Post-Lorax Project

Worcester Mag Article about WCBA and CCD

2012-08-31T22:14:00.000-04:00

A colony’s collapse

Local beekeepers help find a link between honey bee deaths and major pesticide

by Barbara Taormina

Story Created: Apr 18, 2012

Story Updated: Apr 30, 2012

During the break at the Worcester County Beekeepers Association’s Bee School, a seven-week course on beekeeping held in an amphitheater deep inside the maze that is UMass Medical School, Richard Callahan munches on a chocolate-chip cookie and talks bees.

As a retired entomologist, Callahan has a scientist’s affection for facts. He doesn’t speculate much, he just tells you politely what he’s observed, and what he’s learned. Callahan doesn’t look like a guy who is warming up to drop kick one of the world’s largest chemical corporations, but it could happen.

(PHOTO: Worcester County beekeeper
Ken Warchol creates smoke near honeybee hives at Harvard University. Steven King/Worcester Mag)

Callahan and fellow Worcester County beekeeper Ken Warchol have been working with Chensheng (Alex) Lu, professor of environmental exposure biology at Harvard’s School of Public Health, on a study on colony collapse disorder, or CCD, the name used to describe the ongoing worldwide die off of honey bees.
Since 2006, North American beekeepers have been losing huge numbers of bee hives to CCD. Estimates of those losses range from 30 to 90 percent of hives.

In cases of CCD, bees don’t roll over and die. Worker bees abandon their hives, leaving the queen and brood unprotected and uncared for as they fly out to their deaths.

CCD represents a stunning break in the behavioral pattern of an insect of which every other nanosecond of life is genetically programmed with aweinspiring precision. And it’s been deeply troubling for beekeepers and others who respect and revere this insect.

But CCD is really everyone’s worry, even people who aren’t fascinated by bees and those who choose processed sugar over honey every time.

(PHOTO: Ken Warchol lectures at the Worcester County Beekeepers Association's Bee School. Steven King/Worcester Mag)

As Lu mentioned to the Worcester Beekeepers last February when he presented the results of the study to the group, honey bees are responsible for the pollination of more than 100 different food crops. Fewer and fewer bees means thinner and thinner yields of all sorts of fruits, vegetables, nuts and livestock feed.

“Around here, you’re talking about apples, blueberries and cranberries,” says Norman Mercier, president of the Worcester Beekeepers Association. “Some commercial farmers have gone out of business because of CCD.”

People have different ideas on what’s causing the collapse of honey bee hives. Some research has targeted mites, other studies have blamed fungus, and some suspect malnutrition, weakened immune systems and other types of stress.

But Lu, Callahan and Warchol are part of a growing group of researchers who have linked CCD to imidacloprid, one of the most commonly used pesticides in commercial agriculture, back-yard gardens, lawns and landscaping.

And while they weren’t surprised to find a convincing link between CCD and imidacloprid, what did catch them a little off guard was the way it worked.

“We used such a small amount,” explains Callahan. “It was a half milligram over a nine-week period.
Lu, Callahan and Warchol set up five hives in four different locations, including Warchol’s home in Northbridge. From July to September, four of the hives in each group were treated with different amounts of the pesticide, while the fifth was not.

(PHOTO: A honeybee is seen at a hive. Steven King/Worcester Mag)

The idea was to give the bees the amounts of pesticide they would naturally pick up from the surrounding environment as they collect nectar from different plants. The study also suggests that bees ingest imidacloprid through the high-fructose corn syrup that beekeepers often use to feed their hives. According to Lu, the corn which is treated with the pesticide retains some of the chemical’s residue even as it is processed into corn syrup.

“We kept thinking we would see some toxicity, but nothing happened,” reports Callahan.
In his presentation to the Worcester beekeepers, Lu admitted that by early December he thought the study was a bust and that they had failed to show a link between CCD and imidacloprid. But then, around Christmastime, the research team lost three hives. Then three more were abandoned.

“It was so strange to find the hives so quiet and still,” recalls Callahan.

Ultimately, 15 of the 16 hives treated with the pesticide, or 94 percent, died while only one of the four untreated or control hives was abandoned. And both Lu and Callahan say that the hives in the study were like hives that have been hot with CCD. Food and pollen was left behind with younger bees and the queen. When hives are affected by pathogens or other toxic or risky conditions, nothing survives.

“The result is very convincing,” Lu told the Worcester beekeepers. “It’s really obvious that it is really just the pesticide that is killing the bees.”

But even if they had set up a hundred hives and recorded the same results, it may still be difficult to save the bees.

“We are fighting against a giant pesticide manufacturer with billions of dollars on the line,” says Lu.

PICK YOUR POISON

The study of Worcester County bees is slated to be published in the June issue of the Bulletin of Insectology. However, earlier this month the Harvard School of Public Health issued a press release announcing the results.

And the giant pesticide manufacturer, Bayer CropScience, didn’t waste any time with its response.

Bayer called the study “seriously flawed” and “factually inaccurate.” Among the company’s complaints are the amounts of pesticide that Lu, Callahan and Warchol used to treat the hives, amounts Bayer CropScience argues are much higher than what bees would encounter in nature.

According to Lu, however, the study involved amounts below those normally found in the environment.

The company’s quick reaction is surprising considering this is the fourth study this year to link this type of pesticide to CCD.

Imidacloprid is part of a family of pesticides called neonicotinoids. Chemically similar to nicotine, neonicotinoids ravage the central nervous systems of insects causing paralysis and death.

Neonicotinoids are systemic. They are absorbed by the entire plant and the residue of the chemical lingers. But neonicotinoids are considered far less toxic to mammals than earlier types of pesticides. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency rates neonicotinoids as class II or class III for toxicity, which means products that contain these chemicals do not have to be packaged with decorative skulls and crossbones.

Instead manufacturers of chemicals that fall into class II and class III only have to inform consumers that their products are moderately toxic. They may be harmful or fatal if swallowed, but then again they may not be.

Neonicotinoids have not raised any major or direct concerns for human health, and Callahan stressed that point at a recent Bee School class.

“Our data isn’t alarming as far as humans are concerned,” he points outs.

But bees are another matter. In January, a research team at Purdue University found neonicotinoid pesticides were present in dead and dying bees in hives in Indiana. High levels of clothianidin and thiamethoxam, two neonicotinoid pesticides that are used to coat corn and soybean seeds before planting, were found in waste dust in fields.

“We know that these insecticides are highly toxic to bees; we found them in each sample of dead and dying bees,” reports Christian Krupke, associate professor of entomology at Purdue University, in a press release announcing the results of the study.

In March, a French research team released the results of their study which involved gluing tiny radio transmitters on the backs of honey bees and then feeding some of them nonlethal doses of the neonicotinoid pesticide, thiamethoxam.

(PHOTO: Honeybees on a hive at Harvard University. Steven King/Worcester Mag)

Researchers then released the bees one kilometer away from the hive. A significant number of bees who were fed the neonicotinoid were unable to find their way back to the hive.

Last month, a British study published in Science offered evidence of a link between imidacloprid and slow colony growth among bumble bees.

And that’s just 2012. With the mounting evidence linking CCD to neonicotinoids, it’s difficult to understand why the EPA would approve and then register these chemicals for such widespread use.

Or maybe it’s not so difficult. On the EPA website, in the section that describes pesticides, is a link for frequently asked questions. One of the questions listed is: “Why does EPA rely on studies submitted from pesticide companies when the Agency is considering whether or not to register a pesticide? Shouldn’t the government be performing independent studies?”

According to the EPA, it comes down to resources. But the agency says it issues guidelines to companies testing their own products, and it also carefully reviews the submitted studies.

No doubt; but in 2003, when EPA conditionally approved clothianidin, a newer sister pesticide to the one tested in the Worcester county study, it was with the understanding that Bayer CropScience would conduct additional testing. And it did.

But when the EPA’s own scientists generated a memo, declaring that Bayer’s follow-up study was poorly designed, and that they believed clothianidin was a dangerous toxin for honey bees, the memo was ignored.

And sadly for the EPA, it was also leaked to the public. Last month more than one million bee keepers and environmental groups petitioned the EPA to suspend the sale and use of clothianidin.

PHOTO: Worcester County beekeeper
Ken Warchol, left, and retired entomologist Richard Callahan examine honeybee hives at Harvard
University. Steven King/Worcester Mag)

Since CCD has emerged as a global concern, the enrollment at Bee School has soared. Mercier, who was a member of the beekeepers association for just six years before stepping into the role of president, says more than 200 individuals and couples are enrolled in this year’s course. And the group encompasses all ages, all occupations and all levels of education.

“When CCD appeared, it made people aware of how important bees really are,” says Mercier.
But once they discover bees, beekeepers stick with them for a variety of reasons. Stephanie Stanton, a new beekeeper from Clinton, likes the pace of tending bees.

“It really makes you slow down,” she explains. “You can’t do it quickly. You have to be persistent and patient.”

Others find beekeeping makes them more observant and more tuned into changes in the environment. And for others like Roger Trahan, beekeeping and launching a small honey business was something he found he could share and enjoy with his daughter.

Holden resident Barbara MacPhee, secretary for the Worcester County Beekeepers, has lived through a lot of changes in the beekeeping community.

“When I first started 36 years ago, bee keeping was a man’s world,” recalls MacPhee. “Now it’s everybody from all walks of life.”

Like other beekeepers, MacPhee is fascinated by the order of a hive and the commitment of the bees.

“I am in awe of how they know exactly what to do and exactly when to do it,” she notes. “I’m just there to manage them and to keep them happy.”

(PHOTO: Worcester County beekeeper
Ken Warchol, left, and retired
entomologist Richard Callahan examines honeybee hives at Harvard
University.)

MacPhee also says there’s a kindness and camaraderie among beekeepers that’s not often seen among other groups of hobbyists.

“Beekeepers are very caring toward one another,” she shares. “They will go to any extent to help out another beekeeper.”

Although MacPhee doesn’t doubt that pesticides are responsible for CCD, her bees are involved in yet another study by the U.S. Dept. of Agriculture.
Mercier says because the Worcester County Beekeepers Association is the oldest and largest county beekeeping organization in the United States, national experts come to Worcester to research problems and issues with bees. And the group is convinced their members have cracked the case of CCD, if people would just pay attention.

But MacPhee, who has been part of the push to educate people about the value of bees, has seen a lot of positive change already.

“About 10 years ago, I started bringing beekeeping into the schools. Kids were just like their parents; they saw a bee and their first reaction was to kill it,” she remembers. But, MacPhee reports, because of this education through the media and schools, that attitude has totally changed.

“Today, children really understand the importance of bees and the role they play,” she says.

From Worcester Mag

Bee Sugar Candy for Winter Feeding

2012-08-31T22:07:00.002-04:00

Bee Sugar Candy
by Armand Provost

for winter feeding of your bees

Makes about 14 8¾” pie plates

Ingredients

15 lbs sugar
3 bottles Karo syrup
¼ teaspoon cream of tartar
4 cups water

Directions

Heat to 240 degrees (soft ball stage)
Cool to 180 degrees
Stir vigorously
Pour into containers
It should be hardened and ready for use in 2-3 hours

Lessons in Bees: The Tid-Bits that Make a Difference

2012-08-31T22:02:00.002-04:00

I read that I should provide a source of water for my bees. So I cleaned out a bird bath and put it next to the hive. When I observed them I noticed they never drank from the bath. Instead they drank from puddles in the mud near the plants I was growing.

I began to wonder why they shunned the clean water I was providing. At first I thought the bees were drowning in the bird bath. This prompted me to put stones with a gradual slope in the bird bath so the bees could easily get to the water without drowning.

But they still preferred the water from puddles after it rained. This became problematic when we experienced drought in the middle of this summer. The soil was parched and there was no rain in sight.

Then I talked to a local bee expert, Ken Warchol, who has been keeping bees since he was 5 years old (he is now over well over 50). Ken informed me that the bees prefer the minerals in water puddled up above the soil. He recommended I put dirt in the bird bath with the water.

Worcester's Solidarity and Green Economy (SAGE)

2012-08-30T23:24:00.002-04:00

http://www.worcestersagealliance.org/

Jill Stein has my vote!

2012-08-30T22:31:00.003-04:00

Post Lorax Thought of the Day

2012-08-26T11:43:00.002-04:00

I think when scientists or renewable energy aficionados say things like, "it's actually very simple. If we reduce our consumption of so and so or convert this gizmo to that gizmo, we will cut our carbon dioxide output by so and so percent. If you combine the impact of that it's like removing all cars from American roads for 10 years," (<-- generic quote) it gives the public a GROSS sense of false security about the HUGE change necessary to deal with climate change.

I feel it allows people to sit back and say, "oh. Well if that's all it takes, then it must not be THAT dire of an issue. The experts and technology are bound to figure things out." And go on living their lives not realizing the DEEP, INHERENT complexity of the issue; Not realizing that technology WILL NOT save us. That we are buried so deep in a hole that the rope ladder technology drops down to save us is 10 feet too short.

Jamie Oliver's TED Prize wish: Teach every child about food

2012-08-26T10:37:00.001-04:00

Incorrigible Forageables: Red Clover

2012-08-21T10:54:00.001-04:00

Red Clover is one of the ultimate wild plants for women's health. Red Clover contains isoflavones that act as phytoestrogens (water-soluble plant chemicals that act like the female hormone estrogen). Traditionally, red clover is used to treat respiratory ailments (Bronchitis and Asthma), heart disease, and skin disorders as well as women's reproductive health issues.

Women's Benefits:
Red Clover tea may help relieve PMS symptoms. The isoflavones can help regulate estrogen that contribute to fat, which means it is a way to help reduce excess fat. It may slow bone loss, aiding in the prevention osteoporosis.

For women with normal estrogen levels, red clover isoflavones may displace some natural estrogen from attaching to estrogen receptors, possibly preventing or relieving estrogen-related symptoms, such as breast pain, associated with PMS. (Herb Wisdom)

Heart Disease:
Red clover may lower the levels of 'bad' low-density lipoprotein cholesterol (LDL) and raise the levels of 'good' high-density lipoprotein (HDL) cholesterol in the body.

Red Clover contains small amounts of coumarins, the precursor to the anticoagulant dicoumarin which act as slight blood thinners. There is a small possibility that red clover may be linked to preventing blood clots and arterial plaques for this reason.

Skin Disease:
Red Clover ointments can be spread on the skin to relieve skin rashes, inflammation, eczema and psoriasis symptoms, and irritations.

Red clover is a rich source of calcium, chromium, magnesium, niacin, phosphorous, potassium, thiamine and vitamin C. (Herb Wisdom)

With all that said, moderation is always key. High dosages of red clover consumption may be harmful and may be linked to an increase in miscarriages and infertility. Also, I am not an expert, doctor or professional herbalist. Make sure any red clover you are consuming is not coming from a source exposed to any sprays or chemicals!

Red Clover Tea

Add 1 Tablespoon of dried or fresh red clover blossoms to a cup of hot water or add 1 cup of the blossoms to 4 cups boiled water.
Let the flowers steep for about 10 minutes with about 2 Tablespoons of mint (2 Tbsp for 4 cups)
Add Honey to taste

Red Clover Iced Tea

Steep 2 black tea bags in 6 cups boiled water. Then chill.
Add 1 cup of red clover blossoms mixed with 2 Tablespoons fresh mint sprigs
Add Honey and ice and enjoy!

Incorrigible Forageables: Wild Chamomile

2012-08-21T09:46:00.002-04:00

Iced Chamomile Tea

Place chamomile in boiling water or pour boiled water over chamomile flowers and leaves.
Let steep about 5 minutes
Add LOTS of ice
add a bit of local honey to taste.

Internal Uses:

Mild Sedative
Calms stomach spasms caused by gastritis and colitis
Helps rid-of or prevent diarrhea and other intestinal related issues
Helps with liver problems
Encourages sweating, which helps with lowering a fever
Relieves headache pain
Can be beneficial for babies with colic
Calms or prevents menstruation pains

External Uses:

Calms red and inflamed skin
Liquid feed and plant tonic effective against plant diseases
You can add Chamomile to your shampoo and/or conditioner. It helps add a silky look to your hair while strengthening your roots.
Dried flowers can be used as an insect repellent
Stuffy nose: breathe in the steam from boiling Chamomile in water to clear out your sinus system.

http://www.simplysetup.com/simple-living-2/wild-chamomile-finding-identifying-and-using.html

Incorrigible Forageables: Wild Grape Leaves

2012-08-21T09:45:00.005-04:00

When harvesting, make sure to gather the young, tender, green leaves. The older leaves are woody and fibrous.

Here's a fun fact about grape leaves: historically they have been added to pickle jars to keep the pickled items crispy! Grape leaves produce a lot of tannins which serve this purpose! Make sure any high-tannin leaf you are using for this is NOT sprayed with any chemicals or pesticides.

Stuffed Wild Grape Leaves - the recipe is time intensive, but you can make them in a huge batch and freeze the rest. Recipe from http://www.keyingredient.com/recipes/105403/stuffed-wild-grape-leaves/

Yields: 6 servings
Ingredients

6 dozen grape leaves rinsed.
2 C leftover rice
1 lb hamburger
1 minced onion
6 cloves of garlic minced
½ C chopped pecans
1 handful plantain chopped (this is a wild green, you could substitute swiss chard or spinach)
2 TB lemon juice
salt
pepper

Directions

Preparing the Leaves. Young leaves are best. Choose leaves that are bright green, and about as large as a woman’s hand.
Rinse leaves and then bring a pot of water with 1 tsp salt to boil. Add leaves and boil a few minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water.
The Stuffing - Brown hamburger with onion and garlic. Drain if needed. Add salt, pepper, and nuts. Cook a few more minutes. Mix with remaining ingredients. Allow to cool.
Place the leaf stem side up. Put about 1 TB of stuffing on near the stem end. Fold the sides in and roll tightly, and place in a shallow baking dish.
The rolls can simply be brushed with olive oil or baked with about a cup of tomato sauce or water. I prefer them baked with tomato sauce.
Bake at 300 F for 50 minutes.

Incorrigible Forageables: Burdock

2012-08-21T09:45:00.001-04:00

Burdock is a pretty tenacious plant! It's the plant that shoots up seed burs that are practically impossible to pull off of your furry dog (especially if her name is Sandy, who has a conniption every time. So I end up having to just cut her fur instead).

Every part of the plant (leaves, stems and roots) are useful, but it is the root that is most sought after. It is also the root that is the hardest to access. Let's just say you want to have some serious digging shovels handy and a strong back to pull the sucker out.

Click here for some pickled Burdock recipes.

This is Sandy. Can you see how that fur would be a nightmare to deal with when it comes in to contact with Burdock burs?

Burn Treatment
The leaves of the burdock may be used for pain management and may help speed up recovery time for burns. It is said to impede bacterial growth by acting as a barrier to moisture.

Kinpira Gobo Recipe
Makes 2-1/2 cups
Preparation Time: 35 minutes

Beginners usually get into trouble when they sauté root (gobo in Japanese) instead of simmering or steaming it because sautéing makes it harder to make the root tender. The trick is to slice the root razor-thin and braise it after sautéing, as in this spicy Japanese side-dish.

2 tbs. dark (toasted) sesame oil
2 cups root, very thinly sliced
2 cups wild or commercial carrots, thinly sliced
2 tbs. fresh ginger, thinly-sliced
1 clove garlic, peeled but not cut
1/2 cup redbud wine, mirin (Japanese rice wine), or white wine
1/4 cup whole sesame seeds
2 tbs. tamari soy sauce
1 tbs. chili paste or 1/2 tbs. cayenne hot pepper, or to taste

Sauté the carrots, ginger, and garlic in sesame oil 10 minutes, stirring often. Remove and discard the garlic as soon as it turns slightly brown. Meanwhile, toast sesame seeds in a frying pan over medium heat, stirring constantly, until they pop and become slightly brown and fragrant. Remove the sesame seeds from frying pan and set aside. Add the remaining ingredients to the sautéed vegetables, bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover, and simmer 15 minutes. Add the sesame seeds. Serve hot as an appetizer, a condiment, or a side dish.

Incorrigible Forageables: Japanese Knotweed

2012-08-21T09:43:00.005-04:00

I recently went to Herbstalk 2012 in Somerville and learned that you can make Japanese Knotweed tincture that boosts your immune system to help fight against Lyme disease!

Yay, herbstalk!

Japanese Knotweed has a bitter, sour flavor and I don't particularly enjoy it, but some people LOVE it.

Here's the recipe for the tincture to battle Lyme disease and other spirochetal diseases: harvest the root (which is a super pain to dig up) and mix it with a VERY high proof vodka alcohol.

five parts Japanese knotweed root to one part HIGH-proof alcohol (vodka, everclear, etc.)
let sit one to one and a half months, shaking it up every day or two (up to 6 months is ideal)
Sieve out the root pieces

You can use this recipe for humans OR animals! When using herbs to treat anything, it is best to use as local as possible, so if you have invasive knotweed growing in your backyard and you have safe and healthy soil, then your backyard is the best place to go for your ingredients.

When using the treatment for animals (i.e.: medium sized dogs) the doseage goes as follows: mix 1/2 the vodka with 1/2 veggie glycerin to sweeten the tincture and lessen the burn. Use 1/2 a dropper 2 times per day. It is best one hour after feeding but you can also just put it right into your animals food.

Nancy Anderson, the herbalist who gave me this recipe suggested that for every year of having lyme disease, one treats themselves for 3 months with the tincture. So if you're using this as a treatment and not preventatively, and you've had lyme disease for 2 years, you should treat yourself for 6 months.

Incorrigible Forageables: Purslane

2012-08-21T09:43:00.002-04:00

Purslane is a scrumptious gem of a weed! It is a succulent, which means that it has fat, water-retaining leaves, stems and roots that burst with flavor.

The other day I used purslane and lamb's quarters in a stir fry for some guests and they loved the new tastes! Then I added a bunch of chopped purslane stems and leaves to a salad with a bit of oil, balsamic vinegar, soy sauce, lemon juice and garam masala. The possibilities are endless and fun to play around with in the kitchen with purslane's unique flavor.

It is rich in vitamin C as well as alpha-linoleic acid a.k.a. a well-known and highly coveted Omega-3 fatty acid.

Can't wait to try this out the next time I harvest some purslane! Looks savory!

Incorrigible Forageables: Lamb's Quarter

2012-08-21T09:42:00.005-04:00

Lamb's quarters (also known as goosefoot, pigweed, or fat hen) are absolutely delicious and grow EVERYWHERE! You can tell how rich your soil is by how lush your lamb's quarters growing in it are. Lamb's quarters grow big yummy leaves in nutrient-dense soil.

To me, Lamb's quarters taste like a velvety-textured spinach with a hint of pine nut flavor. Sound yummy? It is! I've made Lamb's Quarter saag (Click HERE for my Dad's delicious saag recipe that I've posted about in the past and just substitute the spinach for Lamb's quarters) and my Desi friends have exclaimed that it tastes even better than spinach!

It is cultivated in parts of Asia and Africa for food, but in most of N. America and Europe it is considered a weed.

Lamb's quarters is high in protein, vitamin A, calcium, phosphorous and potassium. Like other members of the spinach family and black teas, lamb's quarters is also high in Oxalic acid. With this in mind, just take care not to eat a consistent diet too high in raw leaves of any of these plants.

Other than that, I'll hope you'll get a chance to try it out. It's one of my favorites!

Incorrigible Forageables: Stinging Nettles

2012-08-21T09:42:00.002-04:00

Stinging nettles are pretty much a super food and a magical wild edible! They are a rich source of beta-carotene, vitamin A, C and E, iron, calcium, phosphates and minerals.

The most common benefit I've heard of for using stinging nettle, is to treat allergies, strengthen the immune system and aid in kidney cleansing.

If harvesting, make sure to wear gloves! Some people, myself included, do not have a severe reaction to stinging nettles. Either way, the sting is not a pleasant experience. Most people get welts where the sting gets in contact with their skin and experience a tingling sensation for hours after. Boiling, blanching and drying nettle leaves neutralizes the sting.

Harvest the young leaves at the top of the plant. I harvest no more than 2-3 stratum of leaves.

Check out this past post for my recipe for Nettle Tabouli. Also, this season's Edible Boston has an entire spread of Nettle recipes!

The following are from this website: http://holisticmedicine-denie.blogspot.com/2011/04/benefits-of-nettle-plant.html

Nettle tea
Nettle tea may be useful in eliminating cold viruses and bacterial infections. Preparation: the tea can be prepared through soaking the fresh or dried leaves in boiled water. I like to use fresh leaves and then strain them out and use them to cook with (nettle ravioli, pasta with a creamy nettle sauce or nettle pesto here I come!).

Nettle infusion
Washing the scalp with nettle (leaves or roots) infusion and nettle tincture may help thicken and strengthen hair. Preparation: to prepare the infusion: mix 60g of finely crushed nettles with two and a half cups of water. The mixture is boiled, and then covered for 10 minutes. It can be used either hot or cold.

Nettle tincture
Eliminates dandruff and leaves the hair silky, strong and revitalized. Preparation: leave six-seven fresh leaves or two spoons of the dried plant to macerate in half a liter of high-proof alcohol for ten days. The mixture is then used to rub on the hair root.

Nettle juice
Preparation: gather the nettle leaves and stem and put them into a fruit juicer. Filter the paste and keep the juice in the fridge in dark bottles.

TEDTalk: Pam Warhurst: How we can Eat our Landscapes

2012-08-20T18:10:00.000-04:00

Among, Not Above

2012-08-20T18:07:00.001-04:00

Every City Needs Healthy Honey Bees

2012-07-28T16:54:00.001-04:00

The Collapse as Laid Out by George Carlin

2012-07-23T07:51:00.001-04:00

When nature gets even with humans...

Incorrigible Forageables!

2012-07-22T13:23:00.001-04:00

Wild edibles are delicious, nutritious and free! Yay! But make sure you are positive in identifying them and that you are finding them in healthy soil (in other words, avoid foraging for wild edibles in lead-contaminated urban soil or the like).

Stinging Nettles

Stinging nettles are pretty much a super food and a magical wild edible! They are a rich source of beta-carotene, vitamin A, C and E, iron, calcium, phosphates and minerals.

The most common benefit I've heard of for using stinging nettle, is to treat allergies, strengthen the immune system and aid in kidney cleansing.

Harvest the young leaves at the top of the plant. I harvest no more than 2-3 stratum of leaves.

Check out this past post for my recipe for Nettle Tabouli. Also, this season's Edible Boston has an entire spread of Nettle recipes!

The following are from this website: http://holisticmedicine-denie.blogspot.com/2011/04/benefits-of-nettle-plant.html

Lamb's Quarter

It is cultivated in parts of Asia and Africa for food, but in most of N. America and Europe it is considered a weed.

Other than that, I'll hope you'll get a chance to try it out. It's one of my favorites!

Purslane

Purslane is a scrumptious gem of a weed! It is a succulent, which means that it has fat, water-retaining leaves, stems and roots that burst with flavor.

It is rich in vitamin C as well as alpha-linoleic acid a.k.a. a well-known and highly coveted Omega-3 fatty acid.

Can't wait to try this out the next time I harvest some purslane! Looks savory!

Japanese Knotweed

I recently went to Herbstalk 2012 in Somerville and learned that you can make Japanese Knotweed tincture that boosts your immune system to help fight against Lyme disease!

Yay, herbstalk!

Japanese Knotweed has a bitter, sour flavor and I don't particularly enjoy it, but some people LOVE it.

Here's the recipe for the tincture to battle Lyme disease and other spirochetal diseases: harvest the root (which is a super pain to dig up) and mix it with a VERY high proof vodka alcohol.

five parts Japanese knotweed root to one part HIGH-proof alcohol (vodka, everclear, etc.)
let sit one to one and a half months, shaking it up every day or two (up to 6 months is ideal)
Sieve out the root pieces

Burdock Root

Click here for some pickled Burdock recipes.

This is Sandy. Can you see how that fur would be a nightmare to deal with when it comes in to contact with Burdock burs?

2 tbs. dark (toasted) sesame oil
2 cups root, very thinly sliced
2 cups wild or commercial carrots, thinly sliced
2 tbs. fresh ginger, thinly-sliced
1 clove garlic, peeled but not cut
1/2 cup redbud wine, mirin (Japanese rice wine), or white wine
1/4 cup whole sesame seeds
2 tbs. tamari soy sauce
1 tbs. chili paste or 1/2 tbs. cayenne hot pepper, or to taste

Wild Grape Leaves

When harvesting, make sure to gather the young, tender, green leaves. The older leaves are woody and fibrous.

6 dozen grape leaves rinsed.
2 C leftover rice
1 lb hamburger
1 minced onion
6 cloves of garlic minced
½ C chopped pecans
1 handful plantain chopped (this is a wild green, you could substitute swiss chard or spinach)
2 TB lemon juice
salt
pepper

Directions

Preparing the Leaves. Young leaves are best. Choose leaves that are bright green, and about as large as a woman’s hand.
Rinse leaves and then bring a pot of water with 1 tsp salt to boil. Add leaves and boil a few minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water.
The Stuffing - Brown hamburger with onion and garlic. Drain if needed. Add salt, pepper, and nuts. Cook a few more minutes. Mix with remaining ingredients. Allow to cool.
Place the leaf stem side up. Put about 1 TB of stuffing on near the stem end. Fold the sides in and roll tightly, and place in a shallow baking dish.
The rolls can simply be brushed with olive oil or baked with about a cup of tomato sauce or water. I prefer them baked with tomato sauce.
Bake at 300 F for 50 minutes.

Wild Chamomile

Iced Chamomile Tea

Place chamomile in boiling water or pour boiled water over chamomile flowers and leaves.
Let steep about 5 minutes
Add LOTS of ice
add a bit of local honey to taste.

Internal Uses:

Mild Sedative
Calms stomach spasms caused by gastritis and colitis
Helps rid-of or prevent diarrhea and other intestinal related issues
Helps with liver problems
Encourages sweating, which helps with lowering a fever
Relieves headache pain
Can be beneficial for babies with colic
Calms or prevents menstruation pains

External Uses:

Calms red and inflamed skin
Liquid feed and plant tonic effective against plant diseases
You can add Chamomile to your shampoo and/or conditioner. It helps add a silky look to your hair while strengthening your roots.
Dried flowers can be used as an insect repellent
Stuffy nose: breathe in the steam from boiling Chamomile in water to clear out your sinus system.

http://www.simplysetup.com/simple-living-2/wild-chamomile-finding-identifying-and-using.html

The Story of Change

2012-07-20T23:21:00.001-04:00

Welcome to the Rest of Our Lives

2012-07-10T19:38:00.000-04:00

This movie is powerfully frightening. Yes, it's happening.

Will the Real Honey Please Stand Up?

2012-07-09T10:01:00.001-04:00

From the Blog: Civil Eats

Will the Real Honey Please Stand Up?

July 9th, 2012 By Brie Mazurek

National Pollinator Week was the perfect occasion to pay homage one of the small but mighty heroes of our food system: the honeybee. One out of every three bites of food we eat is made possible because of this popular pollinator, and annually, honeybees help in the production of about $15 billion worth of US crops, including many of our favorite fruits, vegetables, and nuts.
But honeybees and other pollinators are under threat. In recent years, beekeepers have reported 30 to 90 percent losses of their hives due to colony collapse disorder (CCD). The exact causes of CCD are still undetermined, but widespread use of synthetic pesticides is believed to be the primary culprit, along with other factors such as parasites, poor nutrition, environmental stress, and migratory beekeeping practices.
Beekeepers are prime players in the fate of the honeybee, and some practices that are standard in the apiculture industry may be doing more harm than good. Most commercial beekeepers place their hives on or near farms where pesticides are in common use and routinely feed their bees high-fructose corn syrup—derived from corn treated with neonicotinoids, a family of pesticides that is a prime suspect in CCD.
In addition to their vital service as pollinators, bees are, of course, the only creatures capable of making honey. Supporting local beekeepers who use sustainable and nontoxic practices may be one piece of the puzzle in sustaining healthy honeybee populations.
Honey is concentrated flower nectar. Bees gather the nectar from flowers, add enzymes to it, and store it in the hive, where other bees fan their wings to reduce the honey’s moisture content to about 18 percent. At the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, artisanal beekeepers offer a dizzying array of honey varietals sourced from Bay Area blooms such as eucalyptus, toyon, tanbark oak, sage, and manzanita, each one offering its own complex flavor profile and resinous hue of amber or gold.

While commercial honeys are blended from multiple floral sources and geographic locations, varietal honeys represent a particular terroir, the special characteristics of a unique location and season, much like fine wines and cheeses. Polyfloral honey, often called wildflower honey, is derived from the nectars of multiple types of flowers in a single locale and varies depending on the blooms in a given season. Monofloral, or single-source, honey originates primarily from the nectar of a single type of flower. Beekeepers position their hives based on where and when a particular flower blooms, and plan their harvest as the bloom is ending. While it’s impossible to control exactly where the bees forage for their nectar, experienced beekeepers like Bill Snyders of Snyders Honey are able to confirm the dominant flower source by observing the blooms and tasting.
Like farmers, beekeepers are at the mercy of the seasons and elements. For Snyders, the honey harvest usually runs from mid-May into summer, though it fluctuates from year to year. “All plants need a certain temperature to give a certain amount of nectar,” he explains. “If you get a freak streak of weather like a cooling period or a rain, that’ll wipe a bloom out. The best we can do is to have the hives prepped and ready to go.”
Another key difference between local honeys and commercial brands is processing. A recent study by Food Safety News found that 76 percent of honey bought at conventional grocery stores had been ultra-filtered, meaning that the honey was heated and filtered with high pressure to remove all traces of pollen, most likely in China. Marketing this pollenless product as “honey” is actually illegal in the US, but the FDA isn’t checking.

Small beekeepers like Snyders and Marshall’s Farm Natural Honey use minimal to no heat or filtering, to preserve the honey’s healthful (and flavorful) enzymes and minerals. “For me, processing is everything—or rather, the lack of processing,” says Snyders. His raw wildflower “cappings” honey is their least processed honey, scraped straight off the caps of the honeycomb. Raw honey crystallizes over time and exhibits a cloudy appearance due to the presence of particles of wax and pollen.
What about local organic honey? Currently, CCOF does not certify honey and the USDA National Organic Program does not have specific standards for apiaries (they fall under the broad category of “livestock”). Any honey you find in the store bearing the “USDA Organic” seal is worth questioning. Though it might be packaged in the US, most “certified organic” honey is generally imported from countries like Brazil, using standards set by the EU or other entities.
Although the hives kept by Marshall’s Farm used to be registered organic through the Napa County agricultural commissioner, the Marshalls were subsequently informed that they could not label their honey as such. In order to have a truly organic honey, all blooms that bees might visit—a 2.5-mile radius—would have to be inspected. “It’s sort of like fish,” says Helene Marshall. “Fish swim, bees fly. You can’t tell them where and where not to go.”
Marshall’s Farm continues to use the same practices they did before they had to “stop using the ‘O’ word,” she says. “We don’t treat with anything. It’s survival of the fittest.” Snyders Honey does not treat their hives either, except for applying thymol (a natural thyme extract) in the fall to help control the lethal varroa mite, which has devastated up to a third of their colonies annually.
The only surefire way you can support sustainable apiculture is to get to know your beekeepers. “If you just go by packaging, it’s ambiguous,” says Marshall. “The beauty about shopping at a farmers market is you can ask the producer, ‘When was this harvested? Where is this actually from?’”
For recipes for cooking with honey, see the CUESA website. Marshall’s Farm Natural Honey can be found at the Thursday and Saturday markets, while Snyders Honey is at the Tuesday market.
Take action! Tell the EPA to protect bees from pestcides.

Originally published in CUESA’s weekly e-letter.

Brie Mazurek is Online Education Manager at the Center for Urban Education about Sustainable Agriculture, which operates the San Francisco Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. She is also a consultant for Nourish, a nonprofit educational initiative designed to engage people in the story of our food.

Backyard Compost 101: Tips + What to compost

2012-07-07T23:25:00.002-04:00

Keep a small bin in your kitchen for food scraps. I keep a gallon container next to my sink. I throw all my organic food scraps straight in the bin to collect and periodically dump it into the outdoor compost. Find a container that can contain any smell and is easy to rinse after dumping

Fill your bin with a balanced mixture (for best results):

Green stuff (high in nitrogen) to activate the heatprocess in your compost. Perfect heat-generating materials include: young weeds (before they develop seeds); comfrey leaves; yarrow; chicken, rabbit or pigeon manure; grass cuttings; etc. Other green items that compost well include fruit and vegetables; fruit and vegetable scraps; coffee grounds and tea leaves (including tea bags - remove the staple if you wish); vegetable plant remains; plants.
Brown stuff (high in carbon) to serve as the "fiber" for your compost. Brown stuff includes fall (autumn) leaves; dead plants and weeds; sawdust; cardboard & cardboard tubes (from foil wraps etc); old flowers (including dried floral displays, minus plastic/foam attachments); old straw and hay; and small animal bedding.
'Other items that can be composted but you may not have thought of before: paper towels; paper bags; cotton clothing (torn up); egg shells; hair (human, dog, cat etc.) Use all these items in moderation.

Air. It is possible to compost without air (anaerobically), but the process employs different bacteria and an anaerobic compost pile will take on a sour smell like vinegar. It may also attract flies or take on a matted, slimy appearance. If you believe your compost pile needs more air, turn it, and try adding more dry or brown stuff to open up the structure.

Water. Your pile should be about as damp as a sponge that has been wrung out. Depending on your climate, you can add water directly or rely on the moisture that comes in with "green" items. A lid on the compost bin will help to keep moisture in. If a pile gets too much water in it, it might not get enough air.

Temperature. The temperature of the compost pile is very important and is an indication of the microbial activity of the decomposition process. The simplest way to track the temperature inside the heap is by feeling it with your hand. If it is warm or hot, everything is decomposing as it should, but if it is the same temperature as the surrounding air, the microbial activity has slowed down and you need to add more materials that are high in nitrogen to the bin.

Layer or mix the different materials in your bin so that they come into contact with one another and so that you avoid any large clumps. Especially avoid compacting large quantities of green materials together, since they can rapidly become anaerobic.

If possible, start with a layer of lightweight brown material, such as leaves, to help keep enough air near the bottom.
Try for a mixture of anywhere from 3 parts brown to 1 part green to half and half, depending on what materials you have on hand.
Sprinkle each layer lightly with water as you build the heap, if it requires additional moisture.

Turn your pile regularly, once every week or two. Clear a patch next to the pile. Then use a pitchfork and move the entire pile to the clear spot. When it is time to turn the pile again, move it back to the original spot, or back into the bin. Mixing the pile in this way helps to keep air flowing inside the pile, which encourages aerobic decomposition. Anaerobic decomposition will smell very stinky (generally sour, like vinegar) and they decompose materials more slowly than aerobic bacteria. Turning the pile helps to encourage the growth of the right kind of bacteria and makes for a nice, sweet-smelling pile that will decompose faster.

Try to move matter from inside to outside and from top to bottom. Break up anything that is clumpy or matted. Add water or wet, green materials if it seems too dry. Add dry, brown materials if the pile seems too wet. If you are still adding to the pile, take the opportunity while you turn it to introduce the new matter and mix it well with the older matter.

Decide whether to add slow rotting items such as tough branches, twigs and hedge clippings; wood ash; wood shavings and wood pruning. They can be composted, but you may want to compost them separately because they will take longer to break down, especially in a cold climate with a shorter composting season. Shred heavy materials, if you can, for faster decomposition.

Try to avoid composting bread, pasta, nuts, and cooked food. They don't break down very easily, become quite slimy, and can hold up the heating, rotting-down process. (Old nuts left in the garden will disappear quickly if you have squirrels or monkeys around!)

Never compost the following items for reasons of health, hygiene and inability to break down: meat and meat scraps; bones; fish and fish bones; plastic or synthetic fibers; oil or fat; disposable diapers (nappies); glossy paper or magazines; coal and coke ash; and cat litter. Place these items in the normal garbage collection.

Information mostly from personal experience and: http://www.wikihow.com/Compost

Building a Backyard Compost Box

2012-07-07T22:33:00.000-04:00

Gardeners and farmers call compost "Black Gold" because it is nutrient rich and packed with minerals easily accessible to plants. Quality compost can be invaluable for growing premium plants and veggies. Here's an easy way to build a compost box in your backyard practically for free.

Step 1: Find four intact shipping pallets. These pallets were donated by Woodmeister : Master Builders, but you can find them for free at practically any store that gets shipments delivered.

Step 2: If the plot where you want to put the compost box is unlevel, dig and turn the soil about 2-3 inches deep. This will help the sod rot quicker, put your food compost directly in contact with the soil, and make it easier to push dirt around in order to level out the ground.

Step 3: hammer wooden stakes in the ground distanced at the same length as the pallets.

Step 4: Tie string around the stakes in order to measure at what point the ground is level.

Step 5: Wherever the ground is not level (you can tell by using a level tool), push soil under that spot. If your compost bin will be abutting a slope, use rocks to brace against major erosion (but I don't suggest placing a compost box near a steep slope)

When your ground is level you can start setting up your pallets

Align the corners of the pallets together, use a hammer to bang them farther into the ground and cover the base with soil to keep it sturdy.

We tied our pallets together with natural, biodegradable twine and checked throughout the process that the pallets were level. They will most likely shift throughout time, but it's good to get a fresh start.

Here's our finished product! Looks quite handsome on a farm, in a backyard or in any urban setting , in my opinion.

Pallets are great to use for compost. Moisture, aeration, heat and pressure are required for speedy break-down of organic materials. The slits in the side of pallets allows for air circulation and moisture to penetrate the compost pile.. We don't mind if some critters get in to ours. We haven't had any problems. But you can always wrap a metal mesh around yours if you're concerned.

One rule of thumb is that the more green material you add to the compost (weeds, grass clippings, leaves, etc.) the less water you will need to add. If you are getting a ton of rain, you may want to consider covering your compost pile with a tarp for a short time.

Great materials to compost include:

Weeds - they sucked up the nutrients away from your plants. Now it's time to return micro-nutrients to the soil! This is debatable, but my experience is that you don't need to be concerned about the seeds. A good compost pile will reach temperatures of 140-160 degrees when the micro-organisms break down the organic matter and the seeds can't survive that heat.
Coffee grounds with the filter - The filter will break down, worms love it, and it is an excellent source of nitrogen for your soil
Organic kitchen scraps (egg shells, vegetable and fruit peels, corn cobs, etc.)
Algae, seaweed and lake moss - Excellent source of minerals, nutrients and nitrogen
Tea with the tea leaves included - adds carbon and extra moisture to help feed the microbes that breakdown the compost.

Keep in mind that you should NOT compost the following:

Coal or charcoal ash - toxic to plants. But WOOD ash is great!
Meat or excessive amounts of grease/oil - These can go rancid. Grease may actually coat foods and preserve them so they don't break down as quickly. Meat can attract unwanted visitors.
Non-biodegradable materials,