Progetto Palermo

Palazzina Cinese

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Mon, 06 Feb 2012 19:25:00 +0000

Palazzina Cinese

The Palazzina Cinese is a strange curious little building just outside Palermo. A bit difficult to reach, it is worth a visit, located within the confines of the Riserva di Monte Pellegrino and just oustide the Parco della Favorita. The work done to the structure in its current form was completed and realized by Giuseppe Venanzio Marvuglia, mainly an architect of municipal structures, in 1799 after being commissioned by Ferdinand IV di Borbone. Marvuglia enlarged the structure and beautified it for Ferdinando and his wife, Maria Carolina. The structure was originally built almost a decade previously by the laywer, Benedetto Lombardo.

At the time of my visit in 2009, the structure was closed for renovations. It has now re-opened to the public and is worthy of a visit since you could explore the park at the same time which is located nearby.

The architecture is a blend of neoclassicism and "cineserie", which was in fashion at the time that the structure was built. The curious mixture of styles give the structure, in my opinion, an air of fantasy, as if stepping into a story book with its bright colors, Chinese prints and silks, and the "oriental" bells that adorn the railings. Check out the video below with offers a wonderful video "tour" of the structure.

Reaching the Palazzina Cinese:

(this section is under construction while I do some research on transportation options...!)

If you have a car, it's probably best to drive. Failing that, you could take a taxi. From the Giardino inglese, it is a 3.5 km walk north, probably more difficult during the hot summer months.

Luoghi comuni and clichés

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Sat, 04 Feb 2012 18:11:00 +0000

At the end of December, an American wrote a thought-provoking letter to the editors of the Giornale di Sicilia. In the editorial, the author writes about the reactions he experiences when he talks about Palermo to stranieri. I laughed aloud when he reported that many people believe Palermo to be dangerous. He even remarks about how he told a Palestinian he had come from Palermo, and the Palestinian remarked that he was such a brave man.

I am dismayed. Palermo has come so far -- yet our understanding this remarkable city has not progressed beyond the stereotypes of films and books. Palermo seems to be a prisoner of its past. Even important literary works which seek to expose the mafia, while important in exposing the realities of organized crime, still, passively, taint our understanding of the city.

I admit that many years ago my own opinion of Palermo was clouded. I remember the first time I planned to visit the city to meet a friend of mine, telling him how I was a little nervous. He quipped, "Don't worry, I don't think that there will be any shootouts on the street corners while you are here." He helped me to see how foolish I was being: judging a city that I had never visited and basing my opinions on movies, books and dated news reports. I discovered that Palermo was a wonderful jewel in the Mediterranean with a rich history that I had only begun to discover.

Roberto Alajmo's book, Palermo è una cipolla, is a wonderful work that describes the city best. No guidebook does what this book does. Recently translated into English, this book is a must for anyone visiting the city. Alajmo paints a realistic portrait of the city, being careful not to gloss over the city's ills while at the same time promoting its beauty and charm. He has a way of understanding your feelings and fears of the city as if reading your mind: "Here comes the difficulty, however. Everything mentioned in the previous chapter, added to everything you have heard over the years, the months, the weeks and days of your life have left you feeling a shade apprehensive." (Alajmo, Roberto. Palermo. London: Haus, 2009. Translator: Guido Waldman. Print. pp. 31)

Yes, Palermo can be gritty and overwhelming at first. My own first day in Palermo was so overwhelming, but I survived to tell the tale. My friend drove me all around the city, showing me how it was no different than any other city in Italy. We also walked all over the city and explored all the quarters of the city. Soon I began to see the marvels and wonders of Palermo. Over the coming days, I began to appreciate the city more and more. More importantly, I wanted to make sure that others could appreciate the city as I do, and I promote the city every chance I get.

I have traveled the world several times over, lived most of my life in the United States, spent several years traveling and living in Australia, as well as stints in Rome and exploring Europe, parts of Asia...and yet, Palermo is still one of my favorite places in all the world!

Politics "alla palermitana"

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Mon, 30 Jan 2012 19:40:00 +0000

The race for Palermo's next mayor is...heating up.... Being an American, I am often surprised at how many candidates Italian elections seem to have from a dizzying array of political parties. This year the race is chock full of people, and it is interesting to see a diverse group of men and women of all ages vying for the post, bucking the trend that only old men and women run take part in the Italian political process.

The casual traveler probably won't give a care much who wins, but as you walk around the city, taking in the sites, you're bound to see a slew of political posters (manifesti politici) all over the city advertising the various candidates running for the post.

The site, Rosalio, has quaintly dubbed the process, Grande Sindachello, an homage of sorts to Grande Fratello, or, Big Brother (as it is known in English). Big Mayor...now there's an idea for American television executives (...like we need more reality TV?). It is mind blowing how important social media has become for elections all over the world, with many of the candidates having Facebook pages and Twitter feeds.

If you're curious about the political process in Palermo or want to know more about the candidates, check it out. It is, of course, in Italian, and will require a decent understanding of the language...or you can simply gaze at the photos of the candidates, too.

Palazzo Chiaramonte-Steri

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Mon, 16 Jan 2012 17:53:00 +0000

Palermo: Palazzo Steri

In the coming weeks, I'm going to talk about the Palazzo Chiaramonte-Steri, also known simply as the Palazzo Steri.

Once a jail during the Inquisition, it is now a museum with some interesting works. It's an important place in the history of Palermo and worthy of some exploration. If you're in the city, be sure to check it - it's located in the iconic Piazza Marina.

Da leggere:
Palazzo Chiaramonte-Steri from Wikipedia

Guy de Maupassant's Sicily

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Sat, 14 Jan 2012 15:00:00 +0000

Over the past few months, I've been fascinated by a trend that I noticed -- why do so many authors, artists, musicians and others searching for inspiration always head to Italy? In this particular post, I'm going to look at the island of Sicily.

While technically not Italian literature, I was curious as to why so many authors and writers spent time in Sicily. I recently stumbled upon Guy de Maupassant's Sicily which was published in installments in Le Figaro and Gil Blas in 1885 and then again in 1886 in La nouvelle revue and as a chapter in La vie errante ("The Wandering Life") These writings describe Maupassant's travels to the island, his observations, and his reasons for going -- to see the splendid Venus of Syracuse, one of the masterworks of ancient scuplture.

Maupassant really captures the essence of Sicily, and it was ironic that many of his observations, at least of the buildings and monuments he visited, still ring true today. Maupassant also demonstrates how much Sicily has changed -- the thousands and thousands of orange and lemon groves have been replaced by urban sprawl as the island has changed and developed over the past 125 years.

Maupassant did much of his traveling by railroad and shows just how efficient and important rail was to Sicily. When Maupassat visited Sicily in 1885, the rail was a young 25 years old, but it enabled the author to see much of the island that might have been difficult to traverse by horse and carriage. Maupassant makes several observations about the crime and violence of the island but does his best to assure his readers that much of the danger is hype and fear -- a common misperception of the island even today.

Maupassant begins his journey in Palermo and visits Catania, Syracuse and several other cities along the way, even making a trek to Mt. Etna to see one of Europe's most active volcanoes. He visits many ancient sites, recounts local anecdotes and describes many of the most important churches and buildings in Palermo, notably Cappella Palatina and the Duomo of Monreale (pictured) and the bronze ram of Syracuse, located in the Museo Archeologico Regionale "Antonio Salinas".

Sources:

Maupassant, Guy de, and Robert W. Berger. Sicily. Italica historical travel guides. New York: Italica Press, 2007. This is an excellent English translation of Maupassant's writing. The introduction and notes are excellent and provide background to the context of Maupassant's writings as well as links to further reading.
Maupassant, Guy de. Viaggio in Sicilia. [Palermo]: Sigma, 1998.One of several Italian translations.
Maupassant, Guy de. Cronaca d'un viaggio in Sicilia. Biblioteca storica del viaggio in Sicilia, 6. Palermo: EdiBiSi, 2000.

Bronze Ram of Syracuse

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Fri, 13 Jan 2012 14:37:00 +0000

Works from the Museo Archeologico Regionale "Antonio Salinas", originally uploaded by Keith.

Housed in the Regional Archaeology Museum of Palermo ("Antonio Salinas"), this exquisite bronze statue is a rare find. The museum has been closed for renovation since July 2011, but hopefully it will re-open soon. It houses some excellent examples of Greek and Roman antiquities that were collected from all over the island. The ram featured prominently in Guy de Maupassant's travelogue he wrote about Sicily.

If you want to see other images from the museum, visit my Flickr page by clicking on the image of the ram or my name in the description.

Teatro Massimo during the holidays

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Thu, 15 Dec 2011 21:03:00 +0000

A friend of mine in Palermo sent me these shots some years ago (2008 I believe?) -- images of the Teatro Massimo illuminated for the holidays! Buone Feste!

Renato Guttuso: La Vucciria (1974)

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Tue, 11 Oct 2011 19:57:00 +0000

Renato Guttuso-La vucciria-1974, a photo by furio.castellucci on Flickr.

This is a wonderful painting, La Vucciria, by Renato Guttuso. Full of wonderful imagery! I will be writing more about the artist and this work in the coming weeks.

For now, check out this wonderful photo of this painting. If you're ever in Palermo, head over to the Palazzo Steri to see it in person!

Le Vie dei Tesori

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Tue, 11 Oct 2011 19:43:00 +0000

L'Orto Botanico, Palermo (via Lincoln)

A friend of mine in Palermo (grazie, Danilo!) alerted me to his some days ago, and I thought it was worth sharing! For those of you who will be in Palermo or live there now, don't miss Le vie dei tesori, ten events featured during the weekends of October that highlight the collections of the University of Palermo. More details can be found on their web site and/or Facebook page. Unfortunately, there's no English translation of the pages but you can get a good sense of what's going on and when.

Definitely visit Palazzo Steri which houses some amazing works of art and definitely check out the painting by Renato Guttuso, Vucciria (if you click on this link, it will take you to a wonderful photo of it taken by flickr member, furio.castellucci). Each location hosts guided visits conducted by former students and "Amici dei musei siciliani". Many of the other sites will also prove to be worthy of seeing.

Visit their site for more information.

Quattro Canti

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Thu, 11 Aug 2011 16:23:00 +0000

I Quattro Canti are a set of four architectural elevations (prospetti) located in the Piazza Vigliena: it also serves as an intersection for Via Maqueda and Il Corso Vittorio Emanuele (formerly known as Il Cassaro).

Palermo can be a difficult city to get your bearings, but you can mitigate this by using the Quattro Canti as a reference point as you move around the centro storico of the city.

The four corners of the square contains these architecturally facades, each of which are divided into three levels. The square is a perfect octagonal - the four architectural facades and the four outlets created by the criss-cross of the two streets just mentioned. The four architectural fronts serves as boundaries for the various quartieri in Palermo (indicated in parentheses below), all of which converge at this piazza which also serves as an intersection. The seasons, which occupy the first level, are done in the Doric style, the sovereigns done in the Ionic style, while the city's saints (which occupy the high level on the structures) are not flanked by any columns and sit atop the structures, almost as if watching over the city.

The various levels contain statuary which represents the seasons, sovreigns and saints of Palermo.

south (Albergheria): spring, Carlo V, Cristina
west (Seralcadio / Capo): summer, Philip II, Ninfa (pictured)
north (La Loggia): autumn, Philip IV, Oliva
east (Kalsa): winter, Philip III, Agata

The square is difficult to photograph, especially during the day when the light is best because of the immense pedestrian and vehicle traffic that remains in the square for a great part of the day. It is immensely difficult to get enough time to snap some unobstructed photos of these monuments. You might have luck on Saturday and Sunday mornings, when the crowds are few, or, as is often the case, when the city might close several of the main thoroughfares to traffic to create temporary pedestrian zones.

The Quattro Canti are a great way to orientate yourself when you're in the city and should be easy to locate on any map of the city!

View Larger Map

Getting Around Palermo

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Tue, 28 Jun 2011 19:46:00 +0000

Public transport zooming by in Palermo...

I was fortunate on my trip to Palermo to have a friend who lived there who had a car, and we drove around a lot, especially to places outside the city and between attractions at opposite ends of the city. Most tourists and visitors to the city will most certainly want to avoid driving in Palermo because the traffic is...daunting.

Being from Boston, I used to think that Boston traffic was the worst, but never was I more wrong on my first visit to Palermo. The narrow streets, the roads, and the congestion are the perfect recipe for chaos. My advice for travelers: walk or public transport.

Palermo is a very walkable city, and you will probably have more luck getting around on foot. If you are thinking of going to the city, equip yourself with some comfortable walking shoes that are supportive and can take a good beating. The second thing that you will need is a very good map. I found that the free map from the tourist information booths around the city were the best and very durable (I wasn't able to find a decent map of Palermo before my arrival). If you're staying at a hotel, I'm sure that the hotel has something similar or possibly the same map for visitors. It's easy to get lost in the city so be sure to have a map with you until you get your bearings.

Walking along the streets can be jarring on your first day - the influx of people, the honking of horns, the shrills of brakes and tires...all of these things can wear on your nerves. After a day or two, you get used to it. Crossing the street can be an adventure. Don't jaywalk. Use crosswalks whenever possible. Don't cross against the light. And when you do cross the street, don't hesitate, remain firm and get to the other side as quickly as possible.

Public transport can be useful, but it's difficult to master the time tables and schedules, and good luck figuring out where any bus goes. Most guidebooks do not advise making use of public transport, but you may have to use them, especially in the summer months, if you want to visit some of the more popular attractions outside of the city center (for example, the catacombs). The larger coach buses (pullman as they are called in Italian) are great at getting from one metropolitan area to another and many of these pullman make stops along the way, too. The pullman are operated by private companies and are relatively inexpensive.

Giacomo Serpotta and Palermo

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Mon, 06 Jun 2011 14:19:00 +0000

Oratorio di San Lorenzo
image released to the public domain

The Sicilian sculptor, Giacomo Serpotta, is one of Sicily's most gifted artisans, known for his sculptures of stucco and hails from Palermo. Stucco was a difficult medium to work in because it dried fast (and even more so in the heat of the island) and left little room for error.

Serpotta is also believed to have come up with the idea of adding marble dust to his stucco recipe -- this gives the stucco a more lustrous appearance than it might normally have. The ingredients in his recipe are somewhat of a mystery today, and no other artist really ever matched Serpotta's skill in stucco.

Serpotta is believed to have never left Sicily (although some conjecture that he was trained in Rome since much of his work resembles that of the stucco master, Antonio Raggi), and he learned much about the artistic currents of Italy by working with other artists on the island as well as studying engravings and drawings. Serpotta's work can be found all over Palermo as well as in Alcamo in the Province of Trapani (some also believe that Serpotta worked in Agrigento, but this, too, is up for debate).

Donald Garstang wrote a very comprehensive work about the artistic career of Giacomo Serpotta and the stucco artists of the Sicilian Baroque. A translation of this work exists in Italian, having been recently published in 2006 (actually, the Italian version has slightly better photographic reproductions). The English edition is available in numerous libraries around the world but is now out of print.

Adriana Chirco has a chapter devoted to Serpotta in her book, Palermo, la città ritrovata : itinerari entro le mura. This chapter features a walking tour of Serpotta's works throughout the city as well as information on the artist, too.

This web site has a lot of useful information and photos on the artist.

Fascist Era Post Office

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Mon, 18 Apr 2011 13:53:00 +0000

Fascist era Post Office, Palermo (on Via Roma)

This menacingly brutal structure on Via Roma in Palermo stands out like a sore thumb and is impossible to miss as you walk down one of Palermo's main streets. The building is so imposing, large and heavy that it screams "fascism", and it's style is unmistakable. If you have ever been in an Italian post office, then you will understand the irony of having the post office in this kind of building. Palermo, like many Italian cities, boasts an excellent collection of buildings and sites that chronicle all periods of Italian history, even the ugly ones.

View Larger Map

Guest Post about Palermo on Nello's Italy

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Thu, 24 Mar 2011 01:53:00 +0000

I took an excerpt from the guidebook I am writing on Palermo and contributed to Nello's Italy, a site about Italian culture (FYI: He also makes and sells his tomato sauce which is buonissimo, I might add!). Check out my post and see what I had to say about the wonderful city that is Palermo!

Cappella Palatina

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Mon, 14 Feb 2011 20:33:00 +0000

Cappella Palatina, Palermo (Palazzo dei Normanni)

Coming soon will be some of my images from La Cappella Palatina and the amazing mosaics! You can see them on my Flickr page. Some of them didn't come out well, but a good number of them are OK. If you're in Palermo, even for just a day or two, definitely make visiting this chapel one of your priorities!

Agrigento : there and back again

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Wed, 09 Feb 2011 13:00:00 +0000

Agrigento, Sicily

Agrigento is some distance from Palermo, but easily doable and definitely a must see as it is home to the Valle dei Templi, an immense archeological site that, if you are in Sicily, should be seen! I went by pullman (a coach bus) from Palermo to Agrigento, leaving at 10:30 AM and arriving a little after noon. I remember that it was a hot day and initially feared that I might not get to see everything. In the summer, the archeological park closes when the sun goes down, and, in the summer in Sicily, this is well past six o'clock in the evening.

You can also take the train, although the pullman is faster is more reliable according to everyone I spoke to in Palermo. There is a stop on the train line that deposits you at the site, but, considering that my coach bus went faster than the train at times (the route the bus takes is parallel to that of the train's), it might better to stick with the bus. You can buy the bus ticket right on the bus from the driver, and all of the buses congregate near the train station. A round trip ticket was about 15 euro, I believe, although prices vary. Several coach companies operated between Palermo and Agrigento. You'll have to pay in cash, too, most likely. Some of the companies had ticket kiosks (where perhaps you can pay with credit card?), but since the price of the ticket is relatively inexpensive, cash might be the better way to go.

Make sure that you buy your return coach bus ticket at the same time (andata e ritorno). This is important because seats on the bus are first come/first serve. This doesn't guarantee you a seat on the bus back, but it will save you from having to wait to buy a ticket. Try to get to the coach bus ten to fifteen minutes early to ensure that you get a seat. The bus was fuller going back to Palermo than it was going to Agrigento. If for some reason you don't get a seat back (which would surprise me), many of the coach companies run buses all day. As long as you can buy a ticket, it doesn't matter which bus you take back. The ticket you buy will be good for any seat on that line.

Oh, and another word of advice. The tickets are just slips of paper. A part of mine "fell off" from being in my pocket, and the return trip driver almost made me buy another ticket until I found it in my pocket (albeit very soggy from sweating in the summer heat). I didn't even realize that there were two parts to the ticket, so just have a good look at the ticket. Some companies give you one ticket that can be punched twice, while others will give you a ticket that has two perforated sides (each side for each journey). I say this because my pleas of "But I bought a round trip ticket in Palermo..." had no sway with the driver, although, once he realized my confusion, showed me the ticket and how it worked.

You might be thinking that the bus will be uncomfortable, but the pullman I took to Agrigento was clean, comfortable, quiet and air-conditioned. A friend of mine took the train once and told me that it has no air-conditioning. In the hot Sicilian heat, you'll probably want an air-conditioned bus.

If you take the pullman, you'll arrive in a sort of sketchy part of town -- not criminally sketchy but where is the bus station and why are you dropping me off on the side of the road sketchy. The bus literally drops you off at this tiny run-down section with nowhere to sit and almost no one to ask for directions. Cars are flying past you as you stand only a few inches from the road. (It looked as if they were building some sort of bus depot/waiting area -- I hope it is done the next time I go back). I think that the local bus makes stops nearby, but I never saw one, so I hoofed it up to the main train station (about a 10 minute walk) and asked for directions. Inside the train station is a tourist information booth, and the people who work it are very friendly. I have to admit that I get nervous speaking Italian, especially when I am alone. The woman who helped me was really friendly and patient and explained to me which bus to take and where to take it. At one point I seemed a little "dazed and confused", and she began to speak English to help me.

Outside the main train station was the local bus stop. This bus takes you around the Agrigento area and makes a stop at the archeological park. I could say "just follow the crowds" since a lot of people were doing what I was doing -- hoofing it up from where the coach buses drop you off to the train station, buying the bus tickets and then waiting for the bus. You have to buy your ticket from one of the tobacco shops (if you're in the main train station, there is one right across from the info booth). Remember, you must buy TWO tickets -- one to get you to the archeological park and one to bring you back. There is a tobacco shop at the park, but it was closed for lunch when I arrived so it is best to buy your tickets beforehand to avoid having to walk all the way back! There are three or four buses that run past the archeological park, so you don't have to wait long. Just be sure to get off at the right stop. If you're confused, just ask the bus driver!

The return trip to town was a bit tricky as I wasn't sure where to get off since the bus route I took back was a different one from what I took there. That's not a problem, but as the bus meandered through the city center, I wasn't sure where I was or which stop would put me closest to the train station or where the coach buses all congregated. Before I forget...make sure you get on the right bus line back to Palermo.

My only "regret" was that I didn't spend the night, because I think that it would have been fun to go back in the morning and see some things that I didn't get to see as well as take some photos in a different light. Plus, after hiking around the park (it is HUGE!) all day in the hot sun, all I really wanted to do at the end of the day was drink a gallon of water, have a light meal and SLEEP! Most of my friends in Palermo said there wasn't much to see and do, but I figured I could have entertained myself for an evening...

Orto Botanico di Palermo

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Sun, 06 Feb 2011 21:27:00 +0000

Orto Botanico, Palermo

The Orto Botanico di Palermo is a great place to get away from the heat, especially if you are in the city during the warmer summer months. The garden, with its plethora of shade and water features, provides a wonderful place to sit down and relax away from the chaotic that Palermo can become during the day (don't get me wrong, I love a little chaos, but something you just want to step away from it all).

The garden is run by the botany department at the University of Palermo and is located in the Kalsa section of Palermo (I'll have a post about the different "neighborhoods" of the city). It's pretty easy to find and is adjacent to Via Lincoln and Via Giulia. Take note that the entrance to the gardens is from Via Lincoln. There is a small fee to enter. (Unfortunately, at the time of this post, the web site for the gardens is not up, and I couldn't find anything at the University of Palermo web site, either).

The garden is well laid out and easy to navigate with plenty of things to see. My favorite was the greenhouse full of different cactuses, and there are thousands of plants species to see. Also of note was a large Aquarium -- a large pool divided into 24 quadrants with each section housing a different form of aquatic plant life. When I visited, there was also a large bug collection (large dead bugs, thankfully...!). If you want, you can view a number of photos that I took when I visited the gardens.

I couldn't get any of my friends to go along with me (Who wants to see plants? one friend asked), but, as I said, I think that it is unique walk around and to support the gardens with your entrance fee. Plus, in the heat of the day, it's a great place to unwind and get out of the sun. I walked around the gardens in just under four hours. You could certainly see it in much less time, too.

Sources on Palermo

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Mon, 08 Nov 2010 17:00:00 +0000

Periodically, as I work on my book and publish to the blog, I will post about some excellent sources on Palermo. Sadly, many of these publications have not been translated into English and require a decent level of Italian to understand.

Palermo: guida della città e dei dintorni (Palermo: guide of the city and its surroundings)
Contrary to many, this book is not out of print, at least in Palermo and parts of Sicily. It is one of the earliest and most comprehensive guides to the city, and you will see many a Sicilian tourist carrying the book around as they make their way around the city. It contains information on monuments, churches, sites in Palermo and its surroundings. It is relatively inexpensive at about 9.00 euro.

If you wish to purchase a copy of the book, consider contacting a bookstore in Palermo. If you are in the city itself, you will often see copies of the book (you cannot miss it with its bright red/orange color) for sale in most bookstores. This bookstore in Palermo sold me copies online (I also purchased a copy of the book in a Feltrinelli store in Palermo) and would probably do the same for you: Libreria Europa, http://www.libreria-europa.it
Palermo città d'arte: guida illustrata ai monumenti di Palermo e Monreale
Much larger and with color photos (and more expensive at 38 euro) is this expansive tome on the city of Palermo. It is written in the same vain as Bellafiore's book but would certainly be more of a struggle to carry around with you through the city at over 540 pages. It is published by Kalos (now in its 2nd edition) and contains a section on the history of Palermo as well as an index of hundreds of sites, places and monuments in Palermo and Monreale along with an index of places, artists and a decent bibliography. While Bellafiore's book is illustrated with rough drawings and sketches, this book makes use of color photography and is especially useful for those who are not or have not been to Palermo.

This book is readily available from many online Italian booksellers, such as ibs.it.

Fontana Pretoria

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Sun, 07 Nov 2010 20:42:00 +0000

Fontana Pretoria, Palermo (click to enlarge)

The Fontana Pretoria (pictured here) is located in the Piazza della Pretoria (see below), which sits on the corner of Via Maqueda and Via Vittorio Emmanuele in Palermo. The fountain was originally destined for the Florentine villa of Don Pietro di Toledo but was instead sold to the Senate of Palermo in 1573 and assembled in Palermo in 1574. The idea of the fountain (and the piazza) was to emulate what Michelangelo had done for the Campidoglio in Rome as the Senate of Palermo resides in the square where the fountain sits.

Comically, the square is known to many palermitani as the Piazza della Vergogna (Piazza of Shame) because of the many nude statutes that surround the fountain (many surmise that the sale of the fountain to Palermo was to avoid the "scandalous nature" of so many nude statues). The sculptures were dismantled into 644 pieces and transported to Palermo where Camillo Camilliani, the son of the Francesco Camilliani (who designed the fountain), reassembled it, completing the re-assembly in 1584.

This fountain is one of the few works from the Renaissance in Palermo.

View Larger Map

Monreale: Cloisters and more detail

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Sat, 25 Sep 2010 13:00:00 +0000

If you've been following this series of posts about the Duomo di Monreale, you will notice the columns that surround the cloisters. This image shows the various columns and their decorative styles -- some carved, some with mosaic inlay, and other just simple and plain. (Where is Monreale?)

Monreale: Detail of the columns from the cloisters

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Fri, 24 Sep 2010 12:00:00 +0000

Above is a detail of the capitals from two columns in the cloisters. Here you can see the intricate relief work done on the capitals. Some of the columns are decorated with mosaics while others are more intricately carved. The columns are well-preserved but certainly could use some "sprucing up" -- visiting these sites in Sicily helps to keep them taken care of.

Monreale: Cloisters

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Thu, 23 Sep 2010 15:10:00 +0000

The cloisters of the abbey of Monreale are a great place to relax. It might seem at first glance that there's no much to see, but do not be fooled. The columns that surround the cloisters are intricately decorated and make for interesting study and viewing. You can ascend the tower for stupendous views of the town and down into the cloister itself (pictured).

Duomo di Monreale

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Mon, 20 Sep 2010 15:49:00 +0000

Monreale is located southwest of Palermo, and its duomo (pictured above, view of the facade) is one of several points of interest in the town. The interior of the church is decorated with beautiful mosaics so you simply must stop in and have a look. Generally, churches charge a small fee to enter, but when there is a wedding going on, they do not enforce this. Also, the cloisters are worth exploring as well! The tower is open, but there's a fee for that, too. It's great if you want some aerial shots of the cloisters and the surrounding countryside.

Chiesa di San Cataldo

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Mon, 02 Aug 2010 14:42:00 +0000

La chiesa di San Cataldo is a unique church, notable for its three red domes that protrude from the roof of the building. The church is from the city's Norman period (il periodo normanno). The church is located in one of my favorite piazzas, Piazza Bellini. The church's interior is simplistic, but there is a unique juxtaposition with its naked walls (you can view a photo of it here from Wikipedia) and mosaic floor, composed of polychrome marble tessera. Visitors often complain of not being able to see the interior because it is closed, but a mid-morning visit or a visit in the mid-afternoon will often yield favorable results!

Welcome

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Sun, 01 Aug 2010 01:59:00 +0000

Thank you for visiting Progetto Palermo.

This blog/web site will feature excerpts and posts that are part of a book that I have been compiling about Palermo and its surroundings. This new book will be a helpful book for travelers and students hoping to learn more about this wonderful city that is just as rich in history, culture and art as any other in Italy. I want travelers to feel that Palermo is a city that has much to offer, and I will endeavor to dispel many myths about this chaotically beautiful city!