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		<title><![CDATA[Plumbing Forum - Professional & DIY Plumbing Forum]]></title>
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		<description>Plumbing forum with forums for professional and DIY enthusiasts to exchange plumbing information. Forums about pipes, toilet, bath, sink, shower, drain, septic and more.</description>
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			<title>Pressure Regulator Valve</title>
			<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/PlumbingForum/~3/EsKlZ6CszHM/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 24 May 2013 13:35:14 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Please help! I awoke to some flooding from my PRV.  Attached is the picture of it and I know in most forum postings it says the whole piece will need...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Please help! I awoke to some flooding from my PRV.  Attached is the picture of it and I know in most forum postings it says the whole piece will need to be replaced. I wanted to know because it is leaking or spraying from the gray plastic cover where the tag is, can I just replace the plastic cap?<br />
<br />
The brand is called the honeywell braukmann D 06 F series and after more research i believe that particular piece is called the &quot;spring bonnet&quot;<br />
<br />
Thanks much!!</div>


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<img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/PlumbingForum/~4/EsKlZ6CszHM" height="1" width="1"/>]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.plumbingforums.com/forum/f2/">General Plumbing Help</category>
			<dc:creator>jujubee</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.plumbingforums.com/forum/f2/pressure-regulator-valve-4440/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Plumb Talk</title>
			<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/PlumbingForum/~3/dL1r7FaTHk0/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 24 May 2013 02:34:49 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>How often do you guys actually calculate the fitting allowance? Or do you just eye ball it or just measure once type deal?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>How often do you guys actually calculate the fitting allowance? Or do you just eye ball it or just measure once type deal?</div>

<img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/PlumbingForum/~4/dL1r7FaTHk0" height="1" width="1"/>]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.plumbingforums.com/forum/f2/">General Plumbing Help</category>
			<dc:creator>MrPavao</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title>Sump Pump Check Valve Connection</title>
			<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/PlumbingForum/~3/SmWjVlRz4AM/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 21:39:57 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[First time member here so I hope this question hasn't been asked before. 
 
I've recently had two experiences where the rubber connector of a sump...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>First time member here so I hope this question hasn't been asked before.<br />
<br />
I've recently had two experiences where the rubber connector of a sump pump check valve let go, in ones of those cases with catastrophic consequences.  I'm wonder if it better to use a glue-in check valve.  Obviously down the road that may result in having to cut own the valve and replace it with a new one but that seems to be a small price to pay for a secure connection.</div>

<img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/PlumbingForum/~4/SmWjVlRz4AM" height="1" width="1"/>]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.plumbingforums.com/forum/f2/">General Plumbing Help</category>
			<dc:creator>JohnC777</dc:creator>
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			<title>Sewer pipe slow drainage problem</title>
			<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/PlumbingForum/~3/KyJZ9hWjues/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 21:16:23 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>My duplex was built in 1968 and sits below street level.  A few months ago I began having problems with slow sewer drainage. 
 
Access to the...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My duplex was built in 1968 and sits below street level.  A few months ago I began having problems with slow sewer drainage.<br />
<br />
Access to the clean-out is just outside the front door and runs 50ft to the county's clean out and 14ft to street.  The clean-out next to the street was recently installed because the county said they could not do anything until I installed one.  Once installed, they came out and ran what looked like a thick piece of wire into the clean out and said it was clear.  <br />
<br />
The section of pipe we removed had some sludge on the bottom but none on the sides, and  the sewer pipe at the point of the clean-out  is 10ft below ground – I measured it. Two plumbers – from different companys -  agree that should be sufficient drop.  However, both of their solutions involve replacing the sewer line from the house to the street with no guarantee that it will solve the problem. They are probably right, but because I live on a fixed-income - disabled vet - I'm looking for a more affordable solution, if that's possible. <br />
<br />
First, there are no trees in my yard and the nearest one is the neighbor's across the street – maybe 30ft. Most recently my friend ran a sewer snake three times with different ends and I still have standing water in the pipe.  When we put a water hose with a high-pressure nozzle in the pipe and turn it on the water whooshes out and there is barely any water in the bottom of the pipe.  Then I open the clean-out next to the street and can hear the water whooshing by and feel air blowing out of the pipe. No matter how long I run the water the pipe stays clear.<br />
<br />
Now, when I turn off the water and count to ten, I see water surging back (up-hill) to the clean out next to the house.  The pipe is then holding about one inch of water,  When I flush the toilet if flows through without causing any real change in the water level and everything in the house seems to drain properly.<br />
<br />
At one point, I tried using a gallon of sewer line cleaner and it recommended removing as much water as possible from the pipe.  So, I used the wet-vac and got approximately 20 gallons of water from beyond the clean-out next to the house.  Very little, if any, came from inside the house.   The water was a littler murky but did not have any trace of debris, sewage, or dirt.  I live in Georgia where we call this “red stuff” dirt.<br />
<br />
So my question is, why can I force water into the pipe and hear it surging past the clean-out near the street – then stop the water and see it surge back to the clean-out next the house after 10 seconds? <br />
<br />
If I have to replace the sewer line I will - I'll just have to figure out a way to pay for it.  But I need some help help understanding how that will solve the problem when everything I tried has not?  What am I missing...besides a real lack of plumbing knowledge? <br />
<br />
Thanks for any clues.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.plumbingforums.com/forum/f3/">Drain and Sewer Cleaning</category>
			<dc:creator>DuplexOwner</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title>Trouble with bathroom drains.</title>
			<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/PlumbingForum/~3/XAg-_Kso52A/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 06:25:01 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>My dad and I are renovating a place and are having issues with 2 bathrooms draining. One bathroom (the main problem) is an upstairs bathroom and the...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My dad and I are renovating a place and are having issues with 2 bathrooms draining. One bathroom (the main problem) is an upstairs bathroom and the other is on the main floor. Both of these run into the same septic tank. I have supplied a pic to maybe help better understand/diagnose an alternative repair. A week or so back the toilet upstairs wouldnt flush so my dad plunged it. It would start to go down but would fill back up. After a few plunges he went outside and water was dripping off the top of the house and he noticed toilet paper coming out of the vent. This is not good. Also the toilet on the main floor started having flushing issues also. He called and had someone come out to pump out the septic at the cost of $300 and it didnt solve anything. We got the lines dug up in several places and drilled holes in the drain pipes to see where or how far back the clock was located. The first hole drilled was closest to the house and water started coming out pretty good so that gave us a good feeling that the clog was atleast farther out. We dug up where everything was tied into the septic and found the issue. There is a 4&quot; pipe running from the lower floor bathroom toilet and a 1 1/2&quot; pipe from that bathrooms tub coming in at a sharp corner before tying into the 4&quot; drain pipe. The upstairs drain pipe is 3&quot; and also comes in with a sharp corner to the 4&quot; drain. What we want to do is retie everything going into the septic and eliminate these choke points. You can see in the pic where we drilled a hole in the 3&quot; pipe and this was a major part of the clog as tons of toilet paper snaked out once it was relieved. What would be a good option. The septic tank is just a couple feet to the right of the pic.<img src="http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd405/markandkristi/temporary_zps32866e88.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /></div>

<img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/PlumbingForum/~4/XAg-_Kso52A" height="1" width="1"/>]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.plumbingforums.com/forum/f2/">General Plumbing Help</category>
			<dc:creator>markandkristi</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.plumbingforums.com/forum/f2/trouble-bathroom-drains-4436/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Plumbing problems with home</title>
			<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/PlumbingForum/~3/iC09pTzdhsw/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 01:07:39 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello, my name is John and I am 31 years old. Recently my wife and I bought our second home in our home town so we could be closer to our families....</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello, my name is John and I am 31 years old. Recently my wife and I bought our second home in our home town so we could be closer to our families. Currently we are only able to work on the house on the weekends because we have to work where we currently live until the house is ready to live in. We plan to live in this house the rest of our life and we want to fix things right. I have always been a DIYer, but I have never faced plumbing issues on this scale. <br />
<br />
The house we bought was built in 1972. It sits on a 4&quot; slab which I think contains the original plumbing. I think there may have been plumbing repairs that were ran through the attic, but I have been unable to explore that area of the attic. I plan to get up their this weekend. The house has been empty for the past 3-4 years.<br />
<br />
I have attached two pictures of the hallway between the two bathrooms to show the plumbing set up for the bathrooms. I am new to plumbing, so please excuse me if I lack common plumbing knowledge. <br />
<br />
To the left is the master bath which has water flow from both hot and cold. The sink's flow is very light even with both hot and cold on. The shower seems to have a slightly stronger flow, but nothing to brag about. <br />
<br />
To the right, the toilet has good water flow, but the sink has ZERO. The hot water flows from the sink slightly better than the master's sink. The shower has the lightest cold water flow, but it is very light. hot water flows in shower, but noting to write hime about. <br />
<br />
Water pressure in the kitchen sink seems to be strongest but it is also the closest to the water source. <br />
<br />
Any help would be great.<br />
<br />
Thank you in advance,<br />
John</div>


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<img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/PlumbingForum/~4/iC09pTzdhsw" height="1" width="1"/>]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.plumbingforums.com/forum/f2/">General Plumbing Help</category>
			<dc:creator>Johnwaynesandw</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title>Shower drain flange in concrete slab</title>
			<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/PlumbingForum/~3/bi7qYRETvfI/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 22 May 2013 01:13:58 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>All, 
 
I hired a professional to relocate my shower and tub drain pipes that are set in the slab, with the intention of doing the rest of the job...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>All,<br />
<br />
I hired a professional to relocate my shower and tub drain pipes that are set in the slab, with the intention of doing the rest of the job myself.  Unfortunately, he didn't follow my instructions and set the drain flange directly into the slab when he re-poured the concrete.  Now I have a flange that is even with the rest of the slab.  My initial intent was to build up a screed bed about 1/2&quot; around the flange to create the sloped floor (which didn't exist in the builder-spec shower I'm replacing) for drainage, but now I'm wondering how to proceed.<br />
<br />
Am I correct in thinking that building up a mortar bed that tapers to nothing at the drain flange is a bad idea?  I'm worried that it will be too brittle, and regardless of what I use for an anti-fracture under my tile, I'll end up having to re-do it later like I originally planned.  I have the plumber visiting tomorrow to explain his thinking (and fix the other things he did wrong), so any advice would be appreciated!  Thanks,<br />
<br />
Costas</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.plumbingforums.com/forum/f9/">Showers and Tubs</category>
			<dc:creator>costasbrehm</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title>pressure tank issues</title>
			<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/PlumbingForum/~3/lT5PMSYvXtw/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 21 May 2013 17:24:16 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Facts: low pressure 20 psi. We had water logged pressure tank.   Changed tank. Water has not gone into tank. Still only 20 psi. Did not install check...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Facts: low pressure 20 psi. We had water logged pressure tank.   Changed tank. Water has not gone into tank. Still only 20 psi. Did not install check valve. We have a submersible pump. If I turn off power to pump pressure holds at 20.  If I leave power on but close the shut off valve after guage, pressure stays at 20.  Do you have any ideas? Should I have put in a check valve?  Thanks</div>

<img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/PlumbingForum/~4/lT5PMSYvXtw" height="1" width="1"/>]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.plumbingforums.com/forum/f2/">General Plumbing Help</category>
			<dc:creator>Truelight</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.plumbingforums.com/forum/f2/pressure-tank-issues-4432/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Need Help with Sewer Gas Problem</title>
			<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/PlumbingForum/~3/GgFC7yKKmZ4/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 21 May 2013 15:18:53 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[We have a really tough problem.  Had home built in 1985; we've lived here since.  Have never needed a plumber since.  Been on city vacuum sewer since...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>We have a really tough problem.  Had home built in 1985; we've lived here since.  Have never needed a plumber since.  Been on city vacuum sewer since 1985, changed to new city gravity in 2011, with oversized lift station built behind us, SE corner-700 feet or so away, manhole jutting out of our creek bank on the south side in line with garage door - about 300 feet away.  It's been hell since.  At first no odor control at all at the station or the manhole, they were pouring pure bleach into the manhole in the creek as a stop gap measure.  That was almost as bad as dealing with H2S.  Terrible odor on property and in house.  A lot of our property is low ground, flood plain.  City put two odor control systems...a vapex and chemical measures at the station.--we still have problems.  We bought cedar oil to diffuse, put charcoal filters on fans, insulated around doors, took fire place apart and insulated, put plastic and wood chips around garage door...odor greatly diminished but still coming in house...kept narrowing things down, we bought a gas meter and realized we have sewer gas coming in the basement where the pipe exits the wall in basement around the opening itself, can't find any problem with the pipe, and also odor, H2S?, methane? coming STRONGLY out of the plumbing exhaust on the roof.  The basement itself has no running water, no plumbing fixutres, no floor drains, just piping for the house above.  All fixtures in house operating properly with proper traps.  Basement gets worse smell in cold and rain, every week we have the problem.  Sometimes we have to have windows open when it's freezing out...or when it's raining, we had to do it when it was snowing.   Often it's hard to find a window to open that won't let more smell in.  At worst times, with no odor control, we've had so much sewer gas in the house many times it's made me shake, makes my thoat sore, makes me cough, has made me vomit.  I've seen my husband's skin look gray and he would cough constantly.  It's made us both sleepy at times.  Other times just really sick feeling.  We've been dealing wth this for 18 months, it's a LOT better but it still controls our life.  Never even a hint of odor on the old vacuumn system.  Constant problems on this new system.  It's a short route on an oversized station at this point, and we were added on at last minute and after State inspection.  I haven't found anything to say the road portion that connected us was ever inspected.  It's about 450 feet of pipe and several manholes.  A common comment on this new project by the construction team, was 'we're having to make it up as we go along.&quot; They went out of State approved specifications and moved a huge portion (600 plus feet) of force main to another property (above us between us and the school) at another level, where the approved design called for the lines to be laid in the same easement side by side.  I don't know if that has anything to do with our issues.   On the old vacuum system, there was a large plastic container in the ground, that acted as a water trap.  That was removed and thrown across the road in 2010, it is still there.  Now we are connected directly to the gravity line.  We are the only house on this side of the station, a large high school is next to us on the opposite side, and all the other homes connected are beyond the school.  We've reached the end of knowing what to do.  We have a three year old grandchild and another one the way.  We are trying to protect our family from this odor.  Is this forum a good place to find help with this?  Please help if you can.  Thanks, Kasey</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.plumbingforums.com/forum/f2/">General Plumbing Help</category>
			<dc:creator>kasey</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title>Septic Drainfield Question</title>
			<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/PlumbingForum/~3/q_SK_f_i7w8/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 21 May 2013 11:59:56 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I am new to this forum and would like to get some expert advice. If I do not explain things accurately, please forgive me. I just recently had my...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I am new to this forum and would like to get some expert advice. If I do not explain things accurately, please forgive me. I just recently had my drain field replaced. My drain field is the Bed type drain field. In my contract, the contractor stated that he would put Fiber Fabric on top of the stone before covering up with dirt. Instead of using the Fiber Fabric, which he called out in the contract, the contractor used Hay instead.<br />
<br />
My question is, what are the advantages and disadvantages of both the Hay and the Fiber Fabric? How long does the Hay last? How long does the Fiber Fabric last. Which one is better?<br />
<br />
Thank You in advance,<br />
<br />
Pat</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.plumbingforums.com/forum/f11/">Septic Tanks</category>
			<dc:creator>pmcguire4</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[3/4" L Copper To Pex Question]]></title>
			<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/PlumbingForum/~3/SSuDDUaV7xc/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 20 May 2013 13:30:43 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I want to join some 3/4 type L copper to some Pex tubing. The following are the id specs: 
 
3/4" Copper = 0.785" 
3/4" Pex = 0.677" 
1" Pex = ...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I want to join some 3/4 type L copper to some Pex tubing. The following are the id specs:<br />
<br />
3/4&quot; Copper = 0.785&quot;<br />
3/4&quot; Pex = 0.677&quot;<br />
1&quot; Pex =  0.863&quot;<br />
<br />
Based on the id specs, should I use 1&quot; Pex to maintain max potential flow rate?</div>

<img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/PlumbingForum/~4/SSuDDUaV7xc" height="1" width="1"/>]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.plumbingforums.com/forum/f2/">General Plumbing Help</category>
			<dc:creator>dlipter</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title>Help! Need help for overhauling shower faucet set.</title>
			<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/PlumbingForum/~3/xtnP8N3C8Q4/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 20 May 2013 04:42:37 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I am working on a three handle valve system for a bathtub. This comes from a 1930's co-op in DC. Most likely original to the building. 
 
Please see...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I am working on a three handle valve system for a bathtub. This comes from a 1930's co-op in DC. Most likely original to the building.<br />
<br />
Please see the many photos of the H/C valve and diverter I have posted here.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://s1158.photobucket.com/user/jmulla54/library/Faucet" target="_blank">http://s1158.photobucket.com/user/jmulla54/library/Faucet</a> <br />
<br />
One of the stems has a marking that appears to be &quot;Sterlin&quot; (&quot;Sterling&quot;?). The stems have 16 splines. <br />
<br />
Here are my questions:<br />
<ol style="list-style-type: decimal"><li>The stems look to be in OK shape. Is there a need to replace them? They don't turn very easily.</li>
<li>Is there something I can lubricate the valve with to make it easier to turn? Silicone?</li>
<li>Would it be easy to find the washers for these at a local HD, or will I have to go to a specialty store, or on-line?</li>
<li>Should I also replace the valve seats? Is there any need to put teflon tape or dope on the threads for the seats?</li>
<li>When I reinstall, should I use teflon tape or pipe dope?</li>
<li>Can I buy the escutcheons and sleeves separately? Source? </li>
</ol><br />
Thanks for your help! Much appreciated in advance.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.plumbingforums.com/forum/f9/">Showers and Tubs</category>
			<dc:creator>jmulla</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title>Water heater feed pipe shot. and now i have to replace my whole heater.</title>
			<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/PlumbingForum/~3/Lw0bRYKdFKs/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 20 May 2013 00:33:36 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I was trying to replace all of my plumbing to pex tubing with a viega manifold.  I wanted to replace the pipes in/out to the water heater because...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I was trying to replace all of my plumbing to pex tubing with a viega manifold.  I wanted to replace the pipes in/out to the water heater because they were only 1/2&quot; and one of the reasons for doing a manifold setup was to increase hot water flow. So i removed the screw on fitting the found the pipe is rotted away.  i tried to remove the pipe from the water heater but it is seized on there.  So now I need a water heater but I am not sure what would be best for me and my family.  We will be replacing a bradford white 50 gallon gas water heater.  I have 3 bathrooms and an in-law suite (so 2 kitchens also) and I want to make sure I get something that meets the demands of our family.  I am able to get the same heater but with a 40 gallon capacity for free brand new but I don't know if it will handle what we need.  My wife, 3 kids, myself and soon to be my mother in-law in the suite so I want to do the right thing.  Will a 40 gallon heater do the job or should I stay with the 50 or even go bigger?  any brands recommended or ones to stay away from?  sorry for the long rant.<br />
Thanks,<br />
    Chuck</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.plumbingforums.com/forum/f12/">Water Heaters and Softeners</category>
			<dc:creator>chucksrt</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title>Three sources, and water back-ups..</title>
			<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/PlumbingForum/~3/aXXdELNUoKQ/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 19 May 2013 22:54:57 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello everyone, 
 
I have a project going on down the street, and wanted to see if anyone may be able pin point the problem so i can go ahead fix....</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello everyone,<br />
<br />
I have a project going on down the street, and wanted to see if anyone may be able pin point the problem so i can go ahead fix. This is going to be done free of charge, as they're friends of mine. I went ahead and made a diagram the best i could in which it looks like..<br />
<br />
The problem.<br />
Every time someone uses the toilet, the water backs-up and comes out the shower drainage. Quite nasty, feces, and urine seeps through.<br />
Along with that, the toilet does not actually fully flush. Only a certain amount of waste actually makes it through at a time.<br />
Done used a plunger, in both the shower and toilet..<br />
<br />
When using shower, it takes awhile for the used water to actually drain into the sewage line.<br />
<br />
<br />
Besides this, in the kitchen..<br />
When you use both sides of the sink it will take awhile as well for the water to drain. Only if there's water in both sides at the same time. If there's water in one sink, it will drain just fine and dandy.<br />
<br />
My overall guess, is a poor plumbing install, just looks that way. However, if there's a fix, i would love to know.<br />
<br />
<br />
<img src="http://pictures.yahola.net/AlmeriaStProject.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
Any assistance, and input would be appreciated, thanks in advance.<br />
-Yahola Moore<br />
<a href="mailto:Jobs@Yahola.net">Jobs@Yahola.net</a></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.plumbingforums.com/forum/f2/">General Plumbing Help</category>
			<dc:creator>Yahola</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title>Copper NPT Thread Nicks</title>
			<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/PlumbingForum/~3/Q8TTZkSoFRA/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 19 May 2013 21:19:38 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Have some Nibco 604 3/4" copper NPT Male Adapters. Upon close inspection, I see some small nicks in the threaded portion. How perfect must the...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Have some Nibco 604 3/4&quot; copper NPT Male Adapters. Upon close inspection, I see some small nicks in the threaded portion. How perfect must the threads be to prevent leaks? Will the threads cold form and seal, correcting any small thread flaws?<br />
<br />
Thanks</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.plumbingforums.com/forum/f2/">General Plumbing Help</category>
			<dc:creator>dlipter</dc:creator>
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