Photographic Image Quality and the Camera

Photographic image quality refers to the perceived sharpness, contrast, detail, and color rendition of the viewed image. Although post-processing and printing can dramatically impact the final result, no amount of digital manipulation can overcome flaws in the original out-of-the-camera file.

Photographic image quality depends on many factors, including the camera’s resolution and specs. In digital photography, the camera’s resolution is measured in megapixels (i.e. millions of pixels), and resolution describes both pixel count and pixel density. Camera resolution affects print size, cropping options, image resizing, and display quality on high-resolution monitors.   

Contrary to popular belief, a camera’s megapixel rating (i.e. the number of megapixels a camera can capture in a single shot) does not impact photographic image quality. In fact, high megapixel ratings on smaller cameras often result in greater noise and inferior image quality.

On the other hand, certain camera specifications can tell you a lot about the camera’s potential image quality, and these are all related to the camera’s sensor.

Camera Specs that Affect Photographic Image Quality

Image Sensor

A digital camera’s image sensor detects and conveys the information that results in an image. When you take a photo, the sensor is exposed to light while other components in the camera record what the sensor sees. There are many types of camera sensors, and the four most relevant are cellphone and point-and-shoot sensors, Micro Four Thirds sensors, APS-C sensors, and full-frame sensors.

• Cellphone and point-and-shoot sensors: Cellphone and point-and-shoot cameras tend to have tiny sensors. This often results in inferior image quality because a tiny sensor can only accomplish so much.
• Micro Four Thirds sensors: Many Olympus and Panasonic cameras use Micro Four Thirds (MFT) sensors. Measuring 17.3mm x 13mm, Micro Four Thirds sensors are a compromise between the larger sensors of DSLRs and the smaller sensors of point-and-shoot cameras. Cameras that use Micro Four Thirds sensors accommodate interchangeable lenses, and users can take higher-quality images while handling a camera body that’s less bulky than the average DSLR.
• APS-C sensors: These are commonly found in DSLRs, though they can also be found in some compact cameras. APS-C sensors give users greater control over depth of field. APS-C sensors measure 25.1mm x 16.7mm and are considerably smaller than the sensors found on full-frame cameras. Because of the crop factor (which magnifies the attached lenses), users who want to take wide images will need to buy wider lenses.
• Full-frame sensors: These sensors are the digital equivalent of 35mm film (which measures 36mm x 24mm). Unlike APS-C sensors, full-frame sensors do not have a crop factor. As a result, DSLRs with full-frame sensors can capture higher-quality images, handle low-light situations well, and produce a very shallow depth of field. 

As a rule of thumb, the bigger camera sensors tend to produce higher-quality images, though this is not always the case. While you need to pay attention to more than just the camera’s sensor when assessing potential image quality, the sensor size is a great place to start when comparing the specs of different cameras.

Image Processor

The camera’s image processor won’t affect photographic image quality directly, unless you’re shooting in JPEG. A camera armed with a good image processor will enable it to fix lighting issues and adjust other settings that can positively impact photographic image quality.

A good image processor also enables a camera to capture images in quick succession. While this feature won’t affect image quality directly, continuous image capture (also known as burst mode) can mean the difference between getting a good shot and getting an excellent shot.

Lenses

It may surprise you that lenses have a bigger impact on photographic image quality than the camera body (which explains why some lenses cost more than camera bodies). Long-time owners of cameras that accommodate interchangeable lenses know just how important a good lens can be to producing high-quality images.

The lenses on point-and-shoot cameras and lower-end smartphone cameras tend to be of inferior quality because they’re tiny and are fixed to the camera. DSLRs and mirrorless cameras offer users greater versatility and superior photographic image quality because they can accommodate interchangeable lenses. With interchangeable lenses, users can choose specific lenses to suit different photographic scenarios.

When trying to determine the quality of a lens, you should start by looking at its maximum aperture or how wide the lens can open. Wider apertures allow in more light, which enables you to take photos more easily in low-light situations. Lens apertures are rated in f-stops. For example, if your lens has an f-stop of f/3.5, it has a maximum aperture, or f-stop, of 3.5. Wide apertures are generally considered to be in the range of f/1.4 to f/2.8.

Other Factors Also Determine Photographic Image Quality

There are other factors outside the camera that determine photographic image quality—including the photographer’s focus and exposure, as well as the recording format chosen by the photographer. However, by assessing the most vital camera specs, you can more accurately determine the camera’s potential image quality and source high-quality photos for your designs.

The post How a Camera’s Resolution and Specs Impact Photo Quality first appeared on Photoble.

Buying your first DSLR and set of lenses is a huge investment with plenty of factors to consider. When it comes to lenses, being a tactical shopper will save you a lot of financial headache down the road.

As your photography progresses, so should your equipment. In your first DSLR days, the camera body and stock lens are the perfect tools for learning to capture gorgeous, successful photos in all situations. At this point, the most important thing you can do is familiarize yourself with how the ISO, shutter speed and aperture act as a checks-and-balances system to ensure proper exposure and clear focus. Understanding these components is essential to working your way though tricky lighting, and ultimately generating creative, well-composed photographs.

As you begin to understand depth of field (produced by your aperture) and what the range from 15mm to 300mm means to your photographs, you will most likely look for other lenses to suit your needs. Here we will touch on buying the right lenses to ease your transition from stock lens to various zooms and primes, as well as the switch from crop sensors to full frame.

First and foremost: Be proactive.

Knowing that not all of the lenses in your brand’s line-up will fit your camera, or your future camera, is key. Look for versatility. The worst thing you can do is stockpile lenses for your beginner camera, only to be lens-less when you graduate to your next body. Beyond that, consider how an 85mm lens works with a cropped sensor versus a full frame, and so forth.

But what is full frame, anyway? A full frame sensor provides the same area of exposure that the original 35mm film cameras did, and all crop factors are relative to this. If you take the same photo with the same lens on a camera with a crop factor (Canon Rebels, Nikon D3000’s) as you did on a full frame camera, you will see that the crop factor produces a photo that seems more “zoomed in.”

For example, the Canon T4i generates an image that is 1.6x smaller than that of the Canon 5D Mark III, which is a full frame. The T4i also hosts lenses falling under the EF and EF-S categories, while the Mark III is only compatible the EF mount. Therefore, any EF-S lenses wouldn’t work once you graduated to the full frame Canon. The EF or EF-S designates the type of bayonet that will attach to your body. Forcing an EF-S onto the Mark III without an adapter could cause the mirror inside the camera to break, costing you hundreds to repair.

Understanding how the 1.6x crop (for Canons) and 1.5x crop (for Nikons) will effect the zoom on future photos taken with a full frame body will help you develop a collection of highly flexible lenses that will reduce the immediate expense of upgrading your body, and the amount of luggage when bringing your “undergraduate” camera along for back up.

Here’s a guide to equivalent lens sizes for our different crop factors:

Next, consider all the factors that play into your perfect collection.

Lenses typically outlive camera bodies by a long shot, making the high price of quality a more reasonable investment. If you’re interested in portrait photography, investing in a well-made prime may be the right move for you. Likewise, if you’re a traveler or simply looking for tremendous versatility, a great telephoto zoom, such as the Canon 24-105mm f/4 L, may be paramount.

Perhaps you want your camera to accompany you into treacherous locals. If this is the case consider what you’re up against. Weather and theft are big things to think about for the traveling photog. The signature red ring on L series lenses advertises their price tag, and they certainly aren’t worth risking in wet, rough environments if you’re budget doesn’t include incidentals.

Having a collection with a couple of professional, signature lenses and cheaper alternatives will help you pack the perfect camera bag for every occasion.

And finally: Ask questions.

Specialized camera shops tend to have a collection of lenses with bodies to test them on, and larger cities offer rentals. These stores should have willing employees boasting an in-depth knowledge of their products, unlike other big-box stores and online retailers, easing your purchase anxiety.

The post Beginners Guide To Buying Lenses first appeared on Photoble.

Lomographic photos tend to share some common characteristics. Over-saturation is one common characteristic which is used make the colours really stand out and give it a bold effect. Another common trait is blurry photography, which gives the photos their vintage feel. Usually, these traits would be associated with traditional characteristics of bad photography but using an analogue camera they can be used to create some amazing photos.

Lomographers practise a few rules to help achieve these photos. These include to always carry your lomo camera wherever you go and be prepared to shoot at a moment’s notice. The trick is not to overthink when taking these kinds of photos and just snap whatever you feel like. You don’t have to know what you have captured before you take the photo!  Some of greatest photos can be the result of an accident, when you photographed something you haven’t seen before.  You don’t have to be a professional photographer to take these lomographic photos. Both professionals and novices can achieve the same results.

All you need to get started is a cheap analogue camera, buy a roll of film (would recommend regular 35mm for beginners) and get shooting! You can experiment with various different effects, such as playing around with the exposure or adding a red-scale effect. There is no end to the amount you can do with lomography. The key is to get out there, and experiment. There are lots of groups on the internet where you can share your work and gain inspiration.

Below you can see a collection of some amazing examples of some lomographic photos. To learn more about the movement and to check out some more of the work, you can visit the official website here.

Want to create gallery quality art from your lomographic photos?  Check out Bumblejax.com for stunning photo mounting to bamboo, acrylic (including blocks) and raw aluminum.

The post 30 Examples of Beautiful Lomographic Photos first appeared on Photoble.

Instagram

We obviously have to include Instagram on this list. It’s the most popular photography app out there and has a wide range of filters to transform your photos with. Sharing photos is easy and you can take inspiration from others ‘instagrammers’ out there.

Outdoors GPS Great Britain with National Parks OS Maps

If you are an adventurous photographer who wishes to take photos from off the beaten track, this app is perfect for you. It comes with a road atlas and maps of the National Parks so you don’t get lost trying to find an amazing photo opportunity.

Rough Guide

Using GPS, the Rough Guide will help to track your travels. You will be able to write posts and attach photos which will only be uploaded once you have a Wi-Fi connection. You can also see what nearby photographers are uploading.

Free wifi finder

No one likes paying for Wi-Fi and the charges for using data abroad are usually incredibly expensive. If you are planning on using some of the apps on this list, use this Wi-Fi finder will cut down on any charges you may incur.

Google goggles

This app will help you to identify what you’re taking a photo of. Just snap a photo and Google will return information. You can also use the search function to find some other handy information.

Photosynth

With travel photography a lot of the best photographs are shot in panoramic. Photosynth will stitch your photos together seamlessly to create great panoramic shots.  It’s integrated with Facebook so you can share your photos easily.

Tripjournal

Tripjournal is like a digital scrapbook for you to catalogue your holiday photographs and experiences. As long as your GPS is switched on, the app will automatically geo-tag your photos and build a map of where you have been.

Insight guides

Designed by Insight Guides, this app will send you a daily travel photograph to give you a little inspiration every day. They also dispense lots of advice and travel tips, invaluable for those wanting to know more about travel photography.

Dropphox

Brought to you by the makers of Dropbox, this app wirelessly connects your iOS camera to your Dropbox account allowing you to store large amounts of photos easily.

Fotopedia Heritage — Image-based location guide

This app is great for gaining some inspiration before you embark on your travels. Packed with around 3,000 photos it’s a photobook of the best places in the world to photograph.

Diptic

Create fun collages of your images with this photography app. Perfect to show off to your friends others without having to trawl through thousands of photos.

Snapseed

One of the best photo editing apps out there. It contains some Photoshop plugins which is great for the more experienced photographers out there. Saves on waiting to edit until you get back to the computer.

Gps4cam

This app allows you to geo-tag all your photos very simply. Saves you having to buy a GPS add on and you won’t incur any data roaming charges.

Sun seeker

Sun Seeker allows you to pinpoint the exact position of the Sun at any time, any point in the World. This will help you to find the ‘golden hour’ of light and also increase the chances of photographing some amazing sunrises and sunsets.

Postagram

Using images taken with its namesake, Instagram, this app allows you to turn your photos into postcards to send to friends and family. It will send a postcard out to your address book with the photo ‘popping’ out of the card.

The post 15 Apps For Travel Photography first appeared on Photoble.

Machu Picchu, Peru

The pre-Columbian site located 8,000 ft above sea level in Peru isn’t called ‘The Lost City of the Incas’ for nothing. Reaching it may be hard, especially since restrictions have been put in place to limit the negative effects of heavy tourism, but it’s well worth the effort. Voted one of the new Seven Wonders of the World by a worldwide poll in 2007, Machu Picchu is one of the most enduring and iconic symbols of the Inca Empire.

Ölüdeniz, Turkey

Ölüdeniz is a picturesque town nestling on the south west coast of Turkey. Its tranquil sandy beach and twinkling azure seas make it one of the most photographed beaches in the Mediterranean – get higher up for panoramic views and magical shots overlooking the bay.

Angkor Wat, Cambodia

The former center of the capital of the Khmer Empire is a stunning temple complex that’s revered as one of the planet’s most significant architectural sites. Aim to get there for sunrise for the best shots of the east facing temples, when the light is at its very best.

Maya Bay, Thailand

Made famous by the 90s movie The Beach, Maya Bay is a beautiful bay ringed by steep limestone hills on the island of Koh Phi Phi. Its varied and exotic marine life makes it a huge draw for diving enthusiasts. If you’re lucky enough to have an underwater lens there are magical shots lurking beneath those tranquil turquoise waves.

New York

In the city that never sleeps the photo opportunities are almost endless. But still it’s the Empire State Building that most people want for their perfect shot. Once you’ve got the standard front-facing shot of the monument in the bag, head 16 blocks north to Rockefeller Centre and its 70-floor high Top of the Rock Observation Deck. That’s the spot for the best view of the Empire State Building, plus magical panoramas of the entire city.

Barcelona, Spain

Barcelona is filled with amazing architecture which is a delight to photograph. Sagrada Familia, Gaudi’s unfinished masterpiece is impossible to capture in a single frame. Instead focus on detailed shots of the carvings, stained glass and steeples.

Queenstown, New Zealand

For those who love to photograph, the mountains and lakes of Queenstown is a must. Visit in the winter for glistening snow-capped mountains, and in the summer for the gorgeous sunsets over Lake Wakatipu.

Venice, Italy

Always popular with travel photographers, Venice has to be included on this list. With its pigeons, people, carvings and imposing arches, Piazza San Marco is one of Venice’s most photographed sites. The main square is never quiet, so try to arrive at first light or dusk to avoid jostling for space with the other camera-w ielding visitors.

What are some of your favorite places to photograph?  Let us know in the comments!

If you’d like to create gallery quality wall art from your travel photos using bamboo, acrylic or aluminum check out Bumblejax and bring those photos to life!

The post Some Of The World’s Most Stunning Photography Opportunities first appeared on Photoble.

You will need a digital camera with an adjustable exposer to create light writing. You will need to be in a dark area to carry this technique. You can either use your room and turn the lights off, or be outside at night. To show some background in your photos you can use street lighting, or illuminate some objects in the background, such as trees.

Place your camera around 10-15 feet away from where you will be writing. Use a tripod to keep the camera steady. Check that your picture will be in focus first using the regular shutter speed. If you are happy with the focus and the angle then set your shutter speed to around 20 seconds or longer. This will depend on how much you have to write and how quickly you can do it.  F-stop will need to be set at around 5.6. Put the shutter on timer for however long it takes to walk 10 to 15 feet away.

Then grab your light source and start writing! The most common source for light writing is a flash-light, although you can use pretty much any light source. Using LED flashlight will give your photos a colourful look or you could use glow-sticks for a cheaper alternative.

Go quickly to get the best effect. Try not to shine the light source directly at the camera as this may create a blur in your photos. To start a new line simply turn off your flash-light until you get to where you want to start again. If you’re using a different light source, just cover it up with your hand. Make sure not to turn on your lights until your camera has stopped shooting as this will ruin your photos.

Although this technique is really simple to carry out it may take some experimentation to get the perfect shot. You can experiment using different settings in your camera as well as different light sources.  Have fun!

Check out some great examples below:

The post How To Create Light Writing first appeared on Photoble.

Of course, with the advancement of printer technology over the past decade or so, it has become possible to print on a variety of materials.  There are several sites that will print your photo onto everything from coffee mugs, to pillows, to iphone cases, to tiles and t-shirts.  You name it and it can probably be printed on.

This post aims to focus on modern, gallery quality presentations of your photos – for photographers that want to stand out from the crowd or even just a family who wants a high end, dramatic look for their favorite vacation photo.   Many opt for canvas prints because they are relatively cheap and have an old fashioned look to them, but they aren’t all the unique anymore considering the explosion in popularity of canvas photos.

A much smaller percentage of people are discovering acrylic prints which offer a stunning, vibrant look for their images. This particular method of photo display was introduced in 1969 with the invention of the Diasec process which uses patented adhesives and methods to produce an acrylic face mount where the image is adhered to the front of the acrylic without air bubbles using silicon.  To the best of my knowledge there are no companies in the US with the rights to produce these using the exact Diasec method (if I’m wrong please use comments below).  Most companies without the Diasec rights will emulate the process and achieve identical results using a double sided, pressure sensitive adhesive.

The end result is often stunning, particularly with sharp, colorful images, but sharp black and whites look terrific as well.  The acrylic enhances the colors and creates for a more vibrant image.  With the right gallery lighting, the piece almost appears to be backlit and in a gallery it is sure to stand out from the crowd.  Did you know that in 2011 the world’s most expensive photo was displayed in this way and sold for $4.3 million?  This color vibrancy is achieved due to the unique properties of the acrylic where light penetrates and refracts within the acrylic.

At this point, you’re probably at least curious about the acrylic face mounting process and what it can do for your images.  It’s important you be aware that no acrylic print is created equally and you want to make sure you’re getting a high quality product that looks its best.  Here are a few things to keep in mind when considering purchasing an acrylic print, but do have a look at this article from Bumblejax which goes into more detail.

* Direct Print vs Face Mount:  quite a few of the companies offering these are printing directly onto the acrylic which doesn’t achieve the same vibrancy or color gamut but it can be considerably cheaper.

* Stand Off Bolts:  Most companies will use stand off bolts in each corner of the acrylic piece to attach another piece of acrylic to the back in a sandwich frame and/or for adhering to the wall.  In my opinion this greatly distracts from the image and many others feel the same way.  You might consider a company that doesn’t use this method but rather uses a dibond backer with the hanging mechanism hidden on the back.

* Quality of Backer:  The acrylic, particular at large sizes, may bow over time.  You need rigidity at the back and this is best achieved with a dibond back.  Some companies will use the cheaper sintra option or offer no backer at all.   Know what is being used!

Hopefully, this has provided a good intro for further exploring acrylic prints.  While not cheap, you’ll find they aren’t more expensive (and often cheaper), than quality traditional frames.  Some companies will also offer special pricing for commercial and pro photographer clients as well as reduced price proofs.

Bumblejax is a company based in Seattle that offers high quality acrylic prints using the face mount method, with no stand off bolts and a quality dibond back.  Each piece floats off the wall and comes ready to hang.  Special pricing is available for commercial clients and pro photographers and proofs are offered at a fraction of the price.  There are a few other companies out there that meet all the requirements for a quality lab, but this is a great place to start.  They also offer photos mounted to bamboo and raw aluminum for another unique look.

Here’s a video showing a bit of the process used to create an acrylic print over at Bumblejax (note sintra used in this video, but was replaced with dibond early on).

The post Acrylic Prints: Take Your Photos To Another Level first appeared on Photoble.

Here we have a collection of beautiful and inspirational examples of risk-taking photography. And while we’re not suggesting you go to the extreme lengths that some of these guys are prepared to go, perhaps they may encourage you to be a touch bolder next time you head out with a camera.

Teenagers aren’t known for their moderate behaviour, but when you look at the work of the  Skywalkers you may thank your lucky stars that the worst thing yours does is stay out after curfew. Skywalking is new craze with young Russians who go to exceptional lengths, and heights, to capture incredible photographs.

An elegant shot that manages to combine the unlikely elements of beauty and extreme danger. Lounging on to of the Golden Gate Bridge may not be the most obvious way to escape the city, but it sure as heck looks peaceful up there.

Faced with a pouncing tiger at what point would you back down? Wildlife photography and risk taking do go hand in hand, but this incredible face-on photograph goes the extra mile in terms of commitment to the cause.

Risk taking in photography isn’t only about putting you and your camera in danger. It takes bravery to hold your fire in pursuit of the perfect picture.  Timing is everything, as we can see in this magnificently balanced action shot. Note the way in which the diver’s legs perfectly frame the swimmers below; shot a fraction of a second earlier or later, while you’d still have an exciting shot, the harmony would have been completely lost.

Hawaii’s legendary volcanoes are like a magnet to daredevil photographers, and many have lost their lives trying to capture their ferocious beauty. Thankfully Nick Selway and CJ Cale survived the ordeal of 110F waters to capture these incredible images as they swam a mere matter of feet from the scorching lava.

By day James Charwick is a web designer, but by night he’s a risk-taking photographer who’s scaled dizzying heights to capture jaw-dropping cityscapes. He’s been know to climb some of London’s tallest buildings, landmarks and cranes, going as far as 570 feet for some of his shots.

The maritime photographer Kos is also prepared to climb sickening heights in the name of risk photography. He’s pioneered the art of masthead photography, which involves scrambling as high as ten stories to capture miniscule sailors, drenched decks and the roaring ocean below.

The skier in this photo is Tomas Bergemalm, who agreed to leap 600 feet off a snow-capped cliff face while being photographed by Patrick Lindqvist. It was to be Bergemalm’s last stunt before retiring from daredevil antics to live a quiet life with his wife and young son – thankfully they pulled it off without a hitch.

Denis Maitland is a photographer from Detroit who has helped to shape the the shooting-style known as rooftopping. He gets his kicks by climbing old and ruined buildings, heading for the roof and taking a photograph with his legs dangling over the edge. What makes his achievements even more stomach-churning is that Maitland admits to being scared of heights when he initially started out.

And finally a trip back in time to one of the all time greats of risk taking photography; Ivan Unger and Gladys Roy playing tennis on the wings of an airplane in flight. Don’t try this one at home!

The post Examples of Risk Taking Photography first appeared on Photoble.

Taking a silhouette photograph is fairly simple. You only need to find a strong source of light and place the subject in front of that light. Because it is so simple to take a silhouette photograph, you need to think more about the subject of the image than the technical aspects of the lighting and exposure of the camera.

Choosing and Framing The Subject

Consider first the shape of the subject. Because the subject will not be able to grab anyone’s interest with colour, texture or other visual cues, you’ll have to rely on its shape to make a compelling image.

Try to ensure the image is in front of a plain, bright background. If the background is not sufficiently bright or if the light shifts constantly, the silhouette could be lost amongst a darker background.

If you want more than one thing to be the subject of your photo, try to keep them separate. Since they will both be cast in shadow, it will be impossible to tell where one thing ends and the other begins, and it will be hard to tell what the subject of the photograph is.

Finally, silhouette photographs of people usually work best when the people are in profile. This allows some measure of identifying features, like the shape of the nose and chin, to be seen, which makes the subject more interesting to viewers.

Some Technical Aspects

Though most of the work of making a compelling silhouette photo is in the choosing and framing of the subject, there are some technical aspects to keep in mind.

First, make sure that your flash does not go off. You may need to trick your digital camera’s flash setting by pointing your camera at the brightest point in view, then pressing the button halfway down. This essentially tells your camera that you want to focus the photo there, and it will adjust its settings for such a bright shot. Keeping the button halfway down, move the camera so that the shot you want is now in view. Take the picture, and you should have tricked your camera into not using the flash. If you can use manual settings, start with the settings the automatic setting suggests, then experiment with aperture and shutter speed until you get the image you want. If you want to make the subject darker, for example, try slowing down the shutter speed a stop or two.

Make sure that the subject of the photograph is in focus most clearly. A clean, strong line surrounding the thing in silhouette will make the photograph that much more striking. You should either manually set the focus before metering the shot, or you should set a small aperture to increase the depth of vision and ensure the foreground is sharp.

Keep all these tips in mind, and you should be able to produce some gorgeous images like the ones below.

The post A Showcase of Silhouette Photography first appeared on Photoble.

Fotor

Fotor is an in-browser photo editor that can apply different filters and edits similar to Instagram. You can easily upload a photo you would like to edit without needing to register. Within the app, you can change out the color filters, crop images, add text or graphics, and even turn your photos into cards instantly. It also has an HDR editor. Simply upload your 3 images and click start. Fotor then combines the 3 images to create one image with the best coloring and lighting. Besides being able to edit within your browser, the app is also available for Windows 8, iPhones, and Androids.

TiltShiftMaker

One big photography trend right now is Tilt Shift photography. One way to get this effect is using a Tilt Shift lens, which can be expensive, especially if photography is only a hobby for you. Another way you can get this effect is by some creative editing, or by using the TiltShiftMaker. This is an in browser app that lets you upload your photo from your computer or website and give it the Tilt Shift effect. You can change the focus area size, the defocus strength, gradient, as well as the aperture style. Once you are done changing up your image, you can download a copy of the new image. It is free to alter any image you want, but to use some of the aperture styles you have to be a member, which only costs $1 a month.

BeFunky

BeFunky is another editing app that has several different features to make any photo interesting and unique. You can do basic edits such as cropping, color hue and saturation, and resizing. It also lets has extra effects like Pinhole, Stencil, Underpainting, Watercolor, and more. Once you have finished making your edits, you can save, share, and even print your photo through Zazzle.com. It is free to use the basic version of BeFunky, or you can subscribe to a Premium ($4.45 a month) or Professional membership ($14.95 a month). While this app may not have the same powers and skills as Photoshop or LightRoom, it will get the job done in a pinch.

Dropbox

As a photographer, you know that your hard drive space is precious, which is why cloud storage is very helpful. Using cloud technology, you can easily store your photos on your account and access your files from any device that has the Dropbox app. With the free account, you get up to 2 GB of storage and can get up to 500 MB added on for any referrals. Of course you can also upgrade to a Pro account with up to 500 GB of storage. Dropbox also makes it easy to share your files with others, even non-Dropbox users. If you have clients you would like to collaborate with, Dropbox will instantly update changes that you or your client makes to any of the files. Since the app is available in more than just your web browser, you can view your photos and files no matter where you are.

KickSend

KickSend is a great way to share photos without losing any quality. You can easily set up a free account with Kicksend to upload full sized photos and share them with friends, family and clients, even if they don’t have an account. Kicksend has worked hard to make sure you don’t lose any quality of your photos when you up load them to their app. That way it doesn’t matter if you are viewing the photo on a gaming laptop with an awesome graphics card, or an older desktop, you will still get the best quality image. The developers have also made it simple and easy for you to print your photos to your local Walgreen’s, Target, or CVS Pharmacy. All of the photos you upload can be safely and securely stored on Kicksend’s network to be viewed privately from any device that has the app. You can download the app for your Android phone, iOS device, or different web browsers.

Now you can easily edit, store, and share your photos all from within your web browser and access them no matter what device you are using. These apps help cut down on some of the basic problems that photographers face, whether they are professional or hobbyists. Don’t worry about computer space or not being able to afford software and lenses when there are free or cheap apps available.

Do you have a favorite web based service?  We’d love to hear about it in the comments!

The post A Few Top Web Apps For Photographers first appeared on Photoble.