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    <title>photography-reviews.com - everything you wanted to know about photography</title>
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    <description>Photography knowledge shared</description>
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    <pubDate>Mon, 03 Aug 2009 03:39:06 GMT</pubDate>

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        <title>RSS: photography-reviews.com - everything you wanted to know about photography - Photography knowledge shared</title>
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    <title>CPL - circular polariser filters</title>
    <link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/photography-reviews/~3/zYR4zTSXKvk/100-CPL-circular-polariser-filters.html</link>
            <category>starters</category>
    
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    <author>nospam@example.com (photography-reviews.com)</author>
    <content:encoded><![CDATA[
    <ul><br />
  <li>Short Information</li><br />
  <li>Detailed information</li><br />
  <li>Examples</li><br />
</ul><br />
<br />
<h3>Short information</h3><br />
<p>This is second article on photography filters. You can read the first one on <a href="http://www.photography-reviews.com/photography/77-UV-filters.html" alt="What are UV filters and why to use them" title="What are UV filters and why to use them">UV photo filters</a>.</p><br />
<p>For those of you that don't want to get too technical, here are major <strong>benefits of using polarizing filters</strong> (scroll down for examples):</p><br />
<ul><br />
  <li>colors are more <strong>saturated</strong></li><br />
  <li>you can get darker colors in the sky - even<strong> dark blue sky</strong></li><br />
  <li><strong>remove reflections</strong> from water surfaces and glass</li><br />
  <li>use it to <strong>reduce light</strong> so that you can shoot with slower shutter speeds</li><br />
</ul><br />
<br />
<h3>Detailed information on how Polarizing filters work</h3><br />
<p>A physicist would say: <em>most sources of electromagnetic radiation contain a large number of atoms or molecules that emit light. The orientation of the electric fields produced by these emitters may not be correlated, in which case the light is said to be unpolarized</em>. Which, translated to plain English means that: almost all light is, by default, is in state that is unpolarised. Here is a illustration of unpolarised light: <br />
<img src="http://www.photography-reviews.com/uploads/Circular_polarization_schematic.photographyreviews.png" alt=""  /><br />
</p><br />
<p>When this light hits some surface, as glass or water surface - it gets reflected. Leve of reflection depends on entrance angle of the light and surface reflection qualities. Interesting part is that when the reflection occurs, very often the light is being polarized, because only one of atom generated waves is being reflected. To a naked eye - the light is the same. We can not feel any difference.<br />
</p><br />
<p>When we put a polarizing filter in front of our lens, here is what happens. Polarizes acts as filter to the polarization. It has one plane of polarization - and only light that has that plane will pass. All others are blocked. So, if we use polarizer with regular light it will pass one plane and the final image will look the same - just as we did not use any (since we cannot see the difference). However, when we use polarizing filter with polarized light, interesting thing happens. The light has one orientation of its polarization and the filter has other. When those two match - the light is passed. When they do not match - filter will block the light. Quantity of blocking depends on filter make and quality.<br />
</p><br />
<br />
<p>The filter is most effective when used at 90 angles degree from the light. </p><br />
<p>Air atoms reflect and polarize some of the light that hit them. Lets say that we are shooting some landscape. If we put on pol. filter and point the lens at 90 degree from the sun, we can benefit from darker sky. So, get the sun to your left or right shoulder and make that landscape shot with and without the filter. What happens is that the polarized light from air atoms is blocked. So, the sky itself has less light that hits the sensor and it appears darker. This is useful as usually the sky is very bright, and not so pleasant for viewers eye.</p><br />
<br />
<p>Same applies to reflected light from leaves, doors, glass, water surfaces etc</p><br />
<br />
<br />
<h3>Examples</h3><br />
<p><br />
See how the filter darkens the sky, defines clouds and also makes trees little greener <br/><br />
<img src="http://www.photography-reviews.com/uploads/polarization-filter-in-front.jpg" alt=""  /><br />
</p><br />
<br />
<p><br />
Polarization filter is oned on left side. check how it removed the reflection in glass, so you can see through it<br/><br />
<img src="http://www.photography-reviews.com/uploads/polarization-remove-reflection-from-glass.jpg" alt=""  /><br />
</p><br />
<br />
<p><br />
The filter has darkened the sky, and also removed reflection from sea surface so that the sea bottom is visible<br />
<img src="http://www.photography-reviews.com/uploads/polarization-remove-reflection-darken-sky.jpg" alt=""  /><br />
</p> 
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    <pubDate>Sun, 02 Aug 2009 22:18:00 -0400</pubDate>
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<item>
    <title>Travels to the edge with Art Wolfe</title>
    <link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/photography-reviews/~3/LjX3f1FGIUo/99-Travels-to-the-edge-with-Art-Wolfe.html</link>
            <category>reviews and links</category>
    
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    <author>nospam@example.com (photography-reviews.com)</author>
    <content:encoded><![CDATA[
    Being photographer is much more than just taking pictures. <br />
<br />
Often times to make the shot you have to prepare and wait. You have to make a connection with the people you are about to shot. More time can go in organizing the whole process than in actual shooting and postproduction. Its is always great when some photographer reveals parts of this preparation process, too.<br />
<br />
Last year , I watched some of Art Wolfe series Travels to the edge. <br />
Recently, I received one of his books as a present, which reminded me of this great guy.<br />
<br />
Here is a quote from his site:<br />
<!-- s9ymdb:24 --><img class="serendipity_image_left" width="267" height="400" style="float: left; border: 0px; padding-left: 5px; padding-right: 5px;" src="http://www.photography-reviews.com/uploads/art-wolfe-400.jpg" alt=""  /><i>Over the course of his 30-year career, photographer Art Wolfe has worked on every continent and in hundreds of locations. his stunning images interpret and record the world's fast-disappearing wildlife, landscapes and native cultures, and are a lasting inspiration to those who seek to preserve them all. Wolfe's photographs are recognized throughout the world for their mastery of color, composition and perspective.</i><div style="clear: both;" ></div><br />
He has published a lot of books and won many awards.<br />
Art also likes teaching and he has passion for what he does. Knowing that, you should not be surprised that his TV series: Travels To The Edge with Art Wolfe are a great success. Sometimes, I have hard times deciding which one has done better job: Art Wolfe or his cameraman <img src="http://www.photography-reviews.com/templates/default/img/emoticons/smile.png" alt=":-)" style="display: inline; vertical-align: bottom;" class="emoticon" /> The video is just greatly shot. Some very neat tips are also revealed to you as Art shots some of the most beautiful places on Earth. <br />
<br />
If you like nature, wildlife, you will like this videos. If you are a photographer - you will love them.<br />
<br />
I strongly suggest DVDs available on Amazon: <br />
<iframe src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=photograph0c0-20&amp;o=1&amp;p=8&amp;l=as1&amp;asins=B001RDIOAC&amp;md=10FE9736YVPPT7A0FBG2&amp;fc1=000000&amp;IS2=1&amp;lt1=_blank&amp;m=amazon&amp;lc1=0000FF&amp;bc1=000000&amp;bg1=FFFFFF&amp;f=ifr" style="width:120px;height:240px;" scrolling="no" marginwidth="0" marginheight="0" frameborder="0"></iframe><br />
<br />
<iframe src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=photograph0c0-20&amp;o=1&amp;p=8&amp;l=as1&amp;asins=B000FTJ2WS&amp;md=10FE9736YVPPT7A0FBG2&amp;fc1=000000&amp;IS2=1&amp;lt1=_blank&amp;m=amazon&amp;lc1=0000FF&amp;bc1=000000&amp;bg1=FFFFFF&amp;f=ifr" style="width:120px;height:240px;" scrolling="no" marginwidth="0" marginheight="0" frameborder="0"></iframe><br />
<br />
<br />
For most of us, it is not possible to travel to distant places, have the right gear for the job and knowledgeable guide that will take us to the perfect spot. However, this should not discourage you. Actually, the Travels To The Edge series inspired me for one personal project: to create album presenting the small municipality where I was born. I suggest you to take some similar project. After all, it is those selfprojects that make us progress.<br />
<br />
If you have come out with some interesting idea for project,please,  share it with us. 
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    <pubDate>Wed, 04 Mar 2009 14:12:53 -0500</pubDate>
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<item>
    <title>Books as presents for photographers</title>
    <link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/photography-reviews/~3/xJmb9I9vqx8/98-Books-as-presents-for-photographers.html</link>
            <category>reviews and links</category>
    
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    <author>nospam@example.com (photography-reviews.com)</author>
    <content:encoded><![CDATA[
    <p>I received several emails from readers who wanted me to suggest some good books for photographers. Most of them wanted to buy those as a gift.</p><br />
<p>I will make some book reviews in 2009, but since it is a christmass / new year season, I decided to help you in some quick and good way. Amazon have whole section with <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&amp;location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fgp%2Fbestsellers%2Fbooks%2F2020%3Fie%3DUTF8%26ref%255F%3Dpd%255Fts%255Fb%255Fnav&amp;tag=photograph0c0-20&amp;linkCode=ur2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957">bestseller books in photography category</a><img src="https://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=photograph0c0-20&l=ur2&o=1" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" />. Here you can see what people usually buy, so you can choose one based on personal preferences of the person that the book is going to</p><br />
<p>Also, don't forget that National Geographic photography books are always a good choice, especially if the person is just starting or wants to learn a new field. </p><br />
<p>If you are not sure what the person will like, you can always ask them <img src="http://www.photography-reviews.com/templates/default/img/emoticons/smile.png" alt=":-)" style="display: inline; vertical-align: bottom;" class="emoticon" /> In case you prefer to make this as surprise - take a look at my article for <a href="http://www.photography-reviews.com/photography/96-Christmas-presents-for-photographers.html" title="Christmas-presents-for-photographers">good ideas for presents for photographers</a>, or the one which is one year old, but still useful: <a href="http://www.photography-reviews.com/photography/31-Present-for-photographer-during-winter.html">winter presents for photographers</a>  </p> 
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    <pubDate>Thu, 04 Dec 2008 16:41:21 -0500</pubDate>
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    <title>How to create nice looking calendar with your photos</title>
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    <author>nospam@example.com (photography-reviews.com)</author>
    <content:encoded><![CDATA[
    New Year is coming. If you are photographer, here is one video which will help you create stylish calendars, which you can print for yourself or even give as presents. This one uses Photoshop CS3 for achieving look of Apple's calendar. But, it also can be used as guideline for creating any calendar.<br />
<br />
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    <pubDate>Thu, 20 Nov 2008 22:06:42 -0500</pubDate>
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<item>
    <title>Christmas presents for photographers</title>
    <link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/photography-reviews/~3/VCJcmGNW0mg/96-Christmas-presents-for-photographers.html</link>
            <category>reviews and links</category>
    
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    <author>nospam@example.com (photography-reviews.com)</author>
    <content:encoded><![CDATA[
    <p>Take a look at article for <a href="http://www.photography-reviews.com/photography/31-Present-for-photographer-during-winter.html" title="winter presents" >winter presents for photographers</a>.</p><p>Other than those, here are some new ideas, that might be good if you have some photographer around you and don't know what to buy to that photo geek <img src="http://www.photography-reviews.com/templates/default/img/emoticons/smile.png" alt=":-)" style="display: inline; vertical-align: bottom;" class="emoticon" /></p><br />
<p>Here are few things that are always usefull. <br/><br />
- <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F9LY14?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=photograph0c0-20&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B001F9LY14">additional portable and safe storage for photos</a><img src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=photograph0c0-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B001F9LY14" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" />, <br />
- <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X4X35C?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=photograph0c0-20&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B000X4X35C">monitor calibrator (like Spyder 3 Elite)</a><img src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=photograph0c0-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B000X4X35C" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" />,<br />
- <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XZSWMK?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=photograph0c0-20&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B000XZSWMK">18% Percent Neutral Gray Grey Card</a><img src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=photograph0c0-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B000XZSWMK" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" />,<br />
- <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V9RL6G?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=photograph0c0-20&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B000V9RL6G">Bamboo Black Tablet with Pen, Mouse &amp; Graphics Software</a><img src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=photograph0c0-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B000V9RL6G" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" />,<br />
and why not a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015450T6?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=photograph0c0-20&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B0015450T6">Professional Tabletop Photo Studio</a><img src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=photograph0c0-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B0015450T6" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" />, <br />
or <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B8G4R8?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=photograph0c0-20&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B001B8G4R8">Light Tent Studio with 2 Lights</a><img src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=photograph0c0-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B001B8G4R8" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" /></p><p>And, don't forget about books. Photography books are great for present. There are various levels of difficulty and also an amazing number of topics covered at Amazons <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&amp;location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FPhotography-Arts-Books%2Fb%3Fie%3DUTF8%26node%3D2020%26ref%255F%3Dbw%255Fab%255F1%255F11&amp;tag=photograph0c0-20&amp;linkCode=ur2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957">store of books for photographers</a><img src="https://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=photograph0c0-20&l=ur2&o=1" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;"  />.</p><p>Just take a look at photo section of amazon and you will surelly find something for your friend - being that photo backpack, Compact Flash card (memory is never enough) or something small like nice photo album</p><p>On the other hand, you can take a look at some other, but still related presents. Like GPS for a travel photographer <img src="http://www.photography-reviews.com/templates/default/img/emoticons/smile.png" alt=":-)" style="display: inline; vertical-align: bottom;" class="emoticon" /></p> 
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    <pubDate>Thu, 20 Nov 2008 21:29:59 -0500</pubDate>
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<item>
    <title>UV filters</title>
    <link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/photography-reviews/~3/ssTh-H8obSU/77-UV-filters.html</link>
            <category>starters</category>
    
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    <author>nospam@example.com (photography-reviews.com)</author>
    <content:encoded><![CDATA[
    UV filter is probably most used filter of all.<br />
They were more important years ago, but their usage is still useful today.<br />
<br />
First, little simplified psychics.<br />
The lights we see is from one specific range of possible wavelengths (light is electromagnetic wave). The shorter the wave length, light is more bluish, the longer - it is more reddish. When the length of the wave gets too short for our eyes to see it, we call that light an <em>ultraviolet light</em>, or UV light. Just because we don't see it, it does not mean that it can't be detected by some instruments. And here is where our problem occurs.<br />
<br />
The UV lights and visible light both hit exposure sensors. So, actually, the sensor receives more signal, than we see (because UV is invisible to our eyes, but not to our camera sensor). Recorded UV light makes resulting image to appear brighter and with lower contrast than we see it. <br />
<br />
Years ago UV filters were important because film records UV light very well. <br />
The sensor is still sensitive to ultraviolets but not as much. In addition to that, all new lenses have special coatings which filter that unwated part of the light.<br />
<br />
You might ask: so, why are there so many UV filters on market today?<br />
<br />
The most common reason for mounting UV filter on your lens today is protection. If you are photographing on a field (lots of dust) or at any location where there is possibility that your expensive shiny new lens might be damaged - UV filter is here to help. It might be damaged, but who cares - it's price is like .. hundred dollars, but the price of the lens can be in thousands of dollars.<br />
<br />
Theory says that anything that you put between sensor and the object will degrade image quality and probably improve possibility for flare. Same applies to any filter. Degradation is really small and with good filter actually non-existent.<br />
<br />
Should you use UV filter or not?<br />
It is a personal decision one has to make. I will tell you mine.<br />
<br />
On a location (example when shooting off road rally) - you can bet that my UV filter will be on my lens. <br />
When I am shooting for stock in controlled environment, I usually do the work without them.  
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    <pubDate>Thu, 27 Mar 2008 00:47:00 -0400</pubDate>
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    <title>Canon EOS 5D mkII specifications leak</title>
    <link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/photography-reviews/~3/b78La5TQpJY/92-Canon-EOS-5D-mkII-specifications-leak.html</link>
            <category>photo news</category>
    
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    <author>nospam@example.com (photography-reviews.com)</author>
    <content:encoded><![CDATA[
    Some rumors are circuling the net about new Canon middle class body. Actually 5D is a great body even now, but canon fans have been waiting for its successor for a long time. <br />
New body should have:<br />
<br />
- 15.3 <span title="Mega pixel (appr. 1000 000 pixels)" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">MP</span> full frame <span title="Complementary Metal Oxide Semiconductor" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">CMOS</span> sensor (vastly improved light-gathering capacity per pixel: improved micro lenses; miniaturized micro circuitry; enhanced signal/noise ratio)<br />
- Weather sealing same as 1Ds Mark III<br />
- Dual Digic III with all-new "CXR" NR system reported to best 3rd party NR software. Available as a C.F with 4 levels of customizable parameters.<br />
14 bit A/D conversion<br />
- <span title="Sensitivity to light which measures the film's (matrix's) speed" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">ISO</span> 12800 (C.F. up to 25600)<br />
- Reported 1 2/3 stop sensitivity improvement<br />
- All-new 29-point TTL <span title="Complementary Metal Oxide Semiconductor" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">CMOS</span> sensor<br />
with 12 cross-type for F/2.8 or faster lens<br />
(35% faster than 40D)<br />
- Micro lens fine adjustment for up to 14 lenses<br />
- 300,000 exposure shutter durability<br />
- 6.0 / 3.0 <span title="frames per second" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">fps</span><br />
- 3.0" LCD<br />
922,000 pixels<br />
- <span title="Electro-Optical System" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">EOS</span> Integrated Cleaning System<br />
- Live View (improved from 450D; latest generation)<br />
- 6/3 <span title="frames per second" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">fps</span> continuous shooting for up to 68 frames<br />
- MSRP $3499, available June 2 <br />
<br />
sounds like great camera, with probably a little higher price than I expected, regarding the new full frame bodies arround<br />
time will tell if this will be the new 5D mk II <br />
<br />
Check out Canon 5D at Amazon <iframe src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=photograph0c0-20&amp;o=1&amp;p=8&amp;l=as1&amp;asins=B000NPIP1I&amp;fc1=000000&amp;IS2=1&amp;lt1=_blank&amp;lc1=0000FF&amp;bc1=000000&amp;bg1=D3D3D3&amp;f=ifr" style="width:120px;height:240px;" scrolling="no" marginwidth="0" marginheight="0" frameborder="0"></iframe> 
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    <pubDate>Fri, 14 Mar 2008 12:25:54 -0400</pubDate>
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    <title>Digital picture frames</title>
    <link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/photography-reviews/~3/SOMSdv8r_a8/91-Digital-picture-frames.html</link>
            <category>reviews and links</category>
    
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    <author>nospam@example.com (photography-reviews.com)</author>
    <content:encoded><![CDATA[
    Last night I had a discussion with my friend photographer about digital picture frames. We agreed that pretty soon they will become something you'll see in almost every home. <br />
As digital photography is coming more and more popular, amateur photographers all over the world are making less and less printed photographs. Some of you also have the same 'problem'. You have hundreds of photos and none printed. <br />
<br />
One solution would be to select some of your photos and print them. I suggest you to do that. <br />
The other solution is still kind of new, so you might not have heard about it.<br />
Digital picture frame is similar to any picture frame you have seen. The difference is that it has memory and LCD screen. You transfer your photo (usually via USB), and it shows the photo on screen. There are many manufacturers, some are unknows some are big brands like Kodak or Phillips.<br />
<br />
There are some advantages and also disadvantages in this approach. <br />
Bad things first: actually the only bad thing about this is its price. Usually not too expensive but more expensive than regular print of few photos.<br />
The advatages: <br />
- resolution needed for great results is smaller then when you want to print the photo - this is usefull when you crop the picture a lot, or want big print.<br />
- you can see it in the dark, too.<br />
- at the moment when you decide that you want other photo, you just transfer another one - and its done <img src="http://www.photography-reviews.com/templates/default/img/emoticons/smile.png" alt=":-)" style="display: inline; vertical-align: bottom;" class="emoticon" /><br />
- it looks sexy <img src="http://www.photography-reviews.com/templates/default/img/emoticons/wink.png" alt=";-)" style="display: inline; vertical-align: bottom;" class="emoticon" /><br />
<br />
In case you don't know which digital photo frame to choose, check this review at <a href="http://www.coolest-gadgets.com/20071004/digital-picture-frames-comparison/" target="_blank">coolest gadgets</a>.<br />
 
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    <pubDate>Fri, 12 Oct 2007 18:53:52 -0400</pubDate>
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    <title>Some nice photographs and comments</title>
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            <category>reviews and links</category>
    
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    <author>nospam@example.com (photography-reviews.com)</author>
    <content:encoded><![CDATA[
    Every one of us sees and feels photographs in different way. I like to read comments of people with good visual culture. I might not always agree with them, but it is good to read opinion of others.<br />
<br />
National Geographic had contest called <strong>Your shot</strong>.<br />
I suggest you to <a href="http://www7.nationalgeographic.com/ngm/yourshot/top-shots/top-shots.html" target="_blank">take a look at top photos and listen to comments</a> from NG photo editor Susan Welchman. 
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    <pubDate>Thu, 11 Oct 2007 12:30:16 -0400</pubDate>
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    We have moved to new, better server. The site should now be faster.<br />
If you experience any problems, please <a href="http://www.photography-reviews.com/pages/contactform.html" title="contact">contact us</a>.<br />
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    <pubDate>Mon, 13 Aug 2007 18:33:38 -0400</pubDate>
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    <title>How to follow our site for new articles</title>
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    <author>nospam@example.com (photography-reviews.com)</author>
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    There are different ways you can use to check if some site has new articles.<br />
Most commonly used is to go to the site and check it yourself. There are others, more advanced ways<br />
<br />
Up to now, we offered our articles in RSS feed. You can read more about it at <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RSS" target="_blank">wikipedia RSS article</a>. <br />
<br />
We now use advanced services to offer you even more ways to follow the site. If you click on our RSS feed and open it in your browser, in its upper right part, you will see options to integrate our feed into various sites like: google, yahoo, bloglines, newsgator, netvibes and many more. Since today, you can even subscribe to receive latest articles in your email inbox. This way, if something new is published, you will receive link to it in your inbox. No more than one email daily is sent. If there is nothing new, no email will be sent.<br />
<br />
Link to our <a href="http://www.photography-reviews.com/feeds/index.rss2" title="RSS feed for photography articles" target="_blank">RSS feed</a>.<br />
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    <pubDate>Wed, 04 Jul 2007 19:17:33 -0400</pubDate>
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    <title>Photo Exposure explained - histogram, ISO, shoot speed, aperture</title>
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    <author>nospam@example.com (photography-reviews.com)</author>
    <content:encoded><![CDATA[
    <h3>Introduction</h3><br />
There are three things that influence on your <strong>photo exposure</strong>: duration of shot, how open is aperture, and <span title="Sensitivity to light which measures the film's (matrix's) speed" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">ISO</span>. <br />
In this article I will explain all of them.<br />
<br />
I suggest to have your camera with you, while you read the article, and check and test things as you read them. Choose manual mode (often marked as M), so that you will have full control over camera settings.<br />
<br />
<h3>Exposure and histogram</h3><br />
Photo exposure is the term that we use to describe how bright is the photo. Simply said: photo has good exposure when it is not neither too dark or too bright. However, there are ways to scientifically describe when a photo is in good exposure. Open your favorite photo editing software. Most of them will have option to show you the <strong>photo histogram</strong>. It graphically shows the dark and bright <br />
parts of your photo. So, by looking at this graph, you can say if the photo is <strong>overexposured </strong>or <strong>underexposured </strong>and make the corrections. Most of newer digital cameras show this histogram when you preview the photo on its display. Some even show it during the framing, so that you can make the changes in settings even before the shot. The more the graph is gathered in left part - the photo is darker, and vice versa.<br />
Here is a histogram of underexposured photo:<br />
<img src="http://www.photography-reviews.com/uploads/underexposure.gif" alt="under exposure histogram" /><br />
Overexposured:<br />
<img src="http://www.photography-reviews.com/uploads/overexposure.gif" alt="over exposure histogram" /><br />
Correct exposure:<br />
<img src="http://www.photography-reviews.com/uploads/correct-exposure.gif" alt="correct exposure histogram" /><br />
<br />
Of course, specific conditions or wanted feel and look can define different wanted histograms. For example, the overexposed histogram above is from this photo:<br />
<img src="http://www.photography-reviews.com/uploads/overexposure-example.jpg" alt=""  /><br />
<br />
The photo is just the way I want it to be. So, the fact that the histogram shows that the photo is not correctly exposured does not mean that it is not good. However, histogram is very useful and I suggest you to use it. Learn how to read it - it can tell you things about photo exposure, contrast and other things. <br />
<br />
<br />
<h3>Shooting speed</h3><br />
The time for which the photo sensor (matrix) is exposured to the light is called shooting speed. Obviously, the more time the light falls on the sensor, the brighter the photo will be. If we set the three settings to some values, and then change the shooting speed to be twice longer. Technically speaking the photo made with second settings will have one stop of exposure more light than the first one. Exposure stops are important and if you want to master the manual mode of your camera, you have to understand it. So, if you have speed setting at 1/100th of a second and you want to adjust the speed so that you will receive photo which will be two steps underexposured, we would have to use speed of 1/25th of a second. For one stop, the value is 1/50th, and from that value one stop more is twice shorter than that.<br />
<br />
<h3>Aperture</h3><br />
Aperture is a measure for how much is the lens opened. The more you open it - the more light comes in for the same time. One of most important feature of each lens is the one which shows how much the lens can be opened. The values are measured in f-stops and written as: f/value. Since the value is a denominator, the smaller the value - the lens is more open (and more light is passing through the lens).  Lenses are always mentioned together with their maximum f-stop value. For example: Canon 70-200mm f/2.8 IS <span title="&quot;Luxury&quot; lenses - highest built and optic quality - for Canon" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">L</span> is the full name of one of the best zoom lenses by Canon. It means that the biggest aperture you can set this lens is f/2.8. Some lenses even have aperture values lower than 1.0 - the 'lightest' lens is made for film cameras and its aperture is 0.7.<br />
I already mentioned f-stops. Here are the values of apertures that are full f-stops: <br />
0.5, 0.7, 1.0, 1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22, 32, 45, 64, 90, 128 ...<br />
Modern lenses often have one-third stops values for finer settings. <br />
Now, you might wonder why those strange numbers. The F number itself is calculated by formula: <br />
f# = f/D<br />
where f# is the f/number, f is the focal length, and D is the diameter of the entrance pupil. The one f-step difference means that the light that passes through lens at f/2.8 is twice more than when we set the lens at f/4. Now, remember that we already had that 'twice light' in the definition of exposure. <br />
<br />
This knowledge gives us the power to guess what speed and aperture to use in situations where we can not measure the light.<br />
For example, one of the most popular exposure rules is the <strong>Sunny 16 rule</strong>: "<em>An approximately correct exposure will be obtained on a sunny day by using an aperture of f/16 and a shutter speed close to the reciprocal of the <span title="Sensitivity to light which measures the film's (matrix's) speed" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">ISO</span> speed of the film; for example, using <span title="Sensitivity to light which measures the film's (matrix's) speed" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">ISO</span> 100, an aperture of f/16 and a shutter speed of 1/100 second</em>"<br />
<br />
If your camera (in Auto mode) says that in order to get good exposure it will use f/5.6 and 1/40, but the photo is blurred because of fast moving objects, you can make the needed calculations so that you will have correct exposure and faster shooting speed. Lets say that you want to double your shooting speed. Set camera to manual mode and the speed to 1/80 (twice faster). This means that if we don't change anything else the photo will be 1 step under correct exposure. In order to achieve correct exposure, we can change the aperture. take a look at above list of full stop f-numbers. The number with one stop bigger aperture than 5.6 is f/4. So, we will set the aperture to f/4. The photo taken with 1/40 and f/5.6 will be equally exposured as the one taken with 1/80 and f/4.<br />
<br />
<h3><span title="Sensitivity to light which measures the film's (matrix's) speed" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">ISO</span></h3><br />
In short, <span title="Sensitivity to light which measures the film's (matrix's) speed" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">ISO</span> is sensitivity to light which measures the matrix's speed. <br />
<br />
Sometimes you want to use very high shooting speeds, like 1/4000, but your lens does not not have aperture so big that the photo will be correctly exposed. <br />
<br />
The part of your digital camera that catches the light is called matrix. <br />
It has one property, called <span title="Sensitivity to light which measures the film's (matrix's) speed" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">ISO</span> and it can be changed. It also influences exposure and it also has full stops values. Here is a list of <span title="Sensitivity to light which measures the film's (matrix's) speed" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">ISO</span> values with one exposure stop difference between them:<br />
25, 50, 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400, ..<br />
<br />
Lets say that  you set your <span title="Sensitivity to light which measures the film's (matrix's) speed" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">ISO</span> to 100, and your aperture is at f/2.8, and your shooting speed is 1/250 of a second and with these settings you manage to get photo which is correctly exposured, but you need even higher shooting speed. Professional sport photographers often use speed no slower than 1/2000. Lets imagine that we want to achieve speed of 1/1000th of a second and our lens is already at its widest aperture - we cannot open it wider. So, from 1/250 to 1/1000 are two stops (we calculate this in this way: from 1/250 to 1/500 is one stop, and from 1/500 to 1/1000 another stop). Now, in order to use same aperture of f/2.8, speed of 1/1000 and achieve good exposure we will have to use <span title="Sensitivity to light which measures the film's (matrix's) speed" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">ISO</span> 400.<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3>Notes</h3><br />
All this might seem to mathematical to those of you who just want to take snapshots of friends. Actually, most modern cameras have modes which will do needed calculations for you. However, there are situations where the camera is wrong. Actually it does not make mistake, it just doesn't know what exactly you want to picture. In those situations, it is handy to know about speed. f-stops and <span title="Sensitivity to light which measures the film's (matrix's) speed" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">ISO</span>.<br />
And for the end - don't forget to test and experiment.<br />
<br />
In one of next articles I will focus on <span title="Sensitivity to light which measures the film's (matrix's) speed" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">ISO</span>, aperture and speed and how they influence the final result more closely. 
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    <pubDate>Mon, 25 Jun 2007 23:21:54 -0400</pubDate>
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    <title>Header images - first one</title>
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            <category>site news</category>
    
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    <author>nospam@example.com (photography-reviews.com)</author>
    <content:encoded><![CDATA[
    I think that it will be interesting to keep track of all images that I used as header images.<br />
I am replacing current one with new, so this post will show the old one.<br />
<br />
So, here it is, the first pic used in site header:<br />
<img src="http://www.photography-reviews.com/headers/baby-high-key.jpg" alt="baby high key" /> 
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    <pubDate>Thu, 21 Jun 2007 04:47:39 -0400</pubDate>
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    <title>How I decided to buy Canon EOS 300D</title>
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    <author>nospam@example.com (photography-reviews.com)</author>
    <content:encoded><![CDATA[
    My first <span title="digital Single Lens Reflex" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">dSLR</span> was Canon <span title="Electro-Optical System" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">EOS</span> Digital Rebel, also known as Canon Digital Kiss and Canon <span title="aka Digital Rebel and Digital Kiss" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">300D</span>.<br />
<br />
Buying first <span title="digital Single Lens Reflex" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">dSLR</span> can be very difficult choice, especially in these days when the entry-level market offers great variety of models, from different manufacturers, each with its own PROs and CONs.<br />
<br />
Choosing the manufacturer (the brand) and model is both objective and subjective thing. <br />
In this article I will tell you <strong>how I decided to buy Canon <span title="Electro-Optical System" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">EOS</span> <span title="aka Digital Rebel and Digital Kiss" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">300D</span></strong>, few years ago.<br />
<br />
I already had Canon Powershot A80. You can read <a href="http://www.photography-reviews.com/photography/62-How-I-chose-what-compact-digital-photo-camera-to-buy.html"  title="how i decided to buy canon powershot a80">how I decided to buy it here</a>. <br />
<br />
A80 was excellent camera with its 3x zoom, 4MP sensor and great photos when the conditions were good. Yes, when the conditions were good. Back then, shooting at <span title="Sensitivity to light which measures the film's (matrix's) speed" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">ISO</span> 400 with a compact camera was more suicide, than anything else (like achieving some acceptable result). When I say bad conditions I mean something like: bad weather (dark), indoor photos without flash, shooting some action photos etc. Sure, with some prefocusing, tripod and understanding of how camera works, you can achieve pretty good results. But, I wanted better results. Also, I started to enjoy shooting sport. Indoor sport. This means: low-light conditions and fast moving objects. <br />
<br />
<div class="serendipity_imageComment_left" style="width: 160px"><div class="serendipity_imageComment_img"><a class='serendipity_image_link' href='http://www.photography-reviews.com/uploads/random/example-football-with-a80-1.jpg'><!-- s9ymdb:15 --><img width="160" height="120" src="http://www.photography-reviews.com/uploads/random/example-football-with-a80-1.photographyreviews.jpg" alt=""  /></a></div><div class="serendipity_imageComment_txt">Here is example of typical photo achieved with A80 in mentioned conditions. High <span title="Sensitivity to light which measures the film's (matrix's) speed" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">ISO</span> noise and motion blur are visible.<br/>EXIF details: 1/80, f/4</div></div><br />
<div class="serendipity_imageComment_left" style="width: 160px"><div class="serendipity_imageComment_img"><a class='serendipity_image_link' href='http://www.photography-reviews.com/uploads/random/waiting.jpg'><!-- s9ymdb:17 --><img width="160" height="115" src="http://www.photography-reviews.com/uploads/random/waiting.photographyreviews.jpg" alt=""  /></a></div><div class="serendipity_imageComment_txt">Achieved with prefocusing. This, as well as above photo has motion blur. While it serves as effect in this photo, it is a defect in the other<br/>EXIF details: 1/50, f/4</div></div><br />
<br />
Few weeks before my sport shooting attempts, I was thinking to buy tele and wide convertors, which should also allow me to use filters with my camera. Luckily, I left this idea very soon, and realized that what I needed was an <span title="digital Single Lens Reflex" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">dSLR</span>. <br />
<br />
I really knew where I was going: <span title="digital Single Lens Reflex" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">dSLR</span> usually means more money, accessories and weight. On the other side, I also knew what were the benefits.<br />
<br />
Canon A80 found its new owner pretty fast. From what I know he uses it even today. Now, I had to choose what exactly I wanted to buy. Actually, I was thinking about that for some time, but final answer came clear just after I sold the powershot. <br />
<br />
I decided that I should buy second hand <span title="digital Single Lens Reflex" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">dSLR</span> body with one lens, which should not be of lowest quality, maybe some filter for it and some photo bag. <br />
<br />
Back then, it was only a choice between Nikon and Canon. Here is another advice which you might not hear very often: it is good to have friends with compatible equipment. So, when you need something (like flash or ultra-wide lens), you can borrow the same. I already had canon photo camera and I was satisfied. I also had few friends which had Canon dSLRs. I also knew that Canon had the cheapest <span title="digital Single Lens Reflex" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">dSLR</span> on the market, and this was also very important, with my low budget in mind. Another important thing to know: low level body with first class lens will produce far better results than first class body with bad lens. All this leaded me to the choice of <span title="aka Digital Rebel and Digital Kiss" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">300D</span>. Actually, I still searched for Nikon offers, too. <br />
<br />
Very soon, I saw one great offer for Canon <span title="aka Digital Rebel and Digital Kiss" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">300D</span>. The price was good and the timing was perfect. I arranged testing of the machine. (Remember to test even new cameras. If you can, bring someone with more experience with that particular or similar models) Testing went ok, the jpegs I checked at home were great. And, it was it. <br />
<br />
<span title="aka Digital Rebel and Digital Kiss" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">300D</span> was bought. Few days later I bought Sigma 18-125mm with UV filter. It is very good 'tourist' lens, like I like to call it, with good focusing speed and image quality. After that a Lowepro backpack (which was just half full back then), later on accessories were bought one by one and wishlist had more and more checks. <br />
<br />
My first impressions from new camera were focusing speed, better control of <span title="Depth of field" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">DOF</span>, acceptable results at high <span title="Sensitivity to light which measures the film's (matrix's) speed" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">ISO</span> speeds and lots of buttons to master. <br />
<br />
Even if <span title="aka Digital Rebel and Digital Kiss" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">300D</span> is the cheapest <span title="digital Single Lens Reflex" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">dSLR</span> and it also has some software and hardware limitations, it is great camera even today. <br />
<br />
In one of my next articles, expect a short course to basketball photography and show you some of my photos from <span title="aka Digital Rebel and Digital Kiss" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">300D</span>. 
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    <pubDate>Sun, 27 May 2007 06:50:00 -0400</pubDate>
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    <title>Accessories you have to buy for your dSLR</title>
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    In our <a href="http://www.photography-reviews.com/photography/61-Accessories-you-have-to-buy-for-your-compact-photo-camera.html"  title="accessories for compact photo cameras">previous article</a> we talked about compact cameras and accessories for them.<br />
<br />
I will focus now on things specific to <span title="digital Single Lens Reflex" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">dSLR</span> cameras. If you are buying one, it usually means that you are not absolute beginner, but since price (and size) of those photo cameras is dropping with every year, in order to provide best information, I will write some things that you might already know.<br />
<br />
Interesting thing about serious <span title="digital Single Lens Reflex" class="serendipity_glossaryMarkup">dSLR</span> equipment is that at the end, the camera body is the cheapest part. While, this is not always true, it says how important are other parts of your system.<br />
<br />
I will write about lenses in some other article, because this is a subject that deserves at least one separate article.<br />
Flashes are another subject, too.<br />
<br />
1) If you don't like the size and price of <br />
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007WK8LC?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=photograph0c0-20&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B0007WK8LC">battery grips</a><img src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=photograph0c0-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B0007WK8LC" width="1" height="1"  border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" />, you should at least have one backup battery (which should always be charged).<br />
<br />
2) buy yourself serious photo bag. Choose your style: big, small, backpack or not, but choose from good and <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00007E7UN?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=photograph0c0-20&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B00007E7UN"> reputable manufacturer</a><img src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=photograph0c0-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B00007E7UN" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" />. I also suggest to have one big backpack for all your equipment and one small bag just for your camera with one or two lenses. <br />
<br />
3) With digital photography shooting more is no longer expensive. Well, you do have to buy that memory card once, but after that it is free. In case you shot a lot of pictures and travel a lot, you might consider buying <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000J3YFM2?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=photograph0c0-20&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B000J3YFM2">photobank</a><img src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=photograph0c0-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B000J3YFM2" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" />.<br />
<br />
4) you should have at least one tripod. Based on your shooting style, you might use it occasionally or daily. In case you like mountain hiking, consider buying some <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CQ3DVU?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=photograph0c0-20&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B000CQ3DVU">lightweight and stable tripod</a><img src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=photograph0c0-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B000CQ3DVU" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" /><br />
<br />
5) use UV filters on your lenses - this way you will protect them from scratches<br />
<br />
6) you can also buy polarizer filters and some other like star-effect filers. Polarizers are very useful and I recommend having at least one and using it on more lenses with step-up rings 
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    <pubDate>Tue, 15 May 2007 22:00:48 -0400</pubDate>
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