Pattern Runway

Been sewing lately?

noreply@blogger.com (Pattern Runway) — Tue, 21 Aug 2012 04:20:00 +0000

Photo by innaThewall wearing her version of the Easy Kimono Dress

I started the Pattern Runway Group on flickr long before I even had any patterns to sell and had totally forgotten about it! I just checked it the other day and got such a surprise to see some gorgeous sewing has been going on there! Thank you to all who have all ready contributed, and if you would like to share, COME and join in and show and tell what you've been making, we so love to see and admire, xxx

{How to:} Sew an Exposed Zipper (with a seam)

noreply@blogger.com (Pattern Runway) — Sun, 03 Jun 2012 20:00:00 +0000

Lately we have been experimenting with our existing patterns, ironing out any quirks and bumps and generally making things better. One thing that came to our attention is the method for sewing the exposed zipper in our “Relaxed Shift Dress” pattern, as it stands, it’s a little on the fiddly side and one thing that sewing should never be is fiddly! Sewing needs to just flow from one step to another without too much fuss and bother. So here is a much easier tutorial for setting in the exposed zipper without the fuss and fiddle.

See below images for written instructions.

How To:

Stabilise: Fuse a 2.5cm / 1” wide strip of suitable weight fusing to each side of the zipper opening (apply to the wrong side of the fabric). Fusing should be slightly shorter that the length of the zipper (including top and bottom tapes).
Marking: If your pattern doesn’t already have the end of the zipper marked or notched, notch or mark the end of the zip.
Staystitching: The opening of the zipper should be wide enough to expose just the zipper teeth plus a little extra for room around the teeth to prevent any fabric from getting caught. Staystitch each side of the zipper opening 6mm plus the seam allowance (1cm for our patterns) from the raw edge, pivoting 90º at the end of zipper mark/notch. Repeat for both sides.
Sew the Seam: With rights sides together, sew the seam (1cm seam allowance for our patterns) from the base of the zipper mark/notch, to the end.
Clipping: Clip into the seam allowances on a diagonal to the zipper base, just to, but not through the staystitching. You may find it easier to cut each seam allowance separately.
Pressing: Press seams open and neaten each edge. Fold and press over the allowance of the zip opening on the staystitching line.
Stitch the lower edge: Working from the right side of the garment, fold back the top of the work to the start of the centre back seam to expose the ‘triangles’ of the clipped seam allowance, align the metal base of the zipper with the centre seam, (zipper should be facing downwards and right sides together) and position it just past the stay stitching. Pin.
With a zipper foot attached to your machine. Stitch across zipper tape and triangles, back tacking at either end.
Stitch the zipper sides: Flip zipper up right way round, tucking the zipper tape and triangles to the inside, Align the pressed and folded edge along the zipper tape and pin.
Pinning: Turn back one side of the dress back to expose the seam allowance and zipper tape, re-pin seam allowance to zipper tape only and remove pins from the front. Repeat for other side.
Sew Sides: Starting from the base of the zip, stitch along the staystitching line. Repeat for other side of zipper. Press with a pressing cloth.

For all our customers who have previously purchased the Relaxed Shift Dress Pattern and would like to be emailed the updated instructions, please contact us and include the order/etsy invoice number and we will be sure to email you the updated instructions.

{Inspire} - How do you wear yours?

noreply@blogger.com (Pattern Runway) — Tue, 29 May 2012 01:25:00 +0000

One thing that I love about our Pussy Bow Blouse Pattern is that it is versatile! By having the bow as a separate piece from the blouse, this gives you options and there's nothing quite like a garment that gives you options!
I made up this sweet black and white spotted georgette this week and have been having fun playing with the different ways that you can tie the bow, and the different looks that it gives you. From prim, proper and quirky to laid back and casual, so how do you wear yours?

{Inspire} Exploded Flowers

noreply@blogger.com (Pattern Runway) — Fri, 04 May 2012 04:53:00 +0000

These beautiful graphic images are just too pretty not to share. The lovely magazine; Anthology, shared them just the other day and I wanted to share them to! I love how graphic these flowers have become. A study in repetition, pattern, texture, shape and scale. These photographs are also available to purchase as prints, which would look gorgeous to add colour to a sewing space!

Jacket Terminology:

noreply@blogger.com (Pattern Runway) — Tue, 01 May 2012 23:50:00 +0000

Since completing my tailored jacket, I have become slightly obsessed with jackets in all shapes and sizes and can't stop analysing every jacket I see; fit, type of collar, width of lapels, height of notches and depth of break points are all coming under scrutiny. Just incase I am speaking a language that you don't understand heres a little help to know your notches from your lapels.

While we are talking about jacket collars, here are a few of the main collar variations for next time you are admiring a jacket, you too can talk about its peaked lapels, high notches, or lovely Roll collar.

Goal 1 - Completed Tailored Jacket

noreply@blogger.com (Pattern Runway) — Tue, 24 Apr 2012 06:09:00 +0000

Hello there! How are you all? Well at long last, Goal Number 1 is completed! Hurrah, so excited to have it sewn up. There were times when I wanted to throw this all in the bin and be done with it, but I have to say, you do feel a rather satisfying sense of accomplishment in completing a fully lined jacket and seeing a project through the ups and downs of the challenge, through to completion.

I am pleased with the results, it fits well, perhaps just a bit too well and I could have really just graded the pattern down a 1/2 size or maybe, really just through the bust section, as this was the most problematic in terms of fit. This Jacket wasn't without its challenges, starting with the fit issues with the pattern, no seam and hem allowances included and no separate lining pattern either, which have all added a considerable amount of time to the project.

Pattern Preparation:
–Graded pattern down 1 size ( 5cm)
–Shortened the width of the Lapels,
–Drafted under and Upper collar.
–Drafted separate lining pattern, with back pleat, ease added at the armhole and extra length.
–Drafted Welt pocket and pocket bag pattern pieces.

Fabrics:
–Shell: I choose a high quality light weight wool suiting with 10% spandex, it has a lovely drape and handle and was a beautiful to sew and press. And if you are local in brisbane or the Gold Coast, Qld, The Fabric Store in Brisbane, has great selection of wool suitings (amongst other beautiful fabrics).
–Lining: Acetate
–Fusing: Whisper Weft ( available from Spotlight (Australia) or wholesale prices at E& M Greenfield)

There are few things I did in constructing this jacket that I have photographed and shown below. In reading through 'Couture Sewing Techniques', by Claire Shaeffer, She recommends catch stitching pre shrunk cotton tape along the role line and along the lapel and front edge of the jacket, (edge of the tape to lie flat against the seam line).

I loyally followed all of Shaeffer's tailoring advice but perhaps my fabric choice was a bit too light, or perhaps the inclusion of spandex in my fabric proved problematic or perhaps I was just a bit heavy handed with the steam, but I found that the my lovely lapels just didn't sit that well and were a little puckered and just looked well, hand sewn. Even the role line wasn't sitting as nicely as I imagined. So I unpicked all my beautiful handwork, discarding the cotton tape, re pressed my labels and jacket front pieces and when all sewn back together again they sat a lot nicer. No puckering to be seen. I'm sure that this technique would produce a beautiful result on perhaps a more looser and heavier weight weave, but perhaps this fabric just didn't need the extra support.

I opted to block fuse all of the front and back jacket pieces with a high quality weft fusible. For those of you who are unfamiliar with the term Block Fusing, this is a method of fusing an entire piece of fabric before cutting out any pattern pieces rather than cutting out the pattern piece in the shell, repeating in the fusing and then fuse the two together. The advantages of block fusing is that you are only cutting the pattern piece once, saving you time, and in case of shrinkage, the fabric will shrink under the heat before any cutting out is to be done, giving you very accurate results.

The sleeves I left unfused, applying fusing to the hem area, and over the fold line to give stability to a high wear area. To create that beautiful roll of the sleeve head seen on high end tailored jackets, I used a felting piece cut from the sleeve pattern, that I hand tacked on the sleeve just 3mm above the seam line ( of the sleeve) and the seam allowances then get turned into the sleeve which pushes the felt header to pad out the sleeve head.
The Sleeve head is then supported by the shoulder pad. Shaeffers technique was to use a wool batting/felting cut into a long rectangle about 12cm long, by 6cm, fold in half and stitch it to the sleeve same as above. I did try this method also to see which would give the best results and once again perhaps this does depend on your fabric weight as I found it did give a nice roll on the sleeve head, but as there was an excess of fabric in the sleeve, there were visible bumps and bunching and didn't give a smooth support to the sleeve.

I cut a separate under collar on the bias grain with a centre seam that I steamed into shape over a pressing ham, I really do recommend doing this as it creates the perfect shape for your collar. For the upper collar pattern I added on an extra 2.5mm to the edges to help the collar edge to roll over the under collar and prevent the under collar from showing. for heavier weight fabrics you may want to increase that. I also added extra 2.5mm to the Front Facing edges also (just to the break point) , to assist in no seams showing from the front.

So here are my tips should you be inspired to sew your own Tailored Jacket:
–Pattern Selection: choose one with all seam and hem allowances added and choose one with a separate lining pattern. Plus is also helps to have all the pattern pieces required! (A little grumble–Why can't burda include pattern pieces such as Welt pockets and proper pocket patterns! argh... )
–Measuring: Measure the Pattern prior, or if possible obtain the finished pattern measurements so that you know how the garment will fit you. Take into consideration; choice of fabric weight, plus linings and interlinings will bulk out the garment so you will need more ease than say dresses or blouses.
–Toile: Do sew up a toile, and mark pocket placements, buttons etc on your toile and check fit and placement before sewing in your beautiful Fabric.
–UnderCollar; If your pattern doesn't include separate under collar, draft your own with a centre seam, cut on the bias and reduce along the edges by 2.5mm (depending on fabric weight).

So, it seams that my goal setting needs a slight adjustment in the timing department. But I have loved having some extra goals to work towards, so onwards towards Goal No. 2 and lets try for completion in Early May shall we?

Goal 1 - Sew a Tailored Jacket Update

noreply@blogger.com (Pattern Runway) — Tue, 20 Mar 2012 02:12:00 +0000

Just a quick post today to update you on the Tailored Jacket progress. After a long and hard search for the perfect tailored jacket pattern, I realised it didn't exist, and to create the look I was after I will just have to draft my own! But with the aim of saving time and meeting these goals I have set for myself I chose this BurdaStyle Sports Coat.

I liked the low neckline/ breakpoint, the dipped front feature, and the tidy double welt/bound pockets. It also looked fitted with a nice silhouette.

Well, saving time I'm really not sure if this will, as it took me two evenings to print, assemble, trace and add seam and hem allowances, and I still have a separate lining pattern to draft too! But with all that prep done, cutting and sewing the toile took no time at all and I was so excited to test the fit.

This pattern has good points and bad points. I am really happy with the length of the garment. As I am tall, this was my biggest concern and it really is the least of the problems. The sleeves could do with a little more length and maybe just a touch wider at the opening, but very easy adjustments there.

The armholes are great, not too low, nice shape with out restricting movement. The low breakpoint at just below waist level is perfect and is what I was after, creating that lovely long opening, lengthening the figure and drawing the eye to the face. But….

There is just so much ease in this style! I cut the smallest size, size 36 which is to fit body measurements: bust - 84cm, waist - 66cm, hip - 90cm. (which is what my mannequin is sized to) and it is just far too big!

I measured the toile at the bust, and waist and there is 16cm of ease included, which makes the bust a finished measurement of 100cm!!!

Its not too noticeable from the front and you could get away with it. But from the back, there is just so much extra room through the back and under the arms and it is so noticeable when you move your arms. You get this pooching, and creasing across the back which just looks awful. Now I know that the pattern did say it was for sweatshirt fabric, but both the tech drawing and photos of the garments and other peoples edition showed a much more tailored fit. So I was surprised that this was so roomy.

The other thing that I might change (see my sketched in lines) is the shape of the lapel and the height of the collar notch. The lapels are a bit too wide and just a touch too low. I'm thinking I also might change the lapel to a peaked lapel, similar to the Paul and Joe jacket.

So it looks like it's an exercise in grading for moi. So much for taking a short cut! But I do have to say I am enjoying the project, I like the edited style and can't wait to get into it, and wear it out.

Goals for March 2012

noreply@blogger.com (Pattern Runway) — Tue, 13 Mar 2012 03:14:00 +0000

Ever feel like you get into a creative rut? or an unproductive rut? Well to help me out of mine and to keep growing my current skill set, I have set 3 creative goals for March.

This year I really want to grow in my creative productivity, stretch my graphic design skills and of course enhance my sewing and pattern making ability. To help me accomplish that, I need well defined goals! So for this month, March 2012 ( can you believe we are already well into 2012!) this is what I want to accomplish:

I want to brush up on my tailoring skills with the help of Clare Shaeffer's 'Couture Sewing Techniques', and sew a hand tailored, (well it might actually include fusible tailoring) fully lined blazer. Due to time I will most likely choose an existing pattern. This gorgeous jacket is by Paul and Joe, a few seasons ago. I love that its double breasted, has quite fine lapels and that it is long line. So hoping to find a similar pattern.

Dress // Scarf // Lipsticks

Textile design is something that I have been wanting to do for what seems like forever. March seems like a good time to start. Currently I have been inspired by Australian designer 'Gorman' and I think I might aim to design a square silk scarf, maybe geometric like this Gorman one. I am also always inspired by Paul and Joe's graphic prints that they use for both apparel and beauty packaging. I love their use of cute animals, colour and pattern.

// Source //

While its not really a creative stretching goal, it is a goal and a creative one! Lately I have been a little concerned with the air quality around our home, especially since I spend around 8 hours + on a computer and I am surrounded with wireless technology which I although I am a fan, not 100% sure of what it may be doing to me! One solution to help make a more healthy indoor environment is to include plants! I love this wall display designed by Hatch Creative, the vintage vessels and mismatch of flowers and would love to try a small plant collection in our workroom and consciously breathe a little easier.
So those are my goals for the next 3 weeks. I so hope I can achieve them and that I haven't been too ambitious. Feeling a little nervous already, but excited to start.

Gorgeous Sewing Supplies

noreply@blogger.com (Pattern Runway) — Tue, 14 Feb 2012 01:38:00 +0000

With its vintage nostalgic typography, minimal black, white and brown card, how could you not fall in love and immediately purchase this stylish Merchant and Mills Sewing Notions Set from Kaufmann Mercantile.

Not only am I sold on its striking packaging, but the tools themselves seem to be of a very high quality and fit well with my desired aesthetic of a black and white palette.
I'm also pretty excited about the beautiful black pins with gold heads, ooh too much excitement over here.

I also love the extra long Toilet Pins (think toilette not loo). I love a long pin and the description offers a wonderful snippet of the history of the pin as well as the best way to store your pins:

"Store these pins in their box, on a pin magnet or stuck into a pin cushion with a good quality filler — wool felt is best. A bad, grating filler will dull the point and wear away at the pin's polish. You might want to make sewing a proper pin cushion (with trusty fillings) your first project". Quoted from Website

After finding the Actual Merchant & Mills website they also have a whole lot more of delightful products to adorn and service your sewing room, check out their labels to turn any can into a pattern weight.

With eyes wide Open...

noreply@blogger.com (Pattern Runway) — Thu, 19 Jan 2012 03:26:00 +0000

Dear friends, I wanted to tell you about an experience I had that has changed my life forever. Its a bit of a serious issue but one that needs much much more attention.

In 2010 I attended my first ever Colour Conference and had my eyes opened to another world. A world where people are commodities and bought and sold like nothing more that a used car. 27 million people are currently victims of Human Slavery. 1.39 million woman, currently enslaved as sex salves in Europe alone. As the stories were told, the statistics delivered and the horror and enormity of the situation unfolded, I sobbed in my seat, sick to my stomach and eventually was able to lift my jaw off the floor. The emotion was part the realisation to my blindness of this huge injustice and the horror that for some girls, this is their reality. Every number a name, a family and future. Someones sister, daughter, best friend. While the statistics are numbing and devastating, hope and determination filled the room as stories were told of amazing rescues and an opportunity offered, that yes we can make a difference and yes we can be the change.

“What took you so long?”, a passionate, even angry statement uttered by a recent rescued victim, is as fresh in my mind now in 2012 as when I first heard it in 2010. Bold and frank, this statement hit me like a slap in the face. The realisation dawning that She is waiting on us and her future is in our hands.

The idea for Pattern Runway was conceived shortly after the conference with the hope that just maybe I could contribute somehow in making a difference, however small or seemingly insignificant, just might help one day in rescuing someone and changing her future for ever. Although I am aware that it has taken me 2 years to take action, of that I am rather ashamed and I am asking myself “What took me so long?”.

January 12 2012, was Human Trafficking Awareness day and the A21 campaign are setting aside 10 days, January 11- 21 with 21 ways that you can make a difference. I encourage you to check it out, open your heart, listen to the stories and if nothing else, be aware of the huge injustice that exists and let hope rise in your heart that you can make a difference.

Thanks for reading this post, if you were like me and didn’t realize this injustice, I hope you haven’t minded learning a little bit about it, and I encourage you to check out the links to the A21 campaign. To those of you who are already aware, my question to you is what are we going to do about it? Together I'm sure we can do something, love to hear any ideas or thoughts.

with love...

{New Pattern} One Shouldered Bow Party Dress

noreply@blogger.com (Pattern Runway) — Wed, 21 Dec 2011 04:58:00 +0000

This lovely digital PDF dress pattern has just been finished and is ready for sewing! One shouldered with gorgeous a draped front, and a pleated bow that tops off the shoulder. This dress includes bust and back contour darts to give a flattering fit with the neckline and hem, finished with facings.
We found it pretty quick to sew up too.

The One shouldered PDF Dress pattern is available for purchasing direct from the website and you'll receive an instant download too, even if I'm sleeping!

This pattern includes detailed instructions, pattern and "How to" print and tile.
Purchase here for $9.50 (USD)

{Inspire:} Party Dress

noreply@blogger.com (Pattern Runway) — Mon, 05 Dec 2011 03:31:00 +0000

I found this gorgeous dress wandering on Pinterest the other day and thought that our Easy Short Sleeved Kimono Dress pattern could be very easily adapted into this style. Heres how:

How to alter the Skirt:
Back Skirt: trace off the skirt pattern and lengthen the Skirt to floor length (plus hem allowance),
Front Skirt: Right side Front create a copy of the lengthened back skirt and draw a vertical line approx 1/3 of the way across the skirt to create the split. Cut these out then retrace each piece and add on an allowance to create a fold back facing of each side of the split, which you could hand hem. I would allow for the same amount for the facing as you allow for your hem.

Sequined Skirt:
Front and Back Skirt: Trace off another copy of the skirt pattern and shorten to mid thigh length (Plus hem allowance)

Pattern is available for purchase by clicking here

The Journey less Travelled...

noreply@blogger.com (Pattern Runway) — Mon, 05 Dec 2011 03:06:00 +0000

By less travelled I mean neglect, this project and blog has been suffering. Let me explain. I have this terrible habit of saying "yes" when I mean no, “sure, I can do that”, when really I’m not interested, and “I’d love to help out”, when really I would rather do my own thing. Does anyone else do this?

It isn’t that I’m being dishonest by these answers, I truly can and would want to help you out its just that every time I say yes to a project, the realisation of my goals for Pr gets further and further away.

Part of it is a fear of missing out of an opportunity, a fear of taking my own dreams and vision seriously and a fear of choosing to walk the unexplored, unseen path over a tangible seen (usually easier) project that has a clearly seen end in sight. So my new word is no. Just a little word that for me holds a lot of creative freedom.

So with some fresh new goals defined, here is a renewed commitment to inspiring you to sew, offering support through techniques and alternations you can do yourself and of course offering a selection of fashion patterns. I hope that you stay with me as the vision for Pr unfolds and we see just what this little blog and pattern store can be.

–Sarah

Printed Pattern: Easy Kimono Dress

noreply@blogger.com (Pattern Runway) — Mon, 10 Oct 2011 02:53:00 +0000

Dear Friends, a few people have been asking for there to be a printed pattern available for the Easy Short Sleeved Kimono Dress and I am so pleased and excited to be able to offer to you the first printed pattern!

Pattern includes printed Pattern and instructions, all in an envelope and we will ship anywhere!

UPDATE: July 2012- We are currently out of stock of the Printed Version, we definitely still can supply our digital PDF pattern in both print at home and Print at Copy shop option, Please message me for details, :)

If you would still prefer the printed version, we'd love to hear from you and if we get enough interest, we'll be sure to do another print run! Thanks so much for your interest!

{How to:} Sew a Single Welt Pocket (with pocket bag)

noreply@blogger.com (Pattern Runway) — Fri, 23 Sep 2011 03:05:00 +0000

Hi Sewing Friends, at long last here is the tutorial for sewing the welt pockets with pocket bag that are in the Sweet scalloped shorts pattern. If you’d like to follow along and create your own example ( I recommend this if you haven’t sewn a welt before) download the welt pattern pieces here.

This welt pocket tutorial also makes use of a backing, (cut from the main fabric) inside the pocket bag so that should the welt pocket gape at all, the main garment fabric is visible not the pocket lining! Most home sewing patterns don't include this backing and you can leave it out and just use the pocket Bag lining, but I think the backing adds a really nice professional touch.

Its an extra step but makes your pocket all the nicer for sneaking your hands in! You could also try cutting the Pocket Bag in a cute bright print or contrast colour to add a sweet detail to your garment!

Equipment needed:

Welt Pattern Pieces
Fabric Scraps
Lightweight Fusing, (preferably whisper weft fusing)
Sewing Machine
Erasable Fabric Marker, (Can use pen or pencil, tailors chalk, etc)
Pins
Iron
Scissors

You will need to cut 1 welt, 1 x Welt Backing, 1 x Pocket Bag (please note the pattern for this tutorial is slightly different from the shorts pattern) and will also need a scrap of fabric to attach your welt too. I suggest that you use a light weight 100% cotton for this tutorial, nothing slippery or stretchy!

Welt:
1. On the right side of fabric (or garment) mark in your welt pocket placement with a 12cm line.

2. Apply the fusing to the wrong side of the fabric, covering the welt markings.

Transfer markings to Pocket welt and apply fusing to the wrong side of the welt. I find it easier to rule a line in chalk for the start and end points.

Fold Welt in half, wrong sides together and Press.
Align welt with the markings on your fabric. If on a garment, make sure that the raw edge of the welt, face the top of the garment, so that when it is turned, the folded edge will be the right way up.

Stitch welt to the fabric, along the markings, making sure to stop and start exactly on those markings.

Welt Backing:
Press over 6mm / 1/4" along one long edge. This edge will be the edge inside the Pocket Bag.

Place the Backing on top of the Welt (wrong side up), alining the raw edge (not the pressed over edge) with the stitching line of the welt.

Stitch a line parallel 1.2cm away from the first row of stitching, Stitching lines must start and end at exactly the same point, otherwise the pocket welt will not turn well. Re-stitch until both lines match perfectly.

From the wrong side, Cut between stitching lines leaving 2cm / ¾” from either edge. (Please note: sample has been turned around to photograph the stitching more clearly).

Cut a “Y” at either end snipping very close to the stitching line but not through it. You want to have good sized triangle to sew through, so do make sure you leave at least a 2cm / ¾" from either end.

Turn the welt, and gently push the backing through the slash.

Press welt from the topside. Use a Pressing Cloth.
To create a nice crisp fold line at the base of the welt, I also press open the underneath seams before pressing flat.

Working from the right side of the sample, turn the fabric back to reveal the backing edge, welt, and the triangle wedge of the sample fabric.

Secure the welt by stitching the triangle wedge as close as possible to the fold, through all layers. Repeat on other side.

Attaching the Pocket Bag:

Working from the wrong side of the sample, place Pocket Bag over the Welt Backing, aligning the pocket bag’s un-notched raw edge with the Backing's edge.

Edgestitch Welt Backing along the pressed over edge, securing it to the Pocket bag.

Align the Pocket Bag notched raw edge ( the other edge) with lower welt raw edge, (folding the Pocket bag under and in half).

Stitch a 1cm/3/8” seam joining the Pocket Bag to the welt. Neaten edges. Press Pocket Bag in 1/2 along the dotted line and at the notches.

Stitch Pocket Bag sides together 1cm / 3/8” and neaten edges.

Stitch Pocket Bag to Welt Backing seam allowance to close off pocket. (Please note: if sewing the sweet scalloped shorts please see instructions there for the pocket bag as pocket bag in this tutorial slightly differs).

{Free Pattern} -Very Gathered Skirt

noreply@blogger.com (Pattern Runway) — Mon, 12 Sep 2011 02:54:00 +0000

Dear friends, we have a lovely free pattern available, sign up to our mailing list to receive instant download.
Click here to sign up!

Shift Dress Pattern with 3 Sleeve options:

noreply@blogger.com (Pattern Runway) — Thu, 04 Aug 2011 06:38:00 +0000

Just finished this lovely dress pattern!
An easy, relaxed fit shift dress with a bound neckline, nice deep hem, exposed zipper at centre back and 3 sleeve options!
View A - (This is the one pictured) is a lose fit bangle length sleeve that has a shorter tab, rouching the sleeve up at the elbow with a covered button.
View B - Short elbow length fitted sleeve,
View C - Bangle length sleeve that is gathered into a cuff with a placket and button!

Super comfortable to wear and versatile too.

As always, pattern comes complete with all seam and hem allowances and step by step instructions.

Get this print at home pattern and instructions in your inbox for $9.50 (USD).
Click the Buy Now Flag below to pay and check out via PayPal.

*After you click Buy Now, you can enter your paypal or credit card information. Once that is entered and processed you will receive an email with your pattern and instructions attached. Please allow 24 hours for emails to reach your inbox. Mostly it will be much much quicker than that!
Make sure you enter which email address you desire your purchase to be sent to, in the box provided at paypal checkout otherwise all corrospondance will be to your paypal address.

Of course it is avaible via my online shops at Etsy and Made it.

{How To:} Neaten your seams like 3.1 Philip Lim

noreply@blogger.com (Pattern Runway) — Fri, 22 Jul 2011 03:28:00 +0000

On a recent trip to Sydney I was "researching" the amazing designer ready to wear as I am always interested in the construction and finishing techniques that the high end designers employ with the aim to replicate that level of quality in my own sewing. I was investigating the construction of this beautiful dress by 3.1 Philip Lim and was really taken by the attention to the seam neatening! Unfortunately I didn't have my camera with me to capture it, and my calico sample does not do it justice!

I have seen this type of seam finish documented in several sewing books but having never seen it in the flesh, just never knew how lovely it really is and the lovely quality it adds to your garment.

This seam neatening technique is called a "clean finish" or a "turn and stitch" and is suitable for medium to lightweight fabrics.

Its a great one if you don't have an overlocker and don't wish to zig zag over your seam edges.
There are two techniques to construct this seam finish depending on the type of fabric. The first is just a simple turning of the raw edge and edge stitiching. For really lightweight and sheer fabrics that fray easily create the turn over with a rolled hem foot, that creates a double fold, enclosing the raw egde.

The Philip Lim example was a lightweight silk and they had employed the first technique. I also noticed this finish on a Camilla and Marc sheer silk georgette top where they had used a rolled hem foot to create the double turn.

Here's the How To:

Technique 1: (minimum seam allowances required 1cm / 3/8")

1. Stitch your seam using the correct seam allowance on your pattern.

2. Press the seam open.

3. Either Press or if the fabric is sturdy enough finger-press 3-6mm ( 1/8" / 1/4") of the seam allowance back under and towards the seam.

Edgestitch along the fold. I aligned the folded edge with the center notch on the presser foot, then adjusted the needle position to stitch nice and close to the folded edge.

4. Repeat on the other seam edge and Press open.

This calico sample does not do it justice! Try in on a lovely silk dress or sweet skirt.

Technique 2 : for sheers and fabrics that fray easily,
(minimum seam allowances required 1.5 cm / 5/8" )

Follow Steps 1 & 2 above,

3. Attach a narrow Rolled hemmer foot to your machine. This little gem of a foot will perform a professional narrow stitched double fold suitable for hemming lightweight fabrics or hems on frills and gathers,

4. Stitch a rolled hem with the wrong side up of your seam. Use the instructions that came with the foot or check out this helpful tutorial.

5. Repeat on the other side of the seam and press flat.

{How To:} Sew the Easy Kimono short sleeved Dress Pattern

noreply@blogger.com (Pattern Runway) — Sun, 05 Jun 2011 23:52:00 +0000

The Easy Kimono Short sleeved Dress Pattern is great for beginners, with no zips or tricky techniques, just basic sewing skills. This tutorial is to support our beginner sewers and show you through photos, step by step how to create it!
Get the pattern from either of my online boutiques: Madeit or Etsy.
Cutting Out:

I like to give my fabric a quick press before cutting out, and also check it for any imperfections. I also recommend washing all your fabric and trims before sewing to take out any shrinkage that can occur.

Fold your fabric in half, lengthwise. With the rightside of the fabric in the inside, align the selvages of the fabric. The selvage is the edge of the fabric that runs along either edge of the fabric roll. This edge prevents the fabric from unravelling.

Insert pins along the selvages and fold, at right angles to keep the fabric flat and straight.

I use a long ruler to align the edges of the fabric, so that the grain of the fabric is straight along the length of the fabric. You could also use the edge of your cutting or sewing table. If you are using a particularly slippery and drapey fabric, use two rulers. One across the width of the fabric at right angles to the straight edge to make sure that the grain is evenly distributed and straight.

Using the cutting guides included in the pattern, select the right diagram by the choosing the correct pattern size and width of your fabric, lay your pattern on the fabric replicating the cutting guide.

For pattern pieces on the fold, ensure that the fold of the fabric is straight and lines up perfectly with your pattern edge. Pin along the fold first, before pinning the corners and edges.

For pattern pieces not on the fold, align the grain-line of the pattern, parallel with the selvage or fold of your fabric.
Measure the distance at each end of the grain-line to ensure that the grain-line is perfectly matched to the straight grain of the fabric. If the pattern piece is out, even slightly, this can dramatically effect how the garment hangs on the figure.
Measure at either end.

Continue pinning all pieces on to your fabric and cut it out using good quality and sharp fabric scissors! Don't forget to clip into the fabric at the marked notches.

Sewing the Dress Bodice:
1. Back Bodice: With right sides together, matching notches and raw edges place back bodices together and stitch the centre back seam, starting at the notch, sew down to the waist with a 1cm / 3/8” seam.

Clip into the seam allowance at the notch, right to but not through the stitching.

Neaten edges separately from the notch down and press seams open.

Shoulder Seams:
Place Front bodice over Back bodice right sides together and match up the shoulders. Align notches and raw edges.
Stitch each shoulder seam with a 1cm / 3/8” seam.

Because the pattern has a slight point at the end of the shoulder seam (this is to assist in the seams and facing lying flat, once facing is turned to the inside) it is easier and you get a better result if you sew to where the point begins, lower the needle and leave in the fabric, then raise the presser foot, and pivot the fabric so that the raw edges of the point is lying inline with your seam guides on your machine. Lower the presser foot and continue to sew to the end.

Use this technique to sew the shoulder and underarm seams of the facings also.

Neaten edges together and press towards the back of the garment. To help seams to lie flat, when sewing on the facings, clip into the seam allowance just before the point.

3. Side Seams: Align the bodice side seams and stitch a 1cm / 3/8” seam on each side seam. Neaten edges together and press towards the back.

4. Armhole Facings: apply fusing to the wrong side of the armhole facings, as well as to the wrong side of front and back neck facing. Use a medium to low heat (depending on fabric) and use an up and down, pressing motion with the iron not a back and forth motion.

With right sides together join the shoulder and under arm seams of the armhole facing by stitching a 1cm / 3/8” seam and using the pivoting technique discussed earlier to create a sharp and accurate seam. Clip in to the seam allowance as on bodice.

Neaten edges separately and Press seams open on facings to reduce bulk at the seams.

Turn dress bodice right side out. With armhole facings wrong side out, place facings over dress armhole opening, matching all seams and raw edges. Stitch a 1cm / 3/8” seam all the way round the armhole opening.

Trim seam allowance to 6mm / ¼”. Clip into curves if necessary to help facing to turn easily.

Turn facing out and press seam allowances into the facing.

Trim corners of seam allowances on a diagonal to reduce the bulk and assist in facing lying flat.

On the right side of the facing, understitch, through all seam allowances, close to the seam. Understitching is a straight stitch, sewn on facings and pocket linings, sewn close to the seam and catching the seam allowances underneath. It assists in keeping the facing to the inside of the garment, preventing it from rolling to the front.

Neaten the lower edge of the armhole facings and press facing to the inside of the armhole.

Secure the facing to the inside by pining facing at both shoulder and underarm seams and stitching a tack from the right side of the garment at the base of the facing, right in the seam. Stitch about 3 stitches and backtack.

Neck Facing:
Join back neck pieces together at the centre back seam, with right sides together matching notches and raw edges, Stitch a 1cm / 3/8” seam from the notch down to the lower edge. Clip into the seam allowance at the notch, right to but not through the stitching. Neaten edges separately and press open.

Join back neck facing to front neck facing by placing front facing over back facing right sides together and align shoulders. Stitch the shoulders with a 1cm / 3/8” seam, neaten edges separately and press open.

Rouleau Loop: with right sides together, fold loop in half, lengthwise and sew a 1cm / 3/8” seam.

Trim allowance to 6mm / ¼”.

Turn right side out, by threading a needle with thread, stitching a couple of stitches through one layer of fabric at one end and tunneling the needle (without catching any fabric) through the tube. Pull needle through to pull rouleau loop right side out.

Trim loop to 5.5cm / 2 1/8”. Fold in ½, and place at the notch on the right side of the back bodice neck. Stitch to secure just shy of 1cm / 3/8”.

With the dress bodice turned right side out, place neck facing on to bodice, right sides together, matching seams and raw edges.

Stitch a 1cm / 3/8” seam from the clipped notch at center back keyhole opening up and around the back and front neck to the other notch.

Trim allowance to 6mm / ¼” and clip into curves (if necessary) to assist turning. Trim corners on a diagonal to reduce bulk.

Press seams up into the facing. Understitch neck facing starting and finishing just before and after the center back seam. You won’t be able to stitch right up to the center back opening.

Turn facing to inside the garment and press.

Secure facing to inside by tacking facing at the shoulder seams in the same way as you tacked the armhole facings.

Skirt:

Join front and back skirt together at the side seams by placing right sides together and aligning raw edges. Stitch a 1cm /3/8” seam. Neaten edges together. Decide and mark on the wrong side of skirt, which will be the back. Press seams towards the back.

Hem:

Press over 1cm / 3/8” , then press up 8 cm / 3 1/8”, Topstitch.

Joining skirt to bodice:

Turn skirt wrong side out and place bodice inside skirt, right sides together. Match side seams and raw edges of the waist seam. Stitch waist seam with a 1cm / 3/8” seam. Neaten edges together.

Elastic waist:

Cut 6mm / ¼” elastic to stated sizes below:

SIZE XXS: 57cm
SIZE XS: 62cm
SIZE S: 67cm
SIZE M: 72cm
SIZE L: 77cm

Overlap elastic ends 2cm / ¾” and join together with a narrow zigzag stitch.

Fold elastic in ½ and insert pins to mark. Fold in ½ other way and mark again with pins.

Find the center of the front and back by folding in half and matching seams, place pins at centre.

Place elastic over waist seam of dress and match pins of elastic with centres and side seams of the dress waist.

Stitch elastic over the top of the waist seam with a straight stitch, pulling and stretching the elastic to bring in the fullness between pin marks.

Cover a button in matching or contrasting fabric and sew onto the left back bodice neck. Give your lovely new dress a good final pressing and wear it out!

{INSPIRE:} Some pretty for your day

noreply@blogger.com (Pattern Runway) — Tue, 24 May 2011 00:48:00 +0000

~ All images from www.ad-tg.com

Easy Short Sleeved Kimono Dress ~ Great for beginner Sewers

noreply@blogger.com (Pattern Runway) — Tue, 17 May 2011 05:55:00 +0000

Easy to sew, quick to create, flattering and versatile!
This short sleeved kimono dress with an elastic waist, features a simple keyhole opening at the back neck and a deep turned up hem that finishes a couple of inches above the knee.
A suitable pattern for beginner sewers as there are no zips or tricky techniques.
Looks great with a skinny belt at the waist and would be super cute in a bright summery floral.

Pattern is available from either of my online stores: Etsy and Made it. As always, pattern comes complete with all seam and hem allowances and step by step instructions. Look out for a photographed step by step on how to sew this dress.

Inspire ~ Sneak peak at what's inspiring the next pattern designs...

noreply@blogger.com (Pattern Runway) — Fri, 06 May 2011 04:27:00 +0000

Dresses! Dresses and more dresses, planning for some very easy to sew, whip up in a couple of hours pieces, that are fashionable and charming! A wee touch of lace trims, maybe the odd pleat here and there, soft gathers and drapes and a whole lotta pretty!

{Project} ~ Rosette Bib Necklace

noreply@blogger.com (Pattern Runway) — Wed, 04 May 2011 02:35:00 +0000

This post is in no way original! Fabric rosettes and necklaces have been doing the rounds in blogging sphere in a big way. You only have to google "Bib necklace" to find an array of D.I.Y tutorials and blog posts devoted to this project. Its a little bit crafty and a little bit shabby chic, but... its popularity in no way diminishes the desirability of this delightfully sweet, simple and fashionable adornment.

~ How to create a Fabric Rosette:

Cut a strip of fabric about 1.5"/ 3cm wide and about 50cm /20" long. The longer the fabric the bigger the flower. Tie a knot in one end and trim off the end close to the knot.

Tuck the knot back on its self and begin to roll the fabric around it, turning and twisting the fabric strip in, towards the centre of the flower.

Keep rolling, turing and twisting. Use a little dab of fabric glue every now and then to secure the fabric twists, or you could hand sew them too! I tried both gluing and sewing, and found using glue much quicker, easier and less fidely!

When you have a flower of desired size, twist the fabric strip to the underneath of the fabric, trim off and glue to the flower base and make another one! Sew a couple of beads in the centre of your flowers!

~ How to make the necklace:

Once you have made several flowers of different sizes, arrange you flowers on a piece of paper in a bib like shape.

Draw around your flowers to make a pattern that you will use to cut out of felt for the backing of your necklace. Keeping your flowers in the same arrangement, slide the paper out and trim your pattern by at least 6mm / 1/4" so that no Felt will be visible from the front.

Place your pattern on your felt, draw around it and cut it out. Ball point pen is the easiest medium to glide over the felt.

Fabric Ties:

Place an end of your ribbon tie about 2" / 5cm on the felt and glue down using fabric glue. Repeat for the other side.

Dab glue on underneath of your flowers and press heavily on to the felt. I also dabbed a small amount of glue between the flowers to help stabilize the necklace. Tie a bow at either end or knot the ribbon ties to help it lie flat and your done! Ta dah!

Heres the view from the back:

~ Enjoy,

Gathered Sundress ~ Pattern

noreply@blogger.com (Pattern Runway) — Fri, 29 Apr 2011 02:24:00 +0000

Well after much finessing and perfecting, this vintage inspired, Gathered Sundress Pattern is finished and ready to supply to you! Just in time for that weekend sewing project!... it's perfect for a weekend brunch or afternoon tea.

This sweet wee frock has a fitted lined bodice, gathered full skirt that falls to the knee and sweet curved pockets.

For my sample I drew emphasis to the necklines and edges by making my own piping, and inserting it into the seams, but this dress would look stunning without it too!

Pattern available from my online boutique: Etsy and as always includes full step by step instructions. I do recommend you invest in an invisible zipper foot for this dress.

More sweet dress patterns will be making an appearance here soon...

{Sneak Peak} - New dress coming soon...

noreply@blogger.com (Pattern Runway) — Thu, 14 Apr 2011 02:18:00 +0000