éphémère couture

Drafting a sports bra pattern

2016-03-10T12:44:00.003+01:00

Sports bra!

yes, I am currently trying to get some muscles into that body, and guess what, it's a great opportunity to sew! Because apparently now when I see something I like in a shop, the first thing that comes to my mind is :" I could so make that", not:"I am going to buy that". It seems I really don't want to make my life easy.

So there you go, I made a sports bra, and you know what? It was super fun!

Obviously I went a little crazy with my fabric, but I will say that every time I put it on, it makes me smile. So, yes, I am saying it: "I love leopard prints!!".

I searched for a polyester fabric with approximately 10% elasthanne. I just checked on a sports gear catalogue, and this is the percentage used in all bra sports, so there you go.
The white fabric was in my stash. I use it for underwear or swimwear, it's quite sturdy and firm with a good recovery.

At first, I thought using just an elastic for the straps would be enough, but ah no. I was soo wrong. There was no support at all. So I had to design something strong enough to keep everything in place. And this is what I came up with.

Blurry picture anyone?

My pattern was designed for a small elastic strap. I was so lucky that I got to correct my mistake.
I have used the bra a few time now, and it's good, it's really good. It makes me happy because when I had the idea to make a sports bra, of course I wanted to wear it immediately, but it took me a few hours to make the block pattern, then to create the pattern for my project, and then to create the straps.
Haaaaa, I was frustrated.
Really.
But then sewing it was quite quick, and easy. And finally when I got to try it and it fitted good and it looked nice, I was so pleased. Now I can make as much as I need!

Here is how I drafted my pattern:

I used ESMOD's method for underwear pattern drafting. I can't say that I love their method for drafting panties, but the bra part is good.

As usual with the flat pattern technique you take your basic pattern. In these case the basic bra.
I have put all my pieces on one sheet of paper and put it under plastic for frequent use.

Then I use tracing paper to copy the base in order to modify it.

The book explains how to make a real sports bra. By this I mean a bra with two cups, similar to a "normal" bra, but without underwires.

This is not really what I wanted to make. But I still traced the pieces, and then assembled them in a manner I thought would be suitable for what in French we call a "brassière". I think in English it could be translated in: bralette. For inspiration I took a look at the selection at Forever 21 and they call them sports bra, so, OK, there is maybe no special word for it.

This is what my basic pattern looks like. I really followed the instructions of the book, the only thing I changed is the width of the band. I enlarged it to accommodate a 3 cm (1,18") elastic.

Then I took this basic sports bra pattern and modified it. Above is my final pattern. two pieces for the breast, and a band for the elastic. My problem was then do draft the back.

I hope you can see clearly on this pictures. I used my Esmod bust block pattern. And tried to place my bra pieces as best I could, so that I could draw any shape of back, straps, front neckline, and still have a good fit in relation to a sports bra. It has been really helpful.

Preparation takes time, and it got me frustrated, but I shouldn't have been. It's really useful, and now I can use it again to draft very rapidly any sports bra I dream of.

In this picture you can see that my pattern piece on top has little folds.
This is a crucial step when you design with stretch fabrics that will be stretched during use. You have to shrink them by the percentage of stretch in you fabric.
It's a bit of a pain, but héhé, no pain no gain.

Here you can see the three pieces of the back.
The fabric don't have the same "hand", so the shrinkage is different.

I really enjoy making my own patterns, and if this is something you would like to do then go for it!
It's fun, it makes you think, your clothes are really made to your measures and it fits perfectly.
Of course it's quite a time investment, What I try to do is to build a stock of basic patterns, that can be modified easily and quickly. I am getting there. And I feel so proud to be able to wear clothes entirely made by me, and it's really fun sometimes to copy designers clothes for a tenth of what they cost in stores!

Finally here are some inside pics, because we all love that! Sewing porn right?

I lined everything with mesh. I thought it would give more support. The raw edges were finished with a simple binding. There are lots of methods to do this. You can check out Megan's way. Then I simply top stitched with a zigzag. I can't believe a few years back, I would have never used a zigzag because I wanted a clean look with no visible stitches. What was I thinking? Top stitching is fun, I don't know why but it is, and top stitching with a zigzag is double fun!

That's it. I hope I am beginning to tempt you to try to make your own patterns. If I can do it, anybody can!
Buy pattern making books and join me! I really wish to share my experience and maybe help or inspire some of you into making beautiful, made to measure clothes. Any kind of clothes you can think of!

This sports bra was just a first attempt. Next time I will change the pattern a little, I already have ideas.
Soon I will explain how to make your own panties. It's really easy. And this time no need to buy any book.

Cheers!

A Downton Abbey inspired blouse

2016-02-25T18:14:00.003+01:00

As you know, I am a fervent watcher of Downton Abbey. Of course the beautiful fashion is one of the things that attracts me most. And Quite often I found myself thinking: "oh, what a beautiful coat, or dress? How could I make something quite similar but, who would not appear too dated or costumy?"

My inspiration was this very simple, yet elegant top. I wanted a similar collar and shape.

And I really don't know why, but I really wanted it to be in that fabric. Two metres of viscose for 12 euros, I really love Toto soldes!

Here is what I came up with:

Ok, so I don't why I look soooo weird in all the pictures, but that's all I got, so sorry, not sorry, my camera guy is the one to blame, not my poor face...

Back to the sewing part. I made a princess seam pattern. You can see it in the front photos: the lace follows the seam.

I also used princess seams at the back, but it is completely lost in the pattern of the fabric. No lace at the back because the blouse is for winter, it is worn with a cardigan, so no one would see it, and I was not sure it would be comfortable against a chair.

I am still in the process of finding the perfect shape of sleeve. It's getting there. This top actually feels quite comfy. The arm reach is good, no restriction there. But the cap of the sleeve too high. There are a few puckers at the shoulder seam. But you can't see it because of all the beautiful flowers hehe.

Ha, a close up. I am so proud of my pretty collar, it's exactly the same as Cora's.
I like to have standing collars in my winter blouses. I think it's nice with a cardigan. But sometimes it bothers me, because there are not so many shapes of standing collars. Maybe I should try to experiment with colours.

The lace is attached only on one side at the front, it's easier to contour the shape of the bust.

At the wrist and at the bottom of the blouse, I created a seam, so that you can see through the lace. In all honesty, I find that my blouse is not as chic as Cora's. If it was in the show, I am pretty sure, that Daisy would wear it! But don't get me wrong, I really like it.

I did a very simple opening at the back. The middle back seam stops at approximately 13 centimetres from the the neckline. The fabric is just folded, pressed and then stitched. And it is closed with a covered button and a small loop of fabric. The inside is really neat, all the other seams are French seams.

And guess who would really like my blouse?

http://hrhduchesskate.blogspot.fr/2016/02/kate-edits-huffington-post-in-support.html

Oh yeah! Haha! See what she was wearing just last week?

And now, because I know you really love those, a blurry picture!

That's it for today. I am actually still sewing a few different shirts. I am trying to have a bunch of patterns that fit perfectly with an attractive design. So that I can use them again and again. And also try to get rid of a few UFOS and resizing a few dresses and skirts. There are not enough hours in one day!

Cheers

Fred models the polar vest

2016-02-12T13:22:00.002+01:00

There, I have done it, I said that this year I would sew for someone else than myself, and look:

I am amazed at two things: that he agreed to be photographed, and that he is really good at modelling, don't you think?
Back to sewing. Polar is really fun to sew with, and quick! When you don't have to finish you seams, construction is REALLY fast. I even ended by enlarging my stitches because the normal length (2.5) was completely despairing in the fabric, and I wanted to sew even faster.

I used Burda young 7734 view B but changed it a little: instead of making the kangaroo pockets I sewed two large pockets inside that he can access trough an opening in the side seam. I thought that as the fabric itself was double layered, adding a visible pocket on top, would make his stomach seam bulky. I might have been wrong. And I also drafted a larger collar. Anyway, it's fine, he's happy, so I am too.

Of course without the pockets the pattern seamed a bit plain. So I added topstitching to imitate princess seams at the front and the back. I think it turn out to be a good idea, it gives a little bit of interest an definition.

Next I think I will try to make him a shirt, but I will make him a made to measure one. He is not a standard size (he doesn't like when I say that hehe) and I think it's time I spend some of my knowledge, building a few block patterns for him, than buying commercial ones that never ever fit him right. Plus I like designing patterns.
That's it for today. I am currently making shirts for myself because you know : shirts are awesome !!

New year's resolutions and a little shopping.

2016-01-14T15:33:00.000+01:00

Well, during the past weeks I unpacked (again) and came to the unbelievable conclusion that : I HAVE TOO MANY CLOTHES !!!!!

It is with tears in my eyes that I have decided to...sew for other people. I know, it's awful.

I have begun with a very simple polar jacket for the husband. I bought the fabric for him, 3 years ago . Yes, three years. And the worst part is, that he really needed a warm jacket while we were living in Germany, hehe, and now we live in the south of France. Oups!

I chose burda young 7734. Not a really good fit for him, I've had to trace between three sizes. We'll see soon enough if it turns out ugly or not. I think anyway, that I will have to stop using commercial patterns for him. The sizing is really wrong for his stature. Lucky man, he will get made to measure clothes.

The fabric is a double sided polar, in two shades of blue, to go with his eyes. I am so thoughtful. Sometimes.

Meanwhile, it's the sales, and I couldn't avoid going to the fabric shop to have a look. I have found three interesting things half price :

A very classic and quite soft blue and white cotton. Will make a shirt for my man with it. Yes I will! I hope.

A viscose flowery piece of fabric. I am currently transforming it into a Downton Abbey, inspired shirt.

And another piece of viscose with a border. Again for a shirt for me. I know I said I would sew for other people, but I can honestly say that I can use a few other shirts, plus I don't have a job, have pity. I need to buy fabric!!

Here is my little stock of fabric for the winter (if you can call that warm weather winter). I think it is not too high. And it is mostly, for shirts. I need shirts, I want shirts, what's going on with me and shirts ??

But this year is not going to be all fun sewing for other people and shirts. I have some serious taking in to do on quite a lot of clothes, because I lost a few kilos before the summer, and now all my pants are too big, and some dresses, and shirts too!

A happy sewing year everybody. And lots of shirt making, lots of it.

A shirt for me not for him

2015-10-26T11:35:00.002+01:00

A few weeks ago I was staying at home, being a bit cold. I had bought a nice crisp cotton to make, believe it or not A SHIRT FOR MY HUSBAND!

But he didn't like the motif : "I don"t want anything that looks like flowers".

So being cold and all, with 3 meters of fabrics and a lot of free time, I set out to make something I could were as well at home as at work (yes yes, I will work again!).

I have lost a few pounds so I had to adjust my block pattern. I had no real problem doing it, except for the sleeve, as usual.

I am currently reading Sarah Veblen's the complete photoguide to perfect fitting witch was recommended by Peter and I am really happy I bought it. There are some pages dedicated to sleeve fitting, but I have not yet reach those pages yet. I will definitively study them and fix that wretched problem once and for all!

I feel fine in my shirt, mainly because the fabric is really crisp, but I have made another top since (based on my block patten), in a more flowy fabric and the problems in the shoulder area really show! I have broad shoulders and small arms. The trick is to balance my pattern to make the shirt comfortable, to make the shoulders appears less large and to fit the bicep well but as the same time to not appear too small in comparison to the bust. That's a lot of work, and I really am begging to be really fed up with that problem.

Of course I forgot to remove my hair from the way :-) I made a yoke at the back, with a pleat, because I don't know, I felt like it.

I feel the length is good, it's meant to be a relaxed look. The pleat at the front is just there to had some interest to a rather classic shirt.

I also made a placket opening with a special collar: in French we call it a "col officier", a collar I suppose given the name, that was used in military uniforms. I couldn't really found the name in English. It is not a mandarin collar, it is narrower and the upper part of the collar is rounded and not at a straight angle. It's basically just the collar base of a classic tailored shirt slightly modified.

I bought the buttons a few months back in la droguerie.This shop doesn't exist in Montpellier, I am planning a strike and a public demonstration to express my utter sadness and demand that one opens immediately!

The buttons are not white but cream, and I believe they go really well with the fabric. Better than white ones. I can't take credit for this idea though. It is just what I had on hand in my tinny travel stash, and I didn't want to buy new ones. A big thumbs up for chance!

I am currently in a shirt making spurr. I think I need some (hard to tell with almost all of clothes still in Brittany) hihi, life is a bit of a mess right now. Anyway, I like this shirt, my husband was wrong and I was right, it's a great fabric for shirtmaking, I just need something to go on top of it now...

cheers!

hi I'm back! (again)

2015-09-23T18:56:00.003+02:00

Remember when I said I would post more often? Yeah, it definitly did not happen :-)
But hey, I'm back. And with a twist I did not expect: I live in the south of France now. This means less sleeves and more dresses! And maybe less Breton stripes (darn, I love my stripes).

Anyway, I thought maybe it was time to sew a few things for Autumn, although Autumn here seems to be as hot as summer in Brittany, and also I don't have a job yet, sooooo, what to sew, what to sew ?

Of course the first place I went in my new city is the fabric shop. I know, speak of an obsession. I am so pleased they have a toto soldes as well here. The selection is quite the same as in Rennes, so I was not lost, they also have a coupon selection and couldn't help but rewarding myself for being so brave (you know, leaving my dear Brittany and all) so I bought a few coupons.
The first one I am using is a nice crisp cotton.

The print is quite small, I thought I would make a shirt for the husband, but he didn't like the print. What? I present you with a gorgeous fabric AND I OFFER TO TAKE FROM MY PRECIOUS SEWING TIME AND YOU DECLINE?
Good, more for me hehe.

I made a few sketches to find the right idea, I always do that, it helps me figuring out exactly what I want to make, and also it is a preparation before making the pattern, so that I don't spend too much time on it, trying to experiment with the details.

I chose to make the first shirt out of the three. The fit is loose, with a nice detail at the front: a placket opening and a pleat. There is also a pleat at the back. It should go well with the white trousers I have just finished.
My mum told me it is not really the right color for the season, but the weather is much nicer here, it is still more than 20°c (68°f) every afternoon, so white pants I made! And also I'm in a new city, with totally different weather and I am out of a job, so I don't really know what to sew now, I am just going with the flow :-)

The pieces of the shirt are cut. I have begun construction. It looks good so far. I might have finished it by tomorrow. But what will I do next then?

Stay tuned for more random sewing and existential crisis!
Bises

What I did last weekend

2015-02-19T17:40:00.000+01:00

I decided last weekend that I "needed" to visit some fabric stores, other than my beloved Toto soldes.
So I embarked on a 10 minutes bus trip and voilà! Ecolaines is a creative shop, for people who sew, knit or quilt, or who do all of those things at the same time!

They have a large selection of sewing books, and because we are in Brittany some of them are about traditional Breton wardrobe. Very inspirational I find, especially if you are attracted by embroidery like I am. Sigh, when I am going to find the time to do all the things I want to? I really want to make a dress with traditional embroidery, we'll see.

I bought a few things from the quilting department. There were so many choices of marking tools, I almost lost it. What made me laugh is that I finally bought a french curve (don't know the name in French), and it was from an Australian brand! The instruction were also written in English, how non-french is it?

I spotted some plaid, but retained myself from spreading them on the floor and rolling on them while shouting: MY PRECIOUS! I am so proud of me...

I had planned to only buy shirt making fabric, and I stick to it. I only bought enough for one shirt (more about that later). The selection is nice but I have to say that the fabrics were more expensive that at toto soldes, and I found a bit hard to find what I wanted, also, there were too many kid's fabric! Or is there? Maybe it would make a nice shirt?

But it is still a good place to shop, they have a nice selection of laces, and the inside of the building is nice.

I also went to another store where i found some knit fabrics! I had never seen any in France before. But they were... weird? Ugly? In your face? Decide for yourself:

Can you believe I have been back in this city for almost 6 months now and I have never taken the time to go there?
I am so going back in Spring, for now I am on a shirt making spree. I will try to show you very soon; I promise I will be a better blogger in 2015, I will get organised!

Salut

Out with the old, I made some new nightgowns!

2015-01-26T21:11:00.003+01:00

When I got back home in France I discovered unpacking that I owned A LOT of really old clothes! I gave a lot away, and then decided that I should have fancy nightgowns!

I mean, I really had no idea for work clothes (maybe because work is just blah!).

For the first one I just copied an old favourite. I had the chance to find some really nice fabric at toto soldes for almost nothing.

I chose some synthetic voile with what I think are some interesting prints.

Of course the pictures are blurry, maybe it's because of the busy print. Anyway, the pattern was quite quick to make. I made a simple A line "dress", lowered the bust point by 1,5 cm, because no bra. Added some lace and voilà! Of course my V point at the front is not perfect but the other points are quite good, and most important the nightgown is super comfy, and it doesn't wrinkle!

I always try to keep away from synthetic fabrics, but maybe it's not a good idea, like dartless shirts!! It is such a practical fabric, it is great for travelling, I might make a dress out of that stuff!

The second one has lovely birds and flowers and frilly straps! How girly is that?

I chose a vintage look, with gathers instead of darts. I had no fabric left but if I had I would have added a second row of frills.

I finished the edge with some red bias I had in my stash, I love having a stash!

All in all, the night gowns were fast to sew. Probably because I never muslin, ever. This is the beauty of making your own custom fit pattern. It always fits.It might not always be the shape I had in mind, but when you have a limited amount of sewing time you just have to love your stuff no?

And now the back, very pretty I find.

Some self bias, because it always nice and NOT DIFFICULT AT ALL with a fabric that doesn't old any crease!

I would like to make one more for winter and have a splendid dressing gown to go with it. Fortunately I still have some pretty gorgeous looking fabric, unfortunately, I don't know if I have enough time...

I will not use it for the dressing gown, because I want to do this:

Downton Abbey of course! I haven’t find the fabric yet, it has to be soft, warm and super fancy. Maybe I should have done it first and then made the nightgown.

Ah well, I just followed my inspiration.

That's all for today. It's good to be back in France with all my favourite fabric shops nearby. I will try to post more often, if only it was my job!

Salut.

Don't blog where you sew!!

2014-12-22T15:47:00.000+01:00

First of all, let my apologise for my 6 months break! Here are some flowers, I am so sorry!

But I have several good excuses:

1- I broke my computer!

I know, it's possible to go in a shop and buy a new one. But I preferred waiting for someone to give me one! I am so cheap.
Also a word of advice: don't put your laptop where you sew!!! This is how my computer broke: some needles got stuck in the fan, it overheated and I broke the OS. I didn't know you could break an OS, well, that's of my list now :-)

2- Summer!
here is a picture of me totally sewing related : I am posing in a new dress I made especially for my trip to Sardinia. Unfortunately my husband doesn't seem to understand that he should photograph the entire outfit, not just the top of it. Also it was too warm to pose for long in the sun.

The fabric is a coupon viscose I found at TOTO soldes, it has tiny pocket with cute buttons at the front and a low cut at the back. But you can't see it can't you??? I have to find myself a tripod.

3- I moved back to France!
and instead of sewing I had to unpack, then tried to make myself a nice sewing space. I am getting there, but it is still quite messy.

That's all for today, sewing has begun again, I still try to fill the basics gap in my wardrobe, well, almost: I made a transparent cape!!

Cheers.

Mind your eyes, I give you the stripy ensemble!

2014-06-12T17:52:00.000+02:00

Oulàlà! My fabric just doesn't photograph well! Warning, this post might hurt your eyes!

So let's make it quick. Rapid reminder of the weather here: HOT!!! It's a bathing suit only kind of weather, but I managed to jump into a few of the things I have made lately and cornered my husband into taking pictures, the things that blog makes me do...

As usual I bought the fabric at TOTO soldes, it was a coupon, 3 meters for 15 euros I think, I can never resist those. It's a light cotton, I think it's good for shirt making, so of course I made shorts with it.

The pattern of the shorts is the same as usual, except that I changed the shape of the pockets, can you see that they are not Italian for once?

I top stitched the pockets for a more casual look.

Patched pockets.

I had fun trying for the first time flat seams. I don't know why I didn't do that before. Maybe because it's not traditional to women's attire. But luckily we can wear almost anything that we want now, and men's wardrobe is a part of women's repertoire. So here we go for a quick explanation on how to realise flat seams.

Start like you normally would: stitching right sides together. Then trim one of seam allowance. Fold the other side over, so that it will hide the trimmed one. And stitch on the edge of the fold. That's all! The finish is really clean. The picture on the left is the inside and on the right the outside.

It's perfect for light, non transparent fabrics. Don't you find sometimes that even if your machine does a nice zigzag or other finishing stitches it doesn't look good, it's too bulky.

I'm happy I finally tried this technique. I am totally using my sabbatical years in the best way!

The top has interesting sleeves. They are kimono like, minus the insert under the arm. I have to say that part didn't go as well as the flat seams.

It's a bit too narrow. The principal is simple: prolong the shoulder line, and lower the underarm 5 cm under it's normal place.

I think I made a mistake by trying to have fabric under my arm.

Let me explain, in the picture below the sleeve is short on the shoulder and nonexistent under the arm. This should have been my design.

Or I should have lowered more the beginning of the underarm seam.

The top is still wearable though, it's just not a good outfit if I plan on lifting things above my head!

Waouh!! Those stripes hurt!!

I feel this ensemble goes in the the same category that of my crazy ensemble of last year. I really have no idea why I chose to make a top and short in the same fabric. It's feels a bit bold to me. And elegant as well, is it just in my head? Maybe.

Anyway, I learnt two new things making it, so it's a win.

I love so much making things for summer, and being able to wear them!

Look at where I worked yesterday:

Isn't it the most beautiful office? The weather is so nice I just can't stay inside cutting an sewing. It even inspired me to make a new bikini. Pictures will come when I can wear it at the beach.

Cheers!

OMG, I love green!!

2014-06-07T10:51:00.005+02:00

I love green! Last summer I bought on sale quite a lot of coupons at TOTO soldes. I had picked that green one because it was viscose (I love viscose, it's so soft). But I was not entirely sure about the shade of green because it was really bright. But I was so right to follow my instinct!

I love that dress. It's flowy, light and happy.

Here is my inspiration, it's a ZARA dress with some kind of a knot at the front. I guess the fabric is jersey. I was looking for a dress or a top to make with one of my favorite pattern book that I spent hours looking at but never know quite what to make with it :

Pattern magic by Tomoko Nakamichi. It's full of interesting designs and if you already know how to make patterns it's really easy to use. I used that page to figure out how to copy the ZARA dress.

Of course the design was not exactly the same, "sigh", I seem to long for difficulty! But I think that I did good. The knot at the front is not exactly the same but it looks good.

Mine is not as twisted, but I like it. If the dress is still in store when I go back to France I will definitively have a look at the inside!

Here is how I did it:

I didn't want any visible seem (of course, why make something easy?). So I opened the middle front until the spot where I wanted the knot to be. Then after MUCH consideration I opened the dress perpendicularly. That was the scary part!

Then I stitched one side, leaving only a small opening on the side, and passed the other panel through that opening and stitched that part very closely to create pleats. Is that clear ?

I don't think you can see the seam at the front.

I used an interesting method to attach the facing.

First I stitched the whole dress except the shoulders.

Then I created one facing for the front and one for the back part of the dress. I attached them to the neckline and the armhole. Then I stitched the shoulders of the dress. Opened the seamed with the iron. Slipped that under the facings (see the picture with my fingers :-)). Turned one edge of the facings inside, and carefully slipped stitched by hand.

Et voilà, a beautiful finish, it look as good as the outside!

I also added pockets. I even used some cotton ribbon from my purple coat to strengthen them. I never do that! I am improving myself, good girl.

I love this dress so much, I think the pictures don't do it justice. Maybe I should also buy a new camera, my pictures are a bit blurry no?

I didn't take any pictures with heels, it would look so good with it! Don't you think it deserves colorful shoes, pink, yellow or even golden ones? Ooooh what a good idea!

Since yesterday afternoon I am taking a break from sewing, the weather suddenly took a turn to super hot, before that I sewed like crazy, but couldn't take any pictures because it was too cold to wear a light dress or shorts outisde. Ha, the pleasures of German weather...

Anyway, now that the sun is here I will try to take picture of everything I did, fingers crossed!

Cheers.

A cute sailor's outfit

2014-05-21T11:23:00.001+02:00

Sock season is over!! Youhou!

You know that I come from Brittany, and there, stripes are a must, it's always in fashion and everybody wears them. It's why last year I bought a bunch of stripy jersey at the Stoffmarkt Holland market.

I wanted some stripy shorts for some time, it seemed a good idea: it's cute, comfortable, perfect for summer.


Stripy shorts

I made the pattern last summer during the only warm days we had here! It is now one of my basics, it's the third short I've made from that pattern.

It seems that this year I spent all of my sewing time matching stripes or plaid!

The pattern has just two pieces: front and back, it is just folded at the waist, hiding an elastic and stitched with a zigzag stitch.

I used to not want to use zigzag, because it's not a very clean stitch. You can see it, it's not hidden. But I have decided to stop being silly and I have used it and I like it ! Because it works! It's just like my obsession with no darts, come on Kate, be smart!

I added a cute bow at the front because I couldn't distinguish the front from the back! Now it just needs a small pocket, I might add it inside.

boxy top

I love the top, it has that clean elegant look that I like, plus it's white. I love white for summer. The shape is a little boxy, plenty of room for the tummy. It's a nice balance to the little shorts.

I bought the fabric in Rennes at TOTO soldes last year I think. In French we call it "nid d'abeille". It's structured and olds itself very well.

I added a military detail at the shoulders, although after checking on the website of the French marine military it seems that this kind of detail does not exist in their actual wardrobe... Maybe it's just in my head.

Anyway I like it, I even congratulate myself for this good idea :-)

The buttons are from my stash, I chose them big so that they would make a statement. The statement being: "I like gold and shinny buttons".

Thumbs up for spring! I have so many ideas, but I try to stay focused and to make only clothes that I "need". Yeah, let's be real, I already have a lot of clothes. But what can I say, I love designing clothes, making them and wearing them, I just can't get enough of it!

Sewing rocks!

cheers

Does it go together?

2014-05-10T11:58:00.000+02:00

Here are the first clothes I made this year for Spring. Unfortunately I have almost no occasion to wear them! A month ago the weather started to get really warm an sunny, but now it's just rainy and cold. Why?

The bermuda is the second I have made. Last year I made the pattern and really enjoyed wearing them by not too warm weather. They really are a staple in my wardrobe, very practical and elegant I find. I intend to wear them in town, better then shorts no?

The fabric is synthetic crepe. It's really a magical fabric: it doesn't wrinkle and has a nice structure. At first I bought it to make a top for Winter and never made it. I have already used crepe for a dress, and I really love it, it moves superbly and looks really chic. It's the kind of fabric you often find in hight end stores, because it holds itself really well.

The back is a bit tight... I have been training and I guess my efforts are paying off. Have to revise my block pattern!

Construction was easy. I really love Summer sewing: shorter seams!! Yeah! I did Italian pocket and a fake velted one on the back. I like the look of velted pockets but never put anything in them!

For the top I did a simple loose shirt. I like this style, it's breezy! I thought the colors of the bermuda and the shirt would go together but I am not so sure anymore.

I wanted to have "some" design element in it, so I choose to make kind of a cowboy shirt, but without all the bias cuts, I find it too distracting for the eye, I like clean lines.

So I made some piping, always fun.

I have to say that placing the piping on the curved line on the back was not easy, maybe because you shouldn't do it :-)

So when I stitched the front pieces I used two pieces of piping instead to make a sharper point, worked well and the result looks good.

The fabric gave me some troubles. Can you see in the picture, it doesn't go at all straight! That piece of fabric is perfectly cut on the grain, but it goes all on the side! What a pain. But the fabric is soft, so it's forgiven!

Here is my obsession for this Summer: knots, love it!! Apparently it's what's in this year, don't know, I just like it, and I will make some more. Maybe it's just my love Dirty Dancing that expresses itself?

Come on, I know you love it too, it's the perfect Summer movie! First, Summer, right? And dancing, romance, nice outfits, I really have to watch it again.

Yeah, those colors don't really go together right? Never mind, I still have plenty of time to make something new that goes with both, "sight". Where are you lovely sun?

Cheers

Spring!

2014-04-28T15:33:00.000+02:00

Oh, yeah!! Spring is officially here!
At least here at Ephémère couture anyway.
In reality it's raining and cold. Barbie graciously volunteered to launch this new season, the best season!

She is so spoiled! Her coat is from Tara Jarmon, one of my favorite brand. I have to admit I never buy anything there because it's too expensive, but I surely find a lot of ideas!!

It's lined with a beautiful Liberty fabric, and of course has golden buttons. They are from my forgotten dress.

But as it is intended as a gift for a little girl, I also had to make a dress.

Simple and pink. I didn't want to steal the coat's thunder!

I wish I had enough fabric to make myself the same coat! I made the pattern myself, It's not perfect yet, but I'm getting there.

Voilà!! I already have made a few Spring/Summer outfits, I just wait for some sunshine to take pictures, and to wear them of course!

Cheers.

Final Winter sew: a coat!

2014-04-16T12:24:00.002+02:00

As promised here is my last project for Winter: a plaid coat!

WARNING: this post is loooooong! If you don't want to be bored look at the pictures :-)

I have a coat for Winter but as you can see on my pictures from my last trip to London, it's not the most beautiful one, although it is really warm.

But I wanted a pretty one.

I had in my stash a piece of wool fabric that happened to be large enough to make a coat out of it, so there I was, I decided to make my first coat ever!

Am I going to state the obvious? Yes this coat is really the sum of what I seem to enjoy: plaid and purple... I really should expend my tastes!

Making the pattern was rather easy, I am used to it know. I took my block pattern added 0,5 cm all around except around the neck and did the same for the sleeves.

The rest is just a question of taste, I lurked on the Internet to find coats I liked, shaked the ideas in my head and voilà! Plaid and leather (faux leather), I think it's current and Winter appropriate.

Concerning the sewing part I thought I would try myself with tailoring, but there was no horse hair at the shop, nor silk thread.

OK, so no fancy tailoring. But there is not one way of making a coat, you can still have a nice looking one without using enhanced techniques. Here is what I did with the help of my sewing book.

I interfaced all the important parts : neck, coat and sleeve hem, facings, collar, upper part of the chest until the bust dart. I didn't interface the back because it's mainly leather.

interfacing the hem of the sleeve

I added some cotton ribbon to all the important seams. It's mainly those who give a nice crisp look: collar, facings and hem. I just followed my book.

attaching the collar

I attached the collard in a different way as usual. I stitched one side to the facing and the other to the coat, then turned the edges facing the "gap" inside, pressed and hand stitched together the two stitches so that the edges facing the outside stay on the outside. Does it make sense? The goal is to reduce the width of the edges by distributing them inside and outside of the collar.

I did quite a lot of hand stitching on the coat. I can't say it tool me a long time. Anyway I was watching the Great British bake off at the same time, so time passed on really quick!

In the pictures below you can see that there is a lot of folding and attaching the lining to other seams or seam allowances. The result is nice, you can see sometimes that it has been attached by hand. I find it really fancy: my coat is partially hand sewn! What a luxury!!

attaching the lining

Before, I added some fleece to the lining, because Winter is cold and my fabric was not thick enough.

I really enjoyed that part. It went on really fast and if I might say, really pretty. I cut my lining then added some fluffy fleece. As you can see the fleece is cut without seam allowance, then pinned.

I traced my stitching line on the lining, and simply used a wavy stitch on my machine. I had no problem with it, even with the fleece face down. I was really pleased with my machine!

I also did something funny:

It' really simple, I cut three circles of fleece and shaped them in the form I needed. It's a really interesting method because the pads are custom made to the exact measurements that you need. Us seamstresses we know that we are all different and we have special needs for our clothes.

How pretty are my shoulder pads! They are simply attached by hand to the shoulder seam and sleeve head. I my opinion it is a really compulsory addition to a tailored garment, it really gives the sleeve an elegant finish, by keeping it's shape.

Of course, as I make my own patterns, I have to find out how to attach all the pieces together. I usually don't need a lot of help from my book, but as it was the first time I was making a coat I decided to be serious and to make everything as good as I could so I gathered information in the sewing book make by the same person that wrote my pattern making book, and ugh...

There was not a specific chapter for coat making or simply tailoring. I had to go back and forth across several chapters, and even inside the chapters, that lazy women often doesn't explain everything, she just refers you to previous paragraphs, I hate that !! I made it through, but next time, I will copy the pages I need to make myself my own coat making book!

In commercial patterns sleeves head are often not gathered. It's an old way of making sleeves I believe. But I make my pattern the old may. So I had to gather my sleeves. It's easy on thick wool, but it's my nightmare on thin fabric.

Patched pockets are the best! No fuss, easy, fast, LOVE!

The coat is closed with a fancy metal zipper.

Can you believe I don't like to read long posts? I should have sliced it into several but I really wanted to be over with winter sewing... and also I am not good with this blogging thing.

I saw before cutting the fabric, that it seemed to be a bit thin. But I had no other fabric and I really wanted to make a coat! Maybe a solution would have been to interface everything, to give it some body.

What is done is done. Maybe if I am bored one day I will hand stitch the lining to the fabric of the coat, so that it will be one. I think it would be nice.

But I think I did a good job, I really like it and seems to be warm, although maybe not warm enough for really cold temperatures. No problem, I'll just make a new one!

WINTER IS OVER!!!

We had warm weather the past weeks (of course now it's over...), many trees have leaves and I have begun sewing for spring and summer. Can't wait to show you. Spoiler alert: there might be some purple outfits :-)

cheers!

one pattern, three pants, the last one.

2014-03-31T11:15:00.000+02:00

I thought I needed some pants to go to London. Turned out I didn't, but this is another story!

As you know, I sew from my stash. I didn't really have a lot of fabric left for winter, so I went for some plaid.

The pattern is the same that of my Chanel pants. But this time I didn't make any alteration to the original.

my original sailor's pants

Same length, same back welted pocket,

welted pocket

same sailor's pants look.

plaid sailor's pants

It's really interesting to use the same pattern with different fabrics. The green fabric is rather sturdy, so the pants really have a sharp clean look. But that plaid one is different. It's all synthetic so I had to line it to be able to wear my pants in cold weather. The feeling is different, the legs don't behave the same way as in the green one. They don't fall straight, I think I'll have to iron them strongly.

underlining

I used a new technique for me: underlining. Basically, you cut your pattern two times, first in your fashion fabric, second in lining and then you work with the two fabrics are if they were one. I think this is a fast method of sewing, but I don't really fancy the result. It is clean but it's not as nice a when you line a garment. I like when the stitching is hidden.

But I was in a hurry, so I chose to underline. You could say that if I was in a hurry I shouldn't have chosen a plaid fabric :-)

aligning stripes

I don't know what's with me and sewing in a hurry, but it's clearly not a good mix!

I managed to line correctly the fabric, and then I realised that maybe I had cut the fabric in the wrong way...

Can you see the black stripe? Should I have put it, because it's strong, horizontally?? I am baffled. I have found explanations on how to cut and align plaid all the way trough the pattern, but no explanation on how to make it look nice!

Look at the side:

Horizontally it matches, but clearly something is off. Look at the hip, see how the black stripe finishes its course in the stitching line in a strange way? I makes me wonder...

I think it stresses that when dealing with plaid, you should really have a lot of fabric to be able to play with it and find a appealing way of aligning all this mess.

BUT, all plaids are different right? So, maybe the smaller the pattern, the smaller the plaid we should use, don't you think?

Maybe this was my problem, the plaid print was a bit to big. But, I don't really mind too much. You got to love your stuff right? Especially when you make it. I mean, it's comfortable, it's original, I like them.

Oh, look:

Fancy buttons! Can I say it again? I love my stash!! Gold and blue, it adds a fancy note to the pants, and I'm always happy to know that I wear something that comes from my dear island.

Well, winter related post are almost over. Next my coat and then it's going to be all fun colours and no more plaid!!

one pattern, 3 pants

2014-03-28T12:00:00.001+01:00

This month I attended a baptism in London. My idea was to make a pair of pants for the event, knowing that the weather could be cold, maybe too cold to wear a dress. I really don't like being cold!

This is what I made. The fabric is a wool bouclette. At first I thought I would make a coat out of it. But, hey, I can change my mind no? It is really soft, I mean it feels like I am in my pyjamas, elegant pyjamas!

Maybe I should have stuck to my first idea because the fabric is a bit heavy. I have worn it a few time already, but not an entire day's work. Will see if it holds itself when I 'll go back to work.

Contrary to normal I reused a pattern. I almost never do that.

Excuse the poor quality of the pictures, I took them in a hurry for the blog. Those pants are my favourite. The colour is really bold, a very nice green, and the fabric doesn't winkle or poach at the knees. They are sailor's pants.

sailor's pants

Hum, sailor's pants, it could be the subject of another post. But today I am talking about my beige pants, stay focused Kate!

As you can see I changed the front of the pants. No more sailing stuff, just a plain front with no darts (I know I said I would stop this non sense, and I have! I just made the pants before this life changing decision).

Instead I opted for pockets.

In my mind, I was making Chanel pants. The fabric, the colour. I screamed Chanel to me.

There are four pockets. The ones on the front are bigger then those on the back. I had problems figuring out the size of the front pockets. And the placement was not easy either.

I fixed them by hand. I didn't want any top stitching. These are not sportswear.

Ha, the buttons. Gold seamed to be a good idea. But what golden buttons? I made a first selection from my personal collection :-)

I finally picked some elegant black and gold buttons. I think they are maybe a tiny bit small. I might try and find them in a bigger size this summer. The shop where I buy them has really a huge stock, I might be lucky!

After trying them on, I decided I needed a lining. I know, bad idea to decide that after finishing the last details... But I think it is quite compulsory with this kind of fabric. The weaving is so loose, I am sure that after only one hour of wearing them, the pants would have looked terrible.

And the lining is so comfortable, I smile of pleasure each time I put on the pants, it's divine!!

I added some bias to fancy up the inside. The bias is hand sewed to the waist band on the side where you can see it. Same for the hem.

bias at the hem

This is what I really like about home sewing. I can make myself fancy outfits I would never be able to buy, or maybe just one every once in a while. But never enough to make an entire wardrobe.

And also, I don't know if you have this problem, but in Brittany the weather can be cold in Winter, and our Summers are not the most warm either. But it is really hard to find wool clothes, or pants with a lining at moderate prices. It is sometimes hard to find sweater with sleeves, I am not kidding !

Here in Germany you can buy all sorts of gear for winter. I have to say it's really nice, but I am not staying in Germany, so a round of applause for home sewing and the ability to make clothes that fits us and the weather we leave in!

The pants were fast to make, just long straight seams. But I didn't wear them to the baptism.

Why? They look so good!

Instead I chose to wear my purple dress. Just because.

I thought it would be better for the trip to have pants who resist a long day of walking and who can be worn with flat shoes. Witch is not the case of my beige pants. The hem is for high hells.

That's all there is to say I think. I might call them my Chanel pants. They may not be worn again before Autumn, it seems that spring is already here this year. No complaints from me.

I have two winter related outfits to show you and I am of to spring sewing! Glorious dresses! I can't wait for it !

The dress I forgot I did, and I really don't know why.

2014-03-09T19:30:00.000+01:00

Rock and roll everyone!!

How could I forget that I had made this super cool dress?? It's all part of my plan to sew more intelligently, and by that I mean, making things that fit into my life and are more current.

I know I said I was going to make a special unworn garments in London, but I figured, why not posting those pictures, who knows when the husband is going to be free?

I had some fake leather left from my previous shirt, and I also had some wool. I have to say that, when I bought the wool I was not really sure what to do with it. It's a bit thick and I didn't get a lot, so, what to do with it?

I had barely enough to make the dress. At fist I was going for a warm sort of shirt, but the winter is so mild, and I love short dresses. And also I was watching Project runway and really loved that dress from Michelle Lesniak Franklin:

I also had some studs, kind of, in my stash (I love having a stash, it really makes sewing easier).

I just glued them on the fake leather. Really fun to make. But I omitted them on the back, because I was afraid I would fell them while seated in a sofa. And sofa time is important!

lapped zipper

As you can see, the front has no pleats. It had at firt, this was a big mistake! All those pleats, bah! It was awful. It created too much volume, I had to take them of.

The dress has no dart, the one you see is from the lining. I should really stop trying to make garments with no darts. I takes an awful lot of time to figure out, and the fit is always less good. Maybe it's a nice option for women with a small bust, but it's not my case, so I should just abandon the idea and begin loving darts!

I love darts!

Yes, just like that.

But hey, I think I am doing not too bad this year considering that the weather is really not helping. In Germany Winter is supposed to be cold. So I bought fabrics for snow... And it has never snowed this year! See, I can take pictures outside without freezing.

That's all for this one, nothing complicated, it feels nice to wear.

I just wish I had a fabric shop nearby with normal prices, I think I would make a few dresses out of wool again, but in spring colors (I also wish I had bought those fabulous boots I saw in Rennes, they would look sooo nice with the dress).

Anyway, I have to do with what I have, my stock of warm fabric arrives to its end, so hopefully the weather will stay warm, and I will authorized myself to dive into spring sewing in a few weeks. In the mean time I have some interesting ideas, you'll see soon!!

cheers.

Again in London?

2014-03-08T15:07:00.004+01:00

Bonjour tout le monde!

I have been busy those last few week preparing a trip to London and being there! It's why I didn't post anything . But I sure did some work.

I love London, the buildings, the museums, the shops, and all that Britishness. I just can't get enough of it.
As you can see I went where all seamstress should:
-Savile row where I got to see Patrick Grant, one of the Great British sewing bee judge and owner of Norton and Sons one of the tailor shop on Savile row (and by seeing, I mean he was siting at his desk and I was on the street lurking inside to see people sewing!),

-and at the Liberty store. You know how much I love their fabrics. And the shop is really beautiful. It's Arts and Crafts decorated, and yes, you can buy all of their fabric, but no, I didn't buy any. I don't need any at the moment, I'll buy some when I'll be back in France.

I did made some garments for the trip, and ended up by taking none of them!! After all, I didn't really need new clothes. I am waiting for my photographer to be free and I will do a special London non-used clothes!

Cheers!

vive les couleurs !

2014-02-14T18:06:00.000+01:00

Bonjour tout le monde,

in the spirit of my new year's sewing resolution, I made yet again another top. But this one is not purple!

The colour is a bit bold isn't it? Looking at it on picture, I realise I colour-blocked it! How did this not occurred to me while doing it?? My my, I don't know if I should ever go back to work with this empty head of mine.

Anyway, I think I took the idea of the colour back in November when I window shopped for ideas, but I really don't remember where. Any idea anyone?

What I know, is that I got inspired by a blouse worn by Shirley in Community:

It's beautiful no? At first I wanted to have some gold as well, but after trying it on the mannequin I decided it would look completely costumy, princess of space costumy even :-)

It's so awful it makes me laugh!
Side note, I really want to do something with this lamé but it seems to have a very vulgar vibe...

Here is my pattern, minus the collar who is just a very simple officer collar, do you say that in English? The correct term in French is: col officier.

I think it differs from a Mao collar just by the round form of the tip.

I decided to make the side and middle back seams with a French seam. Witch turned out nice, but caused a problem when I realised I had to give in a little space.

See the line at the arm's seam? It's taring because I was trying to change the shape of my arm hole and removed to much cm in the back.

On the good side, this top allowed me (trough my mistakes), to correct my basic pattern. I think that I finally have the perfect sleeve and arm hole!! This is a big deal for me, I have struggled with those problems for a long time.

The fabric is so soft, in France we call it "peau de pêche", literally peach skin, is it the same in English?

I have noticed on TV that the dart on this sort of top are usually placed more to the side, mine just go trough the bust point. It's how my book says to make them, I suppose it is a bit old fashioned. As is my book probably, it talks about sheath!

I made the pants two years ago with a nice stretch wool, I wish I could find the same fabric in other colours, it is so perfect for making and wearing warm slim pants.

I was really not in a smiling mood that day, my excuse is that it was only 7 degrees outside. But hey, I don't complain, it's warm enough that I can pose outside. Usually the weather is much colder in Germany at this time of the year, but with all the storms coming from the Atlantic, no need of my fur hat this year!

Oh, look! Is it Spring I see coming?

Noooo, my dear husband reminded me that in Germany it can snow until April! April?? Are you crazy? I don't have enough fabric to keep on making winter outfits, and you know what? I don't want to!!

But I know I have to listen to reason, and make clothes according to the weather.

I think I might even make a coat, that idea really pleases me. And it might not even be purpule (or maybe just a bit:-))!

A bientôt !

Comfort sewing

2014-02-07T16:43:00.001+01:00

Bonjour tout le monde !

Last week I tried to make a bra, but instead of following the instructions of my book I tried to make my own pattern, and let me tell you it was NOT a good idea.

So I decided to comfort myself by making something easy and nice to look at.

Some lavender bags! I have left overs pieces of Liberty fabric, too small to make a garment out of it and too big to through away.

Isn't it lovely?

It's the easiest project ever. I took a rectangle of 26 cm x 9,5cm. Folded it in two, sew each side with a straight stitch. Used my zigzag scissors to cut the three edges turned inside out the bag. And that's all! Added some pretty ribbons to close them, and it felt so good to achieve something so easily.

Now my closet smells amazing and look super romantic!

Have a good week-end everybody.

Sticking to my new year's resolutions

2014-01-28T16:10:00.000+01:00

Bonjour tout le monde !

As you know, I have vowed to create more current pieces. I felt that the clothes I was making, were a bit old looking, and this is not how I picture myself. So here we go, here is my take on a very current trend in fashion: leather!

new shirt and pants made by me.

My inspiration came from the series "Under the Dome". One of the characters had a nice wardrobe and this shirt struck me as being at the same time elegant and sexy (maybe because of the cleavage:-)).

The shirt has no visible darts and two patched pockets. Soooo, I tried to make a pattern with no bust dart.

Yes, I roll my eyes! Let me tell you this: it was a nightmare. I don't drape, I create my pattern directly on paper, and the method I know to avoid having a bust dart was not working here, and as I don't know how else to do, I struggled quite a lot to find a way to make it work. Here is the technical drawing of the shirt:

And because a first draft can always be a bit, how can I say it? Challenging. Of course I made a rooky mistake: I didn't measure my side seams and guess what happened? Yep, the front was longer than the back :-(

But you can't see it don't you? Haha, I might not be right each time, but a few years of sewing and a fabulous wool fabric saved me. Did I tell you I realized my error when everything was already cut and partially sewn?

This is how I hid my forgetfulness:

First I had a fabulous fabric, bought in Rennes at TOTO soldes, back in November. It's a light wool, a bit sheer, soft, and really warm to wear in winter.

I gathered the front and attached it to the back, then sewed without making any folds. And then, I used my iron to flatten the gathers, and it worked. But I think it's only because the fabric was wool. As we say in French: "ça rentre". Meaning it takes the form that you want. Thank you marvellous fabric!

I decided to cut the collar in only one piece. As it is fake leather it holds on itself fine, Afterwards, I thought I could have done the same for the button hole plackets and the wrist band. But maybe because of the buttons it's better to have two layers.

I don't know why but I wanted to have pockets, but not patched pockets. So this is what I did.

I thought that maybe the pockets would show through the fabric, but no, so good for me. I don't think I should put something inside though!

wrist band

I have decided that I should have more shirts. But not like this one, I didn't keep the pattern, because of the problem with the side seams. I will make a basic pattern ( with bust darts!) that I can reuse over and over. A working lady never has enough shirt in my opinion :-)

In conclusion, I really want to make the most of this last months of freedom to built a collection of basic pattern who will be easy to reuse when I'll be back to work. Pants are also on the list. I already have a pattern for my bathing suits (I know, indispensable for work!), I finally have the sleeve ( also a nightmare, must have weird arms), underwear, shorts, Chanel vest. That's not too bad. Now I just have to focus on my goal!

I wonder if other people also built a collection of basic patterns?

à plus tard!

New year, new beginnings

2014-01-15T15:37:00.000+01:00

Bonjour tout le monde!

Last November when I went back to France, I did a tour of my favourite shops to gather some ideas.

One thing I noticed, and liked, was strass. Yes, strass on clothes!

So I bought some back home, and finally made a DRESS!!!

I bought the strasses (?) at La Droguerie, it was really fun to make. I have already washed the dress and they hold perfectly.

I love this shop, you can find there everything you need to make jewels, ribbons, buttons, you name it, this shop is a dream. I MISS YOU!

Here is an image of the pattern I made:

The dress was intended for the holidays, to have something pretty and warm to wear.

As you can notice the shape is pretty loose in the front, I have two darts in the back because I don't like to look like I'm wearing a bag.

I thought it could be also a good garment for when I go back to work. I tried to balance the large shape by making it a short dress.

I added two pockets on the front, I love having pockets in my dresses.

The fabric is a nice wool, purple... I know, again purple. I suppose I got a little obsessed by this colour this winter. The dress is lined except for the arms.

The dress looks really good when I move, yes, yes, trust me!

I thought that the zipper would make the dress look more current. It is this year's goal, I am trying to be more on the trend. Not because I want to be trendy. But because I happen to like this year trends. It's also nice to have some guideline to my creativity.

Oh, another great advantage to this kind of shape: you can eat and eat and no one will see it! It's the perfect Holidays dress. I can tell you that I didn't deprive myself from cake. And no one could tell!! Yeah!!

Still tying to make up for all I have made lately and had no time to blogg about. What a life :-)

A bientôt.

2013: busy or lazy?

2014-01-04T15:49:00.003+01:00

Happy new year everyone!

I thought it would be funny to make a final round-up of 2013. I have never counted the number of clothes I make in a year, and I really like reading about other people achievements. So here we go !

Have I been super productive or lazy in 2013 ?

11 garment for Winter, mostly tops, only 1 dress and 1 skirt (I added some I didn't have time to blogg about).

The hat is your favourite of all of my post, maybe because I gave the pattern to make it. You doesn't love free patterns?

As I am not currently working I find myself in need of very few garments. And also last winter was really cold here so dresses were not really needed.

Oh yay!!! Summer! I miss you dear warm sun.

12 garments. Hum, knowing that summer only lasted 2 months, I should revise my plans for this year, and sew more for winter.

But there is a bias here: summer clothes are faster to make, no sleeves, no long stitches. And funnier shapes. I am guilty, I really prefer sewing clothes for summer, what can I do?

I made two bathing suits that fit properly and were worn almost every day.

For the first time I made underwear and I really enjoyed it. I am still tweaking the pattern for the bottom, but the last tangas I made were OK.

I have not made a lot of bra, but I plan on making a dress with a nice bra top.

And of course my trusted camies. They are really useful, if I had some silk on hand I would totally make some out of it! So chic!

Most worn piece:

I said when I made them, that white shorts were a basic in my summer wardrobe and it was true. Those are made of stretchy fabric and don't have any sort of closure.

Most controversial:

This ensemble is really funny and eye catching! I am thinking of making the key hole a bit bigger. And yes, I did wear it in front of people.

Summer colours:

White is THE base of my summer wardrobe, always. I use more and more fabrics with flowers but still no geometric prints.

Winter colours:

It seems that purple is the dominant colour here. It's funny, I kind of noticed it already, because, well I wear the clothes I make! But now it seems a bit silly. I should try something new no?

A total of 30 pieces, not counting the ones I made for my friend's babies and my niece and nephew (mostly because I forgot to take pictures:-)), and those I forgot about!

Looking back on what I made is a fun exercise.

I didn't make an excessive amount of garments, but I don't really need that much clothes. I need a purpose to make clothes: for the beach, cycling, for work, for gardening, weddings... But what can you make when you don't do this things anymore? I would almost miss work, almost.

I didn't have a really busy year, and yes I have been a little lazy. I bought some fabric to make my husband clothes, but did nothing with it, hihi.

Being away from a decent fabric store, forced me to change my creative process in a way I don't like, so, that's an excuse.

But hey, I still appreciate my stash! I had also the good idea to stack notions witch made my sewing life easier.

In conclusion I think that what I enjoyed doing the most this year, is the bathing suits. I had so much fun doing them and wearing them, I will certainly make some more this year, because guess what? I have what I need in my stash!!

A bientôt.

Underwear: the comeback!

2013-12-19T16:39:00.001+01:00

Bonjour tout le monde !

As I told you in my previous post I made a few things in the previous months to improve my wardrobe. They had to be quick to make, because I had a only a few days here and there to sew.

So I decided after staring at my fabric pile to make camies, more precisely a cami.

I made the blue one this summer, to be worn as a light top. It's very pretty with my white shorts. And then, I reused the pattern, witch is very rare for me. I don't know why but I always want to make something I have never done before.

You know I always use my pattern making books by Line Jaque. But it's a bit dated. She does explain how to make slips an therefore camies, but she uses zipper on them! It makes sense for people who didn't have access to elastic fabrics. There is actually no chapter on how to make a pattern out of this kind of fabric (note to self: find a book who does :-))

So I just took my basic block, omitted the dart at the waist for both front and back, took on the side a bit, so that it wouldn't be too large, but large enough not to use a zipper. And it worked, Yeah!

I the made another one a few weeks ago. I bought the fabric because it was pretty, and because I thought I could make a shirt out of it. But it's better this way (and I still have some left, so more camies for me!).

I mean, the fabric is nice, it's a bit shiny and very soft, but you can see it's not silk, and since I want my clothes to look fancy, I prefer reserving synthetic to my underwear or summer stuff. Don't ask why, I have principals :-).

I made self bias for the neckline, and I even made the effort to make the inside stitching by hand cause you know: lingerie=luxe=stupid hand sewing. And also I'm not a fan of visible stitches.

But then I had enough of making tiny bias, so I searched in my ribbon stash for something to make the straps of and I found some black and some baby pink. Perfect. I had a little hand shake with myself to thanks me for this oh so appropriate purchase.

I played a bit with it and came up with the lovely pink bows and double strap thinggy. And then added the black bow in the centre because it's nice.

It horrifies my mother that I show my underwear on the Internet but hey: I AM NOT IN THEM!

It's so much fun making panties, or tangas or whatever! Why shouldn't I show them to you and encourage you to do the same?

I bought some lace this summer at my favourite haberdashery (I am so lucky that we have one on our tiny island). Just 1 euro total for a bit less than two meters.

For the pattern, I just wrapped the lace around me at the place were I wanted it to be, and used a block pattern for thongs that I had previously made for my first panties. It reminded me how the patterns in the ESMOD book I use for underwear are so eighties! You know with the sides of your thong almost up to your waist, hilarious, and also bleuh!

That's it for today. I have been sewing for kids lately, making Barbie outfits and costumes. It's a nice change as I don't really need any new clothes right now.

Come on Barbie! Rock this stylish/wife of mafia boss outfit!

Au revoir tout le monde.