:pastry studio

Cherry Crumb Bars

noreply@blogger.com (pastry studio) — Fri, 14 Jun 2013 14:46:00 +0000

It’s impossible to even imagine late spring or early summer without cherries. As soon as they start appearing piled high at the market or roadside stand, they call for immediate devouring. And every now and then, we glance at the pile of pits and stems in amazement that we were able to consume so many so quickly. But our red-stained fingertips are a sure clue.

I’m a big fan of bar cookies with fruit filling, which are really in many ways more like luscious little bites of a fruit tart. There’s a bottom crust, a gooey fruit layer and then some sort of crumble mixture on top. There’s no rolling of crust or scooping of cookie dough or much of any fuss or muss, so they’re relatively easy to prepare. And they are invariably chewy and delicious morsels.

These Cherry Crumb Bars are chubby little things. There’s a thick layer of bottom crust because I like the texture contrast with the fruit in the same way that I love pie crust. The cherries this season are very sweet and juicy and beautiful, so I really wanted to test them in this format. And if you’ve ever had a piece of New York style Crumb Cake, you know how crazy delicious lots of buttery baked crumbs can be on top of anything.

If you love cherry pies or cherry shortcakes, you will probably love these bars. They’re full of fruit and flavor. The aromatic spice in the cherries and the salt in the dough and crumb topping pique our taste buds and remind us once again of all the goodness of June and July. Cherries!!

Bench notes:

- I happen to really like cherries with cinnamon and star anise but leave them out if you wish or subtitute your own favorite flavoring.

- The bars will be easier to cut once they are completely cool and the filling has a chance to firm up. I use a serrated knife.

- I left the pitted cherries whole but chop them just a bit if you’d like the bars to slice more neatly.

Cherry Crumb Bars
Makes 9 bar cookies

Cherries

1 1/2 lbs cherries, pitted

1/4 cup (1 3/4 oz) granulated sugar

3 tablespoons cold water

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 star anise

2 teaspoons lemon juice

1 teaspoon vanilla

Crumb Topping

1 1/4 cups (6 1/4 oz) flour

1/4 cup (1 3/4 oz) granulated sugar

1/4 cup (1 3/4 oz) brown sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

4 oz (8 tablespoons) butter, melted

Cookie Base

1 1/2 cups (7 1/2 oz) flour

1/4 cup (1 3/4 oz) granulated sugar

1/4 cup (1 3/4 oz) dark brown sugar, packed

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

zest of 1 lemon

4 oz (8 tablespoons) cold unsalted butter

1 large egg yolk

2 tablespoons (1 oz) milk

3/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 350ºF. Lightly grease an 8” square pan and line with a piece of parchment paper large enough to form an overhang along two sides of the pan.

Place the pitted cherries and sugar in a saucepan. Combine the cold water and cornstarch and add to the cherries. Add cinnamon and star anise and simmer on low heat, stirring occasionally, until the juices thicken, about 10 minutes. Take off the heat, remove star anise and add lemon juice and vanilla. Set aside to cool.

For the crumb topping, combine the flour, both sugars and salt in a bowl. Melt the butter and add. Use a fork to stir until the mixture clumps and holds together when pressed. Using your fingers, pinch the mixture to form bits and pieces. Chill until ready to use.

For the bottom crust, combine the flour, both sugars, baking powder, salt and lemon zest in the bowl of a food processor. Process until ingredients are combined. Cut the cold butter into 1/2” pieces and add to the dry ingredients. Process until it looks like coarse meal. Combine the egg yolk, milk and vanilla and add. Process just until the mixture starts to clump and holds together when pinched. Press the dough clumps into the prepared pan to form an even bottom layer.

Bake until puffed up and the surface looks dry and slightly browned, about 15 minutes. Pour the simmered cherries on top and spread to within a 1/4” of the edges. Top with the crumb mixture, making sure to distribute to the edges and the corners to form a border.

Bake until the fruit is bubbling vigorously and the crumb topping is lightly browned, about 25 minutes. Place the pan on a wire rack to cool completely. Run a thin knife around the edges and gently lift out of the pan using the parchment overhang to assist. Cut into bars.

Apricot Almond Upside Down Cake

noreply@blogger.com (pastry studio) — Fri, 07 Jun 2013 15:46:00 +0000

So now we’ve come around once again to my favorite part of the fresh fruit season. Apricots and cherries have arrived and there’s the scent of peaches sure to follow. And sometime soon we may be able to enjoy the heavenly vision of figs! We are in the zone.

Apricots are looking very good right now. My first purchase was for the pure pleasure of eating them plain and simple. Wow, are they deliciously tart and sweet. My second batch made it into this very simple upside down cake. And, of course, there will be a third and a fourth batch, etc., etc.

Rather than the usual brown sugar and butter coating (which, by the way, is very delicious), I decided to float the apricot halves with their best buddies, honey scented with vanilla and cinnamon. The cake is also enhanced with toasted almonds to give it only a very slight hint of texture and the flavor that goes so well with so many of the stone fruits of the season. This would be a good dessert with a dollop of almond flavored whipped cream or served simply as a brunch cake on a sleepy weekend morning.

Apricots are notorious for keeping their beautiful visit short and sweet. Get yourselves to the market and behold the best that nature has to offer!

Bench notes:

- I like to use sliced almonds rather than whole ones for this kind of cake because they grind with the flour to a finer crumb.

- Toast the sliced almonds in a single layer in a 350 degree oven for about 6 - 8 minutes. Watch them closely as they will burn very, very quickly.

- I use 3 tablespoons of honey for the topping as the cake bakes. After the cake is baked and has been turned out of the pan, I use another 2 tablespoons of honey to glaze the top of the cake. If I used all 5 tablespoons for the bottom of the pan, the cake would be pretty soggy. Apricots become even more tart once baked so the cake does need the extra 2 tablespoons of honey glaze.

- Lining the bottom of the cake pan with parchment helps ensure your cake will turn out with the topping in tact.

- If you’re an apricot fan, try Cornmeal Cake with Apricots or Olive Oil Sponge Cake with Apricots.

Apricot Almond Upside Down Cake

Serves 8

3 tablespoons (1 1/2 oz) honey

1/2 oz (1 tablespoon) butter

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

6 – 8 apricots

2 – 3 tablespoons toasted sliced almonds

1 cup (5 oz) flour

1/2 cup (1 1/2 oz) toasted sliced almonds

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

4 oz (8 tablespoons) butter @ room temperature

3/4 cup (5 1/4 oz) sugar

2 large eggs @ room temperature

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/4 teaspoon almond extract

1/2 cup (4 oz) milk @ room temperature

2 tablespoons (1 oz) honey, for glazing

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease a 9” x 2 1/2” cake pan and line the bottom with a circle of parchment.

For the cake topping, place the 3 tablespoons of honey, butter and cinnamon in a saucepan and heat until melted, whisking to combine. Take off the heat and add 1/2 teaspoon vanilla. Pour into the bottom of the cake pan, then lift the pan and swirl to distribute evenly.

Slice the apricots in half and place cut side down on top of the honey butter mixture. Fill in the gaps with a sprinkle of toasted sliced almonds.

For the cake batter, place the flour, 1/2 cup toasted sliced almonds, baking powder and salt in the bowl of a food processor. Process until the almonds are finely ground. Pour into a bowl and set aside.

Cream butter and sugar until light and fluffy, about 4 minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Add vanilla and almond extracts and blend. Beat in eggs one at a time, scraping down the bowl and mixing thoroughly after each addition.

Add a third of the flour mixture alternately with half the milk, beginning and ending with the flour. Spread the batter evenly over apricots.

Bake until a toothpick tests clean, about 42 – 45 minutes. Place on a wire rack to cool for 15 minutes. Run a thin knife around the edge of the pan to loosen the cake. Invert the cake carefully and remove the parchment.

Warm 2 tablespoons honey and brush on the surface of the cake to glaze and sweeten. Cool completely.

Mocha Sherbet

noreply@blogger.com (pastry studio) — Fri, 31 May 2013 15:20:00 +0000

In my neighborhood, you can’t walk more than a couple of blocks without finding a few bustling cafés. A good cup of coffee is the morning and afternoon obsession for most people and this dessert is designed to fire all the same neurons. If you love coffee and you love chocolate, Mocha Sherbet is the best of both worlds.

As we all know, David Lebovitz is among the most talented of all ice cream recipe developers. His recipes are superb and this one is no exception. The jolt of coffee is matched with a depth charge of fudgy cocoa richness. And although it has a measure of milk to keep it from being too icy, it’s still fairly slushy, in a good way. It has a sort of fudgesicle vibe, which makes it perfect for a spring or summer cooling down treat.

The preparation couldn’t be any easier. Mix all but the milk in a saucepan, boil for 30 seconds, add the milk and there you have it. Chill the mixture thoroughly and then let your ice cream machine do all the work. It’s light and simple but so satisfying and so easy to make, I’m sure you’ll find a way to put it into your regular dessert rotation to serve to all your coffee aficionados.

It’s fabulous all by itself but here I serve it with a dollop of whipped cream and a sprinkling of spiced and toasted almonds, a super luxe combination. I like the introduction of cinnamon to the mix and the crunchy almonds are perfect for the slushy chocolate. If you start mixing now, you can have this delicious sherbet by the time the afternoon crowd is rushing toward your local café.

Bench notes:

- For maximum flavor, I recommend making the coffee very strong. Use your very favorite coffee beans. I went with a dark Peet’s French Roast.

- David gets 50 grams out of 6 tablespoons of cocoa powder. My scaled cocoa comes to 31 grams. I do fluff it up before measuring. But cocoa is notoriously hard to scale consistently, so go with what you prefer.

- Bring the mixture to a full boil to cook out the chalkiness of the cocoa powder.

- When you’ve churned the sherbet, it’s going to be pretty slushy but will firm up after a couple of hours in your freezer.

- Always try to pack ice cream or sorbet tightly in an airtight container and press a piece of plastic into the surface to avoid air pockets where ice crystals will form.

- David also suggests a recipe for Mocha Freeze: for each serving put 2 scoops (4 oz) of Mocha Sherbet in a blender with 1/2 cup (4 oz) very strong coffee or espresso, 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar and 3 ice cubes. Blend until almost smooth. Pour into a glass and top with whipped cream. Yikes.

Mocha Sherbet

adapted from The Perfect Scoop by David Lebovitz

Makes about 1 quart

2 1/4 cups (18 oz; 560 ml) strongly brewed coffee

3/4 cup (5 1/4 oz; 149 g) sugar

6 tablespoons (50 g) Dutch-process cocoa powder

pinch of salt

3/4 cup (6 oz; 180 ml) whole milk

Spiced Almonds

1 cup (3 oz) sliced almonds

2 tablespoons egg white

1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon ground ginger

1/8 teaspoon cloves

pinch salt

1 1/2 tablespoons (20 g) sugar

whipped cream, for garnish

For the sherbet, whisk together the coffee, sugar, cocoa powder and salt in a saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil. Boil for 30 seconds, whisking constantly. Remove from the heat and stir in the milk. Taste and adjust for salt. Pour into a container and cool. Cover and chill thoroughly.

Freeze in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer's instructions. Pour into an airtight container, press a piece of plastic wrap into the surface, cover and place in your freezer to firm up.

For the spiced almonds, preheat oven to 300 degrees. Prepare a baking sheet with parchment or a silpat.

Whisk the egg white until it’s frothy and opaque. Add spices and salt and whisk to combine. Toss in the sliced almonds and coat evenly. Sprinkle with sugar and toss to thoroughly coat the nuts. Spread them on the baking sheet in a single layer. Give them another light dusting of sugar. Toast for about 20 – 25 minutes or until they are dry and golden.

Serve a couple scoops of sherbet with a dollop of sweetened whipped cream and a sprinkle of almonds.

Ricotta Cream Cake

noreply@blogger.com (pastry studio) — Fri, 24 May 2013 18:14:00 +0000

At first glance, this cake seems innocent enough. Nothing about it screams for attention. But its plain appearance is somewhat deceptive. The sleek minimalism doesn’t quite convey the quiet deliciousness that unfolds with each bite.

It all starts with a plain yogurt cake. But this canvas of simplicity gets punched up with a light touch of Kahlua simple syrup to make it a little more interesting. Then comes the filling and topping. If you don’t care for buttercream or are interested in a momentary diversion from chocolate, this cream is one to try. It’s a lovely combination of sweetened ricotta cheese, cream cheese and whipped cream punctuated with a little spot of rum and vanilla. It’s creamy and flavorful without being overly heavy or too sweet.

Perfect for an initmate celebration, this cake has a sort of Italian flair that is rustic and luscious. And if you’d like to liven up the platter, you can dress it up with some fresh cherries or berries for extra bling.

Bench notes:

- Fresh ricotta in this is fabulous. It doesn't take long to make and it's super delicious.

- If you use commercial ricotta, strain out any excess liquid, if necessary. One of my favorite brands is Bellwether Farms. They also make great creme fraiche.

- Start with softened cream cheese and beat it together with the ricotta just until it combines. Mixing it for too long will cause it to become thin and runny.

- The filling for this cake is from a recipe called Baby Shower Cake in Cocolat by Alice Medrich.

Ricotta Cream Cake

Serves 6 - 8

1 1/2 cups (7 1/2 oz; 213 g) flour

2 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup + 2 tablespoons (3 oz; 85 g) canola oil

3/4 cup (5 1/4 oz; 149 g) sugar

1 large egg

1 large egg yolk

3/4 cup (6 oz) plain yogurt @ room temperature

1 teaspoon vanilla

Kahlua Simple Syrup

2 tablespoons (1 oz) water

2 tablespoons (26 g) sugar

2 tablespoons (1 oz) Kahlua

Ricotta Filling

adapted from Cocolat by Alice Medrich

1/2 cup (4 oz; 113g) ricotta

3 oz (85 g) cream cheese @ room temperature

1 cup (8 oz) heavy cream

1/2 cup (2 oz; 57 g ) powdered sugar

1 1/2 tablespoons rum

3/4 teaspoon vanilla

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 9” x 9" x 2” square pan and line the bottom with parchment, leaving an overhang on two sides.

Sift the flour, baking powder and salt and set aside.

In a separate bowl, whisk together the oil, sugar, egg and egg yolk and blend thoroughly. Add the yogurt and vanilla. Mix in the dry ingredients just until there are no streaks of flour. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and tap the bottom of the pan on a work surface a few times to release the air bubbles.

Bake the cake until it's a light golden brown and springs back when touched or a tester comes out clean, about 25 minutes. Place on a wire rack to cool.

For the syrup, heat the water and sugar until dissolved. Add the Kahlua and set aside.

Strain the ricotta and beat together with the room temperature cream cheese just until combined. Slowly add the heavy cream. Then add the powdered sugar, rum and vanilla and beat until thickened and airy like whipped cream.

Lift the cake out of the pan and remove the parchment paper. Using a serrated knife, trim all four edges of the cake, preserving its square shape. Cut the cake in half and, using a pastry brush, imbibe each half with the Kahlua syrup. Spread half the ricotta cream over one of the layers. Invert the second layer on top and slather the remaining ricotta cream over the top surface.

Whole Wheat Honey Oatmeal Rolls

noreply@blogger.com (pastry studio) — Fri, 17 May 2013 16:26:00 +0000

It’s a weekend morning and the coffee is brewing. You’ve got plenty of reading material and there’s a relaxing quiet that surrounds the morning sunlight. There’s also an incredibly intoxicating aroma wafting from the oven. It’s freshly baked rolls and it’s enough to bring anyone out of their slumber to join you at the table.

For something different and a bit more on the wholesome end of the spectrum for your brunch table, consider these rolls fresh from the oven. They have a good ratio of whole wheat flour, some oatmeal and they’re just slightly sweetened with honey and a touch of molasses. Serve them with butter and honey or your favorite jam or fruit compote to add another element of bliss to your weekend.

On another note, I’m going to include metric weights in my recipes going forward for those who use scales and for my overseas readers. I hope you find this useful.

Bench notes:

- I use old-fashioned oats rather than “quick” oats in this recipe.

- Ideal rise temperature for yeast dough is between 80° F - 90° F.

- This dough doesn’t exactly double in size during the first rise, so use the finger test to determine if it’s ready for the next process. Just press your index finger about 1 1/2 " into the dough. If the indentation stays, the dough has completed the first rise.

- After the first rise, the dough is “punched down” to release the carbon dioxide and even out the temperature. But rather than punching, gently press the air out with your fingers.

- To form a roll, take the portion of dough and tuck the ends under the smooth side. Place seam side down in the pan.

- Whole wheat flour contains bran, which inhibits elasticity of the dough, so I like to mix it with a good portion of all-purpose flour to produce a lighter pastry.

Whole Wheat Honey Oatmeal Rolls

Makes 12 rolls

1 pkg (1/4 oz; 7 g) active dry yeast

1/4 cup (2 oz; 57 g) lukewarm water

2 oz (4 tablespoons; 57 g) butter

1 cup (8 oz; 227 g) buttermilk

1/4 cup + 2 tablespoons (3 oz; 85 g) honey

2 tablespoons (1 1/8 oz; 32 g) molasses

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1 large egg @ room temperature

3/4 cup (2 1/4 oz; 66 g) old-fashioned oats

1 1/4 cups (6 1/4 oz; 177 g) whole wheat flour

1 1/2 cups + 3 T (8 1/2 oz; 240 g) all-purpose flour

1 oz (2 tablespoons; 28 g) butter

2 teaspoons (10 g) honey

2 tablespoons (10g) oats

Sprinkle yeast into lukewarm water, whisk and let it sit for 5 minutes.

Melt the butter and whisk in the buttermilk, honey, molasses, salt, cinnamon and the egg. Whisk in the yeast mixture. Using a fork, sitr in the oats. Add the whole wheat flour and stir to combine. Add 1 1/2 cups of all-purpose flour. Keep adding flour 1 tablespoon at a time until the dough is no longer sticky. Place the dough on the work surface and knead until smooth and elastic, about 5 – 8 minutes.

Smooth the dough into a round ball and place it in a bowl lightly greased with oil. Cover with plastic wrap and place in a warm, draft-free area for 1 – 1 1/2 hours. To test if it’s ready, press your finger about 1 1/2" into the dough. If it holds the indentation, it's ready.

Grease a 9” x 3” cake pan. Gently press down the dough and place it on a work surface. Using a bench scraper or a knife, divide the dough into 12 equal pieces. Take each piece and form a ball. Place 9 rolls around the perimeter of the pan and 3 rolls in the center. Set in a warm place to rise for 45 minutes.

When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 350° F.

Melt 1 oz of butter with 2 teaspoons of honey. Brush half of it over the tops of the rolls and sprinkle with 2 tablespoons of oats. Place in the middle rack of the oven and bake until rolls are golden brown, about 25 - 28 minutes. Remove from the pan and brush generously with remaining melted butter and honey mixture. Cool on a rack.

Lemon Mousse Tartlets

noreply@blogger.com (pastry studio) — Fri, 10 May 2013 15:45:00 +0000

If you happen to have the luck of a few extra lemons in your kitchen, I’m here to give you some ideas. One of my favorite things in the whole universe of fabulous desserts is lemon mousse. It’s light and creamy and full of the tart pucker of lemon. In my book, it’s among the best of luxurious indulgences. It’s also pretty easy to prepare.

Instead of serving lemon mousse on its own, I dollop it in a tart shell to introduce some texture. The tart shell has a little taste of almond and the dough is one of those easy mixes done in a food processor and then pressed into the tart pans rather than rolled out.

The lemon mousse for this tart is a simple lemon curd blended with a fairly equal portion of lightly whipped cream. I usually also fold in whipped egg whites for an even lighter, more ethereal mousse when serving on its own. But for this tart, I keep it basic and slightly more substantial.

If you love lemon and the combination of creamy and crumbly, this tart should fill the bill.

Bench notes:

- Acidic ingredients like lemon are likely to pick up a metallic flavor and may also discolor if cooked in what's called "reactive" cookware. Aluminum, cast iron and copper are reactive metals. Stainless steel and glass are nonreactive.

- Lemon curd can be made ahead and refrigerated for up to 2 days. Store it in an airtight container.

- If you prefer a plain tart shell, elminate the sliced almonds and use a total of 1 1/4 cups flour.

- Freezing the formed tart shells for one hour before baking helps to eliminate shrinkage.

- If you’d like to make the lighter version of this mousse on its own, make the lemon curd in the recipe. Then whip just 1/2 cup cream to soft peak. Fold that into the lemon curd and refrigerate. Whip 2 egg whites with 1 tablespoon of sugar to stiff peak. Fold into the lemon curd and cream mixture, spoon into serving dishes and chill. As always, exercise caution when using raw egg whites. They should not be served to small children, pregnant women or individuals who are at risk due to compromised immune systems.

Lemon Mousse Tartlets

Makes five 4” tartlets

Tart Dough

1 C flour

1/4 C (3/4 oz) sliced almonds

3 T sugar

1/4 t salt

zest of 1/2 lemon

4 oz (8 T) cold butter

1 egg yolk

Lemon Mousse

1/2 C lemon juice (about 3 – 4 lemons)

zest of 2 lemons

1/2 C sugar

2 egg yolks

1 egg

3 oz (6 T) butter

1 1/4 C heavy cream

2 T sugar

1/4 t vanilla

pistachios or sliced almonds, finely chopped for garnish

Lightly grease five 4” tartlet pans with removable bottoms.

Place the flour, almond slices, sugar, salt and lemon zest in the bowl of a food processor and process to combine. Cut the cold butter into 1/2” pieces and add. Pulse until some of the butter is the size of oatmeal flakes. Stir the yolk and add. Process for about 10 - 15 seconds until the dough begins to form clumps. It will not be a smooth dough. Press the clumps evenly and smoothly into the bottom and sides of the tart pans. Trim any excess from the top of the border. Freeze the formed tart shells for one hour.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Place the tart shells on a baking sheet. Bake until they are a light golden brown, about 20 minutes. Cool on a wire rack.

For the lemon curd, whisk the lemon juice, zest, sugar and eggs in a non-reactive heatproof bowl. Place the bowl over a pan of low simmering water and cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture begins to thicken, about 3 – 5 minutes. Pour through a strainer into a bowl. Cut the butter into small pieces and add a few at a time, stirring to incorporate. Press a piece of plastic wrap into the surface and set aside to cool. Refrigerate until you're ready to assemble the tartlets.

To prepare the lemon mousse, whip the cream with the sugar and vanilla to soft peak. Fold into the lemon curd and refrigerate. When ready to serve, dollop the lemon mousse into the tart shells and garnish with finely chopped nuts.

Hazelnut & Olive Oil Sticks

noreply@blogger.com (pastry studio) — Fri, 03 May 2013 14:33:00 +0000

How cool is it to discover you have a brand new favorite cookie? I just so happened to see this recipe featured on the ever-industrious Alice Medrich’s blog and right away I knew I had to get to the kitchen and see for myself. And wow, am I glad I did. This is an incredibly delicious cookie, the kind of cookie that I will make again and again because of the perfect combination of flavors found in every bite. It sort of reminds me of a hazelnut sable I used to make at a restaurant only sturdier and made infinitely more interesting and much better with the use of olive oil instead of butter.

The ingredients for this beauty are simple. The cookie is built around the beautiful flavor of hazelnuts and the complexity of good extra virgin olive oil. Add the perfect amount of sugar and the saving grace of salt and you have a very elegant super crunchy cookie. It has a rustic appearance but I wouldn’t hesitate to serve it after a special occasion dinner with a good wine or at a champagne brunch with some fresh fruit of the season, like strawberries, apricots, peaches or figs. I think you and your guests will find a way to make another batch ASAP.

It sounds like Alice is knee deep in more book projects – how does she do it? – and this cookie is a glorious creation she developed in the midst of a moment of procrastination. All I can say is, let’s hear it for the way she works!!

So, to sum up – I love the flavor, I love the texture and I love how dangerously easy it is to make this. My new favorite cookie.

Bench notes:

- Alice calls for raw hazelnuts but I used the toasted ones I had on hand. The nuts should be skinned as much as possible.
- I used the delicious California Olive Ranch Arbequina Extra Virgin Olive Oil in this cookie.

- It’s easy to shape the cookie dough free form but you can press the dough into a loaf pan lined with parchment and plastic wrap if that is easier for you to do.

- I found I needed to double the water, so you may also need to follow her instructions to add more if necessary.

- I chilled the cookie dough overnight. It was very firm and made slicing a breeze.

- I got about 30 cookies because I sliced mine only just slightly thicker. I really like them this way. How long you bake them will depend on how thick you slice them.

- Cookies can be stored in an airtight container for several days.

Hazelnut and Olive Oil Sticks

adapted from Alice Medrich

Makes about three dozen 4” to 5” cookies

2/3 cup (76 grams) raw hazelnuts

1 1/4 cup (160 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour

1/2 cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoons (110 grams) sugar

3/8 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black or white pepper

6 tablespoons (80 grams) extra virgin olive oil

4 teaspoons cold water [I used 2 T + 2 t]

Place the hazelnuts, flour, sugar, salt, and pepper in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until the hazelnuts are finely chopped. Drizzle in the olive oil. Pulse until the mixture looks like coarse crumbs. Add the water and pulse just until the mixture resembles damp crumbs and holds together when pinched. It will not look like a smooth dough. Add extra water if necessary.

Gather the dough on a sheet of plastic wrap and press it very firmly into a rectangle about 4” – 5” x 9” – 10” and 1/2” thick. Square the edges and wrap tightly. Refrigerate for 2 hours or overnight.

Preheat oven to 350F.

Unwrap the chilled dough and place it on a cutting board. Using a long sharp knife, cut the dough crosswise into 3/8” slices and place on cookie sheets about 1” apart.

Bake 15-18 minutes until cookies are golden brown, rotating baking sheets from top to bottom and front to back half way through the baking time for even baking. Place the pans on a wire rack to cool.

Cheesecake Ice Cream with Strawberry Rhubarb Granita

noreply@blogger.com (pastry studio) — Fri, 26 Apr 2013 16:03:00 +0000

I’m pretty obsessed with strawberries these days. When the season shifts and the market is flooded with new fruit, it’s impossible not to get mesmerized. Then I spotted some fresh rhubarb a couple of days ago and boom, I had to jump in.

Even though one of my very favorite things is Strawberry Rhubarb Pie, I had some leftover cream cheese from another project so my senses wandered toward some sort of strawberries and cream thing. Since, along with strawberries, it’s hard to resist a little slice of good cheesecake, I made an ice cream that has some of the same qualities as a good cheesecake. It’s a delicious but plain ice cream with a spot of lemon juice and vanilla to enhance the flavor. Instead of adding strawberries and rhubarb to the ice cream base, I went with a granita to contrast the creamy with an icy tart fruit flavor. I’ve also added some diced and sugared strawberries to bring another element of texture and freshness to the plate. I like the way everything co-mingles without being overly rich.

The ice cream is great on its own but is also the sort you can pair with lots of different fruit and cookies. I’m thinking a fresh blueberry compote or a raspberry coulis would be fabulous or some fresh cherries roasted in balsamic when they roll in sometime in the next few weeks. A parfait of layered ice cream, berries and crushed shortbread, graham crackers or cocoa wafers would also be a playful dessert.

It’s spring - get your strawberry rhubarb on!

Bench notes:

- This is a simple ice cream made in a food processor. The cream cheese and small amount of heavy cream make for a good creamy mouthfeel without the need for egg yolks.

- The amount of sugar in the granita is going to depend on the ripeness of your fruit. You may want to add a bit more once you’ve tasted the puree but too much sugar and the granita won’t freeze.

- Use a shallow container for the granita so it has more surface area and will freeze evenly.

Cheesecake Ice Cream with Strawberry Rhubarb Granita

Cheesecake Ice Cream

Makes about 1 pint

8 oz cream cheese, softened

1 1/2 C milk

1/2 C heavy cream

1/2 C sugar

1 T + 1 t lemon juice, to taste

1/2 t vanilla

pinch salt, to taste

Strawberry Rhubarb Granita

Makes about 1 pint

6 oz (about 3 medium stalks) rhubarb

1/2 C water

1/4 C + 2 T sugar

1/4 vanilla bean (optional)

zest of 1/2 orange

6 oz strawberries, plus more for garnish if desired

1 1/2 t lemon juice

For the ice cream, place all the ingredients in the bowl of a food processor and process until smooth and well blended. Taste and adjust for lemon juice and salt. Pour into an airtight container and chill thoroughly, preferably overnight.

Churn according to your ice cream machine’s directions. Pour into an airtight container, press a piece of plastic wrap into the surface, cover and place in your freezer to firm up.

For the granita, trim and cut the rhubarb into 1/4" pieces. Bring water and sugar to a boil. Lower the heat, add rhubarb, vanilla bean seeds and pod (if using), orange zest and simmer until tender, about 10 minutes. Take off the heat and cool. Remove vanilla bean, if using.

Hull and slice the strawberries. Place them in the bowl of a food processor with the cooled rhubarb. Process until the fruit is pureed. Add lemon juice. Strain though a fine-mesh sieve and discard the solids.

Pour into a shallow airtight container, cover and place in the freezer. After about 2 hours, take the tines of a sturdy fork and scrape the surface of the granita to form slushy icy crystals. Place back in the freezer and repeat again in an hour or so.

For the strawberry garnish, slice or dice strawberries and place in a bowl with a sprinkle of sugar. Toss thoroughly. Serve a scoop of ice cream with a dollop of granita and strawberries.

Chocolate & Balsamic Strawberry Cream Cake

noreply@blogger.com (pastry studio) — Fri, 19 Apr 2013 17:20:00 +0000

Bright red spring strawberries have found their way to our markets just about everywhere. Time to break out the seasonal shortcakes, pies, angel food and the ice cream machine! Rhubarb cannot be far behind.

For a little diversion, I'm going in a different direction here. I've placed fresh strawberries doused with brown sugar and balsamic atop a soft chocolate cake that's been dolloped with clouds of whipped cream. The cake is made with oil for extra moisture and is a simple mix in a bowl. A good measure of cocoa lends richness and depth that stands up to the bracing acidity of the strawberries. It hits all the right dessert notes for flavor, gooey lusciousness and, of course, chocolate.

If you're seeing lots of good strawberries in your neighborhood, it's time to dig in!

Bench notes:
- A note about cake flour: The important difference between cake flour and all-purpose flour is the protein content. When flour protein is hydrated, strands of gluten develop. The protein content of cake flour is about 8%; the protein content of all-purpose flour is about 10% - 12%. So for cakes, lower protein flour means a more tender texture. If you don't have access to cake flour, you can make your own with a ratio of cornstarch to all-purpose flour. When added to all-purpose flour, cornstarch acts to inhibit the formation of gluten. The formula for substituting all-purpose flour for cake flour: 1 cup cake flour = 1 cup bleached all-purpose flour minus 2 tablespoons + 2 tablespoons cornstarch. After measuring, sift the flour to fully distribute the cornstarch before using it in your recipe.
- I used natural (undutched) cocoa powder for the cake. To "bloom" the flavor, I mix it with hot water before adding it to the batter.
- The amount of sugar and balsamic you use for the strawberries will depend on their ripeness.
- Add a dab of sour cream to the whipped cream and substitute brown sugar for a variation that goes well with strawberries.

Chocolate & Balsamic Strawberry Cream Cake
9 servings

1 1/2 C cake flour
3/4 t baking soda
1/2 t salt
1/2 t cinnamon
1/2 C + 1 T cocoa powder
1/2 C + 1 T hot water
3/4 C dark brown sugar
3/4 C granulated sugar
1/4 C + 2 T canola oil
2 eggs @ room temperature
1 1/2 t vanilla
1/4 C + 2 T buttermilk @ room temperature

1 pint fresh ripe strawberries
3 T sugar, to taste
2 T balsamic vinegar, to taste

1 C heavy cream
1 T sugar
1/2 t vanilla

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease a 9" square pan and line with parchment, leaving an overhang on two sides.

Sift the cake flour, baking soda, salt and cinnamon.

Whisk the cocoa and hot water together until thoroughly blended and smooth.

Whisk together both sugars, oil, eggs and vanilla and blend well. Add the cocoa mixture. Stir in the dry ingredients in 3 additions, alternating with the buttermilk and beginning and ending with the dry ingredients. Pour into the prepared pan and gently tap the bottom of the pan on the work surface to remove any air bubbles.

Bake until a toothpick tests with a few moist crumbs adhering, about 28 minutes. Place on a wire rack to cool for 10 minutes. Run a thin bladed knife around the edges and gently lift out the cake. Cool completely.

Hull and slice the strawberries and place in a bowl with the brown sugar and balsamic. Toss to thoroughly coat and set aside to macerate.

Whip the cream with the sugar and vanilla to soft peak. To serve, spread the cream on top of the cake and top with strawberries. Alternatively, plate the slices of cake and garnish with a dollop of cream and a serving of strawberries and juices.

Chocolate Espresso Spice Cookies

noreply@blogger.com (pastry studio) — Fri, 12 Apr 2013 16:15:00 +0000

Chocolate’s rich, dark, earthy flavor is suited to so many partners. It’s terrific with nuts, salt, olive oil, liqueur, brandy or rum and some types of dried and fresh fruit and red wine. Espresso and spice are a couple of my favorite pairings.

Lately, my work seems to be going in the direction of cookies. They’re so much fun and a favorite for most, handy for a small bliss bite when you don’t want to make a serious commitment to a piece of pie or cake or an indulgence in ice cream. And I’ve been focusing on testing recipes that can be put together in no time in the food processor so there’s no excuse to have some fun every now and then. And they can always be stored in your freezer for those times when you want just a taste.

I didn't really grow up eating cookies besides graham crackers and the Sunshine raisin biscuits I had at my grandmother’s house. So I have a lot of experimenting to do. But it’s the kind of study I gladly embrace considering the reward I get as I gladly give away all the results.

Today's cookie is all about cocoa, spices, espresso powder and an extra swipe of melted chocolate. This cookie is crisp and has just enough of a hit of each of its elements. I’d suggest a piping hot cup of coffee to go along.

Bench notes:
- I used natural, not dutched, cocoa powder in this recipe.
- You can re-roll scraps. Just layer them as you go rather than gathering them up into a ball.
- A round flat pizza pan is handy for chilling cookie dough that’s been rolled out.
- Using a vegetable peeler, I shaved about 1 oz chocolate for garnish. They would also taste great with finely chopped nuts or without any garnish at all.

Chocolate Espresso Spice Cookies

Makes 32 cookies

2 C flour

1 1/4 C sugar

1/2 C cocoa powder

1 t baking powder

1 1/4 t instant espresso powder

1/2 t cinnamon

1/4 t allspice

1/8 t cloves

1/4 t salt

8 oz (16 T) cold butter

2 T milk

1 1/2 t vanilla

4 oz chocolate

2 T butter

Place flour, sugar, cocoa, baking powder, espresso powder, spices and salt into the bowl of a food processor and process to combine. Cut the cold butter into 1/2” pieces and add. Pulse until the mixture looks like coarse meal. Combine the milk and vanila and add. Pulse just until the cookie dough starts to clump and holds together when pinched.

Place half the cookie dough on a piece of plastic wrap and gather together into a disc. Place another piece of plastic wrap on top of the dough and roll out to a 10 1/4” circle about 1/8” thick. Slide onto a pan and place in the refrigerator. Repeat with second half of dough. Chill until firm.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line baking pans with parchment or silpats.

Remove plastic wrap from both sides of cookie dough, leaving one piece underneath. Cut out cookies using a 2 1/2” cookie cutter and place 12 per prepared baking pan.

Bake cookies until the edges are firm, about 14 minutes. Cool completely.

Melt butter and chocolate together in a heatproof bowl over a saucepan of barely simmering water, making sure the bottom of the bowl isn’t touching the water. Stir to combine. When cookies are cool, spread a layer of chocolate over half the cookie. Garnish with shaved chocolate. Set aside to dry.

Lemon Cheese Tart

noreply@blogger.com (pastry studio) — Fri, 05 Apr 2013 14:59:00 +0000

Spring has definitely sprung. There are tulips and asparagus everywhere! The evening light is back and the street scenes are transformed. There are the occasional showers that we know will bring us May flowers. Strawberries have arrived but I'm holding off just a bit to see if they get slightly smaller and sweeter.

And then of course there is lemon. This tart is the ultimate in simplicity, the kind of dessert I always associate with spring. It's a very light bite with lemon overtones and will pair nicely with all the fresh fruit of the season (think strawberry rhubarb compote). Or it can be served plain with a nice glass of Beaumes de Venise, Semillon or Monbazillac. It's basic but satisfying when you want just a hint of dessert.

The lemon filling is an equal blend of cream cheese and ricotta and forms a thin layer inside a flaky crust, so you're almost getting a fairly equal bite of both. It's subtle and not too sweet, perfect if you're looking for something to crown a light summer meal in the twilight of evening.

Bench notes:
- The pastry dough comes together almost instantly. Check it as you go to be sure you're not overmixing. It's done when the dough looks a little bit like small curd cottage cheese. When you gather it together to wrap, it smoothes out.
- The pastry dough can be made 1 - 2 days ahead and chilled. Any longer than that and it starts to discolor and turn grey.
- Room temperature cream cheese makes it easier to blend with the other ingredients.
- Whisk the filling just long enough to completely combine without loosening the cheeses too much.
- Be gentle when you're folding over the pastry dough onto the tart to form the border so it doesn't sink into the filling. It's easiest if you fold over all 4 sides first and then fold the tucked corners over the top.
- I bake this for 25 minutes at 375 degrees to set the cheese filling and then raise the temperature to 400 degrees for 10 minutes to brown the crust. But each oven is its own beast, so check it at 25 minutes to see if your crust is browning properly. If so, just leave the oven at 375.
- If you don't have a 9" square tart pan with a removable bottom, use a 9" square metal baking pan and line it with a parchment overhang so you can easily lift it out.
- Store leftovers in the refrigerator. I was kind of surprised to find that it's also good cold!

Lemon Cheese Tart
Serves 6 - 8

Pastry Dough
1 C flour
2 t sugar
1/8 t salt
3 oz cold butter
1/4 C cold water

Lemon Cheese Filling
5 oz cream cheese @ room temperature
5 oz ricotta
1/4 C + 2 T sugar
1 1/2 t lemon juice
zest of 1 lemon
pinch salt
1 egg

1/2 T butter, melted
sugar for sprinkling

To prepare the pastry dough, place the flour, sugar and salt into the bowl of a food processor and blend. Cut the cold butter into 1/2" pieces and add to the flour mixture. Pulse until the butter is the size of small peas, about 5 seconds. Add the cold water and pulse until the dough starts to clump, about 10 seconds. The dough will look a bit like small curd cottage cheese. Gather the dough and place on a sheet of plastic wrap. Form a disc and wrap tightly. Chill thoroughly.

For the filling, whisk together the cream cheese, ricotta, sugar, lemon juice and lemon zest. Add a pinch of salt, to taste. Whisk in the egg. Chill the filling while you roll out the pastry dough.

Unwrap the dough and let it rest on a lightly floured piece of parchment or work surface for just a few minutes. It needs to stay cool but warm up just enough to handle without a lot of resistance and cracking.

Roll the dough out to about an 11" square and 1/8" thickness, gently lifting and moving the dough after each roll and keeping it lightly floured as needed. When you have the desired size, trim the edges and brush off any excess flour. Fold it in half and then again in half. Center the folded corner of the dough in a 9" square tart pan or baking pan. Unfold it and work it into the corners, leaving an overhang on all four sides. Pour the filling into the tart and spread it evenly. Gently fold the pastry overhang onto the surface of the tart.

Chill the tart while you preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Brush the border of the dough with melted butter and dust with a light sprinkle of sugar. Bake for 25 minutes and then increase oven temperature to 400 degrees. Bake an additional 10 minutes until the dough is crisp and browned. Place on a wire rack to cool completely.

Lemon Olive Oil Cake

noreply@blogger.com (pastry studio) — Fri, 29 Mar 2013 14:53:00 +0000

I like to have a few simple cakes in my repertoire to serve with all the great fruit of the spring and summer months. They make perfect partners when you want the ripe freshness of the fruit to be the star. I also love the use of olive oil in pastry and this cake really demonstrates why. It adds an assertive flavor and moisture that is unmistakable in plain cakes and complements the fruit in a way that adds another interesting dimension to dessert. I serve it here with fresh sugared plums and the bright tart acidity is a great pairing.

Since there's no leavening in this cake, it's important to beat the egg yolks and sugar to ribbon stage. The egg whites are also beaten to soft peak and folded into the batter to lighten it and give it more volume. As a result, the cake souffles a bit as it bakes and then deflates slightly as it cools, giving it its buckled and crackled surface.

The cake has a density a bit like a pound cake but is airy like a sponge cake and light as angel food. I like the full-bodied richness of extra virgin olive oil but you can use regular olive oil if you want a subtler flavor. The cake would go well with just about any spring and summer fruit served plain or poached in wine. A dollop of whipped cream, lightly flavored with vanilla or kirsch, is also a very welcome garnish.

Bench notes:
- The cake rises considerably so you need a springform pan with sides that are at least 2 1/2" high.
- I used wonderfully fruity California Olive Ranch Arbequina olive oil.
- The recipe calls for cake flour but I also tested it with all-purpose and it's delicious.
- Fat is the enemy of egg whites, so be sure you've thoroughly cleaned your whisk after beating the egg yolks before you start beating the egg whites. If there's any fat present, the egg whites will refuse to whip!
- To beat the egg whites to soft peak, start with the egg whites and the salt and whisk them on medium speed. When they've reached a thick and opaque foamy stage and doubled in volume, slowly add the sugar. They will stay at a soupy stage for a couple of minutes but then start to incorporate more air. Keep beating until they are cloud-like and about tripled in volume. When you lift the whisk, they should stand up in a soft peak with a slight lilt. They won't be as shiny or stiff as a regular meringue because there is less sugar.
- The recipe calls for 1 1/2 tablespoons of lemon juice and 1 1/2 teaspoons of lemon zest, which is approximately 1 lemon, but I think it needs more lemon zest. I used the zest of 1 1/2 lemons.
- Don't skip sprinkling the sugar on top. This is not a very sweet cake and it needs that extra 1 1/2 tablespoons of sugar.
- The recipe calls for baking the cake for about 45 minutes but mine was done in 30 minutes. So check the cake when the aroma is pronounced and test for doneness.
- The cake can be made a day ahead and stored in an airtight container at room temperature.

- I sliced 4 plums into thin wedges, sprinkled them with about 1 1/2 tablespoons of sugar and then set them aside for 15 minutes to macerate. I also added a couple of drops of good quality kirsch.

- For whipped cream, I usually use about 2 - 3 teaspoons of sugar per cup and about 1/4 teaspoon of vanilla extract. Or as a nice alternative for summer fruit, add just a couple drops of good kirsch.

- I've started a Tools board on Pinterest for quick sourcing of basic tools and techniques for pastry making. You'll notice that I prefer uncoated pans and baking sheets. I think they're the best for even baking and consistent results.

Lemon Olive Oil Cake
adapted from Gourmet
Makes 8 servings

5 egg yolks
1/2 C sugar
3/4 C extra virgin olive oil
1 1/2 T lemon juice
zest of 1 large lemon [I used the zest of 1 1/2 lemons]
1 C cake flour [I used all-purpose]

4 egg whites
1/2 t salt
1/4 C sugar

1 1/2 T sugar, for garnish

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease a 9" x 2 1/2" springform pan and line the bottom with parchment.

Beat the yolks and 1/2 cup of sugar until thick and pale. When lifted from the whisk, the batter should cascade in ribbons onto the surface and hold for a couple of seconds. Reduce to medium speed and drizzle in the olive oil. Combine thoroughly and then add the lemon juice and zest. The mixture may look a bit broken. Take the bowl off the mixer, sift half the flour onto the batter and fold it in gently but thoroughly. Sift in remaining flour and fold until combined, making sure to scrape the bottom and sides of the bowl.

Beat the egg whites with salt until they are foamy and expanded in volume. Slowly add the sugar a little at a time and continue beating until they hold a soft peak. Fold a third of the whites into the yolk mixture to lighten the batter, then fold in remaining whites.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan and gently rap the bottom on the work surface once or twice to release large air bubbles. Sprinkle the top with the remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar.

Bake until the cake is puffed and golden and a tester inserted in the center comes out clean, about 30 - 40 minutes. Place on a wire rack to cool. Run a thin-bladed knife or metal spatula about the edge of the cake to release any areas that might be sticking to the pan. Cool 10 minutes and release the metal ring of the springform pan. Cool completely. Gently invert the cake and remove the parchment. Invert again onto a serving plate.

Chocolate Orange Cardamom Pull-Apart

noreply@blogger.com (pastry studio) — Fri, 22 Mar 2013 16:02:00 +0000

This yeasted pastry is very reminiscent of old-fashioned fantail biscuits. It's a wonderfully soft yeast dough that is layered with a loose paste of butter, cocoa and Grand Marnier and sprinkled with cardamom sugar. Instead of forming individual biscuits, the dough is cut and stacked and placed upright in a loaf pan. The components are very simple and it's an appealing presentation that definitely does beg to be pulled apart.

As the loaf bakes, the layers expand beautifully, displaying a bit like the pages of a well-worn book. I love the crusty sweet exterior of the loaf and the tender delicious interior. It's not overly rich or sweet but just right. If you like working with yeast, this definitely ranks as an easy alternative to cinnamon rolls. And as we head into brunch season, it would be the perfect thing for your guests to tear into and enjoy along with a steaming hot cup of good coffee.

Bench notes:
- The water to proof the yeast should be warm, not hot, to the touch. Technically, if you have a thermometer, the temperature of the liquids for yeast should be 110 - 115 degrees F. This is just above body temperature. If adding liquid to yeast that has been mixed with dry ingredients, the temperature has to be higher, about 120 - 130 degrees F.
- Salt is important in yeast dough because it slows the rising time and allows the full flavor of the dough to develop. It also strengthens the gluten and builds the structure of the bread by keeping the carbon dioxide bubbles from expanding too quickly. Sugar not only adds flavor, it's also a browning agent.
- As you line the loaf pan, the pieces may slouch and the sugar may shift a bit. That's all OK. Each loaf has its own character!
- There are other ways to prepare the layers. You can also spread and sprinkle the filling as you stack the long layers but I think that makes it a bit harder to distribute the filling evenly.
- Remove the baked loaf from the pan after a few minutes to prevent the bread from getting soggy.
- No need to cut the portions; just dig in and pull apart the layers!

Chocolate Orange Cardamom Pull-Apart
Makes 1 loaf

For the dough
1/4 C warm water
1 package (2 1/4 t) active dry yeast
tiny pinch sugar

1/3 C warm milk
2 oz (4 T) butter
1/4 C sugar
1/2 t salt
1 t vanilla
2 eggs
2 3/4 C - 3 C flour

Filling
2 oz (4 T) butter
1/4 C cocoa powder
2 t Grand Marnier

1/2 C sugar
3/4 t cardamom
1/4 t cinnamon

For the yeast dough, place warm water into a large wide bowl and sprinkle the yeast over it along with a tiny pinch of sugar. Whisk to combine and set aside for 5 minutes.

Heat the milk and butter together just until the butter melts. Take off the heat and add the sugar, salt and vanilla. Add to the yeast mixture and whisk in the eggs. Switch to a fork and stir in 2 3/4 cups of flour. If necessary, keep adding flour 1 tablespoon at a time until the dough is no longer sticky.

Place the dough on a work surface and knead until soft and elastic. Grease a large wide bowl with oil and transfer the dough to the bowl. Turn the dough over to coat all sides. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and set aside in a warm place to rise for 1 hour until about doubled in size.

Lightly grease an 8 1/2" x 4 1/2" loaf pan and line with a piece of parchment large enough to form an overhang on both sides along the length of the pan.

For the filling, melt the butter over medium low heat. Whisk in the cocoa. Cook, whisking constantly, for just another minute to let the flavor and aroma of the cocoa bloom. Take off the heat and add the Grand Marnier. Set aside to cool. In a separate bowl, combine the sugar, cardamom and cinnamon. Set aside.

Gently deflate the dough. Place on a work surface with a very light dusting of flour. Roll the dough out to a 20" x 12" rectangle. Using a pastry brush or a small offset spatula, spread the cocoa paste over the entire surface of the dough. Sprinkle with all but about 2 teaspoons of the sugar and spice mixture.

Cut the dough lengthwise into five 12" x 4" strips. Gently lift and stack them on top of each other. Don't worry about making the stacks look too neat; they needn't be perfect. Cut the stack into four equal pieces.

Line the prepared loaf pan with the stacked pieces, placing them upright in a row. Adjust them so they are evenly placed across the length of the pan. It will seem like there aren't enough but the dough will rise and expand during the second rise and the baking process. Sprinkle the top of the loaf with the remaining sugar and set the loaf aside in a warm place to rise for another 45 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Bake until the top of the loaf is golden brown, about 25 minutes. Set on a wire rack to cool for 5 minutes. Lift the yeast bread out of the pan using the paper overhang to assist. Remove the parchment and cool completely.

Chocolate Stout Cake

noreply@blogger.com (pastry studio) — Fri, 15 Mar 2013 13:20:00 +0000

I really enjoy Suzanne Goin's approach to food. Her dishes are simple, rustic and satisfying. She runs four acclaimed restaurants in Los Angeles. At Tavern, there's an in-house bakery called Larder with lots of gorgeous stuff. Her cookbook, Sunday Suppers at Lucques, won an award from the James Beard Foundation and the pastry recipes I've tried have all been delicious. And since we're heading into Guinness and chocolate territory over the next several days, I thought I'd try her Chocolate Stout Cake.

The interesting thing about this cake is that the chocolate really takes a back seat to the bold flavor of molasses and the addition of lots of spice. There are equal parts of ground cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg, so there's no mistaking the fact that this cake has a gingerbread feel. The Guinness bridges all these strong elements and rounds out the flavor beautifully. The cake is made with oil so it's quick to mix and super moist. I like it simply served with a dollop of whipped cream. It would also be terrific with vanilla or caramel ice cream, of course!

Bench notes:
- I haven't tried this with any other brand of beer so I recommend you go with Guinness.
- I halved the recipe to bake in an 8" cake pan. If you'd like to double the recipe and bake in a bundt pan as Suzanne does, use 3 whole eggs.
- Note that the baking soda is added to the molasses and beer rather than sifted with the dry ingredients.
- Use natural cocoa powder rather than dutched.
- The recipe doesn't include salt but I added a 1/4 teaspoon to the dry ingredients
- Store cake in an airtight container.

Chocolate Stout Cake
adapted from Sunday Suppers at Lucques by Suzanne Goin
Serves 8

1 C flour
1/4 C + 2 T cocoa powder
3/4 t baking powder
1/4 t cloves
1/4 t cinnamon
1/4 t freshly grated nutmeg
[I added 1/4 t salt]
1/2 C Guinness stout
1/2 C molasses
3/4 t baking soda
1 egg
1 egg yolk
1/4 C dark brown sugar, packed
1/4 C granulated sugar
1/2 C canola oil

powdered sugar for dusting

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease an 8" x 2" round cake pan and line the bottom with parchment.

Sift together the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg [and salt, if using].

Place the beer and molasses in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and whisk in the baking soda. The mixture will rise and foam.

In another bowl, whisk the egg, egg yolk and both sugars until thoroughly combined. Whisk in the oil and then add the beer mixture. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients. Pour the liquid ingredients into the well. Whisk slowly just until the ingredients are incorporated.

Pour the batter in the prepared pan and bake until a tester comes out mostly clean when inserted in the middle, about 28 - 30 minutes. Cool the cake on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Invert the cake and remove the parchment. Invert the cake again and cool completely. Dust with powdered sugar and serve.

Orange Spice Sherbet

noreply@blogger.com (pastry studio) — Fri, 08 Mar 2013 15:56:00 +0000

Each year as the seasons go by, I'm always taken aback at how swiftly and effortlessly fresh fruit and vegetables flow into the market. There's something uniquely joyful and renewing about seeing the arrival of different items in our produce department even though the calendar tells us to expect them. As spring is fast approaching, I'm once again really excited to greet the grand parade of color and supreme enjoyment of berries, cherries, apricots, peaches, nectarines and figs. Ah, primavera.

However, there are some gorgeous oranges available right now, so it only makes sense to take another moment to focus on the luscious fresh quality of citrus. And since I love sherbet, I decided to keep it simple and make this orange version. I was hoping to feature blood oranges but they seem to have eluded me this week. If you can find them at your local market, do pick some up and enjoy them while they last. They are such a very special treat. Their super refreshing acidity and bright red color are stunning.

Here I use ordinary navel oranges, which are always a welcome addition to any pastry kitchen. I've added a pinch of spice to the sherbet to keep things slightly more interesting. I like this subtle blend of cardamom, cinnamon and allspice but if you don't care for those, add a pinch of clove or steep some star anise. Or leave the spice out altogether and you still have a nice simple sherbet. Perfect to enjoy with your favorite cookie or a bite of chocolate.

Bench notes:
- Lemon juice bolsters the brightness of the orange juice.
- Salt is very important for enhancing the flavor of both dairy and citrus, so add a pinch to the simmering cream and milk and then taste again and adjust for salt once you've added the orange and lemon juices.
- Add a splash of Grand Marnier for a stronger pop of orange.
- Let the sherbet sit for a few minutes to soften a bit before scooping and serving.

Orange Spice Sherbet
Makes abut 1 1/2 pints

1 C heavy cream
1/2 C milk
1/2 C sugar
zest of 2 oranges
1/4 t ground cardamom
pinch cinnamon
pinch allspice
pinch salt, to taste
1 1/2 C fresh orange juice
2 T fresh lemon juice

Combine the cream, milk, sugar, orange zest, spices and a pinch of salt in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium low heat. Simmer until the sugar is dissolved. Take off the heat, add the orange juice and lemon juice and whisk until thoroughly combined. Taste and adjust for salt. Cool completely.

Pour into an airtight container and place in the refrigerator to chill thoroughly, preferably overnight.

Churn the sherbet according to your machine's instructions. Pour into an airtight container and pack it down firmly to eliminate any air pockets. Press a piece of plastic wrap into the surface, cover and place in the freezer to firm up.

Peanut Butter & Jam Cookies

noreply@blogger.com (pastry studio) — Fri, 01 Mar 2013 15:38:00 +0000

Peanuts ground to a pasty substance were likely a product of Aztec Native American culture hundreds of years ago. Although not particularly favored in Europe, peanut butter as we know it today is considered a household staple in the United States. Like all American kids, I grew up on peanut butter sandwiches. And, like everybody else, I never seemed to tire of them. The pairing of nutty, salty peanut butter and sweet fruity jam probably gave rise to my affinity for sweet-salty combinations. But it's been ages since I've had a peanut butter sandwich so I thought I'd remedy that with this cookie.

This is a shortbread type of peanut butter cookie so it's crisp and crumbly and not terribly sweet. I love a good intense peanut butter cookie - you know, the kind we all got hooked on as kids - but this one has a subtler flavor. To bolster the subtlety, the jam and casual slight dip of chocolate bring the bling.

The dough for this simple butter cookie comes together in a food processor, a most favored tool in my kitchen. Once the dough has had a thorough chilling, the cookies are cut out and baked, then on to the dipping and filling. Use your very favorite jam. I'm partial to raspberry.

Bench notes:
- Chill the cookie dough thoroughly so cookies hold their shape when baked.
- Gently gather and re-roll scraps for additional cookies.
- If you're not a fan of jam, fill the cookies with chocolate or enjoy them plain. Or serve them with your favorite ice cream.
- The cookies will soften when filled, so eat them soon after. Unfilled and undipped cookies can be stored in an airtight container for a few days.
- If you love peanut cookies, you must try this incredible Peanut Cookie Brittle.

Peanut Butter & Jam Cookies
Makes 24 cookies; 12 sandwich cookies

1 1/4 C flour
1/2 C powdered sugar
1/2 t salt
4 oz (8 T) cold butter
1/4 C peanut butter
1 egg yolk
1 t vanilla

2 oz semi-sweet or bittersweet chocolate
1 oz (2 T) butter

your favorite jam

Place the flour, powdered sugar and salt in the bowl of a food processor and process to combine. Cut the cold butter into 1/2" pieces and add to the flour mixture along with the peanut butter. Process until it looks like course meal. Add the egg yolk and vanilla and process until the dough begins to clump around the center of the machine.

Gather the dough and place on a piece of plastic wrap. Cover with another piece of plastic wrap and roll out to about a 10 1/2" square. Slide onto a sheet pan and refrigerate until completely chilled.

When ready to bake, preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line two baking sheets with parchment or silpats.

Remove the sheet of cookie dough from the refrigerator and lift off the plastic wrap from both sides. Using a 2" square cookie cutter or other similar sized shape, cut out cookies and place on prepared cookie sheets.

Bake the cookies until the edges just start to take on some color, about 12 minutes, rotating the baking sheets halfway through. Cool the pans on a wire rack.

Chop the chocolate into very small pieces and place in a small heatproof bowl. Add the butter and melt together over a water bath, whisking to thoroughly combine. Dip a portion of 12 of the cookies in the chocolate, scraping against the side of the bowl to eliminate any extra. Set on a wire rack to dry. Spread the other half of the cookies with your favorite jam and sandwich the cookies together.

Sticky Toffee Pudding

noreply@blogger.com (pastry studio) — Fri, 22 Feb 2013 17:03:00 +0000

The origins of Sticky Toffee Pudding are distinctly British. Some say it's an old recipe from the South of England, although inhabitants of Eastern Scotland also lay claim to its invention. Whatever the case, it appears to have been developed in a hotel kitchen, which may account for the fact that it continues to appear on restaurant menus with some regularity, likely based in part on its ease of preparation. Also note that this is not a pudding in American terms. In Britain, "puddings" are steamed cakes. In America, Sticky Toffee Pudding is a baked cake served with toffee sauce, which is where the sticky part comes in. Are you with me?

I have to confess, I've never been inclined to try this dessert. I've always veered away from most recipes for it because they seemed too sweet for my taste. But when I saw Rose Levy Beranbaum's version, I was very tempted to give it a go. First of all, she soaks the dates in Guinness beer, which I think provides a great foil for the sweetness. Secondly, her use of sugar is relatively restrained. And despite Beranbaum's reputation for copious detail, this recipe is not at all complicated or fussy. (By the way, Rose dined in a restaurant where I once worked and the pastry department went into high prep mode to present her with some exquisite tastings. She is very funny and gracious.)

This cake is fairly light with a very nice soft crumb. The toffee sauce is really terrific - rich and dark without overwhelming everything. I think the lemon juice saves it from being too cloying. The sauce really makes the whole dessert so don't even consider leaving it out! And I've added a dollop of whipped cream here but vanilla ice cream would of course be superb.

Bench notes:
- I highly recommend using Medjool dates because they are gorgeously plump and have a sort of natural toffee flavor all their own.
- When you add the baking soda to the hot beer, the mixture will foam up.
- Don't be alarmed when you see that there isn't much cake batter. It rises generously.
- I made 1/2 the cake recipe in an 8" x 8" dish. If you double the recipe for the cake, you'll need a 9" x 13" pan. Use a total of 3 eggs.
- In the original recipe, Beranbaum sets the temperature at 350 degrees but cautions if you use a Pyrex dish or dark pan, then it should be lowered to 300 degrees. However, I baked mine in a Pyrex dish at 325 degrees and that worked fine.
- I made 1/4 of the toffee sauce recipe, which I thought was plenty for 1/2 of the cake recipe. If you increase the toffee sauce, you'll likely have some left over, which would be crazy terrific spooned over ice cream.
- I cooked the toffee sauce for 2 minutes on low heat to make sure the sugar was dissolved and to develop a bit of color.
- If you notice a white powdery film on the surface of your dates, this is due to their natural sugar and is not cause for alarm. It's just sugar crystal formation. Once the dates are warm, the crystals dissolve.

Sticky Toffee Pudding
adapted from Rose's Heavenly Cakes by Rose Levy Beranbaum
Note: The recipe below is for half the original cake recipe and one-fourth of the toffee sauce. You can find the full version of this recipe here.
Serves 6

3 oz dates [I used 7 medium-sized Medjool dates]
1/2 C stout beer, preferably Guinness extra stout
1/2 t baking soda

1 C flour

1/2 t baking powder

1/4 t salt

1/2 t cinnamon

1/4 t nutmeg

1 1/2 oz (3 T) butter @ room temperature
1/2 C + 1 T sugar
3/4 t vanilla extract
1 egg @ room temperature
1 egg yolk @ room temperature

Toffee Sauce
2 oz (4 T) butter
1/4 C dark brown sugar, packed
1/4 vanilla bean [I used a scant 1/2 t vanilla extract]
2 T heavy cream
1 1/2 t lemon juice
pinch of salt, to taste

1 C heavy cream
2 t sugar
1/2 t vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Grease an 8" x 8" Pyrex baking dish and line the bottom with parchment, leaving an overhang on two sides.

Cut open the dates and remove the pit and stem. Coarsely chop and place in a bowl.

Bring the Guinness to a boil. Remove from heat and whisk in the baking soda. Pour this over the dates and set aside to cool. Then place the dates in a food processor with a little of the beer mixture. Process until a paste is formed, gradually adding the remaining beer mixture through the feed tube. Scrape into a bowl and set aside.

Sift together the flour, baking powder, salt, cinnamon and nutmeg.

Beat the butter, sugar and vanilla on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 4 minutes. Whisk the egg and egg yolk and gradually add in three additions, scraping down the sides and bottom of the bowl as you go. Add a third of the flour mixture, alternating with half the date mixture and beginning and ending with the flour. Mix just until the batter is uniform in color without any streaks. Scrape the cake batter into the prepared pan and spread out the evenly.

Bake for 25 - 30 minutes or until a tester comes out clean. Cool for 10 minutes in the pan on a wire rack. Then gently lift the cake out of the pan using the parchment overhang to assist. Remove the parchment.

While the cake is baking, prepare the toffee sauce. Place the brown sugar and butter in a small saucepan. If you're using a vanilla bean, scrape the seeds into the pan and add the pod. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat, whisking constantly. Remove the pan from the heat and add the heavy cream, lemon juice and salt, to taste. (If using vanilla extract, add it at this point. If using a vanilla bean, remove the pod.)

For the whipped cream, whisk the cream, sugar and vanilla just until it holds a very soft peak. Place a slice of cake on a plate and spoon the toffee sauce over the top. Garnish with a dollop of whipped cream.

Poppy Seed Sandwich Cookies

noreply@blogger.com (pastry studio) — Fri, 15 Feb 2013 15:56:00 +0000

It's time to have some fun with sandwich cookies. I love making cookies of all kinds - crispy, crunchy, soft, chewy, sandy, nutty, spicy; piped, cut, rolled or dropped. What makes pastry so much fun is the delicious variety of all these shapes, sizes, tastes and textures. Sandwich cookies are a bit more fancy just by virtue of their filling but they aren't really a whole lot more work, especially when you keep the ingredients simple.

Poppy seeds are an ancient ingredient widely used in Eastern European pastries. I've used them here to make poppy seed cookies with a hint of lemon. The filling is a nice gooey cream cheese frosting that also has a spritz of lemon to keep it bright and not overly sweet. If you prefer a simple shortbread, these cookies are also perfectly good plain. And since they're made in a food processor, they take very little effort.

Bench notes:
- For an inexpensive alternative, I buy poppy seeds at World Market.
- Gently gather and re-roll scraps for additional cookies.
- These would also taste great filled with some raspberry or blueberry jam.
- Cookies soften a bit when filled so if you'd like to keep them crisp, fill them just before you're ready to serve. Cookies will keep in an airtight container; the filling will keep in the refrigerator.
- If you love poppy seeds, try this tender Poppy Seed Cake with Mascarpone Cream.

Poppy Seed Sandwich Cookies
Makes about 32 cookies or 16 sandwich cookies

2 C flour
1/2 C confectioner's sugar
1/4 C poppy seeds
1/4 t salt
zest of 1 lemon
8 oz (16 T) cold butter
1 egg
1 t vanilla

Filling
4 oz cream cheese @ room temperature
1 1/2 oz (3 T) butter @ room temperature
1/2 C confectioner's sugar, sifted
2 t lemon juice
1/4 t vanilla

Place the flour, confectioner's sugar, poppy seeds, salt and lemon zest into the bowl of a food processor and process to combine. Cut the cold butter into 1/2" cubes and add to the flour mixture. Process 10 - 15 seconds. Combine the egg and vanilla and pour over the mixture. Process about 15 seconds until the dough starts to clump around the center of the machine.

Gather the dough and divide in half. Place half of the dough on a piece of plastic wrap. Cover with another piece of plastic wrap and roll out to a circle 9 1/4" in diameter. Slide onto a sheet pan and refrigerate until completely chilled. Repeat with the other half of the cookie dough.

When the cookie dough has been thoroughly chilled, preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment or silpats.

Remove one sheet of cookie dough from the refrigerator and lift off the plastic wrap on both sides. Using a 2" round or square cookie cutter or other similar sized shape, cut out cookies and place on prepared cookie sheet. Refrigerate. Repeat with second sheet of cookie dough.

When oven is ready, bake the cookies until the edges just start to take on some color, about 12 minutes, rotating the baking sheets halfway through. Cool on a wire rack.

For the filling, whisk together all of the ingredients until smooth. Spread onto half of the cookies and top with remaining cookies.

Hazelnut-Stuffed Pears with Maple Glaze

noreply@blogger.com (pastry studio) — Fri, 08 Feb 2013 15:55:00 +0000

Like you, I've got lots of stacks of recipes to try and hundreds of online bookmarks of pastries and desserts that I keep meaning to move to the line-up for more careful consideration. This is one of the "someday I must try this" recipes that I'm really happy to pass along because it's an amazing fruit composition that has all the elements of a perfect winter dessert.

My go-to fresh fruits this time of the year are apples, pears and citrus. Today's very sumptuous dessert recipe features roasted pears with a terrific sauce. I'd say it's definitely one for your recipe files to use whenever you have some fresh pears and about 10 - 15 minutes to get the whole thing together.

The pears are peeled, cored and stuffed with a brown sugar and hazelnut mixture fortified with just a little nip of booze and butter. Some apple juice is added to the roasting pan and maple syrup is drizzled on top of the stuffed pears. As they bake to peak perfection, the butter and brown sugar melt and intermingle with the apple juice, maple syrup and Frangelico and transform into a swoon-worthy caramel. This makes for a super delicious baste for the pears and a luscious sauce when served.

I love the hazelnut vibe in this recipe but if you're not a fan of hazelnuts, substitute almonds or pecans and use Amaretto, brandy or rum. In this instance, I think you must serve the pears with vanilla ice cream for an extra moment of sublime luxury, any given day of the week. And really - I must honestly say, I hope you survive all this crazy goodness.

Bench notes:
- I used D'Anjou pears.
- I added a pinch of cinnamon and salt to the filling, which I think made a really wonderful difference.
- My pears were fairly ripe and baked in half the time, 20 minutes. So depending on your fruit, I would advise to test for doneness as you baste.
- I served this dessert with some Goat Cheese Ice Cream from Jeni's Splendid Ice Creams at Home by Jeni Britton Bauer, which was hideously magnificent.
- The roasted pears would also be good to serve alongside a cheese plate.

Hazelnut-Stuffed Pears with Maple Glaze
adapted from Bon Appetit
Makes 6 servings

1/3 C hazelnuts, toasted and husked
1/3 C golden brown sugar, packed [I used dark brown]
2 t flour
pinch cinnamon [my addition]
pinch salt [my addition]
3/4 oz (1 1/2 T) butter @ room temperature
2 t Frangelico

3 D'Anjou or Bosc pears
1/4 C + 2 T unsweetened apple juice
1/4 C + 2 T pure grade B maple syrup

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Coarsely chop nuts into bite-sized pieces. Place in a bowl with the brown sugar and flour and toss. Add a good pinch of cinnamon and a light sprinkle of salt, if using. Break the butter into small pieces and work it in with your fingers until roughly combined along with the liqueur.

Peel, halve and core each pear, making a nice well for the stuffing. Arrange them cut side up in a 11" x 7" glass baking dish. Mound the nut mixture into each of the pear cavities, pressing to compact the filling. Pour the apple juice into the dish. Drizzle each pear with 1 tablespoon of maple syrup.

Roast the pears until tender, about 45 minutes, basting occasionally with the juices. Pears should give easily when pierced with a sharp knife. Transfer pears to plates and drizzle with the juices. Serve warm with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

Sticky Pecan Bites

noreply@blogger.com (pastry studio) — Fri, 01 Feb 2013 15:52:00 +0000

It's early in the morning and the aroma of fresh coffee wafting through the house makes you realize you'd like a nice little something to go with that first luscious cup of hot java. Maybe you have some new coffee beans you've ground and you're excited about a new brew. Or maybe you'd just like something to take the edge off an early rise. Something that is so easy there can be no resistance to the idea of making them on a whim as you greet the coming of a new day.

There's something about pecans and sticky buttery brown sugar concoctions that make just about everyone sit up and take notice. The smell of cinnamon and gooey sugar gets all our neurons firing. These little two-bite pastries capture a lot of that flavor and chewy goodness with very little effort on any given day of the week.

Instead of a yeast dough or pie dough, this is a very quick preparation similar to cream scones. Once you slather the rectangle of dough with butter, a sprinkle of salt, cinnamon and brown sugar, you roll it up and refrigerate it so it firms up enough to slice easily. Bake them and in just 12 - 15 minutes you suddenly have a snack plate full of delicious pastries that would also be great for a brunch or as a bite-sized sweet on a party tray. And while these obviously don't have the richness of full-blown cinnamon rolls or sticky buns, their lightness and modesty provide their own sort of benefit. This enticing little bite with that freshly brewed cup of coffee will no doubt send you happily on your way.

Bench notes:
- The recipe calls for pecan halves placed in the muffin wells but I chopped them coarsely for a different look and bite.
- I added some orange zest on top of the brown sugar layer before rolling up the dough. I'd probably also add a pinch more cinnamon the next time or maybe a dot of allspice because I'm a slave to spices.
- To portion the pieces equally, the easiest thing to do is to cut the roll of dough in half, then cut each portion in half, then cut each portion into 6 pieces.
- You really do want to release the pastries from the pan straight out of the oven or the sugar hardens on the bottom and they will stick. Just flip the pan over and they pop right out.
- I forgot to sprinkle the salt on top of the butter so I sprinkled the pastries after I baked them and turned them out. In any case, salt really does add to the deliciousness so be sure to use it.

Sticky Pecan Bites
adapted from Chewy Gooey Crispy Crunchy Melt-in-Your Mouth Cookies by Alice Medrich
Makes 24 pastries

24 pecan halves
1 C flour
1 t baking powder
1/4 t salt + more for sprinkling
3/4 C heavy cream
1/2 C brown sugar, packed
1/2 t cinnamon
1 oz (2 T) butter, very soft + more for preparing mini-muffin pans

Grease a mini-muffin pan or pans with butter. Place a pecan half in each muffin cup, top side down.

Whisk the flour, baking powder and salt together. Make a well in the center and pour the cream into the well. Stir together just until the dry ingredients are completely moistened and a soft dough forms. The dough won't look perfectly smooth. Set aside to let it rest for 2 - 3 minutes so the flour absorbs all the cream.

Mix the brown sugar and cinnamon together.

Place the dough on a lightly floured piece of parchment or a work surface. Roll the dough out to a rectangle about 12" x 7" and 1/4" thick, lightly dusting with flour as necessary. Using a small offset spatula or your fingertips, spread the dough with the soft butter. Sprinkle with a pinch of salt. Sprinkle the brown sugar and cinnamon, leaving a 1/4" border.

Starting at one of the shorter ends, roll the dough up tightly and press the seam to seal. Place the roll seam side down and gently stretch it to lengthen it slightly to about 12". Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Cut the roll of dough crosswise into 24 equal pieces. Place each piece in a muffin cup, cut side up. Bake until browned, 12 - 15 minutes, rotating the pan(s) from front to back halfway through the baking time to ensure even baking. Immediately turn the pastries out onto a sheet of parchment on a heatproof surface. Serve warm.

Pineapple Coconut Pudding Cakes

noreply@blogger.com (pastry studio) — Fri, 25 Jan 2013 15:15:00 +0000

I think I'm finally getting the hang of 2013. For some reason, it always takes me a while to get used to the new year. I guess the nature of Janus, the ancient mythological Roman god of beginnings and transitions and the basis for the name of the month of January, has a particular effect on me. Like the image of Janus with his face simultaneously pointed in two directions, it's both a time to look back over the year past and then ahead to what might come. But as we move along into February, we know for certain we can anticipate lots of chocolate and hopefully the appearance of supremely delicious blood oranges.

There's something about fresh pineapple that is especially welcome during the winter months. I love the bracing acidity and tartness and the beaming bright shock of yellow. This dessert ties all these threads together in a pudding cake, which is the kind of dessert that separates into a layer of cake and a little layer of sauce at the bottom. Coconut and lemon also tag along for more texture and taste, a slight nod to the tropics. I saute the pineapple in a little bit of butter to caramelize and expand the flavor. Otherwise, it's a pretty simple process to produce and it's good served warm or at room temperature.

Bench notes:
- If your pineapple is super tart, sprinkle lightly with sugar as you saute in butter.
- For the bain marie, I used two smaller roasting pans instead of one large one, which makes it much easier to manage when removing from the oven.
- The water for the bain marie should be hot. If your tap water isn't hot enough, when you begin your preparation for this dessert, bring a pot of water to a simmer, take off the heat, cover and set aside until you're ready to bake.
- I think this would also be good with fresh berries in the bottom of the ramekin in place of the sauteed pineapple.

Pineapple Coconut Pudding Cakes
Serves 6

1 C fresh pineapple
1/4 oz (1/2 T) butter

3/4 C sugar, divided
1/3 C flour
1/4 t salt
1 C milk
1/3 C sweetened shredded coconut
5 T lemon juice
zest of 1/2 lemon
3 eggs, separated
2 oz (4 T) butter, melted

powdered sugar for dusting

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease six 6-oz ramekins.

Chop the pineapple into bite-sized pieces and place in a pan with the butter. Saute over medium heat for about 5 - 7 minutes or until the fruit begins to caramelize. Distribute the pineapple equally among the six ramekins.

Whisk all but 2 tablespoons of sugar with the flour and salt.

In another bowl, whisk the milk, coconut, lemon juice, zest and egg yolks until thoroughly combined. Blend in the melted butter. Add the flour mixture and whisk until smooth. The batter will be very thin and may look slightly curdled.

Beat the egg whites with the remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar until stiff glossy peaks form. Gently fold the egg whites into the coconut lemon mixture one-third at a time. Pour the batter into the prepared ramekins and place them in a large roasting pan or two smaller roasting pans. Pour in enough hot water to reach halfway up the sides of the ramekins.

Bake the pudding cakes for about 25 minutes or until they are puffed up but firm to the touch and slightly golden on top. Carefully remove from oven and transfer ramekins to a wire rack.

Dust with powdered sugar and serve warm or at room temperature.

Apple Pie with Sour Cream Ice Cream & Maple Caramel

noreply@blogger.com (pastry studio) — Fri, 18 Jan 2013 15:58:00 +0000

This is a riff on an all-American composition from Bill Yosses. The three elements of apple pie, a tart ice cream and a garnish of maple caramel turn out to be a very harmonious pairing.

I mentioned in my last post that I always have lemons available in my kitchen and I feel the same way about apples. Apple desserts are among my favorite and who doesn't love apple pie? This one is topped with a cinnamon streusel like the American version of Dutch Apple Pie. The Sour Cream Ice Cream adds that creamy and luxurious mouthfeel and a nice tart contrast to the sweet notes. The Maple Caramel is a layer of buttery maple gooeyness with a hint of salt. It's a good old fashioned American festival on a plate.

This is Yosses' wonderful concept but I altered the recipes a bit for easier home production and a bit less richness. I use a simple butter dough that can be made in a food processor and eliminated the eggs from the ice cream. I also thought the maple caramel sauce was too sweet, so I reduced the brown sugar and added some vanilla and a slight splash of brandy, just for fun.

This does take some preparation but each component is very simple, takes just a few minutes for each and can be staged over a few days to make assembly fairly easy. This is a fun way to enjoy apples, ice cream and caramel!

On another note, I keep forgetting to say I've joined twitter and Pinterest. If you're there as well, please let me know how to find you so I can follow you. Thanks!

Bench notes:
- To stage this out over 2 - 3 days, make the ice cream and store in your freezer. Make the streusel and store in an airtight container in your refrigerator for up to 2 days ahead. Prepare the pastry dough the morning you expect to bake or the night before. Prepare the apples and caramel just before baking.
- I used Fuji apples. Since apples bake down a bit, mound them slightly as you place them in the pie shells.
- If you prefer, make the pie in a regular pie dish or tart pan rather than individuals. You'll want to use more apples (probably twice the amount here) and would need to increase the baking time.
- I eliminated the egg yolks, added more sugar (about 2/3 cup total) and about 1/8 teaspoon salt to Yosses' ice cream. If you don't have a vanilla bean, add 1/2 teaspoon of vanilla extract or do as I did and leave it out entirely. So the idea here is to taste as you whisk it together and adjust to our own preferences on all these dimensions. If you prefer to make Yosses' custard style recipe, he uses 4 yolks and cooks it using the usual method. The sour cream is added last to the cooked custard.
- Substitute your favorite vanilla ice cream if you don't have an ice cream maker.
- Yosses plates this dessert with a small nibble of honeycomb and 2 cheeses: Toma Celena, an Alpine-style rich and nutty hard cheese, and Colby, a soft and mild cheese. Both are made from cow's milk.

Apple Pie with Sour Cream Ice Cream & Maple Caramel
Makes 6 servings and about 1 1/2 pints of ice cream

Sour Cream Ice Cream

2 C sour cream
1 C half-and-half
1/2 C sugar [I used about 2/3 C]
1/2 vanilla bean [I left this out]
pinch salt [my addition]

Streusel

1/3 C flour
2 T sugar
2 T dark brown sugar, packed
1/4 t cinnamon
1 1/2 oz (3 T) cold butter
pinch salt, to taste

Pastry Dough

1 C flour
1 1/2 t sugar
1/8 t salt
3 oz cold butter
1/4 C cold water

Maple Caramel

2 oz butter
2 T dark brown sugar, packed
1/4 C maple syrup
1/2 t vanilla
1/2 t brandy (optional)
pinch salt, to taste

Apple Filling

1 lb (2 very large) apples
2 T sugar
1/2 t flour
pinch cinnamon
1 t lemon juice

For the ice cream, whisk together the sour cream, half-and-half, sugar and seeds scraped from the vanilla bean (if using). Add salt, to taste. Pour into an airtight container and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.

Churn according to your machine's instructions. Pour into an airtight container, press a piece of plastic wrap into the surface, cover and place in your freezer to firm up.

For the streusel, whisk together the flour, sugars, cinnamon and salt. Cut the cold butter into small pieces and add to the dry ingredients. Toss the mixture, coating the butter with flour. Rub the mixture together with your fingers until the butter is roughly worked into the dry ingredients, pinching it here and there until it collects into clumps and resembles coarse crumbles. Chill until ready to use.

For the pie dough, place the flour, sugar and salt in the bowl of a food processor and process until combined. Cut the cold butter into 1/2" pieces and add to the flour mixture. Pulse until it looks like very coarse meal with small bits of butter that are about 1/8" - 1/4". Add the cold water and pulse just until the dough starts to clump. It will look a bit like small curd cottage cheese. Do not overmix. Remove the dough, shape into a flat disc and wrap in a piece of plastic. Chill for at least an hour.

Place six 3 1/2" ring molds or tartlet pans on a baking sheet lined with parchment or a silpat.

Remove the dough from the refrigerator and place on a lightly floured piece of parchment or work surface. Let it sit for a couple of minutes to take the chill off. Lightly dust the surface of the dough with flour and roll out to about an 1/8" thickness, keeping the work surface and dough lightly floured as needed. Cut the dough into 6 equal pieces. Lift each piece into the ring molds or tartlet pans and gently shape to fit closely into all the contours of the pan. Chill the pie shells until ready to use.

For the Maple Caramel, melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add brown sugar and whisk to combine. Cook, whisking constantly, until sugar is completely dissolved. Bring to a boil for two minutes. Add maple syrup and boil another two minutes, whisking constantly. Remove from heat and pour into a small bowl. Add vanilla, brandy (if using) and salt, to taste. Set aside.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Peel and core apples. Cut into 1/4" slices and then cut crosswise into 1/2" pieces. Place in a bowl and toss with the sugar, flour and cinnamon. Add the lemon juice and toss to coat.

Nestle the apples into the pie shells until they are slightly mounded. Top each pie with streusel. Place the pies on the baking sheet in the oven and bake for 35 - 40 minutes or until the fruit juices are bubbling and the pastry has slightly browned. Serve warm or at room temperature with a scoop of ice cream and a drizzle of maple caramel.

Lemon Sherbet

noreply@blogger.com (pastry studio) — Fri, 11 Jan 2013 17:14:00 +0000

Citrus features prominently in many of my pastries and desserts. It really brightens the flavor of fruit, enhances cakes and provides depth to creams and custards. In particular, I consider lemons essential to my work and I always have them handy.

For this recipe, I decided to make lemon the star. I love an easy and refreshing sorbet, but in this formulation I introduced some buttermilk to add another layer of tang. I also mixed in some heavy cream for lusciousness. When you add dairy to sorbet, it becomes sherbet.

This recipe couldn't be any easier. All the ingredients are simply whisked together and then chilled thoroughly, preferably overnight to allow everything to relax and mingle. Then it's churned and presto! A cool and tart scoop is yours.

Bench notes:
- Salt is very important to enhance the properties of dairy. Keep adding a few grains at a time until the flavor pops. You'll know it when you get there.
- Chilling the base thoroughly means your ice cream machine will work efficiently and more effectively.
- Before churning the sherbet in your ice cream machine, you can strain out the lemon zest if your prefer.
- After pouring the churned ice cream into a clean airtight container, I press a piece of plastic into the surface to prevent ice crystal formation.
- Add a tablespoon or two of vodka for a softer sherbet.
- Because homemade ice cream doesn't contain any commercial additives or emulsifiers, it needs to sit at room temperature for a few minutes before scooping.
- This is great served alongside berry pies or tarts in the summertime.

Lemon Sherbet

2/3 C sugar
1/4 C + 2 T fresh lemon juice
zest of 2 lemons
1 1/2 C buttermilk
1 C heavy cream
good pinch of salt

Whisk the sugar, lemon juice, lemon zest, buttermilk and heavy cream together until completely blended. Add a pinch of salt, to taste. Pour into an airtight container and chill thoroughly.

Whisk the mixture and freeze in your ice cream machine according to manufacturer's instructions. Pour into a clean airtight container, press a piece of plastic into the surface, cover and place in your freezer to firm up.

Apple Lattice Galette

noreply@blogger.com (pastry studio) — Fri, 04 Jan 2013 20:50:00 +0000

As much as I love testing all kinds of new recipes, it seems the pastries that are consistently favored most at the table are those that are the simplest compositions based on buttery pastry dough. Whether they are pies, galettes or flaky Eastern European pastries, they are inevitably scooped up and consumed with unbridled enjoyment.

This apple galette is one such pastry. It begins with a very delicious and easy dough. I love the way it shatters into crispy shards when you bite into it. The simple mixture is from Jacques Pepin and is an iteration of what was called "crunch dough" at Chez Panisse and other area professional kitchens. I have taken to making it in a food processor and if you're careful not to overmix, it comes out beautifully.

The apples are sauteed in butter and sugar with a spritz of lemon juice and a slight pinch of cinnamon. Since I had a bit of cream cheese left over from some holiday experiments, I added a thin cream layer underneath the apples. It's just enough to round out the flavors and textures. I used the technique of a Danish braid for a different presentation and a more pastry-to-fruit ratio.

A Happy New Year to all the wonderful readers of Pastry Studio. Lots of great pastries and desserts in the year ahead!!

Bench notes:
- Make sure the butter and water for the pastry dough are very cold, which is what makes the pastry flaky.
- I used Fuji apples, which are quite sweet. If you use different apples, add sugar, to taste.
- I searched for an illustration for how to achieve the Danish braid lattice effect and found this pretty good one. Scroll all the way to the bottom.

Apple Lattice Galette
Serves 6 - 8

1 C flour
1 1/2 t sugar
1/8 t salt
3 oz (6 T) cold butter
1/4 C cold water

2 apples

1 T butter

2 T sugar

1 t lemon juice

pinch cinnamon

3 oz cream cheese @ room temperature
1 T + 2 t sugar
1/2 t lemon juice
slight pinch salt

For the pastry dough, place the flour, sugar and salt in the bowl of a food processor and process to combine. Cut the cold butter into 1/2" pieces, add to the flour mixture and process for 5 seconds. Add the cold water and pulse about 15 times. The dough will look a bit lumpy, like cottage cheese. Gather the dough and place on a piece of plastic wrap. Shape into a flattened rectangle and wrap. Chill the dough at least 30 minutes or overnight.

For the apple filling, peel, core and cut the apples into 1/4" slices. Melt the butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add the apple slices, sugar, lemon juice and a slight pinch of cinnamon and toss well to combine. Cook, stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid has evaporated and the apples are tender, about 15 minutes. Set aside to cool.

To make the cream filling, combine the softened cream cheese, sugar, lemon juice and a few grains of salt until smooth. Set aside.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Remove the dough from the refrigerator and rest on lightly floured parchment paper. Let it sit for a few minutes to soften enough to be able to roll it out without cracking.

Roll the dough out to a 14" x 11" rectangle, gently lifting and moving the dough after each roll and lightly flouring as needed to prevent sticking. When you have the desired shape, brush off excess flour and lift the pastry along with the parchment paper onto a baking sheet.

Spread the cream cheese filling down the middle third of the dough with the shorter 11" end at left to right. Layer the cooled apples over the top of the cream cheese mixture. Using a sharp knife, cut the outer thirds of dough on each side into 3/4" strips at about a 45 degree angle to the filling. Starting at the top, fold over the top piece of dough onto the filling and then, alternating sides, fold the strips of dough over the filling, crisscrossing over the center, until the entire surface is braided and the bottom piece of dough is tucked in over the filling. Brush the surface with melted butter and dust with a light sprinkling of sugar.

Bake the galette until the dough is crisp and browned, 35 - 40 minutes. Place on a wire rack to cool.

Sponge Cake with Quince & Crème Anglaise

noreply@blogger.com (pastry studio) — Fri, 28 Dec 2012 16:04:00 +0000

Throughout history, quince have been associated with romance and commitment, a gift from Aphrodite. By the early 18th century, this unique fruit had found its way to the United States. Although quinces are a staple in savory Moroccan tagines, North African and Middle Eastern stews, Chinese teas and Hindu chutneys, in America, they are mostly poached in a light syrup, used as a pastry filling or made into a sweet paste and served as an accompaniment to cheese.

We are at the very end of quince season, so I thought I'd jump in before we forge our path into a new year. It's hard to believe we've breezed right through the 2012 holiday season, but here we are.

This dessert is composed of an Olive Oil Sponge Cake that is one of the easiest and tastiest sponge cakes you'll ever make. It's my very favorite of its kind. The quince compote is served alongside the cake with a helping of crème anglaise, a classic French dessert sauce. The contrasting combination of textures and lightness and richness is more than satisfying for fans of each. If you don't have time for the sauce, vanilla ice cream is purely perfect as a delicious accompaniment.

Wishing you a really terrific New Year's celebration with close family and friends and sending heartfelt thanks for your lovely companionship here at my blog. Let's set our tables in 2013 with great friends, sumptuous meals and beautiful pastry. Cheers!!

Bench notes:
- Quince compote can be made ahead and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for several days. The sponge cake can be made, wrapped in plastic and stored in an airtight container at room temperature one day ahead. (It also freezes well.) The crème anglaise can be made one day in advance and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator.
- Be care when peeling and cutting into quinces. They are very hard and will take steady but careful force. Use a sharp chef's knife and a non-slip work surface and watch your fingers. I find them easier to work with if they are first cut into quarters.
- I like a crème anglaise that is less rich than most recipes, so I use whole milk rather than cream. If you prefer a richer sauce, you can substitute 1 cup half-and-half (or 1/2 cup heavy cream and 1/2 cup milk).

Sponge Cake with Quince & Crème Anglaise
Makes 8 servings

Poached Quince
3 C water
3/4 C sugar
1/2 vanilla bean, split
1/2 cinnamon stick
3" strip of lemon or orange peel, pith removed
2 - 3 quinces

Olive Oil Sponge Cake

Crème Anglaise
1 C whole milk
2 egg yolks
2 T + 2 t sugar
1/8 t - 1/4 t vanilla, to taste

For the quince compote, bring the water, sugar, vanilla bean, cinnamon stick and citrus peel to a boil. Lower heat to a simmer.

Cut the quince into quarters and then peel and core them. Cut them into 1/2" slices and place in the simmering syrup. Bring to a boil. Press a round of parchment paper onto the top of the mixture to hold in the steam. Reduce heat to a low simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the quinces are tender and have turned a deep rose color, about 1 1/2 - 2 hours. Cool and transfer the fruit and syrup to a clean airtight container and chill.

Prepare the sponge cake and cool completely.

For the crème anglaise, bring the milk to a simmer. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg yolks and sugar until thoroughly combined. Add half the warm milk to the yolks and whisk together. Add remaining milk and whisk thoroughly. Pour the mixture into the saucepan and return to low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon or spatula until the mixture thickens slightly. Do not boil. The sauce is ready when it coats the back of the spoon and a finger traced through it leaves a clean track, about 3 - 4 minutes. Remove from heat and immediately pour into a clean bowl to stop the cooking. Add vanilla and cool.

To serve, plate a slice of cake and garnish with thin slices of quince and crème anglaise.