Photoshop Effect

photos effect |designing glossy badges web 2.0

2010-12-09T15:39:00.000-08:00

designing glossy badges web 2.0

Designing Glossy (Web 2.0) Badges

This is a relatively basic Photoshop tutorial, but you should have basic knowledge of Photoshop and its tools to follow through to the end.
We’ll be learning how to design these glossy “Web 2.0″ badges in Photoshop. We’ll start off making the shape then styling it using layer styles and additional separate glossy layers.

1. Set up a New Document

Start by creating a new document in Photoshop; for this tutorial I’m going to be using a 400 x 400 document. After you’ve created a new document, design a nice background for your canvas; I used a light blue gradient and some simple white scan lines.

2. Making the Shape

Now let’s make the shape of the badge – in your Photoshop Tools Menu, find and get the Polygon Tool (U).

Be sure that your settings are set up correctly near the top of Photoshop:

Click the drop down arrow that is highlighted in the above image and use these settings:

Now you’re pretty much set to create the shape, although you might want to change some of the settings so that it will be more suited to your tastes. Create a new layer (layer > new > layer) then drag your shape onto the canvas. The color I’ve used for my shape is #4fb2ea.
You should have a badge something like this one:

Well, that’s how to make the basic shape, now move onto the next step to make it look a little nicer

3. Slight Effect (Layer Styles)

In your layers palette, you’ll want to right-click your badge layer and go into the Blending Options. Click and apply the following layer styles/settings:

You should now have something like this:

Looking a fair bit better now. Next thing to do is add some gloss and highlights!

4. Highlights

Create a new layer then select the badge pixels by holding ctrl and clicking the layer thumbnail (in the layer’s palette).

Contract your newly-made selection by about 2 pixels by going to select > modify > contract and using an input that you think fits.

Again in a new layer, fill your selection with white (#ffffff), press the down and left arrow keys once each, finally press the delete key on your keyboard then you should be left with something like this:

Next, change the layer mode for this layer to Overlay and lower the opacity if you think necessary. I lowered mine to around 70%.
Make the selection around the badge layer again and contract the selection again by 2 pixels (or whatever amount you used before), on another new layer make a White to Transparent gradient from the top left to the middle area like so:

Find and get out the Polygonal Lasso Tool and use it to make a diagonal selection from the bottom left to the top right somewhere, then delete your selection like shown below:

Change the layer mode for this layer to either Soft Light or Overlay, and lower the opacity to around 30-70%. Now you should have a nice result like this:

5. Finalizing

Looking much nicer now! Finally, you may want to add some text onto your badge, such as ‘Beta’ as the joke goes
I simply added the word “Web 2.0″ onto my badge, using a simple font such as Arial. If you use white as your text color, you may want to add a blue drop shadow to your text layer.

Complete + PSD

Lighting planet explosion |photos effects

2010-11-25T16:03:00.000-08:00

Lighting planet explosion | Lighting planet explosion effect

in this tutorial we will see how to make this effect i dont know what i should to give name of this effect (can you help me !? :d ) i named it " Lighting planet explosion' Lets see this effect how we can to Do it ?!!
this tutorial Needed accuracy in performance

Author :psd.tutsplus

Illustrating scenes from the final frontier can make for some beautiful work. In this tutorial — the longest we’ve ever published — I’ll walk you through creating a spectacular space scene featuring two planets colliding. Strap yourselves in, Photoshoppers!

Step 1 — The Image

Before we begin, let’s take a look at the image we’re creating. Click the screenshot below to view the full-size image.

The full 55mb, 50-layer-photoshop file is as always available via our Psdtuts+ Plus membership.

Step 2 &mdash The Rule of Thirds

Before we get to the drawing, first a word on composition. Most of the image is going to be empty space with one main focal point — the planets exploding. Therefore, where we place that focal point is going to be important. I’ve followed what’s known as the Rule of Thirds.

This rule — used in photography, filming as well as illustration — simply states that if you divide your canvas in three lengthwise and vertically, your main focal points should be at the intersections, or along the lines themselves. The reasoning being that having things off center creates more visual interest.

So I’ll be placing my planet images in the bottom-left corner. Note that after I placed my actual lines on for this diagram, I realized it wasn’t quite on that cross-section, but close enough

Anyhow, for the purposes of this tutorial, I’ll be zooming in on the left side so that we can show things a bit closer up without breaking my Psdtuts+ grid, so I thought I should show you the main composition first.

Step 3 — Layers Magazine

Editor’s Note: You can download the planet image below by following this link.

I actually started this image yesterday morning after I spotted a link in our user link feed to Layers Magazine’s Back Page Design Contest. The contest is to take an image of a planet (see below) and make something with it. There are some great prizes, so click through and enter yourselves! Even if you don’t enter you’ll want to download the planet image.

(In case you’re wondering, I didn’t enter the image from this tutorial, because it’s becoming a tutorial instead.)

Step 4

Ok, finally we start drawing!!

First, we create a new canvas. Mine is 1920px wide by 1200px high. In a background layer, we draw a radial gradient, with the lighter area roughly where we’ll be drawing the explosion (i.e. where the light will be!). It should be pretty subtle, like the screenshot.

Step 5

Now to give our space some texture, we need to render some clouds. Go to Filter > Render > Clouds with a black and dark brown color selected (as shown below). Now if you press Ctrl+Alt+F after you do this, it will render them again but with more contrast. This is useful because otherwise on such a big canvas, the clouds are all a bit too close.

Step 6

Unfortunately, even with the Ctrl+Alt+F version, I still found the need to go through with a large eraser brush and gently brush away some parts. Then we set the clouds layer to Screen and 85% Opacity to let through some of that background radial gradient we did. The final result is shown below. It’s a bit hard to see why I did this in this small screenshot, but on a larger canvas the difference is noticeable.

Step 7

Next I grabbed this image from iStockPhoto (see the thumbnail below). I chose it because of the sky pattern, which looked like it would add texture to my scene. I purchased a 9-credit version because I needed the image rather large.

Step 8

Then I pasted the image over the top of my canvas and rotated it so it ran lengthwise. Then we press Ctrl+Shift+U to desaturate the image because I’m not interested in the colors, just the texture. I then grabbed a large, soft eraser and erased most of it. I left a small patch up at the top as shown. (Actually, there’s another patch right on the right-hand side of the final image.)

Step 9

Next I set that layer to Color Dodge and 50% Opacity. This gives the result shown, a nice textured effect that goes well with the rest of the image.

Incidentally, I feel I should mention that when I originally made this image, I didn’t do all the steps in the order shown in this tutorial. The full thing took about 8 hours for me to complete, and a lot of that is adding something, then taking it away, then adding something else, then realizing that it’s clashing with an earlier component and removing that, etc. I’ve then abridged the process so it sounds really coherent and like I planned everything (which in fact I didn’t

Step 10

Now to draw stars we’re going to use brushes. There are other methods for drawing stars, notably I demonstrated a really quick and dirty method in the tutorial A Slick Supernatural Text Effect, that uses a noise filter. Unfortunately, this doesn’t work as well in a larger image where the stars come out looking a bit too small and evenly spaced.

So instead, grab a paint brush and white as the color, then click on the Brushes tab in the top right and follow the settings shown. There’s not much to them except that we want lots of small spaced-out dots.

Step 11

Once I had my "star" brush, I painted all over the place, then grabbed a soft large eraser and erased out some parts. I then duplicated the star layer, turned it 180′ and faded it out to 30%. This gives a bit more depth to our star field with some of them not as bright as others.

Step 12

Now I decided after many different experiments that a purple coloring would look best, so I filled a new layer with a purple color and set its blending mode to Overlay. (Note that if you use the Color blending mode, it gives a really harsh and horrible result, so Overlay is definitely the way to go here).

Step 13

So now we have our background sorted (mostly). I then put all those layers into a nice layer group called Background!

Then in a new layer group called Planet, I pasted and resized my planet image that I got from the Layers Magazine site.

Step 14

Now because the explosion is going to be in the top-left area, this is going to be the lightest part of the planet, and the bottom-right will be the darkest area. To lighten the planet, I first duplicated it, then with an eraser erased away all but the top edge. I set this layer to Screen and 50%.

Then I duplicated that layer and erased away a bit more so there is even less of the edge left. Then I duplicated that again, erased a bit more, and then ran a Gaussian Blur (Filters > Blur > Gaussian Blur) on it with a distance of 2px. Then I duplicated that layer and did the same again with a distance of 4px. Then I did that again two more times with 8px and 16px distances. You can see the six layers on the right of the image below and the composite on the left.

I have a feeling I also used the Burn Tool and burned the bottom right a little, but I can’t quite remember! In any case, place the planet layer and these latest layers into a subgroup called The Planet.

Step 15

Now we paste in the same planet again, but shrink it so it’s even smaller (as shown). This is going to be the comet / planet that will be colliding.

By the way, in case any of your readers are astronomers or astrophysicists, I should point out (in case it’s not blindingly apparent) that I’m not striving in any way for realism in this image — just something that looks cool.

Step 16

To make this planet look different from the other one, I’ve taken the very clever step of making it black-and-white — what a technique! Just press Ctrl+Shift+U to desaturate it.

Step 17

Next I rotated it around and used the Dodge Tool (O) to lighten it all over, particularly the bottom right.

Step 18

Now in yet another layer subgroup which we’ll call Planet Highlight. Then Ctrl-click the original planet layer to select its pixels, then create a new layer in the Planet Highlight subgroup.

Step 19

Using the Gradient Tool, we draw a white-to-transparent gradient going from top left to bottom right.

Step 20

Now we duplicate that gradient layer and apply a Filters > Blur > Gaussian Blur with a distance of 1px. Then duplicate again and apply another blur with distance of 2px, and once more with 4px. I set the first layer to Screen, 50%, the second to Overlay, 50%, the third layer to Soft Light, 100%, and the final one to Overlay, 100%.

In case you’re wondering why I did this, the repeating gives a nice very soft blur effect, and the various blend modes were selected simply to make it look "right". With an image like this I spend a lot of time trying different things to find the setting that feels the most right to me.

Step 21

Next we create a new layer group called Light, and in it create a new layer. Then grab a large, soft brush and click once with your mouse to get a white glow as shown.

Step 22

Now press Ctrl+T to transform it. Elongate it and squeeze the sides in, then rotate it so it’s tangential to the main planet.

Step 23

Now we add an Outer Glow to this layer with settings as shown. When applied to something with soft edges, this just enhances the softness and adds some color to the edges.

Step 24

Next we duplicate that layer and rotate it so it’s going away and down as shown. The idea here being to make something that looks like an impact.

Step 25

Now to add some color to our explosion, we grab a large, soft brush again and this time paint a yellow color as shown.

Step 26

Set this latest layer to Overlay, and you should get a result like this shown.

Step 27

Now we duplicate the yellow layer and apply a Filters > Blur > Motion Blur to it to make it go diagonally away from the planet. (Note I just realized the angle setting in the screenshot is a bit off. It should probably be closer to -45 degrees).

Step 28

Then we duplicate that layer, apply a Filters > Blur > Gaussian Blur of about 4px, then do this again (Duplicate + Blur), and then again, and one more time for good luck!

Step 29

On the last version, go to Image > Adjustments > Hue/Saturation, click Colorize and make the layer a reddish cast.

Step 30

This is where we’re at now.

Step 31

Next I grabbed another image from iStockPhoto. I chose this image because the glowing lights make for a really great light effect and will make our explosion sparkle.

(I should point out here that I later used this image for some of the stars in the background, though I don’t document that in this tutorial.)

Step 32

I pasted this layer into the background set so it sits behind the two planets. Then using a soft eraser, I erased all but the part you see in the image below. This makes it look like lots of particles are being thrown out by the explosion.

Step 33

Now create a new layer set behind the set called The Planet. Call this new set Backglow.

Then Ctrl-click the original planet layer to select its pixels and create a new layer in Backglow and fill the area with white. Then press the left and up arrows a few times to move the white area that direction as shown.

Step 34

Now run a Filters > Blur > Gaussian Blur and blur out the white by about 4px.

Step 35

Set this blurry back glow to Overlay and then duplicate it, blur it again by 8px, move it up and left even more. Then repeat this again but with 16px and even more up and left. You should start to get a purplish light (picked up from the background) coming off the top-left of the planet.

Step 36

Now we’ll add some sparks coming up. Basically, I used my "star" brush from earlier except under Shape Dynamics, I set Control to Fade. This means that as I brush it gets closer and closer together.

Then in a new layer I painted a few lines coming together into one place. This looks like sparks flying out and spreading apart. I did this in white.

Then I added an Outer Glow with a yellow color and Overlay set as the glow blending mode. Then I placed this so it looks like the sparks are coming out from the impact.

Step 37

So here’s our explosion now — looking pretty cool!

Step 38

Now what photoshop space scene wouldn’t be complete without a lens flare

So we create a new layer above the others, fill it with black, and then go to Filters > Render > Lens Flare. Here’s mine:

Step 39

Set the blend mode of our lens flare layer to Overlay to get an effect as shown. We want the main flare circle to sit right around the explosion. Most of the others should fade off into nothing.

Step 40

To make sure it fades out, we set Opacity to 50% and then add a layer adjustment and use the Radial Gradient Tool to draw a white to black gradient as shown in the layers palette (Note: ignore the other layers, the screenshot was taken after all layers were created

Step 41

Next I decided to apply a subtle blur to soften the whole image. To do this, Flatten everything down, then press Ctrl+A to select everything and Ctrl+C to copy it. Then go to your History Palette and undo a few steps so it’s no longer flattened, and you have all your layers back.

Update: Thanks to Jared in the comments who pointed out a neat command I didn’t know, press Cmd+Opt+Shift+E (Mac) /or/ Ctrl+Alt+Shift+E (Win) and you’ll create a flattened copy of the image in a new layer above the rest. Thanks Jared!

Next paste our layer over the top of the others, duplicate it, and switch one off. With the other, press Ctrl+Shift+U to desaturate it.

Step 42

Now we could just apply a Gaussian Blur to soften things, but instead I thought we’d use a Radial Blur since it adds to the explosion. So go to Filters > Blur > Radial Blur. From the dialog box, choose Zoom as the method to employ and set the amount to 100%. Then in the diagram position the center of the blur to be roughly where you think the planet will be. You may have to try this step a few times until you get it positioned properly.

You should get something that looks like the screenshot below. I think I may have run the blur filter twice.

Step 43

Now set the blurred layer to Overlay and 20% Opacity. Then grab the other version of the flattened image and repeat the blur process with it (but don’t desaturate it). Set this one to 10% Opacity.

The first (desaturated) layer serves to up the contrast a little and dim the colors down. The second serves to brighten the image up and exaggerate the radial blur. You can see in the image below how it looks like light is bursting forth.

Step 44

Next I decided I wanted a bit more noise in my explosion, so I grabbed this paper texture from Bittbox.

Step 45

I pasted it in just above the light layers and erased all but the part you see in the image below.

Step 46

Then I set the layer to Overlay and 75% Opacity. You pretty much can’t see the effect, but it adds a bit more layering to the visuals. In a picture like this. it’s the subtle details that make the image rock. Also setting to Overlay helps counter some of the lightening I did in the last step.

Step 47

We’re almost there now!

To finish the image, I thought another planet / moon would be nice as it would let us reflect the light of the explosion and give the image depth. So I purchased a picture of the moon from iStockPhoto.

Step 48

I used the Magic Wand Tool (W) to select all the black in the moon image, then pressed Ctrl+Shift+I to invert my selection and Ctrl+C to copy the moon part of the image out.

Back in my main image, I pasted the moon in and shrank it down to the size shown.

Step 49

Next I grabbed the Burn Tool (O) and burned the right edge into darkness. I then Ctrl-clicked the moon layer to select its pixels and created a new layer over the top, and drew a Linear Gradient from right to left with black fading to transparent. Together this gave me a darkening of the moon as shown with light on the left. This looks like it’s being lit by the explosion.

Step 50

To really make it interact, though, I needed to have it reflecting the same colors. So using the eye dropper I selected an orange from the image. Then I Ctrl-clicked the moon to select its pixels, created a new layer, and with a soft brush painted some orange in a crescent shape facing the explosion. I set this layer to Overlay and duplicated it twice, blurring each time using a Filters > Blur > Gaussian Blur.

Step 51

Finally, to finish the image off, I added some typography over the top as shown. I tried to make it reasonably subtle and used the font Eurostile for its squared off corners that look quite futuristic, but not over-the-top futuristic.

And we’re done!! One lovely, large wallpaper for my laptop!

In the next two steps I’ll show you two actual inbetween screenshots (as opposed to my manufactured tutorial screenshots), then finally the final image one more time

Actual Screenshot 1

I first started this image yesterday morning, and after about three hours, this is where I was up to. I left it at that and came back today to finish off the image. You can see here I didn’t have the highlights on the planet, there are a lot more "sparks" and the image looks a bit more like an eclipse with a darker planet with light behind it. I also hadn’t decided to use a purplish coloring and was using a very warm yellow at this point.

Actual Screenshot 2

It’s often even more important to know when to stop and remove elements as it is to know when to add things. In this iteration, I was adding some glowing wavy lines to the picture similar to what we did in the super popular Psdtuts+ tutorial Advanced Glow Effects.

When I showed this to my wife, she promptly told me I’d gone too far and was overdoing the image. She was right So I removed the lines and went with the moon instead. I also had a bit of a dumb placing of my text — it’s too close to the right-hand side and looks unbalanced with the planet.

Final Image

And so I kept going and wound up with this image. I hope this tutorial has been useful as it took forever to write! Methinks it’ll be a while before I attempt another tutorial with 50 steps!

And don’t forget you can get the full PSD file by subscribing to Psdtuts+ Plus for just $9 a month — and you’ll be helping pay for more crazily long tutorials like this one.

make face like killer character|photos effects

2010-11-25T15:21:00.000-08:00

make face like killer character |killer face effect |photoshop make your face like killer |tutorial how to make killer face|photos effects

In this Tutorial We will make a nice female look like killer character by Photoshop in easy steps

Final image::::

make face like killer character

step 1 ::

To begin my zombie I choose these three photos (Portrait, Skull,and Texture)

Step 2

Ok, to start we are going to open the portrait photo and with the Smudge Tool (R) we are going to cover the girl's nose and mouth, you can use the Stamp Tool (S) too if you like.

Step 3

After we do that we are going to bring the skull photo in here and adjust to fit her face. I lower the opacity on the skull layer (after you done go bring back the opacity of the layer to normal) just so I can see her face on the back so I can re size the skull using Edit>Transform>Scale and fit right over her face as you see here:

Step 4

Now that the skull is over her face we are going to take off the excess by creating a layer mask on the skull layer and painting black all around the skull living only the main part of it as you see bellow:

Step 5

Now that we have the skull exactly where we want to, we are going to put the texture right over her face with the skull.

Step 6

We are going to add a layer mask to the texture layer and paint the layer mask to leave only her face and parts of the skull with the texture as we see here:

Step 7

Now that we have the skull and the texture where we wanted we are going to work the layers a little bit so the image will look better, first on the texture layer we are going to set the layer mode to Overlay and set the Fill to 48%.

Now on the skull layer we are going to desaturate the layer by Image>Adjustments>Desaturate now that we did that we will set the Opacity to 65% and Fill to 80%.

The result should look like this:

Step 8

You notice her face looks a little weird, we have to change the colors to make it look better and for that we are going to duplicate the first layer (the portrait layer) after that we are going to desaturate the layer, notice that it looks really good now that all the colors blended, but I don't want the image to be black and white so I will create a layer mask on the portrait copy layer and I will only leaver her face showing on black and white:

Step 9

This is what your layers should look like:

Step 10

Looks good but we want to put some color on her face, we are going to create a layer on top of all the ones we already have and paint it dark brown, we only want to apply the color on her face so we are going to put a layer mask on the color layer and leave only her face (this time is easier because we already selected her face before on the portrait black and white layer, so hold ctrl and click on the portrait black and white layer mask that the selection will show)

The result should look like this:

Step 11

Now all we need to do is change the layer mode to Soft Light and the Fill to 58%, here is the result:

Step 12

Ok, We got her to look like a zombie, now we want to make this a better composition. Starting from the background, we are going to select the girl and create a layer mask on the portrait layer, leaving only her body on the image, now we are going to create a new layer, move this layer under the portrait layer and paint in a dark way to make the background look better as you see here:

Step 13

Now let's add some atmosphere effects. Create a new layer on top of the others and go to Filter>Render>Clouds. Your colors should be black and white. Then with the Eraser Tool(E) delete the area covering the face of the zombie. After that, change the Blend Mode to Color Dodge.

Step 14

Duplicate the Zombie Layer and go to Filter>Other>High Pass. Use 3 pixels for the Radius. Then change the Blend Mode to Hard Light.

Step 15

First paint some blood on the zombie. I used a blood brush, you can download it here. The just apply some Layer Styles. Use Color Overlay with a very dark red and Multiply for the Blend Mode. Then add a Bevel and Emboss. Use Inner Bevel for the Style, Smooth for the Technique, 100% Depth, Up, 1px Size, and 2px Soften.

Step 16

Duplicate the Zombie Layer again and go to Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur. Use 5-10 pixles for the Radius and change the Blend Mode to Soft Light.

Conclusion

You can add some new effects like Adjustment Layers with Hue and Saturation reducing the Saturation and make the image darker. Also you can add more blood stains, or simply whatever you want. As it is a zombie, there'r no parameters of what is right or wrong.

create ablog layout with photoshop|Web design

2010-11-23T15:37:00.000-08:00

create ablog layout with photoshop |creat a tech blog layout in photoshop |make layout of blog with photoshop |photoshop,tutorial,layout,blog,create,

2011,

Hello all

how are you today ?

In the creating a blog layout with photoshop tutorial we will learn how to creat a tech blog layout in photoshop

its a new kind of tutorials .

Final :::

create ablog layout with photoshop

step 1::

Start by creating a new document. The size is 1280 * 1200 pixels. Fill the background with black (# 000000).

step 2 :

Create a new layer named content. Pick up the Rectangular marquee tool and draw a 976px wide rectangle. Fill it with white (#FFFFFF).

step3::

Also on the content layer, use the rectangular marquee tool to draw the sidebar. The width is 331px and background color is #E9E9E9.

At this point, your design should look like this:

step 4 :::

Create a new layer set named header. We’re now ready to create a nice header background. To do so, I have first downloaded this picture and imported it into Photoshop. Once the picture is imported, select Filter, Blur, Mottion blur and apply the effect with the following parameters:

step 5 :::

Once done, import the modified picture in the design. Crop it to 972*188px. Then, go to the Image menu and select Ajdjustments, Color balance. Add blue on highlight, shadows and midtones.

The header should look like this:

6 - Time to draw the navigation menu. Pick up the rectangular marquee tool and draw a 972*53 pixels rectangle in a new layer called navigation. Fill it with #080808.

7 - On the Layers window, right click on the navigation layer and choose Blending options. Once the Layer style window is open, add a Gradient overlay. Setting are 65% opacity, #000000 on left and #3F3E3E on right.

8 - Now, select the text tool and start adding navigation links on the nav bar. I chose Arial bold, 18pt. Color is white.

9 - For the active/hover state of the navigation links, select the rounded rectangle tool and draw a shape around one of the links. The rounded rectangle radius is 10px and the background color is #6589A7.

10 - It’s time for us to add a logo to our blog design. I have chose the Futura bold font with 72pt font size and black color (#FFFFFF). Simply type the text you want, and duplicate the layer once you’re done with typing.

11 - On the layers window, make sure the first text layer (Not the copy) is selected, right click and selectBlending options. We’re going to add a nice, very “technology-like” gradient on the text. Select Gradient overlayand add the gradient. Left color is #EEEFF0 and right color is #4E4D4D.

12 - Once you’re done with the gradient, select the copy of the layer (which is plain white). Pick up the Move Tooland use the keyboard arrows to move the layer 1 pixel on the right and 1 pixel on the bottom.
After the 3 latest steps, your blog logo should looks like this:

13 - We’re done with the header, and it’s time to create our posts. The first thing to do is to create a new layer set named post. Then, get three or four 200*200px images to illustrate the posts. Such images can be found on my other blogs Cats Who Code and WpRecipes. Import one 200*200 pixels image into the design, and place it 18px from the edges of the white container.

14 - The font used for the titles is #222222 Arial, bold, 36pt. Type the text you want for a post title, and select it using the Text Tool. On the Photoshop menu, go to Window and select Paragraph. Set the AV to -75, according to the screenshot below:

15 - Pick up the text tool again and write the author name, the post category, the number of comments or anything else. Select white (#FFFFFF) 12pt Arial bold font.

16 - Select the rectangular marquee tool and draw a rectangle around the text you just entered. Fill the rectangle with #6589A7. Make sure the text layer is above the shape.

17 - For the post excerpt, I have choosen Arial font, 12pt, Italic. Color is #555555.

18 - Select the Line Tool and draw a #CCCCCC line below the post. The post should looks like the following:

19 - Copy the post layer set as many times as necessary to fill up the content space:

20 - Time to create a cool sidebar for our blog design. Let’s start by creating a new layer set named sidebar. The first thing to add to the sidebar is some 125*125px ads. Download some from your favorites blog and import it into the design. In the psd, I have choosen to display 4 ads, but of course it is just an example.

21 - In order to draw a sidebar widget title, create a new layer set named widget, pick up the rectangular marquee tool and draw a 342*40 pixels rectangle on the sidebar, starting from the left edge. Fill it with #6589A7.

22 - Use the Zoom Tool to zoom on the right side of the newly created rectangle. Pick up the Polygonal Lasso Tool to draw a shape like the one in the screenshot below. Fill the shape with #4F667A.

23 - Add some text in the widget title. The font used in the example is 12pt Arial bold. Color is white (#FFFFFF).

24 - Add some text below the title. Font used is #222222 12pt Arial bold. Once done, your sidebar widget should look like this:

25 - Duplicate the widget layer set as many time as needed to fill up the sidebar space.

26 - Our design should now looks like the screenshot below:

27 - Finally, the last step of this tutorial is to create a simple, but nice looking footer for our blog design. Start by creating a new layer set, named footer. Then, Create a new layer (Also named footer) and draw a 972*34 px rectangle using the Rectangular Marquee Tool. Fill it with #6589A7.

28 - Add your copyright message (or whatever) to the footer. The font I used was Arial bold, 12pt. The color is white (#FFFFFF). Once done, align the text to the right part of the footer.

29 - Repeat steps 10,11 and 12 in order to have a smaller version of your logo in the footer. You should also dusplicate the logo layers and scale it, of course.

30 - You’re done! Look at what you just created:

3D Download Icon Tutorial

2010-11-22T04:17:00.000-08:00

3D icon by photoshop|create 3d icon by photoshop|Tutorial make 3d download icon|3D Download Icon Tutorial|Tutorial make 3d download icon

Keywords:::3D Download Icon Tutorial,make 3D icon ,Download icon 3d tutorial,create 3d download icon ,Tutorial make 3d download icon,make 3D icon by photoshop

Description of Tutorial:::

Make 3D Download icon by photoshop

3D Download icon

In this tutorial We will be able to create a 3d icon for download folder by txtures
and learn making 3d icons with visually impressive by some useful techniques

Final image

Needs::::

photoshop software

Grunge Texture(Download Here) 55 mb

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Now close evry thing Except this page and Adobe Photoshop

Lets start

Step 1: Document Setup

We’ll start with a canvas size of 512×512 pixel. Keep the background transparent. You can give it any title you want, I chose "Download" since it’s a download folder icon.
Fill (G) the first layer with #e6e6e6 and name it "Background" or "BG".

Icon Resolutions

Icons have standard resolution going in a pattern like so 512×512, 256×256, 128×128… Each time it will be divided or multiplied by 2. OSX can support up to 512×512 but Windows can only support up to 256×256.

Step 2: Laying The Foundation

Let’s start by drawing important sections of the icon to make sure it fills the space well. Create two groups called "Top" and "Bottom", placing "Top" above the other. Create a new layer"Top" and draw a rectangle in the bottom two thirds of the canvas using the Marquee Tool (M) and Fill it with #fae129. Name it "Face" for reference later. Center this layer by ctrl+A"Align horizontal center" button on the Tools Options Bar while the Move Tool (V) is active. inside and clicking on the
Create another layer inside the other group and draw a rectangle below the previous one and Fill it with this color #fbec93. Call this "Front". Create a new layer below and call it "Front Bottom". Draw a smaller rectangle below it with this color #5c5c5c.
Once you’re done, it’s a good practice to place guides at important areas. In this case it would be the edges of the drawing. Enable it by displaying Rulers ctrl+R.

Guides and Marquee Tool

Using guides can help you easily snap your drawings to the same place every time so it becomes more consistent and efficient. Marquee Tool is great for icons because it helps to create crisp edges.

Step 3: Starting From The Top

Go to the "Top" layer and enter Free Transform ctrl+T > Perspective then drag the top corners in. Apply the Layer Styles above.

Step 4: Drawing Stripes

Use the Line Tool (U) at 40px Weight to draw a diagonal line across the canvas. Then Duplicate ctrl+J it and move it evenly to the side so that it forms the following pattern. Try to space them evenly by using shift+arrow key, but it doesn’t matter that much. If you want to be precise, you can create a custom pattern (not covered in this tutorial).
Enter Free Transform and transform it, like below, by scaling and using Perspective. Deletectrl+clicking the thumbnail of "Face" and duplicate it ctrl+J, then deleting the previous layers. You can also use other techniques like simply Selecting Inverse ctrl+shift+I of the selection and deleting, or using layer mask. But the one I’m using also removes the part of the images which is not visible on canvas (outside the canvas area). Set the Blending mode to Multiply and Opacity to 80%. the unwanted part by

Step 5: Adding Grunge

For this step you need the grunge pack I found on Tutorial9. The link is above. We need something a bit rusty and metallic so let’s go for "dirtygrungecement08". Import it to Photoshop and choose a small area, somewhere below the center is my favorite part. Make sure it’s big enough. Copy ctrl+C and paste ctrl+V it into the icon document.
We’ll prepare the texture by Desaturating ctrl+shift+U it then go to Levels ctrl+L and push the sliders inward, like above. This will be our stock texture for later use, so I placed it outside the group and called it "Texture Stock".
Use the selection (ctrl+click thumbnail) of "Face" and Duplicate the texture layer and bring it above that layer. Set Opacity to 10% and Blending mode to Multiply. You can hide the stock texture layer.

Step 6: Adding Details

Create a new layer and get the selection of "Face" then Fill it with white. Nudge it up by 4pxdelete. Nudge the image down by 2px. The reason why the edge needs to be so thick is because the icon is very big, so when scaled down the edge needs to be thick to be visible. the press
Use the Eraser Tool (E) at 0% Hardness and about 500px in diameter to erase both sides of the edge. Use the tip of the Eraser and keep the edge fully visible. You may need to zoom out and vary the Eraser size.

Edges

Adding edges, black or white, helps to add contrast between different areas and make the image more realistic.

Create a new layer and get the selection of "Face". Use a soft Brush of a varying diameter of 400px to brush around the sides with black and white. Press D to reset the foreground and background color to black and white, pressing X to swap the two colors. Bring down the Opacity to 20%.

Step 7: Styles For The Bottom

Go to "Front" layer in the "Bottom" group and apply the above Layer Styles. Then apply the following Layer Style to the "Front Bottom" layer.

Step 8: More Stripes

Create a new layer. Use the Marquee Tool (M) and draw the stripes with black. Zoom in to make sure the stripes are aligned. Use the selection of "Front " to remove excess stripes. Set Opacity to 60%.

Step 9: Shading and Textures

Create a new layer and Brush within the selection of "Front" at the sides with black. Make the right side darker than the left. Set Blending Mode to Overlay and Opacity to 40%.
Use the process I taught above to create a texture for "Front" with the stock texture. Set Opacity to 20% and Blending Mode to Overlay.

Create a new layer. Get the selection of "Front" and Fill it with black. Nudge the selection down by 2px and delete, then apply a 2px Gaussian Blur, Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur. Nudge it down by 1px and set Opacity to 20%.
This is a technique used to make edges pop and look more contrasting even though the effect is subtle.

Step 10: Creating The Hole

Create a new group called "Inside". Create a new layer inside and select the Line Tool (U)2px Weight and black in color. Draw a Diagonal line from one corner to the other end. When drawing the inside, make the corners intersect with the line. with
Create a new layer and draw a rectangle with #b7b7b7 in the center. After this I’ve place two guides above and below the rectangle for convenience. Draw one triangle on the left using the Polygonal Lasso Tool (L) and Fill it with #848484. Duplicate that layer and increase the Lightness by 80 ctrl+U. Flip it Horizontally by Free Transform > Flip Horizontal and place it on the right.
Name those layers according to their position i.e. "Left", "Center", "Right".

Copy the following Layer Styles to the three layers.

Apply the following Layer Style to "Center".

Step 11: Shading The Inside

Create a new layer and get the selection of all three previous layers. Do this by holding down Shift while getting a new selection. Use a black soft brush with 30px diameter and brush the two corners of the inside. Set Opacity to 10%.

Step 12: Adding Details

Create a new layer called "Left Corner". Get the selection of "Center" and Fill it with black. Nudge it 2px to the right and press delete. Apply a 2px Gaussian Blur and set Opacity to 30%. Create a new layer called "Right Corner" and do the same thing to get a white line on the right side. But this time use 1px Gaussian Blur and leave Opacity at 100%.
Get the selection of "Left, Center, Right" and Select Inverse ctrl+shift+I. Then use it to delete extra pixels on "Left Corner" and "Right Corner". From now on when I refer to the three layers, I’m referring to "Left, Center, Right".

Create a new layer and get the selection of the three layers then Fill it with white. Go Select > Modify > Contract and key in 3px and hit enter. Press delete and shift the selection down by 3px then delete again. Set Opacity to 50%.

Create a new layer and get the selection of the three layers then Fill it with black. Shift the selection up by 3px and delete. Nudge it down by 1px and set Opacity to 10%.

Create a new layer. Use the Polygonal Lasso Tool (L) to draw the shape above and Fill it with black. Use the Blur Tool and brush the area as shown above using 100% Strength. Remove the area outside the three layers using the process we used above then set Opacity to 16%.

Step 13: Giving More Impact

Create a new layer and use the Polygon Tool (U) to draw an upside-down triangle. Resizeposition it in the center like show above. Use the selection of the triangle to delete a portion (about 20px above) of the triangle. Duplicate it and move it about 40px away. Merge ctrl+E the layers together and set Opacity to 40%. Use the three layers to remove the area that is outside it. and

Create a new layer, get the selection of the three layers and brush the top center with a soft white Brush at 200px diameter. Set Opacity to 20%.

Use the three layers selection to Duplicate the Texture Stock and put it above the previous layers we were working on. Set Blending Mode to Luminosity and Opacity to 5%.

Step 14: Drawing The Board

Create a group called "Board" and a new layer inside called "Board". Draw a Round Rectangle (U) with 10px radius in #f5e14b at the center. Then apply the following Layer Styles to it.

Create a new layer and get the selection of "Board". Select > Contract by 15px then Fill it with black. Contract it again by 10px and delete. Set Opacity to 80%.

Step 15: Refining The Board

Create a new layer and get the selection of the Board. Fill it with white then shift the selection down and right by 2px each. Delete and set Opacity to 60%. Create another layerFill it with black then shift the selection up and left by 1px. Set Opacity to 40%. and get the selection of the Board.

Create a new layer for the arrow. Use the same process we used earlier to draw the arrows. Center it and set Opacity to 80%. Try to make it big so it will be visible on smaller resolution.

Create a new layer and get the selection of "Board". Use a soft Brush with black and whiteOpacity to 20% and Blending Mode to Pin Light. to paint the edges like above. Set

Shadings

Even on flat surface, applying a subtle shade can give the subject more interest.

Create a new layer and use the Pen Tool (P) to draw the shape above. Fill it by right-click > Fill Path with white. Then remove the area outside the board and set Opacity to 20% and Blending Mode to Soft Light,

Step 16: Grunge For The Board

Duplicate two Grunge texture from the stock and place one above the other. Set Blending Mode to Hard Light and Opacity to 10% for the bottom layer. Apply Filter > Stylize > Emboss for the second layer with 90 degree, 1px Height and 100% Amount. Set Blending Mode to Overlay and Opacity to 40%.

Nicer Textures

Using Emboss on textures can reduce the flatness of the surface.

Step 17: Drawing Screws

Create a new layer and draw one Ellipse (U) on the left with #d7d7d7. Duplicate and mirror it on the right then Merge ctrl+E the two layers together. Apply the Layer Styles below.

Create a new layer and Zoom (Z) in on one screw. Use either the Marquee Tool or Line Tool2px with black. Set the Opacity to 40%. Then create another layer and draw a 1px edge on the bottom right with white. Set Opacity to 80%. to draw the cross of

Step 18: Creating The Shadow

Create a new layer. Get the selection of "Face" and Fill it with black. Bring the layer just above the background layer. Convert it to Smart Object and resize it like seen above. Name it "Small Shadow". Create another layer and do the same thing, except without resizing. Nudge it 10px to the right. Call it "Big Shadow".

Smart Objects

Using Smart Objects you can easily experiment with different transformation and filters without destroying the original copy.

Apply a 3px Gaussian Blur to "Small Shadow" and set Opacity to 70%. Apply a 7px Gaussian Blur to "Big Shadow" and set Opacity to 30%

Now we are done go and take breake and come again When you feel you want to learn another .

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Text of glass effect filled with liquid

2010-11-19T08:55:00.000-08:00

Text of glass effect filled with liquid|make glass effect in text| text in glass effect |glass effect text like Juice in Glass cup|Create Liquid Filled Glass|tutorial

In this tutorial We will make text like Juice in Glass cup it will gave us an amazing text lets see the final product

The layer styles are a powerful tool for Photoshop that allow you to quickly create effects that you can then apply to other objects. Today we will show how to use layer styles to create a text effect in Photoshop filled with liquid. Let's get started!

Step 1

Start by creating a new document, 1500px by 1000px. Fill the bottom with a linear gradient using the color # acacac the foreground color and # e1e1e1 as background color. Start at the bottom of the file and go up.

Step 2

Now, type the text you want to apply the effect on, using the color #dbdbdb, the size 300px, and the font type is “Cooper Std”. Any bold font would be fine, just make sure it is bold.
Duplicate the text layer, and rename both layers as shown in the image below.

Step 3

Double click on the bottom layer (Psdtuts – bottom), and apply the following layer styles:

Step 4

Now, change the Fill value of the top layer (Psdtuts – top) to (0%), then double click on it, and apply the following layer styles:

Text of glass effect filled with liquid
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Step 5

Using the “Rectangle Tool”, draw a rectangle shape that covers the lower half of the text, the color should be #aa4280. Make sure that the rectangle shape layer is between the two text layers (‘Psdtuts – bottom’ and ‘Psdtuts – top’).

Step 6

Select the “Add Anchor Point Tool”, and start adding points at the edges of the letters, where they intersect with the rectangle.

Step 7

Once you’re done, begin adding points in between the edges, these will determine the tops and bottoms of the liquid. After adding the points, use the “Direct Selection Tool” to select those points and move them up and down. You can also use the “Delete Anchor Point Tool” to remove any unwanted points. Continue modifying the points until you’re satisfied with the result.

Step 8

We are going to rasterize the rectangle shape layer, so make a duplicate of the shape layer, then Right Click on the copy, and choose “Rasterize Layer”.
Press the Cmd/Ctrl key, and while you’re still pressing it, Right Click on the icon of one of the text layers to create a selection, then, press Cmd/Ctrl + Shift + I to invert the selection, and hit Delete.

Step 9

Double click on the rasterized shape layer, and apply the following styles.

Step 10

Now we’re done, but you can still change the color of the fluid fill simply by adding a Hue and Saturation adjustment layer, and choose the color you like!

Final Image

This is the final result.

I Hope that the lesson to be won like itAny one has questions about the lesson, and I let him I will answer it
A word of thanks will not take a minutes

create hot realistic fire effect

2010-11-17T04:51:00.000-08:00

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create hot realistic fire effect

In this tutorial I will show you how to make the real effect of the hot fire in text also you can add it to other shapes We thought it might be a good idea to apply this same effect to a picture of a sprinter, we could do this in a tutorial on the road but for now we will stick to the text. In addition, we have recently been contacted by the guys 10steps.sg and they have a tutorial that is very similar to this. Check it out here. Great minds think alike.

We will use a mix of images of flames of fire with filters and other methods of fusion of Photoshop layers to come up with something smooth!

Preview the final image:

step 1 :::

Create a document with a 300dpi with dimensions of 17 x 11 with a black background. Using the Type tool (T), select the font “Billboard” and type whatever you want to type for your fire text. We wanted to make sure that we knew how our type would look finished so we just typed and arranged the entire thing. As you can see below. After this, flatten the text layers by clicking them both in the layers palette (we have the “king” on one layer and “tutz” on another) and pushing Command + E. This will flatten them. This is what this step looks like:

Now we’ll use the marquee tool (M) to cut up the flattened text layer so we can apply different flame effects to each letter of the text. Simply select the marquee tool (M), drag a box around the letter “K”, right click, and select layer via cut. Do this for each of the letter so they are now all on their own layers.

We’ll start making the “K” look like it’s on fire. Right-click on the flattened K type layer in the layers palette and choose Blending Options. Check on Drop Shadow and key in the following settings:

Check on Color Overlay and key in the following settings.

Check on Satin and key in the following settings.

Check on Inner Glow and type in the following settings… choose a yellow that best suites you… here we used #e3bd29

We’re now going to rasterize/flatten the type layers but before we do so we’re going to right click on the flattened “k” layer in the layers palette and select Copy Layer Style. Then we’re going to right click on each of the other letter layers and select Paste Layer Style. This will allow us to transfer all of the settings to each letter. After this is done make a copy of each layer and hide it (this way we have a backup). After each backup has been made, flatten each individual type layer.

Using the Eraser tool with varying sizes and opacity fade off the top portion of each letter.

Go to Filter > Liquify. Select the Forward Warp Tool and key in the following settings. Using the Forward Warp tool, create some waves on the border of the type.

Now we’re going to add the awesome flames

You can get the flame image from here: Shaedsofgrey. In Photoshop, open the flame file you just downloaded. Now, go to Channels tab and select the Green layer (if you can’t find the channels tab go to Window > Channels. Ctrl + left click on the Green layer thumbnail to load selection of the highlight areas

.

Go back to Layers tab and use the Move Tool to drag any part of the selected area into the document with the “K” you did earlier. Place the fire above the type.

Using the Eraser tool with 15px, erase all the excessive fire, leaving only those parts that is waving around the type.

Duplicate the fire layer. Set the Opacity of the original fire to 30%. Set the Blend Mode of duplicated fire to Overlay.

Repeat the processes to cover the type with more flames. And there you got your first flaming type!

Create more flaming letters according to your own preferences.

Find a dark background to used. Resize and place the image into the document as shown below.

Create a layer above the Premade Background and fill it with #000000. Set the Opacity of this layer to 83%. Use the Eraser tool to reveal the top right of the image.

Create a new layer and name it “Glow“. Paint 3 huge red dot with the Brush tool (Soft Rounded) as shown in the screenshot below.

Set the Blend Mode of this layer to Color Dodge and Opacity to 16% and that’s it! Hope you enjoyed this tutorial!

make 3d ball with photoshop

2010-11-14T01:34:00.000-08:00

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make 3d ball with photoshop

This is what we’ll be creating

Okay, so take a bag of chips and a drink and let’s get to work ^^

Step 1:

First, let’s create a new canvas, say 400×400 pixels. Fill it with a dark gray, I chose #09192a. Make a new layer and then set your foreground color to #751900.
Step 2:
Take the Elliptical Marquee tool and holding Shift, draw on your new layer a perfect circle that fills about half the canvas. Take then the Bucket Tool and fill the selection you just created with the #751900 foreground color. Press Ctrl (Cmd on Mac)+D to deselect. Name your layer “Orb Base”.

Step 3:
Moooo-vin’ on. Now make another new layer on top of the “Orb Base” layer and name it “Shadow”. Right-click on it and choose “Create Clipping Mask”.
Once you do that, Ctrl (Cmd)+click on your “Orb Base” layer’s thumbnail in the layers palette to get a selection of it. Take then the Elliptical Marquee tool, and set it on “Substract from Selection”.

Okaaaay, now, click first somewhere top-left of your existing selection, then holding down the Shift key, drag to make a perfect circle with the Elliptical Marquee over your existing selection of the Orb Base, so that in the end you are left with a sort of…half-moon, a semiluna. This might be a bit difficult for beginners, but don’t give up! ^_^
Now, once you have your semiluna (make sure it is decently symmetric and balanced like mine, okay?) remember that layer that we named “Shadow”? Well, make sure it is your “working on” layer (aka, it is a blueish color) and then set your foreground color to #49230f and your background color to #160d07.

Step 4:
Now, take the Gradient tool, make sure it is set to “Foreground to Background” and “Reverse” is NOT ticked, set it to “Radial Gradient” and clicking inside the selection, about at half-width, drag a little distance and then release the mouse button. Now your gradient should be filling the selection, with the foreground (lighter) color to the center and the background (darker) color to the “horns” of the half-moon ^__^
Press Ctrl(Cmd)+D to deselect…….

Step 5:
Aaand…this is where the fun begins ^^
Now you should have: 1 background layer, 1 Orb Base layer, 1 Shadow layer (which we made the “Clipping Mask” of the Orb Base).
Now I’ll take a second and explain what Clipping Masks are, for anyone who doesn’t know. Basically, they are a sort of “servant” of the layer beneath them, their patron-layer if you like. If we have a circle on a patron layer, whatever we draw on the Clipping Mask one will NEVER go out of the boundaries of the patron ^^ Whatever pixels are filled in the patron will be visible in the servant as well, nothing else :)
Back to our orb now. Click the “Orb Base” layer and then click the “New Layer” icon, to create a new layer between your “patron” and your “servant” layers. As you notice, the layer you just created inherits the characteristic of the one above it (Shadow) and becomes NOT a normal layer but a Clipping Mask as well.
Mmkay. That’s exactly what we want, so! Take the Elliptical Marquee tool, and make a perfect circle roughly around all the orange you see.
It doesn’t have to be exact so no worry if it goes a liiittle bit over, like in my screenshot.

Now make sure you have your newly-created layer selected and name it “Bottom Glow”…so it has a name we can identify easily, we don’t want the poor layer to have an identity crisis do we? ^__~
Kay, now! Set your foreground color to #eb460f and your background color to #8b2c0b .
With the Gradient Tool, click at the lowest point of the selection and holding Shift drag only a little bit upwards. Juuust a little bit, so the colors boundary is visible near the bottom. Don’t deselect!

Step 6:
Keeping your selection, make a new layer and name it “Highlight Bottom” just about the “Bottom Glow” layer. Of course this new layer will be a Clipping Mask too….
Take the Marquee tool and set it to “New Selection -this button is a little bit left than the “Substract from Selection” button we clicked earlier in Step 3 ^_~
This will allow you to move your selection. So, move it a little upwards….and with your “Highlight Bottom” layer as your working one take the gradient tool, click on it’s icon at the top bar near the “New Selection” button and add these settings:

Then once you clicked OK go back to your selection and positioning your pointer at

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its bottommost point, press Shift and drag upwardsto approximately a third of the selection’s height. Still, DON’T deselect.
Step 7:
Make a new layer above the Highlight Bottom one, name it “Side Shadows”.
Kay, now go to Select—>Transform Selection.

Squeeze your selection so that it becomes an ellipse..like this:

Step 8:
Now press Ctrl(Cmd)+Shift+I to inverse selection. Take the Gradient tool, set it to Foreground to Transparent, then set your Foreground color to #672f00 .
Set your gradient to Linear Gradient. And on the “Side Shadows” layer, click to the left side of the Orb, and pressing Shift, drag a little to the right. Do the same for the right side, drag to the left in its case though ^^ Like in my screenshot :)
Set your “Side Shadows” layer to Multiply blending mode and lower its opacity to about 80%

Step 9:
Now let’s start giving it highlights ^__^
Create a new layer and name it “Highlights 1″ ………yea, you guessed right, we’re going to have more highlights layers hahaha…
so, name it “Highlights 1″ and set your Foreground color to #ffffcb.
Once you do that, make an oval selection using the Elliptical Marquee tool, on the top-right of the orb, similar to mine:

Take the Gradient Tool and with it set to Foreground to Transparent, hold down Shify key and drag diagonally from the outer-top-right side of the selection to the bottom-lower-left part, like this:

Set it to Linear Dodge blending mode and lower its Fill toabout 70%
Step 10:
Now make a new layer again, name it “Highlights 2″ and Ctrl(Cmd)+click on your Highlights Bottom layer thumbnail in the layers palette to get its selection.
Use the Marquee tool like beore to move it upwards, until its bottommost point is about that half the height of the total orb.
Now with your foreground color set to #ffffcb, take the Gradient tool set to Foreground to transparent, hold Shift and drag from the top to the bottom of the selection. Set your layer to Linear Dodge and lower its fill to about 40%
Step 11:
Make a new layer, name it “Highlights 3″ and taking the Elliptical Marquee draw a perfect circle at the top, covering about 2/3 of the orb, like this:

Now change your foreground color to #ffff71 and with the same gradient settings as before drag from top to bottom. Set the layer to Color Dodge and lower opacity to about 30%
After this….well we just go on with the highlighta, hahaha…let’s see, I promise just a couple more and we’re done with them :)
Make a new layer, name it “Highlights 4″ and with the same Marquee, make a selection similar to the previous, only smaller in diameter. Only this time, make sure that it doesn’t touch the top margin of the orb, but is some 15-20px lower. Using #ffffef as your foreground color, drag as previously from top to bottm of the selection, then set your layer blending mode to Linear Dodge and lower its Fill to 25%
Make a new layer yet again, name it “Highlights 5″ and make an ellipse with the marquee tool, whose top begins where the top of the last circle began but as an ellipse, it is shorter in height, like this:

Step 12:
Set your layer to Color Dodge and lower its Fill to 30%
Now let’s take care of some more shadows ^^
Click on your “Highlight Bottom” layer, then click on New Layer icon. Name it “Shadows Center 1″.
Take the gradient too, keep it Foreground to Transparent, but change its style from the top menu to “Reflected Gradient”. As a foreground color, use #6c3000
Position your cursor at about a third of the orb -to the bottom- and drag for about 30 pixels upwards.
Then release the mouse button and set the layer to Multiply, and lower its fill to about 5-8%
New layer again, name it “Shadows Center 2″..or something xD
Ctrl(CMD)+click on your “Highlight Bottom” layer thumbnail to select it, then use the Marquee tool to move the selection upwards about 25px.
Like this:

Using the same color as before, set your gradient to Linear Gradient, Foreground to Tranparent and drag, this time from bottom to top of the selection. Don’t deselect. Set the layer to Multiply and lower Fill to 30%
Make another new layer. Name it “Shadows Center 3″. Move it about 10px upwards. Same gradient as before, fill it from bottom to top, so that the transparency shows at the top.
Set it to Multiply and lower Fill to 35%.
Step 13:
Now let’s add the refining touches ^^
Make a new layer above all others (but make sure it is still a Clipping Mask), name it “Border1″ and get a selection of your Orb Base layer.
Set your foreground color to #38180c, then go to Edit->Stroke, choose 10px and Center.
Click OK then set your layer to 60% Fill.
Now let’s transform this to an ellipse, so go and press Ctrl(Cmd)+T and pull its tip&bottom, so it becomes a vertical ellipse whose top goes over the margin of the Orb and is not visible anymore, and the sides are the only ones left visible.
Make another new layer, move it under the Border1 layer, get a new selection of the Orb Base, set your foreground color to #160d07 and go to Edit->Stroke, shoose 12px.
Click okay, then set your layer to Linear Burn and lower its Fill to 70%
Now, your Orb should look something like this:

Step 14:
New Layer above all others, but it must still be a clipping mask. Name it “Flare White” . Set your foreground color to #ffffa4 and your backgorund color to #ffb409.
go to the brushes palette and choose a soft, round brush, around 20px in size. Now, see where the most glowy part of bottom half of the orb is? Click once with your airbrush over it. Now set your layer to Linear Dodge and using Transform, make it an ellipse by pulling the sides and pushing the top/bottom. After that, your orb should look like this:

Step 15:
Click X to reverse your Foreground with your Background colors.
Make a new layer and move it under your “Flare White” layer. Name it “Flare Orange”.
Get a selection of your “Flare White” layer and go to Select–>Modify–>Expand. Choose a value around 4px.
Click OK and then fill your selection with the foreground color, #ffb409.
Set your layer to Overlay blending mode.
Now your image should look like this:

Step 16:
Let’s take care of the borders now, shall we? :)
Set your foreground color to #6a6974.
Make a new layer and move it under ALL the orb layers that you have, so that it is above the background color layer. name it “Ring Small”
Get a selection of your Orb Base layer and go to Edit->Stroke, shoose 14px and Center.
Now click OK and enter the layer’s Blending Options.
Add these settings:

Step 17:
Now make a new layer yet again, move in uner your “Ring Small” layer, name it “Ring Large”and go to Select—>Modify—>Expand, choose a value around 15px.
Now set your Foreground color to #635337 and go to Edit—>Stroke–>about 15-17px.
Now add your layer these settings:

Step 18:
Now your orb should look something like this:

Now get a selection of your “Ring Large” layer and go to the bottom of your Layers palette, click “New Fill or Adjustment Layer” and choose “Photo Filter”.
Choose #ac7a33 as a color and around 60% Density. Make sure “Preserve Luminosity” is ticked.
Now obtain a new selection of your “Ring Large” layer and go to the same Photo Filter, only this time choose #ec8a00 as color, 56% Density and again, Preserve Luminosity must be ticket. Your orb should now look similar to this:

Step 19:
Kaaay…we’re alllmost done, rejoyce! ^___^
Deselect. Now let’s deal with the blue glow, shall we?
Make a new layer, above the Photo Filters but below the “Ring Small” layer. Name it “Blue Glow”. Choose #277ef5 as your Foreground color. Get a selection of your “Ring Large” layer and take the Gradient tool, st it to “Color to Transparent” and to Linear Gradient and click&drag from right to left over a distance of about 50px on the right side of the large ring.
Do the same on the left side, only drag from left to right.
Set your layer to Hard Light, duplicate it and now your orb should have a fancy contrasting electric blue glow…:

Step 20:
Deselect. Make a new layer…(yea that’s how all the steps seem to start huh) xD;
Yea, like I was saying. Make a new layer and move it on to of your “Rings” layers, so the it right under the “Orb Base” one. Name it “Top Orange Glow”
Ctrl(Cmd)+click on the thumbnail of the “Ring Large” layer, then Shift+Ctrl(Cmd)+click on the thumbnail of the “Ring Small” layer.
Like this, you should have the selections of both layers in one selection ^_^
Riiight, now set you Foreground color to #eaa602 and taking the same gradient tool as before, with the same settings, click above the selection and pressing Shift at the same time drag down for about 100px.
Set your layer to color Dodge and Fill 30%, then duplicate it.
Your orb now:

Step 21:
Now ………….make a new layer! hahaha. Yea, make a new layer on top of the other Rings layers, name it “Bottom Shadow” and set your foreground color to #53442c. Now take the Gradient tool, and drag from bottom upwards for about 100px distance. Deselect. Set layer to Multiply.
Ta-daaaa…now your orb is fancy and sweet like this:

Step 22:

Iiiif you want to add extra fancy to your orb, let’s go give it some rusty texture ^^
Set your Foreground color to#d69308 and take a Spatter 46 brush from your brushes palette. Make a new layer and move it just above the “Ring Large” layer. Name it “Rust”. Obtain a selection of the “Ring Large” and start clicking randomly around with your brush.
Then take the Eraser tool, set its brush to a Spatter 39px and start erasing, randomly again. Leave just a little texture here&there.
Set your layer to Multiply and lower Opacity to 81% and Fill to 89%.
Step 23:
Now go to your Rust layer’s Blending Options, and give it these settings:

step24 :

go to sleep for year after this tutorial
you can also add text or something you like

please leav your comment if you make this tutorial

How to add Light Streaks To A Photo photoshop tutorials

2010-11-07T15:02:00.000-08:00

photoshop lessons ,pohtoshop tutorials,photoshop tools ,adobe,course,text effect,photo effect

in the first tutorial we will show you how to add colorful streaks of light to a photo. You've probably seen these light streaks used in ads for everything from shampoo to cellphones, and in fact they were used most recently in a cool ad for a new cellphone from Sprint and Samsung. Creating them is as easy as drawing a path with Photoshop's Pen Tool and then stroking the path with a brush, with a couple of simple layer styles used to add the actual color and light effect. It's all fairly easy,

this is the image which i will work on it

How to add Light Streaks To A Photo :photoshop tutorials

final image

adding Light Streaks

Let's get started!

Step 1: Add A New Blank Layer

We're going to be adding our light streaks on their own separate layer, so the first thing we need to do is add a new blank layer to our document. To do that, click on the New Layer icon at the bottom of the Layers palette:

Photoshop Tutorials: Clicking on the "New Layer" icon.

This adds a new blank layer, which Photoshop names "Layer 1", above our Background layer:

Photoshop Tutorials: A new layer appears above the Background layer.

Step 2: Select The Pen Tool

As I mentioned at the beginning, we're going to create our light streaks by drawing paths and then stroking the paths with a brush. To draw paths, we need the Pen Tool, so select it from the Tools palette. You can also press the letter P to select it with the keyboard shortcut:

Photoshop Tutorials: Select the Pen Tool.

Step 3: Select The "Paths" Option In The Options Bar

Photoshop gives us three different things that we can do with the Pen Tool. We can use it to draw vector-based shapes, we can draw paths with it (which is what we want to do), and we can draw pixel-based shapes. We select between these three options by clicking on their icons up in the Options Bar at the top of the screen. You'll see three little square icons grouped together on the left side of the Options Bar. Click on the icon in the middle, which is the Paths option:

Photoshop Tutorials: Click on the "Paths" icons in the Options Bar.

Step 4: Draw A Path Where You Want The First Light Streak To Appear

With the Pen Tool selected and the Paths option chosen in the Options Bar, we're ready to draw our first path. I want my light streaks to appear in the bottom half of the photo, somewhere around the woman's shoulders and neck area, so that's where I'll draw my first path. You'll want to add several curves to your path to make the light streak more interesting. I'll start by clicking somewhere in the bottom left corner of the image to add my first anchor point, then I'll drag out direction handles in the direction that I want my path to follow. Again, be sure to check out our Making Selections With The Pen Tool tutorial first if what I just said made no sense to you:

Photoshop Tutorials: Clicking in the document to add an anchor point, then dragging out direction handles.

I'll continue drawing the rest of my first path by clicking and dragging a couple more times with the Pen Tool to add the rest of my path segments. I now have my first path running from left to right across the woman's shoulders and neck area:

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How to add Light Streaks To A Photo photoshop tutorials

Step 5: Select The Brush Tool

Now that we've drawn our first path, the next step is to stroke it with a brush. For that, we'll need Photoshop's Brush Tool, so select it from the Tools palette, or simply press the letter B on your keyboard:

Photoshop Tutorials: Select the Brush Tool.

Step 6: Select The "40 Sampled Tip" Brush

Photoshop comes with several brushes that would work well for our light streak effect, but after trying a few of them out, I've found one I like the best. To select it, we'll need to bring up the Brushes palette. There's a few different ways to bring up the Brushes palette, and one of them is to click on the Brushes palette toggle icon in the Options Bar at the top of the screen:

Photoshop Tutorials: Click on the Brushes palette toggle icon to bring up the Brushes palette.

When the Brushes palette appears, click on the words Brush Tip Shape in the top left corner of the palette. Then, in the Brush tip selection area on the right, scroll down near the bottom of the list and select the 40 Sampled Tip brush. It just says "40" in the preview area, but if you have Tool Tips enabled in Photoshop's Preferences, you'll see the words "Sampled Tip" appear when you hover your mouse over the brush:

Photoshop Tutorials: Click on the words "Brush Tip Shape" in the top left corner, then click on the "40 Sampled Tip" brush in the selection area.

Step 7: Lower The "Spacing" Amount To 1%

Down at the bottom of the Brushes palette, directly above the brush preview area, you'll see the Spacing option. Whenever you paint with a brush in Photoshop, even though it usually appears as though you're painting one continuous stroke, what Photoshop is really doing is "stamping" the image over and over again with the brush tip. If the "stamps" are close enough together, they appear as a continuous stroke. The Spacing option determines how far apart the stamps will appear, and by default, the option is set to 30% for our "40 Sampled Tip" brush. That's too much of a space for our effect. Use the slider bar to lower the Spacing amount all the way down to 1%. If you look at the brush preview area after lowering the Spacing amount to 1%, you'll see that the brush now appears as one continuous stroke:

Photoshop Tutorials: Lower the "Spacing" amount to 1% to smooth out the appearance of the brush stroke.

Step 8: Set The Brush Size Control To "Pen Pressure"

If we were to stroke the path with our brush right now, the light streak effect wouldn't look very good because the brush would appear at the exact same size all along the path. We need the brush to taper off at both ends to create the illusion that the light streak is actually beginning at one end and ending at the other. For that, we'll need to tell Photoshop to simulate pen pressure for us, as if we were drawing with a pen tablet.
Click directly on the words Shape Dynamics on the left of the Brushes palette, directly below "Brush Tip Shape". Make sure you click directly on the words, not just in the checkbox to the left of the words. Clicking inside the checkbox will enable the Shape Dynamics options but won't allow us to change any of them. We need to click on the words themselves to get access to the options. Once you've clicked on the words, you'll see the Shape Dynamics options appear on the right of the palette. At the very top, you'll see the words "Size Jitter" with a slider bar, and directly below the slider bar is the Control option. This is where we get to decide how to control the size of our brush. We want Photoshop to simulate pen pressure, so select Pen Pressure from the Control drop-down menu:

Photoshop Tutorials: Click directly on the words "Shape Dynamics" on the left, then set the "Control" option on the right to "Pen Pressure".

Now, at the moment, all we've done is told Photoshop that we want to control the size of our brush according to pen pressure, but what if you don't actually have a pen tablet? If you don't have one connected to your computer, you'll see a little warning icon appear to the left of the word "Control" telling you that a pen tablet is required, but don't worry about it. In a moment, we're going to be telling Photoshop to simulate pen pressure for us, so for this effect, it makes no difference whether you have a pen tablet or not.

Step 9: Set Your Foreground Color To White

We have our brush ready to go. Now all we need to do is choose the color we want to paint with. We're going to want to paint with white, which means we need our Foreground color to be white. Press the letter D on your keyboard to make sure your Foreground and Background colors are reset to their defaults, with black as your Foreground color and white as your Background color. Then press the letter X to swap them, making white your Foreground color:

Step 10: Save Your Path

We have our path, we have our brush, and we've set our Foreground color to white. We're ready to create our first light streak! Switch over to Photoshop's Paths palette, which you'll find grouped in with the Layers and Channels palettes. You'll see your path listed, which is currently named "Work Path", along with a preview of the path on the left, similar to how layers are shown in the Layers palette with their name on the right and a preview area on the left. Whenever you create a new path, Photoshop automatically names it "Work Path", which means it's temporary. If you don't save the path before drawing a new one, the new path will replace the previous one and you'll have lost it. In many cases, this isn't a problem, but let's save our path just in case we want to go back to it later.
To save a path, all we need to do is rename it. Simply double-click on the name "Work Path" and Photoshop will pop up the Save Path dialog box, with the suggested name of "Path 1" already entered for you. Click OK to exit out of the dialog box and Photoshop will rename the path "Path 1". The path is now saved:

Photoshop Tutorials: The Paths palette showing the path now saved and renamed "Path 1".

Step 11: Stroke The Path With The Brush

Let's create our first light streak. Click on the small, right-pointing arrow in the top right corner of the Paths palette, which brings up the Paths palette's fly-out menu, then select Stroke Path from the list of options:

Photoshop Tutorials: Select "Stroke Path" from the fly-out menu.

This brings up the Stroke Path dialog box. We want to stroke the path with our brush, so make sure the Tool option is set to Brush. Then, to tell Photoshop to simulate pen pressure for us, click inside the checkbox to the left of the words Simulate Pressure:

Photoshop Tutorials: Set the "Tool" option to "Brush" and make sure "Simulate Pressure" is selected.

Click OK to exit out of the dialog box and Photoshop will stroke the path with the brush, creating our first light streak. Notice how the brush stroke tapers off at both ends thanks to that "Simulate Pressure" option:

Photoshop Tutorials: The image after stroking the path with the brush.

If you think your brush stroke is either too thick or too narrow, simply press Ctrl-Z (Win) / Command-Z (Mac) to undo the stroke, then make your brush larger or smaller by pressing either the left or right bracket keys on your keyboard. The left bracket key makes the brush smaller, and the right bracket key makes it larger. Try again once you've resized your brush.
We've added our first light streak, but it doesn't look much like a light streak at the moment. It looks like a fancy white brush stroke, which is exactly what it is. To make it look more like a light streak, we need to add some color and some glow effects, and for that, we'll use a couple of simple layer styles.

Step 12: Add An "Outer Glow" Layer Style

Switch back over to your Layers palette. You'll see your white brush stroke in the preview area of "Layer 1". Click on the Layer Styles icon at the bottom of the Layers palette and select Outer Glow from the list of layer styles that appears:

Photoshop Tutorials: Add an "Outer Glow" layer style in the Layers palette.

This brings up Photoshop's Layer Style dialog box set to the Outer Glow options in the middle column. Change the Blend Mode option at the top to Linear Light, which will give us a much more intense glow than what we'd normally get. Then choose a color for your glow by clicking on the small color swatch directly below the word "Noise". This will bring up Photoshop's Color Picker. You can either choose your color from the Color Picker, or if you prefer, you can sample a color directly from the image. To sample a color, simply move your mouse cursor over the image. You'll see your mouse icon turn into the Eyedropper icon. Move the eyedropper over the color you want to sample, then click to sample it. I'm going to sample a light area of the woman's skin to use as my outer glow color:

Photoshop Tutorials: Sampling a color from the image to use as the color for the outer glow.

Once you've chosen your color, click OK to exit out of the Color Picker. Lastly, increase the Size30 pixels. You may need to raise or lower that amount depending on the size and resolution of your image: of the outer glow to somewhere around

Photoshop Tutorials: Change the blend mode, color and size of the outer glow.

Don't exit out of the Layer Style dialog box just yet because we still have one more layer style to add. Here's how my light streak looks so far after adding my outer glow:

Step 13: Add An "Inner Glow" Layer Style

We've added an outer glow layer style to our light streak. Now let's add an inner glow style. With the Layer Style dialog box still open, click on the words Inner Glow on the left of the dialog box, directly below "Outer Glow":

Photoshop Tutorials: Select "Inner Glow" on the left of the Layer Style dialog box.

You'll see the Inner Glow options appear in the middle column of the dialog box. Once again change the Blend Mode option at the top to Linear Light. Then click on the color swatch below the word "Noise" and either choose a color from the Color Picker or, as I did with the outer glow, sample a color directly from the image. I'm going to sample a darker area of the woman's skin for my inner glow color:

Photoshop Tutorials: Sampling a darker skin color to use as the color for the inner glow.

Once you've chosen the color for your inner glow, click OK to exit out of the Color Picker. Finally, increase the Size of your inner glow to around 10 pixels. As with the outer glow, you may need to play around with this value a bit depending on the size and resolution of your image:

Photoshop Tutorials: Change the blend mode, color and size of the inner glow.

Click OK when you're done to exit out of the Layer Style dialog box. Your light streak should now have an intense glow to it:

Photoshop Tutorials: The light streak now appears with a bright, colorful glow.

That thin dark line we're seeing through the middle of our light streak is the path. Don't worry, it won't be there when we're done.

Step 14: Edit The Path To Create A Slight Variation Of It

Let's make our light streak a bit more interesting by adding a couple more streaks to it. We can do that easily by simply editing our path to create some slight variations of it and then stroking each variation with our brush. Switch back to your Paths palette so we can edit our path. Then, hold down your Ctrl (Win) / Command (Mac) key and move your mouse cursor directly over any part of the path. As soon as it's over the path, you'll see the cursor turn into a white pointer, which means you now have temporary access to Photoshop's Direct Selection Tool, which is the tool we need to edit our path:

Photoshop Tutorials: Hold down "Ctrl" (Win) / "Command" (Mac) and move the mouse cursor directly over the path to temporarily access the Direct Selection Tool (white pointer).

Click on the path with the Direct Selection Tool to select it, then make some minor adjustments to the path to create a slightly different path. You can drag an anchor point to a slightly different spot, or move direction handles to adjust the curves of the path, or even drag a path segment to a slightly different position. Just don't touch the anchor points at either end of the path because we want each variation we create to begin and end at the exact same spot. So other than those two anchor points, the rest of the path can be edited any way you like. We're not looking for major changes to the path. Small, subtle changes are all we need.
Here, I've changed the two main curves of my path slightly by dragging the two direction handles extending out from my middle anchor point. You can see how the curves of the path no longer exactly match the curve of the first light streak:

Photoshop Tutorials: Create a slight variation of the initial path by moving anchor points, direction handles or path segments.

We can now stroke this variation of the path with our brush. But before we do, we'll probably want to use a slightly smaller brush this time, so press the left bracket key on your keyboard a couple of times to make the brush a bit smaller.
To stroke the variation of our path, there's no need to go through the hassle of selecting "Stroke Path" from the Paths palette's fly-out menu like we did last time. Simply click on the Stroke Path icon at the bottom of the Paths palette:

Photoshop Tutorials: Click on the "Stroke Path" icon at the bottom of the Paths palette.

Photoshop strokes the new path we created with our brush. Since we're still working on the same layer in the Layers palette, the Outer Glow and Inner Glow layer styles are automatically applied to our new light streak:

Step 15: Create A Couple More Path Variations And Stroke Them With The Brush

Repeat the previous step one or two more times to create more variations of the path and stroke each one with the brush. Try changing the size of the brush each time using the left and right bracket keys to add even more interest to the light streak. If you don't like the brush stroke you just added, simply press Ctrl+Z (Win) / Command+Z (Mac) to undo it, then re-edit the path and try again.
If you want to see what your light streak looks like without the path blocking your view, simply click anywhere in the empty area below the path in the Paths palette. This will deselect the path and hide it from view. To see the path again, click on it in the Paths palette. You'll need to have your path visible any time you want to stroke it with your brush. If the path is not visible, the icons at the bottom of the Paths palette become grayed out and unavailable.
Here's my image after editing my path a couple more times and stroking each new path variation with the brush. Again, since we're still working on the same layer, "Layer 1", in the Layers palette, the Outer Glow and Inner Glow layer styles are automatically applied to each new brush stroke. I've hidden my path from view so we can see more easily what the light streak now looks like with all its different variations:

Photoshop Tutorials: The first light streak after adding a few variations to it.

Step 16: Copy The Layer Styles On "Layer 1"

And with that, we've created our first light streak! You're probably going to want to add at least one more to your photo, and it's a good idea to place each light streak on its own layer, but we can cut down on some of the work we'll need to do by copying the layer styles we've already applied to our first light streak and simply pasting them onto each new layer we create. Switch back over to your Layers palette. You should still have "Layer 1" selected. Go up to the LayerLayer Style, and then choose Copy Layer Style: menu at the top of the screen, choose

Photoshop Tutorials: With "Layer 1" selected, go to Layer &gt; Layer Style &gt; Copy Layer Style.

Step 17: Add A New Blank Layer

Click on the New Layer icon at the bottom of the Layers palette to add another blank layer. Photoshop will add the new layer above "Layer 1" and automatically name it "Layer 2":

Photoshop Tutorials: Add a new blank layer above "Layer 1".

Step 18: Paste The Layer Styles Onto The New Layer

With the new layer selected, go back up to the Layer menu at the top of the screen, choose Layer Style once again, and this time, choose Paste Layer Style:

Photoshop Tutorials: Go to Layer &gt; Layer Style &gt; Paste Layer Style.

The Outer Glow and Inner Glow styles from "Layer 1" are now added to "Layer 2" and will automatically be applied to the next light streak we create!

Step 19: Add Another Light Streak

With a new layer added and the layer styles from "Layer 1" already applied to the new layer, we can easily create a second light streak. Simply draw a new path with the Pen Tool, save the path if you want by renaming it "Path 2" (or whatever you want to name it), then stroke the path with the brush. Once you've created the main light streak, hold down Ctrl (Win) / Command (Mac) to access the Direct Selection Tool and edit the path, moving anchor points, direction handles and/or path segments to create a few slight variations of it, and then stroke each variation with the brush, using a different brush size each time.
Here's my result after adding a second light streak to my photo:

Photoshop Tutorials: The image after adding a second light streak.

If you don't want both light streaks to be the same color, you can easily change the colors simply by editing the layer styles. Let's say I want my second light streak to be a different color. To edit the layer styles, all I need to do is double-click on the Layer Style icon on the far right of "Layer 2":

Photoshop Tutorials: Double-click on the Layer Style icon to edit the layer styles for that layer.

This will pop open the Layer Style dialog box for me. All I'd need to do is click on the words Outer Glow on the left side of the dialog box, which brings up the Outer Glow options in the middle column, then click on the color swatch and choose a new color either from the Color Picker or by sampling a different color from the image. Click OK to exit out of the Color Picker, then click on the words Inner Glow on the left to access the Inner Glow options. Click the color swatch, choose a new color, click OK to exit out of the Color Picker, then click OK to exit out of the Layer Style dialog box. You can edit the colors of the light streaks any time you want simply by editing the layer styles.
Here's my final result after editing the layer styles on "Layer 2" and changing the color of my second light streak slightly, using colors I sampled from the woman's hair:

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