Holidays

Around fourteen years ago as a boy I used to spend a few weeks each summer staying with both sets of grandparents in Southend-on-Sea (Essex) and Bromley (Kent) respectively. I think a lot of my interests today can be traced back to those long summer holidays – one of my grandfathers was an avid photographer and worked with the very first ICL computers while the other was a Chemistry lecturer at UCL and a skilled carpenter. Their generation grew up during the latter stages of World War II and so were full of interesting stories.

One of my fondest memories of those holidays was restoring an old clinker-built Tideway sailing boat with my grandfather in Southend. It had been rotting in their garden for decades and over the course of three or four summers we completely stripped it back to the bare wood, made repairs and got it to the point where it was seaworthy again. Most of the work was done using the traditional hand tools in my grandfathers workshop and what I learnt from his attention to detail and craftsmanship greatly inspired my interest in design.

Exams

In June 2002 I nervously waited outside my school to receive my A-Level exam results – the outcome of which would determine whether I went to university and which one. I needed at minimum ABB grades to go to Durham (my first choice) and BBC for Kent (my distant second choice). Clearly the examiners weren’t ready for my take on the “Philosophy & Ethics” paper and what I got was ABD. Ouch.

In an instant visions of having to go through clearing or retake the year flooded through my mind. I wasn’t in the mood to talk with anyone and rather rudely brushed off my anxious parents (sorry mum!). An hour later I got myself together and called up the university. I explained the situation and was told they’d get back to me. Shortly afterwards I got a call from the Director of Undergraduate Studies, Brendan Hodgson, who told me that they were still prepared to accept me. Relief.

Horror

In my second year of university I discovered scary Japanese movies and out of interest enrolled in Japanese language classes. It turns out that I am not very good at learning languages but it did give me the opportunity to make friends with some Chinese foreign students in the same class which sparked of a new interest in China. After graduation I moved to London to begin my first full-time job with dreams of travelling to Asia one day in the back of my mind.

In January 2007 my dreams came true when my company sent me to Beijing for three months to work on a project there. It was an amazing experience and one which left me wanting more. A year and a bit after returning to London I quit my job and with a lot of searching and a little luck found a new one in Shenzhen. The location wasn’t ideal but it was the perfect way to get a foot in the door of this amazing country undergoing such rapid transformation.

Present

Through these events and many more I find myself working in China in the IT outsourcing industry as a project manager / designer of sorts. In the context of these stories it feels a bit unreal and I am pleased to be on a less well trodden path but deep down I long to be doing something a bit more creative and perhaps in a different industry altogether.

Last June I visited Jeonju, in South Korea, and immediately fell in love with the beautiful Hanok Village and the superb craftsmanship of the traditional buildings there. As crazy as it might sound I would love to do an internship with a local carpenter or take a course to learn about how Hanok’s are built and do something physical for a change. This maybe a little far-fetched considering my limited language skills (I studied Korean for a year and only know the basics) but not necessarily outside the realm of possibility – If you happen to know of anyone with connections to this field I’d love to hear from you!

“Never let your memories be greater than your dreams.”

The quote above is one of the most important things I try to keep in mind to motivate myself. Letting ourselves get too comfortable in life is a sure way to waste away our precious days on this earth and if that’s not enough to scare you into action then I’m not sure what is!

If you have any dreams or stories you’d like to share feel free to leave a comment below – perhaps another good way to hold yourself accountable

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In the evening several million Korean fans poured out onto the streets to watch the games on outdoor tv screens. I headed to Samseong Station (COEX Mall) to join them and was greeted by a sea of red shirts in a jubilant mood. It was clear that some had been camping out for hours and reserved their spot on the pavement already.

Instead of staying in one place we decided to wander around and soak up the atmosphere. South Korea were playing Argentina and from the outset it was clear they had their work cut out. Unfortunately South Korea were annihilated 4:1 but you can bet the crowd went crazy when they got that single goal. I managed to capture some of it on the video below (sorry for the poor quality).

Early on in the game I walked through nearby Bongeun-sa temple which was almost deserted but acted as an incredible echo chamber for the roar of the crowds nearby – almost a religious experience in itself!

The most amazing part of the whole event came at the end; as people were preparing to leave almost everyone helped pick up litter on the street and arrange it in orderly piles for collection. Can you imagine this happening anywhere else in the world (especially after the home-team being thrashed)? Incredible.

During the match we popped into a local restaurant for some Korean BBQ and experienced another epiphany when I tasted the beef. I’ve tasted quite a lot of cow in my time but this was on another level altogether. The beautifully marbled meat simply melted away in your mouth leaving you craving for more.

My friend suggested we try intestines which I wasn’t too sure about a first but promised to have a try since they were her favourite. Even thought they don’t look hugely appetising I was pleasantly surprised by the taste which is hard to describe but not at all unpleasant. What with this and the behaviour of the football fans it was an interesting night for sure.

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The store is surrounded by towering skyscrapers dwarfing the sunken protrusion in the center. As with everything Apple the design of the outside is minimal, verging on cold. If Apple was a religion then this is it’s temple.

Ladies in short skirts beware; you’ll probably want to watch your step closely here!

Internally the store is just like all the others; large wooden tables display each product line with relaxed staff on hand to assist. A lot of people were there to enjoy the free internet but I bet a good number convert into sales.

These cute kids were attending an Apple Summer Camp where they get to learn how to edit their own movies, and presentations etc. You have to wonder if this is a soft form of consumer brainwashing but I wish they had them when I was a kid!

The store was really busy when I visited; so much in fact that they looked like they could do with some more staff. This might have been to do with the release of the wifi-enabled iPhone 3GS though. All in all a beautifully designed space but perhaps a bit generic / sterile.

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When was the last time your hotel room took up the entire floor of the building? The 63rd to be exact.

Beyond the double doors you’re greeted by an amazing open plan lounge with panoramic views out over Shanghai. Even though it was cloudy the vista below was breathtaking. The sofa alone could probably seat eight people comfortably and in its entirety the suite covers a staggering 377-square meters.

A short corridor lined with various original art pieces, including this impressive beast, takes you into the main room.

The room is centered on an enormous dining table inlaid with carvings and presided over by a massive chandelier. The style seemed to be a fusion of western and eastern influences.

To one side a seating area fit for an emperor to recline is located. Curious antiques were scattered on surfaces throughout the suite. This is one place you probably don’t want to let young children or small animals loose.

A gold and red velvet chaise lounge sits seductively in one corder commanding a view of the city below.

The master bedroom is a mix of rich textures and patterns. Apparently Putin was particularly taken with the leopard-skin pillows the last time he stayed.

I’m not sure whether you should call this a bath or a small swimming pool. I suspect the massive water shortages in southwest China this year might have something to do with this.

You think you have a nice sink? Think again. Imagine brushing your teeth in this baby! The toilet was similarly designed although I’m not sure I found the motif so attractive in that particular location.

Should you fancy penning a best-selling novel or a letter to Barack then there’s the perfect desk to do it at, complete with brushes to show off your calligraphic skills.

A dragon stands majestically on the desk – my favorite shot from the day. A Chinese friend once asked me in all seriousness whether dragons really existed!

After a busy day running the country what better place to sit and rest your weary legs with a mistress (or two)?

Is it a bomb or just an ornately shaped candle? Better ask your security detail to check.

While snapping away some minions appeared from the servants entrance. They delivered these beautiful purple flowers (anyone know what they are?).

A lady in waiting stands pensively to one side. Her composure was quite remarkable.

All good leaders/dictators should have at least one shark or piranha infested aquarium in which to dispose rogue MI6 agents. This one was outside the hotel restaurant and consisted of four interconnected plexiglas arches.

Joking aside it was a very special experience and the party in the evening was verging on legendary. While the decor is not to my taste it is opulent in the extreme and can be yours for a cool 88,888 RMB per night (£8,400). More Shanghai shenanigans soon.

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One of my favourite things to do is to take the old tram all the way along Hong Kong island from Shau Kei Wan to Sheung Wan. It’s great because you get to see many of the different districts at a leisurely pace and only costs $2 HKD.

Most buildings in Hong Kong are densely packed together so there is little natural green space on the ground. While peering out of my hostel room I noticed these small roof gardens on top of the adjacent buildings.

Contrary to popular belief when travelling I usually stay at establishments more on the budget side. This picture was taken from the window of the Yesinn Hostel in Hong Kong. If you’re looking for somewhere clean, cheap and safe this would be a good bet. The only downside is there is quite a lot of noise and light from the street below at night.

Even though their appearance isn’t very attractive often the apartments look nicer on the inside than they do from outside. It’s amazing to think how many lives are being played out behind these facades. Working as an air conditioning repair man here is a risky business!

Even in small grubby restaurants like this can sometimes surprise you with a tasty meal. At this place in Sheung Wan the milk tea was delicious. Hong Kong-style milk tea is made from evaporated (rather than condensed) milk which gives the tea a richer taste and thicker texture. The smoother or creamier the better.

On our way to Central we popped into Man Mao temple which was resplendent as ever with prayers attached to slowly burning incense coils filling the air with a pungent smoke. It’s interesting how different religions indulge the senses to provide a feeling of contemplation or whatever the mood being set.

If you want to escape the skyscrapers of Central it’s worth popping into Hong Kong Park which provides a beautifully landscaped oasis of calm with some interesting colonial era buildings. In the background are the curiously shaped Lippo Center buildings. Some think the shapes look like koala bears hugging trees. What do you think?

No visit to Hong Kong is complete without a trip to see the view from Victoria Peak. This is how it looks like during the day but I think it’s better at night. You’d have to be very well off to afford an apartment here and even more if it has a view.

Another must-do is dim sum for brunch. There are plenty of places to try it (see my reviews of Maxim’s Palace and the Jumbo) – last time I went to Luk Yu Tea House which is the oldest in the city. While the food and old world atmosphere was nice, the prices were steep for my liking.

In the restaurant you order items from the carts which the servers are carrying/pushing and then they stamp your bill in the right place. Above are some tasty egg tarts which you can find in bakeries all over the city and definitely worth a try – if they’ve just come out of the oven be careful not to burn your mouth!

To round off a day in Hong Kong it’s worth bathing in the view of Victoria Harbor from Tsim Sha Tsui (Kowloon) where you can watch the light show at 8pm each night. If you’re heading back to the island the Star Ferry runs till 11.30pm each night and is a nice alternative to the MTR.

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You may notice that you’re changing. You’re noticing different letterforms. You may feel different around them. Don’t be embarrassed; these feelings are natural. A few basics can help you through the awkward years.

There’s a plethora of information available online for budding typographers but just about the best resource I’ve found comes in the form of a free eBook from FontShop called “Meet Your Type“:

As you would expect it’s gorgeously presented and provides a concise but playful guide to the world of typefaces and how to use them which pretty much anyone with an eye for design can appreciate.

It surprising just how much more involved typesetting your design can be. Even if the extent of what you need it for is creating the odd PowerPoint presentation there’s still plenty of lessons to be learnt here.

After learning the nitty-gritty of what typography encompasses I’ve been left in awe at the amount of painstaking work that goes into creating fonts and the care and attention that designers put into using them. It’s worth considering the next time you’re looking for an alternative to Arial or Times New Roman.

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The ground-level entrance is pretty slick with the pulsating W logo on the wall and lifts which whisk you to the 6th floor foyer. As usual you are greeted by good-looking over-polite staff who are always happy to help (how they train these people to be in a constant good mood I don’t know).

W Marvelous Suite – with floor to ceiling views of Victoria Harbour and a fresh modern interior it doesn’t get much better than this. At first I found the lack of light switches a bit perplexing but it turns out that from the bedside table console you can simply select Day, Night or Dream and the lighting adjusts automatically.

The lounge area is extremely comfortable and has a 52″ LCD HDTV with 5.1 surround sound to keep you entertained if the view gets boring (it doesn’t). The sofa can easily double as a bed which is probably a blasphemous thing to say in a 5 star hotel but it was perfectly comfortable for me!

I named this view “fisherman’s prerogative” for reasons I’ll leave you to work out – not a bad view from the bathroom! It was fascinating to watch the container ships being unloaded and the ferries leaving from central piers to the outlying islands. Next to this was an invigorating “rain shower” with nozzles to clean you from just about every angle.

On the 76th floor was probably the best feature of the hotel - one of the world’s highest rooftop infinity pools. With stunning panoramic views of the city below, and the illusion of the water extending to kiss the horizon, it makes for an extremely impressive view.

A beautiful mosaic wall on one side captures the surreal art-deco aesthetic of the hotel. Amazingly both times I visited there were only a handful of people present, hard to believe considering the hotel was fully booked apparently.

I imagine quite a feat of structural engineering was required to support a 25 meter pool this high up. It would have been cooler without the glass screen but then again I doubt the hotels insurance would stretch to drunk party-goers and suicidal business men diving off the side.

We were lucky with the weather – it had been raining almost non-stop the prior week. I dread to imagine how much the apartments opposite must cost. I don’t know any other city in the world which has been built-up so densely and high.

For those looking for something a bit more steamy there was a hot jacuzzi at one end also. Shame about the obstructed view but you can’t have everything I suppose It must be a bit gruelling for workers in the opposite ICC tower.

Above is my favorite photo of the stay – imagine waking up to this view every day. I sat at the desk looking out over the water to watch the sunset that evening. Simply stunning. It was also fun to play with the automatic blackout curtains!

As the light dimmed everything took on a dramatic blue hue. Here you can see the entrance to the road tunnel which leads to Hong Kong Island. Much of the land in West Kowloon here was reclaimed from the sea.

Silence is beautiful.

“Some day son, this will all be yours” – as if surveying my kingdom below I took stock of the view.

As if by magic an early evening snack appeared from nowhere. The chocolate muffin and brownie were morishly good.

In the evening I paid the pool another visit to see how it looked at night. Pretty cool would be the answer.

With everything bathed in a deep purple you could be forgiven for imagining you’d walked onto the set of a sci-fi flick.

I especially liked the glowing fluorescent tree planters. Not a bad place the end a busy Saturday.

To stay at the W Hong Kong is to feel spoiled and privileged. It’s certainly a special experience for those who can afford it (or freeload off friends). It probably has the edge on the W Seoul and if I was a rich man it would certainly get my seal of approval

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You can reach Samcheong-dong by going out Anguk Station exit 5 then walking up the stonewall flanked walkway on the opposite side of the road. After perusing the main street I decided to walk up the hill into the residential area – looking back down it was interesting to see the configuration of the traditional houses with their small square central courtyards.

The streets up here were almost empty so it was nice to explore in the relative peace a quiet. Apparently during the Joseon Dynasty the area was famous as the dwelling site of the royal family and aristocrats. By the look of the houses you’d probably still have to be very wealthy to afford to live here.

I liked this metal door knocker motif which appears to depict one of Seoul’s ancient gateways. I wish I could have seen what was behind it…

Being high up on the hill there was an interesting contrast between old and new. In the distance you can see Namsan mountain and the N Seoul Tower.

The chaotic maze of upturned roof tiles exude a certain calm over the domestic lives being played out below. I bet this place has some interesting history considering it managed to survive the Korean war.

The next morning I went out with a friend to Garosu-gil (가로수길) where we had a sumptuous brunch at a cosy French restaurant (allegedly the chef there was trained by Gordon Ramsay). The street is renowned for its faux-European cuisine and you’re more than spoilt for choice.

If you’re a young woman who enjoys shopping and hanging out in fashionable surroundings then this is the place to come. If you’re a man you’ve probably been brought here against your will but will quietly put up with it. If you’re an oxymoronic stereotype then you’re probably confused about the whole situation.

Garosu-gil, literally meaning “tree lined street”, can be reached from exit 8 of Sinsa Station after which you walk until you reach a corner with the area’s tallest building then turn left just before it.

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After a comfortable 2.5 hour bus journey from Seoul I arrived late-morning at the nondescript Express Bus Terminal in Sokcho and immediately caught a local bus (No. 7 or 7-1) to the entrance of the National Park, 20 minutes away. The park has a variety of routes which are well-marked and a visitors center with plenty of information.

Along the hiking path I choose there were a number of temples perched on the valley sides with spectacular views of the surrounding mountains. They were reminiscent of Beomeosa Temple in Busan. From bustling urban megalopolis to zen-like tranquility, when coming from a city like Seoul, the contrast couldn’t be much bigger.

The route I choose took my up to the impressive looking Ulsanbawi (울산바위) rock formation. From here there are over 800 steps which lead you up to the summit, partially up a rather dangerous looking metal ladder.

It had taken me nearly three hours to reach this point but the effort was well worth it. The unblemished view of the lush green mountains spread out below was awe-inspiring. It would be great to be a bird around here.

A lone tree stubbornly clings to the side of the rock face. I’m sure there’s a metaphor for life in here somewhere…

It was blowing a gale while I was taking these pictures and even though I had the handrail for support it felt pretty precarious so I decided to head back down. A fall from this height would have been fatal and seeing as nobody else was around it seemed wise not to push my luck.

After 5+ hours of hard scrambling nourishment was sorely needed. Heading back into the city I had Makguksu (막국수) ice cold noodles for dinner. The buckwheat noodles are topped off with seaweed, white Baek kimchi, spicy red Mu kimchi and half and egg for delicious combination. The photo above shows you what it looks like before the ice is added.

Before heading back to Seoul the next day I had a wander along the beach which on a weekday was completely empty except for a few old ladies who were diving for seafood. For outdoor enthusiasts Sokcho is well worth a visit.

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Gangnam is always great to wander around in the evening – while the architecture isn’t anything special, the light spilling out of the shop front signs creates a mesmerizing glow and is popular with young people enjoying the many restaurants and shops along the road. Consumerism at it’s best

Julio Mexican Diner & Cafe is a short walk from Exit 7 of Gangnam Station – go straight along the main road then take a right up the hill at the Jump Milano building just before the CGV cinema (map).

The interior has bare polished concrete walls with simple furnishings and warm lighting. It was busy when we arrived but waiting five minutes on a warm evening was no problem.

Nachos with cheese, sour cream and tomato – a filling starter and almost a meal in itself.

Chicken Tacos with extra hot sauce – mouth-wateringly good. You could order them in pairs or triplets with pork, chicken or shrimp fillings and hard or soft tortilla wraps.

Sliders or mini cheese burgers made from Austrian beef – not very mexican I guess but nevertheless delicious. They have been rated as one of the best burgers in Seoul and a tasty little snack at that.

Chicken burritos with sour cream – a little ont he small side but fresh and beautifully presented.

All the food was seriously good and I have to admit that the photos here are not all from the same day – I enjoyed it so much that I went again later in the week! I only wish there was a place like this in my neck of the woods.

Before going back to the hotel I stopped off at a very stylish looking Paris Baguette bakery in the area. Having already over-indulged it was a good thing they were almost out of stock!

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