ISABELA CITY, BASILAN – When I went to Tawi-Tawi almost twenty years ago, I passed hy the peaks of Basilan and Sulu as I was about the ferry from Zamboanga, and I harbored the dream that someday, I could climb those peaks. Today, a year after hiking Bud Tumantangis and Bud Dajo in Sulu, this dream has become fulfilled in full,  with the first official hike up Punu Ulayan, Basilan’s highest peak and the highest point in all of the Sulu archipelago. As it turned out, so many people shared my dream, including the people of Basilan who had long wanted to discover what lies in their island’s summit, as well as government officials who recognized the significance of the project.

It was a confluence of many factors. I’ve long asked my friends and contacts – everyone I met who has any connection to Basilan or BARMM – to help me with information on how to Basilan Peak, but I was always told that security concerns made it virtually impossible; and I was called crazy for even aspiring to climb this peak. The mountain, after all, was a notorious hub of the Abu Sayyaf within Basilan, even as Basilan itself has been tarnished by its association with terrorism and conflict for many decades.

But over time, things can change – and sometimes for the better! Earlier this year, Basilan was officially declared Abu Sayyaf free, and the end of the election season (often a precarious time) signaled the end of political strife and a new beginning. It was also a rare alignment of people who embraced the idea of climbing Basilan Peak,  including Gov. Mujiv Hataman and Gen. Sales of the 101st Infantry Brigade. My request to hike the mountain – facilitated by the Department of Tourism through various channels, particularly through Dr. Paulo Tugbang, a good friend, and Usec. Myra Paz Valderrosa-Abubakar – served only as the catalyst; by the time we arrived in Isabela City, so many people had already pitched in to help, including the good people from the PENRO and MENRE DENREO-B (Lamitan City) who welcomed us at the port, and Isabela City Councilor Ameen Camlian, who was introduced to me by our common friend Ica Fernandez. He also gamely agreed to join the hike, as did Gov. Hataman, Gen. Sales, Tuburan mayor Durie S. Kallahal, former Maluso mayor Hanie Bud, and many other military and civilian officials. On my side, I was accompanied by three hiking buddies: my trusted aide Julius de Vera, from Puerto Princesa, my brod John de Castro, and the nutritionist Charina Javier, who had been instrumental in arranging some of our previous hikes.

And so on September 14, 2025, we all gathered in Sumipit, Basilan, to climb the mountain. The starting elevation was almost 600m, and the first part was a logging road that led to secondary forest through a trail that was quite gradual and increasingly more verdant. By the time we reached 800 meters, the trees were mossier, and pitcher plants began to appear: a remarkable feature that I hope someday will be documented for the possibility of new subspecies or species. At time, the trail was quite steep, but we were aided by the roots and branches in our ascent, and I was delighted to breach past the 971-meter mark (the official elevation),

The advance teams of the military already cleared the path (as did the MENRE folks from another, more northern trail), so even  with our relaxed pace, it just over 2.5 hours to reach the two summits, the first being marked by an ancient tree, and the second by a gravesite of village ancestor. At those points we were nearly (if not above) 1000 meters above the sea level, making it the only point in Sulu archipelago to approach or breach past the 1000-meter mark.

The convivial atmosphere continued throughout our brief bivouac at the summit, with Gov. Mujiv even holding a Facebook Live session, and everyone else celebrating the historic moment. The descent took us much faster – just over an hour – although it took others much longer, given the understandable challenges posed by the slippery trails. As we ended the day at the beautiful beach of Malamawi Island, I could only thank God for a dream come true and for the ascent – symbolic and real- for the people of Basilan, and for our country. Inshallah, peace will continue to reign and more people will discover Basilan’s once-inaccessible mountains.

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PUNU ULAYAN (BASILAN PEAK)
Sumisip and Al-Barka, Basilan
Major jumpoff: Mahatalang, Sumisip, Basilan (6°32’18″N 122°03’03″E)
LLA: 6°32’53″N 122°4’25”E (+400), 1001 MASL* (unverified)
Days required / Hours to summit: 1 day / 3-4 hours
Specs: Minor; Difficulty 4/9, Trail class 1-3
Features: Tropical rainforest, historic and cultural significance, views of Sulu Sea
Article history: Created September 15, 2025
Author: Gideon Lasco

BACKGROUND
Punu Ulayan (or Puno Uleyan and variants thereof), more popularly known as Basilan Peak, rises to around 1000 meters above sea level from the rainforests of Basilan, the northernmost large island of the Sulu Archipelago just off Zamboanga Peninsula. Throughout the region’s deep history, Punu Ulayan has served an important landmark for the Yakan people – and navigation guide for Tausug and Maguindanao traders passing by the waters of Sulu and Celebes Sea. As part of the Basilan Natural Biotic Area, Punu Ulayan is home to various fauna and flora and is known to be a bird sanctuary, with sightings of the Colasisi, Philippine Fairy-bluebird, among other avian nobles; the author personally saw some sunbirds and a Zamboanga bulbul during his hike, as well as Nepenthes sp. in the upper reaches.

During the American colonial period, Punu Ulayan and other Basilan mountains were heavily logged and exploited, taking a toll on the island’s biodiversity and economy, contributing to the sociopolitical conditions that fueled insurgency and terrorism. Although declared a national park for decades, the peak was inaccessible to hikers and locals alike, and was a hub for the notorious Abu Sayyaf group. In 2025, however, Basilan was formally proclaimed Abu Sayyaf-free and the first official hike up Punu Ulayan took place in September 14 of that year, with Gov. Mujiv Hataman and the author in attendance, among various military and civilian stakeholders, formally opening the peak to eco-tourism.

The hike itself is very similar in terms of profile and environment to the other peaks in Sulu Archipelago, including Bud Tumantangis. Starting at around 600 MASL from what is currently a rough road in Mahatalang, Sumisip, that hike meanders through a logging path until it transitions a steeper, forest trail. Past 800 MASL, the forest becomes more dense and verdant, with various mosses and ferns. The first summit is marked a giant tree (Ficus?) and the second, marginally-higher summit is marked by a grave, said to be that of a ancestor of some of the locals. As a sacred space, the highest peak of Basilan calls for reflection and quiet celebration: of the numerous sacrifices involved, of the many years it entailed, to make peace – and being there – possible.

ITINERARY

(From Isabela)

0500 Leave Isabela for the trailhead in Mahatalang, Sumisip
0700 Courtesy call in military camp; other formalities if necessary
0730 Start trekking
0800 Rest along the way
1000 ETA first summit
1030 Visit second summit
1100 Start descent
1300 Back at trailhead.
1500 ETA Isabela; possible sidetrip to Mahamawi Island

PRACTICALITIES: BUD TUMANTANGIS

PUNU ULAYAN (BASILAN PEAK) PICTURES

TRIVIA

Like most Philippine mountains, there are no real technical barriers to reach Basilan Peak and some locals have reported being able to visit the summit in the past. However, Basilan Peak has never been documented as a hiking destination and the first official hike was conducted in September 14, 2025, with details captured in the following announcement the author made:

Pleased to announce the historic first official hike up Punu Ulayan, also known as Basilan Peak, the highest point in Basilan and all of Sulu Archipelago at ~1007 meters above sea level (higher than the map elevation of 971m)! Once an Abu Sayyaf stronghold and passageway, Puno Ulayan is a beautiful mountain especially in its upper reaches, with pitcher plants, mossy trees, and views of Sulu Sea peeking out of the canopy.

Honored to have initiated this hike and most grateful to Gov. Mujiv Hataman for organizing and joining the hike and hosting us in Basilan. I also thank Brig. Gen. Frederick Sales of the 101st Infantry Brigade for leading the military contingent made up of 32nd and 45th IB and Special Forces; people from MENRE, PENRO, CENRO; to all the military, police, local officials, and civilian participants – including former Abu Sayyaf members – who provided support, company, and cheer throughout. And personal thanks to Isabela City Councilor Ameen Camlian for his generosity, Ica Fernandez for the guidance, and for Julius Devera, John De Castro, and Charina Javier for accompanying me to Basilan. Finally, I thank my good friend Paulo Tugbang and Usec. Myra Abubakar, both of DOT, for facilitating my visit!
May peace, development, trust, and a spirit of camaraderie and friendship all thrive and continue allow people to experience our great outdoors! I will leave Basilan with much gratitude for the hospitality and beauty that we experienced, and with hope that I can go back not just to climb more mountains but to deepen my connection with this incredible island.

The author’s hike up Punu Ulayan on September 14, 2025 will be chronicled in Hiking matters.

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Continued from Hiking matters #740

The next day, we started the hike at 0626H. In contrast to volcanic Mt. Aso, Mt. Sobo was a forested mountain, and the late spring greenery was a refreshing sight. From the tsuga (Japanese Hemlock) in the old growth forest,  we entered sections of lovely Japanese beech (Fagus crenata). By 0920H, we could glimpse at the verdant peak, and by 1007H we were at the summit, 1756 MASL.

By 1311, we were done with the hike and fortunately the guesthouse staff gave us a ride back to Ogata Station, since there was no bus and we couldn’t get a taxi either. Overall, a really great experience to restart my Hyakumeizan quest!

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From Kumamoto, we took the train to JR Aso Station, stayed in a nearby guesthouse, and took the bus the next day to the Furubochu Trail Head to climb Mt. Aso. Starting the hike at 0755H, we were immediately greeted by the sight of azaleas in bloom! The rest of the hike was through volcanic gravel, and  steam rising from the surrounding craters was a sight to behold. By 0938H we were at the 1506-meter Nakadake peak and by 0959 we were at the summit, known as Mt. Takadake, rising to 1592 MASL.

From the summit, it was a quick descent back to the trailhead, but we were not done yet, as we had to undertake another long ride to get to our next destination, Mt. Sobo.

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SAN JOSE, DINAGAT ISLANDS – For decades, the Leave No Trace (LNT) principles have served as guiding tenets for mountaineers. These seven principles, namely (1) Plan ahead and prepare; (2) Travel and camp on durable surfaces; (3) Dispose waste properly; (4) Leave what you will find; (5) Minimize use and impact of fire; (6) Respect wildlife; (7) Be considerate of other visitors, are required reading and memorization – as part of Basic Mountaineering Courses (BMCs), as well as the application process for hiking clubs.

Even those who are not well-versed in the actual LNT principles may be familiar with its central ethos of leaving the mountain as undisturbed as possible, as the famous expression puts it: “Don’t change the mountain, let the mountain change you.” Or, in the language of what has become the LNT mantra:

Take nothing but pictures
Leave nothing but footprints
Kill nothing but time

These principles has undoubtedly been beneficial in keeping many of our trails and campsites free from littering. Moreover, the LNT principles have served as an ethical vocabulary with which to hold visitors accountable for littering on the trails or vandalizing rock formations.

LNT, however, is limited in scope; it says nothing about the larger, and far more significant threats affecting our mountains today. Even if every single hiker were to adhere to LNT, it won’t save the mountains from destruction.

I was reminded of this on a recent hike, when I commented on the pristine state of the trails and the guide said that it’s because they had just undergone a ‘BMC’ and they were called upon to enforce LNT principles. “But actually,” he told me, “The mountain will be destroyed anyway because of the mining operations.” Indeed, as we were having that conversation, we were in full view of mining operations all over, carving the mountains slowly but surely; we could also hear the sound of chainsaws. Without understating the damage of trash-filled campsites or downplaying the environmental damage of plastic waste along the trails, it was very clear to me that the devastation posed by mining, quarrying, and other environmentally-destructive activities is far greater and longer-lasting.

Some mountaineers have been at the forefront of addressing these broader environmental issues, but as a whole, the hiking community has confined its ethos to how to behave responsibly on the trails, and this is true not just in the Philippines but in many parts of the world. As Simon and Alagona (2013) put it, “LNT does not challenge program adherents to go beyond protecting designated recreation areas. Nor does the program implore followers to promote the kind of interconnected sense of environmental citizenship that would link practices of individual consumption with structures of global production.”

This stance is not tenable given the many threats our mountains face today. We can insist, we might even feel good, that we are taking nothing but pictures, but people are taking everything but pictures, from rocks and minerals to flora and fauna. We can say we’re leaving nothing but footprints, but mining companies are leaving nothing left to nature, as the gaping holes in Mt. Redondo showed. And we may kill nothing but time, but those same destructive projects are killing everything in the name of greed, including entire forests and species, not to mention whole ecosystems and ways of life.

Of course, we will not agree on every issue. Some might insist in the possibility of responsible mining even in fragile ecosystems like Dinagat, Palawan, and Sibuyan Island. My view is that the Philippines – with our biodiversity and numerous communities co-existing with the forests – should err on the side of safety, and in any case, make sure that any project should not only be sustainable but actually beneficial to local communities.

Regardless of our specific views on particular issues, we hikers can surely find common ground in the need to protect our mountains themselves, not just the trails. We are in a unique position to bear witness to ecological changes and environmental devastation; we have the privilege of listening to and learning from local communities; and we have the unique position from which to speak out on these matters and ally ourselves with those who do.

If we are to truly minimize our impact and ‘leave no trace’ in the environment, we need to go beyond the LNT principles and help in the fight against larger threats to our mountains.

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MT. PALHI (BABAENG BUKID)
Libjo, Dinagat Islands
Major jumpoff: Sitio Maytubig, Brgy. Bayanihan, Libjo
LLA: 10.20263410 N, 125.63748827, 730 MASL (+730)
Days required / Hours to summit: 1 day / 3-5 hours
Specs: Minor; Difficulty 5/9, Trail class 1-4
Features: Ultramafic and bonsai forests, unique biodiversity, scenic views
Article history: Created August 21, 2024
Author: Gideon Lasco

BACKGROUND
Located in the town of Libjo in Dinagat Island, Mt. Palhi – also known to locals as Babaeng Bukid – offers a spellbinding array of flora and fauna as well as scenic views of Dinagat; although its elevation is ‘only’ 730 MASL, the hike starts from sea level and it has the feel of a major mountain with dense forests, steep ascents, and a majestic summit. Unlike Mt. Redondo which has been devastated by mining, Mt. Palhi has managed to be one of the relatively-intact mountains in the island province, although there is always the threat of future exploitation. Moreover, Palhi involves an actual sea-to-summit hike: one that can be completed in half a day with an athletic pace, or as an overnight hike for a more relaxed immersion in such an unusual island forest.

The hike starts from the village of Maytubig, in the mouth of the river that empties into the sea. An immediate ascent through ultramafic rocks takes the hiker to a dense forest with relatively-stunted trees; there are pitcher plants and other unusual flora and fauna throughout the trail. Past the rattan and other thorny hurdles, the final ascent features the same bonsai forests as Redondo, and offers stunning views of the surrounding mountains and islands – including Homonhon, Siargao, and the Southern tip of Leyte; if not for the mining areas, the summit would have offered a vantage point with view to view the Dinagat Islands as pristine fjords, as the earliest, precolonial, navigators from Butuan and elsewhere would have surely seen it. Nonetheless, even today, there is a loftiness in Mt. Palhi that makes it one of the best hikes not just in Caraga, but all of the Philippines.

ITINERARY

(Note: Instead of starting from San Jose or other areas and having to wake up very early, hikers can add a ‘Day 0’ and opt to stay in Sitio Maytubig for an early start)

Day 1
0300 Travel from San Jose to Brgy. Llamera
0400 ETA Brgy. Llamera; take pumpboat to Sitio Maytubig
0450 ETA Sitio Maytubig; register and secure guides
0500 Start trek from Sitio Maytubig
0530 Reach first viewpoint
0645 Arrival at Campo Uno; rest stop
0700 Resume trek
0900 ETA summit
0930 Commence descent
1230 Back in Sitio Maytubig; Lunch
1330 Head back to
16t00 Back in San Jose, Dinagat Islands (in time for last trip to Surigao City)

PRACTICALITIES: MT. PALHI (BABAENG BUKID)

MT. PALHI PICTURES

TRIVIA
An account of the author’s hike up Mt. Palhi is narrated in Hiking matters #803.

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BUD TUMANTANGIS
Indanan, Sulu
Major jumpoff: Brgy.  Tumantangis, Indanan, Sulu
LLA: 5°59’50” N, 120°57’45” E, 811 MASL (+556)
Days required / Hours to summit: 1 day / 3-4 hours
Specs: Minor; Difficulty 4/9, Trail class 1-3
Features: Tropical rainforest, historic and cultural significance, views of Sulu Sea
Article history: Created August 21, 2024
Author: Gideon Lasco

BACKGROUND
A landmark in the country’s southern seas and a sacred mountain among the Tausug people, Bud Tumantangis rises to 811 MASL and is the highest peak in Sulu. Its name – sometimes translated as ‘weeping mountain’ or ‘mountain of tears’ – speaks of the Tausug people’s affections towards their home island, especially in the context of their maritime journeys. As Alkinor R. Sajan explains:

Since it is magnificently viewed from a far distance in the sea, which captivates the sentiments, memories, sorrows, pains, and love of the Tausug travelers before, Bud Tumantangis means, “A Mountain Site to Cry For.” Tausug travelers before doesn’t cry because the peak of the mountain had fades away but because losing it, means, they had gone far from their beloved homeland and might not be able to return.

For the longest time, the very idea of climbing Bud Tumantangis was considered unthinkable given the peace and order situation in Sulu, but since 2023, a much-improved security environment has allowed locals and visitors alike to visit and pay tribute to this veritable peak, thanks to the efforts of civilian and military officials as well as the growing outdoor community in Sulu. Thus, there is now an opportune moment to visit Sulu and experience its outdoor destinations.

The hike can be considered easy to moderate; although there are some sloped sections that may pose a challenge to beginners, there are no technical or particularly-challenging parts. After passing through a populated woodland, the hike is mostly forested, and featuring some impressively-tall trees – and culminating in mossier upper reaches. It is possible to see, or at least hear, monkeys on the trail. The summit, meanwhile, is a small plateau that offers views of the surrounding islands and mountains, including including Bud Dajo (E) and its distinctive crater rim as well as the very prominent Bud Sinumaan (S); the small islands north of Sulu are also visible from the peak.

ITINERARY
(From Jolo)

0500 Leave  Jolo for Indanan
0600 Courtesy call in military camp; other formalities if necessary
0630 Start trekking
0800 Rest along the way
0920 ETA Helipad
0930 ETA summit; enjoy views of Sulu Sea
1030 Start descent
1300 Back in trailhead in Indanan. Tidy up.
1400 ETA Jolo in time for late lunch

PRACTICALITIES: BUD TUMANTANGIS

BUD TUMANTANGIS PICTURES

TRIVIA
“The view of Bud Tumantangis ( Crying Mountain ) always awakens a nostalgic feeling in every native as he departs and joy when he arrives” – Norma Abubakar Abdulla (1989)

“Although only 853 meters high, [Tumantangis] is almost always capped by a blanket of white clouds from which the ” crying ” mountain got its name.” – Juanito A. Bruno, The Social World of the Tausug (1973)

Some accounts place Bud Tumantangis’ elevation at 885 MASL; however, this is not corroborated by the latest topographic and satellite data, as well as individual recordings from the summit itself. For now, Pinoy Mountaineer favors the 811 MASL that’s used by the local officials.

The author’s hike up Bud Tumantangis in October 12, 2024 is chronicled in Hiking matters #801.

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We started the hike at 1045H. After entering a woodland with some houses, the rest of the trail was delightfully forested all the way to the summit; decades of conflict had spared the mountain from unsustainable development. As we were a large group, our pace was very relaxed but even then we reached the summit by 1305H, with a “helipad site” (see last photo in this post) doubling as a campsite and signaling that we were just minutes away from the 811-meter peak.

At the summit, there is a military outpost as well as views of the nearby mountains, including Bud Dajo (E) and its distinctive crater rim as well as the very prominent Bud Sinumaan (S); it was particularly exciting for us to see it given that we were also planning to hike it the following day. A large tarpaulin used to mark the summit, but it has been torn when we got there;  it did not matter as we were just so glad to have finally made it to the top of this veritable mountain!

Thank you to everyone who hiked with us! We are particularly grateful to Najib for making this adventure happen, and to everyone we met in Sulu who welcomed us to their province and convinced me that there’s a bright, peaceful future ahead for the province – not just in terms of ecotourism but overall development.

Postscript: on our way back to Zamboanga, this time by slow ferry, we

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JOLO, SULU – The day after our successful hike up Bud Tumantangis (see Hiking matters #801), we went on another  hike, this time up Bud Dajo (also spelled Daho), a mountain that is sacred to the Tausug and very historic, being the site of many battles including the First Battle of Bud Dajo in 1906. This infamous battle is described by many historians as a massacre given the scale of barbarity perpetuated by invading American colonial forces, who killed an estimated 800-900 locals, including women and children, even taking pictures of the brutality as ‘war trophies’ . On the other hand, some writers say it should be called a ‘battle’ to underscore the fact that the Tausug forces fought valiantly against all odds. Beyond its historic significance, it is also a natural, forested, sanctuary, making for a pleasant hiking destination – while being ever mindful of what the mountain stands for.

Organizing our hike, once more, was the ever-reliable Najib, who sought the blessing and invaluable support of the 1101st Infantry Brigade, which accompanied us in the hike. After a courtesy call in their HQ, we proceeded to one of many trails of the mountain, Lower Laus, municipality of Talipao. As we prepared to embark on the hike at around 0915H, I reflected on the fact that the the mere possibility of being able to climb Bud Dajo is astounding to locals and visitors alike; even the captain we met in the HQ told us that “just a few years ago, the trail you’re about to climb was a battlefield”.

The hike was mostly steep but delightfully forested all the way, with impressive forest trees gracing the environs. We reached the crater rim at 1044 – just over 1.5 hours, which offered

We then descended to the crater itself, which is the site of the historic battle, and is now marked with commemorative signs. Then we went up to the highest point, which is marked by a wooden bench! There is a military outpost at the top, although, in a sign of the times, it is not being actively used.

The descent was straightforward and by 1300H we were back in the trailhead. Thank you to the 1101st IB, Najib, and everyone who joined this trek. Overall, it is very inspiring to see enthusiasm for the outdoors taking root in Sulu, and its mountains are turning from war zones to hiking destinations. Inshallah, may peace prevail in Sulu and the rest of the Philippines!

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SAN JOSE, DINAGAT ISLAND – From Mt. Palhi (see Hiking matters #803), we took the pump boat back to Brgy. Llanera and rushed to the town hall of Loreto, where the 4×4 pick up truck – a Ford Conquest – was waiting to take us to Mt. Redondo. Given the choice, of course I would have hiked all the way, but it was the only option being offered at the time, and rather than missing out on visiting Dinagat’s highest (and hitherto-inaccessible) peak, we decided to take it.  
The drive – which took less than an hour – is very much reminiscent of the trail up Tapulao, which makes sense because both used to be mining roads.

The drive gave us a tour of the full extent of the devastation wrought by mining; a big chunk of the mountain was utterly destroyed: a stark contrast from the bonsai forests that still cling to the very edges of the effaced earth. Even at the endpoint of the 4×4 ride, around 800 meters above sea level, we were still just barely above the massively-damaged slopes.

Thankfully, however, there was an extant trail to the summit, albeit not advertised or clearly marked, allowing for a short hike, on top of the 4×4 ride. Of course, having traveled thus far, I wasn’t going to miss the chance of reaching Dinagat’s highest point, so off we went! Despite the brevity of the trail (just over 1 km and a Difficulty 2/9 hike), it was enough to showcase some of the astounding flora and fauna of the mountain, including various pitcher plants, a terrestrial hermit crab, and various birds (there were brahminy kites hovering above us):

The summit itself – around 940 meters above sea level – is breathtaking, offering views of Homonhon Island (N), the mountains of Southern Leyte including Cabalian Volcano (WNW), and so many more landmarks! As in Mt. Palhi, it also allowed us to see – once more, the scale of the devastation, even as life itself – i.e. the flora and fauna – cling on and with the mining activities supposedly stopped (thanks to Gina Lopez and those who opposed the mining activities), there may yet be hope that the mountain can heal.

Thank you to Mr. Dario Apole of Loreto’s Tourism Office for helping us, as well as the very helpful staff of Island View in San Jose, for helping us visit Mt. Redondo! I hope hiking trails all the way from the coast will be established given Mt. Redondo’s huge ecotourism potential, and that ultimately, mining will no longer be an option for Loreto and all of the Dinagat Islands: a precious yet precarious paradise.

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