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Musoori in July/Aug?

By Peter on Jun 6, 2009, 12:56.

Hi, what's Mussoorie like in July/Aug? Are hotels very expensive? Is it popular with travelers? Is it easy to find a place to stay for a month or two?

GPS maps for India

By rjstuff on May 24, 2009, 11:30.

Are nay maps available to download to a Megallen device bought in USA? Anything good/working available in India? Jai Ho

Goa beach with kids: trip report on Mandrem beach

By Peter on May 7, 2009, 10:57.

Another report on our India trip. Amelia (the 1 1/2 year old) got sick with a serious ear infection on the plane, so our first week was spent in hospitals and wasn't much fun. I wrote this while we were in Mandrem. We're in Mandrem now, the first beach south of the popular but busy and somewhat dirty hippie hangout Arambol. Mandrem is much quieter, and still has a very village-like feel. There are a few larger hut camps, but most of the accommodation is in houses for long term travelers. It seems Mandrem was discovered by Scandinavians in the 90s, because most people here seem to be Scandinavian families with young children that stay for the season. Long term houses with 2 rooms, a kitchen and a bathroom go for about 1000 rupees a day (about 25 US$), or less, if you rent them for 3 to 4 months and negotiate. The garden behind our hotel, the Villa River Cat in Mandrem, Goa:   If you're just staying for a few weeks and it's not Christmas/New Year, you should still be able to find something for perhaps 1500 rupees a night with a kitchen, try Diksha's residence. New buildings and houses are added every season, so come now, not in 10 years. You can also stay in a regular hotel room with bathroom (like D'Souza's, who have rooms with bathrooms for about 500 rupees a night), or in one of the hut camps, that have clean huts with shared showers for a bit less. In general, Mandrem is 30something, Arambol is 20something. Mandrem is quieter and less developed, Arambol has more shops, cafes and stuff. Mandrem: I couldn't believe how many little kids there are here, if you're from the US, you may know the concept of "freerange" kids? This is freerange kids central. Again, mostly Scandinavians, some Russians and a few other nationalities. Some Indian families in the hut camps too (Dunes hut camp seems most popular). The beaches are very, very nice - water is perfect, there are very few people on the large beach. There's a river that runs between the beach and the dunes, you cross little wooden bridges to cross it. There are a few wooden thingies that provide shadow with beachbeds, they're not being charged for, perhaps because there are so few tourists anyway. The mornings are great for beaching, the afternoons are too hot for us, the kid takes a nap then anyways, and we hang out in the hotel where it's fresh. We're staying in the Villa River Cat, which is more upmarket (about 40 euros a night for a very nice room), which was nice with a sick kid. Anyways, back to the beaches: they are very nice. Very very shallow too, so safe to swim and play for kids. There are the usual vendors who are not too intense (it's a big empty beach with only a few tourists on it). Typical picture of Arambol: Getting a haircut in Arambol:   On the road to Mandrem: We're finding a good rhythm now. In the mornings: beach time. Then we have lunch (Indian food, usually between 300 and 500 rupees for the 3 of us). In the afternoons, we work a little on the computer, the kid takes a nap and plays in the hotel where it's fresher, and there's yoga class. In the evenings, we take it easy some nights, other nights we go to Arambol where there are some lively cafes with live music almost every night. Sometimes we do a day trip to a nearby market or something. When you walk south on the beach, 10 minutes south you can see little Portuguese villas you can rent. They look wonderful, but are very expensive (think 100s of dollars a night) - supposedly Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie stayed here a few years back. Hey, we have the same beach though. Walk 20 minutes more to the south and there's a wonderfully romantic French cafe on the beach called La Plage. The beaches along the walk are all very quiet, mostly just hut camps along them. La Plage is wonderful, great French food and a wonderful decor of simple white and blue wooden tables, a little more expensive than the usual but worth it. We'll be heading back there before we're done here. Pictures of La Plage: The Mumbai bombings seem to have had a big effect on tourism in Goa in general this year: a lot less tourists, which is kind of nice. It's Februari now anyways, so it's particularly busy. From Mumbai, we took the Konkan express (train # 0111), which you can book online and pay for with a credit card (you can only start booking tickets a week before the date of the ticket). It's probably the best way to get from Mumbai to Goa, much better than a bus (they are horrible). You can also take a plane, there are very cheap tickets, but I like trains better. If you're culture-shocked just getting off the plane it might freak you out, but it's actually quite fun. The 3AC sleeper class (the only class you can book online) is pretty ok. The train ticket costs 1500 rupees per person, and kids that don't need a bed don't need to pay a ticket. Our trip was bad because of the ear infection, and also because they triple booked our seats so we had to wait 2 hours until they found us some other beds. But we're taking the same train back in a few weeks, it's still a nice trip. The cabins are simple but it's nice enough. Each cabin has 6 beds, and the beds have clean sheets and bedcovers. There are no doors, so you can walk to the next cabin easily, but it's ok, it's quiet enough to sleep, and there are people bringing chai (tea) and breakfast and stuff if you get hungry. The train leaves Mumbai late (around 11 pm), and arrives in Goa in the morning. You can get of at different stations, for Arambol or Mandrem beach, the Pernem station is the closest. Taxis will be waiting and the trip to the beach takes less than an hour. So that's Mandrem. A great place to go with kids, very undeveloped, very beautiful.

Staying at Villa River Cat in Mandrem, Goa, with a baby

By Peter on May 6, 2009, 04:47.

This is my review of the Villa River Cat in Goa. We stayed there in Jan 2009, with our daughter who was about 1 1/2 years old. She got sick before we arrived, you can read all about that here. Very short: It’s a very nice place to stay, in a wonderful beachside village, but not the cheapest. The owner can be a bit much. This is their website. They tend to be full in the busy season (european winter), so make a reservation. Mandrem is a great little village, next to the popular Arambol. Whereas Arambol is all about backpackers (and very busy), Mandrem is much quiter (although getting busier every year), and is all about Scandinavian families with children, a lot of them staying long-term. It seems Mandrem was discovered by Scandinavians, and a lot of them stay here for months every year, taking their small children. The beach is pretty quiet. There are plenty of regular places to stay, but the Villa River Cat is probably the nicest for short-term stays. The building is a beautiful colonial building, that’s beautifully decorated inside. There are a lot of shared spaces, and it’s quite cool, which is great. They have a restaurant, but it’s a little expensive (300 Rs a meal versus 120 in the other places in Mandrem) but the food is good (but few spices) and some days they don’t make food. There are plenty of other places to eat just a few minutes away though. Our room:   Our bathroom: The owner got on my nerves sometimes, he talks a lot and doesn’t listen much. But he does a good job running the place and taking care of his guests. The place was full pretty much the entire month we stayed there. There are (again) a lot of Scandinavians staying here, often with children too. It’s not right on the beach (it’s a 2 minute walk), but that’s ok, most places are like that (it’s illegal to create buildings within 300 meters from the shore line in Goa, which is great because it keeps the beaches really nice. That is also the reason why you see so many wooden constructions now, they are broken down each year after the tourist season). At the back of the building there’s a garden and a river. The beach is large and mostly empty, great for swimming. Vendors aren’t particularly agressive, and the beach is mostly empty (there are a few places with seats to lie down.) To get there, just head for Mandrem beach. You can land in Goa with the plane and take a taxi, or take the Konkan Express train from Mumbai. So should you stay at the Villa River Cat? It's more expensive than other places to stay: it costs about 2900 to 3900 rupees a night for a room with attached bathroom, and you can get a small apartment with 2 rooms, a kitchen and a bathroom close by for about 1500 rupees a night. For that money, you do get nicely decorated rooms, in an arty way, and large hangout spaces in the large colonial house. There are 3 floors, and the rooms on each floor are arranged around a large hangout space that's cool and very nice for children to play in. There are lots of little places to sit, there's a garden, there's art everywhere, so the kids have a lot of fun. Negative: the dogs and cats that roam the house are friendly, but there's 1 pet dog of the owner that's 5 months old (Jan 2009), spoilt and poops and pees sometimes in the house. The owner is also a little too much into himself, although friendly and helpful. The rooms are very nice, we got a room on the top floor (the priciests), with a large bathroom. But what really made the difference for us, especially the first week when our kid was sick, where the large hangout spaces. There are plenty of families staying at the Villa River Cat, but then again, there are plenty of families in Mandrem all together. If it's your first time in India, or you want somewhere a bit nicer, just book a few days or a week here (it's best to book ahead), and then look for somewhere else to stay once you're here. When you arrive, take a walk in the morning (when it's fresh) and ask around for other places to stay. Let’s see some pictures! From outside: The top floor shared space: The terras: Amelia and friend looking in: Walking on the beach.

To the hospital in Goa

By Peter on May 5, 2009, 03:34.

In my previous posts, I told the story of how our daughter got sick on the plane to Mumbai, and then continued to be sick on the Konkan Express. Today the story continues. When we arrived with the train in Goa, we took a taxi to the hotel. It had been a rough night, with Amelia sick, and we weren’t happy. We were giving her ear medication, but it didn’t seem to be helping. So we decided to go to the hospital. The hotel owner recommended a hospital in the nearby city Mapusa, so we took a taxi there. We found it, and waited a while to see the doctor. This doctor was much better. She was a regular pediatrician (not an ear specialist), and she checked Amelia out. She used the same plastic flashlight as the doctor in Mumbia, but we felt much more reassured with her. She prescribed some medication (the same stuff that our doctor in Belgium used to prescribe), and she said Amelia should get better within a few days. She also explained that the specialist was only available on certain days, and we could see him in 3 days. OK. The doctor visit was pretty cheap btw, about 10 US$ for the doctor and another 10 for the medication. I never filed the insurance papers back in Belgium because it wasn’t even worth it. I was quite pleased with this hospital and the doctor. They were pretty good, friendly, and instilled confidence, and I’d go there again. I think part of the fear of taking your kids to a hospital in a foreign country is just that, fear. And shock when things are different than back home. But all in all it was pretty alright. Looking back, we actually waited too long to take her to the hospital. If we’d gone in Mumbai, to a specialist, she would have gotten the right medicine sooner. But we were afraid, and hoped it wasn’t so bad and it would just get better by itself. Lesson learnt: with kids, go to the doctor sooner rather than later, even if you’re a little afraid to do that in a foreign country. In fact, later, I saw loads of foreigners in Goa who obviously had made the same mistake. Backpackers with cheap bandages, or wounds (mostly from bike accidents) that were badly taken care of. All this because they wouldn’t go to a hospital in India. Dumb. Amelia in the hotel being cute: On the way to the hospital in Mapusa. More cuteness, this time in Arambol: We felt better now, and got some rest in the hotel. Amelia took the medication, and was getting a little better but still had fever after a few days. So we made another appointment to visit the specialist. He was a rather annoying man, who made us wait a long time, but he checked her ears out (this time with something more specialized than a plastic flashlight) and said her ears were still very infected. So he upped the dosage of the medication. A few days later still, and Amelia was much better and healed. The hospital that was recommended to us as the best in north Goa was the Vintage Hospital (http://www.vintage3.com, 6644401 or 6644405). The pediatrician that we saw that we liked a lot was called Dr. Pinky Paliencar. The cost of a visit btw was about 300 rupees (US$ 8). There's a pharmacy next to the hospital where they can get you the prescriptions. We had to wait about an hour before seeing the doctor in each case. So next I’ll be able to relate happier tales, of our holiday in Goa. Here are my lessons learnt so far: Take medication on the plane. When traveling with kids, use the help that’s there (like porters). When traveling with kids, go to the doctor sooner rather than later, even if you’re a little afraid to do that in a foreign country. Next, the story of our holiday in Goa.

Continuing the ear-infection: sick on the Konkan express

By Peter on May 4, 2009, 06:39.

As you can read in my previous post, Amelia got an ear infection in Belgium, got a fever on the plane to India and when we landed in Mumbai she was pretty sick. However, we didn’t really realize how sick she was. Mumbai is very busy and intense, and we had a train reservation to go overnight to Goa, on the Mumbai-Goa Konkan express. So we decided to go. We thought she would get better faster in a relaxed hotel on the beach than in Mumbai. The Mumbai-Goa Konkan express is one of the few trains you can book from abroad, which I had done, because seats in these trains tend to fill up weeks ahead of time. It’s a sleeper train, so you get a bed, in an open compartment (with 6 people). You can only book it 10 days in advance of the trip date, online, pay with credit card. We went to Victoria station, which is really busy and hectic but pretty interesting, to take the train, at 10 pm in the evening. Victoria Station: Here the problems started. Remember we were still pretty jet-lagged. This didn’t help, we were carrying a sick baby, and our bags (that weren’t huge bit still heavy). On the return trip I learnt to use the porters that are available in every train station. If you’re traveling with children, that just makes life that much easier, even if they try to rip you off (it’s just a few 100 rupees, which is a few dollars). Lesson learnt: when traveling with kids, use the help that’s there (like porters). Watch what Indian families do. Once the train got going, the first problem turned up. They didn’t reserve a compartment for us. It turned out we would have to wait 3 hours in the end to get them to find a bed for us. They had doublebooked. Arg. Our stresslevels were rising, and this being a few days after landing, our tolerance for Indian-ness wasn’t very high (in other words, culture shock hadn’t really worn off yet). Meanwhile, Amelia was getting more sick and was crying all the time. Not a good time. The whole trip was pretty miserable, Amelia sick, we worried about her, trying to get some sleep. When we arrived in Goa in the morning we took a taxi to the hotel, and then went straight to the hospital with Amelia. More about that in the next episode! To give you an idea, here’s a picture of the return trip (Goa –> Mumbai, which we also did with the Konkan Express). Amelia hanging out with an Indian family. That trip was much nicer. Changing Amelia in the train: Next: to the hospital in Goa!

Ear infection in Mumbai

By Peter on May 4, 2009, 04:46.

This is the first of a series of travel reports I’m writing about our trip to India with our daughter who was then 1 1/2 years old. We went for a month, and went to Mumbai and Goa. As you can tell from the title, she got an ear infection. A pretty bad one too. She didn’t get it in Mumbai, she got sick on the plane. She was in fact already sick before we left, and the ear infection just really kicked in while we were on the plane, so it really had nothing to do with India, just with us not being careful enough. Anyways, so while we were on the plane, ear infection kicks in and she gets a fever. Lesson 1: always take pain medication on the plane. We didn’t bring any. Luckily, they gave us some on the plane, but that involved filling in forms etcetera. Amelia on the plane, looking a little sick: Luckily we got a baby cot (they also call it a bassinet) reserved on the plane, so she could get some sleep. These are great, if your baby is less than 2 years old, try to get one. Call the airline in advance. The next morning we landed in Mumbai and went to the hotel (which we reserved in advance). The room was tiny, but we went to sleep. Amelia was pretty tired, so she slept too. The next day we were still in Mumbai, and still underestimating this ear infection. Amelia is a strong kid, so she didn’t cry all the time, we didn’t know yet it was an ear infection and we figured she’d be fine.  We staid in the Residency Hotel, which was fine. When she started to get worse again and cry, we called a doctor. He came to the hotel, came to the room, pulled out a cheap plastic flashlight, shone it into her ear and declared “she has an ear infection”. Yes, we knew that by then. Our confidence in this doctor wasn’t very high, and the cheapo flashlight didn’t help (although we learnt later that this is standard practice. In Belgium, regular doctors have the ear thingie to look into your ear, in India, only specialists have something like that, regular doctors have plastic flashlights). We went to get some medicine in one of the many pharmacies (which are ok for regular medicine and the medicines are very cheap in general) for her ear, and we thought that should fix it. This is a picture of Amelia and me in Mumbai: Still doesn’t look very happy. The thing is: we didn’t really know if she was sick or just jetlagged (as we were pretty jetlagged ourselves). The sling helped a lot though, it’s very comfy. Read the next part of this story in Sick on the Konkan Express.

Silent noise party

By Peter on Mar 16, 2009, 06:04.

A friend told me about this - the laws in Goa about partying are really strict these days (Goa's raves days are totally over), but now there's a solution: silent noise parties. Everyone puts on headphones, and on with the party! The parties are held in Palolem, Goa. http://www.silentnoise.in/

Leaving Sturday!!!

By mosvar on Mar 3, 2009, 09:07.

Thanks Peter and everyone else who supplied some helpful hints on Goa. I'll be sure to let you guys know how everything went. This will be my 3rd trip to Mumbai and first to Goa.

The entire script of Slumdog Millionaire

By Peter on Feb 22, 2009, 05:21.

"SLUMDOG MILLIONAIRE" BY Simon Beaufoy DRAFT DATED 4 NOVEMBER 2007 © SLUMDOG FILMS LIMITED 39 LONG ACRE LONDON WC2E 9LG INT. JAVED’S SAFE-HOUSE. BATHROOM. NIGHT. 1 1 An expensive bathroom suite. Excess of marble and gold taps. Into the bath, a hand is scattering rupee notes. Hundreds and hundreds of notes, worth hundreds of thousands of rupees. The sound of a fist thumping on the bathroom door, furious shouting from the other side. JAVED O/S Salim! Salim! INT. STUDIO. BACKSTAGE. DAY. 2 2 Darkness. Then, glimpses of faces. In the half-light, shadowy figures move with purpose. An implacable voice announces. TALKBACK V/O Ten to white-out, nine, eight, seven... PREM Are you ready? Silence. A hand shakes a shoulder a little too roughly. PREM (CONT’D) I said are you ready? JAMAL Yes. INT. JAVED’S SAFE-HOUSE. BATHROOM. NIGHT. 3 3 The thumping at the door continues. The sound of mumbled Indian prayer. Dull gleam of a pistol. A hand cracks the chamber open. Loads a single bullet into the chamber, snaps the chamber shut. TALKBACK V/O ...three, two, one, zero. Cue Prem, cue applause... Suddenly, the door splinters as it is smashed through. A burst of gun-fire and white light as suddenly... INT. STUDIO. NIGHT. 4 4 ...we are back in the studio, the gun-fire morphing into rapturous applause. (CONTINUED) TALKBACK V/O Go, Prem. A wall of light and noise as the two walk on stage. Cheering, music, banks of searing studio lights. On stage, Jamal, an eighteen year-old Indian boy-man stares, petrified. He would surely turn and run but for the iron grip on his shoulder of the smiling host, Prem Kumar. PREM Welcome to Who Wants To Be A Millionaire! More applause. PREM (CONT’D) Please give a warm welcome to our first contestant of the night- a local from our very own Mumbai! Under cover of the wild applause, Prem ushers Jamal towards the guest’s chair, leaning in and hissing. PREM (CONT’D) Smile, dammit. The lights seem to bore into him but Jamal manages a tentative smile. Out of nowhere, a hand slaps him ferociously across the face. Then again and again. Blood trickles from his mouth. INT. POLICE INTERVIEW ROOM. NIGHT. 5 5 The studio lights have seamlessly transformed into the harsh bulb of an interrogation light. Jamal is strung from the ceiling by his arms. CONSTABLE SRINIVAS Your name, bhen chod. Constable Srinivas’s hand pulls back Jamal’s head by the hair, forcing him to stare directly into the lights. CONSTABLE SRINIVAS (CONT’D) Your name! JAMAL Jamal Malik. And seamlessly we are back.... 2. CONTINUED: 4 4 INT. STUDIO. NIGHT. 6 6 ...on the set of Who Wants to be a Millionaire. Prem leans back in his chair, a man at home in his surroundings. Jamal sits opposite, frozen. PREM So, Jamal, tell us a bit about yourself. Close on Jamal’s face. Without warning, it is shoved under water. INT. BUCKET. NIGHT. 7 7 We look up from the bottom of the bucket at the screaming face of a drowning man. His head shakes desperately, pointlessly. Then Jamal’s face is dragged up again, roaring for breath. Close on his eyes. JAMAL V/O I work in a call centre. In Juhu. INT. STUDIO. NIGHT. 8 8 PREM A Phone-basher! And what type of call centre would this be? JAMAL XL 5. Mobile phones. PREM Aha! So, you’re the man who rings me up every single day of my life with Special Offers, huh? JAMAL No, actually, I’m an assistant. PREM An Assistant Phone-basher? A raised eye-brow at the audience. Amusement ruffles through them. PREM (CONT’D) And what does an Assistant Phonebasher do, exactly? JAMAL I- I get tea for people and- 3. (CONTINUED) PREM - a chi-wallah! Why didn’t you say? Laughter in the audience. PREM (CONT’D) So, ladies and gentlemen, Jamal Malik from Mumbai, let’s play Who Wants To Be A Millionaire...! OMITTED 9 9 INT. POLICE INTERVIEW ROOM. DAY. 10 10 Jamal’s body dangles motionless from the ceiling. His head is bowed and he is moaning to himself. The ceiling fan thumps round slowly. In the corner, Constable Srinivas mops his brow and lights a cigarette. Hot work. The door opens and the Inspector of Police walks in. A rumpled man in his late forties who has seen pretty much everything. He eyes Jamal, surprised. INSPECTOR Has he confessed, yet? CONSTABLE SRINIVAS Apart from his name, I can’t get a word out of the runt. INSPECTOR You’ve been here all bloody night, Srinivas. What have you been doing? Srinivas shrugs. CONSTABLE SRINIVAS Tough guy. INSPECTOR A little electricity will loosen his tongue. Constable Srinivas brings a box and a tangle of wires out of a cupboard and proceeds to put crocodile clips on Jamal’s fingers. The Inspector stares, deep in thought. Sweat trickles down his face. He wipes it away with a handkerchief, seems to be talking to himself. INSPECTOR (CONT’D) Every night I get home, “why can’t we have a/c like Bajan Chacha? 4. CONTINUED: 8 8 (MORE) (CONTINUED) Why don’t you care about your poor family, dying in this heat.” Twenty-four years a policeman and I can’t afford bloody a/c. Turns on Jamal. INSPECTOR (CONT’D) But you. You’ve got ten million rupees ek dum guaranteed, yaar? And who knows how much further? Fancy the twenty million, do you? Jamal just stares. INSPECTOR (CONT’D) I think you probably do. The Inspector nods absently to Constable Srinivas who turns a handle. Jamal’s body pulsates and jerks. He screams. His body goes limp again. The Inspector goes over to Jamal. INSPECTOR (CONT’D) So. Were you wired up? A mobile or a pager, correct? Some little hidden gadget? No? A coughing accomplice in the audience? Microchip under the skin, huh? Constable Srinivas hadn’t thought of that. Grabs Jamal’s arms and starts squeezing them all over until the Inspector has had enough. INSPECTOR (CONT’D) Srinivas! Look, it’s hot, my wife is giving me hell, I’ve got a desk full of murderers, rapists, extortionists, assorted bum-bandits...and you. Why don’t you save us both a lot of time? Hmm? Jamal doesn’t answer. The Inspector sighs and sits down. Looks at his watch, nods at Constable Srinivas again. Jamal’s body jerks with electric current. When the shudders and screams have subsided, the Inspector goes over to Jamal’s collapsed form. Clicks his fingers in front of Jamal’s face to check for a response. INSPECTOR OF POLICE He’s unconscious, chutiya. What good is that? How many times have I told you-? CONSTABLE SRINIVAS Sorry, Sir. 5. CONTINUED: 10 10 INSPECTOR (CONT’D) (CONTINUED) An excited Young Police Constable sticks his head around the door. YOUNG CONSTABLE He’s coming! Sir. INSPECTOR Aré wa, Srinivas, we’ll have Amnesty International in here next, peeing their pants about human rights. Get him down, tidy him up, for God’s sake. Constable Srinivas goes over to Jamal and starts to undo the crocodile clips. CONSTABLE SRINIVAS Maybe he did know the answers. INSPECTOR Have you gone soft, Srinivas? Professors, lawyers, doctors, General Knowledge Wallahs never get beyond sixteen thousand rupees. And he’s on ten million? What the hell can a slum dog possibly know? Jamal lifts his head. JAMAL The answers. He lifts his head, spits blood out of his mouth and says again, straight into the Inspector’s face. JAMAL (CONT’D) I know the answers. Titles. Slum Dog Millionaire. EXT. CRICKET GROUND. DAY. 11 11 Bright sunlight filtered through the ever-present Mumbai dust. A group of children are playing cricket on a tarmac cricket ground. They are bare-foot, dressed in little more than rags, wiry-skinny and fast on their feet. Salim, a nine-year old, polishes the ball on his almost non-existent shorts, comes in with surprising speed and bowls. The batsman hooks it high in the air. The bowler screams at a boy in the outfield. SALIM Jamal! Catch it! Catch it! The seven-year old Jamal stares up at the ball, jinks around trying to get into position. 6. CONTINUED: (2) 10 10 (CONTINUED) He pays no heed to the rest of the children who are scattering fast to the edges of the tarmac. The ball seems suspended in the blue sky. Shouts from the other children seem very far away. He doesn’t notice that they are screaming for him to get out of the way. Jamal adjusts his feet for the perfect catch. Then out of nowhere, a light aircraft almost takes his head off as it comes in to land on the tarmac runway. Jamal is knocked to his feet by the down-draft of the plane. The ball bounces away. Also flattened, Salim gets to his feet. SALIM (CONT’D) How could you drop that? It was a sitter. Then Salim’s face turns to one of alarm. EXT. AIRPORT PERIMETER. DAY. 12 12 At the back of a pack of children, carrying a piece of wood crudely fashioned into a sword, Jamal is running for his life, pursued by an ancient but surprisingly nimble Security Guard from the airport who is screaming abuse and wielding a long stick. The kids dash across a rubbish dump and disappear down dozens of tiny lanes that run in between the shacks of the slum. SECURITY GUARD Private-ka land! Private-ka land! The planes won’t kill you, mader chod, I will! Jamal and Salim- also with a wooden sword- break off, head down a separate lane. The Guard pursues them. INT. JUHU SLUM. DAY. 13 13 The lanes in between the corrugated iron shacks are three feet wide, with an open drain running down the middle. Many of the precarious upper floors of the shacks have been built right over the paths, turning them into black tunnels. Tunnels shot through with slivers of light. If you didn’t live here, you would be lost and frightened in minutes. But these children are natives and with the practice of many years, Jamal and Salim zig-zag down the warren of lanes. They dodge past people cooking in the doorways, sleeping, washing clothes or in the case of Vinod, a naked four year-old, pissing into the drain. Salim shouts a warning. 7. CONTINUED: 11 11 (CONTINUED) SALIM Vinod! Musketeers coming through! Without breaking step, they both jump expertly over the stream of piss. Not so the Security Guard who gets it all over his trousers, but doesn’t stop the pursuit. The two children charge past a shack filled to the roof with chickens in cages who all start squawking. They break out into the sunlight of the ‘main road’ of the slum lined with shops. It is packed: with people, stalls, bicycles and cows. All modern India is here, drinking tea, shouting at each other, selling food, playing carom, video games. Leaving a trail of shouting and wreckage behind them, the pair approach a brand new Mercedes almost blocking the lane. Beside it stands Javed, an impressive man in a beautiful suit and his two Minders. Jamal and Salim skid to a stop, put their hands together in respectful greeting and edge ever so carefully past the immaculate paintwork of the car. Still in pursuit, the Security Guard also slides carefully past the car with deprecating bows and smiles. On past the chi stall where a crowd has gathered to watch a hindi film blaring from the tv rigged up overhead. The irate Security Guard gets tangled up in a bicycle. Jamal and Salim stop to give him a taunting, hip-gyrating parody of the dance on the tv before scooting down another tunnel. They break out into sunlight again. WOMAN’S VOICE Jamal! Jamal skids to a halt, bumping into Salim who is already frozen. JAMAL Shit. Mummy-ji. JAMAL’S MOTHER Don’t you move a muscle. The Security Guard arrives and he too skids to a halt at the sight of Jamal’s mother. JAMAL’S MOTHER (CONT’D) Thank you, Mister Gupta. I will deal with these two. The Guard puts his hands together in grudging respect as Jamal’s Mother lifts each skinny kid off the floor by their t-shirt and marches them down the road. 8. CONTINUED: 13 13 INT. SCHOOL. DAY. 14 14 The two renegades are dumped by Jamal’s Mother into their desks as Mister Nandha hands out ancient school books. MISTER NANDHA So, the musketeers return. We are honoured. Salim. Or Porthos, isn’t it? He crashes the heavy book down on his head. Salim opens the book. Jamal glances over and turns the book the right way round for Salim. SALIM I know! Mister Nandha hovers over Jamal’s head. He winces in anticipation. MISTER NANDHA And Athos. The book comes down like thunder. Jamal blinks from the impact and suddenly we are back.... INT. INSPECTOR’S OFFICE. DAY. 15 15 ... in the Inspector’s office. Jamal watches Srinivas fiddling with the video recorder, trying to get a picture. Through the pebbled glass, Jamal sees shapes moving along the corridor. INT. CORRIDOR. POLICE STATION. DAY. 16 16 The Commissioner of Police is fawning along beside Prem as they walk. The Young Constable hurries behind. COMMISSIONER OF POLICE It is so kind of you to visit our station, Sir. A great honour. PREM Not at all, not at all. I hope you will visit us, Commissioner. Out of his jacket pocket comes a couple of tickets. PREM (CONT’D) Bring the family. It’s a lot of fun. COMMISSIONER OF POLICE Oh! A thousand thanks, Sir. Missus Janda will be overcome. 9. (CONTINUED) He turns to the Young Constable. COMMISSIONER OF POLICE (CONT’D) chi, you lazy chutiyé, chi! The Inspector joins them in the corridor. COMMISSIONER OF POLICE (CONT’D) Ah, Inspector! Cracked it? The Inspector moves his head. Maybe yes, maybe no. INSPECTOR Nearly, Sir. The Commissioner is just able to contain his apoplexy. COMMISSIONER OF POLICE Nearly? Nearly? When Prem Kumar himself has- Prem holds up a tolerant hand to the Commissioner who falls silent. Turns his laser-like charm onto the Inspector. PREM Inspector. How good to meet you. Clearly the kid cheated. INSPECTOR Clearly, Sir. PREM So, it is just a question of how, no? INSPECTOR Indeed, Sir. The proof. That is all we need. PREM We are lucky to have a man of your obvious experience on the case. This kid might run rings around us filmi types, but he won’t make fools out of the Mumbai Police Force, I can see that. Forced laughter from the Commissioner. PREM (CONT’D) In front of sixty million people. More laughter. And fear. 10. CONTINUED: 16 16 (CONTINUED) PREM (CONT’D) Which is what will happen if we don’t get a result, Gentlemen. He goes back on the show to rob us all with the whole of India watching. But. I can rely on you. Prem walks away down the corridor. Stops and turns, apparently casual. PREM (CONT’D) Has he- has he made any allegations? INSPECTOR Allegations? PREM He’s a cunning one. A convincing liar. Don’t be taken in, Inspector, don’t be taken in. Walks off. The Inspector stares after him. Goes back into his office. INT. INSPECTOR’S OFFICE. 17 17 Srinivas has finally got the recorder to work. We get snatches of filmi dancing- heroines singing on mountainsides surrounded by implausible numbers of flags- cricket and finally after some shouting by the Inspector, Who Wants to Be A Millionaire?. INSPECTOR So, Mister Malik, the man who knows the answers. Talk. We close in on the tv screen where Prem is smiling his crocodile smile and find ourselves.... INT. STUDIO. NIGHT. 18 18 ...as Prem asks the first question. PREM So, are you ready for your first question for one thousand rupees? JAMAL Yes. PREM Not bad money to sit in a chair and answer a question. Better than making the tea, no? 11. CONTINUED: (2) 16 16 (CONTINUED) JAMAL No. Yes. No. PREM No. Yes. No. Apka final answer? Laughter from the audience. Jamal looks confused. Prem waves it away, switches on his serious face. PREM (CONT’D) Remember, you have three lifelines if you’re not sure of your answer- Ask the Audience, 50/50 and Phone a Friend. So, the question: The lights go down, the portentous music rolls. PREM (CONT’D) Who was the star of the 1973 hit film Zanjeer. Was it AClose on Jamal’s eyes. INT. SHACK. NIGHT. 19 19 A tiny shack. A garland of dirty plastic flowers surrounds a torn flyer for one of Amitabh Bacchan’s films. EXT. JUHU SLUM. RUBBISH DUMP. NIGHT. 20 20 Salim is sitting on a chair at the end of a rickety wooden pier, though it is not water, but a sea of rubbish and sewage that lies below them. There are dozens of these piers protruding from the slum onto airport land, each with a toilet shack perched right at the end. Another man hurries up the pier and hands Salim a coin. SALIM Immediately, sir. Turns to the toilet door. SALIM (CONT’D) Bhai, get out of there. Prakash wants a shit. JAMAL O.S. Not finished. PRAKASH Stop your time-pass. This is urgent. 12. CONTINUED: 18 18 (CONTINUED) JAMAL O.S. It’s a shy one. Since when was there a time limit on a crap? SALIM Since there was a customer waiting, that’s when. He flashes another placatory smile at Prakash. JAMAL O.S. (singing/ grunting) Come on out, you beauty, unveil yourself, my darling-warling.... PRAKASH Look, kid, I got a bad stomach. It’s borderline.... A disturbing combination of heaving and snake-charmer noises come from the toilet shack. Finally Prakash can stand it no longer. PRAKASH (CONT’D) I’m off to Devi’s bog. Give me that. He snatches the coin back from Salim and hurries off. Salim bangs on the toilet door. SALIM You just lost me good money, you stupid idiot- Salim stops. In the distance, there is the faint sound of shouting, a crowd coming closer. Then the crowd bursts through the outer shacks of the slum, pour onto the rubbish dump and make for the airfield. MAN It’s Amitabh! That’s his helicopter! JAMAL O.S. Amitabh? Amitabh Bacchan? INT/EXT. TOILET. NIGHT. 21 21 Jamal peers through one of the many cracks in the shack. He sees crowds surging around the pier, charging towards a landing helicopter. Salim shoves the chair under the door handle- effectively locking it- and runs down the pier to join the chase. Jamal pulls up his shorts. JAMAL No! Wait! Salim, sala! Salim! 13. CONTINUED: 20 20 (CONTINUED) Rattles the locked door. Pulls a torn flyer from his pocket advertising an Amitabh movie. JAMAL (CONT’D) Wait! Amitabh.... He looks down the toilet hole at the sewage beneath him, the landing helicopter, the disappearing crowd. A final rattle of the door. There is only one way out. He jumps down the hole, sprawling headlong into a year’s worth of human waste, managing to keep the flyer out the mire. He runs for the helicopter. JAMAL (CONT’D) Amitabh-ji! Amitabh-ji! Salim is at the back of the crowd, trying to force a way through, but the adults shove him back. Not so for Jamal. The down-draft from the helicopter flicks bits of sewage from his clothes. Disgusted fans curse him and get out of his way. Suddenly, the red sea parts and there is nobody between Jamal and Amitabh Bacchan getting out of the helicopter. JAMAL (CONT’D) Please. Amitabh-ji. Jamal holds out his flyer. Used to signing autographs, the movie star barely looks at Jamal. He takes the flyer and scribbles his autograph on it. JAMAL (CONT’D) A thousand thanks, Amitabh-ji. He hands the flyer back to Jamal as his bodyguards surround him and hustle him into a car. Jamal chases the flyer across the tarmac, grabs it. Kisses it. EXT. JUHU SLUM. NIGHT. 22 22 From high up, the rickety tin roof-tops of the slum seem to stretch to the horizon. There is a distant shout, a figure waving an arm. MAN It’s coming! Then another shout and another, a chain of voices coming closer. People come out of their doorways with pails and buckets. The shouts come closer until we see a naked figure entirely encased in bubbles dancing and singing in the lane. Jamal is the happiest boy in the slum. JAMAL (singing) Amitabh, Amitabh, oh Amitabh! 14. CONTINUED: 21 21 (MORE) (CONTINUED) I have your autograph, oh, holy Amitabh! MOTHER Here it comes! Water comes bubbling through a hose and Jamal’s mother hoses down her ecstatic son. EXT. JUHU SLUM. NIGHT. 23 23 Not far away, Salim wanders to Mister Chi’s stall. He glances around to make sure everybody is glued to the hindi film on Mister Chi’s tv and surreptitiously slips Mister Chi the signed flyer. Mister Chi takes a look and gives Salim a small wad of rupees. He sticks the money in his pocket, slinks away. EXT. JUHU SLUM. NIGHT. 24 24 A tear-stained Jamal is furiously trying to batter Salim, but Salim’s extra strength and height means that he can keep Jamal at bay with one hand, Jamal’s flailing fists punching thin air. JAMAL Sala! Sala! Salim’s laughter only makes Jamal cry harder. INT. INSPECTOR’S OFFICE. NIGHT. 25 25 Close on the tv screen in the Inspector’s office. Prem ponders Jamal’s choice. Presses a button on his computer. PREM V/O You chose A- Amitabh Bacchan. Guess what? You just won one thousand rupees! Applause on screen. The Inspector looks at Jamal. Jamal shrugs. JAMAL You don’t have to be a genius. CONSTABLE SRINIVAS I knew it was Amitabh. JAMAL Like I said. Constable Srinivas twists Jamal’s arm behind his back, evincing a squeal of pain from Jamal. 15. CONTINUED: 22 22 JAMAL (CONT'D) (CONTINUED) JAMAL (CONT’D) (squealing) He’s the most famous man in India...! The Inspector stares at Jamal, turns back to the tv where Prem is asking the next question. PREM O/S For four thousand rupees....the national emblem of India is a picture of three lions. What is written underneath? Is it... INT. STUDIO. NIGHT. 26 26 PREM ...A) The truth alone triumphs. B) Lies alone triumph. C) Fashion alone triumphs. D) Money alone triumphs. Prem shoots a mock puzzled look out to the audience eliciting giggles from them. PREM (CONT’D) What do we think, Jamal? The most famous phrase in our country’s history. Maybe you want to phone a friend? Laughter from the audience. The studio lights bear down on Jamal. a drop of sweat trickles down his forehead. Prem is loving his discomfort. PREM (CONT’D) Or Ask the Audience? I have a hunch they might just know the answer. What do we think? He gestures expansively at his audience. Oh, they love him. JAMAL Yes. PREM (startled) Yes? JAMAL Ask the audience. Prem whistles. Raises his eyes at the audience. PREM Well, you’re the contestant, Jamal. 16. CONTINUED: 25 25 (MORE) (CONTINUED) Put the poor man out of his misery, Ladies and Gentlemen. Press your key-pad now. The lights dim. Portentous music. INT. INSPECTOR’S OFFICE. DAY. 27 27 The Inspector presses pause. Sighs. INSPECTOR So, Jamal. My five-year-old daughter knows the answer to that, but you don’t. Strange for a millionaire genius. What happened? Your accomplice nip out for a piss, did he? Or did he just not cough loud enough? Silence. Constable Srinivas kicks Jamal’s chair. CONSTABLE SRINIVAS The Inspector asked you a question. JAMAL How much is bhelpuri at Jeevan’s stall on Chowpatty Beach? INSPECTOR What? JAMAL One bhelpuri. How much? CONSTABLE SRINIVAS (can’t help himself) Ten rupees. JAMAL Wrong. Fifteen since Divali. Who stole Constable Varma’s bicycle outside Dadar Station last Thursday? INSPECTOR (amused) You know who that was? JAMAL Everyone in Juhu knows that. Even five year-olds. Despite himself, the Inspector laughs. Then leans in. 17. CONTINUED: 26 26 PREM (CONT'D) (CONTINUED) INSPECTOR I’ll give you five hundred rupees if you just admit it. You go home, I go home. Everybody happy. Jamal just stares back. INSPECTOR (CONT’D) No, you want to go back on the programme and win twenty million rupees, don’t you? JAMAL Wouldn’t you? INT. STUDIO. NIGHT. 28 28 PREM The audience has chosen. And, whaddya know? Ninety-nine percent of them think the answer is A). The truth alone triumphs. What do we think, Jamal? A hundred percent would have made me a little more reassured, maybe.... Prem shrugs, makes a show of examining his computer. Suddenly fixes him with his eyes. PREM (CONT’D) Are you married, Jamal? JAMAL No. PREM Well, don’t despair, there’s someone out there who thinks our national motto is “Fashion alone triumphs”. You two could be very well matched. Audience laughter. INT. GALLERY. NIGHT. 29 29 The Director is shaking his head. DIRECTOR What the bloody hell is he playing at? He’s way off script... VISION MIXER Split up with his girl-friend. 18. CONTINUED: 27 27 (CONTINUED) DIRECTOR Which one? VISION MIXER All three, I heard. Nita as well. Back with the wife. She’s pregnant again. DIRECTOR Oh, God, that’s all we need.... VISION MIXER Oh, for Sharukh Khan...Stand by white out. INT. STUDIO. NIGHT. 30 30 PREM ...won four thousand rupees! Music, lights, applause. PREM (CONT’D) One more question before the commercial break. What will our Call Centre Assistant do next? The lights dim. Prem presses his computer. PREM (CONT’D) Religion! Interesting. For sixteen thousand rupees, in depictions of the God Ram, he is famously holding what in his right hand? Is it A) a flower. B) a scimitar. C) a child or D) a bow and arrow? EXT. DHOBI. JUHU SLUM. DAY. 31 31 Right next to the railway lines is a pond of dirty water surrounded by shacks in which dozens of women are washing clothes. Trains flash past only feet away from them. Down the other end of the pond, nine-year old Jamal and Salim are splashing noisily with some other children. Jamal’s mother pauses in her scrubbing, wipes sweat from her forehead and gazes up at the leaden sky. JAMAL AND SALIM’S MOTHER It’s going to come. Today. I can feel it. The woman next to her nods. WOMAN Hope so. My head is exploding. 19. CONTINUED: 29 29 (CONTINUED) MOTHER Yes. We need rain. Jamal is trying to intercept the ball that Salim and Krishna are throwing to each other. He’s not having much success. The ball flies overhead again from Salim to Krishna. Jamal dives for it, misses and goes underwater. When he comes up for air, he shakes his head, clearing his ears of water. Then he stops, listens. Shakes his head again. Definitely something strange. Thunder? Salim and Krishna are trading catches, unaware that anything has changed. But Jamal’s mother has heard it too. The faintest sound of shouting, roaring. The wave of noise is still faint but getting louder. A frozen moment broken by: MOTHER (CONT’D) Run! Jamal, Salim, run! Everybody stares at her. A train speeds through as she continues to shout, her words lost beneath the thundering train. MOTHER (CONT’D) Go! Run! The train goes through, the last carriage flying past suddenly opening up the sight of a wall of rioting men wielding clubs, scythes, metal bars. They come screaming across the railway tracks. SALIM Krishna, quick! Salim holds out his hand to Krishna who is wading with difficulty through the water. KRISHNA No way! You’re a bloody Muslim. Get away from me! The rioters leap the tracks and are upon them. KRISHNA (CONT’D) They’re Muslims! Him and him! MOTHER Go! Salim and Jamal scramble out and retreat into the lanes. Salim turns to see his Mother felled by a rioter. She is surrounded by screaming, chanting men who rain blows down on her. Jamal runs back and drags Salim down an alley. As they head down the alley, they get glimpses of burning houses, fleeing women, a threeyear old boy in a doorway, painted entirely in garish blue. He stares at them. In his hand, he is carrying a bow and arrow. An eleven-year old girl dressed only in a pair of pants runs after them. 20. CONTINUED: 31 31 (CONTINUED) She has two bleeding red gashes on her back. They turn a corner and head towards some vans full of police. Jamal sees Mister Nandha, the school teacher, stops. JAMAL Salim! Then Mister Nandha starts walking towards him. An oasis of calm in the chaos. Jamal looks at him with relief. JAMAL (CONT’D) Mister Nandha. Mister Nandha smiles, walks towards them. MISTER NANDHA Ram nam satya hai, Babri Masjid dhvasth hai. JAMAL Mister Nandha? MISTER NANDHA We have destroyed your mosque. Now, the followers of Ram will drive you dogs out of our city. From behind his back he produces a knife and runs towards Jamal, screaming. MISTER NANDHA (CONT’D) Ram has returned to his temple! Ram has returned! They flee, but Jamal turns, sees the girl, frozen. He chases back a few steps, hauls her arm. The spell broken, and they are off. INT. STREET. EVENING. 32 32 They reach the safety of the police vans. But inside the vans, the police are smoking, laughing, playing cards. Down the street, a man comes whirling out of a doorway, his hair on fire. He falls into the middle of the street and is engulfed by rioters. Unperturbed, the police continue to chat. Salim and Jamal look on, horrified. Then one of the police men turns, looks at them. Is interested. Motions to a colleague. Puts out his cigarette with purpose. JAMAL Let’s go, bhai. Salim and Jamal run. The girl follows. 21. CONTINUED: (2) 31 31 EXT. MUMBAI. EVENING. 33 33 Salim and Jamal stand on a hill overlooking the city. Black smoke billows from a large area that is clearly the Juhu slum. Standing a little way off is the girl. JAMAL We should go back. Silence. JAMAL (CONT’D) See if Ama- Salim shakes his head fiercely, silencing Jamal for a moment. But only a moment. JAMAL (CONT’D) What about Jeevan Chacha? Salim shakes his head. JAMAL (CONT’D) Maybe he- Salim shakes his head again. SALIM - I saw him. He was with them. JAMAL But he wouldn’t hurt- SALIM - he was with them! JAMAL But- SALIM - shut up, Jamal, can’t you? Just shut up! Salim turns away and sees the girl. Picks up a rock and hurls it at her. She dodges, takes a couple of steps back but makes no real attempt to get away. He finds another rock and hurls this in her direction too. SALIM (CONT’D) Ja! Then a flash of lightning and thunder rumbles across the city. Rain begins to come down. JAMAL What shall we do? 22. (CONTINUED) No answer. Jamal sits down. Salim sits down. At a distance, the girl sits down. Rain pours down their faces. INT. BUILDER’S YARD. NIGHT. 34 34 Rain as you’ve never seen. A pile of huge water pipes in a sprawling builder’s yard. Jamal is in one pipe, Salim above him in another. They are both soaked, shivering, but have found some plastic sheet to wrap themselves in. Outside, thirty feet away, stands the girl. Staring. Salim hisses angrily at the girl. SALIM Go away. Ja, ja! The girl might not even have heard. SALIM (CONT’D) She’ll have the Security Guard onto us, standing there. JAMAL Not if we let her in. SALIM No. JAMAL She could be the third musketeer. SALIM I am the head of this family, now. And I say no. Piss off, you. Salim huddles down in the pipe. After a while, Jamal follows suit. SALIM (CONT’D) We don’t even know what the third musketeer’s called. EXT. JUHU SLUM. DAY 35 35 A flash of Jamal’s mother being clubbed to the ground. Her scream. INT. BUILDER’S YARD. LATER. 36 36 Jamal wakes with a jolt and a scream half-swallowed in his mouth. He shuts his eyes tight, trying to force the image out. His breathing slows and he sees the girl staring at him. Salim, too, is staring into nothing. The rain is still falling. 23. CONTINUED: 33 33 (CONTINUED) The girl goes back to drawing shapes in the mud with her finger. Jamal climbs out of the pipe. Looks at Salim for permission or refusal, but he just continues to stare. So, Jamal walks across to her. She looks up, wary. JAMAL Where’s your Mother? Silence. JAMAL (CONT’D) Father? The girl shakes her head slightly. Jamal takes the plastic sheet from around his shoulders. Gives it to her. JAMAL (CONT’D) I’m Jamal. He’s Salim. LATIKA Latika. Jamal goes back to his water pipe, climbs in. Watches her huddled under the sheet. Sighs, motions for her to join him. She darts across, jumps into the water pipe and huddles up next to Jamal. INT. INSPECTOR’S OFFICE. DAY. 37 37 Jamal looks at the Inspector. JAMAL I wake up every morning wishing I didn’t know the answer to that question? If it wasn’t for Ram and Allah, I would still have a Mother. INT. STUDIO. NIGHT 38 38 JAMAL D) A bow and arrow. PREM Final answer? JAMAL Final answer. Prem stares at him for dramatic effect. Presses his computer. PREM Computer-ji, D lock kiya-jaye. 24. CONTINUED: 36 36 (CONTINUED) The lights dim, the music swells. PREM (CONT’D) Jamal Malik, you answered D? Ram is depicted with a bow and arrow in his hand. And guess what? You’ve just won sixteen thousand rupees! Well done, my friend. Time for a commercial breakdon’t go away, now. Music, applause. Prem switches off his professional smile. Gets up. PREM (CONT’D) Got lucky, huh? I’d take the money. You’ll never get the next one. JAMAL You’re from the Juhu slum, aren’t you? PREM Hmm? Sure. Know where I live now, kid? Pali Hill. Twelve bedrooms, a/c in every room, two kitchens, a gym and a screening room. Steel balls is what it takes, my friend, steel balls. The Floor Manager comes over and gives his head-phones set to Prem. Prem listens. DIRECTOR V/O Prem? Tone it down, for goodness sake. You’re making him a laughing stock. Prem glances up at the gallery with contempt. PREM We’re having fun here. They love it...Where the hell do you get them from? He makes no attempt to hide the conversation from Jamal. DIRECTOR V/O It’s supposed to be a quiz show, not a blood sport. FLOOR MANAGER Two minutes. 25. CONTINUED: 38 38 (CONTINUED) PREM Stop wetting your pants. I’ll be a good little boy with the next one. Promise. He chucks the head-phones back at the Floor Manager. Glances in the wings. Sees Nita, the make-up woman. Gets up and goes over. INT. STUDIO. BACKSTAGE. NIGHT. 39 39 In the half-light, backstage, Nita dabs his face with powder. PREM Meet me after the show. Please. NITA No. PREM Nita, I can explain. NITA No need. I read it in bloody Stardust. Didn’t even have the balls to tell me. “Prem’s happiness with another baby on the way”. After everything you said... PREM Baby, it all happened before I met you. I swear to you. NITA She’s got the gestation period of an elephant, then. Prem is about to object. But instead, he laughs. PREM You see? Amidst all this misery, only you can make me laugh. Scornful but hints of melting. NITA All this misery... PREM Her and I- nothing. You have to believe me, baby... Nita turns away. The Floor Manager comes over. FLOOR MANAGER One minute. 26. CONTINUED: (2) 38 38 (CONTINUED) Prem slings himself in a chair. PREM No. I’m not going on. NITA Prem... PREM I can’t. Without you, it’s all pointless. Clicks his fingers at the Floor Manager. PREM (CONT’D) You. Tell the Director. Nita shakes her head at the Floor Manager who by now is looking very worried. FLOOR MANAGER Thirty seconds. Prem shrugs and folds his arms. Sees her weaken. NITA Prem... PREM Calypso Bar, private room, just you and me? FLOOR MANAGER Fifteen. NITA (furious) Alright. He grins, jumps up, blows her a kiss, and stalks back on stage. INT. STUDIO. NIGHT. 40 40 He sits back down, says almost to himself. PREM Steel balls. Turns to Jamal. PREM (CONT’D) Okay, Juhu boy, you’ve had a good run. Take your Mother to Khandala and eat some chiki. JAMAL My Mother’s dead. 27. CONTINUED: 39 39 (CONTINUED) PREM Well, your girlfriend then. Even better. JAMAL I don’t have a girl-friend. PREM Live wire like you? You surprise me. FLOOR MANAGER Five, four... The warm-up man starts the applause. TALKBACK V/O ....three, two, one... Cheering and music. Prem switches on his charm. PREM Welcome back to Who Wants to be a Millionaire! Our contestant, Jamal Malik, Call Centre Assistant- from Mumbai, is on sixteen thousand rupees and has already used one lifeline: Ask the Audience. So, my friend: are you ready for the next question? JAMAL Yes. PREM Then, let’s play. Portentous music. The lights dim. PREM (CONT’D) For sixty-four thousand rupees. The British architect Frederick Stevens designed which famous building in India? Is it: A) The Taj Mahal. B) Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus. C) India Gate. D) Howrah Bridge. What do you think, Jamal? Are you one of those tea-boys with a penchant for architecture? INT. CHHATRAPATI SHIVAJI TERMINUS. DAY. 41 41 Known to everyone as VT station, this monument to Victorian railway architecture is a dangerous place to be at rush hour. 28. CONTINUED: 40 40 (CONTINUED) Even before the train has stopped, men are jumping from the open doors, or vaulting out of the windows or from the roof of the train to join the tens of thousands of Mumbaites streaming to and from work. A seventeen-year old Jamal squeezes himself out of a train and shoves through the crowds. He checks the time. The digital numerals flick to five O’clock. Looks around the tide of humanity. INT. STUDIO. NIGHT. 42 42 PREM So, what’s it to be? Walk away and this cheque for sixteen thousand rupees is yours. Look, it’s even got your name on it. He produces a cheque and waves it at Jamal. JAMAL I don’t have a bank account. Laughter from the audience. Prem is momentarily wrongfooted. JAMAL (CONT’D) But I’ll take cash. More laughter, this time with Jamal, rather than at him. Prem gets up and starts rummaging theatrically through his jacket pockets and trousers. PREM Nope. Looks like the Producer’s stolen my wallet again- JAMAL - I’ll play. Nobody was expecting this. Least of all Prem who has to rearrange his features into one of surprised delight. He sits down. PREM You’ll play? JAMAL Why not? PREM Well, well, well. We’ve got a wild one, here. Prem tears up the cheque with theatrical slowness. 29. CONTINUED: 41 41 (CONTINUED) PREM (CONT’D) For sixty-four thousand rupees, Ladies and Gentlemen, the question once again.... INT. CHHATRAPATI SHIVAJI TERMINUS. DAY. 43 43 The digital clocks show five fifteen. Shoving the descending river of people out of his way, the eighteen year-old Jamal is forging a path up steps that cross the platforms. He pushes to the middle of the footbridge and leans out on the side railings. He scans the sea of people, desperately. Then he sees her: the eighteen year-old Latika, heart-stoppingly beautiful, over the other side of the station. A world away. She is scanning the crowd, as wired as he is. JAMAL Latika! Latika! But though he is screaming her name, his voice is swallowed by the noise around him. Then he sees two thuggish-looking men also fighting a way towards her. JAMAL (CONT’D) Latika! Frightened now, he fights his way down the steps, one figure against an army of white-robed people. JAMAL (CONT’D) Latika! JAMAL V/O Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus. PREM V/O Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus. Sure? JAMAL V/O I think so. PREM V/O You think so. A brave man, Ladies and Gentlemen, a brave man. INT. CHHATRAPATI SHIVAJI TERMINUS. DAY. 44 44 The commuters have mostly gone. Jamal is pacing the platform desperately. He stops, stares blankly at the statue in front of him- a proud, rather pompous figure in a Victorian frock coat. The plaque reads: Frederick Stevens. 30. CONTINUED: 42 42 INT. INSPECTOR’S OFFICE. NIGHT. 45 45 The Inspector, Srinivas and Jamal are staring at the video recorder. JAMAL Yes. Final answer. Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus. PREM Is the right answer! Sixty-four thousand rupees to you, Sir! Applause and music. The Inspector presses pause. Stares at Jamal. INSPECTOR And did she come back? Jamal smiles sadly. JAMAL I wouldn’t be here if she had. INSPECTOR Pretty was she? Jamal stares down at his feet. INSPECTOR (CONT’D) Guess not. Right in the eyes. JAMAL The most beautiful woman in the world. Constable Srinivas snorts. Suddenly, Jamal is out of his chair and at Srinivas’ throat. The combined force of the Inspector and Srinivas force him roughly back down. He is again handcuffed to the chair. INSPECTOR OF POLICE Well, well. The slum dog barks. Money or women. The reason for most mistakes in life. Looks like you got mixed up with both. Srinivas, you need the exercise: a trip to VT Station to check on the statue. And lock your bloody bike up. Constable Srinivas swears under his breath but bumbles out. 31. (CONTINUED) INSPECTOR That’s the chutiyé out the way. Now, man to man. How did you know all the answers? JAMAL If I knew, I’d tell you. OMITTED 46 46 OMITTED 47 47 INT. STUDIO. NIGHT. 48 48 PREM Now we’re into the serious money. For two hundred and fifty thousand rupees, ladies and gentlemen, a quarter of a million rupees...the song Chalo Ri Murali was written by which famous Indian poet. Was it A) Surdas. B) Tulsidas. C) Mira Bai. D) Kabir. Remember you still have two lifelines- fiftyfifty and Phone A Friend. Tempted to use one? JAMAL No. PREM No? JAMAL I know this one. PREM Oh. I see. An expert on the poets, huh? The lights dim, the music swells and Prem presses his computer. EXT. MUMBAI STREET. NIGHT. 49 49 Jamal is studying a piece of paper and reading out numbers from it. There is something not quite right about Jamal- perhaps the fact that there are two feet by his ears. Salim is standing on his shoulders and spraying the numbers on a wall with an aerosol and a certain lack of confidence. 32. CONTINUED: 45 45 (CONTINUED) JAMAL Four, nine, zero, nine- the one with the stick going down, Salimsix- stick going up- Latika’s head appears from around the corner. LATIKA (whispered) Oi! But they don’t hear. Then she is running for her life past the pair of them. JAMAL Six, one, shit, let’s go- Salim collapses off Jamal’s shoulders and all three run off down an alley past a dozen of the gang’s sprayed-on adverts all reading: “Beanbags- 989 4909661”. A fat Security Guard with a long stick huffs round the corner. Chases them up an alley. Nowhere to go except through an imposing gate that clearly leads to a private house. SECURITY GUARD Got you now, little shits. EXT. GARDEN. NIGHT. 50 50 They charge across the lawn, down one side of the house where all the washing is hanging. The Guard gets caught up in drying sheets, towels. He fights his way through to see Salim, Latika and Jamal leaping over the wall to safety. But Jamal turns, jumps back and grabs a girl’s dress from the line. SECURITY GUARD Aha! Little thief! The Security Guard lands a couple of blows on Jamal’s back as he dodges around him and back across the lawn, dress in hand. The Security Guard gives up. SECURITY GUARD (CONT’D) Pervert! INT. ALLEY. NIGHT. 51 51 Jamal is examing the bruises on his legs. SALIM Useless bloody look-out. What good is she, huh? 33. CONTINUED: 49 49 (CONTINUED) LATIKA (infuriated) I tried to warn you. JAMAL It’s okay, Salim. Latika slips on the dress. Spins. Both of them look up. Stare. She pulls her hair back, smiles, is transformed into a beautiful girl. EXT. GORAI BEACH DUMPING GROUND. DAY. 52 52 Blazing sun. Diggers and trucks are shifting mounds of rubble on a rubbish dump that seems to stretch for ever. Oblivious to the dust kicked up by the trucks, Latika is picking up old plastic bags, examining each one and putting the less worn in a big sack. The dress is recognisable but dusty and torn. She stoops to dig another bag out of the dirt, but stops and stares. Shimmering in the heat, a rickety pick-up truck comes through the rubbish dump gates. Toots at the Guard who waves, pulls up in the dump. “Hope Orphanage is written on the side of the van. A man gets out. Looks around. INT. ‘TENT’. DAY. 53 53 Under sheets of plastic propped up on sticks, Jamal and Salim are sleeping out the hottest part of the day. Jamal wakes to see a figure standing over him- a silhouette with a halo of sun behind him. Out of his bag, the man produces a bottle of Thumbs Up. He uncaps it with an alluring hiss. It is almost an advert for thirst-quenching affluence. Almost instinctively, Salim and Jamal stir. MAN Hello. He hands the bottle to Salim, gets another from his bag and waves it questioningly at Jamal. MAN (CONT’D) Hot, huh? My name is Maman. EXT. ORPHANAGE. EVENING. 54 54 The hills on the edge of Bombay. Greenery and space, for the first time in the film. The pick-up truck pulls up outside a building with Jamal, Salim and Latika sitting on a bench in the back. Maman gets out. Drops the gate on the back of the pick-up. MAMAN Anyone hungry? Come on in. 34. CONTINUED: 51 51 INT. ORPHANAGE COURTYARD. EVENING. 55 55 Twenty children are eating at long benches in a ramshackle courtyard. Maman, ushers Jamal, Salim and Latika in and sits them down at one of the benches. He waves a hand and a giant man, Punnoose, comes over with a big bowl of food. The three tear into it. Cleaning every last morsel of rice from his plate, Jamal looks up and notices a table peopled entirely with blind or crippled children. Some of the legless are eating on the floor next to the table. Jamal leans over to Salim. JAMAL He must be a very good man to look after these people. SALIM (glancing at them) A saint. Arvind, a boy smaller than either Jamal or Salim overhears. ARVIND We’re not allowed to talk to them. LATIKA Why not? Arvind shrugs. Latika licks her plate, glances at Maman who is looking right at them. LATIKA (CONT’D) Well, if there are seconds, Maman is definitely a Saint. As if telepathic, Maman signals to Punnoose and he brings a large bowl of rice and dhal over to them. Latika looks at Jamal and Salim. They burst out laughing. LATIKA (CONT’D) I tell you, Lord Siva is with us. INT. ORPHANAGE. EVENING. 56 56 Salim, Latika, Jamal and a group of children are standing in a line singing a doha- ancient lyrics set to music. Maman is leading the singing, walking up and down the line listening to each one individually. He stops at one small boy, Arvind, and listens. Nods his head, pleased, and continues down the line until he stops in front of Jamal. Holds up his hand. MAMAN Stop! You. Again. 35. (CONTINUED) Jamal starts singing again. He has the sweetest of voices. Untrained but pure. Maman smiles, ruffles Jamal’s hair, impressed. MAMAN (CONT’D) Everyone. They all join in. Maman continues down the line. He stops at Salim whose octave-slipping singing is lusty and appallingly out of tune. Maman winces and moves on. Standing next to Salim, Latika giggles. Immediately, Salim is on her. Before a fight breaks out, Punnoose pulls Salim off Latika and hurls him across the room. Salim gets up and charges at Punnoose. For a second, Punnoose is back-footed, but then pins Salim’s arms to his side. Maman laughs. Approaches Salim. MAMAN (CONT’D) You sing like one, and you fight like one. I think you’ve found your dog, Punnoose. EXT. CENTRAL MUMBAI TRAFFIC. DAY. 57 57 A group of children are sitting in the jumble of concrete under a motorway flyover. Cars surround them, bumper to bumper. Latika and Jamal are playing an improvised hopscotch on concrete slabs. They are giggling, bumping into each other, tickling, laughing. Salim and Punnoose are sitting together, smoking. Salim is staring hard at Jamal and Latika until Punnoose grunts, a sign for Salim to clap his hands. SALIM Okay, let’s go, let’s go! It’s not a bloody holiday! The children get to their feet. Latika sighs, puts a patch over her eye and grabs a pair of crutches. Suddenly, the lame beggar. Salim goes over to one of the girls, who is carrying a sleeping baby. Puts out his hand. SALIM (CONT’D) Give me that. The girl shakes her head. Salim grabs her by the hair in one hand and takes the baby with the other. He shoves her to the ground. The other children stare. JAMAL Hey, Salim! He challenges Jamal. SALIM What, choté bhai? You got a problem? 36. CONTINUED: 56 56 (CONTINUED) He laughs and walks over to Latika. SALIM (CONT’D) Here. For you. LATIKA I don’t want it. SALIM You’ll earn double. I’m doing you a favour, Latika. JAMAL She doesn’t want it. SALIM Chup, Jamal. Latika turns away and begins to walk towards the cars. SALIM (CONT’D) I’ll drop it. He holds the baby up. Latika grabs the baby with a cry just as Salim releases it from his hands. Salim pinches the baby. SALIM (CONT’D) Triple if it’s crying. Latika snatches it away. Salim laughs, goes back to sitting with Punnoose. The children scatter to the cars trapped at the lights, tapping plaintively on the windows and making the universal begging gesture. INT. ORPHANAGE. KITCHEN. NIGHT. 58 58 Surrounded by beer bottles, Punnoose is slumped asleep by the kitchen door. Latika edges past, avoids the cook sleeping under the table and goes to a shelf laden with vegetables. She pulls down a bunch of chillies still on the vine, strips a few off and tip-toes out with them. INT. ORPHANAGE. DORMITORY. NIGHT. 59 59 Sleeping children, three or four to a mattress on the floor. Latika tip-toes around the mattresses. She pauses over one in particular where we see Salim, asleep. She carefully pulls up the sheet, delves underneath. Pleasant dreams cross Salim’s sleeping face for a second. Then suddenly, he is bolt upright and screaming. He charges around the room clutching his genitals in agony. SALIM Madher chod...! 37. CONTINUED: 57 57 (CONTINUED) He sprints out of the room, wailing. INT. ORPHANAGE. SHOWERS. NIGHT. 60 60 The lights are on and two dozen children are screaming with laughter as Salim stands under the make-shift shower directing the water down his pants to his burning genitals, his face a picture of agony. Latika wipes crushed chillies from her hands. SALIM You’re dead, sala. She smiles and walks past Jamal with a shrug. Then Punnoose comes stalking in and the children scatter away. PUNNOOSE Get back to bed, dogs! What the hell... JAMAL V/O They taught me every song in the history of Indian music. INSPECTOR V/O And why would they do that, I wonder? INT. SHACK. NIGHT. 61 61 In a shack, Arvind is singing one of Surdas’ bhajans in front of Maman and an old man who by his ragged appearance must be a villager. Punnoose and Salim sit behind Arvind. MAMAN Very good, very good. I am pleased, Arvind. He is ready. ARVIND Ready? Maman nods to Punnoose. Before Arvind can turn round, Punnoose has covered his mouth with a cloth and after the briefest of struggles, Arvind’s body goes limp. The villager puts an old tin box on the table. Taking the lid from the tin, he brings out a cloth and unwraps it. Inside is a spoon. He checks the edge with his thumb. Sharp. Douses it with a clear liquid from a bottle and passes it over a candle flame. The spoon whooshes with a high flame for a moment. The villager wipes it with the cloth nods to Punnoose. PUNNOOSE Salim! 38. CONTINUED: 59 59 (CONTINUED) Utterly bemused, Salim nevertheless helps Punnoose lay Arvind on the table. The villager takes hold of Arvind’s eyelid and pulls it open. He brings the spoon close. Suddenly, Salim is being sick in the corner of the shack. By the time he has turned back, the villager is wiping the spoon on a blood-soaked rag. MAMAN Okay. Take him out the back. Punnoose picks up Arvind and carries him out. MAMAN (CONT’D) Now the other one. Salim, go get Jamal. A frozen moment. SALIM What? MAMAN Gunfighter Number One, isn’t that right, Salim? The money, the women, the cars...you want them bad, huh? And why not? Maman gets out of his chair. Approaches Salim. MAMAN (CONT’D) The time has come to choose, yaar. The life of a slum dog or the life of a man. A real man. A gunfighter, Salim. Maman holds Salim’s head in his hands. MAMAN (CONT’D) Your destiny is in your hands, bhai. You can be me. Or nobody. Understand? SALIM Yes, Maman. Maman nods. MAMAN So, brother, go get Jamal. Salim is frozen for another few seconds, then turns and walks out of the door. Punnoose appears at the door. Maman nods to him and he slips off after Salim. INT. DORMITORY, ORPHANAGE. NIGHT. 62 62 All the children are asleep apart from Jamal who is crouched underneath a couple of wash-basins. 39. CONTINUED: 61 61 (CONTINUED) He is talking through a plate-sized hole in the crumbling masonry. Latika’s eyes can be seen. JAMAL ...weddings, government things, big parties. If Maman says my voice is ready. Big money. LATIKA Enough for a room? JAMAL Easily. Maybe an apartment. LATIKA Really? JAMAL That’s what Arvind said. On Harbour Road. You, me and Salim. The three musketeers. LATIKA Harbour Road! We can have ice cream from Babanji’s. JAMAL Every day if we want. Salim appears at the door. Nods his head at Jamal. JAMAL (CONT’D) It’s my turn. LATIKA Good luck, Jamal. Latika’s hand comes through the gap. Jamal takes it for a moment. Salim hisses at Jamal. He lets go of the hand and heads out. EXT. PATH. NIGHT. 63 63 Salim and Jamal walk along the path, Jamal humming happily. Salim checks behind him, sees Punnoose following. JAMAL So, this is it, hey, bhai? The good life, here we come.... SALIM (conversationally) Athos. Jamal is suddenly alert. Slows 40. CONTINUED: 62 62 (CONTINUED) JAMAL Porthos? Salim nods. Big smile. Puts a hand on Jamal’s shoulder. SALIM When I say. INT. SHACK. NIGHT. 64 64 Salim guides Jamal into the shack where Maman and the Villager are waiting. Maman smiles. Punnoose slips in behind Salim. MAMAN Jamal, hello. You have done well. It’s time for you to- turn professional. JAMAL Really? MAMAN Sing me a song, yaar. How about Chalo Ri Murali, huh? My favourite. Jamal opens his mouth, then closes it again. Holds out his hand. JAMAL Fifty rupees. MAMAN What? JAMAL (shrugs) I’ve turned professional. What can I do? Maman laughs. MAMAN Sala...! He throws some notes at him. EXT. SHACK. NIGHT. 65 65 Outside, a giggle. Latika is peering through a gap in the wall. 41. CONTINUED: 63 63 INT. SHACK. NIGHT. 66 66 Jamal begins to sing. Maman waits a while, then nods to Punnoose. Behind Jamal, Punnoose hands Salim the bottle of chloroform and the rag. Salim approaches the back of Jamal. Salim waits until he has finished the song. Raises his hand with the rag in it. Maman smiles, nods. Salim flings the contents of the bottle in Punnoose’s face. Punnoose screams and stumbles back clutching his eyes, knocking over the table. SALIM Go! Salim and Jamal scramble for the door. The knocked-over candle catches the spilled chloroform and a curtain which whooshes up in flame. LATIKA Jamal! JAMAL Run! EXT. SHACK. NIGHT. 66A 66A They charge past the prone Arvind- a flash of bloodied bandages covering his eyes. EXT. HILLSIDE. NIGHT. 67 67 Heavy, desperate breathing. Feet stumble on roots. Fall into holes. The three children are running. Branches smack into their faces. But they are so scared, nothing will stop them. Behind them, torches scour the undergrowth. Men shouting. They break out of the woods and are confronted with a train goods yard. EXT. GOODS YARD. NIGHT. 68 68 They run over the tracks, between the trains, but the shouts are getting louder, the torches closer. A diesel engine is moving out of the station. Jamal, Latika and Salim sprint for the Guard’s Van at the very back of the moving train. Punnoose is closest to them. Salim is fastest and first to jump the train. He holds out his hand. Jamal grabs it and is hauled in. Jamal holds his hand out to Latika. JAMAL Come on! Faster! She reaches out to him. Their hands almost touch. 42. (CONTINUED) JAMAL (CONT’D) Take it! Take it! I can’t reach... Salim barges Jamal out of the way. Jamal stumbles back as Salim reaches his hand out to Latika, so he doesn’t see Latika’s hand grasp Salim’s, nor see their eyes lock onto each other, nor see Salim very deliberately let go of her hand. Latika stumbles. LATIKA Jamal! Jamal scrambles to the rail. The train gains more speed. Jamal climbs on to the top rung, makes to jump, but Salim flings him backward. Jamal tries to scramble to his feet again, but Salim restrains him. JAMAL Got to go back. We’ve got to go back. SALIM He’ll kill us if we go back. Jamal! He was going to take your eyes out- with a bloody spoon! The train is speeding along. Jamal breaks free and stares back at Latika. SALIM (CONT’D) She’ll be alright. She always is. Latika stumbles again and stops running. They watch as Punnoose catches up with her and stops running. He smashes Latika to the ground. INT. STUDIO. NIGHT. 69 69 PREM The question was, for two hundred and fifty thousand rupees: who wrote the famous song Chalo Ri Murali. I should warn you, Jamal: from this question on, if you get the answer wrong you lose everything. So. Are you sure? The life-lines are there.... JAMAL Surdas. PREM Surdas. Apka final jawab? 43. CONTINUED: 68 68 (CONTINUED) JAMAL Yes. PREM Computer-ji, A lock kiya-jaye. The lights dim, the music swells. Prem presses a button on his computer: looks him straight in the eyes for an age. PREM (CONT’D) (simply) Guess what? You’re right. Applause, music, lights. INT. INSPECTOR’S OFFICE. DAY. 70 70 The Inspector is eying Jamal, weighing it all up. JAMAL (shrugging) Blind singers earn double. You know that. INSPECTOR And what happened to the girl? They blinded her too? JAMAL (shakes his head) They had other plans. Though it took me a long, long time to find out. EXT. TRAIN. MORNING. 71 71 Salim and Jamal are sitting on top of the train. Jamal is staring blankly down the track. SALIM Aré, Jamal... Salim puts an arm around Jamal’s shoulder. Jamal wipes the tears from his eyes, shakes his head furiously. Salim gets up. Holds out his hand. SALIM (CONT’D) Come. JAMAL Where you going? SALIM First class, bhai. Where else? 44. CONTINUED: 69 69 INT/ EXT. FIRST CLASS CARRIAGE. MORNING. 72 72 The ancient train is huffing slowly up an incline. A middle class Indian couple with their three children are sitting at a table, their breakfast spread before them. Into this domestic scene, unseen by them comes Jamal. Upside down and still outside the train, he is clearly being dangled by his ankles from the train roof. He gives a few, silent directional signs to Salim who manoeuvres him across, dips his hand into the open window, snatches a chapatti and signals franticly to be hoisted up. The family continue to eat, unperturbed. Then Jamal appears again. This time one of the children spots him. Despite Jamal giving her a friendly wave, she yelps. The father of the group grabs Jamal’s hand which has just snatched a samosa. There is a tussle, Salim holding onto Jamal’s legs, the father holding onto Jamal’s arms and Jamal in the middle, shouting. Salim is losing the battle and his footing. He stumbles and the pair of them fall from the train, rolling and tumbling down an embankment in slow-motion. Interspersed with the seemingly endless tumble are images of Jamal and Salim on top of different trains- - huddled together against the freezing rain... - surfing the wind at the front of the train... - admiring the distant Himalaya.... JAMAL V/O We criss-crossed the country from Rajasthan to Calcutta. Every time we were thrown off we got back on again. This was our home for years. A home with wheels and a whistle. The final tumble as they crash onto flat ground. EXT. RAILWAY EMBANKMENT. DAY. 73 73 Groggily, Jamal sits up and groans. Somehow in the tumble, he has been transformed into a twelve year-old. And Salim a strong fourteen year-old. Through the haze of pain and dust, Jamal sees something glinting in the distance- something impossibly beautiful. JAMAL Salim? Is this heaven? SALIM You’re not dead, Jamal. Jamal clears his head. Sees Salim picking himself up from the ground. But the apparition is still there. 45. (CONTINUED) JAMAL So what’s that? SALIM Wow. They stare at the apparition. The unmistakable outline of the Taj Mahal rises from the horizon, pink in the morning sun. Nothing could be more beautiful. JAMAL Some hotel, huh? EXT. TAJ MAHAL. DAY. 74 74 Jamal and Salim wander under the great dome of the Taj Mahal. Two tiny slum kids dwarfed by this massive monument to love. It is a moment of genuine wonderment for them. Then a tour guide bustles nearby, tourists flowing behind him. GUIDE ...there are five main elements to the Taj. The Darwaza, the main gateway, the Bageecha or garden, the Masjid or mosque, the Naqqar Khana, the rest house and the Rauza or mausoleum. If you would like to follow me, I will show you the ninety-nine names of Allah on Mumtaz’s tomb. As before, please remove your shoes. Jamal follows the Guide and his entourage into the mausoleum. Salim meanwhile is studying the line of shoes. Tries a smart pair of women’s court shoes, before slipping a foot into a nice, white sneaker. A smile crosses his face. His other foot quickly follows and he saunters away, all mock-innocence. EXT. TAJ MAHAL. DAY 75 75 Jamal comes out of the mausoleum into the bright sunlight and looks around for Salim. No sign of him. Suddenly, a German couple approach. ADA Please, what time is the next tour? JAMAL Err- PETER - so much waiting around in this damned country. 46. CONTINUED: 73 73 (CONTINUED) Jamal notices that he is standing next to a sign advertising guided tours of the Taj. JAMAL No, IADA - we’re on a very tight schedule, you see, young man. Have to see the Red Fort this afternoon. Would it be possible to show us around now? Obviously we understand it would cost more for just the two of us... Peter waves a couple of thousand rupee notes at Jamal. His eyes widen. JAMAL But of course, Madam. Please follow me. Jamal stalks off. The Germans follow. Jamal stops before the monument. Points a confident arm at it. JAMAL (CONT’D) This is....the Taj Mahal. A terrible pause as Peter and Ada stare at him. Clearly more is expected. He moves off at a pace. JAMAL (CONT’D) The Taj Mahal was built by the Emperor Khurram for his wife Mumtaz who was maximum beautiful woman in the whole world. When she died, the Emperor decided to build this five star hotel for everyone who wanted to visit her tomb...but he died in- in fifteen eighty-seven, before any of the rooms were built. Or the lifts. The swimming pool, however, as you can see was completed on schedule in top class fashion. He waves confidently in the direction of the fountains. ADA It says nothing of this in the guide book. JAMAL With respect, Madam, the guide book is written by a bunch of lazy, good-for-nothing, Indian beggars. 47. CONTINUED: 75 75 (CONTINUED) ADA Oh. JAMAL And this, Lady and Gentleman, is burial place of Mumtaz. ADA How did she die? JAMAL A road traffic accident. ADA Really? JAMAL Maximum pile-up. PETER (suspicious) I thought she died in childbirth. JAMAL (nodding sagely) Exactly, Sir. She was on the way to the hospital when it happened. Jamal moves on. Ada and Peter exchan

Volunteer Abroad as an Atlas Corps Fellow

By Atlas Corps on Feb 6, 2009, 09:06.

Atlas Service Corps seeks nonprofit leaders from around the world to apply for their 2009-2010 fellowship positions in Washington, DC and Bogota, Colombia. All expenses are paid in this prestigious, fellowship program, including a living stipend, health insurance, visa, travel, training, and a $2,500 end of service award. Applicants must have 3 or more years of experience in the nonprofit sector, a college degree, fluency in English (and Spanish if applying to volunteer in Colombia), and a commitment to returning to their home country after one year. Candidates from outside the U.S. are placed at outstanding host organizations in Washington, DC including Ashoka, Asian American LEAD, CentroNía, Grameen Foundation, and Population Action International. Candidates from the U.S. are placed at organizations in Bogota like Give to Colombia and Oxfam GB. In addition to volunteering full time at their host organizations, Fellows are enrolled in a management development training program and join a growing network of nonprofit leaders from around the world. For more details about eligibility requirements and the application process, please visit: www.atlascorps.org/apply.html. The deadline to apply is April 1, 2009.

What is good in Goa?

By AlaOrde on Jan 14, 2009, 10:19.

I'll be in Goa in March. Other than the beach just wondering if anyone had other things to do/see.

Reserving a baby bassinet for flight to India with Jet Airways

By Peter on Dec 29, 2008, 04:22.

I called Jet Airways (our carrier to Mumbai) today (contact information here: http://www.jetairways.com/Cultures/en-US/Europe/About+Us/Our+Offices/JetTPLOurOffice.htm, they have offices in most countries. The number in Brussels is 02 709 09 09). I asked them for a baby basket (a "bassinet"), which would make our trip MUCH easier (see http://poorbuthappy.com/travel-with-kids/post/long-flights-with-a-baby/), they agreed immediately (no questions about age or weight of the baby) to put in the request, and asked me to call back tomorrow to get a confirmation. One less thing to worry about :)

Slumdog Millionaire

By houstongal on Dec 22, 2008, 11:02.

If this movie is playing in your city, I highly recommend seeing it. I was blown away by the story and I felt like I was back in Mumbai. Basically the story is about a boy from the slums in Mumbai who goes on to become a winning contestant on "Who Wants to Be a Millionaire." But how is it that an uneducated boy from the slums would know the answers to the questions? It's not for the faint of heart. My niece went to see it with me and she now doesn't think she'll want to go to India. It pretty accurately depicted life in India (from my limited knowledge) and all it needed was the smells. The movie is up for 4 Golden Globe awards, including Best Picture. That's pretty good for a foreign film. It is mostly in English, although it can be difficult to understand Indian English at times.

Bentley's hotel, Mumbai, India

By Peter on Dec 16, 2008, 11:40.

I'm considering staying at Bentley's hotel http://www.bentleyshotel.com with my wife and toddler. It gets high marks as a budget place from Lonely Planet, but I wonder how "clean"/"nice" it is to go with a toddler? Anyone been there?

The India travel scene

By Peter on Dec 14, 2008, 00:12.

Good description of the Indian travel scene on Freeman's blog: http://wheresfreeman.blogspot.com/2008/12/india-travel-scene.html

Hot of the presses: now 6 months!

By Peter on Dec 7, 2008, 12:43.

It's not for sure yet, but after the 1-month in India with our toddler, we're now planning to also spend the second half of the year in India. 6 months! Yes, that's crazy. More later.

The top 5 India travel forums

By Peter on Dec 7, 2008, 12:23.

If you're preparing your trip, there's nothing like a forum with knowledgable members that can answer your questions. I've done a lot of searching on the web, joining different forums, and these are, according to me, the 5 best Indian travel forums. I've picked forums focused on travelers (backpack-style). #5 Bootsnal's Asia forum isn't focused on just India, but it's pretty good anyways: http://boards.bootsnall.com/eve/forums/a/frm/f/448097925 #4 This very forum. I've put it at nr.5 because we're just getting started :) #3 http://www.theindiatree.com smart posts and reasonably active, this is a great start. #2 The thorn tree India: http://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/forum.jspa?forumID=16 Lonely Planet's travel forum is a long time favourite: well moderated, good insights. #1 http://www.indiamike.com Probably the best forum out there right now, they have a few (not many) hostel reviews too, and are very, very knowledgable. Forums that didn't make it: http://www.indiatravelforum.com is just a commercial trap, http://forum.virtualtourist.com/forum-1495-1-Travel-India--forum.html has some good posts but is way too commercial too (with popups and stuff). Travelblog's India forum http://www.travelblog.org/Forum/Threads/13862-1.html is kinda spammy and unmoderated.

Toddler to India

By Peter on Dec 1, 2008, 11:01.

Today the little one and me got 1 vaccination each :) It's only fair! The doctor also reassured me about taking a toddler to India, because I was getting a bit worried.. I'm also checking out places to stay, gonna try to book something soon.

State Dept. Travel Warnings India (Nov. 28, 2008)

By Gary Bala on Nov 28, 2008, 10:26.

November 28, 2008 The Department of State warns U.S. citizens about heightened security concerns in India, and advises U.S. citizens traveling to or already in India to maintain a high level of vigilance and to take appropriate steps to increase their security awareness. This Travel Alert expires on December 31, 2008. There are heightened security concerns in India following the November 26 terrorist attacks on hotels, a railway station, restaurant, hospital, and other locations in Mumbai frequented by Westerners. Over 100 persons are believed to have been killed, and hundreds injured. Casualties include both Indian and foreign nationals. Americans appear to have been among those specifically targeted. U.S. citizens should exercise caution and take prudent security measures, including maintaining a high level of vigilance, avoiding crowds and demonstrations, keeping a low profile, varying times and routes for all travel, and ensuring travel documents are current. In the aftermath of the terrorist attacks, the Department of State urged Americans to defer travel to Mumbai for at least 48-72 hours. American citizens in need of assistance related to the terrorist attacks should call the Department of State or the U.S. Consulate in Mumbai. Americans throughout India should be vigilant about security at all times. The Embassy and Consulates are actively assessing the countrywide security environment. Americans are advised to monitor local news reports, vary their routes and times in carrying out daily activities, and consider the level of security present when visiting public places, including religious sites, or hotels, restaurants, entertainment and recreation venues. If unattended packages are spotted, American citizens should immediately exit the area and report the packages to authorities. For the latest security information, Americans traveling abroad should regularly monitor the Department's Internet web site at http://travel.state.gov where the current Worldwide Caution, Travel Warnings, and Travel Alerts can be found. Up-to-date information on security can also be obtained by calling 1-888-407-4747 toll free in the United States and Canada or, for callers outside the United States and Canada, a regular toll line at 1-202-501-4444. These numbers are available from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. Eastern Time, Monday through Friday (except U.S. federal holidays). Americans are also encouraged to read the Country Specific Information for India, available on the Embassy's website at http://newdelhi.usembassy.gov, and also at http://travel.state.gov. U.S. citizens living or traveling abroad are encouraged to register with the nearest U.S. Embassy or Consulate through the State Department's travel registration web site at https://travelregistration.state.gov/ibrs/ui/ so that they can obtain updated information on travel and security. Americans without Internet access may register directly with the nearest U.S. Embassy or Consulate. By registering, American citizens make it easier for the Embassy or Consulate to contact them in case of emergency. For additional information, please refer to "A Safe Trip Abroad" found at http://travel.state.gov. U.S. citizens may contact the American Citizens Services Unit of the Embassy or the Consulates General for further information: -- The U.S. Embassy in New Delhi is located at Shanti Path, Chanakya Puri 110021; telephone +91-11-2419-8000; fax +91-11-2419-8407. The Embassy's Internet home page address is http://newdelhi.usembassy.gov. -- The U.S. Consulate General in Mumbai (Bombay) is located at Lincoln House, 78 Bhulabhai Desai Road, 400026, telephone +91-22-2363-3611; fax +91-22-2363-0350. The Internet home page address is http://mumbai.usconsulate.gov. -- The U.S. Consulate General in Chennai (Madras) is at 220 Anna Salai, Gemini Circle, 600006, telephone +91-44-2857-4000; fax +91-44-2811-2027. The Internet home page address is http://chennai.usconsulate.gov. -- The U.S. Consulate General in Kolkata (Calcutta) is at 5/1 Ho Chi Minh Sarani, 700071; telephone +91-33-3984-2400; fax +91-33-2282-2335. The Internet home page address is http://kolkata.usconsulate.gov

Terrorist attack in Mumbai

By huskie on Nov 26, 2008, 12:11.

There was a terror attack just announced in Mumbai, so just be careful if you are going to be in the area. Apparently, there have been threats of a terror attack within the last 24 hours. So far 80 people are reported dead and some people might have been taken hostage including many foreigners Cheers

Travel with young children/babies

By Peter on Nov 25, 2008, 11:56.

I found this story which is pretty good: http://www.indiamike.com/india-articles/10_travelling-in-india-with-kids/

Cheap Air Fares??? To Bombay

By AlaOrde on Nov 24, 2008, 11:57.

Anyone have any good places for cheap airfares to Bombay from Philadelphia, Newark, or New York City. The trip would be about ten people in March from lets say the 6-18th of March. I have a couple places that I have used in my two prior trips but wanted to see if anyone had better. Thanks

Lasik surgery in New Delhi

By rhydewithdis on Nov 24, 2008, 10:31.

Can anyone recommend a good doctor and/or clinic in New Delhi to get Lasik surgery performed? Thanks in advance.

I'd like to teach English in India and live there for a while

By fercho100 on Nov 23, 2008, 00:04.

I'd like to know more about India and the possibilities to establish myself in India. I'm a US citizen. I was born in Colombia South America. I speak English and Spanish. In order to make a living I would like to teach English. I have 5 years experience teaching ESL, Any ideas or recommendations? Thanks, Fernando

Oh yes we just bought a TICKET!

By Peter on Nov 22, 2008, 12:16.

I've visited India twice now, but never with my wife or my daughter. And I've always dreamed of taking her and the kid to India, renting a place for a few weeks, hanging out, doing yoga, eating Indian food, taking a few sidetrips, it just sounds fantastic. And today WE BOUGHT THE TICKETS! They were really affordable too. My kid will be less than 2 years old when we travel, so she flies for almost free (another reason to go NOW). I am in Belgium now, I called Airstop (http://www.airstop.be/) to ask about a ticket, they're really the best. They charge a flat 10$ fee, and for that they really spend as much time as needed (over 30 minutes in this case) to find you the best ticket. The person on the phone had visited India with her kids too, and even gave some good tips :) So if you're in Belgium, check them out. The tickets are for a month (wooooooo! a month! :), and they were 1250 euro for the 3 (!) of us, return from Brussels to Mumbai, direct flights with no stops (that would suck with a baby). That's pretty good in my book, especially since India is so cheap that our say there should be very affordable. I'm just very excited! Now we need to make a plan. Any tips for a family with a baby and a month to spend in India?

Traveling in Jodhpur

By Peter on Nov 18, 2008, 03:25.

Good blogpost with pictures on Jodhpur: http://traveholic.wordpress.com/2008/10/19/celebrating-culture/ "At Mandore, a hundred monkeys – locals – are waiting along with the tourists - outsiders - for the performances to begin, munching in a distracted fashion on the peanuts thrown their way. To pass the time, they eye our cameras and play hide and seek behind the trees that have grown in profusion all over the garden. [...] However, the most picturesque venue for the festival, indeed the most picturesque spot in Jodhpur, even when there is no festival is the Mehrangarh Fort. The heart of what was the fortified city of Jodhpur, Mehrangarh was built in 1459 by Raja Rao Jodha (after whom the city is named). In a state where every few hundred kilometres boasts of a fort, Mehrangrah is still something special, seeming to rise as it does out of thin air."

Local languages in Rhajastan: Marwari

By Peter on Nov 18, 2008, 03:22.

Good post on local languages in Rajastan: http://travel.paintedstork.com/blog/2008/10/rajasthan-marwari-language.html "But Rajasthan's primary language is Marwari. If you go deeper into the desert, its not hard to find elderly people and women who speak Marwarai alone and nothing else. Raju himself uses Marwari when he speaks to people he knows, or when he is at home. Talking at length about the local language with him, I learn that Marwari is not taught in schools, and children begin their learning with Hindi. The state machinery too, uses Hindi as the primary language. It comes for a surprise me, having hailed from south where all the states are keen to maximize utilization of their own language, or at least pretend to." The diversity of languages is one of the great joys (and frustrations too of course) of traveling in India.

India will mark Gandhi anniversary (today) with world's biggest smoking ban

By Peter on Oct 2, 2008, 03:14.

More on this here: http://blogsearch.google.com/blogsearch/story?hl=en&bcid=1225611901&bc_lang=en No more smokin' in India!

Lots of windows and doors pictures, in Triplicane

By Peter on Sep 30, 2008, 04:43.

Triplicane is in South India, close to Chennai. Apart from the usual stuff, it also has some great doors and windows. This post has loads of pictures: http://backpakker.blogspot.com/2008/09/india-through-my-eyes-windows-and-doors.html And here's a map: http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Triplicane,+india&ie=UTF8&ll=13.047372,80.288086&spn=11.689017,23.115234&z=6

Masroor (India) inspired Angkorvat (Cambodia)?

By Peter on Sep 30, 2008, 04:39.

Seems that the little known Masroor temple complex looks a lot like the famous Angkorvat (in Cambodia). The Masroor temple complex is in Himachal Pradesh ( near Kangra - 20kms and Dharamsala - 45 kms). More here: http://backpakker.blogspot.com/2008/09/post-from-guest-blogger-was-this.html (and pictures!) That's what I like: discovering little known temple complexes. :)

Guy Kawasaki on Mumbai

By Peter on Sep 28, 2008, 00:27.

Great post with lotsa pictures on Mumbai: http://blog.guykawasaki.com/2008/09/guy-in-mumbai.html Use it for travel planning :)

Fort Kochi

By Peter on Sep 23, 2008, 05:58.

Great blogpost about Kochi. I visited Kochi, liked it a lot. Way different from Northern India. http://realtravel.com/fort_kochi-journals-j6850514.html

A great photo essay on Amritsar

By Peter on Sep 22, 2008, 02:22.

Check it out: http://traveholic.wordpress.com/2008/09/11/all-that-glitters/

1 Rupee bus ride

By Peter on Sep 22, 2008, 01:54.

From http://seven-sisters.blogspot.com/2008/09/1-rupee-volvo-joyride-in-bangalore.html You can ride a new bus for 1 roupie (which is like, nothing), much cheaper than even usual busfares, in Bangalore.

The staring question

By Peter on Jun 15, 2008, 12:02.

I know the staring question is an old one: when you travel in India, in many places, you'll find people just staring at you, extensively. It's weird. Has this happened to you, and any theories as to why?

Special Opportunity for NGO leaders from India to go to the U.S.

By scottbeale50 on Mar 26, 2008, 17:39.

Here is an opportunity PBH readers in India may be interested in. There is no cost to participate in this (i am not selling anything) this like a scholarship, or a Fulbright, it is a new, elite fellowship for nonprofit leaders from India (and Colombia) to go to the U.S. and for U.S. nonprofit leaders to go to Colombia: Paid Fellowships in Latin America and the U.S. for Leaders from U.S., Colombia, Ecuador and India! http://www.atlascorps.org/apply.html Atlas Corps seeks rising nonprofit leaders from the U.S. to volunteer in Bogota, Colombia and nonprofit leaders from Colombia, Ecuador and India to volunteer in Washington, DC USA. This is a paid fellowship opportunity. Candidates are encouraged to apply as soon as possible and the final deadline is April 20. Please forward this email to other lists, so as many people as possible can find out about this unique opportunity! http://www.atlascorps.org/apply.html Atlas Corps sends globetrotting world changers overseas for one year to Host organizations in Washington, DC and Bogota, Colombia to volunteer, learn, teach, grow, contribute and then return home. We pay all expenses, including a modest living stipend, health insurance and a $2,500 end of service award. Interested? Please go online to learn more: http://www.atlascorps.org/apply.html Atlas Corps is creating a global network of rising nonprofit leaders who are working together to solve the world's most pressing challenges. This is an opportunity to learn from fantastic Host organizations, participate in a high quality management development program and learn from your peers around the world addressing global social issues. Are you a globetrotting world changer? Do you know someone in Colombia, Ecuador, India or the United States who might be? Please go online to learn more: http://www.atlascorps.org/apply.html

chimney liner depot

By madison833 on Mar 12, 2008, 10:46.

I am looking to set up a chimney liner depot in Mumbai. I don't know much about the laws of manufacturing in India. Could someone please offer some input.

Bloggers sleep free in India

By Peter on Oct 7, 2007, 00:58.

Via Perceptive travel: Bloggers sleep free in India: "there's a new website that will help you out if you're looking for a free place to stay in India. ExtraBed.in is a portal that connects bloggers from India and around the world, with the Indian bloggers offering others a spare bed for a night or more in cities and towns across India." If anyone uses this I'd love to hear about it! Reuters has a story: http://in.reuters.com/article/lifestyleMolt/idINDEL24644220070928?sp=true However, when they say "Hotel rooms in India tend to be expensive and hard to find", I say "Hahahahaha", what are you talking about??

Goa start

By Peter on Aug 24, 2007, 04:14.

I made a start with the Goa guide :)

Maps

By Peter on Aug 2, 2007, 09:56.

I added some small maps to the India guides to indicate where things are in India (I think it makes helps?) :)

My first trip to India

By Peter on Aug 2, 2007, 02:50.

My first big travel trip outside of Europe was to India, and I still remember the day I arrived in Mumbai (Bombay then). On the taxi ride from the airport, I looked my eyes out, everything was colorful, everything was foreign. And it stayed that way, I could never get over how colorful India really was. I'm not sure if it made such a big impression on me because it was my first big trip, or because India really is that intense, I guess a bit of both. What was your first visit to India like?

Newbie at large!

By BaJaHa on Jul 31, 2007, 08:44.

Hi all. This is my first post here in the India forum, I hope to add many more in future.When I get some time I will give some of my impressions of India since retiring here, it's a country that begs to be written about and if I were to spend the remainder of my life writing, I would not even scratch the surface. Anyway, I love India and the Indian people, I am trying to learn the Devanagari script and will try the language later. By for now, regard to all. Barry

Indian literature

By Man Tequila on Jul 27, 2007, 21:49.

Wondering if anyone else is a fan of Indian literature? One of the best things about India are the book stores... huge selection, very cheap prices, and full of great books by popular Indian authors. And since time goes slowly in parts of India, lots of time to enjoy works like Karma Cola (by Gita Mehta), The God of Small Things (by Arundhati Roy), In Custody (by Anita Desai), In A Free State (by Nobel prize winner VS Naipaul), Shame (by Salman Rushdie) or A Suitable Boy (by Vikram Seth). Any other fans out there?

First India post yey

By Peter on Jul 25, 2007, 08:46.

India was the first really foreign (not-europe) country I traveled to, and it left a deep impression on me. I spent 4 weeks, and then changed my ticked to stay 2 more weeks. It was really incredible, and still is. Anyone else has been there?