Reasons Why Your Cat May Be So Thirsty

An increase in thirst is quite a common thing for cat owners to mention during vet visits. Of course, it’s also common for them to miss the increased thirst, but bring up the other “end” of the issue… increased urinations.

Were you aware though that there are actually many potential causes of increased thirst and/or urinations in cats? These can include:

• A change in the weather and/or humidity
• A change in your cat’s activity level
• A change in your cat’s food
• A urinary tract infection
• An overactive thyroid gland
• Progressive kidney disease
• Diabetes
  
  As you can see, even just from this partial list, there are many possibilities. And what’s more, each of them warrants their own level of concern.

A visit to your vet will be necessary to determine the actual underlying cause in your cat’s particular case.

Here are 3 things you can do prior to visiting your vet to help the work-up along

1. Pick up a bottle of Keto-Diastix at your local pharmacy. These are easy-to-use reagent strips that allow you to quickly and reliably check for the presence of glucose (sugar) and/or ketones in your cat’s urine.
   The presence of glucose in your cat’s urine may indicate diabetes, while the presence of ketones may indicate the presence of a severe metabolic emergency of undiagnosed/ uncontrolled diabetes or diabetic ketoacidosis (DKA). Learn more about diabetes and DKA in cats. Note: glucose or ketones in your cat’s urine is NOT definitive for diabetes or DKA, as either can be present for a few other reasons, too.
   
   
2. Measure the amount of water your cat is actually drinking in a 24-hour period.
   
   • Fill their water bowl(s) with a measured amount of water first thing in the morning, then keep a running total of additional water you add throughout the day (if any).
   • First thing the following morning subtract the amount of water still left in the bowl(s) from the total to determine how much water your cat drank in the preceding 24-hour period.
   • Do this a couple of different days and bring those numbers to your vet so they can calculate if your cat’s water consumption is truly excessive. (*Note that this can be more difficult to do in a home with multiple pets, but it can still be accomplished by separating out the cat in question for a day or two to specifically measure their daily water intake.)
     
     
3. Read about the information your vet can get from testing your cat’s urine, and what it can mean.

Xylitol: More Dangerous Than Chocolate, Yet Less Well Known About

Do you know what xylitol is? Are you (fully) aware of the danger it poses to dogs? You wouldn’t be alone if you answered “no” to either, or even both of these questions. In our ongoing Pet Safety Awareness survey over 50% of the respondents weren’t aware of xylitol or the danger it poses to dogs until they took the survey! By comparison, you’d be hard pressed to find a dog owner who isn’t aware that chocolate can be toxic to dogs. Right?

Yet xylitol can be far-more-dangerous to dogs than chocolate! The picture below shows the minimum amount of dark chocolate that could cause death in three different weights of dog — compared to the minimum number of pieces of xylitol-containing sugar free gum that could have the same devastating effect.

Keeping "Kitty Roca" Off the Menu

If you’ve got cats and dogs you’ve likely fought the battle to keep your dogs from “helping” you keep the cat’s litter boxes clean — yes? Perhaps you’re still fighting the battle? Maybe you’ve given up?

Avoiding potential "hang-ups"

Break-Away Collars For Cats

There are several brands on the market (incl. National Leash, Lupine Pet, and others) so be sure to test how easy or hard it is to get the collar clasp to actually break-away by comparing how much stretch and pressure you have to exert to get it to release. You'll want to approximate which level of release would be best for your cat based on their size and weight.

These types of collars can save lives, so they’re definitely worth checking out. But since they are designed to come off in dangerous situations, don’t forget about the importance of also microchipping (and of periodically ensuring that your contact information associated with that microchip is current).

Scaredy Cats and Frightened Fidos

A heartbreakingly large number of cats and dogs suffer terrible fear and anxiety from fireworks displays and thunderstorms.

Unfortunately, many of these pets are still given a medication called acepromazine (or as it’s more commonly called… “Ace”) in an effort to help them through these terrifying events.

If you're like many people, you might want to give your dog some peanut butter as an occasional treat. Or you might want to use peanut butter as a trick or reward to get your dog to take their medications? In many cases this is perfectly fine (so long as it's not in excess — as too much can cause pancreatitis and/or contribute to obesity).

However, with the introduction of a unique line of peanut and other nut butters onto the market — Nuts ’N More® —  the answer to the question of whether or not it’s safe to give, even a small quantity of, peanut butter to your dogs is no longer a straightforward one. Why? Because of the sweetener that’s been used to replace the sugar in this line of peanut and other nut butters. That sugar substitute is called xylitol.


UPDATE #1 (June 14, 2015): We have learned of a second brand of peanut butters that also contain xylitol — Krush Nutrition. We will be reaching out to them to discuss adding awareness to their product packaging. They currently provide a “Xylitol and Dogs” warning in the FAQ section of their website, as well as on their product pages.

UPDATE #3 (August 6, 2015): The list of peanut and nut butters containing xylitol that we have uncovered has now grown to FIVE! We have reached out to all of them to discuss this dog hazard and to secure increased awareness on their product packaging and websites. We will continue to keep you updated with progress. Here are the five companies (in alphabetical order): (1) Go Nuts, Co., (2) Hank's Protein Plus Peanut Butter, (3) Krush Nutrition, (4) Nuts 'N More, and (5) P28. While these are "specialty butters" that are mostly sold in nutrition stores and online (currently), the subtle presence of xylitol in these butters definitely highlights the importance of reading ingredient labels on products you bring into your home, and especially doing so prior to sharing anything with your pets and if your pets ever get into anything they shouldn't have. Please don't assume that things which are safe for you are also safe for your pets. As you'll see below, this can be a very dangerous assumption with xylitol!

Is Xylitol Safe For Dogs?

•  Ingestion of as little as 0.1 gram (g) of xylitol per kilogram (kg) of body weight (0.1 g/kg) can cause a rapid and dangerous drop in a dog’s blood sugar (a condition called “hypoglycemia”). Hypoglycemia can show as staggering, appearing disoriented, collapse, weakness, and seizures.
  
  
• Just slightly more than that, approx. 0.5 g/kg xylitol ingestion, can lead to debilitating, and sadly often deadly, destruction of a dog’s liver cells.

Should you break a window to save a dog in a hot car?

You might've seen or read in the news recently the story of Michael Hammons, the Desert Storm veteran who was charged with criminal trespassing after breaking a car window to save a dog locked in a hot car. The story has prompted lots of comments, with most expressing their support for Mr. Hammonds and many declaring that they would've done the same in his situation.

Update: Fortunately the charges were dropped.

But as Mr. Hammons' story highlights, when it comes to pets locked in hot cars, sometimes doing the right thing can land you in hot water. So how, as a pet-loving society, can we protect, save, and advocate for pets while avoiding the prospect of criminal charges ourselves?

How can we help pets in hot cars without getting arrested?

One way of course is through spreading the word about not just the dangers of Heat Stroke, but also of the speed and the (surprisingly low) temperatures at which it can occur, the factors that increase a pet’s risk of suffering from Heat Stroke, and the fact that it doesn’t only happen in hot cars. For that you can find a lot more information, tips, and FAQs on our Prevent Heat Stroke awareness page.

Another way we can help is through lobbying for the passage of well-thought-out, effective, and easily enforceable laws that provide real-world protection for pets in these situations. Fortunately more states are now considering and passing such laws, but there really is no excuse for such legal protections to not be present in all 50 states, or indeed even provided under federal law.

How can you make sure you're getting the most bang for your buck when giving your pet an antibiotic for their urinary tract infection?

Urinary Tract Infections (UTIs) are common in both cats and dogs, and thus most pets will find themselves on an antibiotic to treat a UTI at some point in their life.

While the specific antibiotic and length of treatment can vary from case to case and will be best determined by your veterinariany, did you know that there is one simple step you can take that can increase the effectiveness of your pet's UTI antibiotic? There is, and it's as simple as timing.

Medication Dosage Tip – Timing Can Help

By giving the antibiotic after their first morning pee and/or after their last pee of the evening, you ensure that the antibiotic has the longest possible stay within your pet's bladder... the site where it needs to be to do its job most effectively.

This tip is useful regardless of whether the antibiotic is a "once a day" or "twice a day" medication. Talk to your veterinarian and give it a shot.

Hi, I'm your dog’s pancreas

I'm reaching out today specifically because of all these bouts with pancreatitis… you know, the condition where I become inflamed and you and your dog pay the price. I'm tired of being the bad guy, but I’m also tired of having to work so hard because of all the extra “treats” you keep giving your dog. Now I'm not talking about the occasional dog biscuit or the carrots and green beans you give him. Those are fine. What really bothers me, what really hurts me, what really inflames me are all of the “extra special” treats — the bacon and sausage, the prime rib leftovers and steak bones, the scraps from your holiday feasts.

And that bacon grease you keep adding to your dog’s food in hopes of giving him a shinier coat. Really?!?! Who ever gave you that idea? what website or chat room did you read that one on?? Please stop, you’re killing me! Literally.

National Hairball Awareness Day

What Are Hairballs?

So Hairballs Are Normal?

How Can I Prevent Hairballs?

• Try a hairball prevention and treatment gel, such as Laxatone. These gels typically have a lubricant to help move things along your cat’s digestive tract.
  
  
• Feed one of the diets specifically formulated to reduce hairball formation. These diets often have an increased amount of fiber to help move things along your cat’s digestive tract. Hill's Pet Nutrition, the folks who started National Hairball Awareness Day, have several diets and treats to help control hairball formation. As do many other companies. Speak with your veterinarian to see which food(s) might be best for your cats.
  
  
• But perhaps the best tip for helping to prevent hairballs is to get a good comb or a de-shedding tool (like the Furminator) and brush your cat regularly, ideally daily, to keep your cat’s loose furs to a minimum. If you can keep the loose furs from building up in his coat, you’ve got a better chance of keeping them from building up in his digestive tract... and thus finding their way under your unsuspecting foot!
  
  

Bzzzz...

What to look out for

When a sting happens

Repeat stings in a short period of time

Have you taken a pet first aid course? Are you even aware that such courses exist? April is National Pet First Aid Awareness month, so this is a great time to talk about this important topic.

As is the case with people, timely and appropriate first aid can help your cats and dogs. From learning how to deal with a bee sting or cleanout and bandage a wound, to more advanced steps, such as safely transporting an injured pet or performing CPR, knowing first aid can provide you with peace of mind and your pets with a better chance of recovery from their illness, injury, or other emergency. Yet, sadly, too few people are even aware that pet first aid classes exist, let alone have ever taken one.

In our ongoing pet emergency preparedness survey only 21% of the respondents have taken a pet first aid course. Yet, over 71% of respondents report having needed veterinary emergency care for one of their pets.

As a veterinarian, I can tell you that there are many accident and emergency situations where timely and appropriate first aid can benefit your pets. Similarly though, it's also important that you know what NOT to do. And this is why I encourage every pet owner to learn the basic first aid knowledge that you can easily obtain from an accredited pet first aid course.

Go Away Coyote!

We have had quite a few coyote sightings recently in our neighborhood here in Portland. Just this past week my dog, Wendy, and I were followed by one while out for our early morning stroll.

Fortunately, I knew not to turn and run, and I recalled that it is best to make one’s self “as large and as loud as possible” to scare a coyote away. The coyote did eventually retreat, but not fully, and he continued to watch us while we walked - backwards - to the safety of our home.

That was one bold coyote!

Apparently, this is what happens as coyotes get more comfortable and lose their natural fear of people, and it would appear that it is happening in many parts of the country, even in and around big cities.

This got me thinking, what could or should I have done differently during this encounter? And, most important, what should we and our neighbors be doing to dissuade coyotes from coming onto our street and into our neighborhoods in the first place? I learned some very interesting things during my research - things that I feel all pet owners and parents of small children should know.

Many pets, especially as they age, grow little lumps and bumps on the surface of their skin or just under their skin, in what’s called the subcutaneous space. Such growths can be all kinds of things from benign (not harmful), although potentially unsightly, “skin tags” and cysts to bug bites or masses, which themselves can be either benign or problematic.

It's always best to play it safe

Take Note, Take Measure, Take Pictures

Your pets - especially your cats - are susceptible to a painful dental condition called tooth resorption

In this condition the multiple surfaces of a tooth are systematically destroyed (resorbed - "broken down and dissolved back into the body") by the cells of your pet's own body. The cells that are responsible for this destruction are called odontoclasts. These cells have a normal and healthy function within the body, but for some reason, in this disease state, they begin to exert their resorptive function in an abnormal way - resulting in the destruction of an otherwise apparently healthy and normal tooth (or teeth).

Signs your cat's tooth might be resorbing

Estimates suggest that approximately 60-75% of cats over 5 years old will develop at least one resorptive dental lesion in their lifetime. Tooth resorption in cats is very common!

The gradual, subtle, and painful nature of these lesions underscores the importance of paying attention to your cat's dental health, and of bringing them for regular dental evaluations with your veterinarian. It also underscores the importance of anesthesia in pet dental care and the taking of dental x-rays, both to allow full evaluation and care of the tooth and associated structures below the gumline.

It's also important to note that cats who develop one resorptive lesion are unfortunately at high risk of developing additional ones, too.

For more information on feline tooth resorption check out this article by Dr. Dale Kressin, a board-certified specialist in veterinary dentistry based in Wisconsin. And please, if your pets - both cats and dogs - haven't been in for a dental evaluation (and cleaning, if necessary) with your veterinarian recently, please take the time to bring them in soon. After all, February is National Pet Dental Health Month and resorptive lesions aren't the only problem affecting the dental and overall oral health of cats and dogs. And most of these conditions, including resorptive lesions, can only be seen, fully evaluated, and properly treated by your veterinarian.

Fear-Free Vet Visits - How Wonderful!

If you’re a cat lover, you should also love the new shift within the veterinary profession. It’s called the Fear Free movement - and it’s a movement that’s super important… and long overdue.

The Fear Free movement is a recognition (finally) that one of the greatest barriers that keeps cats from getting the veterinary evaluations and care they need isn’t the cost of veterinary care, nor the busy lives that pet owners lead (although both of these reasons certainly are contributing causes). Rather it’s the stress and anxiety that cats show, and the anxiety that their people anticipate and perceive, when undertaking a trip to the veterinarian’s office.

*Of course, another significant barrier to cats getting the care they need is a general misconception that cats are the “low maintenance” pets and they don’t actually need routine check-ups and care, which is untrue. But that’s a topic for another blog post… which just so happens to be here. But I digress.

The Fear Free principles are, in large part, based on the wonderful work of the late, great Dr. Sophia Yin, as well as Dr. Karen Overall, and a lot of other wonderful animal behaviorists, trainers, and veterinarians. Dr. Marty Becker has, along with others, taken up the mantle to educate about, promote, and further the principles of the Fear Free movement. And, as you would expect, he’s proving to be a great spokesperson and champion for the cause.

Now, while there are many things that we within the profession can be doing (and, in an increasing number of cases, are doing), there are also some simple things that you can be doing with your pets at home, both on a regular basis and in advance of a veterinary visit, to help ensure as peaceful an experience as possible… for everyone involved.

What To Do To Minimize Your Cat’s Stress When Going To The Vet

• Every now and again, take your cat for a quick social visit to your vet’s office. No needles, no weight checks, and NO temperature taking… just some petting, socializing, and treating. Doing so can greatly help to prevent or break the association of the vet’s office with stress — especially if you start doing this when your cat is just a kitten.
  
  
• Take out and get your cat’s carrier into their environment a few days prior to the trip to the vet. If practical and if it fits in with your home decor, consider leaving your cat’s carrier out in their environment on a daily basis, allowing them to explore, sleep, play, and maybe even eat in it. This way they won’t associate the carrier just with the trips to the vet.
  
  
• Spray Feliway, a calming pheromone for cats, into your cat’s carrier and on the seat in your car.
  
  
• Use catnip in your cat’s carrier. (Just be careful, as some cats can get extremely hyper on it!)
  
  
• Leave yourself plenty of time to get to the vet’s. Aim to leave the house 10 minutes earlier than you think you’d need to get there, and prepare everything for your trip several hours in advance (the night before is great, if possible and practical). Not only will this help you minimize your own stress, but it’ll also help you drive safely and with minimal erratic stops and starts, which could otherwise contribute to your cat’s anxiety and car sickness.
  
  
• Safely restrain your cat within the car for the trip to (and from) the vet’s office. This isn’t only a safety issue (for everybody), but it can also help your cat feel more secure and decrease the anxiety they may feel during car travel. Read other tips for decreasing travel anxiety (and car sickness) in pets here.
  
  
• Book one of the earlier morning appointment slots with your vet, this way they’re less likely to be running behind and your wait will likely be minimized. (If your wait is to be delayed, and as long as it isn’t too hot or cold outside, consider waiting in the car with your cat until your vet’s team can put you directly into an exam room.)
  
  
• Play calming music in the car on the way to the vet’s office. Either a Classical music station or CD, or a pet-specific calming CD, such as those in the Through A Cat’s Ear series.
  
  
• For cats that get particularly stressed during trips to the vet, continue doing the above but also talk to your veterinarian about possible pre-visit sedation options you can administer at home and also check to see if your vet does housecalls. Either or both of those may help diffuse the situation enough to allow even the most stressed kitty get the care they need and deserve.
  
  
• If you have a dog, check out these dog-specific tips.
  
  

One last note and suggestion. This one is based not just on my experiences and observations within the clinic, but also on some early childhood experiences with my own routine medical care. When I was younger and my Mom would take me to the doctor for shots, blood draws, or anything else involving needles, I would have this automatic, almost instinctual fear of the trip and the procedures. The root cause of this struck me at some point as my Mom was literally squeezing the blood and feeling out of my hand during a shot.

You see, my Mom would always hold my hand whenever such procedures were being done to me, saying “just squeeze my hand if you get nervous or if it’s hurting.” One day I realized that it was her, not me initiating the hand squeezing (and BOY could she squeeze!). I, of course, read that cue as “my Mom is nervous about what’s happening, so it’s got to be bad and I too should be nervous.” Fortunately I’ve since reset and overcome that connection — of course, my Mother no longer holds my hand at the doctor either… which would just be weird if she did (I’m 41 years old, after all). The point though is this… in the process of trying to calm and reassure me, my Mother inadvertently heightened my anxiety and made matters worse.

I’ve seen similar situations time and time again in the veterinary hospitals in which I’ve worked. Well-intentioned and concerned pet owners triggering and reinforcing their cat’s anxiety with the procedures taking place. Often times — in fact, in the vast majority of the times — the pet’s anxiety and struggle disappears when the owner leaves the room or the pet is “taken to the back.” So that brings up one other thing you can consider doing to help minimize your pet’s distress at the vet… work to keep your own fears and anxieties down, and if that’s not possible, consider leaving the room or asking the veterinary team to bring your cat to the back for their procedures and treatments. Trust me… both the veterinary team AND your pet will understand, and they’ll likely both thank you for it, too.

Does your vet do anything specifically to help reduce your pet’s fear and anxiety during visits or hospital stays? Do you do any of the things above, or anything else, yourself to help reduce your pet’s vet visit fear and anxiety? We’d love to hear your thoughts and what’s working and not working for you and your pets. Please share in the comments section below. And, of course, please share these suggestions with any friends or family members who themselves, or their pets, dread going to the vet.

Giving a cat a bath...

Though you likely wouldn’t put the words “cat” and “bath” together in the same sentence (unless it also included the word “never!”), bathing a cat can be done – some actually like it, and sometimes it's a necessity.

Why might you have to bathe a cat?

• Ringworm — This is actually a fungus, rather than a worm. Depending on the severity of your cat’s case, and some other factors, your vet may prescribe medicated baths.
  
  
• Flea infestations — Baths aren’t typically necessary for cats with fleas, as most of the newer flea treatments will kill fleas very quickly. That said, in very bad infestations and in cats with flea allergies, baths may be beneficial and even necessary.
  
  
• Need to get something off their coat — examples include pyrethrin/permethrin flea killing products (which can cause devastating tremors), motor oil or gasoline, antifreeze, potpourri, tree sap, and others.
  
  
• Obese cats or arthritic cats — These cats may be unable to groom themselves properly and fully, and so may need occasional baths to keep their coat and skin healthy. Arthritic cats may even appreciate the bath, as the warm water and the massage of lathering the shampoo can actually feel quite good.
  
  

To bathe your cat it’s important to get all supplies ready first and have a plan.

1. You’ll need some tasty treats that your helper can use to reward (and bribe) your cat with, a pitcher or detachable shower head, pet-specific shampoo, and plenty of towels.
2. Using your sink or a laundry basket/Rubbermaid tub in your bathtub, lay down a towel, non-slip bath mat, or even a cut up yoga mat so your cat won’t freak out as a result of a slippery surface.
3. Partially fill (just a few inches) with warm water (not too hot).
4. Gently place and hold your cat there while your helper uses the pitcher to get your cat’s coat wet.
5. Lather with pet-specific shampoo (your vet may prescribe a specific one, especially if the bath is necessary for medical reasons - like ringworm)
6. Thoroughly rinse the shampoo off using the pitcher or shower head (use a low flow rate so as not to scare your cat).
7. Thoroughly dry your cat using a series of towels. Don’t use a blow dryer unless your cat is already accustomed to it... or unless you don’t value the skin on your arms and face.
   
   

I think this video is quite good in explaining all the steps of how to bathe a cat and you can't go wrong with two adorable cat models. Of course, if all this sounds too much, you can also just take your cat to your vet or a professional groomer :-)

Knock Knock. Who's there?
Possibly a cat!

Perhaps you’ve seen or read the stories of cats who have gotten injured while seeking warmth outside on these cold days?

    •    Brave Cat Survives Car Engine Horror Accident
    •    Miracle Kitten ‘Mr. Biscuits’ Survives Trip in Car Engine
    •    Kitten Escapes Death After Being Found in Car Engine

Given that these injuries don’t just happen to your own cats, but also to your neighbor’s cats and to stray cats, prevention isn’t as simple as keeping your cats indoors. Fortunately though, it’s still quite easy to prevent these painful and distressing events.

Below are two quick steps you can easily make part of your morning routine to keep all cats a little bit safer during these colder months. Try doing them both before starting your engine, and don’t forget to encourage your neighbors to do the same.

Knock on your hood: As you’re walking around to your driver’s side door, take a quick second to knock a couple times on your hood. This will wake up and serve warning to any cats (or other critters) who have taken up residence near your previously warm engine block the evening before.

Honk your horn: Once getting in your car and before starting your engine, give a little toot or two of your horn. This will serve as a (second) warning and wake-up call to the aforementioned cats who might have “hit the snooze button” after your hood knocks.

And here’s a great (and inexpensive & easy) way to keep cats out of your engine compartment in the first place... make and set out this DIY outdoor cat shelter. How cool!

Another winter pet hazard is antifreeze. Read more here to protect your and your neighbor's cats so they don't fall victim to this deadly poison.

"To pull or not to pull?" – that is the question

If an accident happens and your cat does ingest something, “to pull or not to pull?” is the question that so many people ask. This is, of course, in reference to what action you should take should you notice something sticking out of your cat’s butt.

As with most things, there really isn’t a clear-cut answer. Every situation is a bit different.

That said, in most cases, you can initially attempt a very gentle tug to the string while someone else holds the cat to ensure the cat doesn’t run off. If the string comes out easily, great. However — and this is very important — if there is any resistance when trying to remove the string, you must stop pulling immediately and bring your cat to the vet for evaluation.

Why, you may ask? Because the resistance may well indicate that the portion of the string still inside your cat’s intestines is wrapped around something or embedded within the lining of their intestines, and by continuing to pull you may well cause a tear in their intestines or rectum that could result in pain, infection, or leakage of intestinal contents into their abdominal cavity. None of which you, or your cat, want.

Safely cutting the "string"
If you can do so safely (i.e. without cutting their tail or their rectum), you can use scissors to cut the protruding portion of the string prior to transport to the vet. This can help to decrease the chances that it will get tangled around something and cause problems of its own. Leave an inch or two hanging out and be sure to bring the cut portion with you to the vet, so that they can see what type of material they are dealing with and gauge the approximate length.

Should I leave it in and see if it comes out on its own?
It’s a good question. And of course, it’s not a very straight forward situation. It’s tricky because SO much of it depends on how your cat is doing in general and how close an eye you can keep on them (and their poos). It truthfully is always best to err on the side of caution and have your cat evaluated by your vet — once there, if the cat is otherwise doing well and/or you can’t afford diagnostics (x-rays, etc) and/or surgery, then at least your vet has seen and evaluated your cat and can talk to you about options and, if elected, give you home care recommendations and advise you on things to watch for.

If you do decide to “wait and see,” safely cut the protruding string (as described above), and monitor your cat’s appetite, energy, comfort level, and litter box trips VERY closely. If your cat exhibits a drop in appetite, vomiting, decrease in energy level, signs of pain, straining and/or vocalizing within the litter box, or any other concerning signs, they truly must be brought to the vet immediately.

One other note regarding the “wait and see” approach… if you can see string wrapped around the base of your cat’s tongue, which may only be noticeable to you as a purple, swollen tongue, then it’s an indication that the “wait and see” approach is almost certain to fail and is too dangerous to risk, and you should just proceed with your cat immediately to the vet.

It goes without saying, but I'm the Preventive Vet so I'll remind you, that keeping long string-like items out of reach of your cat and leaving cat-safe toys for them to play with while unsupervised will go a long way to ensure your cat doesn't ingest a linear foreign body (as we call it in the profession) and cause your cat a lot of discomfort and potentially life-threathening harm. Read this article for more information on the effects of linear foreign bodies and other ways to protect your cat. Also, if you're so inclined, here are a few DIY cat toys you can make that are safe and your cat might really enjoy. Have fun and play safe!

• World’s Best Cat Litter
• Swheat Scoop
• Yesterday’s News