Polka Dot Overload | Sewing, knitting & vintage projects, tips, tutorials and cartoons!

Inspiration: Pretty, Pretty Peplums!

2013-06-18T22:21:00.003-04:00

"Pretty Pretty Peplums" inspiration featuring a Modcloth striped dress and top and a Stop Staring dress

With the Cake Patterns Hummingbird Sew-Along humming along on day 2, it's time to cut my third Hummingbird top, and I was on the hunt for a little inspiration on what I might do differently this round. Man do I love a peplum...

You might guess I was leaning towards a dress version... maybe with stripes...

And I was. Until I remembered that my daughter's third birthday party is this weekend and I only have two actual sewing evenings before both my parents and my husband's mother and young cousin come to stay in our little apartment for several days...

So I think another top it is—probably View Blue, which has a deep wide neck, with a woven dickey and cuffs. (A little step towards making my first button-down shirt, but way less commitment!). Here's Steph's version for an example.

I'm doing mine in a nice chevron jersey from my recent trip to Mood:

And the dickey and cuffs in some scraps of sheerish black Swiss dot lawn from the Stash that Must Be Busted, left over from my self-drafted reversible shirred skirt:

I hope sheerness won't be an issue here... we shall see!

P.S. On another note, this just made my day. I have a bad case of laryngitis and have been very cranky about not being able to talk properly. I got home today and my husband had washed a recent fabric purchase (sorry, can't tell you what it's for! sssssssh!) and put it on my sewing cabinet with this little note:

Why yes, I think I will!

Sketchbook: Knit Franken-dress Ideas

2013-06-16T00:31:00.003-04:00

Not going to discuss the state of my sewing queue right now or all the things I WISH I had time to sew (Bonny and a Bombshell swimsuit and a Hummingbird flounce skirt and peplum dress and some Oliver + S for the little one and a top-secret project and my vintage patterns and... !).

But here are some ideas that have been bumping around my head and sketchbook for colorful Franken-patterned dresses I don't even have patterns for.

I love them both but am kinda leaning towards the second one (blue and green version) because color-blocking and flutter sleeves both rock my little sewing world.

Which one would you sew if you were me?

BlogLove Me Before It's Too Late!

2013-06-13T08:41:00.000-04:00

Just a quick note encouraging you all to follow my blog with Bloglovin' before Google Reader goes dark on July 1. (You needn't re-follow all your blogs individually, either—you can import subscriptions from other readers).

I know Bloglovin' has some bugs and is missing a few features—the ability to save posts to read later, for example--but I prefer it to the other options for one huge reason: it lets you read actual blog pages in their own design, the way they're meant to look... and it gives bloggers pageviews.

Why do pageviews matter? Many bloggers rely on people actually viewing their sites (instead of just the text and photos from a single post) to earn money from ads, sponsors, Etsy shops and links. When you read a post through something like Google Reader, that didn't count as a pageview. So every time you view an actual blog, or read it through Bloglovin', you are helping to support your favorite bloggers!

I don't make MUCH money from ads on this blog, but I have noticed since folks started switching over to Bloglovin' my pageviews have doubled (30,000/month average now). And instead of $10/month from Google Adsense, I'm seeing $30 or more. (That may not sound like much, but I live on a REALLY tight budget, and that's guilt-free money to spend on sewing and knitting supplies to blog about!)

So again—please follow me on Bloglovin'!

Have you all made the switch? Or are you going with a more Reader-esque option?

P.S. I believe this also marks the death of Google Friend Connect, which was linked to Google Reader and is being superseded by Google Plus? RIP, Friend Connect! I guess I'll remove it from my sidebar at some point...

P.P.S. If you are a blogger, even if you don't make the switch to reading blogs on Bloglovin', you should still claim your blog over there to have more control when people subscribe to you that way!

My 3 favorite sewing tools (that aren't actually sewing tools at all)

2013-06-12T07:30:00.000-04:00

The non-sewing tool I couldn't sew without: an LED headlamp

Good thing you all can't watch me while I'm actually sewing. Because when I'm attacking a pattern I generally look less like this:

And slightly more like this:

WPA poster from 1930s, click for more info

What can I say? I live in a poorly-lit NYC-sized apartment and I cut and sew on my dining table. A long time ago I did buy a lovely color-correcting Ottlite sewing lamp (similar to this desk one currently on 50% off sale), but I have no idea what happened to it.

And I don't need a light that sits in one spot—I need good sharp light EVERYWHERE when I'm, pressing, cutting, hand-sewing, embroidering and more.

So one day I got frustrated while trying to thread my serger (remember—always UNPLUG while threading and watch that KNIFE!), grabbed the LED headlight I use for camping...

And suddenly I, well, saw the light.

Now I always keep a headlamp in my little sewing cabinet and I'm fairly certain I swear at least 40% less while hemming, changing the presser foot or even unpicking dark stitches on dark fabric. Which brings me to:

My 3 favorite sewing tools that aren't sewing tools at all:

A good LED headlamp with long battery life for shining light on tricky sewing tasks. I use this bright red one but sometimes borrow my husband's boring gray one (I think it has stronger light power).
A roll of 1/2" double-sided mounting tape to use as a removable seam guide for even-width seams. (I can't use magnetic seam guides on my computerized machine).
Ceramic cups and bowls for pattern weights. I learned this from my grandmother Melba who once laughed when she saw me slowly pinning my pattern and fabric together before cutting. (As my mom put it "She scorned the use of pins... a few upside coffee cups on the pattern were enough.")
Of course you can buy nice colorful pattern weights or use big flat metal washers, but... I like my cups.

So: What's your favorite non-sewing sewing implement?

**Disclosure: Actions you take from some hyperlinks within this blog post may yield commissions for polkadotoverload.com (quite likely to be spent on more patterns, yarn or fabric for me to blog about!).

DONE: Short striped & piped Hummingbird skirt (Cake Patterns #0289)

2013-06-11T08:00:00.000-04:00

Until I made this skirt, I hadn't inserted an invisible zipper in EIGHT years. It's probably been just as long since I wore short skirts regularly, too—I got into a rut in 2005 when I decided all skirts MUST BE KNEE LENGTH.

But that is old news now because I LOVE my new Hummingbird Orange denim skirt AND I inserted the invisible zipper with no issues on the first try with help from a little video tutorial linked in the pattern.

But screw zippers. What I really love about this skirt is the fit. Which is, well, PERFECT.

And now that I have a perfect fitting woven skirt, it just emphasizes how ill-fitting most of my RTW woven skirts are—gaping at the back waist, droopy in the rear.

In fact, while wearing my Hummingbird peplum tops (and now the skirt) I've had a number of people spontaneously ask me "Did you lose weight?"

While the body image warrior in me wants to be cranky and ask why that should be a compliment, I do think it points to the perks of wearing well-fitting, flattering clothing. (And no, I haven't lost weight—in fact I've gained quite a bit thanks to oral steroids I had to take while I was ill. But thank you anyway.)

I also love:

The smartphone-sized panel pockets, just right for my so-old-it-can't-run-any-apps first generation Apple iPod Touch. Of course I lined my Hummingbird Orange pockets in, well orange:
My striped piped seams (try saying that five times fast)—they look like a dotted line! Yes I should have made them more even and no, I don't care. I cut 1 1/2" wide strips, pressed them in half, and basted them to one edge of the fabric (raw edges to raw edge) before stitching the seams:

Anyway, on to the juicy details:

The pattern: Cake Patterns Hummingbird Peplum Top and Straight Skirt 0289. (Disclosure: I draw illustrations and flats for Cake, but I don't get paid to sew, blog or otherwise promote Cake!)

Pattern Description: Hummingbird view "Orange" woven skirt with no gape panel pockets sized for smartphones, back zipper and simple straight waistband. Optional back flounce, aka Hummingbird "Pink". (There's also a knit top with sleeve and neckline variations and optional dickey and cuffs which I have made twice already.)

Pattern Sizing: Full hip sizes ranging from 35"-57", with waist size cut by actual size. I cut the size 40" with a 30" waist. (My full hips are 38.5" and my waist is 29").

There is a "fit check" step in the instructions where you baste the side seams to check and adjust fit, and I ended up taking in the waist by about 3/4" on each side (or 3" total), the hips about 1" (4" total) and the waistband about 3". This is mainly because I was working with a stretch woven—I think in a plain woven I would have taken out half that. After that, it fit PERFECTLY and I made no adjustments to the darts or anything else.

The skirt is designed for this side-seam adjustment, and can be taken in up to 1" on each piece (4" total) without distorting the pocket design. Here's a photo of me pinning the waist and hips in to fit—can you see the chalk and pins?

Fabric: All from the stash, aren't I a good girl?

Dark pinstriped black stretch denim I've had since high school—less than a yard.
Scraps of orange stretch cotton sateen for the pockets from a $1/yard FabricMart sale three years ago.
Bits of gray and white cotton/lycra blend knit, $6/yard from Spandex House a long time ago (also used for panties and my Tiramisu test top).

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I added flat knit piping to the front and waist seams to create a dotted line effect. If the piping hadn't been so uncooperative and shifty I would have gone all out and done the pockets and side seams too, as in this lovely Milly skirt.

Wear for: Work (with flats or boots) or weekend (though maybe not going down a slide on the playground or riding a bike?) and definitely for a date with the husband.

Successes:

My first invisible zipper in EIGHT years. Smooth and perfect!:
First time attempting flat piping—it totally works, even though it's not perfectly even.
Second waistband EVER. (I used a hook and eye closure).
First time sewing with stretch wovens. I used a small zigzag stitch (1 mm wide, 2 mm long) for most seams to prevent popping.

References used (in addition to instructions of course):

Marcy Tilton's The Easy Guide to Sewing Skirts. LOVE this very thorough book and the whole series.
Claire Schaefer's High-Fashion Sewing Secrets from the World's Best Designers. For piping instructions.
Sandra Betzina's More Fabric Savvy. For tips on sewing with stretch wovens.
Steph's invisible zipper video tutorial and straight waistband photo tutorial.

I can't wait to make my next pencil-style Hummingbird "Pink" with fancy back tailfeather flounce during the sewalong (join us! orange envelopes are in my House!), in a nubbly turquoise linen blend from ancient stash.

So, do you wear short skirts? How short is too short for work (or equivalent social settings?)

P.P.S. Notice the new red flats, after my agonized blog post on my search for bright and comfortable shoes? Little Z calls them my "Dorothy shoes!"

Yarn & Fabric Shopping Overload + 2 Cardigans in Progress

2013-06-09T08:00:00.000-04:00

Don't look at me like that, it was a birthday yarn shopping emergency!

Part 1: A Tale of Two Yarn Sprees

I've been TRYING to be a good little stash-buster. The first two tops I made last month were from the stash, as were my TARDIS socks AND the denim Hummingbird skirt I've almost completed.

And I deliberately chose the Delancey cardigan I'm knitting now to use up some lovely DK-weight merino I'd had lying around for over five years. Here's a progress shot (it is SO fun to knit, you start with two triangles and then join them to get the chevron effect going:)

But last weekend while riding the Bolt Bus to Boston with my husband and daughter, I reached into my purse for the Delancey AND IT WAS GONE (left at the office, thankfully, and not at the bus stop!). That meant two five hour bus rides WASTED and LACKING IN CARDIGANS.

Worst of all, it meant NO KNITTING on my BIRTHDAY, which was the following day. My husband came to the rescue, and gamely agreed to take me yarn shopping as a present.

Which is how, on my 33rd birthday, I ended up desperately pawing through the shelves of the...

Hub Mills yarn store (see photo at top) at the Classic Elite yarns distribution center in Billerica, Massachusetts.

When I was learning to knit in high school, Hub Mills (located in a scenic canal-side factory in downtown Lowell) was my Local Yarn Store, but although the new Billerica location isn't as nice, the yarns are still soft, colorful and yummy, there are lovely samples on display and the staff are super-helpful and knowledgeable. I came away with:

Yarn, needles and pattern to make a Baby Surprise Jacket for my niece-or-nephew to be. This is Classic Elite Liberty Wool, a super-soft machine washable variegated worsted yarn with lots of colors in each ball, ideal for baby clothes:

I've made a Baby Surprise Jacket before for my daughter, so knew it would be a quick fun bus-ride-worthy project.
Kim Hargreaves' Hearfelt: The Dark House Collection book of 21 patterns.

The book title is a bit over the top, but the patterns (see Ravelry for all of them) are just stunning (SO MANY PEPLUMS), so I'm not going to get too worked up.

My husband (man knows what I like) also got me a gift certificate to a local yarn store for Mother's Day. So today I went to:

La Casita Yarn Shop Café in Brooklyn.

This tiny little store and café/bar is just blocks from my home. It's jam-packed with all kinds of beautiful yarns from budget to super-fancy-expensive, some of them tucked into cookie jars and little baskets just to find space.

I especially love that they are so kid-friendly and even have kids' knitting classes and a kids' summer knitting camp. (I say this because I've had some unfortunate experiences with staff in another local yarn store that I won't name who were really rude to me and my daughter even though she hadn't touched a single skein).

Anyway, after some deliberation I bought:

Enough yarn for my NEXT cardigan, Cherry by Anna Bell.

I decided to make a candy pink Cherry, with a coral for the body and a slightly brighter fuschia for the ribbing and belt. The yarns shown are Sublime Baby Cashmere Merino Silk DK, a mostly merino superwash wool blend with a hint of cashmere and silk, and Filatura di Crosa Zara, a soft merino superwash. (I'm going to knit it extra-small to combat the growth properties of superwash).

Part 2: Mood Print Madness

Oh, and the fabric. Yeah. So I already have quite a bit of knit fabric, but I have a lot of summer tops and dress plans, and I'm getting a little sick of just solids, stripes and polka dots. So last month I went on a printed knit binge at Mood and got:

A lovely monochrome purple-and-white rose print rayon/lycra jersey:
Pink and purple chevrons! (also rayon/lycra jersey):

The print of pure color chaos... I'm thinking a sleeveless Jalie scarf-collar top (I know, AGAIN).
Not to mention the Hummingbird-esque fabric I used for my second Hummingbird top:
And for slight balance, some soft stretchy double-knit (or ponte?) RPL for a Bonny top:

Phew! Confession time over. I think I have a lot of stash-sewing in my future before I can justify setting foot in a yarn or fabric store any time soon...

Love Letter to a $4 Vintage Peplum Dress

2013-06-08T10:00:00.000-04:00

Dear $4 vintage dress,

We've been through a lot together in the past 12 years and you've always stuck by me. I remember the first time I saw you squeezed on the back of a rack in Cambridge's Garment District thrift store. I was running my hands across the rack looking for something bright and pink or orange, but your soft velvet burnout caught my attention.

And then there was your neat little 80s-does-40s peplum, and your adorable little front bow. And you know I can't resist a sweetheart neckline...

You were the perfect combination of structure and comfort, with your boned front bodice and your super-stretchy elastic shirred back. Really, you're everything I could want in a dress:

Thanks to that shirred back, you've survived many a closet purge over the years. My weight has gone up and down, but you almost ALWAYS fit.

You make me feel glamorous and put together and thrifty all at once. You've accompanied me to many a dance over the years, and even a Zombie Purim party (sorry about the fake blood, but it washed out):

Plus, even though I got you second-hand you were originally union made in the USA (thanks International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union!)

Anyway, I just wanted to say thanks for coming with me to my college reunion last weekend. It was my 33rd birthday and I was grumpy about spending it back at Harvard and I barely saw anyone I knew (that's what I get for taking a semester off and graduating with the class behind me!) and I soon realized why velvet dresses aren't generally worn on 90-degree summer days ... but I had so much fun getting dressed up and dancing with my husband in his rented tuxedo.

Love and kisses,
Mikhaela

P.S. You are so hard to photograph, dear dress—but that's the black velvet I suppose. Here you are in an overexposed shot for more clarity:

--Black velvet strapless sweetheart peplum dress, vintage--
--Fake pearl necklace my mom and I both wore to our weddings--
--Vaneli silver leather strappy sandals, bought for my wedding in 2007 (similar here)--
--Pleated silvery gray clutch, now covered in cranberry juice stains thanks to a drunken reunion attendee (similarish)--

**Disclosure: Actions you take from the ready-to-wear hyperlinks within this blog post may yield commissions for polkadotoverload.com (and quite likely spent on yarn or fabric).

Me Made May 2013: VICTORY (and Takeaways, Lessons, and/or Morals of the Story)

2013-06-07T07:00:00.000-04:00

Click my month of me-mades mosaic to enlarge. By a lot!

Readers, I did it. I started the month with just two skirts, two tops, one dress, one pair of trousers, one cardigan, two pairs of socks and three pairs of panties. And I only initially pledged to wear at least one me-made item four days per week.

Instead I wore something at least one me-made EVERY day for the entire month (sometimes as many as four or five in one day), and made three new tops, one new pair of socks and one "new" (refashioned) cardigan. I even had days when my daughter was also wearing her me-made dresses and sweaters as a bonus.

It was fun and inspiring but exhausting... and by day 31 I could not WAIT to wear some thrifted or vintage clothing as a little break.

Anyway... here I am at in my office on May 31 after the end of the work day, in my victorious final Me Made May outfit for the month:

Me-Mades (just one):
Hummingbird knit top by Cake Patterns with four-leaf clover peplum in polka dot ITY jersey.

Other:

bias striped knit skirt

Wurishofer 711 amazingly comfy leather "granny" sandals, red leather version

red coral necklace bought at Renegade Craft Fair ages ago, can't remember maker

pink cotton cardigan

I also had a little special post MMM day yesterday, actually. I was wearing my chartreuse Georgina cardigan and polka-dot ombré knit surplice dress and I got tons of unsolicited random compliments on both. A woman stopped me on the subway to ask me "Did you make that sweater? I LOVE IT!" and my boss asked me the same thing later.

Best of all, when I got home my toddler jumped up into my arms and squealed "Mommy, you're wearing the pretty green sweater you knit. I LOVE IT!" and kissed my cheek and then the sweater. (Girl really knows how to butter up her Mommy!)

Oh yeah... and a big thank you to Zoe of So Zo for all the inspiration!

**Disclosure: Actions you take from the ready-to-wear hyperlinks within this blog post may yield commissions for polkadotoverload.com (and quite likely spent on yarn or fabric).

Hummingbird Sewalong: I'm Head of Rufous House! (June 17 - 27)

2013-06-06T18:00:00.000-04:00

If you get an orange envelope in the mail, you've been sorted into my House!

It's pretty much no secret that I'm obsessed with the new Cake Patterns Hummingbird Separates—they were my favorite cover illustration to draw so far, and they are even more fun to sew and wear.

I've made the knit peplum top twice already (in B&W polka dot and an eye-searing bright print, and I'm almost done with my first Hummingbird skirt (in dark pinstriped denim with knit striped piping—will photograph this weekend as soon as I hem her up).

Naturally I jumped at the chance to be a Head of House (you get the reference, right? or are the hat and wand too subtle?), and I got Rufous—the orange envelope team.

The Hummingbird Sew-along starts June 17(days 1-5 for the top, days 6-10 for the skirt), and you can get your print or PDF patterns here, join the Flickr group for support and fitting help here, and find all the posts and blog badges here.

Here's a shipping update and more on the other distinguished Heads of House.

Let's get sewing! Are you in? The house with the most official Finished Hummingbird Objects when it's all done gets a lovely prize!

Brooklyn Sewcializing: Sewing Club & Colette Party!

2013-05-30T18:30:00.000-04:00

Brooklyn Sewing Club May 26 meet-up (L to R): Lee with Cabarita, Clio with ~~hippo~~ dragon friend, me and my Hummingbirds, Valerie in a Lisette skirt, Cindy and her watermelon socks, Nettie and her Tiny Pocket Tank/Meringue mashup, Liz w/ a Simplicity mock-wrap dress

Even in the darkest depths of my no-sewing-possible illness and fatigue, I tried whenever I wasn't super ill to make it to the monthly Brooklyn Sewing Club. Even when I had nothing to show during our latest projects go-round, I think it helped keep me grounded and hopeful and inspired.

But this time was WAY more fun because I actually had several finished objects to show off!

We had a little potluck feast... mostly cookies, fruit and tortilla chips. You know. Dinner. (Everyone was so awesome and carefully avoided bringing nut or sesame-containing products that would be dangerous for my daughter, and many people even brought specially allergy-safe items so she could eat them too!):

(That's little Z in the foreground eating a strawberry).

We did our usual go-round, shared our latest sewing and knitting projects and plans for upcoming makes. We also discussed sewing and fitting challenges, and I think next time we might do a more fitting-oriented session (it can be SO hard to fit yourself, especially in the back... I cannot count the number of times I have stuck myself with pins as a result).

Then there was a dive for the fabric and pattern swap piles—we hadn't done either in a while:

I think I gave away two pieces of fabric and four or five patterns, and I took home two of each. How fabulous is this Simplicity 1653 mock-wrap dress with flutter sleeves? And that blue and purple print knit p is just right for it, too!

The Butterick B5749 is also really cute but I've seen reviewers complain it is complicated to make and there are errors in the instructions. (But isn't this version by Rachel at Prismatoria AWESOME?)

Cocktails with Colette!

Also, a few weeks earlier, some members of the club went to the Colette Patterns cocktail party at Brooklyn General. Sadly I had no actual Colette to wear, but it was fun to see most everyone out and about in their best Macarons and Gingers and Laurels.

Here's Sarai in a lovely eyelet dress (and two fabulous women whose names I didn't catch):

Brooklyn Sewing Club members, including yours truly:

Oh look, it's Bright as a Button and GingerMakes:

Anyway, a lovely time was had by all, and the drinks were nearly as fancy as the pretty dresses!

And I'm actually not sew sure if I like the word "sewcial" or not, but I think I just need to give up being sew picky and embrace all the "sew" puns already. Ahem.

P.S. Speaking of sewcializing, I believe there's some big NYC meetup happening Saturday at Prospect Park in Brooklyn... but I'm going to be in Massachusetts celebrating my 33rd birthday and attending my 10th Harvard Reunion (in a $4 vintage strapless black velvet peplum dress, if you must know).

Brights and Prints Overload (Me Made May Week 4)

2013-05-29T21:38:00.001-04:00

I may be a week behind in getting up these blog posts, I may be tired, my photos may be degenerating and me-made-May posts may be the least commented on of all posts on this blog ... but I am NOT giving up on this challenge. SO THERE.

Day 20: Bright Green and Blue Day

Me-Mades (just one):

Jalie 2921 scarf-collar floral poly knit top

Other:

Thrifted J. Crew green cotton lawn polka-dot skirt (similarish style here)
Wurishofer 711 ridiculously comfortable granny sandals, black leather version

Day 21: A Little Sparkle

Who says sequins aren't daytime/work appropriate?

Me-Mades (just one):

Cake Patterns Tiramisu knit dress, adapted into a top

Other:

Sequined inset lined gored blue skirt
Turquoise necklace made by a dear friend
Some old Clarks leather sandals, super comfy (similaresque)

Day 22: A Peplum & a Circle Skirt

Here's my black & white polka dot Hummingbird peplum top again, this time with a big blue circle skirt (not me-made). I typically think of peplum tops as only going with pencil skirts and skinny jeans, but I see a lot of peplums and circle skirts in photos from the 50s, so trying a new silhouette! Think the skirt is maybe a bit long, though...

Me-Mades (two):

Hummingbird knit top by Cake Patterns with four-leaf clover peplum in polka dot ITY jersey.
TARDIS socks in blue, black and white merino wool (held in hands, near completion).

Other:

American Apparel blue circle skirt, awkward midi length — originally bought for TARDIS Halloween costume that never came to fruition
red coral necklace bought at Renegade Craft Fair ages ago, can't remember maker
The Sak orange leather handbag (the only handbag I own, so I wear it regardless of outfit color.)
Wurishofer 711 comfy granny sandals, red leather version

Day 23: Green and Purple Love

This is a bit of a cheat—I was sick most of the day, ended up working from home and didn't get dressed until 5:30 p.m. when I had to get my daughter from preschool. Those are my fabric and yarn drawers behind me—all six of them.

Me-Mades (two):

Self-drafted reversible shirred skirt.
Striped undies, not visible.

Other:

Surplice green and white printed knit top.
Turquoise necklace made by a dear friend.
Clarks Privo black leather Mary Jane flats scuffed to shreds over past 6 years but still going. (Super similar here).

Day 24: Scarves Upon Scarves

This colorblocked second-hand cardigan is actually really awesome, and in real life without a bad flash photo the flower rosette thingies do NOT look like pasties. Just saying. But I don't know if this silhouette really works for me.

Me-Mades (two):

Jalie Scarf-Collar top in red and cream polka dot knit
Monkey socks in kettle-dyed merino wool

Other:

Second-hand purple colorblocked cardigan from friend who was cleaning out closet
Pink silk rib knit lace-edge cami
Not Your Daughter's straight-legged black stretch jeans (Marilyn style)
Arcopedico Flower black leather Mary Jane cut-out flats

Day 25: TARDIS socks for a journey to the stars

Finished my TARDIS sock disaster just in time for a family outing to the American Museum of Natural History's Hayden Planetarium, where we saw "Journey to the Stars." (Toddler was scared sometimes but overall loved it and can't stop talking about how "stars are big hot balls of fire—don't touch!")

Me-Mades (3):

Georgina cardigan by Alexis Winslow in chartreuse hand-dyed Swans Island merino wool
Falling-down TARDIS socks.
striped underthings (not visible)

Other:

Not Your Daughter's straight-legged dark blue stretch jeans (Marilyn style)
Arcopedico Flower black leather Mary Jane cut-out flats

SO TIRED. But MUST GO ON!

Who else is still hanging in there for the challenge?

Hummingbird Peplum Top II: Hummingbird Colors

2013-05-27T22:44:00.000-04:00

A new Hummingbird joins the flock!

So the moment I saw this hummingbird-colored fabric, I just knew it had to be my second Hummingbird peplum top, to follow my first black & white version.

In fact, most of the time involved for this super-quick sewing project was in the cutting—I had to work REALLY carefully to make sure that none of the little round flower things ended up over either "bust apex."

The pattern: Cake Patterns Hummingbird Peplum Top and Straight Skirt 0289. (Hummingbird is shipping now in paper, by the way, or you can buy the top-only PDF for instant peplum gratification).

Fabric: Soft, stretchy and super light-weight rayon/spandex blend jersey from Mood. (I bought extra because I knew the large-scale print would be a challenge.) It doesn't have quite as crisp of a drape as my previous fabric, so the four-leaf clover effect is a bit lost.

It does catch the wind nicely, though:

Also, this fabric is so bright, it is scientifically impossible to be unhappy while wrapped in it.

Differences from version 1:

I used the second sized peplum length to make it a more comfortable top over jeans or any bottoms that don't sit at the natural waist. I like both lengths on me, however.
Since this fabric is so light and fluttery, I finished the sleeves with a magenta rolled hem edge on my serger for variation.
I shortened the back by a little over an inch around bust level (because the top length is sized by front waist length, you may need to do this if you are quite full-busted).

I love many things about this top, but I am most proud of the...

SMOOTH.

FLAT.

NECKBAND.

I don't think I've ever really managed this before. The key was to stretch the band quite a bit tauter over the most curved areas, and just moderately over the straighter areas (Threads has a fantastic video on this from Sarah Veblen, and this one is pretty great too). The topstitching Steph recommends in the instructions helps a lot as well—I did mine in pink.

I'm also pleased with myself for once again getting out of the apartment for a photoshoot—this time the courtyard of my apartment building. (I did worry that the neighbors were wondering what I was doing out there by myself with a tripod twirling around, but oh well.) No idea what those chalked numbers are there for.

Honestly, I feel like this neckband trick is life-changing. I have never really gotten any knit neck bindings to properly cooperate before—they tend to ripple and sag and wibble and wobble all over the place, which is one of the reasons I have made the Jalie scarf-collar top twice—no binding necessary.

In fact, I went to see the Star Trek movie with my husband last night and had trouble concentrating on the film because I kept touching my neckband to see if it was still lying flat and crisp—which it was.

What's your favorite tip for taming knits?

P.S. Full disclosure again, in case you've missed the million times I've mentioned it: I'm the envelope illustrator for Cake but I am NOT paid to sew or blog about Cake!

TARDIS sock disaster + swatching my Delancey cardigan

2013-05-26T21:08:00.000-04:00

It seems the Doctor and his TARDIS have landed on a planet populated by gigantic adorable toddlers...

Yeah, so, if you've watched any Doctor Who at all (latest episodes available on iTunes if you don't get BBC America), you know that the Doctor's time-traveling spaceship—aka the TARDIS for Time and Relative Dimension in Space—has a curious feature. On the outside it appears to be a small blue wooden British police call box...

But it's MUCH, MUCH bigger on the inside:

Which brings me to my TARDIS socks (full details here, including some mods I made), which, unfortunately are bigger on the OUTSIDE. See how they slouch and bag around the ankles?

They fit fine while I was knitting them (just the right amount of negative ease), but after I gave them a gentle bath, they started to grow...

And now they look good for a second when I tug them up...

But quickly slouch back into saggy baggy land within moments:

I really don't know what's going on here. I used a non-superwash 100% merino wool yarn, and knit them on the smallest sock needles I have (size 0). I've never had baggy socks before but they always had a bit of nylon in them, so maybe it's because these socks have no nylon content?

Anyway, all hope is not lost for my Time and Relative Dimension in Socks—the excellent Tech Knitting blog recommends a fix using elastic thread or an elastic garter at the top of the sock, so we'll see how that does!

Meanwhile, I swatched for my Delancey cardigan by Alexis Winslow. Here's the sketch (on bottom right) as you may remember from my Sweater Showdown decision post:

And here's my gauge swatch:

I'm using stash yarn, so my color scheme is based on what I have available. The main color is going to be the eggplant, and the sets of triple stripes will be in the gray, periwinkle and light purple. The aqua will be for the shawl collar and sleeve cuffs.

I'm going to knit a 33" bust size (even though my bust is 38.5") as I'm not getting exact gauge. I'm hoping it'll come out around 35", giving me 3.5" negative ease. I'd much rather it be a bit on the tight side than loose and slouchy (see my Not-Goldilocks and the Three Sweaters fitting post for more on this).

New Makes in the Mix (Me Made May Week 3)

2013-05-24T07:00:00.000-04:00

One of the awesomest things about Me Made May is that the sheer boredom of wearing the same few me-mades over and over again has forced me to finally get back into sewing and refashioning with a vengeance!

Last week I sewed not one, but TWO new tops. And my mind is just buzzing and humming with sewing plans, and the refashion pile is overflowing, and... yes! Thanks, 'So Zo.'

Day 12: Mother's Day

I nearly took a break from me-made-maying for Mother's Day, but just couldn't bear to give up so easily. So out came the Georgina, yet again!

Me-Mades (just one):

Georgina cardigan in chartreuse.

Other:

Sparkly striped surplice knit top, thrifted.
Not Your Daughter's Jeans Marilyn Straight Leg stretch jeans with natural waist (made in USA).
Privo by Clarks super-comfortable falling-apart purple Mary Jane sneaker flats I've worn to shreds over the last five or six years. (Similaresque here and here).

Day 13: Color Injection

So yes, I like orange. And chartreuse. I wish I could say I made this skirt, but I did not.

Me-Mades (2):

Jalie Scarf-Collar top the 2nd.
Georgina cardigan in chartreuse.

Other:

Orange scribble-print skirt.
Spanx reversible tights, the black side.
Chartreuse 40s-style ankle-strap heels from ages ago, by the defunct Gentle Souls (similarish by Miz Mooz).
Pink silk rib knit lace-edge cami

Day 14: A Taste of Cake

SEWING. FINALLY. Just a tester top for a dress, but wearable on its own, too.

Me-Mades (four):

Cake Patterns Tiramisu knit dress, adapted into a wearable muslin top version.
Vogue Elements 9745 wide-legged corduroy trousers
Waving Lace ombré knit socks
Not visible: striped undies in the same fabric as the top (shown flat here)

Other:

Arcopedico Flower leather Mary Jane cut-out flats in black.

Day 15: Flutter Sleeves

Here's my refashioned me-knit cardigan again—still slightly baggy, but I hesitate to slice into it again, so I'm going to go with this look for now.

Me-Mades (just one again):

Flutter-Sleeve Cardigan, me-knit and then me-refashioned.

Other:

Merrell "Angelic Peak" black leather near-knee-high flat boots (waterproof). The only flat knee-highish boots I've owned since 2009 and still going strong!
Polka dot knit top
BCBGMaxAzria knit pencil skirt, thrifted (similar on Ebay, or you can, you know, make one!)
Cheap plastic turquoise necklace
Daughter's hair clip

Day 16: Just the Underpinnings

Yeah, so I actually wore a RTW dress too, but I didn't photograph it. So. Homemade underpants, that was my contribution for the day.

Day 17: A Little Hummingbird Told Me

You are clearly already aware of how much I am loving this new me-made slice of Cake.

Me-Mades (one):

Hummingbird knit peplum top by Cake Patterns.

Other:

Not Your Daughter's Jeans Marilyn Straight Legs, high-waisted enough to rock a peplum.
Arcopedico Flower leather Mary Jane cut-out flats in black.
Hue polka dot socks.

Day 18: Dress for a Big Day

Me-Mades (two):

Polka dot ombré surplice knit dress (McCall's 6070 top, self-drafted half circle skirt bottom).
Georgina cardigan in chartreuse.

Other:

Spanx reversible tights, the black side.
Camper Kim Mary Jane heels in sturdy red leather.
Second Base Brittany demi lace cami (made in USA).

Whew! I have to admit, I'm starting to get a little exhausted mixing up my tiny collection of me-mades, and my photos are getting more random. I do have a skirt and another Hummingbird top I'm hoping to finish before the end of the month, though... we'll see!

Colorful Shoe Showdown: Which Comfy Yet Cute Flats to Buy?

2013-05-23T07:00:00.000-04:00

Sadly, reviewers say these adorable Miz Mooz chartreuse ballet flats smell so bad they cannot be worn.

Readers, can you help me? I have no colorful flat shoes and I'm really struggling to find some good ones. Please help my feet find their own happy comfortable rainbow... Why must I choose between comfort and color?

I realized this while trying to put together outfits for Me Made May. I've got one pair of flats in black, and two in brown, and they're all pretty much falling apart and a bit on the chunky side.

Mostly because I have some pretty strict criteria for shoes. I once broke the same foot twice in one year (the first time while pulling on boots... I lost my balance, fell over onto my foot and CRACK!), and I used to have to wear orthotics every day. Anyway: Here's a typical conversation in a shoe shop:

Mikhaela: Hi, I'm looking for some cute, comfortable well-made sturdy flats with really good arch support that can be walked in for long distances but don't make my size 10/11 feet look like boats.
Helpful salesperson: [searches store up and down, finally emerges with several promising pairs of black and brown shoes] We have these, our customers swear by them!
Mikhaela: Do they come in any other colors?
Helpful salesperson: Nope.
Mikhaela: [sighs deeply, leaves shop empty-handed, buys boring black shoes or buys colorful heels instead].

Most ballet flat styles don't work for me at all—I find the flat inside way more uncomfortable than even a low heel.

Anyway, my mom got me a gift certificate to Amazon for Mother's Day, and I was hoping to punch up my wardrobe with some eye-searing (or at least vaguely colorful) shoes and I am really struggling here. Readers, can you help?

Here are my current top contenders, but I'd also love suggestions if there are some brands of shoes that might fill in this gap. BUT ONLY IF THEY ARE COLORFUL, please. Red, blue, or chartreuse would be especially nice... Vintage-inspired is good, too.:

#1: Arcopedico Flower Flats in green leather.

Pros: I know they are really, really comfortable... because I own them in black.
Cons: On the pricey side, hard to say what shade of green they are (on some sites they look chartreuse, hurrah, but above they look puke-colored) and they are rather Frankenstein chunky.

#2: Clarks Aldea Tribe flats in Fuschia (or the Palm in Coral)

Pros: I trust Clarks to make comfortable shoes that I can wear into the ground over the years. And the flower detail is great.
Cons: Come on, is that REALLY fuschia? Seems kinda bland from the website image... My eyes aren't bleeding yet. Skeptical of the arch support with such a flat heel.

#3: Miz Mooz Delma ballet flats in a bright shade like aqua or chartreuse.

Pros: LOVE the color, and I have a pair of Miz Mooz heels that are on the walkable side.
Cons: May be too flat inside, and some reviewers have returned them complaining of an unbearable odor.

#4: Patagonia Women's Advocate Mary Jane flats in pink

Pros: Super bright, super cute. AND Patagonia is serious about workers' rights and environmental responsibility.
Cons: Some reviewers complain of poor support.

#5: Arcopedico Scala Mary Janes in red leather

Pros: Red! Comfortable? Less chunky than the Flowers?
Cons: Still kinda boat-like... my feet may float out to sea, and not sure if they're delicate enough to wear with a frilly dress.

#6: Keen Women's Sienna Mary Janes in various colorful fabrics

Pros: Colorful and presumably comfortable.
Cons: I know they put that big toe there to protect your feet, but... why couldn't it be a coordinating color with the shoe fabric? It's like a rubber duck is eating your toes.

#7: Ahnu Karma Flats in various not-very-bright colors

Pros: They look super comfortable and rather cute—I like the crossed straps.
Cons: The colors are all a bit faded, dark or granola-earthy, not BRIGHT BRIGHT BRIGHT.

Oh, wait! Lookee here... available in citron and orange (and recommended in a blog post on Already Pretty by Kirsten of barkingdogshoes.):

#8: Softwaves Wave Mary Janes in orange or citron. Had never heard of this company, but they seem ergonomically focused (and they make cute bright heels, too).

Pros: I'm seeing spots they're so bright. The ruching is cute, too! Plus: comfort?
Cons: Or is it cute (the ruching)?

I know it probably seems like I'm over-agonizing, but I walk EVERYWHERE, I need to chase after my toddler when necessary and I take the wishes of my poor, delicate twice-broken feet very seriously! And I'm on a super-tight budget, so I generally buy only one or two pairs of shoes per year (as my old shoes wear out).

Which would you buy, if you were me? OR do you have the inside track on something better?

Update... and now I just found these two Clarks styles I missed somehow... And you all have some great ideas in the comments for brands I had never even heard of ... My despair has now turned to indecision!

Clarks Poem Journal Flats in red—great reviews, too.

Clarks Artisan Aldea in cobalt bue

Final Update: What I actually bought! So I may later get one or two of the other styles pictured above or in the comments, but what I actually ended up buying was a bit random. I was trying to decide between the different options, when these Tsubo Aftenia fashion sneaker Mary Janes popped up as a suggested item... in red! For just $69:

I happen to have the exact same shoes in brown, and know they are comfortable as all get-out. There was one pair left in red, and it was my size (10) so ... done! For now, anyway. Amazon only has black or brown ones now, but you can still find them on eBay.

**Disclosure: Actions you take from the hyperlinks within this blog post may yield commissions for polkadotoverload.com (and quite likely spent on yarn or fabric).

Hello, Hummingbird (Cake Patterns peplum knit top, #0289)

2013-05-20T19:00:00.000-04:00

Instant peplum gratification—this little Hummingbird took maybe me two hours to sew up, INCLUDING basting it together first to check fit!

A properly fitting peplum (seam snug at the waist, skirt at the right length and proportion) is a thing of wonder. It can suggest an hourglass figure, or accentuate one that already exists. Even better if it's in a forgiving, comfortable knit and can be whipped up in a single evening for a quick sewing high!

My mother has actual live hummingbirds in her yard, but try as I might I could not get one to land on me for my photos!

The pattern: Cake Patterns Hummingbird Peplum Top and Straight Skirt 0289. It's shipping this week, in case you're wondering! (Full disclosure: I'm the envelope illustrator for Cake Patterns and I designed the envelope and instructions along with my husband ... but I only work with Steph because I love me some Cake, and I sewed this top on my own time!)

Pattern Description: Knit top with horseshoe-shaped neckline, cap- or elbow-length sleeves, and four-leaf-clover-shaped peplum with different length options and optional dickey and cuffs. (There's also a woven skirt which I haven't made yet). I made the top in View Green (cap sleeves, no dickey or cuffs).

Pattern Sizing: The top is sized for a 30-59 inch full bust, and is also customized by actual waist size and front waist length (to ensure the peplum sits exactly at the waist).

My full bust is 38.5", so I chose the full bust size 35, then selected my actual front waist (17") and waist (29") sizes. Thanks to this size magic, the bust and waist fit perfectly in front, no FBA needed!
For the peplum, I chose the 20s size (proportioned for waist sizes in the 20s range), which created a neat little peplum perfect for wear over skirts. I think next time I will make the slightly longer 30s range peplum, for extra length over jeans... though it works fine as is, too... here it is at work on Friday:

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Absolutely!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Again, rather surreal following along with my own illustrations (and Steph's instructions), but I find them quite clear and thorough if I do say so myself!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? My favorite part is the unique little four-leaf-clover-shaped peplum drape (in both front and back).

Fabric: Soft, light-weight black & white polka dot ITY jersey from Spandex House, leftover from making maternity tops some time back. Excellent stretch and recovery, and it drapes nicely for the peplum (which I did not hem, as this fabric is not prone to fraying).

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Zip. Nope. None. A first for me, really!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Oh yes and yes! I'm going to make my next version in true Hummingbird colors, I'm starting to get bored with all my monochromatic sewing I've been doing lately... this is a rayon-lycra knit I got at Mood last weekend:

Wear for: Everything all the time. Dress it up with a pencil skirt (like the matching Hummingbird skirt I'm working on now!), dress it down with some jeans. Also good for hanging out with bubble-blowing toddlers:

A final thought: You know, I was looking again at the tagline for Cake and it occurred to me why I jumped on board so enthusiastically when Steph approached me about working on the art and design. "Sewable wearable basics for busy women—always with pockets." (What she doesn't need to say there is that Cake Patterns are fun, vintage-inspired and figure-flattering, too!)

Well, that busy woman is me—I sewed this top after a long day of work, followed by a long evening of trying to get my toddler to do all her medical treatments and finally go to sleep ... I didn't start sewing til past 10, so didn't finish til past midnight. But the satisfaction of being able to wear it to work in the morning was so worth it!

P.S. For those of you who bought the pattern during the presale or since, and are wondering when you'll get your itchy hands on it... it's shipping this week, in big pretty green, pink, orange, and blue envelopes!

P.P.S. I'm feeling seriously pleased with myself for already sewing two tops and refashioning a cardigan this month–so good to get back to my machine after my ridiculously long hiatus!!!

P.P.P.S. In case you're wondering why my photos look so much better than usual, I was visiting my mom in Massachusetts... so I borrowed her porch and her Canon Rebel camera! She's promised to let me hold onto it a few weeks more, too.

Finished: Tiramisu Striped Top (Cake Patterns 0144)

2013-05-14T17:45:00.000-04:00

Striped Tiramisu top love! Don't you adore the directional striped neck and sleeve bands?

Oh, you know how it is... You wake up in the morning snuggled up in your handknit socks and striped me-made sleep bra and panty set. Then you pull on your Tiramisu top and your me-made corduroy wide-legs... just another day, right?

The pattern: Cake Patterns Tiramisu Dress 0144. (Full disclosure: I'm the envelope illustrator for Cake Patterns and I designed the envelope and instructions along with my husband ... but I began working with Cake BECAUSE I already thought what Steph was doing was so awesome.)

Pattern Description: Knit knee-length dress with front mock wrap neckline, cut-on sleeves, customizable midriff and half-circle skirt. (I left off the skirt for this test garment top version).

Pattern Sizing: The pattern is sized for a 30-50 inch high bust, 25-50 inch waist and has bust cup sizing A-D. My high bust is between 34 and 35" and my full bust is 38.5", so I initially chose to make a 35D.

After basting to check fit (as recommended in the pattern), I realized I should probably have chosen a size up instead of a size down ... so I tightened up the width and length of the front bodice pieces by quite a bit. Probably slightly too much (and I overdid the overlap, so it's somewhat more modest than intended), but this is a test garment, so I'm not about to unpick it now. (See Steph's underbust tune-up tutorial and video from the Tiramisu sew-along for more on how to do this).

Never mind my photo-bombing toddler... ("I love stripes Mommy!")

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Why yes, though as a top.

Were the instructions easy to follow? It was a rather surreal experience following along with my own illustrations (and Steph's instructions), but I find them quite clear and thorough if I do say so myself!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? It's such a flattering style on so many figure types, mine included. But my absolute FAVORITE thing is the stripe matching options... don't you love those striped sleeve bands and neck bands? AND the back chevron effect is some kind of awesome:

Fabric: Soft, medium-weight gray & white striped cotton-lycra blend jersey at $6/yard from Spandex House, leftover from making fun panties (which I'm actually wearing here, in case you're curious). It's very similar in weight/recovery to the much more expensive $15/yard fabric I'm going to use for the dress version.

Because of the stripes, I cut the pattern pieces out on a single layer to make extra-sure I aligned them with the stripe matching guide printed on the pattern. Cutting stripes on the fold can lead to stripey tears (ask me how I know).

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I left off the skirt, and extended the midriff band down and out to the hips a bit.

Construction notes: I made this on a mix of sewing machine and serger (now both repaired and working great) as recommended in the pattern instructions. I used a ballpoint twin needle for the hem.

My walking (aka dual feed) foot helped a lot in keeping the jersey from rippling out of shape and in pattern matching at the side seams—almost invisible, am I right?

There is a side seam there... but I can barely see it! Thanks walking foot.

Successes:

Stripes! Stripes! DIRECTIONAL stripes!
A perfect top to go with my wide-legged me-made Vogue 9745 trousers (shown at top).

Recommended Reading:

Tiramisu 30 Minutes a Day Sew-Along.

Room for improvement?:

When I make the dress I'll try cutting a different size for the front bodice—probably the 30D—and play with it a bit before sewing real seams. It's really a matter of personal ease preference.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Heck yeah and triple heck yeah.

Wear for: Work, weekend, pretty much anywhere.

Readers, it feels good to be sewing again after my long illness! And I can't wait to make the dress version... in red and white stripes, of course:

Then it's on to Hummingbird... and Bonny... and Pavlova... and... Cabarita... I think I need to clone myself! I have many other patterns in my queue but I've grown so attached to these after drawing them that I just need to bring them to life NOW.

Second Verse, Same as the First (Me Made Week 2)

2013-05-13T06:00:00.000-04:00

The good me-made news is that although I pledged to wear at least one me-made four times per week, I've actually been rocking the me-made lifestyle EVERY SINGLE DAY and managing to squeeze in a photo to boot.

The bad news is my photo poses are all boring and almost all in front of the same backdrop, and I barely have anything new to show you, but, yeah, whatever. So here we go!

Day 5: Warm Wooly Accessories

My husband was riding in the TD 5 Boro Bike Tour for Doctors Without Borders, so this outfit was all about this Doctors Without Borders T-shirt from an AIDS activism rally a few years ago. Since I was running out of me-made garments and it was super-chilly, I decided to stick to just accessories. Little Z had her Daddy's matching T-shirt and a me-made sweater.

Me-Mades (FOUR of them!):

Matching alpaca hat and cowl set: 18 Seconds Until Sunrise cabled earflap hat and Cherry Garcia cabled cowl.
Waving lace socks again.
Fetching mitts.
My daughter's striped Toddler Tomten Jacket.

Other:

Doctors Without Borders "TREAT AIDS = STOP THE VIRUS" T-shirt.
Not Your Daughter's Jeans Marilyn Straight Leg stretch jeans with natural waist (made in USA).
Arcopedico Flower leather Mary Jane cut-out flats in black.
Sprout eco-friendly purple watch made of Tyvek and corn plastic.

Day 6: Polka Dot Overload

I did mention I liked polka dots, right? And in case you're wondering what that odd yellow object is, it's the spacer for my daughter's daily steroid asthma inhaler.

One plus to Me-Made-May is that in order to look fancy for you all I'm wearing my heels much more often than usual... Otherwise I tend to fall into a rut and just wear the same comfy flats every day until they scuff away to nothingness.

Me-Mades (FOUR again!):

Jalie Scarf-Collar top the 2nd.
Georgina cardigan in chartreuse.
Brown and cream polka dot A-line skirt in cheap $2/yard poly fabric with petersham waist facing, made in 2005 pre-blog days and rather on the small side.
Striped Toddler Tomten Jacket made for my daughter.

Other:

Spanx reversible tights, the brown side. (Best opaque tights ever, seriously!)
Tsubo taupe leather comfy pumps with sturdy heel (similar and similarish).
Sprout eco-friendly purple watch made of Tyvek and corn plastic.
Pink silk rib knit lace-edge cami

Day 7: Black, White and Red All Over

The OTHER side of my reversible skirt from last week.

Me-Mades (just one):

Self-drafted reversible shirred skirt, the black swiss dot lawn side (originally a maternity skirt!)

Other:

Red coral necklace bought at Renegade Craft Fair, but can't remember the maker
Red silk rib-knit surplice top, thrifted
Black & white printed cardigan
Red belt from Stop Staring dress not currently fitting me
Fishnet-esque tights
Camper Kim Mary Janes in sturdy red leather.

Day 8: Rainy Day Outfit

I swear little Z isn't actually grumpy here, she was saying "soy cheese!"

I think this might be my favorite outfit of the week (with the possibly exception of the dress from Day 10).

Me-Mades (just one again):

Jalie 2921 scarf-collar floral poly knit top.

Other:

Merrell "Angelic Peak" black leather near-knee-high flat boots (waterproof). The only flat knee-highish boots I've owned since 2009 and still going strong!
Gray corduroy gored skirt with mermaid flounce, gift from my mom. I SO want to make my own version in every possible fabric...

Day 9: Cardigan Refashion

My first refashion for Me Made May!

Me-Mades (three):

Flutter-Sleeve Cardigan with a major refashion (tutorial and details here).
Waving Lace socks.
On my daughter: "A is for Apple" dress, now barely wearable and more of a little short tunic.

Other:

Turquoise necklace, made by my dear friend Márta as a birthday gift
Striped knit T-shirt
Not Your Daughter's Jeans Marilyn Straight Leg stretch jeans with natural waist (made in USA).
Arcopedico Flower leather Mary Jane cut-out flats in black.

Day 10: The Ombré Dress

I know you're sick of this dress, but until my Tiramisu one is complete, it's all I've got.

Me-Mades (one):

Polka dot ombré surplice knit dress (McCall's 6070 top, self-drafted half circle skirt bottom).

Other:

Second Base Brittany demi lace cami (made in USA).
Red beaded necklace, a gift from my mom
Worishofer Women's 711 Ankle-Strap Red Sandals (aka "granny sandals")

Day 11: Driven to Fabric Shopping Desperation

Why yes, this is a poorly-made maternity top from back in 2010, tucked in so you can't see how long/low it hangs in front. BUT at least I managed to get outside for a photo for once—I had just finished with a little printed-knit-seeking shopping excursion to Mood Fabrics with Lee.

Me-Mades (two):

Burda Magazina 02-2010-122 knit top, maternity-hacked by me
Brown and cream polka dot a-line skirt in cheap $2/yard poly fabric with a petersham waist facing... etc. Circa 2005. Never blogged.

Other:

Pink silk rib knit lace-edge cami
Privo by Clarks brown leather flats with sneaker-esque bottom (similarish)

So, if you even made it to the bottom of this post, which outfit do you like best?

**Disclosure: Actions you take from the ready-to-wear hyperlinks within this blog post may yield commissions for polkadotoverload.com (and quite likely spent on yarn or fabric).

Happy Mother's Day!

2013-05-12T10:15:00.001-04:00

Woke up deliciously late this morning to breakfast in bed prepared by my husband (with a gift certificate to a local yarn shop on the tray) and a beautiful card drawn by my daughter. I'm going to take the day off from Me Made May but I'm hoping to be back tomorrow with a brand new top to show off!

A lovely day to you all, mothers and not-mothers alike!

Sweater Surgery Success (Or How To Tighten Up a Baggy Sweater... With Your Sewing Machine!)

2013-05-09T22:38:00.000-04:00

I cut into my sweater with a big scary set of shears... and it lived to be worn again!

Few things are as terrifying for a knitter of delicate constitution as approaching a painstakingly handknit sweater with a sewing machine and a sharp pair of scissors. That delicate garment into which you've poured your knitting heart and soul—building it gently stitch by stitch over weeks, months, maybe years—could all unravel in a matter of moments if you muck it up.

Many knitters would rather frog the entire thing themselves and reknit it at a smaller size.

I am not one of those knitters.

Instead, I am here to tell you that Baggy Sweater Repair Surgery (BSRS) CAN be done—and to encourage you to make an attempt at refashioning before tossing your too-big knit (or using it for a car cozy).

DISCLAIMER: Polka Dot Overload is not in any way responsible for any sweater runs, tears, ravels or other yarn injuries, minor or major, that may result from the application of scissors or sewing machines to handknit garments.

Yes, I came. I saw. I altered a hand-knit sweater... by MACHINE (I'm serious, you can do that—Eunny Jang says so!). And here's how I did it:

Supplies & equipment used:

Unwearably baggy hand-knit sweater.
Sewing machine with zig-zag stitch function
Ballpoint needles for machine sewing
Thread to match sweater color
Thread in a contrast color for basting
Darning needle for hand basting
Sharp shears (I use these)
Pins

Step 1: Assess the Magnitude of the Problem. This is a somewhat risky surgical procedure, so I wouldn't necessarily advise performing it on a frequently worn sweater that is ALMOST perfect. It's probably best reserved for the most critical of unworn sweater cases.

Now I originally knit my Flutter Sleeve Cardigan to the correct gauge in a size 36" bust (that's 2.5" of negative ease). However, because the yarn was a cotton-silk blend, it bagged and stretched over time, so it was even a bit too big back when I was pregnant:

Which means I haven't worn it in THREE YEARS. An ideal candidate! (Plus I needed it for Me-Made-May.)

Step 2: Pin Out the Excess Ease. I tried my sweater on, and determined that the biggest issue was in the length over the bust—it had stretched out there by about five inches. I put the sweater on inside out, and carefully pinned out the excess ease over my shoulders while looking in the mirror:

I determined that I needed to take out about 5" total of length (seriously!) vertically, about 3" from the front shoulder and 2" from the back. I tapered this out to 0" at the end of my sleeves.

Note that some baggy, stretched-out sweaters may also warrant taking in at the sides (at the side seams if they exist, or by creating side seams if they don't). And baggy sweaters with set-in sleeves might even require removing the sleeves and sewing them back on—but be sure to secure with a few careful rounds of zig-zagging near any areas you plan to cut (zig-zag set to 0.5 mm width, 1.5 - 2 mm length).

Step 3: Even Out Your Alterations. I laid my sweater down flat and carefully adjusted the pins on each side for symmetry:

Step 4: Baste and Check Fit. There's really no going back once you sew into a handknit with a machine, so I wanted to make sure I was doing it right. Using white thread for contrast and a darning needle, I sewed a loose running stitch along the pin line, removed the pins and tried the sweater on again to be sure it fit (which it did!) At this point I also used my darning needle to close up the button holes quite a bit—they had stretched out so much the buttons were just falling out.

Step 5. Take a Deep Breath and Machine Sew it. VERY CAREFULLY. I sat down at my machine and very cautiously sewed a line of zig-zagging (0.5 mm zig-zag, with a 1.5 — 2 mm stitch length as recommended for sweater knits in my trusty copy of Sew Any Fabric) right next to my line of hand-basting stitches. Then I sewed a second line just for extra security. I made sure my stitches were well fixed at each edge, because even one unzig-zagged knit stitch could start a dropped stitch unraveling chain reaction of DOOM.

Step 6. Take an even DEEPER Breath and Cut Away the Excess. This part was hard. I kept checking and rechecking to make sure I wasn't cutting too close to the new seamline... EEEK:

And then moments later, it was all over:

I'm happy to report the sweater patient is recovering well and is quite wearable now, though still a bit less snug than I prefer. (And I'm still recovering quite well from my own actual surgery, as you can probably guess from the steep increase in activity on this blog).

I told you I was a RECKLESS sewist!

So tell me: would you ever sew and cut up a handknit — or would you rather reknit it from scratch?

Not-Goldilocks and the Three Sweaters, or How I Learned to Knit Something That Actually Fits

2013-05-09T08:16:00.000-04:00

"The first sweater she knit was MUCH too small..."

Once upon a time there was a girl who learned to knit. First she knit some very wonky scarves, then some somewhat better hats, then a set of fingerless mitts or two. She started out with 99 cent Red Heart super saver acrylic and eventually graduated to cotton and then wool, and some of her creations started to actually be wearable by her friends and family.

For many years scarves and hats and baby sweaters made her happy, but one day the girl realized she was so very cold and no amount of scarves and hats would warm her and she couldn't wear those baby sweaters herself, cute as they were. What she really needed was a nice cozy sweater of her very own...

But the first sweater she knit (see top) was much too SMALL. "I can't breathe!" she declared, and into the charity donation pile it went.

Her second sweater was far too BIG. "I'm drowning in saggy baggy yarn!" she cried and into the refashioning pile it went:

Eventually she learned a few lessons about ease and knitting and fiber choice and...

Her third sweater was JUST RIGHT.

And she lived happily ever after and never had any knitting fitting problems again! (Right? Right?)

So what's the magic secret to ensure a sweater you've labored and sweated over for months will actually fit when it's all blocked and sewn and finished up?

... Well, there isn't one. But I've learned over time there are a few ways you can give yourself a fighting chance!:

Pay close attention to gauge -- and wash that gauge swatch the way you would the final sweater. I used to always skip that step out of impatience, but with my Georgina cardigan I did things right and actually washed and BLOCKED swatches of both stockinette and the lace pattern to be absolutely certain my gauge was right-on:
Err slightly on the side of small. Negative ease is your friend. When I browse through finished sweaters on Ravelry, the number one issues I notice (and the main sweater issue my knitting friends seem to complain about) is too-baggy sweaters, like my second sweater above.
If, like me, you like a nicely fitted curve-hugging sweater, you'll want to knit to final measurements at LEAST an inch or two (but probably a bit more) smaller than your actual bust and waist so that your sweater stretches to fit. You want to aim for this effect:

And not this effect:

With my successful sweater, I knit it with about 2-3" of negative ease. As I was going along, several people asked if it was meant to be for my daughter because it looked rather tiny, but after a good block, she was JUST RIGHT.
That said, don't overcompensate for sizing issues. I made my first finished sweater (at top) from Stephanie Japel's excellent book Fitted Knits, which is chock full of great advice on, well, fitting your knits. (She also has a Craftsy class on fitting your knits, which I would suspect is excellent).
BUT... when I started knitting and tried it on, it was a little bit too big. So I decreased. And decreased. And decreased some more as I went. And... Yeah, I seriously overdid it. So don't do that. You've been warned. Being able to breathe is a good thing.
Choose a fiber with good recovery. Honestly, I think this was my biggest mistake with Sweater the First (knit in a cotton/tencel blend) and Sweater the Second (knit in a cotton/silk blend). Cotton and silk have very poor recovery and stretch and not so much elasticity and bag and sag over time.
Even if you knit an in-the-round cotton sweater that you can try on as you go, it's not really a good predictor of how it will actually fit once you start wearing it. So they require extra fitting care and even more in the way of negative ease.
Wool (and some of the nicer microfibers and acrylics if you must) on the other hand is plush and bouncy and springy and elastic. It tends to keep its shape and stretch with your body—but not too much. I've been wearing my Sweater the Third for weeks now, and it hasn't increased a bit in size. AMAZING.
Note that this is NOT necessarily true of machine-washable aka superwash wools, which have had some of their little prickly bits smoothed off chemically to prevent felting. I've read that many of these bag and grow quite a bit after wash and wear. I'd rather handwash my sweaters than suffer another Sweater Size Tragedy, so non-superwash wools are it for me!
(And for more on fiber and yarn choice, I cannot recommend Clara Parkes' fantastic book The Knitter's Book of Yarn: The Ultimate Guide to Choosing, Using, and Enjoying Yarn" highly enough.)

Phew! So what's your biggest knit fitting disaster?

Sweater Girl Showdown 2013: Which snug little cardigan to knit next?

2013-05-08T00:05:00.001-04:00

Cardigan indecision overload! Please. Help. Me.

As a knit-loving girl approaches the end of her second TARDIS sock, her thoughts naturally turn to... sweaters! Said girl will not dwell on the length of her Ravelry queue (though it might be said that even the most productive of knitters might take several lifetimes to complete it) but will instead look ahead to her very next project—another cardigan.

So... last time around I chose the Georgina in chartreuse.

This time I pondered knitting a serious vintage sweater pattern in tiny little fingering weight yarn from one of the A Stitch in Time books (both out of print but available as e-Books) (have you seen Laura Mae's beautiful Tri-Stitch Cable Jumper?!), but... I really need to bust my yarn stash, and the only yarn I actually have enough of is a big old pile of KnitPicks Merino Style DK weight in Eggplant (and a few other colors):

Six Top Contenders:

1. Faith peplum cardigan by Kim Hargreaves from Heartfelt: The Dark House Collection.

Pros: Peplum! Cool stitch pattern details! A lovely curve-hugging shape!
Cons: No instant gratification of a quick online purchase... would have to order this book used and wait for it to arrive. GASP. CANNOT DEAL. Not sure about the not-slim sleeves, either.

2. Peggy Sue Cardigan by Linda Wilgus from her website Wooly Mammoth Knits.

Pros: Such an adorable vintage style--I love the figure-hugging waist cables and the short sleeves. And it's free!
Cons: I'm not sure if it would look too prim on me when buttoned up. And I passed it over last time—there must have been a reason why?

3. Cityscape Cardigan by Laura Chau from Twist Collective.

Pros: Little colorwork buildings marching around my neck!
Cons: Eternal plain stockinette boredom knitting hell once the neck fun is all over.

4. Agatha by Andi Satterlund of Untangling Knots.

Pros: If Lladybird has knit MORE than one of these, it's got to be an AMAZINGLY fun sweater to knit, am I right? Lots of cool details and shaping and lacy fun.
Cons: It might emphasize how short-waisted I am?

5. Cherry by Anna Ball.

Pros: Sweet little vintage-esque cardigan with a cute stitch pattern and defined waist, almost peplum-esque but not quite.
Cons: Does it actually make any sense to knit a short-sleeved wool cardigan? (pattern suggests cotton, but I do NOT knit cotton after several bad experiences with baggy saggy sweaters of stretched-out misery).

5. Delancey Cardigan (shortened version) by Alexis Winslow from her website Knit Darling.

Pros: Um, hello. STRIPES. CHEVRONED STRIPES. Plus, plunging neckline. Plus, full with color patterning.
Cons: Same (amazing) designer as Georgina. Not branching out and trying new pattern designers.

I was super super indecisive when I drew all this up... but now that I look at it, I'm dithering between just two, with a strong inclination towards one of them... can you guess? Which cardigan would YOU knit if you were me?

Me Made May Week 1: Chartreuse, Polka Dots & a Reversible Skirt

2013-05-05T23:00:00.000-04:00

Day 1: Georgina & Jalie With Jeans

Me-Mades (FOUR of them!):

Jalie 2921 scarf-collar floral poly knit top
Georgina cardigan by Alexis Winslow in chartreuse someone-else-handdyed Swans Island merino wool
Waving Lace ombré knit socks, both me-made AND me-hand-dyed
Striped undies adapted from RTW

Other:

Not Your Daughter's Jeans Marilyn Straight Leg stretch jeans with natural waist (made in USA).
Arcopedico Flower leather Mary Jane cut-out flats in black, bought for 50% off a few years ago and worn constantly. These shoes may be chunky, but they are SERIOUSLY comfortable for walking around the city.

Day 2: Plum and Fuschia Reversible Skirt Overload

Me-Mades (just 1, but it's REVERSIBLE!):

Self-drafted reversible shirred skirt, the Maggy London geometric side. This was the only maternity item I sewed in 2010 that still fits me now at 35 pounds lighter. I don't wear it too often because it's a bit of an awkward length (having been designed to go under a preggo belly) and doesn't seem to work well with tucked-in tops.

Z-Made (by my 2-year-old daughter):

Colorful wooden beaded necklace. I love how she started out with just pink beads on one half, then got much more rainbow with it all. (Sorry, she's not taking commissions!)

Other:

Silver Charm surplice top (made in USA).
Fuschia silk rib-knit lace-edge cami, bought ages ago.
Camper pink leather sandal wedges, bought ages ago (similar cross-strap Campers here).

Day 3: Pink, Red and Polka Dot Overload

Me-Mades (1):

Polka dot ombré surplice knit dress (McCall's 6070 top, self-drafted half circle skirt bottom).

Other:

Pink lightweight cotton cardigan.
Second Base Brittany demi lace cami (made in USA). This is a really cool item that I'm sure you clever sewists could easily knock off if you don't want to buy one—it's a soft little cami that ends just below the bust with a band of picot lingerie elastic, and makes for a less bulky bra-cover-up under a dress than a full-length cami.
Red beaded necklace, a gift from my mom
Fishnet-esque tights
Camper Kim Mary Janes — sturdy heels in red leather... super comfortable even for decently long NYC walks.
Belt borrowed from my favorite 40s-style Stop Staring wiggle dress that is not fitting me at the moment. GRRR.

I finally got Z happily participating in the photo shoots. Her outfit isn't me-made, but she picked it out herself because she wanted to "match Mommy." She's wearing a second-hand colorblocked Hello Kitty dress hand-me-down courtesy of fellow Me-Made-May-er Lee of the Slow Steady. (Hurrah for hand-me-downs!)

Day 4: Jalie Redux in Red and Cream Polka Dots

Me-Mades (2):

Jalie Scarf-Collar top in red and cream polka dot knit.
Monkey socks by Cookie A in kettle-dyed magenta superwash merino from Knit Picks (never blogged, but pictured in this post).
Tardis sock the second, in progress (held, not worn).

Other:

Blue silk rib knit lace-edge cami (had forever)
Not Your Daughter's Marilyn Straight Leg stretch jeans at natural waist in black. Yes, you have now seen the entirety of my jean collection—two pairs! (All I need, really, and I've even made do with just one in the past. But some day I'd like to sew some colorful ones...)
Privo by Clarks super-comfortable falling-apart purple Mary Jane sneaker flats I've worn to shreds over the last five or six years. (Similaresque Privos here and here).

I'm happy with this outfit but pretty soon I'll be scraping the bottom of the me-made barrel since I have so few!

That's it so far—I'm doing my recaps through each Saturday.

Observations so far on Me Made May:

Wow, this is fun...addictive, even! The Flickr community is really fantastic and encouraging.
I originally pledged to wear at least 1 me-made just four days per week, but now that I'm in the thick of it, I may even aim for five or six days per week.
I'm sure you're sick of the sewing corner of my living room, but the only way I'm going to get a photo each day is by keeping the tripod all set up in one spot.
There's almost no distinction between work wear and weekend wear in my life.

Which outfit from Week 1 is your favorite?

**Disclosure: Actions you take from the ready-to-wear hyperlinks within this blog post may yield commissions for polkadotoverload.com (and quite likely spent on yarn or fabric).

In Progress: Tiramisu Top Muslin, Or the Over-Enthusiastic Bust Assessment

2013-05-04T15:19:00.000-04:00

My basted-together Tiramisu muslin: So I think I chose the wrong cup size, huh?

So I'm making the Cake Patterns Tiramisu dress (reprinting now and temporarily on presale for $12) in red and white stripes as part of my Spring Sewing Plan, but before I cut into my super-nice fabric, I figured I'd test it with some other leftover stripes from the stash.

For variety, I decided to make it as a top, since I wasn't worried about fitting the skirt. I just extended the midriff down (too far down, I think). and shaped it out for the hips.

In sewing, it is always a perilous thing to ignore your actual measurements in favor of half-remembered or wishful thinking or denial measurements. Numbers and letters are just that. Now, back when I was pregnant, and then nursing, I got REALLY good at making extreme bust adjustments (for F, G, H and even at one point, I). But I recently weaned my daughter and I think I need to wake up to the new reality of more subtle E-cup bust roomage needs.

Anyway, my high bust is 35" and my full bust is 38.5. So I chose the size 35 by high bust, which I'm pretty sure was correct since it fits well in the back (and how cool is that chevron effect?!):

But for the cup size I chose the D, which I now think was a mistake, since according to the cup size chart it creates a finished measurement of 39.5"... a whole inch of positive ease when I prefer at least an inch or two of negative ease.

Plans & Observations:

I think I'll recut the two front bodice pieces as the 35B, which should be a finished full bust measurement of 37" (1.5" negative ease) and should remove some of the front length, too.
I was so careful with pattern matching when I cut the midriff pieces and the back bodice pieces but totally forgot about the shoulders. Oh well! I'll be more careful with the dress version.
The length is bad—way too long. I'll chop at least a few inches off the bottom before I hem it.
It is SO weird to be sewing from instructions that I designed (along with my husband). WEIRD. I remember drawing some of those diagrams and now I am following them!

How would you fix this?

P.S. Update! Somehow despite being part of the Cake team, I missed Day 5 of the Tiramisu Sewalong series, which is completely dedicated to the issue of fitting the bodice of the Tiramisu and tuning up the underbust seam, with videos and step-by-step photos. So here it is!

P.S. Speaking of over-enthusiastic bust roomage, I tried to put on my silk Flutter-Sleeve Cardigan for Me Made May today and boy does it need a refashion... when I was knitting it I became convinced it needed bust shaping and did all these improvised short rows... and then it stretched out after wear... and NOW:

Quoted: On the Bangladesh Factory Collapse and Ethical Fashion

2013-05-03T09:00:00.000-04:00

"The sad part is that the price of individual garments would not have to go up much — 1 percent to 3 percent, various estimates say — to provide a living wage and safer conditions for all those cutting and stitching what we wear. The cycle could slow or even stop. But that 1 percent to 3 percent would have to wend all the way down that river of production — past the eddies and breakwaters of corporate boards and middlemen, subcontracting agents and compradors, to reach those who really need it.
It’s well past time for all of us to reflect on this cycle and how cheap it would be to break out of it if only there were enough public pressure on the apparel industry. The cost for us is minimal; the cost for others is great. Bargain-hunters at Wal-Mart and haute couture customers on Fifth Avenue alike should shame those companies that pass the savings on to us as they pass the suffering on to others we never see. This is not a remote or distant problem.
Take a look at the tag on your shirt. The problem is as close as your skin."
—M.T. Anderson, from "Clothed in Misery", a recent Opinion piece in the New York Times

Aftermath of the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire of 1911 (NYPL collection)

"These fashion companies and the entire American economy have formed a corrosive and now deadly reliance on cheap consumer goods. Corporations have persuaded consumers that cheap prices are fair. And this paradigm has hollowed out the middle class and led to the exploitation of both people and planet.
I am an impassioned advocate for small-scale, locally produced fashion. But where are the large fashion companies willing to take a risk and reinvent their brands around ethical fashion production? It’s time to trust that the consumer, all things being equal, will buy an ethically made product. We’re ready. It’s up to the brands to figure out how to do this and communicate it in a compelling way."
—Elizabeth Cline (author of Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion, reviewed by me here) on "The Case for Ethical Fashion" in The Nation

Children working in a North Carolina textile mill, part of a series on child labor by Lewis Hines taken between 1908-1912 (more here with original captions)

Recently, my mother called to tell me she had made a genealogy research breakthrough. She had finally managed to trace my great-great-great grandfather Thomas Marsh back to his childhood in England in a little town near Manchester...

...where the 1841 census shows him as a five-year old living in a textile factory workhouse with his 13-year-old sister. I imagine him something like the little children in the above photo—clambering up onto dangerous machinery, breathing in cotton fibers that scarred his growing lungs. (As a child growing up in Lowell, Massachusetts a "living monument to the dynamic story of the Industrial Revolution", such terrifying stories featured heavily in school field trips).

And then of course, there's the story of cotton in the American South. Tarantino's revenge fairytale spaghetti Western Django Unchained is full of vivid imagery, including close-ups of fluffy cotton bolls splattered in blood—it's a pretty apt visual metaphor, don't you think?

The story of the garment and fashion industries we often see and hear is a story about design, fun, creativity, innovation, genius designers, flashy runway shows and inspiring magazine spreads. But it is not often a story about ethics, respect for the rights, safety and livelihoods of garment workers, or environmental sustainability.

That story needs to be re-written. NOW. How do you think we can help?