I often come across several questions (throughout the various photography forums which I like to visit) regarding “how to shoot fireworks photos,” and although I find lots of good information, they are often bits and pieces scattered about. Since I myself have had (what I consider to be) success in shooting fireworks, I thought I would share these helpful tips for those of you who will be bringing your cameras along to the Fourth of July celebrations.

Daytime Shooting:
If you are planning a picnic in the park or a day at the beach, there are a few things to keep in mind in order to get the best possible photos. If the weather is co-operating with you, and you have a nice sunny day to shoot, be sure to bring along your circular polarizers or ND filters for your lenses. They will not only help cut down the glare of the hot sun, but they will also help you achieve those deep blue skies. I would also recommend bringing your tripod for the evening, but leaving it in the car during the day. It’s not going to be necessary for your daytime shooting, and will only get in either your or other people’s way. Chances are wherever you go to celebrate, it’s going to be busy and we want to make sure that we are carrying as little gear as possible. 

If you are celebrating the daytime with loved ones, slap on a nice 50mm or your favourite portrait lens, and take as many candid shots as you can of your family and friends having a ball without the standard “pose for the camera” shots (although sometimes those can be fun too – especially the goofy ones). You’ll find that shooting these types of photos captures the memorable spirit of the celebration. If you are celebrating with children, don’t forget to switch your camera’s shooting mode to “continuous” or “burst” mode and fire off rapid successions of shots of the kids playing. When you go back to preview them, you will find some great expressions captured.

Night Shooting (Fireworks):
As the daylight begins to fade away, you may want to break out your flash unit for some nice portraits against the sunset, along with your tripod for stability. While there is still some available light as the sun sets, you will find that your portraits and scenic shots of the celebrations and location will have a great tone to the images, thanks to the magic of the low angled lighting from the sunset. Now is probably a good time to also stake out your spot for shooting the upcoming fireworks!

Bring Your Tripod:
First and foremost, the single most important thing you need to have when shooting fireworks is a tripod. Whether you are shooting with a point and shoot camera, or a fancy digital SLR, you simply won’t be able to hold the camera steady enough by hand due to the relatively long exposure times required in fireworks photography. Tripods are a MUST! With that being said, you should also remember that if you are planning on brining a tripod to an event such as the Fourth of July (or any fireworks celebrations for that matter), there are bound to be plenty of people all trying to claim enough space to stand or sit comfortably, so you’ll want to go a little early to set up your tripod before the crowds arrive.

Switch to Manual Focus:
Before we get into shutter speeds and apertures, the one important thing to do first is switch your camera to MANUAL focus, then focus to infinity. In very low lighting situations such as shooting fireworks, your camera’s autofocus is going to have a heck of a time trying to decide where exactly to focus, plus you want your entire scene to be as sharp as possible. Setting your camera to focus on infinity in manual mode will ensure that your shots are as focussed as possible, regardless of your zooming and framing of your scene.

Aperture, Shutter Speed, ISO:
When shooting fireworks, you’ll achieve great results if you shoot with a fairly long exposure time. If you are using a point and shoot digital camera, most of them have a dedicated “fireworks” mode or setting. If you are shooting with a digital SLR, you’ll want to use anywhere from a 4-5 second exposure, shooting at an aperture of f11 or even f16. You also want to eliminate any noise in your images, so I would recommend keeping your ISO setting down to 100 or 200 maximum. To achieve the best results, you will be best off to change your camera’s mode to MANUAL so that you can set these exposures and shutter speeds manually. One of the best tools to have with you (in addition to your tripod) would be a shutter release cable. That way, you can set up the initial framing of your shots, and control the shutter while still getting to watch those beautiful fireworks. Also, a shutter release cable would be especially userful if you want to use your camera’s bulb mode to capture even longer exposures.

Another experiment you can do, is to set your aperture very small, say at f22 or even f32, and shoot with an exposure time of 20-30 seconds. You’ll be able to catch several fireworks in the frame, and the results can be outstanding!

Adjusting Settings:
Here’s how you can adjust your settings to achieve the best results.

Fireworks too bright/dark: Adjust your aperture to control the brightness. Smaller apertures (higher f-numbers) will darken the fireworks if they are too bright. Opening the aperture wider (lower f-numbers) will brighten them if they appear too dark.

Firework trails too long/short: This is where you adjust the shutter speed. If your trails are too long, then your shutter is open too long. You can increase the shutter speed for shorter streaks of light, or lengthen it to make those light trails longer.

Breaking the Rules: Sometimes breaking the rules can work extremely well too. Try super long exposures (but don’t forget to close your aperture down) or very short exposures (open your aperture here) and you’ll get some creative shots!

Framing Your Shots:
In framing your shots, it will all depend on the type of photos you are after. If you like the closeup and tight shots of the fireworks blast as in the above image, you will want to bring a zoom lens which can go to at least 200mm. That will allow your camera to get up close and personal with those fireworks. If you prefer to capture the fireworks in a landscape or “entire scene” view, bring a nice wide angle lens. Here’s a look at what a wide angle lens would be likely to capture:

Last year, I brought along a 16-45mm wide angle for the above shot, and a 50-200mm lens for some closeups such as the first image in this posting. If you haven’t learned to switch your lenses on the fly quickly, then spend some time the night before (July 3rd) practicing. I would spend about 5 min with your zoom lens to get some cool closeups, then switch to your wide angle for the rest of the event. The finale moment of any fireworks show is usually quite spectacular, and you’ll want to capture the scene as a whole.

Post Processing Fireworks Photography:
As Kevin mentioned in yesterday’s posting on shooting fireworks, you may find that as the show goes on, there is lots of smoke in the air. While this can sometimes produce some cool shots too, you may find that it only increases the amount of reflected light in your scene, leaving the skies in your fireworks shots looking a bit hazy. Post processing fireworks photography is probably one of the most easy types of photography to work with. All you really need to do is make your skies black, and your fireworks vibrant. If you are processing in RAW, you can either use your “Blacks” slider or curves to darken the shadow areas of your images. I personally prefer to take my skies all the way to a nice deep black, but of course your preference prevails in your own photography. Next, I like to boost the saturation and/or vibrance of the colours up approximately +20 for each. I find that it gives the firework trails a very nice pop, and vibrant colour blend. Lastly, all that’s really left to do is some sharpening. Sharpen your photos preferably in Photoshop or Elements, and you are finished – How simple is that!

I hope these quick and easy tips will come in handy, and help you to further enjoy your Fourth of July holiday weekend by snapping some fantastic fireworks photography!

How to Photograph Fireworks – By Kevin Simpson.
It’s that time of year again. For some of us it’s fireworks time.

I don’t know about you, but when I started out trying to photograph this majestic event I had the worst, dismal, awful time doing it. I read tutorial after another one. Nothing seemed to work. What I do agree with: Using a tripod of course, is a must. Other than that, I mostly don’t…

If you’re new to this arena, I want to help clear it up. There are some absolutes, and then there are some that aren’t quite so absolute. Let’s start with the absolutes:

Location
When you arrive to a new location where you’ve never seen fireworks before, ask people where the fireworks will go off. You’ll want to set up out of the way of people and any bright street lights or other lights that might be behind you. If you have these lights behind you, and you don’t shield the viewfinder, you’ll more than likely have some poor results as light can creep in through the viewfinder too. The same is true if you have lights in front of your camera, so steer clear of the lights whenever possible.

Your Gear
Now, let’s talk about the settings and what lens you’ll need. I use two different cameras when shooting fireworks. I freelance for newspapers so I’m always need to be in a position to capture the moment. On one, I’ll use a wide lens for my horizontal shots like my 16-35mm lens. On the other camera, I use my 24-70mm lens for the vertical shots. If you’re far away you may want to consider  a tele-zoom lens like the 70-200 lens.

I’ve found using an ISO of 200 works well with fireworks. Next, do not use auto-focus. Set your focus on infinity. Next, set your Aperture to f/9. Using auto white balance will work well when shooting fireworks.

Let’s talk exposure. There are some grey areas here; it comes down to experimenting. If you’re using a cable remote, set your camera exposure to the bulb setting. When you see the fireworks launch, activate your remote. When you see the fireworks explode and fizzle out, that’s when you need to complete your shot. Sometimes, it could take as long as 5 seconds, sometimes 1/4 of a second or even less depending if you’re shooting a mega burst. When they are going off full glory, the fireworks are very bright, so you do not want too long an exposure.

So you say hey, I don’t have a remote, now what smarty pants? Never fear, I wouldn’t leave ya hangin’ like that, would I? Okay, don’t answer that. It’s been well established in photography, if you want a sweet shot, either use your timer or remote for those sharp photos, right? In night time photography…in this case, pushing on the shutter will not harm the image with these exposures. I do not recommend however setting your exposure on the bulb setting if you’re not using a remote. Instead, used a fixed exposure setting. In the previous paragraph I recommended using up to a 5 second exposure to 1/4s. It all depends on how bright of a cycle the fireworks show is at the present time. I’ve tried using a 2 second timer on the camera and did not notice any difference than just pushing on the shutter what so ever. Try both way’s and see if I’m telling the truth or not.

It’s also been said that after the first five minutes of the fireworks show, pack it up due to the heavy smoke from the fireworks, the smoke in the background will kill the image. Maybe, maybe not. I think sometimes the smoke adds to the ambiance of the moment. Again, experiment. Some shots looks great with the smoke and some will not.

I hope you find these tips helpful. Good luck, have a Coke and a smile, and some great fireworks photographic fun!
Here is a link to my fireworks photography gallery for some further examples:
http://www.pbase.com/kdsphotography/fireworks

Apologies for any inconvenience and thank you to everyone for participating. Now let’s see those “Unique Doors!”

VANCOUVER, CANADA – PhotographyBB announced today, the release of the 17th edition of the PhotographyBB Magazine Online. The PhotographyBB Magazine Online is a leading resource in the future of free information distribution, offering readers: Digital Photography tips and techniques, DSLR camera function training, and image post processing tutorials in Adobe® Photoshop™, and RAW processing in Photoshop Lightroom™.

The June 2009 edition features articles on photography techniques and issues facing today’s digital photographer. Readers will learn tips on composition and how keeping things simple can lead to great photography. The issue also examines how to overcome “photographer’s block” when lack of inspiration occurs. Included is also a Photoshop® tutorial on creating an urban “grunge” type effect for dramatic impact. 

Editor in Chief, Dave Seeram had these comments regarding this recent release:

“Issue 17 is all about stunning photography; from photography techniques down to our reader submissions, this month the magazine is packed with photos. Last month we launched a new column on Frequently Asked Questions, and the response has been phenomenal. Readers have emailed in some brilliant questions, and our columnist (Colin Bell) has done a superb job with the responses.

In our Photography Around the World column, photographer Ian Miller takes us to Cambodia, a place of interesting history and rich culture. We also have some tips on how you can make money with your photography, an editorial for the film purists, a look at 50mm prime lenses, and an interview with one very talented photographer!”

By way of download in either PDF or ZIP formats, PhotographyBB continues its trend through the future of free downloadable magazine distribution. In a completely ad-free format, each issue contains informative and educational tutorials for amateur and intermediate level photographers.

In addition to articles which aide photographers in getting the most from their DSLR cameras, the PhotographyBB Online Magazine also features useful and applicable tutorials on how to use post-processing tools such as Photoshop and Lightroom, to build on digital photography post-processing skills.

PhotographyBB Online Magazine is available for free download through the PhotographyBB Website at: http://www.photographyBB.com/magazine

PhotographyBB was founded in Oct, 2006, and is a division of PowerButton Central (2004).
For more information, visit the PhotographyBB website at: http://www.photographybb.com
Twitter: http://www.twitter.com/photographybb
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/photographybb

Participating in photo challenges and assignments for various photography magazines is an excellent way to “get your foot in the door.” Once you have been published a few times, you start to build a small portfolio of accomplishments for yourself. Add that to the fact that there is no greater satisfaction and confidence booster than seeing your photo in print for the first time.

Stick to the Theme!
The important thing to remember when submitting photos for assignments and contests is that you stick to the theme. More often than not, publications will run photography contests and participants will deviate from the theme of the contest, thus making them inelligable! The best way to approach an assignment is to consider the theme, and think of ways that you may photograph that theme – differently. That’s the key to winning challenges and assignments, and ultimately having your photo published.

See What Others are Doing, and Do Yours Better.
This is one of the best ways, when possible, to make your photos stand out from the crowd. When you are given a theme for a photography challenge, it’s best to think of a unique way to photograph that particular theme. If the theme is “Landscapes” you can bet there will be hundreds of photos of mountains, plains, etc… but how could you take a photo that would stand out amongst many similar images. The key is to think outside the box, while inside the theme. Think about some of the things we’ve done in our previous challenges to get your creative juices going. Things like getting creative with depth of field, shutter speeds, interesting and different angles, etc. By doing something different and making your image stand out from the crowd, you are more likely to have your image noticed.

Follow the Format!
The last piece of advice, and one of the most important, is to follow the format. Often times, contest judges and editors receive so many submissions, that going through them can be quite a lot of time and work. If there are image guidelines for size, resolution, file format, or file sizes, then you should make sure your image conforms to all of them. Guidelines are put in place to help streamline the judging process and the publishing process, so having your image thrown out over something like that is just plain silly! Following the guidelines makes it that much easier for your photo to be chosen.

Once again, we run bi-weekly contests in our forum and over at our Flickr group, giving you the opportunity to have your work published in our magazine – The PhotographyBB Online Magazine which is read by tens of thousands. Good luck with your entries, and above all – have fun with it!

You can submit your entry to the contest here:
PhotographyBB Forum Assignment Thread (up to 3 entries per member)
Flickr Assignment Thread (1 entry per member)

VANCOUVER, CANADA – PhotographyBB announced today, the release of the 16th edition of the PhotographyBB Magazine Online. The PhotographyBB Magazine Online is a leading resource in the future of free information distribution, offering readers: Digital Photography tips and techniques, DSLR camera function training, and image post processing tutorials in Adobe® Photoshop™, and RAW processing in Photoshop Lightroom™.

The May 2009 edition is packed with helpful tips for beginners to intermediate level digital photographers. This month the magazine explores positive ways to engage law enforcement officials, preparing your gear for rainy day photography, and a brand new “readers questions” column. Additionally there are Photoshop™ and Lightroom™ tutorials for photographers to get the most out of their post processing techniques.

Editor in Chief, Dave Seeram had these comments regarding this recent release:

“Issue 16, for me, is a bit more down to earth. We wanted to put together an issue that would be helpful to beginners as well as intermediate level photographers. That’s why this month I am really happy to welcome a new column to the magazine which addresses actual questions sent in by our readers. We’re also exploring various issues that all photographers face, such as photography when it comes to the law, and this month’s feature on preparing your gear so that you don’t have to stay indoors on those rainy days.

Additionally, my ‘vacation spot’ list is getting longer thanks to our Photography Around the World column, where this month we visit the vibrant Isla de Mujeres. We’ve also got out photo assignment top picks from the PhotographyBB Forum assignments as well as the top images from our Flickr group – some truly inspiring work from all the participants!”

By way of download in either PDF or ZIP formats, PhotographyBB continues its trend through the future of free downloadable magazine distribution. In a completely ad-free format, each issue contains informative and educational tutorials for amateur and intermediate level photographers.

In addition to articles which aide photographers in getting the most from their DSLR cameras, the PhotographyBB Online Magazine also features useful and applicable tutorials on how to use post-processing tools such as Photoshop and Lightroom, to build on digital photography post-processing skills.

PhotographyBB Online Magazine is available for free download through the PhotographyBB Website at: http://www.photographyBB.com/magazine

PhotographyBB was founded in Oct, 2006, and is a division of PowerButton Central (2004).
For more information, visit the PhotographyBB website at: http://www.photographybb.com
Twitter: http://www.twitter.com/photographybb

Over Previous K Series Cameras

GOLDEN, CO. (May 20, 2009) PENTAX Imaging Company announced today the launch of the PENTAX K-7 digital SLR camera. This latest PENTAX K series camera is designed for advanced photographers seeking high-end design and features without the cost of a professional DSLR system. The PENTAX K-7 features a rugged, yet compact new body design, a new 14.6 megapixel CMOS sensor rebuilt from the ground up, and advanced features such as HD Movie Capture and new, unique-to-PENTAX camera controls. Compatible with every PENTAX lens ever made, the high-end K-7 features an abundance of long-anticipated new and improved features that are exclusive to the camera and combine to make it a tremendous photography tool.

“The K-7 will appeal to many current PENTAX SLR photographers who have been asking for more advanced features, but in a smaller, solid, comfortable-to-hold body,” said Ned Bunnell, president, PENTAX Imaging Company. “We also believe the combination of the K-7’s smaller, high quality construction coupled with the growing line-up of our Limited compact prime lenses will appeal to serious shooters who currently don’t own or previously hadn’t considered adding a PENTAX to their camera bag.”

The most significant features of the PENTAX K-7 that have never been offered before in any K series digital camera, and in some cases any camera, include:

· A compact, magnesium alloy body that is one of the smallest in the advanced photo enthusiast category to reduce bulk and allow users to travel light while maintaining durability and build quality (seven percent smaller than the K20D and up to 25 percent smaller than other cameras in the same class).

· A new 14.6 megapixel CMOS sensor rebuilt from the ground up to minimize noise, adds four channel output for fast image capture, and the ability to capture HD quality movies. It is the ideal combination of resolution and file size, allowing very large (poster size and larger) prints and cropping flexibility.

· A new 77-segment metering system quickly and accurately determines exposure for even the most complex and dynamic lighting situations.

· HD Movie capture features adjustable quality and resolution settings, aperture control, as well as mechanical Shake Reduction, and an external microphone terminal for recording stereo sound.* The K-7 will capture video at the default standard of 1280×720 resolution with a 16:9 aspect ratio (equivalent to 720p), 1536×1024 resolution with a 3:2 aspect ratio, or 640×416 resolution with a 3:2 aspect ratio (equivalent to VGA quality), all shot at 30 frames per second.

· An HDMI port with selectable output resolution (1080i, 720p, 480p, and auto) offers high resolution playback of images and video on modern high definition TV’s.

· A Dedicated AF-assist lamp further improves autofocus response and accuracy in low light conditions.

· An Electronic Level function ensures that images have truly level horizons to minimize post-capture editing.

· An innovative in-camera Lens Correction function that electronically adjusts for Distortion and Lateral Chromatic Aberrations to maximize image quality with DA series lenses.

· A dedicated Mirror Lock-up function eliminates image blur due to mirror movement during long exposures.

· A High Dynamic Range (HDR) image capture mode captures three images then combines them in camera to widen the exposure gamut to bring out detail in all exposure areas of images.

· A composition adjustment feature in Live View allows minor shifts in the framing and composition of images using the Shake Reduction mechanism without having to physically move the camera. This feature is ideal for tripod use.

· A programmable embedded copyright function preserves artistic integrity and image ownership during capture via a keypad that may record ownership in metatag data.

*Due to the compact size of the K-7 camera and the in-body Shake Reduction mechanism, a camera mounted microphone is a highly recommended accessory for optimal audio quality when capturing video.

A variety of K series camera features that are significantly improved in the PENTAX K-7 include:

· A striking 3 inch LCD with 921,000 dot resolution is perfect for detailed image or movie capture and review using the Live View function.

· A weather, dust and cold resistant (to 14° F or -10° C) body makes the K-7 the perfect camera for use in any environment, inside the studio or when travelling in any weather.

· Fast 5.2 frame-per-second shooting with a new PRIME II Image processing engine, which features fast circuitry and 4 channel output that is ideal for sporting events or any fast action situation.

· A top shutter speed of 1/8000 sec freezes even the fastest action in well lit settings.

· Live View mode, now with contrast AF, Face Detection, and optional histogram, grid, and bright/dark area display, allows you to quickly compose your images without having your eye against the viewfinder.

· A 100 percent field-of-view viewfinder (92X magnification) and bright focusing screen are ideal for accurate image composition and accurate focus.

· The PENTAX 11-point autofocus system features improved focus algorithms over previous generation K series DSLR cameras, providing faster, more responsive AF.

· The PENTAX-original Shake Reduction system now compensates for rotational sensor movement improving the sharpness of your images at the moment of capture.

· The K-7’s Dust Reduction system, improved over previous K series cameras, features a piezo-ceramic vibration action to the sensor’s low-pass filter for dust-fee image capture.

· A new high capacity battery features extended battery life, ideal for travel photography or video work.

· Advanced image capture settings, digital filters, and aspect ratio provide outstanding flexibility and creativity while minimizing the need for computer image manipulation.

· Custom Image modes with advanced parameter settings including new Key adjustment allow users to customize the processing mode to suit personal creative style.

Other K series innovations featured on the PENTAX K-7 include:

· Multiple exposure settings, including Green, Program, Sv, Tv, Av, TAv, M, Bulb, X-sync, and USER modes, provide extensive creative control over the exposure for photographers of all experience levels.

· Advanced white balance settings include highly customizable white balance fine tuning, color temperature adjustment, and post image capture manual white balance selection for perfect pictures in even the most difficult lighting.

· Dynamic Range setting with adjustable shadow correction brings out hidden or lost details in both highlights and shadows for even the highest-contrast, dynamic lighting.

· Dedicated PC socket for studio flash offers convenience for the studio photographer without adding hot shoe adapters.

· Advanced capture options include multi-exposure and interval shooting for creative special effects and time-lapse photography.

Along with the body, PENTAX announced a D-BG4 battery grip for exclusive use with the PENTAX K-7. This battery grip may be used in combination with the camera’s rechargeable lithium-ion battery to double camera’s battery life. The D-BG4 also accepts 6 AA batteries in a alternate battery tray for added freedom when shooting in the field. With a vertical shutter-release button, e-dials, AE-lock and a new focus button, the grip features the same weather-resistance, dustproof and coldproof construction as the PENTAX K-7.

PENTAX also announced two weather-resistant lens models developed specifically for PENTAX digital SLRs. The smc DA 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 AL WR and the smc DA 50-200mm F4-5.6 ED WR kit lenses feature weather-resistant seals to handle damp, inclement conditions. Complementing K series camera bodies, both lenses blend versatility with affordability, giving the casual photographer a broader canvas without having to carry a multitude of lenses.

The PENTAX K-7 body only will ship in July 2009 for $1,299.95 USD. The PENTAX D-BG4 battery grip also will ship in July 2009 for $229.95. The newest weather-resistant lenses will be priced at $199.95 for the DA 18-55mm and $249.95 for the DA 50-200mm. These products also will ship in July 2009.

PENTAX Imaging Company is an innovative leader in the production of a variety of digital cameras including weather resistant digital SLRs and compact, waterproof cameras, as well as lenses, flash units, binoculars, scopes, and eyepieces. For almost 90 years, PENTAX has developed durable, reliable products that meet the needs of consumers and businesses. With headquarters in Golden, Colorado, PENTAX Imaging Company is a division of PENTAX of America, Inc. # # #

Are You Editing RAW Files?
As far as RAW photo editing capabilities, both Bridge and Lightroom 2 offer the same controls in the “Develop” module when it comes to the various sliders for controlling exposure, hue, saturation, curves, etc… But the similarities for the most part, end here.

Lightroom 2 is really meant as a standalone application for the “busy” digital photographer. The organizational capabilities of Lightroom through the use of catalog databases and collections makes Lightroom much easier to work with and organize large volumes of photos QUICKLY. If you are the type of photographer who does not spend a whole lot of time post processing or doing digital artwork conversions, then Lightroom is the tool that will get the job done. Lightroom works best for photographers who shot several hundred (or even thousand) photos per shoot, and need to get the editing done quickly. As a standalone application, it is much more affordable than Photoshop CS4 and Bridge (which are bundled together), but of course, the editing and digital filtering capabilities that Photoshop offers are not present in Lightroom. You won’t be able to clone people out of an image with Lightroom or turn photos into painted works of art, but you will be able to do any adjustments to exposure, colour, saturation, contrast, sharpening, blemish removal, vignetting, and more (yes, you can still do these same things in Bridge, but at a much higher cost for the software).

Lightroom 2 also gives you the print, web, and slideshow modules making these tasks quite pain-free for the photographer who does not like to spend a whole lot of time on the post processing end of things. The slideshow module is excellent for giving presentations of your work to a prospective client, or even to show proofs to a client whom you’ve already shot for.

Photoshop Magic?
Photoshop on the other hand, has it’s place too. If you are the type of photographer or digital artist who needs full control and ability to make drastic and lengthy edits to an image, then there are few applications that can rival the editing capabilities of Photoshop. Photoshop does have a much steeper learning curve than Lightroom, and the ability to work on images with layers can be invaluable for certain types of editing and special effects work.

It’s a tough decision to make, but I would say that if you are a busy photographer who needs to quickly retouch and finalize large volumes of images, then Lightroom is a better choice. If you enjoy creating something in your images that was not there when the camera snapped the photo (and that includes things such as “smoother skin”), then Photoshop would be the way to go.

But hey, if you can affford it, then why debate the choice? Get the best of both worlds and you’ll sure to be happy!

http://www.futureshop.ca/marketing/_CONTESTS/photocontest_2009