part of French culture to say these things upon entry/exit and will you put you miles ahead of others for service and general friendliness when in Paris.

Also, it may sound funny but smiling is generally frowned upon (ha.) You’ll find that French people may not be as warm and friendly as you’re used to in other places, especially if you’re coming from the States. Remember, this does not mean they’re not lovely people — and you might find that out with a little bit of spoken French and/or working to fit into French culture while you’re there.

Where to Stay in Paris

Bon voyage <3

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This cheap eats post is for the San Francisco restaurant seekers whose stomachs and wallets wish to be full (or at least, less empty.)

Updated July 2023

Whether you’re visiting on a backpacker budget or you’re simply trying to pay rent here, it is hardly breaking news that San Francisco is an expensive city. (I do believe that the cost has been a bit sensationalized, but hey, that is a discussion for another day.)

Whatever your reason for searching for cheap eats in San Francisco, budget meals are always a refreshing alternative to the restaurants we most often read about — they’re new, exciting, and more and more…they’re probably pricing out large groups of people.

It’s nice (comforting even) to know there are still great meals to be had in SF that don’t break the bank. These fantastic foods deliver when you want something that’s both full of flavor and spend-conscious. Let’s get started.

Cheap and Casual Go-Tos

Saigon Sandwich

Vietnamese, Sandwiches // Tenderloin
Very limited seating – best for takeaway

Perhaps the best-known cheap eat in the city (and certainly one of the tastiest,) Saigon Sandwich is a small stand serving delicious bánh mì sandwiches. The whole sandwich still sells for less than $5 and is filling enough to constitute an entire meal.

Yamo

Burmese // Mission District
Counter-seating only

I’ve waxed poetic about Yamo before and it remains of the best places to get a quick and cheap plate of noodles or tea leaf salad for under $10. Burmese is a cuisine that’s hard to find outside of SF (or Burma,) so bonus points for uniqueness as well as tastiness. Pull up a stool and get ready for one of the best casual meals the city has to offer. It’s particularly great after walking all day or drinking all night in the Mission. Cash only.

Muracci’s Japanese Curry

Japanese // Downtown/FiDi
Limited seating

If you haven’t yet had Japanese curry, you’re in for a real treat. And if you have, this is one of the better spots to get it. An entire lunch plate with salad, appetizer, rice, and miso soup only sets you back a cool $12.95.

4505 BBQ

Barbecue // Divisadero St.
Picnic table seating

4505 has some of the best barbecue available in the Bay Area and offers plate deals that come in with a choice of meat and two sides for a mere $12.95. I love coming here for dinner after taking advantage of the great happy hour and seafood at Bar Crudo next door. (P.S. They just opened one across the bay in Oakland, too.)

Cordon Bleu

Vietnamese // Polk St.
Counter seating only

This hole-in-the-wall (for lack of a better term) mystified me for months while walking by. Their meat sauce that’s on most dishes is a love or hate situation, but there’s no denying they have some of the most delicious hot plates of cheap food in this city. Try the #5 combo with rice noodles if you’re unsure — it’s always a crowd-pleaser. Cash only.

Udupi Palace

South Indian // Valencia St.

Canteen-style South Indian food with massive, authentic portions for $10? Where do I sign? Seriously though, this is one of the better Indian spots in the city and its casual atmosphere comes with a bargain price. But the flavors are rich! Try the thali (a traditional plate with a little bit of everything) or the house curry dosa if you’re unsure of what to order.

Pakwan

North Indian/Pakistani // Tenderloin + Mission District
BYOB

Pakwan is the gold standard for best-value meals in SF. All the dishes (even Biryani) are less than $10, and most apps/small plates come in ~$3. Try the chicken tikka masala — some call it the best in the city. If you’re up for venturing outside the classics, order one of the sumptuous eggplant or lamb dishes. You’re in for a treat.

Zen Yai

Thai // Tenderloin

I first came here in search of boat noodles, which are hard to find anywhere outside of Thailand. Theirs are authentic and very good. I came back for more noodles (of course,) and then stayed for the range of other inexpensive and delicious Thai dishes. At around $8 per dish, Zen Yai is easily ~$5 less per portion than most Thai restaurants in San Francisco. It’s lots of great street food served in a very casual restaurant setting.

Hot Sauce and Panko

Chicken Wings // Nob Hill
Minimal seating; best for takeaway

They serve only one (well, two) main dishes here: chicken wings and fried chicken. Yep, you guessed it — with hot sauce, sides, and a variety of flavor combinations. Most ring up at $6.89, and even if you want to go full-on chicken and waffles you’re still looking at $10 max. This spot is a local’s favorite for a reason.

Golden Boy Pizza

Sicilian-style Pizza // North Beach
Limited seating

Pizza al taglio, or by the square, is more commonly seen in Italy but it makes for one of the best late-night (and cheap) eats in San Francisco. Most recommended are the vegetarian (piled high with well-seasoned veg,) or the unique clam and garlic slice. Most pieces are only $3.75. Cash only.

Aicha

Moroccan // Polk St.
BYOB

This delicious, low-key Moroccan spot not only has excellent food but the option to bring your own booze (no corkage fee,) making it one of the most affordable spots for a fantastic meal out and an especially good option for groups.

Tacos and Dumplings

(Because they deserve their own category.)

For reliably delicious bite-sized food that’s cheap more often than not.

Tacos on the Cheap

Taqueria Cancun

Cancun is one of the best taquerias in the Mission and is a great place to eat well on the cheap. All of their preparations are good, but I especially love the adobada here. Enjoy the chips and salsa while you wait as well!

La Taqueria

“La Taq” is a cult favorite for Mission burritos and tacos for a reason. It’s simply the best. Their carnitas burrito has repeatedly been titled “the best burrito in America,” but their tacos are standouts as well. Ask for either to be “dorado,” and they’ll throw it on the grill until the tortilla is a crispy, delicious golden brown.

Pancho Villa

While Pancho Villa isn’t always considered the best taco in town, it is fantastic and also one of the few Mission taquerias to offer specials on Taco Tuesday ($1.50 tacos! from 3-5pm.) They also have what I think is the best salsa bar in town. I like to grab an order of a few tacos to go and go take it to eat in nearby Dolores Park.

Nick’s Crispy Tacos

Although not a Mission standard, Nick’s tacos are certainly beloved and budget. You can grab Taco Tuesday specials of two for $7 (and they’re good-sized too!) It’s worth it to add $1 for “Nick’s Way,” which adds guacamole, cheese, and a crispy taco shell to the outside of their standard taco.

El Burrito Express (aka EBX)

A local’s favorite for many, EBX has great tacos and burritos for under $10 and two locations in the city (on Divisadero in Lower Pac Heights and on Taraval in the Outer Sunset.)

Dumplings on the Cheap

Good Mong Kok Bakery

This is one of the better-known quality dim sum spots in San Francisco’s Chinatown. As such, lines can be long during peak meal hours; the difference is the food here is worth the wait.

Xiao Long Bao

Named for the Shanghai soup dumpling, this spot has a ton of other dim sum favorites as well. You can have a complete feast here on the cheap — with each order costing between $1-3.

Good Luck Dim Sum

Another Clement St. dim sum favorite. They’re known for having a wide-ranging menu of tasty options. I recommend picking up from a few spots along Clement if you want to create your own dumpling crawl!

Wing Lee

Come here for the best chicken buns in the city (~$1 each.) Their other dumplings are also good.

Dim Sum Club

This hidden Russian Hill spot is located underneath a hotel on Van Ness, so it’s a surprising find. Great dim sum and noodles, though!

Kingdom of Dumpling

Located on Taraval Street — a favorite in the outer Sunset for all kinds of food — this spot is affordable and perhaps the best in the city. You can dine in or pick up their many delicious dumplings, many of which freeze extremely well, too. Don’t miss the beef pancake and the red bean sesame dessert!

Food Trucks

San Francisco’s answer to street food (unless you count those Mission street hot dogs for drunk people,) you can find food trucks throughout the city. They’re almost always delicious and reasonably priced.

Most congregate downtown during the lunch hour to feed the workplace masses, but you can also search for an Off the Grid event. Those take place throughout the week across the Bay Area, and consistently at both Fort Mason (Friday nights) and The Presidio (Thursday evenings and Sundays) but be sure to check their schedule as they operate seasonally. Another gathering of trucks to note is the SoMa StrEat Food Park and my personal favorite space, Spark Social in Mission Bay (hello, cozy firepits.)

Another spot to note is the latest food truck find, at the new Tunnel Tops park in the Presidio. Favorites include the New Zealand-inspired coffee and matcha truck California Kahve and Kuker, which serves incredible Bulgarian food that’s tough to find otherwise.

Perennial food truck favorites include Curry Up Now, Senor Sisig, Chairman Bao, and many others (Also note that many of the most popular and therefore successful food trucks now also have brick-and-mortar restaurants throughout the city.) 

If you find yourself in Fisherman’s Wharf and you’re not going to Scoma’s for seafood (worth every penny,) check out The Codmother fish and chips truck, if so inclined. And one of my very favorite meals in the entire city can be found in a truck every Saturday beside the Ferry Building Marketplace…the divinely delicious porchetta sandwich from Roli Roti.

Cheaper Alternatives to Classic SF Restaurants

Thinking Rich Table? Try RT Rotisserie

Rich Table (ooh my, those porcini donuts) is one of my favorite spots to dine in the city, but it’s not always a cost-conscious choice. You can get similar, quality food at the much more casual RT Rotisserie brought to you by the same restaurant team. (Think rotisserie chicken with excellent sauces and sides!)

Thinking Cala? Try Tacos Cala (Update: it appears to be closed – check their website before going)

Cala is the sister restaurant of Contramar, a well-loved seafood restaurant in Mexico City. Although Cala offers some of the best formal Mexican food in the city, you can still get a taste of the flavors at their back-door Tacos Cala. It’s only open for lunch (11am-2pm.) The taqueria entrance is on Hickory Street and is standing-room only.

Thinking Atelier Crenn? Try Petit Crenn

While neither is a particularly budget dining experience, if you were going to splurge on one meal…an offering from chef/goddess Dominique Crenn (the first female 3* Michelin chef in America) would be hard to pass up. Whether it’s lack of a reservation or funds keeping you from her flagship restaurant, Petit Crenn offers a chance to experience her food and concepts at more palatable price points. Also note the vintage Parisian-inspired wine bar Bar Crenn in the Cow Hollow neighborhood.

Thinking Slanted Door? Try Out the Door

Located right on the water of the Embarcadero, The Slanted Door is one of SF’s most classic offerings. With fresh and finely prepared Vietnamese cuisine, it’s a great place to sit and indulge. However, you can also experience the food at Out the Door — a storefront in the Ferry Building, or a more casual restaurant in Lower Pac Heights. You can still get the incredible Dungeness crab glass noodles at either.

I hope this helps illuminate some of the better cheap eats in San Francisco, as well as alternative price points for some of the city’s most cherished fine dining options. Do let me know if you have other wallet-friendly favorites!

—

P.S. Soleil Ho, the amazing (former) food critic at the San Francisco Chronicle, wrote about the cost of food in the city and its effects on food culture and criticism. Very worth a read.

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Whitefish, Montana draws many visitors to its popular ski resort and for its proximity to the stunning Glacier National Park, and rightfully so. It is also a destination in its own right — a welcoming and wonderful small town with bold mountain landscapes right at its doorstep.

For years I’ve felt drawn to Montana. The town of Whitefish is surprisingly well-known given its size; I think that has something to do with its feel both as a chic resort village and hidden mountain escape. With its community feel, fresh mountain air, and a gem of a culinary scene, Whitefish was a great home base for my first stay in the state.

Whether you’re staying there to visit the park or simply to enjoy the town and surrounds itself, there is lots to love about this beautiful part of America. Here is an overview of the top things to do in Whitefish:

Get Outside: Hiking, Biking, and More In Whitefish

Whitefish Trail

With 10+ trailheads and 42 miles of natural surface to walk, bike, or hike on right next to town, there are plenty of scenic views and forested paths to keep any nature-lover happy. Some of the most popular hikes include Lion Mountain and Swift Creek. Whitefish Trail is runner, dog, horse, and kid-friendly.

You find all the trailheads and a trail map here.

Whitefish Bike Retreat

Located just outside town, the Whitefish Bike Retreat is a lodge, hub, and training center created especially for bikers. As someone who had never been on a mountain bike before, I headed out here to learn some new skills and try out some of the nearby trails.

Whether you’re going for the day, camping overnight, or staying at the lodge — or even just popping in for a coffee or a beer during your ride — you’ll find some of the friendliest faces (including cute dogs!) to welcome you. They’re uniquely equipped to help with any and all biking needs, so it’s a good spot to know of if you plan on doing any mountain biking while in town. I highly recommend this spot!

Whitefish Lake

The glacial lake bearing the same name as the town is a favorite spot for visitors and locals alike. In the summer you can lounge in the sun or in shaded areas along the water, or, if you prefer to be active, rent a kayak or stand-up paddleboard and take to the lake. There is also a public boat launch and designated areas for swimming.

Viking Creek Trail

An interpretive trail that’s great for families, you can expect educational signage and a newly groomed trail that feels safe and easy to walk on but fully immersed in the wetlands nature. Look out for the bear claw marks on some of the trees! With accessibility for all visitors, this is one of the best mellow outdoor things to do in Whitefish. It’s also free to access.

Winter Activities vs. Summer Activities

There’s also skiing of course, in the wintertime. Whitefish Mountain Resort is the biggest draw. In the summer you can also seek out mountain biking, hiking, and zip-lining here.

Golfing, rock climbing, fishing, whitewater rafting, kayaking, and even skydiving are all ways to get out into the Great Outdoors in and around Whitefish, depending on the weather and your personal thirst for and/or comfort level with adventure.

Side note: if it’s raining, or you don’t want to be outside, check out the Whitefish Theatre Company. They put on excellent productions!

Visit Glacier National Park (A Must)

Going-to-the-Sun Road

The famous Going-to-the-Sun Road is a fantastic way to easily see many of the highlights of the park. Parts of the path are open year-round, but you will want to plan and time your visit based on who the road is open to. At times it’s open to just bikers (as it was during my visit,) and not to motorized vehicles. This is largely dependent on the weather conditions, so be sure to check their website for updates ahead of your trip. Here’s a general overview of the seasonal access in the park:

Open Year-Round: The road from West Glacier to Lake McDonald Lodge

Open to Bikes and Pedestrians Only: Shoulder season (usually May/October)

Open to Cars: Summer (June-Aug/Sept.)

You can rent a car and drive on the road during the summer months. If you’re hiking or biking, you can grab the Whitefish Shuttle from town. They go both to Glacier National Park and to the Whitefish Trailheads mentioned above.

I recommend taking advantage of the small period when the Going-to-the-Sun Road is open to bikes and pedestrians only. Although you’ll have to power your own transportation, you can see more of the park in the same amount of time. While it’s possible you may encounter less-than-favorable weather, you’ll avoid most of the crowds. (Highly recommended.)

You can check out current information, as well as the dates of past openings and closings, on the official Glacier National Park Going-to-the-Sun information page.

And if you’re looking for a guide specific to Glacier National Park (as well as Banff and Jasper) I recommend this one.

Taste the Local Brews and Spirits

Big Sky Brews Cruise

I was able to visit two fantastic local beer spots — Great Northern Brewery and Bonsai Brewing Project — with the help of this great tour (and no need to worry about drinking and driving!)

Spotted Bear Spirits

I loved the cocktails I tasted from this local spirits producer. You can visit their distillery, which uses local and organic botanicals, and try their seasonal cocktail menu, which reflects the changing seasons of Glacier County.

Partake in Some Whitefish Wellness

Yoga at Yoga Hive

I loved the class I took with Yoga Hive Montana, which has locations in downtown Whitefish and nearby Kalispell. Even better are their yoga classes at Whitefish Lodge (if offered.) You can do yoga with a view of the lake and a mimosa afterward!

Himalayan salt treatments at SaltBox

I live for my Himalayan salt lamp at home, so it was a treat to experience the new SaltBox in downtown Whitefish. You can relax in their salt rooms, in which microparticles of salt enable dry salt therapy that can help with breathing, skin, sleep, and overall wellness. They also have an infrared sauna (perfect for cold days or after long hikes.)

Dine Out, Montana Style

The Best Whitefish Restaurants

I’ve got an upcoming post with more details about where to eat in Whitefish.

For now, restaurant highlights include:

How to Get to Whitefish, MT

Whitefish, MT’s closest airport is Glacier Park International, which is a short 15-minute drive to downtown. Several direct flights are available (although some are seasonal,) ranging from Seattle and Denver to Los Angeles and Atlanta. For my Bay Area folks, there is seasonal direct service from OAK on Allegiant, but the trip from SFO with a quick stop in Denver is fine, too. The aforementioned Whitefish Shuttle does airport drop-offs/pick-ups to get you into town. If you fancy taking the train, Amtrak has a station right in the heart of Whitefish. Or, I hear the drive into town (from nearby states) is spectacular!

Where to Stay in Whitefish

The well-established Lodge at Whitefish Lake is popular and so lovely, but so are many of the smaller B&Bs and apartments in town. Here are the best of them:

Whether you’re planning a trip and looking for things to do in Whitefish MT or you’re now thinking about going…I hope this sets you up to experience the best of the area! Let me know if I can help with any further questions before or during your trip.

*My trip was made possible with the help of Explore Whitefish, but all opinions and recommendations are completely my own.

Cheers!

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I’m not the first traveler to yearn for Provence. Its many French villages and hill towns are the best places to visit in the South of France. Not to mention its stone castles, hillside olive groves, sidewalk cafes, and lavender fields, all of which are the places travel dreams are made of.

Southern France’s cities are also lively and lovely; I particularly love the areas around Marseille and Nice. Yet it’s the small towns in France that really give you that Provencal glow, the feeling of soft, golden light carried by a faint breeze. It’s the kind that makes you want to skip through fields, or linger on a terrace amongst the streets with the wafting air of fresh pastries.

If you’re planning a trip, I hope you’ll make Provence and its villages part of your stay. Here are the best places to visit in the South of France, designed for a week (or so) depending on how much exploring versus relaxing you want to do.

Provence’s Best French Towns, Hills, and Villages

I recommend choosing a base depending on where you want to focus your time. All of the small French towns in this region are within a day’s driving distance, but I personally recommend minimizing your driving time (although the drives are quite scenic!) Most recently I focused on the Luberon, and it was my favorite part of Provence to date.

For a home base, I’d choose from Avignon (my personal favorite,) Aix-en-Provence (a little larger French town further south,) or Cassis, if you want to be on the coast. All three towns have that French charm and relaxed Provence feel and are well-located for visiting the rest of the area.

You could also stay in the smaller villages listed below, but I personally like to stay centrally in a bigger area and visit these villages by day.

Avignon

Set on the banks of the Rhône River and endlessly charming, Avignon is a wonderful medieval city that still feels like a small village. There are many great places to dine and sip, streets to wander, and sights to see.

Avignon is a great place to stay, and it’s well-connected by train (especially if you’re coming from Paris.) I recommend exploring the city center and its open squares, markets, and cafes. Be sure to check out the lively Rue des Teinturiers for some of the most beautiful architecture and best restaurants.

A little-known fact: Avignon was once the seat of the Catholic Pope (in the 14th century,) before returning its hub to the Vatican. You can visit the Palais des Papes in the city center to learn more.

From Avignon, you can easily visit the neighboring towns below. Each has a distinct beauty and landscape, so they all are worth seeing if you have the time!

Gordes

Gordes might just be the prettiest hilltop village in France.

I loved driving here to explore the cobblestone streets for the day and have lunch. I also recommend having a glass of rosé or a cocktail on the terrace of La Bastide de Gordes, which has one of the best views in town.

Don’t miss the beautiful Senenque Abbey, well-photographed for its surrounding lavender fields.

Roussillon

Roussillon is another hilltop village with a distinct feature — its coloring. Built on and around large ochre deposits, the town’s buildings have a red-orange tint from all the clay.

Aside from checking out the village, you can walk the nature trails amongst the ochre cliffs.

L’Isle sur la Sorgue

A quick stop on your way back to Avignon, L’Isle sur la Sorgue is best known for its antique shops and markets. The ‘island’ town got its name from the canals running through it.

The largest of the antique markets takes place on Sunday morning – prepare to arrive early if you are driving and will need parking.

Saint-Remy-de-Provence

A little farther south from Avignon is this wonderful Provencal town. I thoroughly enjoyed dining (and even doing a little shopping) here. There is a truly delightful chocolate shop called Joël Durand that is a must.

Les-Baux-des-Provence

Similar to Gordes, this tiny village on top of a bed of rock is frequently noted as one of France’s most beautiful towns. There are only 22 residents atop the rock, but there are winding cobblestone streets and panoramic views for the visitor.

Arles

I stayed in Arles on one of my first visits to Provence and enjoyed the market, Roman amphitheater, and galleries. If you recognize Arles, it may be because Van Gogh lived here and painted some of his most iconic works of the town.

French Towns: Coast and Nature Focus

Aix-en-Provence

Aix is known for its 1,000 fountains, its wide boulevards and Cours Mirabeau, and sidewalk cafes. It has captured the hearts of artists, writers, and intellectuals who have flocked to the town for centuries.

Cassis

A seaside town on the Mediterranean coast, Cassis is just as romantic as it sounds. It’s a great village to see not far from Marseille. Try some fresh seafood at one of the cafes.

Massif de Calanques

Many visitors to Provence seem to miss these coastal coves and inlets, but they are part of one of the country’s most beautiful national parks. You can opt either to hike or boat alongside the cliffs, stopping to rest at a beach or climbing a hill for some heartstopping ocean views. You can also walk the path from Cassis to the Calanque d’En-Vau, one of the most picturesque.

For more of the best South of France destinations, check out:

• For wine, Chateauneuf-du-Pape
• For lavender fields (seasonal,) Valensole
• For nature, Gorges du Verdon
• For more of the Côte d’Azur, Villefranche-sur-mer and Eze (both just outside of Nice.) The seaside cities of Antibes, Monaco, Cannes, and Saint-Tropez are all options as well.

And for more: Provence reading.

Bon voyage mes amis!

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Hello and welcome! I’m a San Francisco food and travel writer who loves exploring and sharing the dynamic SF culinary scene. Each month I’ll highlight five spots — a list of where to eat in San Francisco that I’m truly loving in this moment.

They’ll be a combination of what’s new and exciting in the SF restaurant scene  (because let’s face it, I probably went there to try it and I probably have some opinions,) as well as some classic places that I either went back to for the hundredth time or finally got around to.

My hope is that this series will be a regular answer to the question “Where should I eat in San Francisco?” whether you’re a local or a visitor to my fine city!

Best Places to Eat in San Francisco

The Best San Francisco Restaurants, beloved by this local

Volume 8

Written: June/July 2019 | Updated: July 2021

Tosca Cafe

Italian Food // North Beach
242 Columbus Avenue

This place has been on my list for so long, I can hardly believe I finally checked it off. Some girlfriends and I went before catching Beach Blanket Babylon (a fabulous local live show — the longest running musical revue in the country, and due to close at the end of the year.)

I went in not sure what to expect given some mixed reviews. I had heard about the house cappuccino (hint: it’s alcoholic and made with Dandelion chocolate,) and have friends that both love and really didn’t love the food here.

My take? I enjoyed it immensely. I wouldn’t say it’s the very best food you can get in the city, but it makes for a great night out and it’s a meal I’d love to repeat.

Go and see for yourself and let me know if you love it or hate?

Menu Highlights:

The highlights here for me were the market salad, the local halibut crudo, lumacomi pasta, and the pork loin. Get the famous House Cappuccino for dessert.

Revelry Bistro

French Cuisine // Lower Haight
297 Page Street

I’d been to Revelry, which is right on the border of Hayes Valley, a few times for happy hour before I made it there for brunch recently. With French wines and a Parisian cafe feel…it’s not too hard to please me in that setting (if I’m being honest.)

Revelry made the list because I finally sampled some of their really unique dishes, which walk the fine line of being both classic and creative at the same time. An example is their brussel sprouts Caesar salad, which includes smoked trout on a bed of shredded fresh brussel sprouts with sourdough croutons. Fantastique!

I love coming here for a late brunch or a leisurely afternoon lunch. Soak in the sunshine and the Francophile vibes, and treat yourself to a glass of champagne (the real deal) while you relax.

Menu Highlights: Loved the brussel sprouts Caesar as well as the duck confit salad. They do great cheese and charcuterie plates, and the roasted bone marrow is a great appetizer as well.

Update: As of now, Revelry Bistro is temporarily closed. Keep checking their website for updates.

Lou’s Cafe

Sandwich Shop // Inner Richmond
5017 Geary Boulevard

Last month I brought you Art’s, and this month I bring you Lou’s.

Lou’s Cafe is nothing special from the outside. It couldn’t look more generic. By now we know that does not mean the food is.

Serving up some of the city’s most delicious sandwiches (breakfast included!) you’ll have your choice of combo. With house specialties such as the “Ami-cado” and the RB Mushroom (roast beef with bacon and mushrooms,) the only real rule is…make sure you get both the Lou’s Special Sauce and Jalapeno sauce — they’re what makes an ordinary fresh sandwich exceptional. And never, ever get any other bread than Dutch Crunch or you’re doing it wrong.

Menu Highlights: Anything on Dutch Crunch. The breakfast sandwich (with hashbrowns and special sauce) was especially delicious.

Note: I have only tried the Inner Richmond location, but there is also a Financial District spot on Pine and a Sunset one on Taraval.

Uji Time

Japanese Dessert // Japantown
22 Peace Plaza Ste 440 (inside Japan Center)

It’s not often I’ll highlight a dessert place, as I’m not really a dessert person (give me a savory bowl of French fries or a cheese plate any day.) Japanese desserts, however, are a whole different story.

If you’re with me there, and terms like “matcha” and “red bean” get your sweet tooth going…don’t miss this Japantown gem that took me right back to my trip to Japan.

You choose a soft serve flavor ranging from sesame to tofu (it’s really good!) and choose your serving style (I prefer the taiyaki, which is a pancake-type dough in the shape of a fish.) Then toppings like Pocky sticks (my favorite) are added last! You can also get mochi and a few other Japanese treats here as well, but the ice cream is the highlight.

Note: There is now also one open in the Metreon in SoMa!

Menu Highlights:

Everything is good, but I like the matcha soft serve taiyaki with Pocky and matcha on top best! Try their seasonal flavors as well.

Capannina

Italian Cuisine // Cow Hollow
1809 Union Street

This place has been on my list to try since before I even met my boyfriend — who pointed it out as his favorite little spot in my neighborhood when we first met.

Well, we finally got around to going in the final week before I moved (update: I’m now in Nob Hill )

With a family-run feel and tons of local regulars, this spot seems plucked right out of Italy — from the menu down to the servers (with their thick Italian accents — delightful.) It’s easy to miss on Union Street, but you should absolutely look for it if you’re searching for a great European-esque spot to eat while in Cow Hollow.

Menu Highlights:

Normally I’d go straight for the pasta, and the pappardelle with wild boar ragu was really good (a little sweet for my particular taste, though everyone loves it.) What’s unique about Capannina for me is that the secondi, or seconds which are typically meat dishes, are the highlight. I normally skip those altogether in Italian spots, but the brick-pressed chicken and the branzino were both some of the best dishes I’ve had anywhere.

Note: the early bird special from 5-6pm is SUCH a steal at $25. You get your choice from three courses, including the Caesar salad (fantastic) and the aforementioned chicken — plus dessert! (Try the profiteroles!)

Bonus:

Wrecking Ball Coffee Roasters

I’d been taking meetings here nearly every day (it seemed) as this coffee spot was so close to my (old) apartment. Perhaps it’s because it’s one of my favorite places to grab a coffee in the city, and perhaps it’s because I knew I was about to move (and will no longer be close by,) but I became somewhat of a regular here. I almost always get their cortado or matcha latte. Both are some of the best in SF (and the decor here is, too!)

You can read more of my picks for best places for SF coffee. (Please note Wrecking Ball is not a good place to bring a laptop and work – no wifi!)

It’s hard to believe I’m approaching one year of writing this series! I’m going to switch it up a bit starting next month — you’ll still get a monthly post from me, but I’m going to begin doing themed posts such as ‘Best Cheap Eats in SF’ and ‘Best Pho.’ Send your theme requests my way.

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