• Jerry Pullover in Hawk
• Home & Away Collection
• Rangeley Pullover in Phoebe
• Wool Crossbody Tote
• Floops Flox Multi Tool

• Canvas Interchangeable Needle Case
• Lykke Needle Set / Hook Set
• Magnetic Wooden Needle Case
• Acrylic Fix-it Tool
• Floops Flox Multi Tool
• E-Gift Card

• Gillian Beret in Lark
• Celine Beret in Sparrow
• Canvas Bucket Bag
• March Beret in Chickadee
• Macaron Pom Maker
• Day Beret in Chickadee

• All Purpose Carrying Case
• Piper + Squirrel Notions Tin
• Canvas Crossbody Tote
• Magnetic Wooden Needle Case

• Natural Dyes
• Natural Dye Bundle
• Undyed Cotton (Whimbrel / Willet)
• Undyed Wool (Finch / Chickadee / Lark / Osprey / Puffin)

• Lätta in Sparrow
• Stibiden in Tern
• Atlee in Willet
• Soulbound in Willet
• Fresia in Sparrow

• Wooden Gauge Wheel
• Oeste Candle
• Eight by Eight Blanket in Lark
• Home collection ebook
• Market Storage Basket
• Epuron in Kestrel
• Lily Slipper Flats in Osprey

Whether you're casting on your very first pair or finally diving into that long-awaited sock pattern, these simple tips will set you up for success before you pick up your very first stitch.

Materials used:

For this tutorial, we used…

• Starling, with its expansive palette of 26 solids and 5 self-striping options it’s an ideal choice for sock knitting.

• Sock sizing ruler, a handy tool that makes it easy to measure your progress, whether you're working toe-up or cuff-down.

1. Choose the right yarn for the wip

Regular fingering-weight yarn and sock yarn are similar in size and can often be knit to the same gauge, but they aren’t always interchangeable. The way a yarn is spun and its fiber content can make a big difference in how it behaves in your project.

For your first pair, look for the yarn that matches the project, not just one that matches your gauge. Starling is a blend of superwash merino with a touch of recycled polyamide for elasticity and structure, while a yarn like Tern will create a softer and shinier fabric.

Both yarns will make beautiful socks, but the finished pair will wear and feel very different depending on the yarn you choose. Even if two yarns match in gauge, their structure and fiber content can lead to very different results. Trust your pattern and always double check the fiber content you are looking to match. Swatching is a simple way to get a sense of how your yarn will behave before you dive into your project.

Starling Sock Pattern Suggestion: Legato

Tern Sock Pattern Suggestion: Pear Galette

2. Consider how the sock feels on your foot

If you’re sensitive to textures, try what is called a “princess sole.” Instead of working the sole in stockinette knit stitches, use reverse stockinette, purling the knit stitches, so that the smooth side of the fabric will sit against your skin. 

The term comes from The Princess and the Pea, and while it's a small adjustment, it can make a big difference in your comfort.

3. Build your own sock template

Before you cast on, trace your foot on a piece of paper and note key measurements like overall foot length and where your heel begins. This gives you a reference point as you knit, so you can check your progress without constantly trying on the sock.

If you catch the sock-knitting bug, you might want to invest in a sock sizing ruler for a more durable, long-term solution.

4. Remember negative ease

Socks need to stretch to stay put. A hand-knit sock should be slightly smaller than the foot it’s intended to fit. This is called negative ease. As a general rule, aim for a finished sock that’s about 10 percent smaller in circumference and half an inch shorter in length than the actual foot. For example, if your foot measures 9 inches around, choose a sock size with a finished circumference of about 8 to 8.25 inches.

As a general rule, to find your personalized negative ease measure the ball of your foot, flat on the ground, to find your circumference and then multiply that by 0.95 to find your negative ease. 

A snug fit means less slouching, and less of a chance that your socks will constantly bunch up in your shoes.

5. Try pre-darning for longer wear

Some areas of your sock may wear out faster than others. This is based on how you stand and is different for everyone. If the ball of the foot or the tips of the toes tend to wear out first, try pre-darning. Before you ever wear them, reinforce those high-friction zones with a simple duplicate stitch. It thickens the fabric without changing the fit and adds an invisible layer of strength where you need it most.

Bonus Tip: Don’t try to read the whole pattern at once

Sock patterns can look intimidating on the first pass, especially if you’re new to the process. Take it one section and even one row at a time and trust the instructions. Your socks will take shape step by step.

Ready to cast on? Starling is our favorite for smooth, strong stitches that hold up to wear. For more sock tips, check out our past Tip Tuesdays on toe-up vs. cuff-down and perfectly fitted toes.

Today's tip walks you through this essential technique step by step, plus why it's such a favorite among experienced knitters.

Materials We Used in This Tutorial

For this tutorial, we used:

• Wren: our worsted weight blend of American wool and organic cotton. Its wonderfully natural springiness makes it perfect for practicing this new technique.

• Lykke 5" Multi Color Interchangeable Circular Needles (we used a size US 5 / 3.75mm):  the smooth birchwood finish helps your stitches glide easily as you stitch.

What Makes the German Twisted Cast On Special?

The German twisted cast on creates an incredibly elastic edge that bounces back beautifully after stretching. Unlike a standard long-tail cast on, this technique creates small loops between each stitch that provide extra stretch, making it the perfect cast on for sock cuffs that need to go over heels, or sweater hems that need to move with your body.

The secret? Each stitch is twisted as it's cast on, creating that distinctive stretchy structure.

How to Work the German Twisted Cast On: A Step-by-Step Guide

Set-Up:

First, estimate your tail length: count out how many stitches you want to cast on, then wrap your yarn around your needle that many times and double that length—that's about how long your tail should be. Start with your yarn in a slingshot position. Place your needle on top of the slingshot and twist to create the first stitch. Hold your needle in your right hand, with the working yarn (attached to the ball) over your index finger and the tail over your thumb.

Step 1: Position Your Needle

With your yarn in the slingshot position, bring your needle under both strands from your thumb, then place it on top of the strand that's furthest away from you (the back strand of your thumb loop)

Step 2: Grab the Index Yarn

Reach around with your needle to grab the yarn from your index finger and pull it through the hole created by your thumb strands. As you pull the yarn through, move your thumb slightly to help open up that hole—this makes the motion much smoother.

Step 3: Secure the Stitch

Place the twisted loop on your needle and gently tighten by pulling down on both yarn strands.

Step 4: Reset and Repeat

Drop the loop from your thumb and reset your grip with the tail over your thumb again. Repeat steps 1-3 for each additional stitch.

Pro Tips for Success

Watch Your Tension: Keep your cast-on stitches loose enough that you can easily knit into them on your first row, but not so loose that they look sloppy. The twist naturally creates some tightness, so err on the side of slightly loose.

Count Twice: It's easy to lose track when learning this technique. Count your stitches every 10 or so to make sure you're on track.

Practice Makes Perfect: If the rhythm feels awkward at first, that's completely normal. Try casting on a practice swatch of 20-30 stitches to get comfortable with the motion before starting your actual project.

When to Use This Cast On

The German twisted cast on shines when you need maximum stretch:

• Sock cuffs and toe-up sock toes

• Bottom edges of sweaters, especially fitted styles

• Hat brims

• Any ribbed edge that needs to stretch over body parts

Final Tip

Not sure if this cast on is right for your project? Swatch it! Cast on 20 stitches using the German twisted cast on, work a few rows in your planned stitch pattern, then make another swatch and cast on 20 stitches using your usual method. Compare the stretch and appearance. You'll immediately see the difference.

Looking for more essential knitting techniques? Check out our full collection of Tip Tuesday posts for more ways to grow as a stitcher.

Today’s tip breaks it down step by step, plus a few handy tricks to help your edge turn out just right.

Materials We Used

For this tutorial, we used:

Chickadee: This soft, springy yarn has beautiful stitch definition with just the right amount of bounce. It’s perfect for showing off the cushiony, rounded look of the tubular cast on.

Lykke 3.5" Multi-Color Interchangeable Circular Needle Set: These needles have a smooth finish that helps your yarn glide easily from stitch to stitch.

Pro tip: The tubular cast on tends to run a little loose, so we recommend going down a needle size just for the cast on. Once you finish the foundation rows, switch back to your regular needles for the rest of your ribbing.

How to Do a Long Tail Tubular Cast On

Before you dive in, make sure you have enough tail yarn for all your cast-on stitches, plus a little extra, just in case. It’s always better to have a bit more rather than to run short halfway through.

The tubular cast on starts just like a classic long-tail cast on. Hold your yarn in the familiar “slingshot position,” with the tail over your thumb and the working yarn over your index finger.

Set Up Stitches

1. First Stitch (Slip Knot)

Start with a slip knot on your needle.

2. Second Stitch (“Purl” Stitch)

With your yarn held in the usual slingshot position:

Bring your needle over and around the yarn on your index finger.

Scoop up the yarn around your thumb, also coming from above.

Bring your needle and yarns back to its original slingshot position, this motion creates a “purl” bump.

3. Third Stitch (“Knit” Stitch)

Staying in the slingshot:

Bring your needle over the yarn around your thumb.

Pick up the yarn on your index finger, again coming from above.

Bring your needle and hands back to the slingshot position.

4. Repeat

Keep alternating the “purl” and “knit” stitches (steps 2 & 3) until you’ve cast on all your stitches.

For the purposes of this demo we used an even number of stitches, but always end with a “purl” stitch.

5. Get Ready for Row 2:

Before moving on, make sure you’re holding both your tail and working yarn securely. When you’re ready to start the next row, always turn your needle counter-clockwise. This simple step is so important because it helps keep your last stitch from unraveling.

6. Work the Foundation Rows

These next steps use slip stitches to form the tubular edge and transition your cast on seamlessly into ribbing.

Foundation Row 1: Knit 1 through the back loop, slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front (wyif); repeat from * to end of row.

Foundation Row 2: For this row, you don’t need to work through the back loop. Simply knit 1, slip 1 purlwise wyif; repeat to end of row.

Before continuing with your ribbing, switch back to your regular needle size.

7. Start Your Ribbing

Now, simply work your 1x1 rib (k1, p1) across until your ribbing is done. You’ll see that beautiful rounded edge appear as you knit.

Why We Love It

The tubular cast on takes a little extra time, but the smooth, stretchy edge is worth it. Once you get the hang of it, it’s one of those techniques that instantly levels up your finished pieces.

Want more tips and step-by-step tricks?

We have a full library of Tip Tuesday posts waiting for you on the Quince&Co blog. Get started today!

Looking for a way to add a beautiful texture and a woven look to your next project? Meet the linen stitch. This easy slip-stitch pattern creates a dense, flat fabric that looks almost handwoven. It’s perfect for scarves, sweaters, or anytime you want structure and crip stitches. 

Today’s tip breaks down how to knit the linen stitch step by step, plus a quick trick for remembering where you left off if you put down your project for a minute or two.

Materials We Used:

For this tutorial, we used:

• Kestrel — our 100% Organic linen. Its ribbon structure makes every stitch pop, so it’s great for showing off that crisp, woven texture of the linen stitch.
  
  
• Lykke 3.5" Multi-Color Interchangeable Circular Needle Set (we used a size 8 / 5.00mm) — smooth, sturdy, and just right for knitting flat or in the round.

Let’s Knit Linen Stitch

Linen stitch is nice and simple: it’s just knits, purls, and slipped stitches. When you slip a stitch, you’re simply moving it from your left needle to your right without working it.

Stitch Pattern:

Cast On:
Start by casting on an odd number of stitches.

Row 1 (Right Side):
Slip one purlwise, *Knit 1, bring your yarn to the front of your work, slip 1 purlwise, bring yarn to the back, repeat from * to the end of the row.

Row 2 (Wrong Side):
*Purl 1, bring your yarn to the back, slip 1 purlwise, bring yarn to the front, repeat from * to the last stitch of the row, purl 1.

Keep repeating these two rows until your piece is the length you want. Then sit back and watch as the fabric starts to form. On your knit side, you’ll see that it’s a smooth and subtle texture and on the purl side, you’ll see a raised texture. But we think both sides are beautiful and unique!

A quick note: linen stitch creates a tight, sturdy fabric, so keep your tension a little on the loose side. And definitely swatch first! Many knitters are surprised at how much denser it works up than stockinette stitch!

Pro Tip: Mark Your Rows

It’s really easy to forget if you’re on a knit or purl row, especially if you set your project down mid-repeat. Save yourself the guesswork: pop a removable stitch marker at the start of your knit rows. Next time you pick it up, you’ll know exactly where you left off.

Why We Love It

Linen stitch is such a lovely way to add structure and texture. With a crisp yarn like Kestrel, your stitches look clean and polished, and the fabric stays flat with zero curling on the edges.

Give It a Try

Cast on a quick swatch, or add a linen stitch border to your next project. It’s an easy way to play with texture and see just how beautifully this stitch works up.

Looking for more texture ideas?

Explore our full collection of yarns, tools, and tutorials on our blog… your next favorite stitch is waiting!

With the arrival of summer and temperatures on the rise, it’s officially cotton yarn season. Lightweight, breathable, and beautifully textured, cotton is a favorite for warm-weather knits—and our 100% organic cotton yarns Willet and Whimbrel are perfect for the job.

Because cotton yarns are often dyed in rich, saturated shades, you may notice a little extra color in your blocking water—especially during the first wash. This is perfectly natural. It’s typically just residual dye releasing when the fibers are fully immersed for the first time.

The good news? With a few thoughtful steps, it’s easy to manage minimal color bleeding and keep your finished pieces looking crisp and fresh. Here are a few gentle, tried-and-true techniques to help you knit with confidence.

Pre-Knitting

1. Swatch and Soak First

Before beginning your project, knit a swatch and give it a soak. This quick step helps you check for any excess dye and decide whether pre-treatment is needed. It’s also a great opportunity to see how your cotton yarn softens and relaxes after blocking.

2. Try a Salt + Vinegar Soak 

For added peace of mind—especially when working with light-colored yarns or high-contrast colorwork—try a classic salt-and-vinegar soak, on your skein of yarn, to help set any remaining dye before you start stitching.

To make the soak:

• 1 cup white vinegar

• 2 tablespoons salt

• Enough warm water to fully submerge the yarn

Soak for about one hour, rinse gently in warm water, and lay flat to dry. You can repeat this process once or twice, or until the rinse water runs clear.

Post-Knitting

3. Wash Gently

When your project is complete, hand wash in cool to warm water using a gentle wool wash or pH-neutral soap. Avoid vigorous agitation, rinse thoroughly, and lay flat to dry away from direct sunlight. This helps protect your fabric, color, and stitchwork.

4. Blot—Don’t Rub

If you notice any color transfer on damp fabric, gently blot with a clean, damp cloth rather than rubbing. Rubbing can push dye deeper into the fibers, while blotting helps lift it away.

5. For Light Colors: Lemon Juice + Sunlight

If dye transfers onto very pale or white yarn, dab the area with lemon juice and place the piece in direct sunlight for a few hours. This natural brightening method works well on light colors—just avoid using it on deeper shades, as lemon juice can act as a mild bleach.

6. Baking Soda Paste for Spot Treatment

To brighten or lift small spots of color, mix baking soda with water to form a paste. Apply it to the area, let it sit for 30–60 minutes, then rinse thoroughly. This method is gentle and especially effective on light-colored cotton.

Final Tip

Some color release is a normal part of working with richly dyed natural fibers. But if you continue to see color bleeding after a few washes, please reach out—we’re here to help.

Swatch, soak, and care for your cotton projects with intention, and they’ll reward you with vibrant color that lasts for many seasons to come.

Ready to start stitching?

Explore our soft, sustainable cotton yarns—Willet and Whimbrel—and enjoy every stitch, knowing your work is made to last.

Today’s tip walks you through a simple, tidy method for joining linen and ribbon yarns that won’t unravel—and won’t leave a bulky knot behind. 

Materials Used In This Tutorial

For this tutorial, we used Kestrel, our heavy worsted weight 100% linen yarn. Its unique ribbon structure gives it incredible drape and a modern texture—perfect for warm-weather garments and accessories.

To follow along, you’ll also need:

• Sewing thread in a matching color. (We used a contrasting black thread here so you can clearly see each step. For your project, choose a thread that blends with your yarn—when in doubt, go a shade lighter rather than darker.)

• Bronze yarn snips for a clean, precise cut on your yarn and thread.

• The Daisy ceramic yarn bowl to keep things tidy.

• lykke 3.5" multi color interchangeable circular needle set

The Problem with Knots

When working with linen (or any plant-based fiber), tying a knot to join yarn usually isn’t the best option. Knots in linen tend to slip or feel bulky in your fabric, which can be uncomfortable—especially in garments that sit close to the skin. 

How to Join Linen Ribbon Yarn: A Step-by-Step Guide

1. Overlap the Working Yarn Tail with the New Yarn

When you’re nearing the end of your working yarn, stop with a few inches remaining. Lay the new yarn on top of the old, overlapping both ends so they run alongside each other for several stitches.

2. Stitch Both Yarns Together

Using your sewing thread, carefully sew the middle of your overlap together. Make sure your needle is going through both yarns. In this example, we made the stitches larger for visibility—but when working on your actual project, aim for smaller, more discreet stitches.

Sew over the join 3–4 times, or until it feels secure. You want a strong connection that won’t come apart with wear, but be careful not to overdo it—too many stitches can create bulk or even a small hole in the fabric. Aim for balance: secure, but subtle.

3. Trim Your Knots

Make sure both ends of your sewing thread are securely knotted close to the yarn. Once you're confident the join is secure, carefully trim the thread close to the knots—just enough to keep everything neat without compromising the hold.

4. Finish the Join

Because the join sits in the middle of your overlapped yarns, you’ll have tails on either side. Continue knitting while holding both yarn ends together for a few stitches to secure the join. Then, weave in any remaining tails as you normally would. After just a couple of rows—especially if you’ve used matching thread—the join will blend in beautifully with your fabric.

Why This Works

This method keeps your fabric flat and smooth and your join nearly invisible. It also avoids the risk of hard knots or fraying ends, which can be common when working with slippery or stiff yarns like linen.

Once blocked, your fabric will feel soft and cohesive. No one will even know where the join happened.

Final Tip

If you’re ever unsure about how a join will look, test it in a swatch first. Want more yarn joining options? We have a full list of alternative yarn joins in Tip Tuesday: Four Unique Ways to Join Your Yarns.

Whether you're working sleeves, socks, or mitts, here’s how to get started with this surprisingly simple and satisfying method.

What You’ll Need

• A circular needle with a long cord. 
• Your yarn and project, cast on and ready to go
  For this tutorial, we used Puffin Yarn.
• A removable stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round.
• Optional: Daisy Ceramic Yarn bowl to help keep your yarn from rolling around while you stitch.
  
  

Step 1: Cast On Your Stitches

Cast on the number of stitches your pattern calls for using your long circular needles.

Optional Tip: Cast on one extra stitch. You can use it in Step 3 to create a clean join for working in the round.

Step 2: Divide Your Stitches

Slide all the stitches to the middle of the cable. Fold the cable in half so the stitches split into two (roughly) equal groups. If you have an uneven number of stitches that’s ok. 

Step 3: Join to Work in the Round (Optional Clean Join)

Carefully slide both sets of stitches toward the needle tips. Make sure your cast-on edge isn’t twisted.

If you cast on an extra stitch:

• Slip the first stitch from the left needle to the right needle.
  
  

• Pass the second stitch on the right needle over the stitch you just moved and off the needle (the same way you would if you were binding-off).
  
  

Step 4: Rotate and Position Your Needles

Turn your work so the needle tips are pointing to the right. The working yarn should be coming from the back.

Pull the front needle (the one with stitches closest to you) so that the stitches rest on the cord, freeing the needle tip to knit.

Step 5: Knit the First Half

Place a removable stitch marker in your first stitch to mark the beginning of your rounds. Use the free needle tip to knit across the stitches on the back needle (the one farthest from you).

Watch your tension as you begin and end each half to prevent loose stitches or gaps in your knitting.

Step 6: Shift and Rotate

Once you’ve knit across the first half of your stitches, you’ll have a free needle again. Gently pull on the cable loop at the opposite end to bring the second group of stitches onto the left-hand needle.

Rotate your work so the needles are once again pointing to the right, and pull the front needle out to knit the next half of your stitches.

Step 7: Knit the Second Half

With your working yarn at the back, knit across the second group of stitches. Keep those edge stitches snug to avoid laddering.

Pro Tip: If you notice a gap forming at the folds, tug the first stitch or two of each half a bit tighter to help even things out.

Step 8: Repeat the Pattern

Knit across the front. Shift and rotate. Knit across the back. That’s the magic loop rhythm. As your project grows, the process becomes smoother and more intuitive.

Remember…

Magic loop may feel a little awkward at first—but once you find your rhythm, it quickly becomes second nature. It’s a helpful skill for everything from sleeve cuffs to baby hats, and it saves you from juggling multiple needles.

If you're casting on a larger number of stitches, always double-check that your cast-on edge isn’t twisted before joining. A few extra seconds here can save you a lot of frogging later.

Keep growing your skills with more Tip Tuesday techniques and tutorials. 

Whether you're tackling your first pair of fingerless gloves or brushing up on small-circumference knitting, here's a quick guide to help you get comfortable knitting with DPNs.

Tip Materials:

• Yarn: Plover

• Pattern: Portside Mitts by Alison Lee (free with purchase of Plover)

• Accessory: Daisy Ceramic Yarn Bowl

What Are Double-Pointed Needles?

Double-pointed needles are a set of three to five short needles, each pointed at both ends. Unlike circular needles, which connect two tips with a cable, DPNs let you knit in the round on smaller circumferences—making them perfect for socks, mitts, hats, and sleeves. Because you can add in or remove additional needles they are perfect for increases and decreases in your smaller projects. 

Double-pointed needles allow you to knit small projects seamlessly in the round.

How to Get Started:

1. Cast On Your Stitches

Cast on the required number of stitches onto one needle. Then, divide those stitches evenly across three or four needles. Use your fifth needle as the working needle.

2. Join to Work in the Round

Carefully arrange your needles into a triangle or square shape, making sure the stitches aren’t twisted. Then use your working needle to knit the first stitch from the first needle—this joins your work in the round.

3. Knit Around the Needles

Once joined, continue knitting across each needle in turn. You’ll always be holding one empty working needle and rotating through the others as you complete each round.

4. Mind the Gaps

One of the most common DPN issues is laddering—loose stitches between needles. To avoid this, gently tug the first couple of stitches on each needle as you begin a new section. Keeping an even tension will help create a smooth, consistent fabric.

5. Keep Track of Your Rounds

Because there’s no cable to indicate the start of a round, use a removable stitch marker or mark the beginning of your round with a contrasting piece of yarn. This will help you stay on track, especially in patterns like the Portside Mitts, which features ribbing.

Why We Love Plover for This Project

Plover is a minimally processed, domestically grown yarn, milled at Battenkill Fibers. A 60% alpaca, 40% wool blend, it achieves a perfect harmony of structure and softness. It knits up beautifully for accessories like mitts, thanks to its gentle texture and warm yet breathable finish.

Best of all, the Portside Mitts pattern is free with your purchase of Plover, so it’s the perfect time to dive into small-circumference knitting.

Final Note…

Double-pointed needles allow you to knit small projects seamlessly in the round. While it may take a few rounds to feel comfortable, many knitters find DPNs fast, reliable, and satisfying for detailed projects like gloves and mittens.

If your DPNs feel fiddly at first, take it slow. Practice with a simple tube or start your Portside Mitts using scrap yarn until you feel confident. Before long, you’ll be flying through your rounds.

Curious to try it out? Grab your Plover yarn and give the Portside Mitts pattern a go!

When starting a new knitting project, one of the most important decisions you’ll make is choosing the right needle size. The size you use affects not only your gauge but also the overall look, feel, and functionality of your finished project. Whether you’re following a pattern or experimenting with different textures, understanding how needle size impacts your work will help you achieve the fit and fabric you’re looking to create.

The Role of Needle Size in Knitting

Every yarn has a recommended needle and crochet hook size, which serves as a guideline for achieving a balanced fabric—one that is neither too tight nor too loose. However, depending on your personal tension and the desired outcome of your project, you may need to adjust your needle size to find your own balance.

When to Use Larger Needles

(pattern: Rectangle #2 knit with Puffin)

Using a larger needle size creates a more open, airy fabric with larger stitches. This can be ideal for:

• Draped Garments and Accessories – If you want a relaxed sweater, shawl, or scarf with a light and flowing texture, pairing your yarn with a larger needle will create a looser stitch structure with more movement.
• Lacework – Many lace patterns call for larger needles to enhance the openness of the design and emphasize delicate stitch patterns.
• Soft, Breathable Fabrics – If your project is meant to be lightweight and breathable, such as a spring or summer top, increasing your needle size slightly can help create a softer, more comfortable fabric.

When to Use Smaller Needles

(pattern: Quinn knit with Chickadee)

Smaller needles produce a tighter, more structured fabric with more defined stitches. You may want to use a smaller needle size when:

• Making Sturdy Items – If you are knitting a sock, bag strap, or other structured pieces, a smaller needle will create a dense, firm fabric that holds its shape with wear.
• Working Ribbing – Designs that include ribbing often require a slightly smaller needle for that section of your pattern. This pulls your stitches in tighter for a more insulated project edge.
• Achieving a Warmer Fabric – A tightly knit fabric will trap heat better, making it ideal for winter garments like mittens and thick sweaters.

Can You Change Needle Size to Adjust a Pattern?

It might seem like a quick fix to size up your needles for an oversized fit or size down for a more fitted piece, but this approach can lead to unpredictable results. If you try to make a sweater larger by increasing your needle size, you may end up with stretched-out stitches, oversized armholes, and an overall poor fit. Instead, consider adjusting the stitch count or following a size-inclusive pattern that offers the fit you’re looking for.

Always Swatch Before You Start

The best way to determine the right needle size for your project is to knit a gauge swatch. This small sample will help you see how the yarn behaves on different needles and whether any adjustments need to be made before you cast on the full project.

Whether you’re aiming for a crisp and structured final fabric or one that is light and airy, choosing the right tools makes all the difference.

Tools Used In This Tutorial

• Not Quite Lark
• lykke 5" multi color interchangeable circular needle set
• bronze yarn snips
• fruit salad ceramic yarn bowl

If you’ve been waiting for the perfect time to join Quince Quarterly (QQ), this is it! QQ is such a fun subscription series that delivers a new surprise knitting project 4 times a year, right to your doorstep. From yarn and an exclusive pattern to a project bag and a surprise extra goodie, your knitting hearts will burst with joy. 

For our spring 2025 QQ, we’re thrilled to announce our collaboration with the incredibly talented designer, Kirsten Joel. 

Let’s talk about Kirsten. She’s known for her clean, modern designs that are as thoughtful as they are beautiful. Her patterns strike that perfect balance between minimalism and elegance, resulting in pieces you’ll want to make and wear again and again. Kirsten, based in South Carolina, knows a thing or two about creating knitwear for mild temperatures. 

You may remember her from her recent work with Quince & Co., the Fly Away Collection, which showcased her talent for light, airy textures and stunning details.

For this spring’s QQ kit, Kirsten has designed a project that celebrates texture, contrast, and transformation—all using the perfect pairing of two fibers: Dove and Sparrow.

What Makes this Spring’s QQ Kit so Special?

The Yarns:

Meet Dove: A lace-weight blend of kid mohair and mulberry silk that adds a soft halo and subtle sheen to your stitches. It’s lightweight yet cozy, airy yet luxurious.

Meet Sparrow: Organic linen that begins crisp and structured but transforms into handkerchief softness with washing and wearing. Perfect for springtime projects that drape beautifully.

When knit together, these fibers create a fabric that’s full of contrast yet perfectly balanced. Both fibers evolve beautifully with blocking and wear, meaning your projects will only get better with time.

What’s Included in a Quince Quarterly Subscription?

You’re not only receiving the pattern and skeins of yarn required to knit the project—you also get a custom QQ cotton project tote! 

Designer-Driven Projects: Each QQ kit comes with a new pattern designed exclusively for subscribers by a talented designer like Kirsten Joel. The patterns are intentionally one-size—think shawls, scarves, hats, cowls, and other versatile accessories.

The Element of Surprise: The pattern is revealed only when your kit arrives, adding an extra layer of excitement to the experience.

While the exact contents of the bundle remain a mystery, you’ll have the option to select your preferred color theme at the time of purchase. Each quarter, the Quince team, along with the QQ designer, thoughtfully curates the specific colors within each theme. You can easily update your color theme preferences by logging into your account and selecting “Manage Subscription.”

Bonus Treats: Every kit includes a special surprise to support your QQ project. From handy tools to thoughtful extras, these little bonuses make QQ feel like a gift you give yourself.

Extra Savings: QQ subscribers will receive 15% off all orders at Quince throughout the subscription’s current quarter.

Why You Shouldn’t Miss Out on a Quince Quarterly Subscription:

Spring is all about new beginnings—so why not try something new with Quince Quarterly? This kit’s exclusive yarn pairing, designer project, and extra goodies make it a seasonal must have. 

Whether you’re an experienced knitter or just starting your journey, QQ is the perfect way to treat yourself and grow your skills. Join the community today by going to past Quince Quarterly patterns and subscribing to Quince Quarterly now!

1. Stitch Markers Are Your Best Friend

Stitch markers can transform the way you approach your projects. While they’re great for marking the beginning of a round in circular knitting, their versatility doesn’t stop there. Use them to separate pattern repeats, track stitch counts, or mark progress on longer projects. Removable markers are especially handy for counting rows in complex patterns.

Need a refresher? Check out our Five-Minute Guide to Stitch Markers.

2. Find Your Knitting Style

Your knitting style shapes your experience with the craft. Whether you prefer throwing (English) or picking (Continental), there’s no “right” method—experiment with both and stick to what feels most natural for your body.

Did you know you can knit flat projects on circular needles? If straight needles feel too heavy on your wrists or if you simply love your interchangeable set, circular needles are a fantastic option. Just skip joining in the round, and you’re good to go! Ultimately, it’s all about finding what works best for you.

3. It’s OK to Frog and Start Fresh

Your knitting should bring you joy. If a project no longer feels right but you love the yarn you chose, don’t hesitate to frog (rip out) your work and start fresh. It’s not a setback—it’s progress toward creating something you truly love. Sometimes, realizing a project isn’t what you envisioned is just part of the process.

4. The Knit-Purl Connection

Here’s a game-changing realization for beginners: the wrong side of a knit stitch is a purl stitch, and the wrong side of a purl stitch is a knit stitch. This insight is especially helpful for ribbing or when switching between flat and in-the-round projects. It’s often the simplest details that lead to the biggest breakthroughs!

5. Take Breaks and Stretch

Knitting can be tough on your body, so it’s essential to build healthy habits from the start. Take breaks, stretch your hands and wrists, and pay attention to your posture. Remember, your body is your most valuable knitting tool—take care of it to ensure a lifetime of creating.

With these tips in mind, you’ll be ready to cast on your first projects and check “learn to knit” off your list in no time. Happy stitching!

This week, we’re walking you through how to turn a heel when knitting socks from the top down. While it may seem tricky at first, turning a heel becomes simple once you break it down one stitch at a time. In today’s Tip Tuesday, we’re guiding you through each step so you can tackle this essential sock-knitting technique.

What Does ‘Turning the Heel’ Mean?

Turning the heel shapes the heel of a sock so it curves naturally around the back of the foot. This is done by knitting a heel flap on half of your stitches and using short rows to create the heel’s curve. Think of it as turning a corner!

Materials We Used in This Tutorial:

• Lykke Cypra 5" copper interchangeable circular needles
• DPNs or a second pair of needles
• Stitch holder
• 3 stitch markers
• Puffin Yarn

Before You Begin:

Start by knitting your sock from the cuff down. Once you’ve reached your desired leg length, it’s time to begin the heel flap. At this point, you should have a tube with a stitch marker at the beginning of your round.

1. Knit the Heel Flap

The heel flap is worked flat using half of your stitches. This is where DPNs or a second set of needles comes in handy since you’ll be knitting flat, back and forth, for this section. The Lykke Cypra copper needle set comes with stoppers that make it easy to keep the resting stitches secure.

Helpful Tip: Set aside the center stitch marker since you’ll only be working on half the stitches for the following section. You’ll need it again later.

Heel Flap Pattern Example:

• Set-Up Row 1: Knit half of your stitches, turn, and place the remaining stitches on a stitch holder.
• Set-Up Row 2: Purl across.
• Row 3: K1, sl 1, k1; repeat to the end of the row.
• Repeat Rows 2 and 3 as instructed in your pattern.

2. Start the Heel Turn

In this section, you’ll begin knitting short rows, creating the heel’s curve. Short rows are worked by knitting or purling partway across the row, then turning and leaving some stitches unworked.

Important: Follow your pattern closely—accurate row lengths ensure proper shaping.

Heel Turn Pattern Example:

• Row 1: Sl 1, k6, k2tog, k1, turn.
• Row 2: Sl 1, p3, p2tog, p1, turn.
• Row 3: Sl 1, k4, k2tog, k1, turn.
• Row 4: Sl 1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.
• Row 5: Sl 1, k6, k2tog, turn.
• Row 6: Sl 1, p5, p2tog, turn.

3. Pick Up Stitches for the Gusset

After turning the heel, pick up stitches along the edges of the heel flap and place the stitches from the holder back onto your needles. This step connects the heel to the rest of the sock, returning you to knitting in the round.

Set-Up Round Example:

• Knit across the heel flap stitches.
• Pick up and knit 8 stitches along the heel flap edge.
• Place a marker, knit the 13 instep stitches from the holder, place another marker.
• Pick up and knit 8 stitches along the opposite heel flap edge.
• Knit 3 stitches from the heel flap.

The beginning of the round is now at the center of the heel. Place a marker to indicate the new round start.

4. The Gusset

Before the heel turn, your stitch count matched your desired sock circumference. After picking up stitches, you’ll have extra stitches on your needles. The gusset section decreases this number back to the original count.

Gusset Pattern Example:

• Round 1: Knit.
• Round 2: Knit to 3 stitches before the marker, k2tog, k1; knit across the instep stitches; slip marker, k1, ssk, knit to the end of the round.
• Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until you return to your original stitch count.

Remember!

The key to turning a perfect heel is staying organized. Use stitch markers to track your progress and carefully follow the pattern instructions. Heel shaping can vary by design, but the essential technique stays the same.

With practice and patience, you’ll be turning heels like a sock-knitting pro in no time!

Next up…blocking your socks.

Let’s make 2025 your most creative knitting year yet! A little planning can make all the difference between finishing your projects and having them linger in the WIP pile. Here’s how to set yourself up for success and a yarn-filled year ahead.

Reflect & Choose Favorites

Start by looking back at your 2024 projects. Which ones brought you joy? What did you learn about your stitching habits or style? Use these insights as inspiration for what to cast on next.

Map Out Your Year

Think about what’s on your 2025 calendar. Are you making holiday or birthday gifts? Planning travel knitting? Welcoming a new baby into the family? Estimate how long each project will take—then double it, because knitting always takes a little longer than we think!

Group patterns by how long they’ll take—quick knits for busy times and bigger projects for quieter months. Consider planning a longer project for winter and saving portable ones for summer vacations. This doesn’t have to be exact, but it’ll give you a good timeline to follow.

Prep Your Projects

If you already have yarn picked for a pattern, pair them up! Print out the pattern, match it with your yarn, and store them together in a clear bag. You’ll thank yourself later when everything is ready to grab and go.

Organize your patterns, too! Add your Quince&Co patterns to your Ravelry library for easy access, or create a “Quince Pattern” label in Gmail to find your downloads without searching.

Break It Down by Techniques

Does your wishlist include a skill you’ve never tried? Break your list into projects based on techniques to build confidence and learn as you go. Need help? Let us know in the comments, and we might feature a Tip Tuesday tutorial for it!

Keep Your Tools Handy

Your tools can make or break a project. Interchangeable needle sets are a lifesaver, ensuring you always have the size you need.

• Lykke Cypra 5" copper interchangeable circular needles

• lykke 5" multi color interchangeable circular needle set

• lykke driftwood crochet hook set

Get Organized

Jot down the yardage and yarn weights for your wishlist projects. This makes shopping easier and ensures you’re prepared when it’s time to cast on. Consider using kits or bundles that include the exact yarn you need.

Celebrate Your Wins

Whether you finish one project or ten, take time to celebrate! Knitting isn’t a race—it’s about creativity, joy, and the love of making. Here’s to a 2025 full of stitches, bind offs, and many yarn-filled days to come!

Let’s make sure your yarn will continue to bring you joy year after year.

1. Caring for Your Yarn

Storage is Key: Keep your yarn in a dry place away from direct sunlight and extreme temperatures. Long-exposure to direct sunlight can fade colors. Opt for breathable bags or bins rather than plastic bags. Plastic bags can trap moisture and moisture overtime can damage the fibers. 

Storing your yarn off the floor and in enclosed containers helps reduce dust buildup, keeps it safe from pets and young children, and prevents unwanted critters from getting in.

Your Quince & Co yarns will arrive wound up in skeins. Avoid winding your yarn into balls until you’re ready to use it. Yarn stored in ball form for too long can lose its elasticity and bounce.

2. Washing Different Fibers

Check the Label: Every yarn type has its care instructions, so always consult the yarn label first.

General Washing Guidelines: Hand wash wool, alpaca, and other animal fibers in cool water with a gentle detergent. Cotton and linen can often handle a gentle machine wash, but it’s safest to hand wash delicate items. 

Garments with a looser gauge or a lace should almost always be hand washed to prevent the stitches from getting snagged. If you choose to use a washing machine, consider placing the garment in a breathable, machine-safe cloth bag to provide extra protection during the wash.  

Drying Tips: Lay items flat on a clean towel to dry, reshaping them as needed. Never wring or hang wet knits to dry them. This can cause the garment to stretch and will affect its fit.

3. Storing Finished Knits

Fold, Don’t Hang: Hanging knitted garments, even when dry, can cause them to stretch and lose their shape over time. To maintain their fit and structure, it’s best to fold sweaters and other knits neatly and store them on shelves or in drawers.

Seasonal Storage: In regions with drastic weather changes, consider storing your knits in breathable linen or cotton bags to allow proper airflow during the off-season. For added protection, tuck in cedar blocks or lavender sachets to ward off unwanted pests—especially moths!

4. Protecting Against Moths

Clean Before Storing: Wash and thoroughly dry your knits before storing. Moths are attracted to dirt, sweat, and food residue. Let’s not tempt them.

Inspect & Refresh: Regularly check stored items for any signs of moth damage. This could be done once every few months depending on how you are storing your yarns and how much of it you have. If you spot holes, inspect all nearby items and treat affected areas as soon as possible to keep the problem from spreading. 

Moth Protection: Natural moth repellents like lavender sachets or cedar blocks can help keep pests away. Plus, they have the added benefit of smelling great! 

By following these yarn care tips, you’ll extend the life of your yarn and stitches, keeping them safe season after season.

This week, we’re breaking down four unique yarn joining techniques that you can use to create smooth transitions. For this tutorial, we’ll use two colors of yarn to help you clearly see each method in action but you can use these with the same colors when you are simply moving to the next skein in your project.
Let’s get started with yarn joins!

1. The Magic Knot

The magic knot is a quick, easy, and secure option that doesn't waste unnecessary yarn. 

1. Overlap the working and new yarns by 3–5 inches.
2. Tie a knot around the working yarn using the new yarn, and repeat with the working yarn around the new.
3. Pull both yarns in opposite directions to bring the knots together, and lock them in place.
4. Trim the excess ends and continue stitching.

2. Magic Knot 2!

1. Align the tail of the working yarn with the start of the new yarn.
2. Tie a pretzel knot, with both strands.
3. Pull tight and trim the ends close before continuing to stitch.

3. The Russian Join

1. Fold your working yarn over your new yarn.
2. Thread a needle with the tail of your working yarn.
3. Weave the needle back into the working yarn itself for about two inches and pull it through to close the loop that the new yarn is looped through.
4. Take your new yarn tail and repeat this process, weaving it into itself.
5. Cut the excess tails & continue stitching.

4. The Braided Join

1. Unravel about two inches of the plies from both the working and new yarn tails.
2. Split your plies in half.
3. Find the center and interlock the unraveled plies in a "V" shape.
4. Braid the three strands on each side together for about 1.5 inches.
5. Trim the excess yarn before continuing to knit or crochet.

Note: Practice Makes Perfect

Today’s the day! We’re unboxing Dove. Meet our newest yarn, available in 18 inspirational colors. If you’ve been dreaming of airy textures and a luxurious halo, this unique yarn is about to become your next favorite. 

Let’s introduce you to the magic of Dove so that you can learn what makes it so special.

First Impressions

Opening a box of Dove feels like unwrapping a cloud. This yarn is a delicate lace weight blend of 83% kid mohair combined with 17% mulberry silk. With Dove we’ve combined the airy wonder of mohair with the natural strength of silk to create the perfect companion yarn for your collection. The first thing you notice is its soft, feathery halo, which promises to add dimension to any project.

The color palette is a showstopper inspired by Main’s breathtaking Acadia National Park. From the hues of misty mornings to the shades of rugged cliffs and granite peaks, each skein of Dove is designed to pair beautifully with our other yarns while paying homage to the park. 

Why We Love Dove

What sets Dove apart is its versatility. It’s light as air, but don’t let that fool you—this yarn is packed with potential. Fun ways to use Dove:

• Play With Textures: Dove’s signature halo creates a dreamy, soft texture that looks ethereal when knit on its own.

• Easily Blend: Hold Dove double with another yarn to add depth and warmth. With just one strand of Mohair you can turn your DK weight yarn into a cozy worsted!

• Change Up Your Opacity: Use Dove for gauzy sections in your project—perfect for delicate shawls, light cardigans, or accent details. Or hold it double and let the halo fill in your stitches. 

How to Work with Dove

To help you get the most out of Dove, here are a few tips:

Tip Tuesday Working With Mohair

Are you ready to cast on your next project with Dove? We can’t wait to see what you create with this dreamy yarn! Let us know your project ideas in the comments and share your progress by using #quinceandco on social media for a chance to be featured.

Start exploring with Dove today!

Have you met Dove, our newest mohair yarn? We’re thrilled to introduce you to this latest addition to our yarn family! Mohair is loved for its delicate, airy halo, adding texture and warmth to any project. Whether used alone for an ethereal look, held double with another yarn for extra coziness, or paired with contrasting colors for a heathered effect, mohair’s possibilities are endless!

To set you up for success, here are five essential tips for working with this luxurious fiber:

1. Swatch First: Swatching is always a good idea, but it’s crucial with mohair! Mohair blooms beautifully after blocking, so a swatch helps you see how your stitches will settle and how fluffy the final fabric will be. You may even want to go up a needle size to achieve the airy texture mohair does best. Seeing your final fabric in a swatch can also be great motivation to finish your project!

Learn more in our Tip Tuesday: The Benefits of Swatching.

2. Choose Smooth Needles & Loose Gauge: Mohair’s fibers can cling to wooden or rougher needles, so opt for smooth, sharp needles for cleaner stitches. Working at a looser gauge will let the mohair’s natural softness and halo shine. A lighter gauge also allows the yarn’s unique bloom to come to life, adding that beautiful fuzzy texture to your project.

3. Frog Carefully: Mohair is tricky to frog since its fibers catch easily. To avoid unraveling large sections, check each row as you go and keep track of stitch counts. For long projects, consider using lifelines, which will make it easier to undo stitches safely if needed. If you do need to frog, take it slow to prevent tangles. Stitch markers with smooth edges are also helpful for staying on track with mohair.

3. Blend Mohair with Other Yarns: Mohair is magical on its own but transforms beautifully when paired with other yarns like wool or silk. Try holding it double to add a soft halo and extra warmth to your base yarn. Remember, adding mohair increases the weight of your yarn, so, for example, holding Dove with Tern turns a Fingering weight into a DK.
4. Pull from the Outside: When working with a mohair ball, always pull from the outside to prevent tangling. Center-pulling can cause mohair to catch on itself, leading to frustrating knots. Protect your peace (and your yarn stash!) by pulling from the outside.

Whether you’re using it to monogram your sweaters or to create illustrations in thread, this simple method offers so much depth to your projects once you get the hang of it. We can’t wait to see what you will create once you’ve added this technique to your toolbox. 

Here’s how to create a clean and even split stitch:

What you’ll need to get started:

• An embroidery needle. 
• Embroidery floss (you can double up a few strands to play with texture once you get comfortable with the technique).
• Lastly, you’ll need to pick a project that you want to add your embroidery on top of. 

• 100% cotton DMC embroidery floss.
• An embroidery needle.
• Designs for you to easily follow.
• A detailed instruction sheet, illustrations, and images including links for additional support as well as guides for specific points and techniques.

Steps for the Perfect Split Stitch

Step 1 Thread & Knot: Start by threading your needle and tying a knot at the end of your floss. 
We recommend working with a small amount of thread at a time. You will need to pull the entire length of your thread through every stitch so keep your thread shorter than the length of your arm outstretched. 

Step 2 Anchor Your First Stitch: Pull the needle up from the back of the fabric to the front at your starting point. Pull until your knot catches on the back of your work. 

Step 3 Make Your First Stitch: Make a short loop (this is now your first stitch), by pushing the needle back through the fabric at the same point where you pulled it through in step 2 and do not tighten the loop all the way.

Step 4 Split the Stitch: Advance forward in the direction you want your design to go and bring your needle up from the back through the middle of your previous stitch loop. This splits your stitch.
 

Step 5 Continue Stitching: The act of step 4 is also the beginning of the next stitch. You’ve pulled your needle up from the back so next you continue with steps 3 & 4 until you’ve finished your design. 

Each time, you’ll come up through the center of the previous stitch, “splitting it” as you go.

Step 6 Lock The Stitch: When you’re ready to stop, bring your needle down at the top of the stitch this time to lock it in place before knotting your thread on the backside of your project. 

Notes for a Smooth Split Stitch

Mind Your Tension: Just as you would with knitting or while stitching the duplicate stitch, keeping an even tension is the key to a polished final result. Keep an even, gentle pull on your thread so the stitches are uniform without puckering. 

Also, pay attention to how long or short you are making your stitches. You can play around with this to create fun designs but if the intention is to create a straight line then your stitch length should be the same for every stitch. 

Experiment with Ply: Play with the number of strands you use to control the thickness of the line you’re creating—fewer strands create delicate lines, while more strands give a fuller look.

With a little practice, the split stitch will become your new favorite way of giving your knits a personal touch. Happy stitching!

This Socktober, let’s settle an age-old sock-knitting debate: Toe Up vs. Cuff Down! Each method has its unique perks, and finding the one that fits your style can boost your knitting confidence and help you choose your next sock project with ease.

Socks Made Simple: Knitting Direction

Socks can be worked in two directions—starting at the toe and working up, or beginning at the cuff and knitting down to the toe. While both methods have their pros and cons, many knitters start to favor one as they grow more comfortable with sock knitting. 

Today we’re breaking down each method so you can choose the one that speaks to you!

Cuff Down: The Traditional Route

If you enjoy the comfort of familiar techniques, the Cuff Down method could be your best bet. Here’s what you need to know:

Pros:

• This method uses cast-ons you’re probably familiar with, making it beginner-friendly.
• Because this method is so common there are many patterns that use this technique. These patterns range in style and skill level so you won’t have to look far to find a pattern you’ll want to cast on.

Things To Note:

• When knitting from the cuff down, you’ll end with a seam at the toe. Although methods like the three-needle bind-off are simple, they can leave a noticeable seam. For a smoother finish that reduces irritation, try the Kitchener Stitch—it takes a bit of practice, but the polished look is worth it!

• Yarn management is key with this method; you’ll need to make sure you have enough yarn left after your cuff to complete the foot section of your sock. Few things are more frustrating than reaching the toe only to realize you’ve used up too much yarn on the cuff, forcing you to frog the whole sock and begin again!
• It’s important to make sure that you’re cast-on method is allowing for stretch in your cuff. If you’re using the long tail cast on method make sure you are minding your tension and leaving enough slack in your stitches to make your cuff comfortable. 

Toe Up: The Modern Approach

Toe Up offers flexibility and customization, making it ideal for adventurous knitters. A couple tips to keep in mind:

Pros:

• Starting at the toe allows you to try on your sock as you knit, making it easy to adjust the fit. One of the trickiest aspects of sock knitting is nailing the perfect foot length and width, but with toe-up socks, you can check the fit at any time. This means you won’t have to frog much if you need to alter the size or switch up colors midway through your project.

• This method helps maximize yarn usage! if you’re running low, you can simply adjust the cuff length or add extra rows if you have more yarn than expected. Once you get past the desired foot length you really can choose your own adventure.

• The biggest perk for most knitters is that this method gets you out of grafting, seaming, and picking up stitches for your heel. Once you make it past your cast on, it's pretty much smooth sailing to your cuff. 

Things To Note:

• Toe Up knitting requires a more advanced cast-on, like Magic Loop or Judy’s Magic Cast-On, to get you started. These can be tricky at first but are so worth it because they create a seamless toe!

• You’ll need a stretchy bind-off for the cuff, as a tight bind-off could make your socks uncomfortable around your calf or ankle.

Which to Choose?

Actually, that's a bit of a trick question—because the best method is the one that works best for YOU! At Quince&Co, we try to specify whether a pattern is cuff-down or toe-up in the description so you know what to expect right from the start. But you really can’t go wrong with either technique. 

We’ve curated a range of sock patterns for all skill levels and techniques, so why not explore both approaches this Socktober?

Get Started With These Patterns:

Toe Up Inspiration:

• Cozy Up Socks

• Staccato

• Legato

Cuff Down Favorites:

• Forzato

• Vibrato

• Schermerhorn

Let us know in the comments whether you’re Team Toe Up or Team Cuff Down! Then explore our other Tip Tuesday posts for more tutorials today.

Recommended Tools:

• Starling
• Circular needles
• Or birch double pointed knitting needles
• Sock blockers

Judy’s Magic Cast On - Step-by-Step

1. Prepare Your Needles: Hold your two needles together parallel to each other, with the points facing to the left.

1. Set Up Your Yarn: Pick up your yarn as if you are about to do a long tail cast on. Your working yarn should go over your index finger and your tail placed over your thumb. Use the rest of your fingers to hold the ends of this loop in place. 

Create a twisted loop on your top needle. This acts as the first stitch.
Note: you can use a slip knot if you’d prefer but a slip knot will leave a bump from the knot on your toe. 

1. Wrap the Bottom Needle: Bring the working yarn (from your index finger) in between the two needles and then over the top of the bottom needle. This forms the first stitch on the bottom needle. -Total 2 stitches.

1. Wrap the Top Needle: Next, bring the tail yarn (from your thumb) in between the two needles and then over the top of the top needle, forming the second stitch on the top needle. -Total 3 stitches.

1. Repeat: Repeat steps 3 & 4, until you have the desired number of stitches on both needles.

Your final stitch should be made on your bottom needle.
When you are done you should have an even number of stitches split between your needles. 

1. Arrange the Needles to Knit in the Round: Turn your needles around counter clockwise. This adds a twist to your last stitch to hold it in place. 

1. Start Knitting In The Round: Now you’re ready to begin knitting! The stitches that are now on your top needle will appear twisted. Knit these stitches through the back loop.

1. Continue Knitting in the Round: Once you get past the first half of your stitches, knit the rest of your stitches through the front loop. 

Continue knitting, adding increases for your sock as the pattern recommends until you have completed the toe section of your sock.

Final Touch: Blocking

For that perfect, polished fit, don’t skip blocking. It’ll help shape your socks and ensure they look their best. 

Ready to learn more? Check out our 5-Minute Guide to Sock Blocking and give your handmade socks the finishing touch they deserve.

Give Judy’s Magic Cast On a try this Socktober, with our Abbey Road Socks by Ann Budd and enjoy knitting toe-up socks that fit like a dream!

Happy spooky season! This week, we’re featuring an easy, Halloween-themed project that not only adds a touch of festive fun to your phone but also teaches you three valuable knitting techniques. 

Meet the Spooky iPhone Sweaters by Pam Allen—this trio of patterns can be made in three different ways, allowing you to experiment and learn new skills that you’ll use in future projects. 
Today we’re going to focus on the provisional cast on, three needle bind off, & i-cords.

Tools Used In This Tip:

• Chickadee by Quince & Co (in the colors Sedum & Malbec)
• A small amount of extra yarn - For this project we used Not Quite Lark (in the color Birds Egg)

• One pair circular needles
• Two double pointed needles (dpns)
• Crochet hook
• Stitch markers
• Tapestry needles

1. Provisional Cast On

A provisional cast on is perfect for projects where you might want to add rows or graft stitches at the end of your work. This technique sets you up to knit in both directions and leaves live stitches that are easy to pick up. For the spooky phone covers, the provisional cast on allows you to seam the bottom of your case closed.

• Begin by making a slip knot, leaving a 3-4" tail, and place it on your crochet hook.

• Hold your crochet hook in your right hand and your needle in your left, along with the yarn tail.
• Cross your hook over the top of your needle.

• Wrap the yarn around both your hook and needle, moving counterclockwise from back to front.

• With your hook, pull the yarn through the slip knot. You now have one stitch on your needle and one loop on your hook.
• Re-cross your hook over your needle and wrap the yarn around the hook and needle again in the same direction as before.
• Pull the yarn through the new loop on your hook, creating another stitch on your needle. Repeat this process until you reach the desired number of stitches.

• Finally, pull the last loop on your hook to enlarge it, then cut the yarn, leaving a long tail. 

• You’re now ready to start stitching into the cast on row with your working yarn.

2. Three-Needle Bind Off

• Turn your project inside out. 

• With the right sides together, hold the needles parallel in your left hand. Make sure that you have an even number of stitches on your front and back needles.

• With a third needle in your right hand, knit the first stitch of front and back needles together as one.

• Knit the next stitch from each needle together (two stitches are now on the right hand needle). 

• Lift the first stitch over the second stitch and off the right hand needle to bind off one stitch.

• Repeat this process until all stitches are bound off.

3. Optional I-Cord Loop

Our final technique of the week will help you add a convenient loop to your phone cover. Let’s make an i-cord! 

This quick and easy technique is versatile enough for countless projects, from hanging loops on phone cases to drawstrings and ties on hats.

Using your double pointed needles, cast on two stitches (or required number for project).

Row 1: Knit. Do not turn your work. Slide sts to right end of right hand needle, ready to knit another row.
Repeat Row 1 until i-cord is the desired length. Bind Off
Continue learning with more i-cord tips.

Now it’s time to put these handy tips to work in the Spooky iPhone Sweaters. Get stitching now and you’ll have the perfect accessory ready just in time for Halloween!

Let’s kick off Socktober with a technique to perfect your toe seams. Meet the kitchener stitch! 

Today, we'll guide you through the steps to achieve an almost invisible seam. It’s particularly ideal for sock toes, where comfort is key or any project where you want a smooth finish.

Tools Used In This Guide:

• Kitchener Stitch Pin
• Starling

Set-Up: Get Ready to Seam

Start with your needles parallel, each holding the same number of stitches.

Thread your working yarn through a large-eye needle, leaving a tail 3-4 times the width of your project. 

For clarity in this demo, we’ll use a contrasting color yarn so that you can see the tutorial. But when this is done with your working yarn the seam will blend in. 

Kitchener Stitch in Action:

Set-Up Step 1: Insert your needle through the first stitch on the front needle as if to purl, and leave the stitch on the needle.

Set-Up Step 2: Insert your needle through the first stitch on the back needle as if to knit, and leave the stitch on the needle.

Step 1: Insert your needle through the first stitch on the front needle as if to knit. Take the stitch off of your needle.

Step 2: Insert your needle through the next stitch on the front needle as if to purl. Leave the stitch on the needle.

Step 3: Insert your needle through the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl. Take the stitch off the needle.

Step 4: Insert your needle through the next stitch on the back needle as if to knit. Leave the stitch on the needle.

Take a moment every few stitches to adjust the tension of the seam. Be careful not to pull the working yarn too tightly, which could make it disappear, or too loosely.

Your goal is to match the size of the surrounding stitches for a smooth, even finish.

Repeat Steps 1-4 until all stitches are bound off.
To help you remember, try repeating the following words as you stitch: 

Happy knitting! For more tips and tutorials, explore our other Tip Tuesday posts.

Today’s Tip Tuesday is all about shifting your mindset and embracing those mess-ups. We’ll teach you how to fix common knitting errors, and why it’s perfectly okay to unravel and start fresh when necessary.

Fixing Mistakes

Dropped stitches? Miscounted rows? Don’t panic! Mistakes happen to all of us, but the good news is that most of them are fixable. Here are a few quick ways to troubleshoot and correct your knitting errors:

• Drop Stitches… On Purpose: Spot a mistake but it’s only affecting a stitch or two? No need to undo rows and rows of your hard work! Identify the problem stitch, mark it with a stitch marker, drop the stitches above it, and adjust the issue. Once you’ve sorted it out, just pick those stitches back up using a crochet hook, and you’re good to go! 

Further reading: Fixing dropped stitches.

• Duplicate Stitch Fix: If you’ve accidentally knit the wrong stitch or need to cover up a mistake, the duplicate stitch technique can be a lifesaver. It allows you to go back and “duplicate” the correct stitch over the mistake without having to rip out any of your work. 

The best thing about the duplicate stitch is that it’s practically invisible once complete. However, using a contrsting yarn color can be a fun way to turn your mistake into a design element. Rather than hiding it, let it evolve into an embroidery pattern.

• Don’t Be Afraid to Unravel: Sometimes the best way forward is to take a step back. Frogging—unraveling your project—can be surprisingly freeing. 

Instead of focusing on the time spent on a project you aren’t happy with, think of it as an opportunity to turn that yarn into something new and exciting. Letting go of an unfinished object (UFO) doesn’t just clear space in your project bag—it opens the door to transform that yarn into future creations that truly spark joy!

Simply wash your yarn to remove the crimp, take a deep breath and begin again!

Note: Ever wondered why it’s called frogging? It's because you "rip it, rip it, rip it" out. 

Embracing Mistakes

Some knitters believe that the beauty in handmade items are the imperfections and the ability to see the hand in the fabric. There’s even a knitting legend that says that a piece of your soul gets woven into your work, and leaving in your mistakes acting as a gateway for your spirit to escape.

A great example of embracing imperfections comes from the Navajo weaving tradition. The Navajo incorporate what’s known as a "spirit line" or “spirit pathway” into their textiles—an intentional break in the design that allows the weaver to separate themselves from the work. This small imperfection holds deep cultural meaning and demonstrates that mistakes aren’t flaws—they’re part of the story you’re telling with your craft.

In knitting, as long as the mistake doesn’t affect the fit or drive you crazy, ask yourself: is it really the worst thing to leave it in? Sometimes, a small misstep adds a unique charm that makes your work truly one-of-a-kind.

Finding Freedom in Messing Up

Knitting teaches us patience, perseverance, and even how to accept imperfection. Life, like knitting, doesn’t always go according to plan. As long as your mistake isn’t fundamentally altering the project, it’s perfectly okay to leave it there.
Mistakes can become beautiful features of your work, adding character and personal touch. Think back to the first thing you ever stitched—those lumpy rows and missed stitches probably make you smile now as you realize just how much you've grown as a maker. 

Don’t sweat the small stuff! Your knitting, like life, is a journey, and the mistakes you make along the way are simply part of your story.

So the next time you drop a stitch or knit a row too many remind yourself that mistakes are part of the process. Whether you choose to fix, unravel, or embrace the imperfection, knitting is all about finding joy in the making.

Happy knitting! And remember, there’s beauty and a lesson in every mess-up.
For more tips and tutorials, explore our other Tip Tuesday posts.

Welcome to this week’s Tip Tuesday! This week we’re opening up our tips to the world of CROCHET! If you’re diving into our Periwinkle Crochet Pattern, this guide will help you along the way. 

Whether you’re a seasoned crocheter or just starting out, understanding a few essential steps can make all the difference. Let’s take a closer look at the key stitches, techniques, and tips you’ll need to bring this pattern to life.

And let us know in the comments below which crochet tips you would like to see next!

1. Common Crochet Terms 

• ch:  chain -  Yarn over (yo) and pull through the loop on your hook. Remember, the loop on the hook is never included in the chain count.
• sc: single crochet - Insert your hook into the indicated stitch or space (sp), yo, pull up a loop, yo again, and pull through both loops on your hook.
• sk: skip - Simply skip the next stitch or space in your pattern.
• sp: space - This refers to the open space between stitches. This term is often seen in lace or in textured stitches.
• st(s): stitch(es)

Keep this cheat sheet handy as you start stitching!

2. How to Read a Crochet Chart

If you’re more of a visual learner, the Periwinkle Pattern includes a crochet chart to guide you through the process. Reading a crochet chart might seem daunting at first, but once you understand the basics, it becomes a helpful tool.
Crochet charts and knitting charts have a similar layouts. Both include a “key” which breaks down the symbols, colors, and terms used in the chart. The key should be the first place you look when you’re getting started with the chart.

Symbols Represent Stitches: Each symbol in the chart represents a specific crochet stitch. For example, a small oval shape usually represents a chain (ch), and a cross or “X” represents a single crochet (sc).
Chart Layout: In a knitting chart, the symbols typically can be found in a grid of boxes. However, because crochet can go in so many directions, these symbols are typically laid out on a blank page in a crochet chart. But don’t worry, although there is no grid, the direction of stitching & reading your chart  is clearly laid out.
Direction of Reading: If you’re working in rows, you’ll read the chart from right to left on the odd-numbered rows (1, 3, 5, etc.) and from left to right on the even-numbered rows (2, 4, 6, etc.). If you’re working in the round, you’ll read the chart in a circular motion, from the center outwards, unless indicated otherwise..
Start at the Bottom: Most crochet charts are built from the bottom up. The row numbered “1” at the base of the chart corresponds to the first row of your crochet work.

3. How to Make the Spider Stitch

• Periwinkle Pattern
• Puffin Yarn
• Crochet Hook
• Fruit Salad Ceramic Yarn Bowl
• Bronze Yarn Snips

Let’s get stitching!

• Step 1: Start with a foundation chain of an even number.

• Step 2: Insert your hook into the second chain from the hook and, pulling up a loop (two loops on your hook), yo, and pull through both loops (this is called a single crochet).

• Step 3: Chain 1.
• Step 4: Insert your hook into the same foundation chain as the first stitch and make a single crochet.
• Step 5: Skip the next stitch.
• Step 6: Repeat steps 2-5 across the row.

This stitch creates a lovely, textured pattern that’s easy to memorize once you get into the rhythm. But if you’re more of a visual learner and you’d like to see it stitched up we have a tutorial in our Instagram Reels. 

Whether you’re learning the spider stitch for the first time or just getting comfortable with crochet charts, the key to stitching success is practice and patience. 

Enjoy the process, remember crochet can always be frogged and started again, and don’t be afraid to take it slow as you familiarize yourself with these new techniques.

Stay tuned for more knitting AND CROCHET tips next week, and happy stitching!

Achieving perfect tension is the key to smooth, even knitting. Whether your stitches are too tight or too loose, inconsistent tension can quickly take the shine off your project. Improving your tension not only elevates your knitting but makes your finished pieces look polished and professional.

Just like Goldilocks, every knitter is a bit different in how they hold their needles and yarn. It’s all about finding what works best for you! Below are five easy-to-apply tips to help you achieve the perfect tension.

1. Experiment with Needle Swaps

Did you know your tension can change depending on whether you're knitting or purling?  If you find that your knit stitches are tighter than your purl stitches when working flat, there’s an easy fix! 

When using an interchangeable needle set, try swapping the needle on your left hand (used for purling) for a slightly smaller size. This will help balance the looser tension of your purl stitches with the tighter tension of your knit stitches.

This trick is particularly helpful for knitters who naturally knit on the tight side. By adjusting the needle size for just one side of your work, you can achieve a more even tension without making drastic changes to your knitting style.

2. Be Consistent with Yarn Wrapping

Consistency is the name of the game when it comes to tension. Whether you knit using the English or Continental style, how you wrap your yarn matters.

If your stitches are still uneven despite using the same technique, try experimenting with how the yarn flows through your fingers. Wrapping the yarn around your pinky and guiding it over your index finger can help regulate tension.

Pro tip: Once you find a wrapping method that works, stick with it for the duration of your project. This will help maintain even tension from start to finish!

3. Tidy Up Those Edges

Messy edges can distract from an otherwise beautiful piece, like a scarf or shawl. Some patterns include helpful techniques, like slipping stitches at the beginning of each row, to create clean, firm edges.

Slipping the first stitch of each row as if to purl is a great way to tighten the edges and avoid the dreaded “floppy edge” look. Clean, crisp sides give your project that professional touch!

4. Choose the Right Needles for the Job

Different fibers require different needle materials. Using the right pair can help manage your tension before you even start knitting.

For slick, drapey yarns like Kestrel, opt for a birchwood needle that provides grip and control, preventing slipping. On the other hand, more structured fibers like Puffin work best with copper needles that allow smooth, snag-free knitting. This keeps you from tugging and readjusting, ensuring your stitches flow effortlessly.

Matching your yarn to the correct needle material can make all the difference in your knitting experience.

Pro Tip: Another way you can set your project up for success before you make your first stitch is by experimenting with the way you are winding your skeins. Some yarns perform better when they are hand wound into a ball rather than a cake. This prevents the yarn from getting tangled or snagged. 

5. Practice, Practice, Practice!

Finally, the simplest but most important tip—practice! Tension issues are often resolved by knitting regularly.

Start with small projects like the Kestrel Scrunchie or iPhone Sweater to fine-tune your tension without the stress of a big project. Gradually work your way up to slightly larger patterns like the Seasons Hat. This practice allows you to adjust your tension while creating functional pieces, instead of knitting swatches over and over again. 

Perfecting your tension takes time and experimentation, but with these simple techniques, you’ll see a marked improvement in no time. By keeping your stitches consistent and your edges tidy, your projects will have that smooth, professional finish every knitter strives for.

Happy knitting, and check back next week for more tips!

Colorwork can transform traditional garment shapes into works of art. Whether you're new to colorwork or looking to refine your skills, this guide will help you navigate the essentials of reading charts, managing your tension, and fixing common mistakes. Let’s jump into the world of knitted colorwork so that you can begin stitching stunning patterns with ease.

How to Read a Colorwork Chart

Reading a colorwork chart is the first step to tackling this technique. Here’s how to ensure you’re on the right track:

Understanding Chart Direction: Remember that colorwork charts are always showing you the right side of your work. 
If you’re knitting in the round, read your chart from right to left for every row. If you’re working flat, read from right to left on right side rows (RS) and from left to right on wrong side rows (WS).

Pay Attention to Row Numbers: The numbers on the side of the chart correspond to the rows of your knitting. Typically, row 1 is at the bottom of the chart, so work your way up as you progress through the pattern.

Check the Chart Key: The chart key is your essential guide to understanding the techniques, symbols, and color choices in your chart. Always double-check this before you start knitting to avoid any confusion.

Essential Colorwork Terms & Abbreviations

Before you start, familiarize yourself with these common colorwork terms:
Floats: The strands of yarn that run along the back of your work when that yarn is not in use.
MC: Main Color.
CC: Contrasting Color.

Adding a New Color

Managing Tension in Colorwork

Tension is crucial in colorwork knitting, as it can make or break the appearance of your finished project. You don’t want to pull too tight and bunch up your knitting. But you also don’t want to leave it too loose. The tension of your fabric should appear just as it would if it had been knit in a single color. 

Check Your Floats: Floats that are too tight will pucker your fabric, while those that are too loose can create gaps. To avoid this, spread your stitches out on your needle every few stitches to ensure that your floats are just right.

Twisting Yarns: When carrying your yarn over several stitches, twist the working yarn with the unused yarn every 3-5 stitches to secure the float. This helps maintain even tension and keeps your fabric smooth.

Fixing Mistakes

Mistakes happen, but you don’t have to unravel your entire project to fix them:

Use a Duplicate Stitch: If you realize you’ve used the wrong color in a stitch or two, you can fix it with a duplicate stitch instead of frogging your work. This method allows you to correct individual stitches without disturbing the rest of your knitting.

Knitted colorwork can seem intimidating at first, but with a solid understanding of charts, tension, and techniques for fixing mistakes, you’ll be creating beautiful, colorful patterns in no time. 

Remember to take it one step at a time and swatch, swatch, swatch! Don’t be afraid to practice on smaller projects before diving into something larger. 

Want more colorwork techniques? Learn how-to knit mosaic colorwork next! 

Here are some tools that made this demo a breeze…

• Yarn Bowls: Keeping your yarns organized during colorwork projects is essential! These Rise & Shine for Twig & Horn, Daisy bowls are both functional and beautiful.
• Needles: Using the right needles for your yarn will prevent your tension from slipping and your yarns from catching. For this swatch we used LYKKE.
• Pattern: Vallo
• Yarn: Phoebe

Congratulations, you’ve bound off a pair of socks! Before you start wearing them out and about there is one final step you need to take to give your socks the perfect fit. But because of their unique shape and small size, attempting to block socks can be a tricky process.

In this quick guide, we'll walk you through the easy steps to begin blocking your socks like a pro, ensuring they look and feel their best. Plus, we’ll introduce you to two must-have tools that will make stitching up your socks a breeze.

Why Blocking Matters

Blocking isn’t just about making your socks look neat—it’s about helping them retain their shape and fit. 

A blocked sock will not only look better but will also feel more comfortable to wear. And with the right tools, like the Sock Sizing Ruler and Argyle Sock Blockers the process is quick, easy, and effective. 

The Blocking Challenge 

The Solution: Tools & Process

1. Use a Sock Ruler Mid-Project

Before you even reach the blocking stage, it’s crucial to measure your sock’s depth correctly as you knit. 
It’s important to remember, some fibers expand and others can shrink in the blocking process. Making sure that you are matching the correct gauge for your project is especially important with sock knitting. 
Measuring your project as you stitch ensures a perfect fit, preventing any surprises once your sock is off the needles. We recommend the Sock Sizing Ruler. This handy tool allows you to measure your sock’s depth accurately while you’re still working on it, helping you achieve the ideal length and fit.

2. The Blocking Process

Once your socks are off the needles and you’re ready to block, follow these simple steps:

• Soak: Begin by soaking your socks in lukewarm water with a gentle wool wash. Make sure that the one you use works well with your selected fiber. Allow your socks to soak thoroughly for about 30 minutes, ensuring the fibers are fully saturated.

• Pat Dry: After soaking, gently press out excess water. Be careful not to wring or twist the socks, as this can distort the shape. Instead, lay them flat on a clean towel and roll them up to absorb the remaining moisture. 

• Place on Sock Blockers: Next, place your damp socks on a pair of Argyle Sock Blockers. Pick a pair of  blockers that match your typical sock size or grab all three sizes so that you’re ready for the gifting season. 

The blockers help your socks retain their shape while drying and give them a professional finish that looks store-bought. They are also designed with a hole at the top which makes hang drying even easier. 

3. Let Them Dry

Once your socks are securely on the blockers, allow them to dry completely. This might take a few hours or overnight, depending on the humidity, fiber used, and air circulation in your drying area. 

Before removing your socks, make sure they are fully dry. Argyle Sock Blockers’ design ensures that air can circulate around the entire sock, speeding up the drying process and preventing any lingering dampness.

Want to make the project in this post? This tutorial featured the STACCATO by Jordan Prouty and uses our darling Starling, in the colors Navy & Sunrise.

Ready to Keep Learning?

Now that you're an expert at blocking socks, here are a few other tips to help you with your next Starling sock project:
The Benefits of Swatching
How-To Weave in Your Ends, Step-By Step Knitting Tutorial
Working with Starling Our New Yarn Darling!

Happy knitting, and don’t forget to tune in next week for more tips and tricks in our Tip Tuesday series!