While she was filling out the paperwork, I asked if she had used the new Clinical version (Clinique salespeople typically get new products in advance so they can use them before they’re sold to the public). “Oh yes,” she said. “In fact, I’m surprised at how fast it worked to lighten some dark patches on my cheek. They’ve already faded in less than two weeks! I keep looking at where the spots used to be and wonder if I’m imagining the improvement!” I told her that her skin looked great but noted she was wearing enough foundation to hide minor discolorations. In turn, she asked me if I had used their existing Even Better (non-clinical) product, the one that launched about a year ago. I said I had tried it but didn’t notice any results that made continued use worth it (hey, why not be honest?).

After my admission she happily exclaimed, “Yes, the original Even Better didn’t work all that well for most people. That’s why Clinique created Even Better Clinical! It works much faster on discolorations than the original version and has lots more antioxidants!” Her comment about the original correlates with our review of this product (though I’m sure when the original version launched she wasn’t sharing this with her customers). We stated the 0.5% salicylic acid was too low and the pH of 4.4 too high to permit exfoliation to occur. Exfoliation can definitely help improve skin tone and assist with fading discolorations, but Clinique’s Even Better wasn’t good enough.

I asked the Consultant if the original Even Better (which I noticed still lining the shelves behind her) was going to be discontinued. “No, at least not yet. Clinique doesn’t want to disappoint the people that like this product, and, you know, it hasn’t been around that long—it would look odd if we suddenly took it away.” What an admission.

Long pause. “But wait,” I said. “Didn’t you just tell me that Even Better Clinical works much faster and is, for all intents and purposes, a much better formula than the original?” Her response was, as expected, “Yes.” With a confused look on my face, I asked, “But you’re still going to sell the one that doesn’t work that well?” She nodded. “OK,” I said, “but I’m still confused….who wouldn’t want the version that lightens their dark spots faster?” This assumes, of course, that the new Clinical version really does have a better formula than the original.

At that point, all she could do was hand me my pre-order receipt, smile, and move on to the next customer. It was so odd. I knew she agreed with me, that my logic wasn’t lost on her, but she really didn’t have a plausible explanation as to why the company is keeping an inferior version of their product around. She also couldn’t explain why the new version works better; instead, she just stated that it did. It’s true that some Clinique customers may like the original version of Even Better, but why not train the Consultants to sell them on the benefits of the (allegedly) improved formula? If anything, it seems Clinique agreed with our original assessment of Even Better’s inability to improve skin tone and discolorations; otherwise, why launch a new version so soon?

“So what’s your favorite product? You know, the one product that you couldn’t live without?”

I hesitated. Perhaps it was being put on the spot, but I honestly couldn’t think of one. I managed to evade the question long enough for her to launch into her own exaltation of mineral makeup (really?), but her question—and my lack of an answer—got me thinking.

So when I returned home I surveyed my makeup. Sure, there are several products that I love deeply: M.A.C.’s Powder Blush in Dame, Prescriptives’ MotorEyes Mascara, Paula’s Choice Constant Color Gel Eyeliner in Earthen, Cover Girl’s Sassy Mauve Outlast Lipstain. But none of these products, no matter how much I adore them, no matter how often I use them, could really be called my “you-complete-me” product. And then, I glimpsed my brushes.

As I reached for them, it hit me: I love my brushes. They are the one indispensible part of my makeup routine. It doesn’t matter how exquisite the eyeshadow, how silky the powder — without my brushes, I may as well not even bother. They’re the only aspect of my makeup that is truly irreplaceable, and that’s why I treat them with lavish care. Every Sunday night as I get ready for the week ahead, I wash my brushes and lay them out to dry for their Monday morning call. Sometimes during the week, I pat them lovingly, or brush them against my face just to feel their softness.

I have a complete (and then some) set of professional-quality brushes that I’ve pieced together over time, but within that set, there are a few that I simply cannot live without. My Trish McEvoy #32 Eyebrow Brush and #21 Large Laydown (I have big eyes that really appreciate the brush’s fullness); Paula’s Choice Eyeliner Brush (it’s tiny and perfect for subtle-lining of lower lids); and my Bare Escentuals Full Coverage Kabuki (at first this was quite bristly, but over time it’s opened up and softened remarkably). These are brushes that I absolutely rely on to make me beautiful every day, no matter what product I’m applying.

But my baby, my little sweetie of a brush has to be Trish McEvoy’s Powder Blush Brush. It’s so dense that it always picks up just enough powder, and is cut in such a way that glides right under my cheekbone. The best part – and I honestly cannot say this about any other cosmetic product – is that I literally get happier every time I reach to use it. Now out of everything that a makeup product can do for you, what could be more beautiful than that?

You may have seen recent media reports that a study in the very proper British Journal of Dermatology revealed that using Olay’s Pro-X products improves wrinkles just as well as prescription tretinoin (the active ingredient in the topical medications Renova, Retin-A, etc.). The big deal being made is that Olay Pro-X, a “non-prescription brand” that’s readily available, has come up with an anti-wrinkle skin-care routine that can be considered “as effective as the leading wrinkle brand regimen at half the price”. And they’re guaranteeing it, too, which only confirms how much faith they have in the results (but these days, who doesn’t guarantee their products?).

The study was the comparative type, and involved 196 women between the ages of 40–65. Half of the participants used Olay Pro-X products and the others used a cream containing 0.02% tretinoin. The majority of participants used the products for 8 weeks, at which time the results were tabulated. The headline conclusion was that in just 8 weeks, the Pro-X routine worked just as well as tretinoin. But wait, there’s more…

On the surface, the results sound very impressive, but before you speed to your local Walgreens or Rite Aid to fill your basket with all things Pro-X, consider this: the study, like so many things in life, has critical fine print that cannot be ignored.

Here’s what Olay states in their ads and on the company’s Olay Professional Web site, “The prescription [meaning tretinoin] takes 24 weeks to see full results and longer term comparative results may be different”. So after all the hype, Olay’s study really just showed that Pro-X isn’t as effective as tretinoin because, as it seems, they published results prematurely.

We know tretinoin can take 24 weeks (6 months) of consistent use for positive results, and that the results continue to improve the longer a person uses tretinoin. Olay must know this too, or they wouldn’t have the fine print disclaimer needed to meet the standards of the journal this study was published in.

Interestingly, they mention that a small number of women in the study continued their regimens for an additional 16 weeks, meaning they used either Pro-X or tretinoin for a total of six months. The results? Only that “both groups continued to improve” and that the overall wrinkle reduction was 20%, but they didn’t indicate if the women using tretinoin had even better results (I am betting they did). Wouldn’t it be great to speak to some of the women who participated in this study? I wonder how many of them are still using Pro-X?

All of your comments were thoughtful, insightful, flattering, humbling, and truthful. Most of all they stimulated a meaningful contemplation of what my business is all about.

My marketing team and I have spent quite a bit of time discussing what you have contributed. It has brought a keen understanding of how those of you who shop Paula’s Choice, read my books, or use Beautypedia.com experience what we have created.

After reading all of your absorbing and fascinating comments, I think I can sum up my company and life’s work like this:

Paula’s Choice is a specialized range of skin care and makeup products I formulated after 32 years of research and writing 18 books analyzing the facts about skin care and makeup products.

Because my only mission is to help you find the best products to take care of your skin I am the only cosmetics company in the world that recommends products other than my own.

Come visit us at PaulasChoice.com and find out what you are missing!

This type of product isn’t anything new. Estee Lauder’s defunct Prescriptives brand offered a version of this product years ago in their Magic line, Lancome had their Touche Optimage Line Blurring Concentrate, and Lauder-owned Good Skin (sold at Kohl’s department stores) sells TriAktiline Instant Deep Wrinkle Filler. All of these are silicone-based serum-like products that serve as a soft spackle for wrinkles and large pores. You pat the product into and over creases, and they have a superficial, temporary filling effect. How long results last depend on the formula and, more critically, how expressive you are. And of course, none of these products have even a fractional ability to work like Botox or dermal fillers, but that’s another story.

We’re about to review this new Perfectionist product on Beautypedia, and although we don’t typically try products before we review them (we prefer to focus on the ingredient list, product claims, and research rather than personal experience which doesn’t help thousands of women know what really works) I decided to give this a go. At age 36, I have some minor lines around my eyes and wanted to see how Perfectionist would work to “push up” my wrinkles, as the copy on the packaging reads.

I followed the directions provided and dispensed a small amount of this wrinkle filler into my lines, gently patting to smooth the excess. This filler has a texture that is very much like spackle, so I instantly felt like I was doing some serious patchwork under the bright lights of my bathroom. Perfectionist feels supremely silky and sets quickly to a soft, powder-like matte finish laced with subtle sparkles, which I didn’t care for. The filling effect was impressive. It really did a good job of smoothing superficial lines—definitely better than my usual moisturizer.

Here’s the part where things started to go downhill. I reasoned that most women using this product are likely to apply it before makeup. After all, why bother with the cosmetic effect of filling lines right before going to sleep? You want your lines to be less apparent during the day, right? So once Perfectionist had set, I pulled out a Lauder foundation and applied it around the eyes. Imagine my surprise when the makeup looked TERRIBLE over the area where Perfectionist was applied. Lauder’s liquid foundation looked patchy and, as the day went by the skin around my eyes looked cracked and crepy—Perfectionist + foundation actually made me look older! How depressing is that?

Back at the office, I tried several other foundations over the Perfectionist Wrinkle Filler. Any liquid or cream-to-powder foundation with any type of silicone in it didn’t look good. In fact, the combination made wrinkles and even minor lines more apparent. When I applied a silicone-free foundation (Laura Mercier’s Oil-Free) over Perfectionist, the result was great. This combination kept the lines filled while actually allowing the foundation to look better than it does when used alone. The problem is that the majority of foundations, concealers, and most tinted moisturizers sold today contain one or more forms of silicone. You shouldn’t have to give up your favorite foundation or concealer in order to experience the benefits (however temporary) Perfectionist offers.

Oddly enough, the aforementioned TriAktiline Instant Deep Wrinkle Filler from Lauder-owned Good Skin works beautifully with foundations and concealers that contain silicone.

One more comment: Lauder isn’t known for offering fragrance-free skin-care products, and Perfectionist is no exception. After a few days of applying this product around my eyes, I experienced stinging and tenderness on my skin and in my eyes. Both issues went away as soon as I stopped using this product, which has a much stronger scent than what anyone should be applying so close to their eyes (and what woman who purchases this product to fill wrinkles isn’t going to try it around her eyes?)

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Lately I’ve received a series of emails from readers that leave me shaking my head at the audacity some of these cosmetic companies have. These women who write to us have the best intentions of finding products that work for them, but they’re increasingly up against some of the most ridiculous claims and prices we’ve ever seen. I wasn’t a bit surprised when I explored some of the products these women were intensely curious about…and found out that they were terrible in most respects. Good thing they checked with us first, but imagine all of those who don’t and wind up financially and emotionally down when the wow-factor claims don’t show up in the mirror. One more reason why, as Paula states, “You need a Cosmetics Cop!”

 But back to these emails I field daily…the more I thought about it, the more I couldn’t put my finger on why even well-informed, Paula-educated consumers still get curious about products with miraculous claims and stratospheric prices. For example, one of the messages asked about a serum with placental enzymes that cost $200 for an ounce. Not only was the price outrageous, but the formula, quite frankly, sucked. Alcohol was a major ingredient, and it contained irritating plant extracts, too. Of course, placental enzymes (which come from animals, not people) have no effect on skin, but that’s fodder for another blog. This woman must’ve felt that the price and claims added up to something special, because she honestly wanted to know if this serum was worth abandoning the one she normally uses from Paula’s Choice. That’s a hard question for me because after reviewing thousands of products, I know the value of our formulations but at the very least if a woman is going to make a change it should be for the better, not for worse. 

I know women are always looking for the best products. They always want to know if some secret ingredient or formula really exists. The perpetual lure of advertising and dollar signs makes us second-guess ourselves. Is the grass really greener if only we spend a lot more money? With so many products vying for our attention, it’s easy to let our hopeful human nature to take over regardless of how much it costs. That’s not the most rational or pragmatic approach, but in the midst of seeing things we don’t like about our appearance (wrinkles, sagging skin, discolorations) who isn’t tempted to ignore reality and wish for the fantasy? I imagine many women, despite being consistently disappointed by products that don’t work as claimed, remain hopeful because of the boost they get from feeling as if they are doing something to address their appearance. It may not be the best thing and it may cost much more than it realistically should, but simply making the effort and refusing to give up has to count for something, right?

What do you think? Are my theories spot-on or did I completely miss the mark? As cosmetics consumers, how vulnerable are all of us to fantastic claims coupled with jaw-dropping prices?

I thoroughly searched Sally Hansen’s website and that of their parent company Coty, Inc. to find some information about the brand—for instance, who is Sally Hansen? Why is she so focused on nail care? How did the company come to be a drugstore mainstay?—and was coming up with zilch. I couldn’t find any information, not even when it was founded and by whom—basic stuff that almost all cosmetic brands put on their websites. Even a search on Wikipedia and Google yielded no results. So I opted to call Sally Hansen’s customer service, explaining that I was doing some research on the brand and wanted to know some background history. Here’s how that conversation transpired:

Me: Hi! I’m doing some research and I was wondering if you could tell me a little bit about the Sally Hansen brand. Who is Sally Hansen? How did the company originate? Or can you put me in touch with someone who might know?

SH: Sure! I can direct you to our website. All that information is available on SallyHansen.com.

Me: Actually, I started there, and there’s no “About Us” info on your site at all. Or if it is there, I’m just not seeing it.

SH: Then it should be on Coty.com.

Me: I tried there too, but Sally Hansen isn’t even listed as one of Coty’s affiliate brands. That’s why I thought I’d give you a call.

SH: Well, I guess that site hasn’t been updated in awhile! Can you please hold?

*TEN MINUTES PASS*

SH: Sorry for the long delay. I can tell you that Sally Hansen wasn’t actually a real person, and all the other company history information we have is available at SallyHansen.com.

Me: Okay, that’s helpful. But I’m just not seeing where that information is on your site. Can you tell me the tab you clicked on or the URL of what you’re looking at?

SH: Did you click on Contact Us or Customer Service?

Me: Yes, I’m looking at that page now.

SH: All the company information is listed there.

Me: But there’s nothing there.

SH: Well, then, I’m told that’s all the information we have.

Me: So all the information you have is no information?

SH: Yes, all the information we have is listed there.

Me: But have you looked at the page? There’s nothing there. It’s only the customer service phone number and an email address.

SH: Well, you should send your inquiry via email and someone can get back to you.

Me: Great! Which department receives those emails?

SH: This department. Customer Service.

Me: But aren’t I talking to you now? How would emailing you help?

*EXTREMELY AWKWARD SILENCE*

Me: Thank you for your time.

*CLICK*

So, dear readers, after all that, all I know for sure is that Sally Hansen wasn’t actually a real person. Whether or not that accounts for the company’s gaps in their employees’ logic and the staggering lack of background information they give their customers, I can’t say. But in my experience this kind of doublespeak and nonsense at the customer service level doesn’t bode well for how their products will stand up to Paula’s scrutiny. Either way, look for those reviews on Beautypedia soon!

It’s silly for me to not just say from the get-go that I own a cosmetics company because, as usual, this woman asked, “What kind of Internet company do you own?” I gulped and responded that I own a cosmetics company. She said, “Oh really, what kind of cosmetics?” I said, “A skin-care and makeup company.” She asked, “Whose products do you sell?” I answered, “I sell my own products, the formulas I developed.” Then, in understandably typical fashion she asked, “What kind of products are they?”, and that’s when I get stumped.

When a woman asks me what makes Paula’s Choice special or what kind of products I sell I know what she really wants me to say. I’m supposed to respond by saying my products are all natural, or organic, or herbal, or plant-based, or contain essential oils, or contain vitamins, or some miracle ingredient from some exotic locale that only I know about, and of course the products get rid of wrinkles, stop aging, work like Botox, or cure blackheads, or oily skin and on and on. Of course, I can’t say any of that. Aside from being completely useless, simplified, inane descriptions, none of those tidbits other cosmetic companies spew like a bad case of food poisoning have any basis in creating a superior or even decent skin-care routine.

So because I can’t use the same misleading information every woman is waiting to hear, I just sit there and say something like, “Well, they’re my formulations based on what the research says is good for skin.” That goes over like a lead balloon. Even I think it sounds dull and uninteresting.

Then it dawned on me in a recent meeting with my customer service team that no one in my company, not even me, can explain or has a concise understanding of what makes Paula’s Choice products unique, and they are absolutely unique. In fact, the more I thought about it, the more I realized they’re unparalleled in the world of skin care. I can say that confidently because I’ve reviewed thousands upon thousands of products, more than enough to know what’s brilliant and what’s terrible for skin. During that meeting the most outstanding thing happened: I finally grasped how to view and relate what my products are all about. Here it is:

Paula’s Choice is a range of skin-care products that work together synergistically in comprehensive skin-care systems to address a wide range of concerns including wrinkles, acne, oily skin, dry skin, rosacea, and sensitive skin. All of our formulations are state-of-the-art, based on published scientific research, designed to give skin exactly what it needs to be as beautiful and healthy as it can be.

Does that make sense? What do you think? If you were sitting next to me on a plane and I explained my products in this manner, would that make sense to you?

Let me know, I really want to grasp this. It’s about time, don’t you think?

There can only be so many big things, but we seem to have an insatiable appetite for something new when it comes to beauty products. Overblown claims and faux science is almost always what the next big thing ends up being; a big deal over nothing.

So in the spirit of warning you about the next big things you will start hearing about in the media here are few of the things you may encounter:

More and more organic products will be launched—especially ones designed to feel like you are mixing the product up in your own kitchen. There will be kits you put together like a fresh salad every day.

Because of some minor research showing that aroma not only effects mood, sexuality, and even eating behavior, you will see products with a variety of new products both skin care and “perfume” making claims about enhancing and influencing behavior.

Makeup is a spontaneous purchase most women find fun so products that duplicate that expectation (like the vibrating mascaras, eyebrow makeover kits, false eyelashes studded with rhinestones) and similar impulse buy items will be on the shelves. Look for products that have interesting layers of sparkles that cling better to skin without flaking on clothes and mascaras that do the same.

The economy is still suffering so the “Beauty on a Budget” concept will continue. Companies will be launching more products at lower price points but with the same exaggerated claims as the more expensive products they sell. Makeup kits that put together an entire outfit for the face in convenient packaging will also be available at really good price points.

Organic and natural products with heart-tugging stories will pour onto the market. Mother’s making products for their daughters, daughters making products for their mother, survivors of cancer making products for others with their health concern, etc. Don’t count on those lines providing anything new in terms of formulary, this is all about marketing a really good story and making healthy consumers afraid of benign ingredients while promoting questionable natural ones.

In terms of ingredients, because of the research showing that diet (antioxidants, omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids) can improve skin texture, collagen production, and encourage more normal cell development, products claiming to mimic a healthy diet will be launched (and if they are well formulated will be good for skin, but regrettably claims in the cosmetics industry rarely match claims).

You’ll see all of this and more as you venture out to shop for cosmetics in 2010. What you can count on as always is there will still be plenty of poor products, plenty of fantasy claims to endure and overcome, and plenty of opportunities become an even savvier cosmetics consumer—one who can separate hype from fact and is all the more beautiful because of it!