Pinoy Mountaineer

Hiking matters #95: Mt. Maculot's Rockies with the Orang Gunung Kuala Lumpur (OGKL)

glasco@gmail.com (gideon) — Thu, 29 Jul 2010 23:44:00 +0000

Taal Volcano was unfortunately unavailable with the Alert Level 2 status still up. We settled for best alternative: a mountain that's closest to Taal, affording good views of the volcano islands and the lake. I refer of course to Mt. Maculot, whose Rockies is a longtime favorite destination of mountaineers who want a relaxing, rewarding dayhike.

Our guests were no less than the Orang Gunung Kuala Lumpur (OGKL) mountaineering club who contacted us to help them arrange their expedition to the Philippines, entitled Explorasi Gunung-Gunung Filipina. We fetched them very early from Malate where they stayed after finishing two mountains - Mt. Arayat and Mt. Pinatubo. I was joined by two of my very young schoolmates in the INTARMED program at the UP College of Medicine: Orjy Dumaoang and Terrence Kua; and Jacob Sarreal (SBMS), a companion in several expeditions, and the youngest mountaineer to climb Mt. Halcon at age 8 (1997).

In the orientation, I finally met Deeno Lot with whom I've been coordinating for the past month, and the men and women of the 25-member OGKL team who visited the Philippines. We chartered a 30-seater bus to take us directly to Cuenca, Batangas. It was an achievement that our bus driver (Kuya Boy) was able to manuever the bus to the jumpoff at Brgy. Bagong Silang!

Before we started climbing, Koi Grey and Melo Sanchez, climbing buddies who just performed a continuous 22-hour G2 traverse weeks ago, caught up with us. We started trekking at around 0820H, climbing on a very relaxed pace since there was no real hurry.

The typhoon did little to affect the trail, which was largely intact. Soon we were enjoying the cool breezes and beautiful views of Taal Lake at the Rockies! Ive been to Mt. Maculot countless times but it's always nice to be at the Rockies.

After the quick descent, we sent off Apip Embi, OGKL Chairman, who had to return to Kuala Lumpur. Jacob, Koi, and I joined the rest of the team in a brief retreat in a private resort in Pansol, Calamba, where we rested before the finale of the Explorasi - Maktrav.

Some pictures courtesy of Koi Grey (2,3).

Hiking matters #94: MakTrav Friendship Climb with Orang Gunung Kuala Lumpur (OGKL)

glasco@gmail.com (gideon) — Wed, 28 Jul 2010 23:39:00 +0000

PinoyMountaineer.com is a very pleased to have hosted one of the most respected mountaineering clubs in Malaysia and Southeast Asia, the Orang Gunung Kuala Lumpur (OGKL). In July 25, I invited my mountaineering friends to join me in a MakTrav climb (see official article) with the 24-man team from Malaysia. So early morning on that day, we met up at Jolibee Sto. Tomas. We had come from a resort in Pansol, Calamba where we accommodated the group after a climb up Mt. Maculot's Rockies (will blog about this later).

The weather forecasts were glum but still we pushed through. Trekking commenced at 0715H. Koi Grey and Melo Sanchez, fresh from their 22-hour continuous G2 traverse, joined us and secured the status of the ropes in Melkas. They were accompanied by some members of OGKL including the veteran Uncle Appa. They were followed by a main group, led by MakTrav veterans Sir Martin Cortes, Mayan Gutierrez, myself, and Jacob Sarreal.

After the initial trail-hunting to find the Via Crucis (Way of the Cross), we had our first major stop at the Bahay Kubo (nipa hut) which was already dismantled. The water source too, was no longer available so had to resort to the water in the brook a little bit upstream. Henceforth it was a long march from Palanggana to the Melkas campsite and finally to the breathtaking, challenging Melkas Ridge.

We had quick lunch at Peak 3 (Mt. Cornites; 900 MASL), commencing the trek at 1315H. From this point a heavy downpour set in; the same day Metro Manila was flooded but it was not able to perturb our MakTrav ascent. Finally, we reached the summit, 1090 MASL, at 1445H - not bad considering that we were a large group of 40. It was truly a moment of celebration and friendship when we were at the summit. We congratulated the Malaysian team for the culmination of four mountains in their Explorasi Gunung Gunung Filipina (Exploration of Philippine Mountains) which took them to Mt. Arayat's South Peak, Pinatubo's Crater Lake, Mt. Maculot's Rockies, and finally, Makiling, and not just any ordinary Makiling, but MakTrav.

The descent to UPLB was brisk. We hired a jeepney from the Nursery area to collect all those who remained in the trail; by 1815H everybody was at the Mt. Makiling entrance. A total of 11 hours, 19 kilometers, 40 climbers from 3 nations (special mention to Jo Stevens from New Zealand), and of course, lots of memorable moments to take home. I hope this is just the beginning of many friendship climbs between the Philippines and Malaysia. More power to the Orang Gunung Kuala Lumpur (OGKL) outdoor club! You're always welcome here in the Philippines.

PinoyMountaineer.com thanks everyone who joined in the Friendship Climb! Special mention to Jacob Sarreal (SBMS), Makoi Grey, and Melo Sanchez (Lumad) who accompanied us from the previous climb up Mt. Maculot, as well as MakTrav veterans (and very good friends) Mayan Gutierrez (PALMC) and Sir Martin Cortes for joining us. Some pictures courtesy of Mayan Gutierrez (2,4,5,6,7) and Koi Grey (1)

Eulogy: Roger Guzman, Mt. Pulag Driver, Friend of Mountaineers

glasco@gmail.com (gideon) — Tue, 27 Jul 2010 05:58:00 +0000

Roger Guzman

1975-2010

I've always wanted to feature Mang Roger in this website, considering his important role as the transportation contact for Mt. Pulag. He was the driver of choice in all our Cordillera mountain trips. Personally I've made arrangements for more than a dozen jeepneys from this guy and not once did they fail us.

When I joined the PALMC Bakun Trio climb last year, I got a chance to talk to him more. He personally drove our group all the way to Bakun, and, as part of the package, he had to stay the whole 4 days that we were there. I asked him, "Don't you get bored, waiting for us?" He told me that he was also enjoying it; "Masarap gumala," was his reply, adding that he really loved to drive, ever since he was a teenager. Perhaps for him it was an adventure in itself, traversing all those long and winding roads-less-traveled, seeing the mountaineers clad in their costumes, excited, free-spirited, joyful.

How did it all begin? He recalls a group of mountaineers approaching him in the jeepney terminal in Baguio City, as he was waiting for his turn. It was the summer of 2001. They asked him if his jeepney can make it to Mt. Pulag; they have tried others but they were disappointed. The intrepid Roger gamely agreed to take them to Mt. Pulag Ranger Station; the mountaineers were pleased, and for the next decade he became a familiar face to all of us.

That is why he was considered a friend of mountaineers: he did not just take us to the jumpoff; he was part of our expeditions. It was important for him to take us to the jumpoff, in the same way that it was important for us to reach the summit. His cell number is in every mountaineering club's phonebook. And even when the oil prices rose, he held fast with his mountaineer-friendly rates that made Pulag accessible on a weekend.

Unfortunately his good relationship with mountaineers was viewed by some with envy, and the last time we met, in April 2010, he expressed concern about some people who wish him ill. I remember during the 1st PinoyMountaineer Charity Climb in 2009, before we parted at the Victory Terminal in Baguio, he said, "Sir, salamat sa kabuhayan."

Kabuhayan! This man was earning his keep humbly and with integrity. Though an Ibaloi, he offered free transportation to the Kalanguyas in Babadak and he gladly brought the sick people to the hospitals in Baguio when needed. If he had raised the jeepney prices for Mt. Pulag, we wouldn't really complain because we trust him and he virtually had a monopoly and yet he stuck with his friendly rates, just enough for his family.

For such a good man to be killed in his own town in La Trinidad, mercilessly, is such a atrocious offense and the mountaineering community strongly condemns it. He was at the prime of his life and if not for this evil deed, he might have been still around to take our children to the beautiful mountains.

Sorrow reigns today but very soon, justice is something we must clamor for. The killer, and those behind his death, must be punished. And we must make sure that if they do exist, those who sought to profit from Mang Roger's demise will not have the morbid satisfaction of getting what they want. We look forward to Roger's nephew, family, and associates continuing his jeepney service. They are the worthy inheritors of the reputation and relationship that Roger has built with us.

Manong Roger, you will be well remembered. A good man, a reliable driver, a great friend of mountaineers.

This eulogy was read by Raniel Guzman, nephew of Mang Roger, during the funeral service in La Trinidad, Benguet, July 29, 2010. Photo taken in September 2009 in Bakun, Benguet.

Mountain News: Roger Guzman of Mt. Pulag, shot dead last night

glasco@gmail.com (gideon) — Mon, 26 Jul 2010 06:09:00 +0000

MANILA - According to multiple sources, Roger Guzman, known to everyone in the mountaineering community as Mang Roger, was shot dead in La Trinidad as he was on his way from the Ranger Station. We do not have confirmation of other details yet at the moment. His funeral will be held on Thursday, July 29, 2010.

In an unpublished interview with PinoyMountaineer.com last year in Bakun, Benguet, Mang Roger related to us how he started becoming a driver for Mt. Pulag in the 1990s, when he became the choice driver of mountaineers going to Mt. Pulag, because of his reliable service and powerful jeepneys. "Nakatambay lang ako sa jeepney terminal ako sa Baguio...Nilapitan ako ng mga mountaineers kung kaya ba daw ng jeep ko na umakyat sa Pulag..." Since then, he was counted upon by hikers visiting not only Mt. Pulag but also other mountains in the region.

In April 2010, Mang Roger shared to us that some sectors are 'jealous' of what they perceive to be a lucrative business of ferrying hikers back and forth Mt. Pulag. We do not know if this is related to his untimely and shocking death. Regardless of who the perpetrator of this crime is, the mountaineering community should join the demand for justice for Mang Roger.

Hiking matters #93: Mt. Pinatubo's Crater Lake

glasco@gmail.com (gideon) — Sun, 18 Jul 2010 13:36:00 +0000

Last Saturday, I guided a group comprised of Malate Catholic School Batch 1984 alumni and their friends on a daytrek to Mt. Pinatubo's crater lake. The event was a charity climb for the batch's scholarship fund. My good friend Mayan of PALMC was with me and there were also other PALMC in the group - Carol, Rico, Danny, and Jojoy with whom I coordinated the trek. It was a real pleasure to meet everyone in the group! One very notable participant was Zipper, the Labrador retriever of two of the participants (Benny and Grace)! We have a Labrador puppy named Newton at home; it's just three months old but I wish I could take it to a trek someday too! Going back to the Pinatubo trek, it was a very nice and refreshing trip. I wish I have the time to blog more about it, but that will have to wait for the future. Thanks Roland and TrekPinatubo for getting me as guide! For more information you may contact him at trekpinatubo@gmail.com.

Picture courtesy of Mayan Gutierrez

New additions to the list of mountaineering and outdoor clubs in the Philippines

glasco@gmail.com (gideon) — Wed, 14 Jul 2010 17:58:00 +0000

I am pleased to announce that the following mountaineering /outdoor groups have been added to the PinoyMountaineer list of mountaineering and outdoor clubs in the Philippines:

SCHOOL-BASED CLUBS
Ambassador Mountaineering Club
Lyceum Engineering Mountaineers Society (LEMS)
Sang-at-uli Mountaineering Society (Philippine Normal University)
SAGIP Mountaineering club (Batangas State University Malvar)

METRO MANILA / NCR
Akyaters Adventure Club
BBC OUTDOOR (Q.C)
D.A.M.N. Boys (Dugong Akyatero't Mamumundok na Ngarag)
Dahon Mountaineering Club
HAMOG-Haksonero Mountaineering Group-NCR
KATUGA Mountaineers & Outreach Club Inc.
Matahari Mountaineers
Maya Mountaineering CLub
SULIT Mountaineers
TabakCMG (Comembo Mountaineers Group)
TEAM CONQUER
Top of the Mountain Society
Tribu Guinobateño Mountaineering Club(TGMC)
Ventus Eco Adventure Team (VEAT,ePLDT)

LUZON, VISAYAS, MINDANAO
MASUKAL Mountaineering Club (Tabaco Albay)
SIERRA TAPULAO ADVENTURE GROUP (STAG, Masinloc,Zambales)

If you submit your goup, please give complete information and please give me time to add it! Don't get any ideas (i.e. maybe I don't like your group) because PinoyMountaineer.com is strictly neutral about groups and affilations! It takes about two hours of my life to update the Mountaineering Clubs list so I cannot do it all the time. Same is true for all requests including additions in the Outdoor Shops lis.

Again, PinoyMountaineer.com is supportive of all mountaineering clubs and initiatives throughout the country, regardless of affiliation. Heads and officers of mountaineering clubs are invited to correspond with the blogger by emailing gideon@pinoymountaineer.com. Feel free to let us know about your events, and share with us your updates, discoveries, and destinations that are not yet in the website. More power to these mountaineering clubs. Happy climbing to all!

Mt. Sicapoo/Traverse via Timarid-Simagaysay (2,354 +)

glasco@gmail.com (gideon) — Wed, 14 Jul 2010 15:41:00 +0000

MT. SICAPOO
Solsona, Ilocos Norte
Entry point: Gasgas River, Brgy. Manalpac, Solsona
Exit point: Solsona Dam, Brgy. Manalpac, Solsona
LLA: 2354 MASL
Days required / Hours to summit: 4 days / 16-18 hours
Specs: Major climb, Exploratory, Difficulty 9/9, Trail class 2-5
Features: Pine forest, Traverse trail, River crossing

PinoyMountaineer presents the culmination of "Invitation to Ilocos", Mt. Sicapoo, the roof of Ilocos. The exploration and documentation of this mountain is made possible by Agnes Fidelis Gloria-Pinzon and the One Degree Mountaineering Group

BACKGROUND
One of the latest accomplishments in Philippine mountaineering is the first ascent of Mt. Sicapoo, in December 2009. This expedition was the culmination of a series of explorations in Ilocos Norte spearheaded by the ONE Degree Mountaineering Group (ODMG). These explorations were chronicled in PinoyMountaineer.com as "Invitation to Ilocos", written by Agnes Gloria-Pinzon.

That Sicapoo would be the culmination of these explorations is natural and logical, the peak being the highest in the whole Ilocos Region, and in fact the northermost high mountain (>2000 meter) peak in the country. The first expedition, done in June 12-14, 2009, was to ascertain the summitability of the mountain and scout for possible trails. The blogger was able to join this expedition which led to the first mountaineering ascents of Mts. Timarid and Simagaysay, and the first traverse of these two mountains. Eventually these mountains were, and the trails would serve as the same trails for the future Mt. Sicapoo . The third expedition in December 27-30, 2009 led to the first ascent of Sicapoo. The trail-less assault to Sicapoo's summit was described as "treacherous, steep climb".

At the time of writing, three other groups have climbed Mt. Sicapoo in 2010. Mt. Sicapoo will be considered an exploratory climb, and it is arguably one of the most difficult mountains in climb in Luzon island. Climbers have compared its difficulty to Mt. Halcon; treacherous parts such as the summit ascent; the steep ridges; and the river crossings where sudden flashfloods have imperiled lives, earn for this mountain a difficulty level of 9/9. (Note: The Difficulty scale is a relative scale; the most difficult climbs in the Philippines are necessarily at the 9th level. If more difficult trails emerge, they will become Difficulty 9, and those formerly in the Difficulty 9 can slide to Difficulty 8. In the case of Guiting-Guiing Traverse, it will occupy Difficulty 9/9 while the regular G2 climb will slide to Difficulty 8/9).

The first day of the presently recommended Sicapoo itinerary tackles the Gasgas river crossings immediately; in a way it is reminscent of the river crossings of Marbel river on an Apo climb via Kidapawan. In the first expeditions, the climb ends with these river crossings. Considering the treacherous nature of the Gasgas River, with over 20 separate crossings, some of which involves strong, chest-deep water, it is really for the best that this is done immediately; before lunch if possible, when the afternoon rains have not yet set in. The blogger has experienced for himself the dangers that a flashflood in this part of the trail can bring. These dangers notwithstanding, there's some breathtaking scenery involved here, included rock formations along the rivers.

After the Gasgas river crossings, one who take a relatively straightforward trail through tropical forests up to the Saulay campsite. At this point, one would already realize why these mountains are called the "Nothern Cordilleras" - the pine trees and the cool breezes would bring to mind Benguet; indeed the latter parts of the trail have been compared to the traverse of Mt. Ugo. Day 1 ends at the Saulay campsite.

The following day is a long march to Pakpako Campsite, which is already part of the Sicapoo mountain. In the first exploration climb we thought that Pakpako would take no more than half a day but in the succeeding climbs it was found out that several more peaks - and an entire day - would be required before reaching the campsite.

Finally on Day 3, an assault to the very summit of Mt. Sicapoo is possible. The rock formations - including the Penguin - perched on the very roof of Ilocos - greeted the first climbers. Although usually cloud covered, a clearing at the summit would reveal views of nearby mountains such as Agamomota, Kilang, Burnay, Siminublan (some of these have also been explored by One Degree Mountainering Group) as well as the nameless mountains of Apayao, which could someday open the exciting possibility of a Ilocos-Apayao traverse via Sicapoo.

The way down will not bore the climber, as several new sights will be seen, including the twin mountains, Timarid and Simagaysay; the intervening Ugo-like trails between them; in a pine environment that is really very refreshing. Beyond Simagaysay lies the grasslands, some trail-less parts, and finally, One Degree Plateau - so named because of its vast, flat slope, which is so close to the end that one can already celebrate the victory. We described it previously: "'[One Degree] Plateau', a vast expanse of elevated pastureland around 300 MASL, scenic for its views of Ilocos Norte and historic for the World War II battles that allegedly took place in its strategic location. A more palpable treat in the Plateau are the duhat trees that provide a delicious trail food as a buena mano in the expedition." Since the itinerary has been reversed, the duhat would no longer be a buena mano, but a comido de celebracion.

Certainly this mountain is more than enough reason to go to Ilocos! A description of a substantial portion of the trails is part of the Mt. Timarid/Simagaysay entry in PinoyMountaineer. Since a going all the way from Manila to do Timarid/Simagaysay climb would no longer be practical without involving Sicapoo, the former itinerary is somewhat obsolete; it will no longer be modified, but will remain as is to serve as a souvenir of pre-Sicapoo exploration efforts.

ITINERARY

Day 0
1800 From Manila take bus to Laoag (P600)

Day 1
0600 ETA Laoag; Take jeep to Solsona
0700 Register at Solsona Police Station
0745 ETA jumpoff; finalize guides
0800 Start trek / Commence the Gasgas river crossings
1200 End of the river crossing; Lunch
1300 Acend up to Saulay campsite
1700 ETA Saulay campsite / set up camp
1800 Dinner / socials

Day 2
0600 Breakfast / Break camp
0700 Resume trek
1200 ETA Bubuos campsite / Lunch
1300 Resume trek
1700 ETA Pakpako campsie; set up camp
1800 Dinner / socials

Day 3
0500 Commence assault of Mt. Sicapoo
0900 ETA Mt. Sicapoo summit (2354 MASL)
1300 Back at Pakpako campsite / Lunch
1400 Descend to Bubuos campsite
1700 ETA Bubuos campsite / Set up camp
1800 Dinner / socials

Day 4
0500 Trek to Timarid-Simagaysay
1200 Lunch at Mt. Timarid (1402 MASL)
1300 Arrive at Mt. Simagaysay (2354 MASL)
1700 ETA One Degree Plateau, exit to Solsona dam
1900 Back in Laoag; Head back to Manila

PICTURES FROM MT. SICAPOO FIRST ASCENT
Photo credits: One Degree Mountaineering Group

The Gasgas river crossing is perhaps the most treacherous part of the trail; it is also one of the most breathtaking.

Sight of "the Penguin" is the reward that greets the climber who is about to reach Mt. Sicapoo's summit.

A closer view of "The Penguin".

Morning view of Mt. Sicapoo, from the Timarid ridges.

Although still steep, the open slopes of Timarid and Simagaysay are refreshing.

SPECIAL CONCERNS
Logistics. Right now, there are no mechanisms in place for do-it-yourself contacting of guides in Solsona. Instead, you can make contact with the ONE Degree Mountaineering Group and they can help you make arrangements for onedegreemg@ymail.com. Guides cost P400/day. Archie Pinzon: ""Tight IT 4 days, ave 5 days. approx P1,500 each excluding supplies and fare from your point of origin."

Transportation. From Manila to Laoag, a number of buses ply the route including Maria de Leon, Farinas Trans, and Florida Bus Lines. These liners have terminals in Espana along Lacson St. Fare is around P600 one-way as of July 2010.

Special concerns. Perhaps the most dangerous part of the traverse is the descent via Gasgas River; caution must always be observed before attempting the crossing. If inclement weather is upon the team, an option may be to use the original Timarid-Simagaysay

Temperature is cool, 13-20 degrees, at the summit of Mt. Simagaysay; expect colder figures at the higher campsites (Pakpako campsite is around 1800-1900 MASL). Cellphone signal is present (Smart, Globe) in most parts of the trail. Possible campsites, aside from those mentioned in the itinerary, include the summits of Timarid and Simagaysay. There are usually nearby water sources for the campsites.

TRIVIA
The Ilokano pronunciation of Sicapoo is "shi-ka-puu" although there are variations. Some interesting facts about Mt. Sicapoo were already embedded in the introduction.

FIRST ASCENT
Date: December 29, 2009
One Degree Mountaineering Group: Archie Pinzon (TL), Aggie Pinzon, Louie Ang with Cecil Morella (AMCI), Lester Susi (AMCI) - see picture.

PinoyMountaineer thanks One Degree Mountaineering Group for pioneering the exploration of this mountain, for sharing with us the documentation, and for accommodating the blogger to join him. Special mention also to Cecil Morella of AMCI who was part of the original team and went on to join the first ascent in December 2009.

Hiking matters #92: Southeast Asia is our common heritage!

glasco@gmail.com (gideon) — Sun, 11 Jul 2010 18:36:00 +0000

KUALA LUMPUR - There is no denying that this big city has become the hub for adventurers in Southeast Asia. It is located at the heart of Southeast Asia, connecting the mainland countries (Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos) with the archipelagic states (Philippines, Indonesia, Singapore, Brunei). The presence of low-cost carriers such as AirAsia, and our own Cebu Pacific, has helped establish KL's place as the hub for backpacking and adventure travel in the region. This is my second time here but KL is still quite indecipherable for me! But I find Chinatown a very nice place and a lot of backpackers converge here. Our backpackers' lodge of choice is Back Home, a very efficient, affordable outfit in Chinatown.

With the advent of cheap travel, the world has become smaller, and this is especially true for our neigborhood. Malaysian trekkers are very fortunate, they can fly to the revered high peaks of Indonesia; they can go to Hanoi and Chiang Mai by just one flight; and they can also go to Clark very easily to climb Mt. Pulag. But they're not the only ones who have this advantage. We too can take advantage of the increasingly accessibility of Southeast Asia. We are, after all, citizens of this region and there's so much to see; there's so much beauty around us! Our friends Zaidi Bidin and Shaun Yap from Malaysia have nice mountain blogs. Check them out!

We've just come back from Java, Indonesia and we climbed four mountains there: Gunung Merapi, Gunung Bromo, Kawah Ijen, and Gunung Lawu. All of them were very nice and I'd love to come back. Guess what? I just spent 500 pesos for roundtrip airfare! The food is very delicious and reasonable; they have great recipes for duck and lamb! And like the Philippines they have so many fruits but unlike us, they have made all of them into delicious juices (i.e. there's guava juice in every restaurant!)

The similarity of our culture with Indonesia in Malaysia is manifest in our languages. In Bahasa, they count from 1-5 as such: satu, dua, tiga, empat, lima. Sounds familiar? But it is not just manifest in language or culture; it is also manifest in our very appearance! In many parts of the world things may be different but Southeast Asia is one place where we will be accepted. In a village in Yogyakarta, some elderly women were so delighted about how we looked like some of their grandchildren that they gave us some delicious fruits!!

PinoyMountaineer is committed to be a part of this 'regionalization'. While at KL International Airport, I was thrilled to see PinoyMountaineer.com mentioned in Lonely Planet Southeast Asia Guidebook as the recommended website for Philippine trekking. We will work to make the website more visitor-friendly, and we will come up with recommended "must visits" for hikers who would want to visit the Philippines. Also, hopefully we can also make more friends around the region. We can, and we should form bonds and make correspondences with our fellow mountaineers from other ASEAN countries, and maybe do some exchange visits/ exchange climbs with them! (If you're from another country and you want to climb in the Philippines you can email me at gideon@pinoymountaineer.com)

We are not just Filipino mountaineers; we are ASEAN adventurers. There are many beautiful mountains in the region, not just the popular Gunung Kinabalu (though it's one of the best; I celebrated Christmas 2008 there with my family). There are over a dozen 3000+ meter mountains in Indonesia alone, and this includes Puncak Jaya, one of the Seven Summits and neighboring peaks with cool names such as Trikora.

I visited Batu Caves within KL, and the Bird Park, plus some museums. I may blog about it too, sometime. A few hours from now we will be heading to Siem Reap, Cambodia to see the famed temples of Angkor. And then we will climb mountains Northern Thailand. I invite you all, let's climb more ASEAN mountains in the future. A continuing thanks to Del Bahena, Coby Sarreal, Bianca Silva, and Julian Canero who have accompanied me in this journey!

Hiking matters #89: Phu Chi Fa (1628 MASL) at the Thai-Laos border, one of the "Seven Wonders of Thailand"

glasco@gmail.com (gideon) — Sun, 11 Jul 2010 05:37:00 +0000

CHIANG RAI, Thailand - I had a misconception about Thailand's north: that it would be cold. In fact, it's very hot in here! It is no different from Cambodia where we came from. Bangkok has a different kind of heat right now: the ongoing, violent protests in its streets. As we sped across its highways we saw smoke rising from Siam Square, now converted into a sort of battleground. I would have wanted a rest day in Bangkok, but we proceeded instead to the North. A very efficient and comfortable double-deck bus took us there on a 9-hour ride. Fare was a whopping 900 baht (1200 pesos) but there was even a meal, a blanket, and spacious legroom.

We decided to stay at Chat House, which was relatively far from downtown but walkable. There's internet access here and nice food. I love the native plums at the market, just 20 baht per kilo! We inquired with the people and when we mentioned that we were mountain enthusiasts, they all recommended that we visit Phu Chi Fa (Phucheefah. We saw the pictures and they reminded us of our Mt. Pulag, with a sea of clouds and a spectacular sunset. Unfortunately for us however, the mountain is said to blossom (literally) during the winter months of December and January, when the Thai sakura are in full bloom, and the cloud formations and the sun's position are picture perfect.

Nevertheless, we decided to push through with a Phu Chi Fa hike since it may be a long time before we can come back for a 'winter' trip. We didn't make a mistake - the short hike was well worth it.

Phu Chi Pa comes from Phu (hill or mountain top), Chi (point), Fa (sky) - literally 'pointing to the sky'. Located at Toeng district, it takes 2-3 hours to reach it from Chiang Rai. Even before you begin the 1.8 kilometer trail to the top, the cold breezes will be a refreshment. Then the sheer cliff of Phu Chi Fa will loom ahead, if you climb early in the morning the sun will rise just beside it, and beneath it, if you're lucky, are the sea of clouds.

After the cliff, the next attraction comes at the summit. There, you will be standing at the very border of Thailand and Laos, you can see some Laotian villages just in beneath and in front of you. Majestically, the mountains of the Luang Phrabang range rolls to the north and to the south. Truly it is a splendid sight. Rock formations beyond the fence are precarious but very rewarding photo ops -- one cannot help but feel that we have "crossed over" to Laos and the view is magnificent.

Truly there are rewarding mountain spots here in Northern Thailand. Definitely not challenging, but rewarding. For more challenging treks one must go further north - to China; to the east - to North Vietnam; or to the west, where the foothills of the Himalayas commence.

The blogger, Gideon Lasco, thanks companions Julian Canero of UP Med Outdoor Society; Jacob Sarreal of San Beda Mountaineering Society; and Bianca Silva of Loyola Mountaineers for accompanying him in a trip to Northern Thailand.

THE PEAKS OF THAILAND SERIES
Phu Chi Fa (1,624 MASL) - Hiking Matters #89
Doi Pha Tang (1,635 MASL) - Hiking Matters #90
Doi Inthanon (2,564 MASL) - Hiking Matters #91

Mt. Lanaya (720+) in Alegria, Cebu

glasco@gmail.com (gideon) — Mon, 05 Jul 2010 04:50:00 +0000

MT. LANAYA

Alegria, Cebu

Entry point: poblacion Alegria (highway)/Brgy. Legaspi (foot)
Exit point: Brgy. Lumpan
LLA: 9°42'N, 123°21'E (inexact), 720 MASL

Days required/Hours to summit: 1-2 days; 4-5 hours
Specs: Minor, Exploration, Difficulty 6/9, Trail class 2-3

The original article for this itinerary was writen by Shimero Jainga of Ewit Mountaineering Group. PinoyMountaineer.com thanks him and his club for this invaluable contribution.

BACKGROUND

While the peaceful municipality of Alegria, Cebu boasts of some fine beaches, waterfalls, and hot spring attractions, it has been relatively quiet about a major mountaineering destination unbeknownst to many climbers.

Towering around 700 masl, Mt. Lanaya stands almost at a stark contrast to the surrounding mountain ranges near it. The mountain is defined by forest-covered, knife-edge slopes facing the west, on to the Tañon Strait. From the national highway, one can already see its peak composed of a rock formation the locals call Kalo-kalo Peak. It also nearly hugs the coastline, which is perfect for beachineering activities at a later portion of a trip.

Mt. Lanaya is just a hundred meters away from the main poblacion of Alegria and accessible via a short trail from the main road. In order to get there, climbers have to board a southward bus -- usually going to Bato, Samboan -- at the South Bus Terminal of Cebu City. You can tell the driver to stop at the entrance to Brgy. Legaspi just after the steel bridge. Spend breakfast in one of their mini-marketplaces around the area, or meet up with the guides. Before going to the foot of the mountain however, climbers must make sure their water supplies are secure, since there are no water sources anywhere on the mountain (save for a distant one in the backdoor trail). A total of 3-5 liters of water are recommended on a hot day.

THE TRAIL
The infamous Legaspi trail starts after a sizeable distance of walking in the countryside dirt road. This trail has no comfortable descents; all of it is a steep incline, since it rides a narrow ridge of the mountain. The angle of ascent throughout the trail averages 50-60°. The initial leg is the most striking -- and potentially dangerous: it is covered with loose stone, soil, and rocks which makes a climber slide down more often when not assisted by ropes. During dry season when the ground below is not held together by moisture, the rocks are looser, making assaults awfully difficult and taxing. A climber needs to be very vigilant of his/her water supplies, as the resultant factors, plus the exposed terrain and the blazing sun, will surely zap the energy of any mountaineer.

Successful climbing without the aid of ropes is possible, but not recommended. Shrub roots and solidly-planted stones should be exploited to gain mileage on this hazardous landscape.
Fortunately, the majority of the trail features landscape for secure footing, although it is still unforgiving in its steepness. The path is heavily intertwined with adjoining branches, and as such, it is better to bring smaller backpacks so as not to get entangled with them. At the last quarter of the trail, there is a 90-degree cliff-like obstacle that allows a very small margin of error. Only one climber at a time can climb through the huge rock safely, as behind the rock face a steep drop-off exists. Ropes are again indispensable at this point of the trip.

If you have the stomach for it though, you can look back and gaze into the Tañon Strait through a clearing.

After a good 20 minutes or so of assault, climbers can finally break through the summit clearing and move on towards Kalo-kalo Peak. The stone structure is dotted with plants, and climbers must take care in scrambling up the rock because there is limited space. For a 700-meter mountain, the view from the top is extremely rewarding. During clear mornings, try to look for a hint of your shadow cast onto the expansive Tañon Strait.

For small groups, there is a suitable campsite beneath the summit area, and for larger groups, they can trek down below the forest line to set up camp on level, greener pastures.

ITINERARY

(From Cebu City)

Day 1
0400 Gather at South Bus Terminal, Cebu City

0500 off to Alegria

0900 arrival at Alegria, breakfast, food/water gathering

1000 start trek via Legaspi trail

1200 lunch @ trail

1700 arrival at summit area

1800 arrival at base camp, pitch tent

1900 dinner & socials

Day 2
0500 wakeup call, breakfast

0630 optional or return ascent to Kalo-kalo Peak

0800 break camp, off to Brgy. Lumpan

0900 Lumpan junction, ride habal2x to Alegria proper

1000 Alegria, lunch, beachineering, side trips, etc.

SPECIAL CONCERNS
* Water is an immediate concern once you begin climbing the peak. There are no water sources above; only at the nearest house in the Lumpan trail going out.

* With the above itinerary, it is quite possible to bring meals ready-to-eat (MREs), even for breakfast. This will save the climber from carrying heavier loads.

* Ropes, ropes, ropes. Having these will make it a whole lot easier for your group to go up the aforementioned obstacle courses.

MT. LANAYA PICTURES

Climbers at the summit of Mt. Lanaya in Alegria, Cebu

TRIVIA

* Locals believe the mountain to be an extinct volcano. The author was fairly skeptical of this at first, but seeing as how the summit area forms a shallow caldera, and ascertaining the existence of a few hot springs around the mountain range, this belief couldn’t be far-fetched after all.

* Original trailblazing of the Legaspi trail on Mt. Lanaya has been generally attributed to Geoffrey Ybas, also resident of poblacion Alegria. Since then, there have been a few other mountaineering groups making exploratory climbs in the past several years, with the Ewit Mountaineering Group’s foray this year being the latest in mind.

* From Kalo-kalo Peak, a mountaineer can take a glimpse of Osmeña Peak from the north, Mt. Kanlaon from the northwest in Negros Island, and Mt. Talinis located at the south of Negros.

* The Lumpan trail, from where we made our exit, has a completely different character than that of the Legaspi trail. It requires only a habal2x ride to Brgy. Lumpan, and a brisk hour-and-a-half hike to the campsite proper. If you want to get onto Kalo-kalo Peak quickly, take this executive trail.

Pictures are courtesy of Shimero Jainga of Ewit Mountaineering Group

Hiking matters #90: Doi Pha Tang, the "Gate of Siam"

glasco@gmail.com (gideon) — Sun, 04 Jul 2010 04:40:00 +0000

Another beautiful mountain viewpoint in Chiang Rai province in Northern Thailand is Doi Pha Tang, also at the Thai-Laos border. The winding roads leading to this 1635 MASL viewpoint offer some breathtaking scenery, and of course some cool mountain weather. Part of the Pha Daeng National Park, the mountain is 25 kilometers north of Phu Chi Fa, the more popular peak I wrote about in Chiang Rai. These two northern peaks can be covered in a single trip from Chiang Rai.

What attracted us to Doi Pha Tang is a chance to see Mekong River. Standing at the border between Thailand and Laos, it enables not only views of this majestic river which traces its roots from the Himalayas; but also the verdant mountains of the Luang Phrabang range. When the eastern sea of clouds part, these sights are revealed.

The unique heritage of the ethnic Chinese people - the Haw, the Hmong, and the Yao peoples - also make Doi Pha Tang a unique place to visit. This mountain also has a deeper historical significance. It was a key frontier during the Cold War. An article at Far Eastern Economic Review says of Pha Tang: "In the 1960s and 1970s, United States forces used it as a base for their "secret war" aimed at countering Lao support for communist Vietnamese forces. In later years, fighters based here helped the Thai army defeat communist insurgents." The article goes on to describe how vital Pha Tang was for subsequent struggles - definitely it was a venue where history unfolded.

The hike is very relaxing and easy (Difficulty 2/9 in our standards); the views are scenic and well worth the 160-kilometer trip from Chiang Rai. Rock formations grace the mountain, and one particular rock formation is called the "Gate of Siam" which was literally where spies and soldiers crossed the border. It was a most breathtaking spot (I'm still wondering why we didn't take pictures of it!) There is a higher mountain, Doi Puk Phak Ka, 1794 MASL, it is not easily accessible, but certainly there are many options for hiking in Northern Thailand. Hopefully when I go back I can also see the Thai cherry blossoms that the locals take pride in.

Pictures are courtesy of Julian Canero (UP Med Outdoor Society) and Bianca Silva (Loyola Mountaineers).

THE PEAKS OF THAILAND SERIES

Phu Chi Fa (1,624 MASL) - Hiking Matters #89

Doi Pha Tang (1,635 MASL) - Hiking Matters #90

Doi Inthanon (2,564 MASL) - Hiking Matters #91

Hiking matters #91: 50 seconds to the top of Doi Inthanon, the highest mountain in Thailand

glasco@gmail.com (gideon) — Mon, 28 Jun 2010 14:55:00 +0000

CHIANG MAI, THAILAND - Now on our last day in Thailand we went up Doi Inthanon, the highest peak in Thailand and the so-called "Gateway to the Himalayas". This mountain would distinguish between people who love to climb mountains as a sport (the more difficult and the more challenging, the better), and those who love to climb mountains for the sheer joy of reaching them (the more beautiful and the more diverse, the better). Most of us will fall in between, but Doi Inthanon will disappoint those who belong more to the first category.

Why? Because it takes just 50 seconds to reach the top from where your vehicle can park. And this 'trail' is a staircase.

Yet, the mountain is a refreshing change from the otherwise oven-hot temperatures of Indochina. The mossy forest has been successfully preserved, and the birds thrive in great number - perhaps this is a persuasive argument that tourism and natural beauty can co-exist. Yet, the development of Doi Inthanon has deprived the Thai of a high mountain to climb. It is already the highest peak at 2564 MASL; all the other scenic spots have been made accessible by a network of cement roads and easy footpaths.

This leaves the hiking enthusiast in Thailand with no choice but to head elsewhere for a true challenge. I hope to be proven wrong in the future, but I left Thailand with the impression that there are no serious, major mountains to climb in the country.

Still, Thailand has its own charms. And in spite of the chaos in Bangkok, both actual and perceived, it is a beautiful country, replete with ancient monuments, a living tradition manifest with their reverence for their king. Mt. Inthanon is a good illustrtation: The statue of the king stands at the top of the mountain, and no one can actually go to the very top. This is powerful symbolism that no one is above the king; he is at the very apex of his country. Then there are two shrines in Mt. Inthanon, the Queen's Pagoda and the King's Pagoda (there are even elevators in these shrines!). They point to the sky, beautifully and uniquely, reminiscent of the chedis of Ayuthhaya. Before going back to Chiang Mai, we visited the Wachirathan waterfall along the slopes of Inthanon.

Meanwhile, Chiang Mai is a beautiful city; we got a very nice hotel near the night market and I can't wait to get some bargains later -- and my last bowl of tom yum goong before I return to Manila. This is an advance article: we visited two other mountains in Northern Thailand: Phu Chi Fa and Doi Pha Thang. I will just write about them later when I get back to Manila. I have some backlogs for the Indonesian mountains as well!

I hope the next time I visit the North, I could catch a glimpse of the Thai Sakura and the fabled sunrise of Phu Chi Fa. But since serious mountains are my favorite destinations, perhaps Fan Xi Phan (Mt. Fancipan) in Northern Vietnam may be my next target in Indochina. It's the highest in the region, after all!

Photos courtesy of Julian Canero of the UP Med Outdoor Society.

THE PEAKS OF THAILAND SERIES
Phu Chi Fa (1,624 MASL) - Hiking Matters #89
Doi Pha Tang (1,635 MASL) - Hiking Matters #90
Doi Inthanon (2,564 MASL) - Hiking Matters #91

SEAIR 15th Anniversary Promo offers Batanes seat sale

glasco@gmail.com (gideon) — Mon, 21 Jun 2010 12:32:00 +0000

SEAIR is my favorite airline because its small, low-flying planes enable views of our mountains in a very unique way. When going to Batanes, one of the most spectacular views is the golden peak of Mt. Pulag amid the blue ranges of the Cordilleras. This was a most memorable sight for me. The efficiency of the airline and its dedication to servicing pristine destinations in the Philippines is most commendable.

In celebration of its 15th year, SEAIR is offering Batanes tickets for just 2835 pesos! Batanes of course is home to several mountains of interest, such as Mt. Iraya and Mt. Matarem, Valungid Hill in Sabtang, as well as the elusive northernmost peak of the country, Di'nem Island. These destinations are featured in PinoyMountaineer.com. Boracay is also on sale in SEAIR.

Visit http://flyseair.com or call +632 8490100 for bookings and for more details about this promo.

Mt. Apo's Kidapawan Trail now open / 2nd Mt. Apo Sembreak Climb to be held Oct 22-25!

glasco@gmail.com (gideon) — Thu, 17 Jun 2010 17:11:00 +0000

We have been informed that the Kidapawan Trail has reopened; thus at the moment Mt. Apo is now open on all trails.

A Mt. Apo Traverse is once again possible from Kapatagan to Kidapawan, or vice versa. We are pleased to announce that the 2nd Mt. Apo Sembreak Climb will push through on October 22-25, 2010. Like the first Mt. Apo Sembreak Climb, this will be a traverse involving the Kapatagan and Kidapawan trails.

We are making an early announcement for this trip so people can book flights early and hopefully get discounted airfares from seat sales.

PinoyMountaineer.com is calling for participants in this annual activity that celebrates the beauty of the country's highest mountain. Everyone's invited, but those who are seriously considering to join are advised to sign up early because slots are limited.

Training climbs will be organized for participants, and a general assembly will be held in September at ROX Philippines (exact date TBA).

For inquiries and reservation, we have a dedicated email address, apo@pinoymountaineer.com.

Hiking matters #87: Journeying Java 3 - Gunung Merapi, the Mountain of Fire

glasco@gmail.com (gideon) — Mon, 07 Jun 2010 15:06:00 +0000

After climbing Gunung Bromo and descending down the sulphuric Kawah Ijen, we proceeded to Yogyakarta to see the ancient temples of Borobodur and Prambanan. Paman Edy, our Indonesian driver and guide, drove us nonstop from Surabaya to Borobodur, where we awaited the sunrise. It was also from here that we caught the first glimpse of Gunung Merapi.
Merapi literally means "Mountain of Fire" and it is an apt description for what is arguably the "most active volcano in the world" (our own Taal Volcano ranks second in some lists). At over 2900 MASL, this volcano is a towering presence over Central Java, visible even from Gunung Penanjakan on our first day, as we turned our back from the majestic view of Gunung Semeru.

There are two approaches to Mt. Merapi: the first is via the highland town of Kaliurang, which is a favorite of Indonesian students as a place to chill. The other is an eastern approach from the village of Selo, between Yogya and Surakarta. Although this approach takes you to the summit, due to weather and safety considerations we opted for the Kaliurang trail, hoping to catch a glimpse of the lava flows that are said to glow in the night.

So from our temple tour, we headed straight to Kaliurang and stayed at Vogel's Guesthouse. This is a very simple, Dutch-style accommodation, but I loved their Chicken Paniki which is from a recipe from Manado. There was also a good library of books. I was pleasantly surprised to see PinoyMountaineer.com in the Lonely Planet guidebook for the whole of Southeast Asia!

The next day, very early, we were joined by two Dutch guys on the Mount Merapi trek. There was a drizzle when we started, but we pressed on. As we went higher, the guide vividly narrated the history of the volcano, relating its behavior to myths that personify Merapi as a metaphysical kingdom. Disappointingly, there was no lava flow but we saw the rivers of dried lava from the previous eruptions. The forests were very refreshing; the breezes were cool and it was really nice to trek in the slopes of the "world's most active volcano".

We took it easy afterwards, heading instead of the cultural city of Yogya. Having dinner in one of the street stalls at Maliboro Street, and watching wayang kulit, count among. The next day we would be heading to another volcanic feature of Java: the Dieng Plateau.

PinoyMountaineer.com thanks the ASEAN Adventure Team: Jacob Sarreal, Bianca Silva, Del Mijena, and Julian Canero for accompanying him in Java from May 5-13, 2010.

Four Waterfalls in One Day pictures / New schedule on July 3, 2010

glasco@gmail.com (gideon) — Sun, 06 Jun 2010 12:31:00 +0000

With the success of the Four Waterfalls in One Day (4wd) that we have designed and held twice last summer, we are pleased to announce that we are holding the 4WD again on July 3, 2010. Now that the rainy season has set it, the mossy environs to have regenerated and we can expect the waterfalls to be more majestic.

The 4WD covers the following waterfalls in just one day: the crystal clear Majayjay Falls (also known as Taytay or Imelda Falls); Bunga Falls, the twin falls of Nagcarlan; as well as Daranak Falls and Batlag Falls in Rizal. In the middle of the waterfall-hopping, an exciting lunch at "Exotik Restaurant" in Kalayaan, Laguna is part of the trip.

The 4WD on July 3, 2010 is P1,700/person with special discounts for large groups. Slots are limited. For reservations and more information, contact Jacob at 0916-236-5670 or email daytrips@pinoymountaineer.com

Thank you to everyone who joined the past two 4WDs! Your pictures are posted here in this post, a special thanks to those who shared them!

Hiking matters #86: Climbing the Taraw Cliffs of El Nido

glasco@gmail.com (gideon) — Wed, 02 Jun 2010 09:53:00 +0000

EL NIDO, PALAWAN - I am here for a brief retreat, expecting to just strum the guitar while watching the waves in this calm and beautiful beach, but I couldn't resist it when I saw the words "Cliff Climbing" in one of the tourism posters. It was said to be a quick but challenging activity, and I signed up for an early morning guided climb.

The destination was one of the 'Taraw Cliffs' just within El Nido town proper. Composed of jagged, sharp, and irregular edges, these rock cliffs are a formidable presence in El Nido (and, for that matter, Coron and other parts of Northern Palawan). Although an adrenaline-packed recreation to visitors, traversing these cliffs is a way of life to the locals who harvest the 'bird's nest' that is a prized delicacy in Oriental cultures. At P200,000/kilo, this is one of the major industries of El Nido, which actually derives its very name from the birds' nests.

The cliff climb started at 0730H, and it was no joke: you really have to scale some serious rocks with pointed edges. Although it is not too hard (ropes are not needed), it is very challenging for a morning activity; and very rewarding as well. At the top - said to be over 200 meters high - the view of El Nido town and its beach cove - and the islands of Bacuit archipelago littered around it - was breathtaking. Although my thumb nearly got crushed by one of those pointed rocks (thankfully the pain is subsiding), the climb is highly-recommended for vi sitors to El Nido. It will also be interesting to explore the other cliffs which might offer more exciting ascents.

But of course, go head to the beaches and the islands first! Contrary to its reputation as a paradise with exhorbitant prices, El Nido actually has backpacker-friendly places to stay. Also, it is now very convenient to go there with SEAIR having twice-weekly flights directly to town. The flight aboard the 19-seater was very smooth and we saw the mountains of Batangas, Mindoro, and even Coron along the way.

We got back from the cliffs at 1100H and had a nice brunch at Alternative Bar and Inn which is a very nice place to chill. It's a lazy day from now on. Back to the guitar and the sound of waves!

To climb the Taraw Cliffs, just go to El Nido town proper and ask for a guide who can take you. According to our guide, the best time to start climbing is early in the morning where the monkeys are still loitering around. Direct flights to El Nido are serviced by SEAIR every Sunday and Wednesday. For bookings visit www.flyseair.com or call +6328490100.

Join the PinoyMountaineer.com Team!

glasco@gmail.com (gideon) — Sat, 29 May 2010 04:20:00 +0000

I need help in the blog, and I would like to extend the invitation for people who might be interested in the following positions.

(1) Junior blogger/s - basically to help me run the blog. Experience in hiking and/or blogging is a plus but not a requirement; membership in a university- or college-based mountaineering or outdoor club is also an advantage. But what I'm looking for is someone who is very passionate about writing, hiking, and travel.

(2) Layout editor / Website developer - Knowledge in Web applications, including basic scripts and plug-ins, as well as creativitiy in web designing. Will be given the opportunity to help redesign and expand PinoyMountaineer.com.

These are voluntary positions but there will also be rewards in the form of opportunities and experiences that come with blogging. Highly interested? Drop me a line at gideon@pinoymountaineer.com.

Hiking matters #85: Journeying Java Part 2 - Kawah Ijen with its incredible sulphur

glasco@gmail.com (gideon) — Fri, 21 May 2010 12:49:00 +0000

After our Gunung Bromo adventure we proceeded to the Catimoor Homestay, high up the slopes of Gunung Ijen. Java is really vast and this trip took over 6 hours! The homestay is in Blawan Village in Bondowoso - the base of a vast coffee plantation (hence Java's long association with coffee), and at the hotel, free-flowing coffee and tea were served; both were very rich and flavorful. Fresh strawberry juice was also a delight, and it was very cheap at 3,000 Rp - practically just 15 pesos a glass! There was also a nice hot spring mini-pool where I spent part of the night in deep thought.

Early the next day we took a short drive to the jumpoff of the trek to Kawah Ijen. This trail is used both by trekkers and the sulphur harvesters. These men carry a total of 70 kilos of sulphur rocks, loaded in two baskets that are hung on their shoulders. They carry this heavy load up the crater rim and - earning just around 200 pesos per trip! Because the load is so heavy, they're only able to do two trips per day so . Not to mention that heavy, toxic fumes of sulphur that they have to endure. We will find out later on just how toxic those fumes were.

The trek initially passed through forest, and the grassland surrounded by dead tree trunks that look like victims of acid rain. This may very well be the case since sulphuric acid can evaporate and rain down on the poor trees.

Finally, after 1.5 hours, we reached the Gunung Ijen ridge, where we could view the crater underneath. Sulphuric steam continued to effuse from vents, obscuring an otherwise beatiful crater lake of milky blue-green waters, just like Mt. Pinatubo. There was the option to go down, but we waited for the wind to change direction, so we would be spared of the fumes.

Feedback from trekkers who went ahead of us were not reassuring: a Canadian guy got his foot scalded when he tripped into the hot waters of the lake. Others complained of the steep slope and loose rocks; with some mentioned the irritation brought about by the sulphur fumes. Nonetheless, we pushed through to experience the incredible sulphur mines for ourselves.

After around 30 minutes of descent - including picture-taking whenever the wind would change direction, opening up a view of the lake - we reached the sulphur mine. Braving the strong sulphur steam, the men fork out rocks, and haul it up back to the jumpoff c/o the sulphur bearers I described earlier. We saw that permanent hematoma (blood clots) have formed around the bearers' backs, indicating that the sheer weight of the rocks are taking a toll on their bodies. Of course the sulphur too would surely have some detrimental effect to the respiratory system. But they kept their cheer. Indonesians, like the Filipinos, are a cheerful, friendly people and they even sang traditional songs which we greatly appreciated.

Suddenly, while staying near the mine, the wind changed direction and we were engulfed in a cloud of sulphur. Without gas masks to protect our lungs, we tried to run as quickly as possible to escape the toxicity; we made it but our lungs took some toll because I was wheezing for several minutes even after we were out of the cloud; wheezing indicates irritation in the lungs and could lead to difficulty of breathing. Fortunately, it quickly resolved and I did not experience other symptoms.

We scrambled back to the ridge, hoping to completely escape the fumes. Then, we headed back to the jumpoff. It was another otherworldy sight that greeted us, just like in Mt. Bromo, but this time there was a human component in the form of the sulphur bearers. The existence of such a livelihood is a thought-provoking example of how man will go to extremes to make ends meet. Perhaps their relationship with the volcano is deeper, and they trust that it will sustain, not destroy them.

After the climb with headed to cultural town of Yogyakarta for a cultural interlude, as well as to see the famous temples of Borobodur and Prambanan in Central Java.

Hiking matters #84: Journeying Java Part 1 - Introduction / Gunung Bromo and the breathtaking views of Gunung Semeru

glasco@gmail.com (gideon) — Thu, 20 May 2010 16:29:00 +0000

CHIANG RAI, THAILAND - It is arguable whether they are a blessing or a curse, but I will lean on where my bias lies and say that Java is blessed by many volcanoes. I think the Javanese, with their profound reverence for their volcanoes, will agree with me. Volcanic eruptions are a matter of course in Java, taking its toll on people in terms of lives and property, but these volcanoes have also blessed the land with fertile soil, and they are some of the biggest draw of the island in terms of tourism. Still, there is also , and yearly thousands of prayers are uttered; thousands of flower garlands are thrown on craters, in the hope of appeasing the volcanoes and whatever gods they represent.

This is Java: volcanoes are an integral part of their lives. There are so many of them, and they rise in impressive heights, starting from Gunung Semeru, which at 3676 is over 700 meters higher than Mt. Apo. Several other Javanese mountains are over 3000 MASL. Unlike in the Philippines where mountains are usually concentrated in mountain ranges, in Java the highlands are isolated domains. Thus there are numerous Sagada or Baguio-like towns and villages in Java, surrounding each mountain.

There are so many components to a mountain - the geography, the geology; of course the beauty, and then the culture - and this has drawn me and my friends to visit some of the volcanoes and highlands of Java to experience it for ourselves. The trip - lasting for a week - was highly rewarding. To make it such a complete experience we are grateful to the Indonesian guides who have become our friends - Agus of Mt. Bromo and 'Paman' Edi and Yogyakarta. Now let me begin my narrative:

One fine May afternoon we arrived at Surabaya airport from Kuala Lumpur, and we were immediately welcomed by our guides Agus and Kojack. After a sumptuous dinner - the 'kambing oven' or roast lamb - we proceeded to the mountain village of Cemoro Lawang and stayed in our hotel - Cemara Indah. The elevation here was already quite high at over 2000 MASL.

The next day, after just a few hours of sleep but in a very cold and soothing clime, we headed to the summit of Mt. Penanjakan (2770 MASL) by a 4WD jeep and a short hike, and there we awaited the sunrise. The view of Mt. Semeru - said to the avatar of no less than the celestial Mt. Meru - was awesome; flanked as it were by the other mountains, the most prominent of which was Mt. Bromo. It effused smoke, even as the towering presence of Semeru spewed ash clouds - it allegedly erupts daily - a demonstration of the volcanism of Java.

After that, we headed by 4x4 to the vast plain called the Sand Sea or Lautan Pasir. The landscape was breathtaking. Finally we arrived at the foot of Mt. Bromo where a Hindu temple lies (the indigenous Tenggerese people are Hindu, just like Bali). we then started to climb Gunung Bromo itself - and after just 40 minutes we reached the summit, which was also the crater rim.

It was pretty much like Kanlaon, but this time volcanic steam rises from the crater with its sulphuric smell; the rim features stunning views and was the culmination of a very rewarding Day 1 of our journey.

Next destination: Kawah Ijen (Ijen Crater) and its sulphur operations.

Mt. Bromo in East Java: My 24th Birthday Climb

glasco@gmail.com (gideon) — Sat, 08 May 2010 12:11:00 +0000

YOGYAKARTA, INDONESIA - Finally I can relax here in the mountainous retreat town of Kaliurang, just north of Yogyakarta in Central Java, after trekking in two breathtaking destinations, the first being Gunung Bromo in East Java - perhaps the most famous volcanic destination in all of Indonesia. It is just an easy climb, but the breathtaking views of the Gunung Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park made it a worthy venue of my birthday climb. In the picture, I am lying at the very edge of the crater of Mt. Bromo - one of the most active volcanoes in Indonesia.

The food here is very cheap and delicious, and with the very low prices of commodities like oil and sugar, the standard of living is in general very cheap and affordable. That's why I'm thinking that Indonesia may be a new frontier for Filipino mountaineers to explore. There are many volcanoes here, foremost of which is Mt. Semeru, at an impressive 3676 MASL. Unfortunately it is not safe for trekking at the moment. Then there are many others like Mt. Raung (3332 MASL), Mt. Lawu (3150 MASL), and beyond Java there is Gunung Rinjani at a very impressive 3702 MASL! The list is dizzying and so are the views.

Then of course there are the cultural monuments which we visited today, Borobodur and Prambanan. I will write about them, as well as other volcanoes that we visited (and plan to visit) here in Indonesia. I just took this time to share the wonderful experience, as well as thank everyone, especially the mountaineers, who greeted me in my 24th birthday. My companions Del, Julian, Bianca, and Coby send their greetings as well. I haven't had the time to check my Facebook. Will post more pictures later!

Hiking matters #82: Dayhiking Mt. Puting Bato in Samal Island, Davao

glasco@gmail.com (gideon) — Sat, 01 May 2010 08:18:00 +0000

Last Tuesday I was accompanied by members of the Ateneo de Davao Mountaineering Club (AMC) on a dayhike of Mt. Puting Bato in Samal Island. This peak is one of the many outdoor possibilities within range of Davao City, and a quick hiike at that, perfect for my schedule since I only had 25 hours to spend in Davao City.

Mt. Puting Bato is a popular dayhike destination for the outdoor enthusiasts of Davao. It stands at 410 MASL and it so named because of the characteristically white limestone wall. Although this white facade of the mountain has been obscured by vegetation, it remains a prominent feature of the island; its white peak visible in some parts of Davao City.

I met AMU president Bryan and members Ron and Xang at the Samal Wharf at Km. 11, and we proceeded to Samal Island by bus/barge. After dropping off and buying fruits in Penablanca, a habal-habal took us to Sitio Guilon - the jumpoff. I bought the fruits because they've become my favorite trail food.

It was a quick climb, with trails characteristic of small island peaks elsewhere in the Philippines. The trail was somewhat exposed to the sun, reminiscent perhaps of Gulugod Baboy. The view of Mt. Apo, with its contiguous and composite peaks, Talomo and Sibulan, dominated the northern view. We rested at the campsite where a hut was manned by two kids; they got fresh buco juice for us from the coconut trees.

We proceeded to the peak area where views of south were at hand, including the mountains of Davao Oriental and the sea that faces Indonesia -- completing the panorama.

Then, we decided to go down. There is a traverse to reach the beaches at the southern part of the island, but as I said I only had 25 hours in Davao and I had other things to do so the beaches, and the Hagimit falls, would have to remain unfinished business.

The backtrack descent: It was a breeze, taking just around 30 minutes to reach the jumpoff. Before heading back to Davao City we ate at a cardineria in Samal and the food was unbelievably excellent: I feasted on tentacles of a giant squid, and there were other local delicacies at very cheap prices!

Overall, it was a nice, quick dayhike in samal Island - a worthy part of my quick trip to Davao. Between now and 2005 when I visited Davao, a lot has changed; there are many shops and restaurants now; exciting outdoor destinations, and of course new friends. I ought to come back.

PinoyMountaineer thanks Bryan, Ron, and Xang of the Ateneo de Davao Mountaineering Club for accompanying the blogger up Mt. Puting Bato on April 27, 2010.

My solo expedition to Mt. Apo: The diary of a dream fulfilled

glasco@gmail.com (gideon) — Sat, 01 May 2010 01:04:00 +0000

Introduction (written Nov. 10, 2005)

Climbing Mt. Apo was a dream I had thought was beyond me. I heard all about it in textbooks, in the news, in the Internet, but all I knew that in Mindanao there’s this Mt. Apo, the grandest and tallest mountain in the country. My first travels to Mindanao last summer, before my 19th birthday, opened a door I previously thought was unreachable, and last month I began to envision a Mt. Apo trip with Franz via Davao or Gen. San…Inay provided the mileage, Uncle the accommodation with Tita Maricar’s relatives in Davao, and my parents, my sister, my brother, and of course Teresa all provided moral support for this trip. I was faced with much skepticism and opposition, and even my parents were telling me to reconsider. But I couldn’t – giving up is not the way to the stars. Even as would-be companions backed out, I went on, taking risks along the way, armed with courage. And indeed I reached my dream.

Davao City is the best I’ve visited so far – and I’ve barely seen all its wonders.

Traveling has been a great privilege that has only been very recently given me. I will seize the day and take advantage of every opportunity to fulfill my grand dream of seeing the world in all its beauty, diversity, and grandeur.

October 31, 2005

7:23 AM. Now in Kidapawan-bound van in front of SM City Davao. I was blessed with a sunny day – I hope this is a good omen. The fare is P140, waiting time around 30 minutes. In a way, because I don’t understand Visayan (or Davaoeño) all the conversation becomes like a background to me.

More waiting.

9:40 AM. Arrived in Kidapawan city, van terminal near public market. Pines divide the road, the main street is lined with 2-storey buildings.

12:30 PM. I’m overwhelmed by everuthing…I’m now in Mt. Apo, 1000 MASL. All the people are surprised by my bravery of coming alone (or is it madness?) – from the Kidapawan City Tourism Office to the natives here, one of whom even asked my cell number.

12:49 PM. Now in Lake Agko. Start of trek.

3:00 PM, 1500 MASL. After intense trekking, I've reached Mainit – the first of three stations in the Kidapawan trail. I'm all wet and tired…will cook and have a long trek to Lake Venado if this is still possible. The hot spring to the left (relative to trail going to Venado) is a source of great comfort and warmth. I love hanging out there by myself. Although I have hired two guides to accompany me (one of my parents' conditions for allowing me is that I should take two guides), I feel like all alone in this climb, accompanied only by my resolve to reach the country’s highest peak.

4:27 PM. Strong rains forced us to stay here in Mainit; my two guides, Jun-Jun and Arnel, have set up camp and are now cooking. I’ve met hikers from the Red Cross – Cotabato City chapter and from them, I purchased two butane cylinders (I bought the wrong ones in KIdapawan thanks to Arnel’s stupidity)

4:40 PM. I’ve settled inside the tent with three layers of clothing. Thankfully we’re here although I fear the tent will not hold out much longer against the heavy rains (the weather is really forbidding and romantic- I mean, this is the stuff of action and RPGs!) I dread the prospect of tomorrow’s difficult ascent to Lake Venado, then the peak. We must really wake up very early in the morning if we are to set camp in Venado (and from there go to the peak in the afternoon and back). This is the most feasible thing to do – I can already imagine how cold the night at the peak will be at 10 C.

There were lots of ‘exhibition’ trails, but the route is filled with natural wonders: mosses, lichens, a raging river called Marbel, and for the first time, a sight of Mt. Apo’s peak but the difficulty of climbing / crawling through rocks and doing balancing acts on coconut trunks to cross the raging river – all these things render the beautiful sights of towering trees and all the natural wonders I’ve dreamt of irrelevant for now. The hot spring is really a great source of comfort.

The flora is marvelous; the pine trees remind me of Mt. Pulag.

The river crossing on a log is nerve-wracking, and it really scared me to death. My life, so to speak, is in the hands of the Baroro brothers, my guides.

Good old tent that shielded me from Pulag’s chill will now try to rescue me from Apo’s rain. It’s raining very heavily now, torrent is more like it; I don’t even want to go out even though I have to eat. This respite is priceless; tomorrow we can surely reach the peak, or else at least Lake Venado [I recall I was beginning to doubt my plan at this point – edited Nov 9 2005].

November 1, 2005

4:00 AM. After a shiftless, restless night I opened the tent and found myself seeing the grandest array of stars I’ve ever seen! I even saw shooting stars, almost every minute…the Milky Way is a milky way indeed! The different constellations came into view! Today we may yet make it to Lake Venado and then the peak. The stars have spoken: it is God’s sign. This realization is a great comfort to me, and today I set off to conquer Mt. Apo!

9:56 AM. 2295 MASL, 18.5 C, sunny. We arrived at Lake Venado after just 3 hrs 45 mins. We passed by steep, muddy, and mossy trails – I rested frequently but miraculously, we’re here. I’m very elated. The peak is just two hours away from me. Lake Venado is idyll, and I want to bath in the lake!

We journeyed through the forests until around 8:30, and we were told that we’re already more than halfway. As we walked through the jungle, to our right were PNOC installation. We also passed by a tall waterfall. Ending the forest path are two ‘killer’ trails: the ‘87’ and the ‘90’ – numbers that refer to its slope in degrees, both known to have taken its toll on climbers. Fortunately the ‘90’ is now made safer by ropes, and I found it very easy.

We can make it to the peak in two hours – definitely we’ll be back here in Lake Venado by 6 PM later. I’m overwhelmed by our luck.

Doubting God, I mistook the shooting stars for lightning and the running river for rain. I was praying for rain to stop, almost complaining, not knowing that God, in his goodness, has already answered my prayer.

Two expeditions from Luzon this week: the Ayala Mountaineers, 96 of them, and me, the Gideon Lasco expedition.

Thank God – he is Lord of all. And today I go to the peak to offer my thanksgiving!

Lake Venado, 2400 MASL

Honestly I'm quite surprised that I'm here. I didn’t really realize how difficult this will be. I underestimated the mountain.

It is really sunny. The weather forecasts say it will rain all day, but who is in command? God will not lead me where he cannot guide me.

The mossy forests are picturesque. It’s my vision of mossy swamps. My guides Arnel and Jun-Jun are Bagobo. Their language is similar to T’boli, though they say it’s very different.

1:37 PM, 14 C, 2,956 MASL. Now at peak of Mt. Apo, the country’s highest point! This achievement is truly a profound experience for me. This is not a 3-day climb, but a month-long plan and a lifelong dream that comes to realization here and now as clouds pass me by. The experience is too deep for even me to fathom.

Wild blackberries, edible and sweet, abound. Below me is a dead lake, the old crater of Mt. Apo’s eruption in 1650. It took 2.5 hours to reach this from Lake Venado, and I expect that we’ll have difficulty going back – muddy trails amid the cold, and impeding rain even. But it is worth it. Here I am almost freezing but my heart is burning with joy. Miles to go, miles to go, but with God I am ever ready.

I dedicate this climb to God, who granted me a chance to go up here. There's signal here and I called my parents as well as Teresa. My fingers are numb though because of the cold and the excitement; I couldn't text

We’re about to leave again. Mt. Apo is my most difficult, daring, and dramatic climb. A momentous event indeed.

The winds continue to blow.

Peak of Mt. Apo, 2,956 +

6:00 PM. My excitement was doused after the arduous trek down. I’m back in Lake Venado but I don’t feel that good – it’s raining, it’s cold, I got a patellar bruise that nearly tore my ligament, and my gut wants to relieve itself already. I hope we can be back by lunch at the jump-off. And by dinner I’ll have Auntie Indes’ specials!

November 2, 2005

5:13 AM, 13 C. Again, miraculously, I survived the rainy and chilly night here in Lake Venado. It’s colder than Mainit, and thankfully I decided to spend the night here. Just like the other night, after the rains came a total clearing of the sky.

I am a little scared by the trail later – it’s bound to be difficult – the steep descent to Mainit and the river crossing to Lake Agko. But by lunchtime hopefully all this is over.

My hired guides are somewhat inadequate but they were able to safely lead me to the peak, and they’ve been kinder to me yesterday – trying to please me by taking care of everything, even trying to collect one whole bottle of berries for me at the summit. They climbed as my 'servants', in a way; they will descend as my friends.

Lessons: (1) have faith in God always; (2) don’t hike alone in Mt. Apo; (3) clothes get wet and it gets so uncomfortable – bring as many garbage bags as possible; and (4) bring as much food as you can, especially chocolates and junk foods.

12:00 PM. We made it back! Details later.

1:24 PM. Now back in Kidapawan City. I picked up my Certificate of Conquest from the Tourism Office.

3:45 PM. The sun burned me while I was in the van, but thankfully I’m back here at the GSIS house. I’m all red with sunburn – cumulative from Day 1 till now – but I’m glad we made the descent in record time: it only took five hours from Lake Venado to the jump-off point – we fared much better than the Cotabato City Red Cross chapter. Normally it takes seven hours to descend.

I paid P1,600 for the two guides. I have wounds, scratches all over but I accept them; they are a trophy for me. Long after they are gone, the memory of this experience will remain and I'm sure it will inspire me to keep climbing and keep pursuing my dreams!

Gaerlan Residence, 16 Eagle Street

GSIS Subdivision, Davao City

Endnote: Indeed, almost 5 years later, my solo expedition of Mt. Apo still remains, and it continues to inspire me to keep climbing!

Four Waterfalls in One Day - Daytrip on May 29, 2010!

glasco@gmail.com (gideon) — Fri, 30 Apr 2010 08:42:00 +0000

Last year we introduced the pioneering daytrips to the Seven Lakes of San Pablo. On April 2010 the first waterfalls daytrip was held organized by Jacob Sarreal for PinoyMountaineer.com and we are very grateful for those who participated in this pioneering trip. A lot of itinerary lessons were learned in this trip that will applied in future schedules.

Following this principle of making a most of a single day in a fun and relaxing way, we are repeating the 4WD: 4 Waterfalls in 1 Day! Daytrip on May 29, 2010 (Saturday) to close the summer season. This novel adventure will take the group to up to four of the beautiful waterfalls of Laguna and Rizal: Daranak and Batlag Falls in Tanay, Taytay Falls in Majayjay, and Bunga Falls in Nagcarlan, Laguna. Bring your cameras and swimwear as bathing and sightseeing are the two major activities in this trip. There will only be minimal trekking involved.

There will be an interesting foodtrip as well! The trip includes lunch at Exotik Restaurant in Kalayaan, Laguna. A menu of snake or bayawak meat will be served (only for those who want to try these local delicacies). A possible sidetrip is Lake Caliraya, the man-made lake in Laguna.

COST
The tour will cost P1,700 per person inclusive of private roundtrip transportation, entrance fees to all the parks/waterfalls, and set meal at Exotik Restaurant in Kalayaan, Laguna

ITINERARY
0430 Departure from Manila (Assembly is McDonalds QAve-EDSA)
0700 WATERFALL 1: BUNGA FALLS
0800 WATERFALL 2: MAJAYJAY FALLS
1100 Caliraya Lake sidetrip
1230 Lunch at Exotik Restaurant, Kalayaan, Laguna
1500 WATERFALL 3: DARANAK FALLS
1530 WATERFALL 4: BATLAG FALLS
1700 Head back to Manila
2000 Back to Manila

*Note: Itinerary may change depending on the situation as well as the pace and wishes of the participants.

This trip is a "limited edition" trip as it will only be offered this summer. Reserve your slots now! For more information please email Jacob at daytrips@pinoymountaineer.com or contact him at 09162365670.

Hiking matters #82: Thank you!

glasco@gmail.com (gideon) — Mon, 19 Apr 2010 12:57:00 +0000

I'd like to thank everyone who joined and supported the Friendship Climb in Mt. Pulag last weekend. It was very nice to be back in Mt. Pulag, certainly one of the most beautiful places in the Philippines. Although I've visited the mountain several times already, each climb is special, and all the more this one.

Also, this climb comes at the heels of problems in local politics that has threatened to unnecessarily close Mt. Pulag. In a way, the visit of our group is a way of supporting the continued use of Mt. Pulag as a destination for responsible visitors. The guides were very appreciate of our visit, and clearly they are doing their best to earn their guide fees.

I had hoped that the itinerary would go smooth but we encountered some difficulties, particularly in transportation. For these inconveniences, I'm sorry for these and other lapses on the part of the organizers, and I appreciate the very understanding, very patient disposition of our participants. Thanks to your compliance to the itinerary, it was followed even ahead of schedule.

I'm still awaiting pictures so I can't post a full-length blog entry yet. But again, I want to thank the participants for supporting the Friendship Climb. I hope the friendships made during the climb will not be lost and we will see each other again in the trails in the future!