With my family room being hard-core full of straight edges and lines, I want to add softness to the basically “ugly” corner of the room. Do you have one of those too?

Below is a list of all that I’ve been working on in this space since moving in: (all are full of free and helpful information and vlogs)

• Family Room Demolition Begins
• Family Room Lighting
• Hide Wiring in Open Ceiling
• DIY Open Staircase
• Open Staircase Update
• Family Room Update
• Wall to Ceiling Transition
• Paint an Open Beam Ceiling
• DIY Accent Wall
• Open Staircase Trim

Now if that doesn’t inspire you to just get started, I don’t know what will! hee hee.

ARCH YOU EXCITED?

For the record, I’m not a huge fan of hollow core doors. However, I am also not a fan of replacing what’s functioning perfectly with something new.

With that in mind, I aim to take what is functional and give it a new look to suit my desire.

In my previous home, you can see I transformed seven of my doors into wood grain paneled doors even though there were boring hollow core. See the full tutorial HERE.

This time around, I’m adding curved elements any way I can, including the arch wainscoting I completed in my new entry HERE with tutorial.

Likewise, you can see how I took old louver doors and gave them a modern vibe when I built my son’s bedroom.

So, of course I want to break up the space a bit with a softer arched hollow core door.

If you want to dress up your boring doors as well, there are many ways you can achieve it. To do this exact style, you’ll need the steps and supplies below as well as my vlog tutorial.

STEP 1

Gather your materials and supplies. I’m sharing the steps to use my design for my size door – adjust your measurements to suit your needs.

Materials & supplies:

• 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of ¼” luan (thin plywood) you can use thinner, but there will be less definition. Also, certain stores will cut it down for you for free to fit in your vehicle if you ask.
• brad nailer and ¾” brads or you can staple as well
• jigsaw with fine tooth blade or coping saw or scroll saw… you get the idea.
• circular saw with rip-cut jig or straight edge
• string & pencil
• wood glue (optional)
• tape measure
• builder’s square
• safety gear
• and your choice of finish materials (paint, stain… the sky’s the limit)

First, find the dimensions of your hollow core door. My door is 30″ wide and 77 ½” H.

STEP 2

While you could totally do this with the door in place, I prefer to work with it in a workspace, so things are square and don’t move.

Next, rip your luan into four pieces:

• 2 – 3″ x door length strips
• 1 – 3″ x door width minus 6″ (to equate for the two side strips)
• 1 – panel for top arch (see diagram above and instructions below)

Once I have my pieces cut, I need to create the arch part of this design.

STEP 3

In order to create the panel for the arch, I suggest watching the vlog below for how I figure out the measurements.

My panel measures 30″ W x 15″ high to accommodate the 3″ side strips.

Make two 3″ marks on your panel and find center on both the long top edge and bottom edge. Using our string and pencil, we hold the string taught at bottom center while holding the pencil upright at top center.

Working to one side and then the other, create your arch landing at the 3″ marks.

Then, using your saw of choice, cut the arch.

Attach your pieces (use wood glue if you prefer extra hold) to the door using your nailer or stapler. Make sure to account for hinges, handle/knob holes, and even if your door closes from the inside out or outside in.

*note: You may have to adjust your strips and panel for door jamb thickness, which I address in my paneled hollow core door project linked post above. I simply cut the frame pieces to sit just inside the jamb.

I had already replaced the knobs with handles when I moved in. However, at this point I also clean and paint the hinges to match.

Next, fill in nail holes with wood filler, let cure and sand.

STEP 4

At this point for me, I needed to take a carved piece of time out to tend to my health – my mental health.

You see, I am sharing a small portion of my story to inspire those of us that have a burden many cannot see. View my vlog for the details.

STEP 5

Finally, you can finish your door as you see fit.

For me to finish the space in continuity with my other work and rooms, I paint it Pure Earth – a soft, subtle tone.

Now my eyesore is gone, and I can get carry on. I finish the baseboards up to the wall furnace I have next to tackle.

In addition, I also share an exciting story to come in my vlog above!

Now it’s your turn to tell me… would you do an arched hollow core door? Or would you do the panel style I’ve done before? Let me hear it in comments below. What is more, also pin and share so others can enjoy this free tutorial.

Before you go, be sure to sign up for my FREE newsletter. Until next time!

INSTAGRAM | FACEBOOK | YOUTUBE

In the mood for more tutorials like this arched hollow core door? See these:

The post Arched Hollow Core Door DIY appeared first on Livin' Real with Larissa.

As you may recall, in my last post, my family room went to the next level. woot!

Here is where I’m at beginning today…

In case you’re wondering what this room looks like before I started, take a peek at these projects below:

• Family Room Demolition Begins
• Family Room Lighting
• Hide Wiring in Open Ceiling
• DIY Open Staircase
• Open Staircase Update
• Family Room Update
• Wall to Ceiling Transition
• Paint an Open Beam Ceiling
• DIY Accent Wall

whew!

Now, as you can see the staircase is quite the project to begin with. However, I’m finally seeing my sweat equity show up in the finish.

Before even beginning on the trim, I replace all five outlets. eep! That was nuts because they were all on different UNMARKED breakers.

WHY??? Why didn’t someone at least mark them on the breaker box? That is a pet peeve of mine, just sayin’.

BEGINNING OF THE END

My focus to get things finished elsewise is the trim. I started the baseboard and ceiling to wall transitions previously. This time around, the staircase openings, doorframes, and window trim need addressed.

First, I need to decide if I’m going to adhere to local code or keep it as I want… open. (code here is a 4″ diameter object may not pass thru the openings)

To start, I rip and cut the 1″x 4″ pine wood to frame the outside of the openings same as I did for the inside of the staircase.

Then, once I measure each piece, I attach as I go using my brad nailer.

As I discuss in my vlog below, I want to see it framed up before I decide on adding balusters or how I will finish it off with paint or stain.

What would you do?

Not only did I open the staircase walls to promote light entering in, but also because I want the rooms to flow. I need to take into account the kitchen, the entry, the staircase, and the family room. Each face of the trim needs to work with the other.

After much consideration and walking around the rooms in a 360° fashion, I decide I want the open staircase trim to invite the eyes in. What I mean is when you look at the staircase, I don’t want your eye to be stopped by the framework, much like the seven windows in my dining area of my previous home.

If I created a dark or contrasting frame, it keeps the eye from traveling beyond as I explain below.

PAINT IT IS

However, not just these openings need trim, but also my entry door, closet door, window trim and baseboard.

Before I can paint, I need to caulk, caulk, and fill in nail holes and then prep the surfaces with a good cleaning.

As a result of my choosing to leave the openings as-is as far as open wide, I choose to paint the open staircase trim the same creamy white (white veil) as I use on my textured family room walls and in my new entry.

Do you see how when the trim vanishes into the wall you eye is draw through the openings?

Yes, I have a hot mess ceiling in my kitchen. Time is all I need… and money. {{wink,wink}}

My kids came home and said things like, “wow… it’s so much brighter in here!” “the stairs feel so much more open now”.

I agree. As I explain in my vlog above, I went with this finish for many reasons.

What would you have done if this were your space?

With pending finish in the staircase with new treads, paint, and combining that with what I plan for the kitchen/dining, I’m smitten with this solution.

I’ve ran out of time to finish all the baseboard but only need two more walls finished. However, you can see the closet and window trim.

There’s still my weight stand I made from a curbside bedframe. woot!

I will be working a design for the door similar to my hollow core door DIY HERE. What is more, I still have the rest of the baseboard and what I’ll be doing to dress up the gas wall furnace I’ve shown before.

THERE IS LIGHT

But what a difference in this space!! Not only that, but in my staircase and the view from the kitchen.

This is the view midday without lights on and with lights below.

In my lighting post linked at the top, I only had two small wall sconces on the right side of the entry into the room. Now we can see!

Oh, and Loula approves. (though that boob light has got to GO!)

My goal, as always, is to inspire you to make your house your home. I’m working on my own spaces when time allows and hoping you’ll share with others so they can be inspired too.

Before you go, be sure to sign up for my FREE newsletter. Until next time!

INSTAGRAM | FACEBOOK | YOUTUBE

Now that you’re in the mood, here are more DIY projects like this open staircase trim:

The post Open Staircase Trim appeared first on Livin' Real with Larissa.

Many of you know my recent new move and journey have been related to the weather in many facets. If inclement weather, I work inside. If gorgeously sunny and dry, outside I go!

Since the last weekend predicted not just rain, but storms, I decide to head back to my family room remodel and knock out as much as time affords me.

Here’s where I left off three months ago in late spring.

Yeah, fun to look at all summer, eh?

With storms rolling in, I decide to put my efforts back inside my home.

However, do take a peek at my summer work in these recent posts:

• Backyard official beginning
• Installing my French drain
• Felling the rotted trees
• Clearing the terrace
• Building my stone retaining wall
• DIY slope stairs
• DIY fire pit
• Free hammock stand build plans
• Free lean-to shed plans
• When to stain pressure treated wood

So, you can see I’ve kept pretty busy since moving in less than 10 months ago. What is more, here are the posts showing my previous work on my family room remodel:

• Family Room Demolition Begins
• Family Room Lighting
• Hide Wiring in Open Ceiling
• DIY Open Staircase
• Open Staircase Update
• Family Room Update
• Wall to Ceiling Transition
• Paint an Open Beam Ceiling

whew!

And that doesn’t count all the other projects in this house and more.

Okay, as a glutton for sweat equity stands before you, let’s get this remodel back in the active phase, shall we?

BACK IN THE SADDLE

Okay, so you can see that it’s time the walls get much-needed love. That begins with me finishing the drywall mudding after removing the drop-ceiling and panels on the walls.

If you recall, when I built my son’s bedroom (first project in this home) I find I’m not a huge fan of drywall. ahem

That means I have been dreading the sanding part of finishing these walls.

The mudding part is… meh. But the mess from sanding is totally unfun.

Here’s the result of me spending most of an entire day taping and mudding. Then, it needs to cure until next day.

I mention in my vlog below that I knew I was running out of topping joint compound, so I head to the store.

After that, I pull an executive decision to make a major change that I actually am hoping would come to fruition.

Texture it is!! As someone with European background, I’ve always been drawn to certain styles. This time, I’m making it happen for me.

yippee!!

First, I use the TJC (topping joint compound) to make layers. AND THAT MEANS NO SANDING!

Then, while that cures, I set to start my DIY accent wall on the new drywall at the end of the room.

But first… I do have to sand this wall. grrr…

Here’s my setup to prevent a headache later on.

JUST KEEP ROLLIN’

As if my traps, shoulders, and hands aren’t tired already, it’s time to paint. All the work has paid off, and I can see the end!!

I’m using the same creamy white color I used in my entry, called White Veil in eggshell finish.

I’ll give bonus points to those that know what I use to cover my roller and pan while waiting for first coat to cure. (answer is in my vlog)

Waiting for the paint to cure is the hard part.

But that can mean that leaves time to have at another part of the room.

DIY ACCENT WALL

Last but not least, it’s time to create this accent wall.

Why an accent wall? This gives an opportunity to create dimension in an otherwise boxy room, add style and a bit of color (as my space is pretty dark).

While you can do anything to create an accent, I’m choosing to use the scrap wood from framing my staircase openings.

Thankfully, I didn’t burn them and still have them in the rafters of my garage (see vlog).

First, I add the baseboard to my wall so I can have accurate measurements. Keep in mind your own baseboard depth. Mine is ¾”, so my strips are ¾” wide and no greater in depth than that (my scraps are ½”).

Then, I find center and measure out 1 ½” from center each way creating a 3″ gap between my twelve strips. That also means the strip sections are 22″ apart. Feel free to adjust that spacing for your own needs.

Once, I have all the marks in place, I cut the strips to length and attach to the wall using my nailer and 1 ½” brad nails. However, since these strips are thin, make sure to attach at the center, then use a level to assure straight lines on top and bottom.

Once you have your trim pieces attached, use spackling or wood filler to fill nail holes and sand smooth. I didn’t feel the need to caulk the strips, but you can do that if your walls need it.

OOH… BLUE

And we get to paint again… WOOT!

This time, I’m using Norwegian Blue and the same Pure Earth I use in my DIY arched wainscoting tutorial. I want to bring a soothing vibe to this space and tie in my repurposed door mirror as well as other pieces I already have.

Finally, after waiting the summer months to get back into my family room remodel project, it’s time to see a new chapter.

FAMILY ROOM CONTINUES

The paint really creates an entirely different feel from the before when I moved in. (see link above)

No more drop ceiling, no more only two wall sconces for light (I installed eight instead), no more faux wood panels, and an open staircase that still needs finishing.

And how about that DIY accent wall? eep!

And even more, I adore the texture on the other walls.

As you can tell, there’s still much more to do, so be sure be sure to sign up for my FREE newsletter to join the family and get updated alerts.

And… pin and share to inspire others too!

Until next time!

INSTAGRAM | FACEBOOK | YOUTUBE

While you’re at it, here is more like this DIY accent wall project:

The post DIY Accent Wall appeared first on Livin' Real with Larissa.

Ever heard of a blind date with a book?

I’ve not only seen them in movies but also have found they’re quite entertaining for the giver and the receiver.

Let me ‘splain.

WHATCHA TALKIN’ ‘BOUT

Before you send me to the looney bin… consider heading to the donation bin or sale at your local library, thrift store… you get the idea. With the era of online everything, books are fast becoming a lost joy to many.

Not in my family! We are confessed bibliophiles and are eager to enjoy a book at any moment we can.

While I don’t often have time for a long sit down read, I do still grab a few pages whenever I can.

And as far as my six kiddos go, there are numerous times I have had to punish them over the years (YES, punish them) because they were deep diving into a book instead of schoolwork or chores.

Believe me, I consider myself blessed that that is a reality in my home. But like anything, deviation from responsibilities is still a no-no.

Okay, so the idea is to create a whimsical clue-driven “date”. Much like your friend says, “I know this guy I know you’ll like once you get to know him”.

You see me shopping for this blind date book DIY up above. Here’s what my youngest and I come home with to gift to someone using the Little Free Libraries in our city.

Since she is co-creating these dates with me, we primarily focus on children’s literature. However, this tutorial is for children of any age! (1-100!) And these make for wonderful gifts for any and all occasions.

Some of the thrifted books have marker on them, price tags, etc. That is perfectly fine as we can remove that at home or call it part of the whimsy of this treasure hunt.

WHAT NEXT?

Once we have our titles in hand, we head to our own scrap stash as well as the local dollar store to get clues that will give this blind date book DIY enticing qualities.

We select stickers, washi tape, notepads, pencils, and plan to make our own bookmarks in addition to the magnetic ones we found as well.

In all, we spent less than $2 for the book and materials to create this blind date.

Here’s what you’ll need:

• shipping paper, wrapping paper, newspaper or comics, etc.
• glue stick
• tape
• scissors
• drawing materials – colored pencils, pens, markers, etc.
• plus any extras you want that will fit in a thin pocket on your book.

I am outlining the steps below in written form. At the same time, the best way to see this in action is in our vlog below.

STEP 1

Now that you have your books, it’s time to get them ready for their date!

First, cut your paper to fit – that means tall enough to double over the front and back. Also, wide enough that each side is as wide as the book cover (see video for details)

Once you have your paper cut, here is one of many ways to fold it for optimal pockets. You’re basically making right angles on the front and back side – similar to gift wrapping. The video above really shows this best.

STEP 2

Then, beginning with the two front folds, bring them across to the opposite edge of the book and crease. Tape down at corners to create pockets. However, when you get to the last fold, for a clean finish use a glue stick or double-sided tape to conceal your edge.

Close up the bottom as you would when wrapping a gift – tuck in the side edges, fold bottom in first followed by top and tape shut.

STEP 3

This is the fun part!! Time to fill your blind date with all sorts of clues to what the story inside is all about. Or just have fun adding little memory keepers, sweet treats, etc.

Since we’re making these for basically strangers, we’re keeping it neutral. What is more, to keep this budget-friendly, we divide up the pack of 3 notepads into 6 smaller pads and use washi tape to decorate the top. See vlog above for how to make the backing.

What a blast we have creating bookmarks, writing up a snippet to keep the date fun, as well as getting our creative juices flowing in every facet.

Honestly, my girl and I got so caught up in creating that we didn’t want to stop! WARNING: it’s addictive!

Gotta love Loula watching every bit.

STEP 5

Finally, in case you’re wondering how to put it all together, take a look at these three examples:

To inspire you, here are the titles we chose and what we wrote on each one:

• Vacation Under the Volcano – Magic Treehouse Book: “Ready for a vacation with some heat?”
• Midnight on the Moon – Magic Treehouse Book: “This lunar adventure is the last clue.”
• Five Smooth Stones – My America, Hope’s Diary: “Does this revolutionary tale end with her family reunion?”
• The First Four Years – Little House Series: ” Moving into her own little house, this family begins a journey.”
• Anne of the Island – Anne of Green Gables Series: “Living on a Canadian island offers adventure for this redheaded teen.”
• Island of the Blue Dolphins: “Can she survive being left on this island?”
• Meet Addy – American Girl Series: “Get to know an 1864 American girl.”
• Black Beauty: ” This mane character finds a happy ending.”

We also added an age suggested reading as well as where to find this tutorial.

Then, of course, we had a blast delivering the books all over town. We have over a dozen in our area both publicly and privately owned. That makes my heart skip-happy!

Want to know if there’s any in your area? Use the world map HERE.

LET US KNOW!

First, are you ready for a blind date now?

Second, would you do this DIY project for a gift or these free libraries?

Leave some comment love below as well as share what your favorite book is – we’re always looking for more books to read!

Pin and share to inspire others – it’s the easiest, smartest thing to do. ahem.

Before you go, be sure to sign up for my FREE newsletter. Until next time!

INSTAGRAM | FACEBOOK | YOUTUBE

In the mood for more creative fun like this blind date book DIY? Check these out:

The post Blind Date Book DIY appeared first on Livin' Real with Larissa.

You see, about this time last year, I am finishing my first-year post-divorce with summer coming to a quick close.

Enter in Mary Jo.

I share this story in my vlog below, so be sure to take a peek.

Of course, I couldn’t say no to such a sweet gal.

So, for Mary Jo, I want to breathe new life into these step back side tables so they have many more years of enjoyment in her home.

Initially, Mary Jo kept the drawers as she only wanted the tabletops refinished. But that quickly changed. (you’ll see that in a bit)

However, I haven’t really worked on furniture for several years now. You can see my full project gallery HERE.

REFINISHING

First, I sand down the top surfaces with my orbital sander as well as hand-sanding.

Isn’t that wood GORGEOUS?!

As Mary Jo states, “There is absolutely nothing wrong with these tables. They’re solid wood, and I like them”.

Honestly, seeing all the love the tables received over many years (they originally belonged to Mary Jo’s inlaws), is a sweet moment.

Oh, and did you see what I found inside them in my vlog?

Crazy, cool!

They have build-up on the legs, so I use my 2:1 water/vinegar mix to refresh them.

Mary Jo requests that the tops match the skirt and legs, so I choose Early American stain that I’ve used numerous times before.

As soon as I stain and let cure as directions advise, I then apply a satin poly topcoat.

Since I use a oil-based topcoat, it needs four hours to cure. Then, I use steel wool to buff, then clean, and topcoat again.

Now, I did end up getting the drawers because I am refreshing all of this and want these tables to be cohesive. I even take a minute to polish those lovely brass batwing pulls.

MEANWHILE

If you know me, I don’t have much time to spare, so during the four hours of the first coat cure time, I set my mind to FINALLY pressure washing my driveway.

If you recall, during my garage build, the builders had no choice but to make a wicked mess. I spent freezing time trying to get off what I could, promising myself that when I am finally able, I will get that thing clean one way or another.

You can see how previous owners did a bit of cleaning before listing and it was so annoying to walk out my door and see it. tsk.

Now it is GONE.

Part of the fun of pressure washing is getting rid of dirt and grime, even mentally.

RESTORED

Now, back to these step back side tables getting a new life!

Here they are ready for Mary Jo and her sweet pup, Sadie.

Mary Jo said, “They look like they’ve never been damaged.”

And she shares a few other amazing savory bits of advice in my vlog. What a treasure you are, Mary Jo!

Hopefully, you’re feeling inspired in some form. Leave some comment love below as well as pin and share to inspire others.

Before you go, be sure to sign up for my FREE newsletter. Until next time!

INSTAGRAM | FACEBOOK | YOUTUBE

For more inspiration like these step back side tables, check out these past posts:

The post Step Back Side Tables appeared first on Livin' Real with Larissa.

Well, I aim to answer a few questions, show what I do for my own projects, as well as share a bit of my latest journey of healing.

Ya gotta love that look Loula is giving the camera. “Ain’t no deer getting through here!”

Before I jump into today’s post, you want to take a look at where it all started:

• backyard official beginning
• installing my French drain
• felling the rotted trees
• clearing the terrace
• building my stone retaining wall
• DIY slope stairs
• DIY fire pit
• Free hammock stand build plans
• Free lean-to shed plans

So… you can see I’ve been a bit busy this summer and am now in the best shape ever. haha.

SMOKE BE GONE

Since my last post where I share my build plans for a lean-to storing our bikes, I need to show you how I am able to finally finish my project after a week-long wildfire smoke made our air toxic.

First, I need to add the soffit vent to keep out birds, bats, pests of the stinging variety, etc.

As I mention in my previous post, I salvaged all sorts of “trash” (aka. #trashure) from my new garage build that I use for this build. That includes these pieces of soffit vent.

To make it fit in my lean-to, I cut down the panel to size and insert under the front fascia panel making sure to overlap them. My vlog below shows it best.

After that bit is complete, I am FINALLY able to stain the doors I built and more.

BUT WHEN?

However, before I get to that, how do I know when to stain pressure treated wood?

Well… it depends on:

• how long has the wood been exposed to the elements (aka. oxidized)?
• has your area been humid or dry?
• how green was the wood when installed?
• is the wood super heavy or on the lighter side?
• does water bead on it or only take a minute to soak in?
• is your wood exposed to foot traffic? (deck vs fence)
• do you have enough time for the stain to properly cure? (depending on manufacturer, approx. 24 hours of no traffic or rain)

All these questions give you an idea of if your wood is ready for stain.

Obviously, if it’s aged at least 90 days in a season of warm and arid environment, then you can assume you’re good to go. That is as long as you clean it first. An oxalic acid-based wood cleaner is recommended first before staining.

However, if it’s a new build, it may bode well to wait 30-90 days before staining.

If you rush the process, the wood can resist your product, and you waste your time and money invested. You may get premature peeling and fading.

In a couple of my past projects, here’s what happened:

• previous home pergola – stained within two weeks with a semi-transparent stain using brush and roller. It didn’t hold as long – it started to chip/peel after five years. That’s still a good bit of time, but had I waited, I think it would have lasted longer. See the update HERE.
• previous home privacy fence – stained with semi-transparent stain same week with solid stain using a sprayer. Slightly faded in three years.

STAIN TIME

Since I built my slope steps over 30 days ago and my hammock stand shortly after, I am staining them at the same time as my shed doors.

But first… I need to paint the siding J channel to match my house color as that will make my eye twitch f.o.r.e.v.e.r.

Then, I use Olympic Stain in Solid Timberline to stain the doors I recently built.

I wanted a cedar-ish vibe but a bit darker than what’s sold in stores. Most of the cedar stains are plain ugly to me – they look like an orange crayon and nothing like the real cedar I used on my previous’ bike shed.

Not only does it only take one coat, but this solid stain will last up to 25 years when done right. I used a solid on my cedar firepit set last year and it still looks fabulous.

There are other variations of stain: solid, semi-transparent, or transparent.

• solid offers the best protection for up to 25 years coverage. but no grain visibility
• semi-transparent is a 10-year protection and as it states, is a semi-transparent grain visibility
• transparent is the least protection maxing out at 4 years for a deck and 6 years for a fence and showcases the grain fully

My house siding is still blue in real life, but I quickly edited the siding in these photos so I could see what it will eventually look like.

NEXT STEPS… LITERALLY

Next up (literally) As soon as I am done with my lean-to, I head out back to assess my slope stairs and hammock stand. Originally, I thought I would need to wait closer to three months for the wood to cure before staining. However, with our high temps and dry days, it helps me know when to stain pressure treated wood.

See my vlog below for details and more to the story I’ll share in a bit.

I am using my brush for this because I need to get into tight areas, want to apply it thickly, and also keep it off the surrounding areas without having to cover everything.

Can you beat this view?

Then, I need to do more clearing so I can make use of my hammock. (see first photo)

Last, but not least, I re-stain the base of my fire pit furniture to have it all gel together. DIY concrete table tutorial HERE.

REFRESHED

With a sigh of relief, my new builds mixed with old builds are cohesive and ready for many more summers (and winters) to come.

I’m not only smitten with the color and how it blends into nature perfectly, I also can see how my sweat equity is paying off.

If you see me chillaxin’ out there, wave and keep going as it’s not often! bwahaha!!

Actually, I’ve learned how to just be more and more each day.

Oh… and this was the “before” this spring…

If you have any questions about when to stain pressure treated wood, feel free to leave a comment or send me a message. I’m happy to help!

DON’T MISS THIS

I wouldn’t be real if I didn’t share another part of the story in these photos that you can’t see.

While I work on these builds I’m working on healing as well.

In the last few weeks, I’ve redirected my old brand, Prodigal Pieces, to Livin’ Real with Larissa.

That took a HUGE leap of faith for me.

Why?

Well, when you switch domains, you literally have to start over.

No income, my high ranking lost and the rug pulled out in more ways than one.

Over the last few months, I’ve had to prove to the g00gle gods that I am worthy.

After feeling I establish myself enough, I apply to have my ads back (though I’d love to be without, but a gal and her kids need to eat)

I was DENIED.

sunk.

I knew that I would lose income but didn’t think I’d have to be at this point.

On top of that, there are many other day-to-day troubles looming.

However, I have the best ad company, Raptive, who went to bat for me without even knowing.

They received the denial and instantly file a ticket to contest my site being valid.

After waiting what seems like an eternity, I am finally APPROVED.

That means ads are back and I earned a whopping $.41 the first day back.

You see, I still have to prove worthy for ad companies to want to place ads here.

Since that first day, I earned $4, so… that’s an increase.

And Lord willing, I will continue to, at least, get back to where I can take care of my bills.

As a single mom, I do everything I can to keep on top of things.

IT’S JUST CHANGE

During the few weeks of redirecting, awaiting approval, my CPTSD kicks in and I have to have those hidden battles.

And yet… GOD.

As I mention in my vlog above, the one day I really carry a heavy load, I find paper.

Yep, paper.

You know it as a dollar bill.

However, in my adult life, I choose to see those “worthless” pennies as a sign that God will never forget me and will provide.

To find that 100 pennies (in paper form) I am BLOWN AWAY.

100 TIMES God is promising me that I will be okay.

The next day, a nickel.

However, I want to ask, how can you not see God?

While I’m being facetious, I’m truly speaking real from the heart.

Yes, this is a heavy-hitting, heart-felt post and I feel the drive to share it with you.

Despite having wretched hard days, especially as of late, I know God is there.

How?

The next four days I find more and more coins (signs) while on walks when I’m having a hard time.

The last day, I found that top pile of change all in one place.

It took my breath away… and tears. As if God is saying I won’t just bless you in one way, but in many forms.

NOT JUST METAL AND PAPER

On top of that, the day after I found the dollar bill, I was hitting a low again seeing my income at $0.

I spent all day creating content and exhausted. In a heartbeat, I fell asleep on my bed after a long walk with Loula, trying not to fret.

Then, I wake to a heavy downpour outside and see sun at the same time.

I jump up and whisper, “rainbow”.

I knew that this is the perfect condition for a rainbow.

Running to my bedroom window, I see a rainbow silently form.

Managing to eek out through tears, “No way You did this for me.”

And yet I know God did.

IT’S DIFFERENT

If we whisper our needs to that silent quiet when we can’t even take a step, we are heard.

As a part of my new journey and even a new brand name, Livin’ Real with Larissa, I’m coming from a REAL look at what it is like for me.

It’s different for you, though.

You are not me.

What brings you joy, true joy, is deep inside that only the One who…

“…created my inward parts; you knit me together in my mother’s womb.
I will praise you because I have been remarkably and wondrously made. Your works are wondrous, and I know this very well.
My bones were not hidden from you when I was made in secret, when I was formed in the depths of the earth.
Your eyes saw me when I was formless; all my days were written in your book and planned before a single one of them began” ~ Psalm 139:13-16 CSB

Those are powerful words. And if I’m being honest, the part, “knit me together in my mother’s womb” has sucker-punched me at times.

I’ve shared my story of being raised by a narcissist mother – the one who’s womb I was knit in.

Yeah, that kinda stings.

But back to my original statement – it’s different.

The way God works in my life is not going to be the way God works in your life.

I may see the traces in a tiny flower, while another person would walk right past that flower.

I don’t know about you, but I want a God that knows ME – the deepest parts of me.

_________________________________________________________________________________________

May you find blessing in my sharing my journey as I know I’m not alone. Please feel free to share as well!

Before you go, be sure to sign up for my FREE newsletter. Until next time!

INSTAGRAM | FACEBOOK | YOUTUBE

While you’re at it, more projects like when to stain pressure treated wood:

The post When to Stain Pressure Treated Wood appeared first on Livin' Real with Larissa.

With winter basically peeking around the corner in my neck of the woods, I have to start thinking ahead. One of the projects I want done before the snow flies is making use of this stash of leftovers stored on the side of my house.

There is not only wonderful lumber in here, but also siding, trim, singles, and more. eep!

Where did all this come from? Thankfully, yours truly is a waste-not-want-not kinda gal. While my new garage was being built, the builders requested a dumpster for the “trash”.

I, however, did not want to spend $300 and would go out every single day for about an hour and separate the trash from the #trashure.

Not only was I able to give away oodles of scraps. hardware, and lumber to like-minded folk, but I also kept loot for my own schemes plans… mwahahaha.

That brings me to today.

DON’T BUY, BUILD

In case you’re wondering, I’m not new to this lean-to shed build plans rodeo.

In fact, I actually built one on my last home, but that was in a different size, style, and material. That shed cost around $800 to build but would have cost $2,500 as a kit.

This time, I am designing it to suit my needs and sharing the free plans with you along with my vlog on my build as well (see below). While I spent less than $300 to build mine by salvaging materials, my build definitely costs less than $2K to build.

First, take a look at where I’m placing my lean-to.

lean-to [ˈliːntuː] noun: a building sharing one wall with a larger building and having a roof that leans against that wall.

My (currently) blue home has this side with unsightly pumps and is THE ONLY wall that offers the space that I won’t be adding a window to – Lord willing.

Some things to consider:

• your roof line
• direction of weather and/or sun
• space needed to accommodate
• ground features – I have a slight slope away from the house
• you will need at least 3′ of space around each pump/meter/etc.
• what will your lean-to be used for – mine will house our five bikes, but can be easily used for most anything

FOUNDATION IS KEY

Like anything, the foundation is key to many things. We want these lean-to shed build plans to succeed, so we need to make sure the base is ready to go for our build.

For my purposes, I clear the area and make sure it is level from front-to-back and side-to side.

Since I had PLENTY of pea gravel left from my recent DIY fire pit tutorial, I use that as my base. It measures 70″ x 49″ and is a couple inches deep.

READY TO BUILD?

First, my plans are for the frame, doors, and sheathing only. If you use cedar pickets or similar as I did in my previous shed build, you will not need sheathing. Also, I used remnant asphalt shingles. You could use corrugated materials, rolled roofing, metal roofing, and other options as well.

Scrap lumber from my garage build

Likewise, here are a few things I learned after I built my lean-to:

• I designed my shed with the roof frame rafters (sides) resting exactly on top of the walls). That worked for me and was better in my previous shed design, However, with using vinyl siding, the J channel ended up butting up to instead of inside and under the rafters/fascia. That does not affect rain entry, but if you use a different depth material, you may need to adjust the width of the roof. Keep that in mind depending on what siding material you are using.
• Due to the wildfire smoke at the time of my building, I am not able to yet complete the build with soffit vent, etc. I will update this post as soon as the smoke clears.

Next, let’s take a look at our materials and tools needed. Be sure to check your local building codes or permits – this plan is for a 12:2 pitch roof.

Feel free to resource materials them via second-hand options like Marketplace, Craigslist curbside, and so on. I shop Curb le Chic all the time for building materials. {{wink, wink}}

Also, I bought in lengths that fit in my vehicle, so consider buying longer boards to save and less scrap.

TERMS OF USE: If you want to use these free lean-to shed build plans for any function, you agree to the following: it cannot be shared or distributed for monetary gain in any way, it may not be modified in any way, and you may not claim the work as your own.

Materials:

• base materials: gravel, landscaping fabric, or pavers – your choice
• 16 – 2″ x 4″ x 8″ pressure treated studs (I tend to buy one extra… just in case )
• 1 – ⅝” x 4′ x 8′ OSB sheathing
• 2 – ½” x 4′ x 8′ OSB sheathing
• 10 – 1″ x 4″ x 8″ pressure treated boards
• 1 – 11/32″ x 4 x 8′ Ply-bead plywood siding panel (or similar)
• 3″ exterior screws for framing
• 1 ½” exterior screws for door frames
• 1″ screws for door panel
• 2 ½” screws if adding bike mounts (see steps below)
• roof underlayment – there are places you can source remnant pieces – ask a contractor
• 6 – 3″ hinges
• 1 – latch
• flashing – drip edge for front edge, side edges, fascia, and wall to roof flashing – this will depend on what you roof and side with
• flashing nails
• siding materials – fence pickets are a great way to save $ and you can use plywood siding, etc.
• roofing materials – rolled roof, shingles, metal, corrugated – your choice
• finish materials – paint/stain, whatever you desire
• 5 bike hooks if building a bike shed

Tools:

• circular saw
• jigsaw
• miter saw or miter box
• pocket hole jig
• rip cut jig or table saw
• drill with coordinating bits
• tape measure
• builders square
• level
• safety gear
• pencil

Cut list: 1 0 – 2″ x 4″ x 8″ ripped in half creating 20 – 1 ½” x 1 ½” studs

Back wall:

• 2 – 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 96′ studs
• 4 – 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 92″ studs
• 2 – 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 53″ bottom and top plates

Side Walls:

• 2 – 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 96″ cut at 15° on one end
• 2 – 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 84″ cut at 15° on one end
• 4 – 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 96″ left uncut until wall frame assembled (see below)
• 1 – 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 42 ¼” top plate – cut both ends on matching 15° angles
• 1 – 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 42 ¼” bottom plate
• 2 – 2″ x 4″ x 63″ header and footer to connect front of side walls

Roof:

• 2 – 2″ x 4″ x 53″ for roof side rafters – cut both ends on matching 15° angles
• 2 – 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 52 ½” roof ledgers – cut both ends on matching 15° angles
• 2 – 2″ x 4″ x 63″ roof rafters top and bottom fascia

Facing:

• 1 – 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 53″ top face plate
• 2 – 1″ x 4″ x 81 ⅝” for front facing unnotched
• 2 – 1″ x 4″ x 81 ⅝” for inside facing – mirrored notches on top end at 2 ½” in from inside edge and 2″ from top edge (see photos below)
• 1 – 1″ x 4″ x 12″ header doorstop

Doors:

• 4 – 1″ x 4″ x 78″ styles for door frame long sides
• 6 – 1″ x 4″ x 21 ⅞” rails for top, middle, bottom frame with ¾” pocket joints on both ends
• 2 – 28″ x 77″ beaded plywood panels

The vlog above shows the steps and some fun too.

STEP 1

Now that you have all your pieces cut and your hardware ready to go, let’s build the back wall first.

I did not pre-drill, but you can if you’re concerned about splitting. Also, I build these by myself, so it’s definitely doable, but having a helper makes the job go quicker.

This helper is pulling out staples leftover from the garage builders.

STEP 2

Next, let’s assemble the side walls.

note: my photos are how I saw fit to build according to the lengths of lumber I had on hand. However, my plans have everything spaced evenly. In typical framing, your studs are 16″ on center, so keep within that spacing if you have different lengths as well.

Measure the base plate from each side inward at 14 ½”. Place two of the ripped stud boards, on the frame and mark the lengths. Cut the angle and attach to top and bottom plates using 3″ screws.

STEP 3

After you have your wall frame pieces ready, it’s time to attach them to your wall. If you know where your building studs are, that is a great place to attach your lean-to walls.

Again, using your 3″ exterior screws, attach your frame on all sides (top, bottom, and sides). Be sure to check for level on all faces as this wall will affect all others.

STEP 4

Then, we attach the wall frames on the outside end of our wall frame as shown, as well as anchor to the house wall. MAKE SURE ALL FACES ARE LEVEL – a friendly reminder. {{wink, wink}}

STEP 5

Congrats on building a skeleton! Now we need to make sure it stays steady. Using your 3″ screws, attach the base plate and header.

You can see I have an extra 2″ x 4″ resting under the base plate as I have that slight slope to deal with.

STEP 6

Next, we need to build the roof frame. For heat’s sake and for level surface to work on, I dry fit my roof in my garage, marked it all, and then assembled on site.

Typically, the ledgers are at 24″ intervals, but I place mine evenly at 21″ from inside edge of frame.

As I mention in my vlog above, I did not have a truck for materials, so I had the store rip and cut my sheets so I can haul them home.

Not bad, eh?

Sheathing is cut into 24″ widths and the plywood for doors is ripped at 30″ (I cut it to size at home since I didn’t know exact size yet).

I bought ½” sheathing for the sides and ⅝” for the roof – though I could have used ½” for it all. It just depends on what you’re covering your roof with.

So, instead of one full panel on my roof, I’m piecing it together and needed an extra ledger to hold where the sheathing meets.

Once I have the sheathing in place, I do attach with screws so I have the holes ready for assembly on site. And while I am able, I cut underlayment as well and also piece together my leftover shingles.

Can I just say the angels sang because I only had a couple centimeters of remnant left!! I literally was able to salvage JUST ENOUGH ridge and regular shingles to make a quilt of roofing.

WOOT, WOOT!

Once I had them as I want (a ⅜” overhang for the drip edge) I mark the back in number order and then wash them off.

I told ya… I literally dug these bits out every day as the builders made a “trash” pile.

STEP 7

Up on the roof top, Larissa builds! Time to add our roof frame to our lean-to shed build plans and attach (best seen in the vlog above)

Then, attach the sheathing, followed by the drip edge. You want the bottom drip edge under the underlayment.

Do you know I had a near full roll of underlayment in my “trash” pile? eep!

Next, on top of sheathing, you want underlayment followed by the drip edge on the sides.

To be honest, I’ve not done flashing quite like this, so I learned how to box the ends of the front drip edge.

I impressed myself with my sewing skills because it’s literally the same thing as boxing in fabric. ha!

I show it best in my vlog, but it’s basically:

• add 2″ to each end of your drip edge measurement
• cut on the 2″ mark up to the edge
• cut a 45° angle from the edge of the flashing to the drip edge
• use a block of wood to help shape and bend to make a corner (see video – I practiced on scrap first)

The side drip edge needs to come down the roof over that corner. It was pretty simple!

At this point you then add shingles or whatever roofing you want to use, followed by fascia flashing and wall to roof flashing.

STEP 8

Finally, the side walls get less nakey and we add the sheathing.

I explain in my vlog demo above how I cut the angles to match the 12:2 pitch of the roof.

Using your SCREWS, attach on your studs at 12″ spacing on edges and 16″ on face.

STEP 9

Next, in order for me to add siding, I want to add my face framing as this will allow me to create an edge that the siding butts up against.

I start with nailing the two front 1″ x 4″ x 81 ⅝” to the front stud leaving a ¾” edge off to the outside for siding as well as a ¾” edge inside. MAKE SURE to then attach the front face frame uprights using 2 ½” screws driving into the stud. These will hold your doors and key to making sure they don’t fall down.

Then, I attach the other two notched 1″ x 4″ x 81 ⅝” on the inside creating a casing.

Also, in this picture above, I add another ripped 1″ x 4″ as a top frame. I intend to dress that up once I can add the soffit vent cover. I have scrap vinyl soffit panels for that, but even a wire mesh would keep unwanted critters out.

sidenote: I just want to not here that at this point, I didn’t know that the wildfire smoke coming down from Canada was affecting my area. As soon as I hung the siding, I began to feel ill. I had to take a break and then found out the next day what was going on. That led me to have less-than-desirable filming and photos to be able to share with you as I’m still currently keeping my fanny inside since I’ve had past lung issues. My shed still needs a few finishing touches, so please feel free to ask questions and I’ll update pics when able.

STEP 10

This is where you get to add your choice of siding.

For me, it would have been insane of me to not use my remnant pieces from my “trash”.

I use more of the roofing underlayment I have excess of and attach to the walls. Don’t you know I gave away a HUGE bucket of plastic cap nails you need for attaching this? Instead, I use what I have.

Unfortunately, it’s at this point that I start to suffer from the wildfire smoke coming down from Canada. Though, I didn’t know it yet. Can you see the haze of smoke in the air?

I had one mis-cut. Would you have fixed it? I did!! That would have drove me cray-cray.

STEP 11

Last, but not least, it’s time to build the doors. First, build your frames using your 1 ½” screws and pre-cut pieces that have pocket joints drilled for ¾” thickness in the rails to join them to the styles.

Now that your doorframe is facing down, you can attach your pre-cut panels to the back with your 1″ screws.

Next, add your three 3″ hinges at center and two inches in from either end. Hang on face frame making sure all is level.

Then, add your closure hardware/latch.

I mention in my vlog what I still need to do to finish the exterior as soon as the wildfire smoke clears.

Thankfully, I was able to add blocks for bike mounts with hooks and get rid of those awful tarps out back.

I attach using 2 ½” screws in the pocket joints as well as 3″ screws to attach to wall for added support of the bikes.

Notice in the photo above I added a scrap of 1″ x 4″ as a doorstop. I also mention in my vlog about additional hardware I’m adding to hold the doors open.

What is more, I move the bike helmet racks from my garage to here. You can see those plans and other free build plans HERE.

GOT QUESTIONS?

And just for fun, here’s a mock-up of what my siding painted (or possibly replaced) will look like on this side, at least. I hope to update pics as soon as I can add the soffit vent cover and stain the front.

Until then, tell me what you’d use this shed for in comments below.

AND… what would you use the rest of the lumber I still have for?

UPDATE: See the end result with stain HERE.

Likewise, pin and share these free lean-to shed build plans so others can enjoy too. Here’s to building with trash!

I salvaged enough materials that I spent less than $300 for this build:

• treated lumber
• raw lumber
• shingles
• underlayment
• roof nails
• flashing nails
• siding, including starting strips, J channels, and finish strips

Before you go, be sure to sign up for my FREE newsletter. Until next time!

INSTAGRAM | FACEBOOK | YOUTUBE

For more free builds like this lean-to shed build plans, see these:

The post Lean-to Shed Build Plans appeared first on Livin' Real with Larissa.

If you didn’t know it already, my project gallery is full of free everything for you.

This story starts with this original backyard project at my previous home as seen HERE.

Then, fast-forward TEN YEARS {{gasp!!}} and I still have this hammock my kids and I adore.

However, it’s been in storage for most of three years because… well… life.

After my move eight months ago and after building my garage six months ago, it’s been tucked up in the rafters… just staring at me.

Not anymore.

Today is the day I am keeping a promise to my kids as well as myself to get this lovely, cushy accessory a much-deserved rebirth, of sorts.

BUILD TIME

Before I get share my latest build with you, keep in mind that at the moment these plans are free and are MINE. See note below.

TERMS OF USE: If you want to create this DIY adjustable hammock stand, you agree to the following: it cannot be shared or distributed for monetary gain in any way, it may not be modified in any way, and you may not claim the work as your own.

I’ve had far too many projects of mine over the last fourteen years stolen or hacked. I hope that my time and skills are not taken for granted. Thank you!

Per usual, I have the plans here below but also have a vlog/video tutorial to help you. You will need both to complete this. I also share my mess-ups and what I learn along the way, so you don’t have to.

In the weeee early morning hours, I have to work outside before the temps head near 100° as they have been lately.

Here is the stop at the top of my terrace that I want, no, HAVE to clean up.

There’s still so much poison ivy and I know I will be glad when it’s done.

For fun, here’s where my backyard space has been through the last couple of months:

• backyard official beginning
• installing my French drain
• felling the rotted trees
• clearing the terrace
• building my stone retaining wall
• DIY slope stairs
• DIY fire pit

WHAT YOU NEED TO START

Initial Cut List:

• 2 – 4″ x 4″ x 48″ (feet)
• 4 – 2″ x 4″ x 72″ (middle side supports)
• 1 – 4″ x 4″ x 8′ (middle center support beam)
• 2 – 4″ x 4″ x 53″ (angled end brace cut on 30° angle)
• 2 – 4″ x 4″ x 25″ (angled end brace supports – cut on angle measuring from corner to 20″ down – diagram below)

Materials: (cost is $140-$150 for wood and hardware)

• 2 – 2″ x 4″ x 8″ pressure treated boards
• 4 – 4″ x 4″ x 8″ pressure treated boards
• 12 – 8″ exterior carriage bolts
• 4 – 6″ exterior carriage bolts
• 16 – ⅜” exterior washers
• 2 – 8″ eye bolts (may already have nut)
• 16 – ⅜” exterior nuts (unless eye bolts have nuts, then only 14)
• 4 – 3″ deck screws
• exterior stain or protectant, if desired

Tools:

• miter saw
• circular saw
• drill with bits (⅜” drill bit – either standard, spade, or forstner – I prefer spade for deep drills like this)
• dill bit extension (or an 8″ or longer bit since these holes need to be deep)
• tape measure
• builder’s square
• rachet with ⁹⁄₁₆” socket (deep socket, if you have it)
• level
• clamps
• scrap wood support blocks
• small sledge or hammer

READY TO GO

Let’s get this build party started!

First, don’t hesitate to reach out to me via email or comment should you have any questions. And I highly recommend having a helper on hand during assembly.

While I have the steps outlined, I also took insane amount of time to draw up sketches for you to make the process clearer.

I do love drafting, but sometimes it’s so far between when I use the program that I half forget how to use it. But it’s always a treat to give my brain a workout.

STEP 1

At this point, you should have completed your shopping and your initial cut list.

Here’s a peek at my chaos as I figure it all out. Notice I’m trying to stay in the wee bit of shade.

You may notice my dry fits don’t match my finished product. That’s because I did the hard work for you. {{wink, wink}}

Now we need to fine-tune those cuts for assembly.

Beginning with the 48″ feet, here’s what they need to look like. I show how to create the notches in my vlog above.

STEP 2

Next, you will create the center beam using your 2″ x 4″‘s and the 4″ x 8″ x 8’ board and your drill with bit. Using a level surface to assemble is key which is why I moved into my garage.

Even though this was my garage “oven” temperature with 90% humidity. eep!

Have your beam supported off the floor with scrap wood so you can completely drill through.

In my vlog, I discuss the benefits of which kind of drill bit to use – forstner, spade, or standard.

First, I measure and mark as shown. I have two diagrams in one for you:

1.  starting at one end and measuring all the marks at once (right measurements)

OR

1. measure 2″ inward from each end (left measurements)
2. find center and measure out towards each end 3″
3. from either the 2″ end measurement or the 3″ center measurements, measure out 10 ¾” creating five holes on each side.

Also, I mention in my vlog that I use a ⅜” bit which makes the holes snug. However, in hindsight, I wonder if I used scrap and tried a ½” bit to see if that would be just as functional. Why? Well, this is meant to be adjustable and if I ever want to adjust this easier then pounding out the bolts (which is fine with me as I want it sturdy), I take that into consideration. But… I feel this setup is strong and safe.

After that, follow the steps I show in my vlog how to make corresponding holes in the 2″ x 4″ supports.

I found it easier to assemble the middle beam first. Using the 8″ carriage bolts, washers, and nuts with clamps to hold.

STEP 3

NOTE: I did NOT assemble all the pieces in my garage. Instead, I dry assembled the center beam and end supports in my garage and then relocated the pieces up on my terrace (see vlog). This entire DIY adjustable hammock stand is heavy and easier to make assembly holes on a level surface.

I rest my assembled beam on the feet and clamp together while using scrap wood support blocks.

Then, I pre-drill holes for the feet attaching to beam, the end braces, and attach the eye bolts on the angled supports as shown in diagrams below.

NOTE: While pre-drilling the holes for the end braces and beam, I used a large Phillips screwdriver or a similar rod to hold the holes in place. And also used it again when assembling to keep everything lined up.

STEP 4

Finally, once all the holes are predrilled and our parts are assembled, we can begin the final assembly on site.

My area is clear and I use landscaping fabric and mulch to create a spot.

First, I place the feet and make sure they’re as level as possible. I even put fabric under them. However, also consider treating the spots you made cuts to better protect them. I will be staining/protecting my stand once the treated wood has cured for about 60-90 days for best absorption.

Huge thank you to my kids that helped me get this done.

Notice Loula is ready for her first try at a hammock – fun story in vlog.

ENJOY

It’s funny… I literally had minutes to enjoy this before the rain poured and continued off and on for a couple days. Much like my fire pit I haven’t used yet because it’s been SO HOT. Soon… soon we will get to enjoy.

In my vlog and in the photo above, you can see the 3″ deck screws I used to hold the brace support in place while I pre-drilled for the carriage bolt.

I look forward to a cool autumn evening in my comfy sweatpants and a blanket gazing up at the fall foliage with a cozy fire down below. mmm…

If you’re hankerin’ to build your own, it is worth the time invested.

UPDATE: See how I stain my recent builds HERE.

Again, feel free to ask any questions. Leave some comment love below as well as pin and share!

Before you go, be sure to sign up for my FREE newsletter. Until next time!

INSTAGRAM | FACEBOOK | YOUTUBE

Check out these past projects for more inspiration like my DIY adjustable hammock stand:

The post DIY Adjustable Hammock Stand appeared first on Livin' Real with Larissa.