Hey Fam!

So, I’ve been away for awhile, but I’m back now! Enjoy!

ABOUT THIS Design:

Introducing the enchanting Winding Ways Shawl! Crafted with love and attention to detail, this shawl offers the perfect blend of comfort and style. Its soft, luxurious texture will keep you snug on chilly days, while the vibrant colors add a pop of personality to any outfit. 

Designed with a striking zig zag pattern, the Winding Ways Shawl brings a playful twist to traditional knitting. The interplay of lines creates a captivating visual journey that will surely turn heads and spark conversations wherever you go.

For this pattern I used Katia 100% yarn which is a DK weight 3 yarn. You can use any weight 3 yarn for this pattern as long as you check your gauge. Also, you can try this pattern out in a weight 4 for a scrumptiously oversized scarf, or work it in sport or lace weight to create more of a shawlette.

Whether you're strolling through autumnal streets or enjoying a cozy evening by the fireplace, the Winding Ways Shawl is your perfect companion. Embrace the joy of creating something truly unique and add a touch of magic to your wardrobe.

THANK YOU! to all my wonderful testers!

Kat and Laura

I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #windingwaysshawl

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

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WHAT YOU NEED:

Needles: Size 4.5mm or size needed to obtain gauge

Yarn: DK Weight 3 yarn. Sample knit in Katia Merino 100% approx 860 yards total. 388 yards C1, 278 yards C2, 194 yards C3.

Gauge: 17 st/28 rows = 4” in stockinette (not super important, gauge is after blocking, see notes)

Other: stitch markers

Finished Shawl: Width (wingspan): 82" Length (top to tip): 27" (variable. See notes.)

Model: model is 4’11”, 38” bust, 27.5” waist, 40” hips

ABBREVIATIONS:

CO: cast on. I used the long tail CO.
RS: right side
WS: wrong side
PM: place stitch marker
SM: slip marker
K: knit
P: purl
St/sts: stitch/stitches
Rep: repeat
Cont: continue
YO: yarn over
Sl1kw: slip your stitch knitwise from your left needle to the right without knitting it.
C1, C2, C3: color 1, color 2, color 3. For my shawl, my colors were C1 - maroon, C2 - mint, C3 - mustard
BO: bind off. Make sure you bind off loosely so that the ribbing on the bottom has a good stretch.

Notes:

• Gauge: Gauge is not super important for this shawl. Just be aware of your gauge vs. the stated gauge to have an idea of the size of shawl you will create. 

• Yarn Weight: If you make any adjustments to the pattern, either yarn weight or number of repeats, remember that your yardage will change. Lighter weight yarn (such as sport or fingering) will result in a smaller shawl. Heavier weight yarn (such as Aran or Worsted) will produce a larger shawl. Please keep this in mind.

• Charts: The pattern charts have a right and left side. On the RS you read the right-hand side chart first (right to left), then the left-hand side chart (right to left). On the WS, you read the left-hand side chart (left to right), then the right-hand side chart (left to right).

• Simple Stretchy Bind-off: K2 stitches, insert the left needle into the front of the two stitches you just worked, wrap the back needle and knit them together (k2tog tbl). A good video for this can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SbzeEg6XMwM

• Color Changes: If a section ends with a color, and the next section does not indicated a color change, maintain the color you are currently using.

THE PATTERN:

For the free pattern of this design please continue on this page. Please consider supporting me by purchasing the 100% ad-free PDF with all extras/charts for this pattern on my Ravelry or ETSY pages. Or consider joining my Patreon for member perks.

Set Up Row Garter tab:

With C1 CO 3 stitches
K 7 rows garter st (3st)
Turn piece 90 degrees and pick up and k 3 st along the left edge

Turn 90 degrees again and pick up and knit 3 st from your cast on edge
You should have 9 sts on you needles

Section 1:

Change colors every RS row in this pattern: C1, C2, C1, C2, C3, C2, C3, C1, C3. Do this twice.

Row 1 (RS): sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, PM, k1, PM, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw (15)
Row 2 and all even Rows in this section (WS): p1, k to last st, p1
Row 3: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, k4, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k4, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw (21)

Row 5 - 36: cont. sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, k to marker, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k to last 3 st, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw on all RS rows until Row 36. You will increase 6 sts every RS. On the WS: p1, k to last st, p1 (117 sts) 

Section 2:

Row 1 (C3): sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, *p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k5* rep * * to 5 sts before marker, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, *k5, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1*, rep * * to 3 sts before the end,  yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw (123 sts)

Row 2: p1, k4, *(p1, k1) x3, p4* rep * * to 6 sts before marker, (p1, k1) x3, SM, k1, SM, (k1, p1) x3, *p4, (k1, p1) x3* rep * * to 5 before end, k4, p1.

Row 3: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, k2, *k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k3*, rep * * to 6 sts before marker, k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2, *k3, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2*, rep * * to 5 sts before end, k2, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (129 sts)

Row 4: p1, k4, p2, *p3, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2*, rep * * to 7 sts before marker, p3, k1, p1, k2, SM, k1, SM, k2, p1, k1, p3, *p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p3* rep * * to 7 sts before end, p2, k4, p1.

Row 5: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, p1, k1, p1, k1, *k4, (p1, k1) x3* rep * * to 7 before marker, k4, p1, k1, p1, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, p1, k1, p1, k4, *(k1, p1) x3, k4* rep * * to 7 sts before end, k1, p1, k1, p1, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (135 sts)

Row 6: p1, k4, p1, k1, p2, *p3, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2*, rep * * to 8 before marker, p3, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, SM, k1, SM, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p3, *p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p3*, rep * * to 9 sts before end, p2, k1, p1, k4, p1.

Row 7: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, p1, k1, p1, k3, *k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k3*, rep * * to 8 sts before marker, k2, (p1, k1) x3, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, (k1, p1) x3, k2, *k3, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2*, rep * * to 9 sts before end, k3, p1, k1, p1, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (141 sts)

Row 8: p1, k4, p1, k1, p4, *(p1, k1) x3, p4* rep * * to 9 sts before marker, (p1, k1) x3, p2, k1, SM, k1, SM, k1, p2, (k1, p1) x3, *p4, (k1, p1) x3*, rep * * to 11 sts before end, p4, k1, p1, k4, p1.

Row 9: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, p1, k1, p1, k5, *p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k5* rep * * to 9 sts before marker, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k4, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k4, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, *k5, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1*, rep * * to 11 sts before end, k5, p1, k1, p1, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (147 sts)

Row 10: p1, k4, p1, k1, p1, k1, p4, *(p1, k1) x3, p4*, rep * * to 10 sts before marker, (p1, k1) x3, p3, k1, SM, k1, SM, k1, p3, (k1, p1) x3, *p4, (k1, p1) x3*, rep * * to 13 sts before end, p4, k1, p1, k1, p1, k4, p1.

Row 11: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, *k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k3*, rep * * to marker, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, *k3, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2*, rep * * until 3 sts before end, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (153 sts)

Row 12: p1, k4, *p3, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2*, rep * * to 1 st before marker, k1, SM, k1, SM, k1, *p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p3* rep * * to 5 sts before end, k4, p1.

Row 13: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, k2, *k4, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1*, rep * * to 1 st before marker, k1, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k1, *k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k4*, rep * * to 5 sts before end, k2, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (159 sts)

Row 14: p1, k4, p2, *p3, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2*, rep * * to 2 sts before marker, p1, k1, SM, k1, SM, k1, p1, *p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p3*, rep * * to 7 sts before end, p2, k4, p1.

Row 15: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, p1, k3, *k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k3*, rep * * to 2 sts before marker, k2, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k2, *k3, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2*, rep * * to 7 sts before end, k3, p1, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (165 sts)

Row 16: p1, k4, p4, *(p1, k1) x3, p4*, rep * * to 3 sts before marker, p1, k2, SM, k1, SM, k2, p1, *p4, (k1, p1) x3* rep * * to 9 sts before end, p4, k4, p1.

Row 17: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, p1, k5, *p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k5*, rep * * to 3 sts before marker, p1, k1, p1, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, p1, k1, p1, *k5, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1*, rep * * to 9 sts before end, k5, p1, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (171 sts)

Row 18: p1, k4, p1, k1, p4, *(p1, k1) x3, p4*, rep * * to 4 sts before marker, p1, k1, p1, k1, SM, k1, SM, k1, p1, k1, p1, *p4, (k1, p1) x3* rep * * to 11 sts before end, p4, k1, p1, k4, p1.

Row 19: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k3, *k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k3*, rep * * to 4 sts before marker, k2, p1, k1, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k1, p1, k2, *k3, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2*, rep * * to 11 sts before end, k3, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (177 sts)

Row 20: p1, k4, (p1, k1) x3, p2, *p3, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2*, rep * * to 5 sts before marker, p3, k2, SM, k1, SM, k2, p3, *p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p3*, rep * * until 13 sts before end, p2, (k1, p1) x3, k4, p1.

Row 21: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, *k4, (p1, k1) x3*, rep * * to 5 sts before marker, k4, p1, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, p1, k4, *(k1, p1) x3, k4*, rep * * to 3 sts before end, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (183 sts)

Row 22: p1, k4, *p3, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2*, rep * * to 6 sts before marker, p3, k1, p1, k1, SM, k1, SM, k1, p1, k1, p3, *p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p3*, rep * * to 5 sts before end, k4, p1.

Row 23: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, k2, *k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k3*, rep * * to 6 sts before marker, k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2, *k3, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2*, rep * * to 5 sts before end, k2, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (189 sts)

Row 24: p1, k4, p2, *(p1, k1) x3, p4*, rep * * to 7 sts before marker, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2, SM, k1, SM, k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, *p4, (k1, p1) x3*, rep * * to 7 sts before end, p2, k4, p1.

Row 25: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, k4, *p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k5*, rep * * to 7 sts before marker, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, *k5, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1*, rep * * to 7 sts before end, k4, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (195 sts)

Row 26: p1, k4, p4, *(p1, k1) x3, p4*, rep * * to 8 sts before marker, (p1, k1) x4, SM, k1, SM, (k1, p1) x4, *p4, (k1, p1) x3*, rep * * to 9 sts before end, p4, k4, p1.

Row 27: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, p1, k1, p1, k3, *k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k3*, rep * * to 8 sts before maker, k2, (p1, k1) x3, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, (k1, p1) x3, k2, *k3, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2*, rep * * to 9 sts before end, k3, p1, k1, p1, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (201 sts)

Row 28: p1, k4, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2, *p3, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2*, rep * * to 9 sts before marker, p3, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2, SM, k1, SM, k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p3, *p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p3*, rep * * to 11 sts before end, p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k4, p1.

Row 29: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, k2, (p1, k1) x3, *k4, (p1, k1) x3*, rep * * to 9 sts before marker, k4, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k4, *(k1, p1) x3, k4*, rep * * to 11 sts before end, (k1, p1) x3, k2, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (207 sts)

Row 30: p1, k4, (p1, k1) x3, p2, *p3, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2*, rep * * to 10 sts before marker, p3, (k1, p1) x3, k1, SM, k1, SM, k1, (p1, k1) x3, p3, *p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p3*, rep * * to 13 sts before end, p2, (k1, p1) x3, k4, p1.

Row 31: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, *k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k3*, rep * * to marker, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, *k3, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2*, rep * * to 3 sts before end, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (213 sts)

Row 32: p1, k4, *(p1, k1) x3, p4*, rep * * to 1 st before marker, k1, SM, k1, SM, k1, *p4, (k1, p1) x3*, rep * * to 5 sts before end, k4, p1.

Row 33: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, k to marker, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k to last 3 st, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (219 sts)

Row 34: p1, k to last st, p1. 

Section 3:

Row 1 (change to C2): sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, k to marker, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k to last 3 st, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (225 sts)

Row 2: p1, k to last st, p1.

Row 3 (change to C1): sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, k to marker, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k to last 3 st, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (231 sts)

Row 4: p1, k to last st, p1.

Row 5 (change to C3): sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, k to marker, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k to last 3 st, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (237 sts)

Row 6: p1, k to last st, p1.

Row 7 (change to C2): sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, k to marker, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k to last 3 st, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (243 sts)

Row 8: p1, k to last st, p1.

Section 4:

Row 1 - Row 30 (C2): Rep Row 3 - Row 32 from Section 2. (333 sts)

Row 31: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, k2, *p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k5*, rep * * to 1 st before marker, p1, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, p1, *k5, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1*, rep * * to 5 sts before end, k2, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (339 sts)

Row 32: p1, k4, p2, *(p1, k1) x3, p4*, rep * * to 2 sts before marker, p1, k1, SM, k1, SM, k1, p1, *p4, (k1, p1) x3*, rep to 7 sts before end, p2, k4, p1.

Row 33: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, k to marker, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k to last 3 st, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (345 sts)

Row 34: p1, k to last st, p1. 

Section 5:

Row 1 (change to C1): sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, k to marker, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k to last 3 st, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (351 sts)

Row 2: p1, k to last st, p1.

Row 3 (change to C3): sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, k to marker, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k to last 3 st, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (357 sts)

Row 4: p1, k to last st, p1.

Row 5 (change to C2): sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, k to marker, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k to last 3 st, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (363 sts)

Row 6: p1, k to last st, p1.

Row 7 (change to C1): sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, k to marker, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k to last 3 st, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (369 sts)

Row 8: p1, k to last st, p1.

Section 6:

Row 1 (C1): sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, *k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k3*, rep * * to 1 st before marker, k1, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k1, *k3, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2*, rep * * to 3 sts before end, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (375 sts)

Row 2: p1, k4, *p3, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2*, rep * * until 2 sts before marker, p1, k1, SM, k1, SM, k1, p1, *p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p3*, rep * * to 5 sts before end, k4, p1.

Row 3: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, k2, *k4, (p1, k1) x3*, rep * * to 2 sts before marker, k2, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k2, *(k1, p1) x3, k4*, rep * * to 5 sts before end, k2, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (381 sts)

Row 4: p1, k4, p2, *p3, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2*, rep * * to 3 sts before marker, p2, k1, SM, k1, SM, k1, p2, *p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p3*, rep * * to 7 sts before end, p2, k4, p1.

Row 5: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, p1 k3, *k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k3*, rep * * to 3 sts before marker, k2, p1, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, p1, k2, *k3, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2*, rep * * to 7 sts before end, k3, p1, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (387 sts)

Row 6: p1, k4, p4, *(p1, k1) x3, p4*, rep * * to 4 sts before marker, (p1, k1) x2, SM, k1, SM, (k1, p1) x2, *p4, (k1, p1) x3*, rep * * to 9 sts before end, p4, k4, p1.

Row 7: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, p1, k5, *p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k5*, rep * * to 4 sts before marker, p1, k1, p1, k1, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k1, p1, k1, p1, *k5, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1*, rep * * to 9 sts before end, k5, p1, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (393 sts)

Row 8: p1, k4, p1, k1, p4, *(p1, k1) x3, p4*, rep * * to 5 sts before marker, p1, k1, p1, k2, SM, k1, SM, k2, p1, k1, p1, *p4, (k1, p1) x3*, rep * * to 11 sts before end, p4, k1, p1, k4, p1.

Row 9: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k3, *k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k3*, rep * * to 5 sts before marker, k2, p1, k1, p1, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, p1, k1, p1, k2, *k3, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2*, rep * * to 11 sts before end, k3, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (399 sts)

Row 10: p1, k4, (p1, k1) x3, p2, *p3, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2*, rep * * to 6 sts before marker, p3, k1, p1, k1, SM, k1, SM, k1, p1, k1, p3, *p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p3*, rep * * to 13 sts before end, p2, (k1, p1) x3, k4, p1.

Row 11: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, *k4, (p1, k1) x3*, rep * * to 6 sts before marker, k4, p1, k1, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k1, p1, k4, *(k1, p1) x3, k4*, rep * * to 3 sts before end, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (405 sts)

Row 12: p1, k4, *p3, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2*, rep * to 7 sts before marker, p3, k1, p1, k2, SM, k1, SM, k2, p1, k1, p3, *p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p3*, rep * * to 5 sts before end, k4, p1.

Row 13: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, k2, *k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k3*, rep * * to 7 sts before marker, k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2, *k3, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2*, rep * * to 5 sts before end, k2, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (411 sts)

Row 14: p1, k4, p2, *(p1, k1) x3, p4*, rep * * to 8 sts before marker (p1, k1) x4, SM, k1, SM, (k1, p1) x4, *p4, (k1, p1) x3*, rep * * to 7 sts before end, p2, k4, p1.

Row 15: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, k4, *p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k5*, rep * * to 8 sts before marker, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k3, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k3, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, *k5, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1*, rep * * to 7 sts before end, k4, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (417 sts)

Row 16: p1, k4, p4, *(p1, k1) x3, p4*, rep * * to 9 sts before marker, (p1, k1) x3, p2, k1, SM, k1, SM, k1, p2, (k1, p1) x3, *p4, (k1, p1) x3*, rep * * to 9 sts before end, p4, k4, p1.

Row 17: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, p1, k1, p1, k3, *k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k3*, rep * * to 9 sts before marker, k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2, *k3, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2*, rep * * to 9 sts before end, k3, p1, k1, p1, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (423 sts)

Row 18: p1, k4, (p1, k1) x2, p2, *p3, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2*, rep * * to 10 sts before marker, p3, (k1, p1) x3, k1, SM, k1, SM, k1, (p1, k1) x3, p3, *p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p3*, rep * * to 11 sts before end, p2, (k1, p1) x2, k4, p1.

Row 19: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, k2, (p1, k1) x3, *k4, (p1, k1) x3*, rep * * to maker, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, *(k1, p1) x3, k4*, rep * * to 11 sts before end, (k1, p1) x3, k2, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (429 sts)

Row 20: p1, k4, (p1, k1) x3, p2, *p3, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2*, rep * * to 1 st before marker, k1, SM, yo, SM, k1, *p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p3*, rep * * to 13 sts before end, p2, (k1, p1) x3, k4, p1.

Row 21: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, *k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k3*, rep * * to 1 st before marker, k1, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k1, *k3, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2*, rep * * to 3 sts before end, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (435 sts)

Row 22: p1, k4, *(p1, k1) x3, p4*, rep * * to 2 sts before marker, p1, k1, SM, yo, SM, k1, p1, *p4, (k1, p1) x3*, rep * * to 5 sts before end, k4, p1.

Row 23: Row 23: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, k2, *p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k5*, rep * * to 2 sts before maker, p1, k1, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k1, p1, *k5, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1*, rep * * to 5 sts before end, k2, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (441 sts)

Row 24: p1, k4, p2, *(p1, k1) x3, p4*, rep * * to 3 sts before marker, p1, k2, SM, yo, SM, k2, p1, *p4, (k1, p1) x3*, rep * * to 7 sts before end, p2, k4, p1.

Row 25: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, p1, k3, *k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k3*, rep * * to 3 sts before marker, k2, p1, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, p1. k2, *k3, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2*, rep * * to 7 sts before end, k3, p1, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (447 sts)

Row 26: p1, k4, p1, k1, p2, *p3, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2*, rep * * to 4 sts before marker, p3, k1, SM, k1, SM, k1, p3, *p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p3*, rep * * to 9 sts before end, p2, k1, p1, k4, p1.

Row 27: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, (p1, k1) x3, *k4, (p1, k1) x3*, rep * * to 4 sts before marker, k4, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k4, *(k1, p1) x3, k4*, rep * * to 9 sts before end, (k1, p1) x3, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (453 sts)

Row 28: p1, k4, (p1, k1) x2, p2, *p3, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2*, rep * * to 5 sts before marker, p3, k2, SM, k1, SM, k2, p3, *p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p3*, rep * * to 11 sts before end, p2, (k1, p1) x2, k4, p1.

Row 29: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k3, *k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k3*, rep * * to 5 sts before marker, k2, p1, k1, p1, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, p1, k1, p1, k2, *k3, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k3*, rep * * to 11 sts before end, k3, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (459 sts)

Row 30: p1, k4, p1, k1, p1, k1, p4, *(p1, k1) x3, p4*, rep * * to 6 sts before marker, (p1, k1) x3, SM, k1, SM, (k1, p1) x3, *p4, (k1, p1) x3*, rep * * to 13 sts before end, p4, k1, p1, k1, p1, k4, p1.

Row 31: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, *p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k5*, rep * * to 6 sts before marker, (p1, k1) x3, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, (k1, p1) x3, *k5, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1*, rep * * to 3 sts before end, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (465 sts)

Row 32: p1, k4, *(p1, k1) x3, p4*, rep * * to 7 sts before marker, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2, SM, k1, SM, k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, *p4, (k1, p1) x3* rep * * to 5 sts before end, k4, p1.

Row 33: sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, k to marker, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k to last 3 st, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (471 sts)

Row 34: p1, k to last st, p1.

Section 7:

Row 1 (change to C2): sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, k to marker, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k to last 3 st, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (477 sts)

Row 2: p1, k to last st, p1.

Row 3 (change to C3): sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, k to marker, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k to last 3 st, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (483 sts)

Row 4: p1, k to last st, p1.

Row 5 (change to C1): sl1kw, k1, yo, k1, yo, k to marker, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k to last 3 st, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1kw. (489 sts)

Row 6: BO with the simple stretchy bind-off (see notes)

Happy Creating!

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Hi! I’m Rachel.

I’m a quirky world traveller, avid knitter, crochet lover, pattern maker, and all around nerd! I spend a lot of time clowning around, and I often have the goofiest smile on my face. This website is the landing place for my new patterns, random thoughts, and general craziness. I hope you enjoy my randomness and my yarnie goodness!

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Wow! Long time no see! The last couple of months have been an absolute rollar coaster, and I had to step away from some things for awhile. I’m back now, and hopefully I can start getting things back on track here at Ravin Sekai Designs! Glad you guys could bear with me!

ABOUT THIS Design:

This is the O’Fallon Cowl. O’Fallon is where I grew up, and after 20 years of moving around for most of my adult life, I have finally found my way back! So, to celebrate my long awaited homecoming, I named my first pattern of 2023 after my hometown!

The O’Fallon Cowl is a simple but interesting crochet cowl. Because there aren’t a lot of complicated stitches for you to memorize, this cowl is perfect for a traveling project or something you work on while you’re watching TV. It uses the Herringbone crochet stitch, which is a fun variation on the usual double crochet. The herringbone stitch creates such a lovely texture that takes this simple cowl to the next level.

The construction of this garment is also quite easy. This cowl is created in the round, but also incorporates turning into each row to maintain the herringbone pattern.

Also, by knowing your gauge, you can add both length and width to the cowl to make it the perfect length for you.

I hope you enjoy making this cowl as much as I enjoyed designing it!

Happy Crocheting!

THANK YOU! to all my wonderful testers!

Gabrielle, Kat, Nicole, Sarah, Toñi and Joanna

I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #ofalloncowl

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

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WHAT YOU NEED:

Hook Size: 6 mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge

Yarn: Aran/Worsted weight 4 yarn. 556 yards total.

Gauge: 11 st/8.5 rows= 4” in herringbone double crochet.

Finished Cowl Sizing: 12” wide x 60” long

Model: model is 4’11” tall

ABBREVIATIONS:

Abbreviations in US terms

Ch: chain
St/Sts: stitch
Sc: Single Crochet
Scblo: single crochet back loop only
Dc: double crochet
Hbdc: herringbone double crochet (see notes)
Sl st: slip stitch
Rep: repeat
FO: fasten off

Notes:

1. Ch2 counts as a dc st

2. We will not be working in continuous rounds. In order to get the herringbone look, we must turn our work like you would when working flat.

3. Herringbone Stitch: Yarn over as if you are going to do a normal dc, and insert your hook into the next st, yarn over, pull through the st and 1st loop on hook. Next, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, then yarn over and pull through 2 loops to finish. You can find a video for this stitch on Hopeful Honey’s youtube channel. https://youtu.be/QeOY18E3-Nc

4. Working into Starting Chain: When working into the chains, make sure you work into the back bump/bar instead of into the v of the chain. This makes it easier to pick up stitches for the ribbing later. A good video explaining it can be found here by Fiber Flux. https:// youtu.be/igwKXFP89zs

5. Length: You can make the cowl either longer (or shorter). Just use the gauge to figure out how many stitches you need to make it the length you desire.

6. Width: The cowl, as written, is 12” wide, (8” of herringbone and 2” of ribbing on either side). To make the cowl wider, simply crochet a few more rows of the herringbone.

7. Ribbing: A good tutorial for this method of adding ribbing on the end of a project can be found on Toni from TL Yarn Crafts’ Youtube channel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xsEPLeUSwmg&t=176s

8. If you make any adjustments to the pattern, such as the amount of sts or rows, remember that your yardage will change.

THE PATTERN:

For the free pattern of this design please continue on this page. Please consider supporting me by purchasing the 100% ad-free PDF with all extras/charts for this pattern on my Ravelry or ETSY pages. Or consider joining my Patreon for member perks.

Main Body:

Ch 165 sts, sl st ends together making sure not to twist it.
Round 1: ch2 (counts as 1 dc throughout), 1 hbdc in each ch around (make sure you go into the bumps and not the chain, see notes), sl st into the starting ch 2. TURN.
Round 2: ch2, hbdc around, sl st into the starting ch2. Turn.
Round 3 - Round 17: rep Round 2. (piece should be approx. 8” tall).

Top Ribbing:

ch 10
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc down ch, sl st in the next 2 sts on the main body. Turn. [9 sts]
Row 2: ch1, 9 scblo back up. Turn.
Row 3: ch1, 9 scblo back down, sl st in the next 2 sts on the main body. Turn.
Rep Rows 2 - 3 until you go all the way around. Sl st the ends of the ribbing together through the back loops. FO

Bottom Ribbing:

Reattach the yarn to the first st on the opposite side of the main body with a sl st.
ch 10
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc down ch, sl st in the next 2 sts on the main body. Turn. [9 sts]
Row 2: ch1, 9 scblo back up. Turn.
Row 3: ch1, 9 scblo back down, sl st in the next 2 sts on the main body. Turn.
Rep Rows 2 - 3 until you go all the way around. Sl st the ends of the ribbing together through the back loops. FO

Weave in ends and block if desired.

Happy Creating!

IF YOU LIKED THIS PATTERN, PLEASE SUPPORT ME ON PATREON OR BUY ME A COFFEE!

I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #ofalloncowl

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

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Hi! I’m Rachel.

I’m a quirky world traveller, avid knitter, crochet lover, pattern maker, and all around nerd! I spend a lot of time clowning around, and I often have the goofiest smile on my face. This website is the landing place for my new patterns, random thoughts, and general craziness. I hope you enjoy my randomness and my yarnie goodness!

You Might Also Like:

Heads up! My husband and I will be moving back to the US mid-December! This means there will be no pattern coming in December. I know, that’s a huge bummer, but there’s loads of patterns coming next year!

Because I wont be posting again, Happy Holidays and I hope you have a wonderful holiday season!

ABOUT THIS Design:

Shawls are a staple of any wardrobe in my humble opinion. They give you the ability to spice up an outfit, they’re perfect for when you’re all dressed up, but need that extra layer on a chilly night, or even great to grab on your way out to the movie theatre to keep yourself from freezing in the intense air conditioning! And, when you make them a tad longer, they can be worn like a scarf in the dead of winter. They truly are the most versatile clothing item.

This is Ilyssa’s Shawl. Made with DK weight 3 yarn, this beautiful lace shawl works up like a dream. The lace repeat is easy to memorize and the color combinations you can use are endless.

And, what’s also great about this shawl is that you can make it with fingering or worsted weight yarns by making a few tweaks and understanding gauge! Check out the notes for information on this.

For the sample shawl, I used Paintbox Yarns Simply DK and Baby DK. But, with the versatility of this garment, you can use a variety of yarns. Just make sure you check your gauge, and you’ll be golden!

Hope you love making the shawl. Tag your makes using #Ilyssasshawl

THANK YOU! to all my wonderful testers!

Sarah, Gabrielle, Shannon, Chantel, Teresa, and Kat

I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #ilyssasshawl

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

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WHAT YOU NEED:

Hook Size: 3.5mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge

Yarn: DK weight 3 yarn or Worsted weight 4 (see notes). Sample crocheted in Paintbox Yarns Simply DK. 1195 yards (382 g) total, [290 yrds (95g) grey, 690 yrds (228g) salmon, 215 yrds (59g) white].

Gauge: 16 st/8 rows= 4” in dc with 3.5mm hook and weight 3 yarn. 

Finished Shawl Sizing: 19” wide x 75” long

Model: model is 4’11” tall

ABBREVIATIONS:

Abbreviations in US terms
Ch: chain
St/Sts: stitch
C1, c2, c3: color 1 (grey), color 2, (salmon), color 3 (white)
Sc: single crochet
Hdc: half double crochet
Dc: double crochet
Tr: treble crochet
Csdc: chainless starting dc. See Notes.
Cstr: chainless starting tr. See Notes.
V-st: v- stitch. [dc, ch2, dc] all in the same st
Pf: Puff Stitch. YO, insert hook into st, YO, pull through just the st, YO, insert hook into same st, YO, pull through just the st, YO, insert hook into same st, YO, pull through just the st, YO,  pull through 6 loops, YO and pull through last 2 loops.
Rep: repeat
Sk: skip
FO: fasten off

Notes:

1. Ch1 does not count as a st

2. Special Stitches: For the csdc and cstr, you will do similar things. First, pull up loop on hook approx the same height as your regular dc/tr, holding elongated loop on hook with your finger twist the hook counterclockwise down towards you, wrapping the lengthened loop around your hook (should look like a yarn over) the amount of times needed for the stitch, insert hook into loop and finish stitch how you would a normal dc/tr. Here is a video to help you if this is confusing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XFK1tTRBugQ

3. Yarn: The sample is made in weight 3 yarn with a 3.5mm hook. However, you can easily use a weight 4 with a larger hook instead. Please be aware this will make a wider and longer shawl than stated above when using the number of rows and sts outlined in the directions.

4. Length: You can make the shawl either longer or shorter. To do this, just change the number of times you repeat Rows 1 - 23.

5. Width: The shawl, as written, is about 19” wide, and the lace repeat is made over 6 + 3sts. If you want to change the width, make sure you either add or subtract sts in a multiple of 6 sts.

6. If you make any adjustments to the pattern, either yarn or amount of sts, remember that your yardage will change.

THE PATTERN:

For the free pattern of this design please continue on this page. Please consider supporting me by purchasing the 100% ad-free PDF with all extras/charts for this pattern on my Ravelry or ETSY pages. Or consider joining my Patreon for member perks.

Ch 82 sts with C1

Row 1: hdc in the 2nd ch from hook, 80hdc, Turn. (81 sts)

Row 2: ch1, hdc in the first st, *ch1, sk1, 1hdc* rep * * across placing the last hdc in the last st. Turn.

Row 3: ch1, 81hdc (place 1 hdc in each hdc and 1 in each ch). Turn.

Change to C2

Row 4: csdc, 80dc. Turn.

Row 5: ch1, 2sc, *ch2, sk2, v-st, ch2, sk2, 1sc* rep * * until last st, 1sc in the final st. Turn.

Row 6: cstr, 1tr, [pf, ch2, pf, ch2, pf] all in the first v-st, *ch1, [pf, ch2, pf, ch2, pf] all in the next v-st*, rep * * across, 2tr in the last 2 sts. Turn.

Row 7: csdc, 1dc, *ch1, 1dc in the next ch2, ch1, 1dc in the next ch2, ch1, 1dc in next ch1*, rep * * across placing the last dc of the repeat into the 2nd to last tr, 1dc. Turn. 

Row 8 - Row 15: rep Row 4 - 7 twice (3 repeats total in C2)

Row 16: csdc, 80dc. Turn.

Change to C1

Row 17: ch1, 81hdc, Turn.

Row 18: ch1, hdc in the first st, *ch1, sk1, 1hdc* rep * * across placing the last hdc in the last st. Turn.

Row 19: ch1, 81hdc (place 1 hdc in each hdc and 1 in each ch). Turn.

Change to C3

Row 20: csdc, 80dc. Turn.

Row 21: ch1, 2sc, *ch2, sk2, v-st, ch2, sk2, 1sc* rep * * until last st, 1sc in the final st. Turn.

Row 22: cstr, 1tr, [pf, ch2, pf, ch2, pf] all in the first v-st, *ch1, [pf, ch2, pf, ch2, pf] all in the next v-st*, rep * * across, 2tr in the last 2 sts. Turn.

Row 23: csdc, 1dc, *ch1, 1dc in the next ch2, ch1, 1dc in the next ch2, ch1, 1dc in next ch1*, rep * * across placing the last dc of the repeat into the 2nd to last tr, 1dc. Turn. 

Row 24: csdc, 80dc. Turn.

Rep Rows 1 - 24 five more times (6 times total)

Then, Rep Rows 1 - 19 and FO

Block pattern to measurements.

Happy Creating!

IF YOU LIKED THIS PATTERN, PLEASE SUPPORT ME ON PATREON OR BUY ME A COFFEE!

I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #ilyssasshawl

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

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Facebook: Ravin Sekai Designs
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Patreon: Ravin Sekai Designs

Hi! I’m Rachel.

I’m a quirky world traveller, avid knitter, crochet lover, pattern maker, and all around nerd! I spend a lot of time clowning around, and I often have the goofiest smile on my face. This website is the landing place for my new patterns, random thoughts, and general craziness. I hope you enjoy my randomness and my yarnie goodness!

You Might Also Like:

THIS IS PART 2 OF THE PATTERN. IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR PART 1, PLEASE CLICK HERE

THANK YOU! to all my wonderful testers!

Sandra, Wren, Kat, and Larissa

I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #sewingseedscardigan

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

FOLLOW ME ON SOCIAL MEDIA

Facebook: Ravin Sekai Designs
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WHAT YOU NEED:

Needles: Size 5.5mm and 5mm or sizes needed to obtain gauge

Yarn: Worsted Weight 4 yarn. Sample knit in Lion Brand Touch of Alpaca. 1200(1300, 1410, 1500, 1620, 1700, 1850) yards

Gauge: 17 st/24 rows = 4” w/ 5.5mm needles in stockinette. Gauge is after blocking.

Other: stitch markers, scissors, waste yarn or stitch holders

Suggested Bust Measurements: Measurements will be in inches throughout.
S: 32”-35”, M: 36”-39”, L: 40”-43”, XL: 44”-47”, 2XL: 48”-51”, 3XL: 52”-55”,  4XL: 56”-59”

Finished Garment Sizing: Size is after blocking. Worn with 10” - 13” of positive ease. S: bust - 46“ x Length - 30“, M: bust - 50“ x Length - 30“, L: bust - 54“ x Length - 31“, XL: bust - 58“ x Length - 31“, 2XL: bust - 62“ x Length - 32“, 3XL: bust - 66“ x Length - 32“, 4XL: bust - 70“ x Length - 33“

Model: model is 4’11” tall, 38” bust, 30” waist, 40” hips wearing size small, with 8” positive ease in bust.

ABBREVIATIONS:

CO: cast on. I used the cable cast on.

RS: right side

WS: wrong side

St/sts: stitch/stitches

Rep: repeat

Cont: continue

Dec: decrease

Sl1kw: slip one stitch knitwise. slip your stitch knitwise from your left needle to the right without knitting it.

K: knit

P: purl

Pm: place stitch marker

Sm: slip stitch marker

Ssk: slip, slip, knit. It is a left leaning decrease on the RS. slip the first stitch as if to knit onto right-hand needles, slip the second stitch as if to knit, then slide the left-hand needle into the front part of both stitches and knit them together.

K2tog: knit two together. It is a right leaning decrease on the RS.

P2tog: purl 2 together. Left leaning dec on WS, Right leaning dec on RS.

P2togtbl: purl 2 together through the back loop. Right leaning dec on WS, Left leaning dec on RS.

BO: bind off.

Notes:

• Sizes: Pattern is written as follows: S(M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL). This is a drop shoulder cardigan, meaning the bust measurements also affect the sleeve length. When choosing your size, use both the suggested measurements and the measurements of the actual cardigan. The cardigan is meant to be worn with 10”-13” of positive ease as a suggestion. But, knowing your body and how you like to wear your drop shoulders helps in picking the size you will want to make. The cardigan looks great with anything from 4”-16” of positive ease. Take that information with you when choosing which size to make.

• Construction: Cardigan is knit bottom up. Then, while keeping the other sections on stitch holders or waste yarn, the front panels and back are knit independently. The shoulders are seamed leaving the collar unfinished and the sleeves are seamed to the shoulders. Then, the collar is finished with join-as-you-go knitting.

• Length: If you would like a longer cardigan, add rows to the portion of the cardigan before you start the decreases for the neckline.

• Neckline/Sleeve Decreases: I made my neckline/sleeve decreases 3 stitches in from the seed stitch collar band/end, because I don’t like them right against the band/side of the work. On the RS, I ssk at the beginning of the row and k2tog at the end of the row. On the WS, p2togtbl at the beginning of the row and p2tog at the end of the row

• Seed Stitch: Make sure that you don’t tighten your tension when you go from the seed stitch to stockinette. A tighter tension on the seed stitch, especially at the collar, will result in the collar rolling under.

THE PATTERN:

For the free pattern of this design please continue on this page. Please consider supporting me by purchasing the 100% ad-free PDF with all extras/charts for this pattern on my Ravelry or ETSY pages. Or consider joining my Patreon for member perks.

THIS IS PART 2 OF THE PATTERN. IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR PART 1, PLEASE CLICK HERE

Shoulder Seams and Collar:

Before seaming your shoulders, block the cardigan. Seam the shoulders with the mattress stitch, leaving the 8 collar stitches on both sides unseamed (the sts on the st holder and the bound off sts of the collar on the opposite front panel). Next, we are going to finish the collar along the back of the neck using a “join-as-you-go” knitting method. A good video to show you the basics of this method can be found here: https://youtu.be/S8p5b9ga6yA . The back of the neck sts that you will be picking up will be the BO sts (like you would pick up if you were working a normal rib collar).

Tip: depending on your tension, pick up every other st on the back of the neck, or skip every 3rd or 4th st. For my collar, I picked up 3 back of neck sts, then skipped the 4th st along the back. Remember, picking up too many sts will make the back of the collar loose and wavy, picking up too few will make the back of the collar too tight on the neck and pucker.

Collar:

Place the sts from the waste yarn/st holder back onto your 5mm needles.

Row 1: With WS facing you, sl1kw, k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, sl last st kw, yo, pick up the first BO st on the back of the sweater that is un-worked after the shoulder seam, slip the sl st and the yo you just did over the st that you picked up, turn your work.

Row 2: with yarn in front sl1 purlwise, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2, p1 through the back loop. (this is just to turn this one st. For the remainder of the back of the collar, just do a normal p st).

Cont. in pattern until you have picked up the back of the neck sts and joined your collar to your back of neck. BO then seam the 2 sides of the collar together.

Sleeves:

We will be making 2 sleeves. Much like the neckline, the sleeves are going to decrease 3 sts from the sides on both the RS and WS to maintain an even slope. Check out the notes section for how to decrease. There is a section of 8 sts of seed stitch in the center of the sleeves. Follow the directions for your size below.

Small/Medium:

Long Tail CO 94 sts (this counts as Row 1)

Row 2 (WS): p43, pm, *k1, p1* x4, pm, p43

Row 3 (RS, dec row): k2, ssk, k to marker, sm, *p1, k1* x4, sm, k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2

Row 4: p to marker, sm, *k1, p1* x4, sm, p to end

Row 5: k to marker, sm, *p1, k1* x4, sm, k to end

Row 6 (WS, dec row): p2, p2tog, p to marker, sm, *k1, p1* x4, sm, p to last 4 sts, p2togtbl, p2

Row 7 - Row 96: cont in pattern. Dec 1 st on each side every 3rd row 18 more times, then dec 1 st on each side every 4th row 9 times. (29 total dec, 36 sts remaining)

Cuff change to a 5mm needle:

Row 97: *k2, p2* rep * * to end of row.

Row 98: *k2, p2* rep ** to end of row.

Row 99 - Row 108: rep the 2x2 rib

BO - Go to Assembly

Large/XL:

Long Tail CO 104 sts (this counts as Row 1)

Row 2 (WS): p48, pm, *k1, p1* x4, pm, k48

Row 3 (RS, dec row): k2, ssk, k to marker, sm, *p1, k1* x4, sm, k to  last 4 sts, k2tog, k2

Row 4: p to marker, sm, *k1, p1* x4, sm, p to end

Row 5: k to marker, sm, *p1, k1* x4, sm, k to end

Row 6 (WS, dec row): p2, p2tog, p to marker, sm, *k1, p1* x4, sm, p to last 4 sts, p2togtbl, p2

Row 7 - Row 96: cont in pattern knitting all RS rows and purling all WS rows. Dec 1 st on each side every 3rd row 30 more times. (32 total dec, 40 sts remaining)

Cuff change to a 5mm needle:

Row 97: *k2, p2* rep * * to end of row.

Row 98: *k2, p2* rep ** to end of row.

Row 99 - Row 108: rep the 2x2 rib

BO - Go to Assembly

2XL/3XL:

Long Tail CO 112 sts (this counts as Row 1)

Row 2 (WS, dec row): p2, p2tog, p48, pm, *k1, p1* x4, pm, p48, p2togtbl, p2

Row 3 (RS): k to marker, sm, *p1, k1* x4, sm, k to end

Row 4 - Row 96: cont in pattern knitting all RS rows and purling all WS rows. Dec 1 st on each side every 2nd row 5 more times, then dec 1 st every 3rd row 28 times. (34 total dec, 44 sts remaining)

Cuff change to a 5mm needle:

Row 97: *k2, p2* rep * * to end of row.

Row 98: *k2, p2* rep ** to end of row.

Row 99 - Row 108: rep the 2x2 rib

BO - Go to Assembly

4XL:

Long Tail CO 120 sts (this counts as Row 1)

Row 2 (WS, dec row): p2, p2tog, p52, pm, *k1, p1* x4, pm, p52, p2togtbl, p2

Row 3 (RS):k to marker, sm, *p1, k1* x4, sm, k to end

Row 4 - Row 96: cont in pattern knitting all RS rows and purling all WS rows. Dec 1 st on each side every 2nd row 11 more times, then dec 1 st every 3rd row 24 times. (36 total dec, 48 sts remaining)

Cuff change to a 5mm needle:

Row 97: *k2, p2* rep * * to end of row.

Row 98: *k2, p2* rep ** to end of row.

Row 99 - Row 108: rep the 2x2 rib

BO - Go to Assembly

Assembly:

Using the mattress stitch, seam the sleeves on to the body of the cardigan, then seam down the length of the sleeves. Weave in all ends and block a final time if so desired.

Enjoy your cardigan!

Happy Creating!

IF YOU LIKED THIS PATTERN, PLEASE SUPPORT ME ON PATREON OR BUY ME A COFFEE!

I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #sewingseedscardigan

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

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Hi! I’m Rachel.

I’m a quirky world traveller, avid knitter, crochet lover, pattern maker, and all around nerd! I spend a lot of time clowning around, and I often have the goofiest smile on my face. This website is the landing place for my new patterns, random thoughts, and general craziness. I hope you enjoy my randomness and my yarnie goodness!

You Might Also Like:

THIS IS PART 1 OF THE PATTERN. IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR PART 2, PLEASE CLICK HERE

ABOUT THIS Design:

Sewing Seeds is a stockinette, drop shoulder cardigan with seed stitch details down the sides, shoulder and sleeves. The combination creates a simple but elegant garment that is perfect for those chilly fall days! The gentle V-neck of the front collar frames the body in the best way giving this cardigan a more streamlined look. This effect makes it suitable to wear with both casual and dressier outfits.

The pattern comes with directions for sizes S - 4XL, which accommodates bust sizes 26 - 59 with 10” - 13” of positive ease. This gives you a wide range of options when choosing the perfect size for you. You can size up and get an oversized cardigan that is just that much cozier, or you can choose to size down and make a lovely form fitting cardigan that goes great with slimmer outfits. You can also easily make the cardigan longer by adding rows. I chose to make the small with about 8” of positive ease. I wanted oversized, but not too much. However, some of my testers decided to go SUPER oversized with 14”-16” and they look AWESOME.

The sample cardigan is knit with Lion Brand Touch of Alpaca yarn. This yarn is a aran weight 4 yarn. You can use any weight 4 yarn with this cardigan as long as you meet gauge.

I hope you love this cardigan as much as I do!

THANK YOU! to all my wonderful testers!

Sandra, Wren, Kat, and Larissa

I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #sewingseedscardigan

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

FOLLOW ME ON SOCIAL MEDIA

Facebook: Ravin Sekai Designs
Ravelry: RavinSekai
Etsy: Ravin Sekai Designs
Instagram: @ravinsekaidesigns
Pinterest: Ravin Sekai Designs
Patreon: Ravin Sekai Designs

WHAT YOU NEED:

Needles: Size 5.5mm and 5mm or sizes needed to obtain gauge

Yarn: Worsted Weight 4 yarn. Sample knit in Lion Brand Touch of Alpaca. 1200(1300, 1410, 1500, 1620, 1700, 1850) yards

Gauge: 17 st/24 rows = 4” w/ 5.5mm needles in stockinette. Gauge is after blocking.

Other: stitch markers, scissors, waste yarn or stitch holders

Suggested Bust Measurements: Measurements will be in inches throughout. S: 32”-35”, M: 36”-39”, L: 40”-43”, XL: 44”-47”, 2XL: 48”-51”, 3XL: 52”-55”,  4XL: 56”-59”

Finished Garment Sizing: Size is after blocking. Worn with 10” - 13” of positive ease. S: bust - 46“ x Length - 30“, M: bust - 50“ x Length - 30“, L: bust - 54“ x Length - 31“, XL: bust - 58“ x Length - 31“, 2XL: bust - 62“ x Length - 32“, 3XL: bust - 66“ x Length - 32“, 4XL: bust - 70“ x Length - 33“

Model: model is 4’11” tall, 38” bust, 30” waist, 40” hips wearing size small, with 8” positive ease in bust.

ABBREVIATIONS:

CO: cast on. I used the cable cast on.

RS: right side

WS: wrong side

St/sts: stitch/stitches

Rep: repeat

Cont: continue

Dec: decrease

Sl1kw: slip one stitch knitwise. slip your stitch knitwise from your left needle to the right without knitting it.

K: knit

P: purl

Pm: place stitch marker

Sm: slip stitch marker

Ssk: slip, slip, knit. It is a left leaning decrease on the RS. slip the first stitch as if to knit onto right-hand needles, slip the second stitch as if to knit, then slide the left-hand needle into the front part of both stitches and knit them together.

K2tog: knit two together. It is a right leaning decrease on the RS.

P2tog: purl 2 together. Left leaning dec on WS, Right leaning dec on RS.

P2togtbl: purl 2 together through the back loop. Right leaning dec on WS, Left leaning dec on RS.

BO: bind off.

Notes:

• Sizes: Pattern is written as follows: S(M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL). This is a drop shoulder cardigan, meaning the bust measurements also affect the sleeve length. When choosing your size, use both the suggested measurements and the measurements of the actual cardigan. The cardigan is meant to be worn with 10”-13” of positive ease as a suggestion. But, knowing your body and how you like to wear your drop shoulders helps in picking the size you will want to make. The cardigan looks great with anything from 4”-16” of positive ease. Take that information with you when choosing which size to make.

• Construction: Cardigan is knit bottom up. Then, while keeping the other sections on stitch holders or waste yarn, the front panels and back are knit independently. The shoulders are seamed leaving the collar unfinished and the sleeves are seamed to the shoulders. Then, the collar is finished with join-as-you-go knitting.

• Length: If you would like a longer cardigan, add rows to the portion of the cardigan before you start the decreases for the neckline.

• Neckline/Sleeve Decreases: I made my neckline/sleeve decreases 3 stitches in from the seed stitch collar band/end, because I don’t like them right against the band/side of the work. On the RS, I ssk at the beginning of the row and k2tog at the end of the row. On the WS, p2togtbl at the beginning of the row and p2tog at the end of the row

• Seed Stitch: Make sure that you don’t tighten your tension when you go from the seed stitch to stockinette. A tighter tension on the seed stitch, especially at the collar, will result in the collar rolling under.

THE PATTERN:

For the free pattern of this design please continue on this page. Please consider supporting me by purchasing the 100% ad-free PDF with all extras/charts for this pattern on my Ravelry or ETSY pages. Or consider joining my Patreon for member perks.

This is Part 1 of the pattern. If you are looking for pt 2, go here.

Bottom Band:

w/ 5.5mm needles CO 196( 212, 230, 246, 264, 280, 298) sts 

Row 1: sl1kw, k2, *p1, k1* rep * * until the last 3 sts, k2, sl1kw

Row 2: p1, k2, *k1, p1* rep * * until last 3 sts, k2, p1

Row 3 - Row 24: rep Rows 1 - 2

Body:

S - XL ONLY

Row 25: sl1kw, k2, *p1, k1* x2, p1, pm, k33(37, 41, 45), pm, *p1, k1* x 8, pm, k82(90, 100, 108), pm, *p1, k1* x8, pm, k33(37, 41, 45), pm, k1, *p1, k1* x2, k2, sl1kw

Row 26: p1, k2, *k1, p1* x2, k1, sm,  p33(37, 41, 45), sm, *k1, p1* x8, sm, p82(90, 100, 108), sm, *k1, p1* x8, sm, p33(37, 41, 45), sm, p1, *k1, p1* x2, k2, p1

Row 27 - Row 96(96, 102, 102): rep Rows 25 - 26

2XL - 4XL ONLY

Row 25: sl1kw, k2, *p1, k1* x2, p1, pm, k50(54, 58), pm, *k1, p1* x 8, pm,  k116(124, 134), pm, *k1, p1* x8, pm, k50(54, 58), pm, k1, *p1, k1* x2, k2, sl1kw

Row 26: p1, k2, *k1, p1* x2, k1, sm, p50(54, 58), sm, *p1, k1* x8, sm, p116(124, 134), sm, *p1, k1* x8, sm, p50(54, 58), sm, p1, *k1, p1* x2, k2, p1

Row 27 - Row 108(108, 114): rep Rows 25 - 26

Front Neckline/Sleeve Separation:

We will now be starting the neckline, then separating the front and back panels for the sleeves. For each size this happens on different rows. Find your size below to follow the directions.

Small/Medium:

On Row 97, we will be starting the decreases for the neckline on either side of the cardigan. You will make these decreases 3 stitches after the first marker and 3 stitches before the last marker. These dec also happen on both the RS and WS. See notes about neckline decreases. You will dec 1 stitch on each front panel at the collar every 5th row 12 times, then every 6th row 4 times for a total of 16 decreases. (This method ensures the neckline decreases smoothly). When you separate the panels for the sleeve openings, you will continue in pattern for the neckline. 

Row 97 - Row 114: cont. in pattern making your decreases every 5th row (4 decreases)

Separating Front Panel 1:

Now we are going to separate the first front panel from the rest of the cardigan to create the sleeve openings. 

Row 115: sl1kw, k2, *p1, k1* x2, p1, sm, k29(33), sm, *p1, k1* x 4, turn leaving the remaining stitches unknit but still on the needles. (or you can slip the remaining stitches onto waste yarn/stitch holders to be knit later, your choice.)

Row 116: *k1, p1* x 4, sm, p29(33), sm, p1, *k1, p1* x 2, k2, p1

Row 117 - Row 180: cont in pattern decreasing every 5th row (8 more times), then every 6th row (4 times) at the collar.

BO

Back:

Row 115: Re-attach the yarn to the back portion on the RS. *p1, k1* x 4, sm, k82(90), sm, *p1, k1* x4, turn leaving the remaining stitches of the last panel unknit but still on the needles.

Row 116: *k1, p1* x4, sm, p82(90), sm, *k1, p1* x4

Row 117 - Row 180: cont in pattern

BO

Separating Front Panel 2:

Re-attach the yarn to the last front panel on the RS.

Row 115: *p1, k1* x4, sm, k29(33), sm, k1, *p1, k1* x2, k2, sl1kw

Row 116: p1, k2, *k1, p1* x2, k1, sm, p29(33), sm, *k1, p1* x4

Row 117 - Row 180: cont in pattern decreasing every 5th row (8 more times), then every 6th row (4 times) at the collar.

BO all sts except the last 8 of the collar. Place these sts on waste yarn or a st holder to be worked later. Go to shoulder seams

Large/XL:

On Row 103, we will be starting the decreases for the neckline on either side of the cardigan. You will make these decreases 3 stitches after the first marker and 3 stitches before the last marker. These decreases also happen on both the RS and WS. See notes about neckline decreases. You will decrease 1 stitch on each front panel at the collar every 5th row 12 times, then every 6th row 4 times for a total of 16 decreases. (This method ensures the neckline decreases smoothly). When you separate the panels for the sleeve openings, you will continue in pattern for the neckline. 

Row 103 - Row 114: cont. in pattern making your decreases every 5th row (3 decreases)

Separating Front Panel 1:

Now we are going to separate the first front panel from the rest of the cardigan to create the sleeve openings. 

Row 115: sl1kw, k2, *p1, k1* x2, p1, sm, k38(42), sm, *p1, k1* x 4, turn leaving the remaining stitches unknit but still on the needles (or you can slip the remaining stitches onto waste yarn/stitch holders to be knit later, your choice.)

Row 116: *k1, p1* x 4, sm, p38(42), sm, p1, *k1, p1* x 2, k2, p1

Row 117 - Row 186: cont in pattern decreasing every 5th row (9 more times), then every 6th row (4 times) at the collar.

BO

Back:

Row 115: Re-attach the yarn to the back portion on the RS. *p1, k1* x 4, sm, k100(108), sm, *p1, k1* x4, turn leaving the remaining stitches of the last panel unknit but still on the needles.

Row 116: *k1, p1* x4, sm, p100(108), sm, *k1, p1* x4

Row 117 - Row 186: cont in pattern.

BO

Separating Front Panel 2:

Re-attach the yarn to the last front panel on the RS.

Row 115: *p1, k1* x4, sm, k38(42), sm, k1, *p1, k1* x2, k2, sl1kw

Row 116: p1, k2, *k1, p1* x2, k1, sm, p38(42), sm, *k1, p1* x4

Row 117 - Row 186: cont in pattern decreasing every 5th row (9 more times), then every 6th row (4 times) at the collar.

BO all sts except the last 8 of the collar. Place these sts on waste yarn or a st holder to be worked later. Go to shoulder seams.

2XL/3XL:

On Row 109, we will be starting the decreases for the neckline on either side of the cardigan. You will make these decreases 3 stitches after the first marker and 3 stitches before the last marker. These decreases also happen on both the RS and WS. See notes about neckline decreases. You will decrease 1 stitch oon each front panel at the collar every 5th row 12 times, then every 6th row 4 times for a total of 16 decreases. (This method ensures the neckline decreases smoothly). When you separate the panels for the sleeve openings, you will continue in pattern for the neckline. 

Row 109 - Row 114: cont. in pattern making your decreases every 5th row (2 decreases)

Separating Front Panel 1:

Now we are going to separate the first front panel from the rest of the cardigan to create the sleeve openings. 

Row 115: sl1kw, k2, *p1, k1* x2, p1, sm, k48(52), sm, *k1, p1* x 4, turn leaving the remaining stitches unknit but still on the needles (or you can slip the remaining stitches onto waste yarn/stitch holders to be knit later, your choice.)

Row 116: *p1, k1* x 4, sm, p48(52), sm, p1, *k1, p1* x 2, k2, p1

Row 117 - Row 192: cont in pattern decreasing every 5th row (10 more times), then every 6th row (4 times) at the collar.

BO

Back:

Row 115: Re-attach the yarn to the back portion on the RS. *k1, p1* x 4, sm, k116(124), sm, *k1, p1* x4, turn leaving the remaining stitches of the last panel unknit but still on the needles.

Row 116: *p1, k1* x4, sm, p116(124), sm, *p1, k1* x4

Row 117 - Row 192: cont in pattern.

BO

Separating Front Panel 2:

Re-attach the yarn to the last front panel on the RS.

Row 115: *k1, p1* x4, sm, k48(52), sm, k1, *p1, k1* x2, k2, sl1kw

Row 116: p1, k2, *k1, p1* x2, k1, sm, p48(52), sm, *p1, k1* x4

Row 117 - Row 192: cont in pattern decreasing every 5th row (10 more times), then every 6th row (4 times) at the collar.

BO all sts except the last 8 of the collar. Place these sts on waste yarn or a st holder to be worked later. Go to shoulder seams.

4XL:

On Row 115, we will be starting the decreases for the neckline on either side of the cardigan AND separating the sleeves. You will make the decreases 3 stitches after the first marker and 3 stitches before the last marker. These decreases also happen on both the RS and WS. See notes about neckline decreases. You will decrease 1 stitch on each front panel at the collar every 5th row 12 times, then every 6th row 4 times for a total of 16 decreases. (This method ensures the neckline decreases smoothly). When you separate the panels for the sleeve openings, you will continue in pattern for the neckline. 

Separating Front Panel 1:

We are going to separate the first front panel from the rest of the cardigan to create the sleeve openings. 

Row 115 (dec row): sl1kw, k2, *p1, k1* x2, p1, sm, k2, ssk, k54, sm, *k1, p1* x 4, turn leaving the remaining stitches unknit but still on the needles (or you can slip the remaining stitches onto waste yarn/stitch holders to be knit later, your choice.)

Row 116: *p1, k1* x 4, sm, p57, sm, p1, *k1, p1* x 2, k2, p1

Row 117 - Row 198: cont in pattern decreasing every 5th row (11 more times), then every 6th row (4 times) at the collar.

BO

Back:

Re-attach the yarn to the back portion on the RS.

Row 115: *k1, p1* x 4, sm,  k134, sm, *k1, p1* x4, turn leaving the remaining stitches of the last panel unknit but still on the needles.

Row 116: *p1, k1* x4, sm, p134, sm, *p1, k1* x4

Row 117 - Row 198: cont in pattern.

BO

Separating Front Panel 2:

Re-attach the yarn to the last front panel on the RS.

Row 115 (dec row): *k1, p1* x4, sm, k54, k2tog, k2, sm, k1, *p1, k1* x2, k2, sl1kw

Row 116: p1, k2, *k1, p1* x2, k1, sm, p48(52), sm, *p1, k1* x4

Row 117 - Row 198: cont in pattern decreasing every 5th row (11 more times), then every 6th row (4 times) at the collar.

BO all sts except the last 8 of the collar. Place these sts on waste yarn or a st holder to be worked later. Go to shoulder seams.

Find seaming, finishing the collar, and sleeves in Part 2.

Happy Creating!

IF YOU LIKED THIS PATTERN, PLEASE SUPPORT ME ON PATREON OR BUY ME A COFFEE!

I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #sewingseedscardigan

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

FOLLOW ME ON SOCIAL MEDIA

Facebook: Ravin Sekai Designs
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Hi! I’m Rachel.

I’m a quirky world traveller, avid knitter, crochet lover, pattern maker, and all around nerd! I spend a lot of time clowning around, and I often have the goofiest smile on my face. This website is the landing place for my new patterns, random thoughts, and general craziness. I hope you enjoy my randomness and my yarnie goodness!

You Might Also Like:

This is Halloween! This is Halloween! Just 46 days until the Spookiest DAY! I’m super stoked.

Last year, my husband and I went to an itty bitty party with friends. I was so happy to dress up and enjoy! And we even had a couple little trick or treaters to give candy to! I used my Boo-tastic Treat Bag to hand out candy last year. Now, I have 2 cute bags to use to give out my treats!

ABOUT THIS BAG:

This is the Winged Wizard Treat Bag and it is more than ready to be filled to the brim with candy and treats! This awesome little bag is perfect for your kiddie (or let’s be honest, YOU!) to fill up with that Halloween haul. It is just the perfect size to carry just the right amount of goodies!

The Winged Wizard Treat Bag is created with sc tapestry crochet and 9 colors of yarn. Aside from the black and mint, you can easily use scraps from other projects to complete your bag. And, not only that, but you can use any colors you want to whip up your spooky theme!

The pattern calls for worsted weight 4 yarn. The sample in the pictures was crocheted with Big Twist Value yarn and Caron One Pound, which is an acrylic. But, you can use any weight 4 you desire to make your treat bag. I would suggest that if you use wool, to use a superwash since it’ll need to take a beating on your Trick or Treat adventure!

Get creative! And make sure you tag #wingedwizardbag on social media to show everyone your finished project!

THANK YOU! to all my wonderful testers!

Sandra, Lisa, Robyn, and Kat

I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #wingedwizardbag

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

FOLLOW ME ON SOCIAL MEDIA

Facebook: Ravin Sekai Designs
Ravelry: RavinSekai
Instagram: @ravinsekaidesigns
Pinterest: Ravin Sekai Designs
Patreon: Ravin Sekai Designs

WHAT YOU NEED:

What You Need:

Hook Size: 4mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge

Yarn: Worsted weight 4 yarn. Sample crocheted in Caron One Pound and Big Twist Value. 600 yards total, 215 yrds black, 200 yrds mint, 25 or less yrds of all other colors.

Gauge: 18.5 st/18.5 rows= 4” in sc. 

Finished Bag Sizing: approx. 4" depth (front to back) x 12.5"  length (top to bottom with handles) x 11.5" width (side to side)

ABBREVIATIONS:

Abbreviations in US terms
Ch: chain
RS: right side, the side of your crochet on the outside that everyone will see.
WS: wrong side, the side of your crochet on the inside that no one will see.
MNT: mint
NAV: navy
YEL: yellow
BLK: black
BRN: brown
LAV: lavender
TUR: turquoise
MAR: maroon
GRY: grey
St/Sts: stitch
Sl st: slip stitch
Sc: single crochet
Hdc: half double crochet
Fphdc: front post half double crochet
Bphdc: back post half double crochet
Rep: repeat
Sk: skip
FO: fasten off

Notes:

1. The entire bag, aside from the handles, is made with single crochets. Because it is all sc, the directions are written with the number of sc and then the color that you should be using. For example, 53MNT means 53sc in mint yarn.

2. As I crocheted, I used yarn bobbins (ie. clothes pins) to organize my yarn and cut down on the amount of tails I would have to weave in. You can choose to carry the yarn through your project (some portions may get a little bulky with the numerous color changes), or you can use floats. Whichever option you are comfortable with is fine.

3. Feel free to change up the colors you use for your tapestry. The color code is based on the colors I used.

4. I used yarn over sc for my tapestry. Many people suggest using yarn under sc for tapestry work, though. If you choose to use yarn under sc instead, know that your gauge will be a little different and your tapestry may be a bit squashed. Make sure you make a gauge swatch before starting. You want to get as close to the stated gauge as possible to guarantee that your picture comes out undistorted.

5. Chains do not count as stitches.

6. Star Modifications: If you would rather, you can opt to skip putting the stars in while you crochet the tapestry, and instead add them at the end by embroidering them using the Algerian Eye Stitch. https://youtu.be/0yq4HeWa2_A

THE PATTERN:

For the free pattern of this bag please continue on this page. Please consider supporting me by purchasing the 100% ad-free PDF with full tapestry charts for this pattern on my Ravelry or ETSY pages. Or consider joining my Patreon for member perks.

Front:

W/ MNT ch 54

Row 1: [RS]: sc into the 2nd ch from the hook, 52 MNT . Turn. [53 sts]

Row 2: [WS]: ch1, 22 MNT , 3 NAV , 28 MNT . Turn.

Row 3: ch1, 6 MNT , 4 BLK , 17 MNT , 2 NAV , 1 YEL , 5 NAV , 18 MNT . Turn.

Row 4: ch1, 14 MNT , 4 NAV , 1 YEL , 1 NAV , 1 YEL , 2 NAV , 1 YEL , 1 NAV , 1 YEL , 1 NAV , 15 MNT , 2 BLK , 2 YEL , 

1 BLK, 6 MNT . Turn.  

Row 5: ch1, 1 MNT , 4 BLK , 1 MNT , 3 BLK , 1 YEL , 2 BLK , 14 MNT , 1 NAV , 3 YEL , 1 NAV , 2 YEL , 1 NAV , 1 YEL , 2 NAV, 1 YEL , 1 NAV , 14 MNT . Turn.  

Row 6: ch1, 14 MNT , 2 NAV , 4 YEL , 1 NAV , 4 YEL , 2 NAV , 14 MNT , 1 BLK , 1 YEL , 6 BLK , 2 YEL , 1 BLK , 1 MNT

Row 7: ch1, 1 MNT , 2 BLK , 4 YEL , 3 BLK , 1 YEL , 15 BLK , 2 NAV , 2 YEL , 2 NAV , 2 YEL , 3 NAV , 12 BLK , 4 MNT 

Row 8: ch1, 4 MNT ,  1 BLK , 13 BRN , 2 NAV , 2 YEL , 2 NAV , 3 YEL , 1 NAV , 13 BRN , 6 YEL , 4 BLK , 2 MNT 

Row 9: ch1, 5 MNT , 3 BLK , 4 YEL , 12 BRN , 1 NAV , 2 YEL , 3 NAV , 2 YEL , 1 NAV , 15 BRN , 1 BLK , 4 MNT 

Row 10: ch1, 4 MNT , 18 BLK , 2 YEL , 1 BLK , 2 NAV , 2 YEL , 4 NAV , 3 BLK , 2 NAV , 3 BLK , 2 YEL , 1 BLK , 3 YEL , 4 BLK , 2 MNT

Row 11: ch1, 2 MNT , 1 BLK , 4 YEL , 3 BLK , 1 YEL , 2 BLK , 1 MNT , 2 NAV , 2 BLK , 9 LAV , 1 NAV , 2 LAV , 1 BLK , 6 TUR , 2 BLK , 14 MNT  

Row 12: ch1, 15 MNT , 2 BLK , 4 TUR , 1 BLK , 2 LAV , 1 NAV , 6 LAV , 2 NAV , 2 LAV , 2 BLK , 1 LAV , 2 NAV , 1 MNT , 3 BLK, 1 YEL , 6 BLK , 2 MNT

Row 13: ch1, 4 MNT , 2 BLK , 2 YEL , 3 BLK , 1 MNT , 2 NAV , 2 LAV , 2 BLK , 1 LAV , 4 NAV , 8 LAV , 1 BLK , 3 TUR , 2 BLK , 16 MNT   

Row 14: ch1, 17 MNT , 2 BLK , 1 TUR , 2 BLK , 7 LAV , 2 NAV , 2 LAV , 2 NAV , 2 BLK , 3 LAV , 1 NAV , 3 MNT , 3 BLK , 1 YEL, 1 BLK , 4 MNT  

Row 15: ch1,  4 MNT , 3 BLK , 5 MNT , 1 NAV , 3 LAV , 1 BLK , 1 TUR , 1 BLK , 4 LAV , 1 NAV , 8 LAV , 1 BLK , 1 TUR , 1 BLK , 3 NAV , 15 MNT 

Row 16: ch1, 14 MNT , 2 NAV , 3 LAV , 2 BLK , 8 LAV , 1 NAV , 4 LAV , 1 BLK , 1 TUR , 2 NAV , 2 LAV , 1 NAV , 12 MNT   

Row 17: ch1, 12 MNT , 4 NAV , 1 BLK , 2 TUR , 1 BLK , 3 LAV , 1 NAV , 8 LAV , 2 BLK , 4 LAV , 1 NAV , 14 MNT   

Row 18: ch1, 4 MNT , 1 YEL , 8 MNT , 2 NAV , 3 LAV , 2 NAV , 12 LAV , 1 BLK , 3 TUR , 1 BLK , 2 MNT , 2 NAV , 12 MNT

Row 19: ch1, 16 MNT , 2 BLK , 3 TUR , 1 BLK , 3 LAV , 2 MAR , 3 LAV , 1 MAR , 2 LAV , 3 NAV , 3 LAV , 1 NAV , 7 MNT ,          3 YEL , 3 MNT

Row 20: ch1, 4 MNT , 1 YEL , 8 MNT , 1 NAV , 1 LAV , 5 NAV , 3 LAV , 1 MAR , 1 LAV , 1 MAR , 4 LAV , 1 BLK , 4 TUR , 1 BLK, 17 MNT  

Row 21: ch1, 17 MNT , 2 BLK , 4 TUR , 1 BLK , 1 LAV , 6 MAR , 2 LAV , 1 BLK , 3 MNT , 3 NAV , 13 MNT 

Row 22: ch1, 16 MNT , 3 NAV , 3 BLK , 1 MAR , 1 LAV , 1 MAR , 2 LAV , 1 MAR , 1 BLK , 4 TUR , 2 BLK , 18 MNT

Row 23: ch1, 8 MNT , 1 YEL , 10 MNT , 2 BLK , 4 TUR , 3 MAR , 1 TUR , 2 MAR , 1 TUR , 1 BLK , 3 GRY , 10 NAV , 7 MNT 

Row 24: ch1, 7 MNT , 2 NAV , 9 GRY , 2 NAV , 11 TUR , 2 NAV , 10 MNT , 3 YEL , 7 MNT 

Row 25: ch1, 8 MNT , 1 YEL , 10 MNT , 2 NAV , 14 LAV , 1 NAV , 6 GRY , 1 NAV , 1 GRY , 1 NAV , 8 MNT 

Row 26: ch1, 8 MNT , 2 NAV , 1 GRY , 2 NAV , 3 GRY , 1 NAV , 16 LAV , 1 NAV , 19 MNT   

Row 27: ch1, 18 MNT , 2 NAV , 11 LAV , 3 NAV , 2 LAV , 1 NAV , 5 GRY , 2 NAV , 9 MNT

Row 28: ch1, 9 MNT , 2 NAV , 4 GRY , 1 NAV , 2 LAV , 1 NAV , 2 MAR , 1 NAV , 12 LAV , 1 NAV , 18 MNT

Row 29: ch1, 17 MNT , 2 NAV , 12 LAV , 1 NAV , 1 MAR , 1 MNT , 1 NAV , 2 LAV , 1 NAV , 4 GRY , 1 NAV , 10 MNT

Row 30: ch1, 10 MNT , 4 NAV , 1 GRY , 1 NAV , 2 LAV , 3 NAV , 14 LAV , 1 NAV , 17 MNT

Row 31: ch1, 15 MNT , 4 NAV , 18 LAV , 3 NAV , 13 MNT

Row 32: ch1, 14 MNT , 1 NAV , 22 LAV , 4 NAV , 12 MNT 

Row 33: ch1, 12 MNT , 1 NAV , 24 LAV , 2 NAV , 3 MNT , 1 YEL , 10 MNT

Row 34: ch1, 9 MNT , 3 YEL , 3 MNT , 2 NAV , 19 LAV , 5 NAV , 12 MNT

Row 35: ch1, 3 MNT , 1 YEL , 7 MNT , 2 NAV , 23 LAV , 1 NAV , 5 MNT , 1 YEL , 10 MNT

Row 36: ch1, 16 MNT , 2 NAV , 23 LAV , 2 NAV , 5 MNT , 3 YEL , 2 MNT

Row 37: ch1, 3 MNT , 1 YEL , 6 MNT , 2 NAV , 11 BLK , 7 LAV , 11 BLK , 9 MNT , 1 YEL , 2 MNT

Row 38: ch1, 1 MNT , 3 YEL , 7 MNT , 2 BLK , 10 TUR , 7 BLK , 11 TUR , 1 BLK , 11 MNT 

Row 39: ch1, 11 MNT , 1 BLK , 1 TUR , 9 BLK , 13 TUR , 8 BLK , 7 MNT , 1 YEL , 2 MNT

Row 40: ch1, 10 MNT , 1 BLK , 7 MNT , 13 BLK , 3 MAR , 2 BLK , 4 MNT , 2 BLK , 11 MNT 

Row 41: ch1, 11 MNT , 1 BLK , 6 MNT , 2 BLK , 4 MAR , 7 YEL , 3 MAR , 1 BLK , 18 MNT 

Row 42: ch1, 18 MNT , 2 BLK , 2 MAR , 1 YEL , 5 MAR , 1 YEL , 4 MAR , 1 BLK , 19 MNT 

Row 43: ch1, 12 MNT , 1 YEL, 6 MNT , 2 BLK , 3 MAR , 1 YEL , 5 MAR , 1 YEL , 2 MAR , 1 BLK , 19 MNT 

Row 44: ch1, 19 MNT , 2 BLK , 1 MAR , 7 YEL , 2 MAR , 1 TUR , 1 BLK , 6 MNT , 3 YEL , 11 MNT 

Row 45: ch1, 12 MNT , 1 YEL , 7 MNT , 1 BLK , 11 TUR , 1 BLK , 20 MNT

Row 46: ch1, 20 MNT , 2 BLK , 9 TUR , 2 BLK , 20 MNT

Row 47: ch1, 15 MNT , 1 BLK , 5 MNT , 1 BLK , 9 TUR , 1 BLK , 21 MNT 

Row 48: ch1, 5 MNT , 1 YEL , 15 MNT , 2 BLK , 8 TUR , 1 BLK , 3 MNT , 3 BLK , 15 MNT 

Row 49: ch1, 2 MNT , 1 YEL , 12 MNT , 1 BLK , 1 TUR , 4 BLK , 8 TUR , 2 BLK , 15 MNT , 3 YEL , 4 MNT  

Row 50: ch1, 5 MNT , 1 YEL , 17 MNT , 3 BLK , 10 TUR , 2 BLK , 11 MNT , 3 YEL , 1 MNT

Row 51: ch1, 2 MNT , 1 YEL , 13 MNT , 3 BLK , 4 TUR , 5 BLK , 25 MNT  

Row 52: ch1, 29 MNT , 6 BLK , 18 MNT 

Row 53: ch1, 53 MNT

FO

Back:

With MNT ch 54

Row 1 [RS]: sc into the 2nd ch from the hook, 52sc. Turn. (53sts)

Row 2 [WS]: ch1, 53sc. Turn.

Row 3 - Row 53: rep Row 2.

FO

Sides: (make 2)

With BLK ch 19

Row 1 [RS]: sc into the 2nd ch from the hook, 17sc. Turn. (18sts)

Row 2 [WS]: ch1, 18sc. Turn.

Row 3 - Row 53: rep Row 2.

FO

Bottom:

With BLK ch 54

Row 1 [RS]: sc into the 2nd ch from the hook, 52sc. Turn. (53sts)

Row 2 [WS]: ch1, 53sc. Turn.

Row 3 - Row 20: rep Row 2.

FO

Assembly:

With your prefered seaming method, seam the sides, front, and back to the bottom, then seam the sides.

Handle:

With BLK yarn, attach yarn to the 1st st on the right side of the front panel with a sl st. 

Round 1: ch1, sc into the same st as the sl st, then 52sc across the front, 18sc across the 1st side, 53sc across the back, 18sc across the 2nd side, sl st into the 1st sc of the round. (142 sts). DO NOT TURN.

Round 2: ch2 (does not count as st throughout), *1fphdc, 1bphdc* rep * * around, sl st into the ch2.

Round 3: ch2, *1fphdc, 1bphdc* rep * * 9 more times (20 sts), ch13, sk13, 1bpdc, *fphdc, bphdc* rep * * 27 more times (56 sts), 1fphdc, ch13, sk13, *1fphdc, 1bphdc* rep * * 18 more times (38 sts), sl st into the ch2.

Round 4: ch2, *1fphdc, 1bphdc* rep * * 9 more times (20 sts), 13hdc along the ch13, 1bphdc, *fphdc, bphdc* rep * * 27 more times (56 sts), 1fphdc, 13hdc along the ch13, *1fphdc, 1bphdc* rep * * 18 more times (38 sts), sl st into the ch2.

Round 5: ch2, *1fphdc, 1bphdc* rep * * around, sl st into the ch2.   

FO

weave in all ends and enjoy!

Happy Crocheting!

IF YOU LIKED THIS PATTERN, PLEASE SUPPORT ME ON PATREON OR BUY ME A COFFEE!

I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #wingedwizardbag

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Hi! I’m Rachel.

I’m a quirky world traveller, avid knitter, crochet lover, pattern maker, and all around nerd! I spend a lot of time clowning around, and I often have the goofiest smile on my face. This website is the landing place for my new patterns, random thoughts, and general craziness. I hope you enjoy my randomness and my yarnie goodness!

ABOUT THIS Design:

Time for something completely different! Well not really. Last winter I had the amazing opportunity to collaborate with Hobbii Yarn! Together we made this amazing duster that I am just IN LOVE WITH!

This is the Doireann Duster. Now, first off, how do you even say that? and what is a Doireann? Well, if you’re from Ireland, you’re gonna know, because Doireann is a girls name! And it’s pronounced Dear-in. Is that how you thought it would be said?

But, anyway, This cardigan is an adorable oversized gem! It is the perfect cardigan for snuggling on the couch or running around town. It has an easy construction and great texture. Using the Even Berry Stitch and the Moss Stitch, this cardigan has just the right amount of details to keep it interesting. And, pair the oversized feeling with lantern sleeves, and you have the best possible combination of style and comfort.

The yarn I used on this cardigan is called Tweed Delight, and it was just a dream to work with. It is an 85% wool, 10% acrylic, and 5% viscose yarn. The yarn is gently twined in a roving like style with viscose flecks to create the tweed. And even better, there are a great variety of colors to choose from in this yarn!

I hope you guys enjoy making this duster as much as I did!

THANK YOU! to all my wonderful testers!

Kat, Lizzy, and Sandra

I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #hobbiidoireannduster

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

FOLLOW ME ON SOCIAL MEDIA

Facebook: Ravin Sekai Designs
Ravelry: RavinSekai
Etsy: Ravin Sekai Designs
Instagram: @ravinsekaidesigns
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Patreon: Ravin Sekai Designs

WHAT YOU NEED:

Hook Size: 6mm and 6.5mm or size needed to obtain gauge

Yarn: Worsted weight 4 yarn. Sample crocheted in Hobbii Tweed Delight. 1635(1853,1950, 2071, 2289, 2507, 2725) yards total. 

Gauge: Gauge is after blocking. Even Berry Stitch w/ 6mm hook: 11.25 sts/12.5 rows = 4”. Moss Stitch w/ 6.5mm hook: 13sts/15 rows = 4”

Ideal Bust Measurements: S: 32”-35”, M: 36”-39”, L: 40”-43”, XL: 44”-47”, 2XL: 48”-51”, 3XL: 52”-55” 4XL: 56”-59”

Finished Garment Sizing: Size is after blocking. Worn with 11-14” of positive ease. Bust (total circ): 46(50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70)” x Length (with collar and bottom band): 34(34, 35, 35, 36, 36, 37)” [Measurements are made with garment laid flat. Keep in mind, the weight of the yarn may cause the cardigan to be longer when worn.]

Model Size: model is 4’11” tall, 36” bust, 27.5” waist, 40” hips wearing size small with 10” positive ease.

ABBREVIATIONS:

Abbreviations in US terms

Ch: chain

RS: right side. The side of the work that will face away from the body and be seen. Outside of sweater

WS: wrong side. The side of the work that will be inside the sweater and not seen.

C1: color 1. I used the color Dijon.

C2: color 2. I used the color Stone.

St/sts: stitch/stitches

Sk: skip a st

Inc: increase row. Increase on that st by sc 2 times in the same st

Dec: decrease row. Decrease on that st by sc2tog

Pm: place marker

Sm: stitch marker

Sl st: slip stitch

Sc: single crochet

Sc2tog: single crochet 2 sts together. This is a decrease. 

Scblo: single crochet in the back loop only.

Hdcblo: half double crochet in the back loop only.

Hdcflo: half double crochet in the front loop only.

Berry st: yo and insert hook into next st, yo and draw through a loop, yo and draw through first loop on hook, yo and insert hook into same st, yo and draw through a loop, yo and draw through all 5 loops on hook

Rep: repeat

FO: fasten off

Notes:

1. You will need to crochet a gauge swatch for both the Even Berry Stitch and the Moss Stitch. Be aware that the moss stitch can stretch quite a bit, so making an oversized gauge swatch is a good practice.

2. The cardigan is crocheted as one piece, starting from the bottom of the back panel up. Then each side panel is crocheted continuously without seaming from the back. After completing the back and both side panels, you will fold both side panels down and seam the sides up from the bottom to the arm holes for the sleeves.

3. Pay attention to which size hook you should be using in each section as it changes depending on the stitch and part of the cardigan you are creating.

4. f you want a longer or shorter cardigan, make sure you add the same amount of rows to the back and the side panels. Add or subtract rows in either the Even Berry section or after the neckline shaping in the moss stitch on the front.

5. Ch1 counts as a st on the Even Berry st. It is sometimes hard to see this ch1 when you get to it, so it might be good to place a stitch marker in it so that you know where your last st of the row is. Also, because the ch1 counts as a st, you will not place your second stitch into the first st of the row below, as the ch1 will “fill” that st. Therefore, the first berry st or sc you make goes into the second st.

THE PATTERN:

You can find this pdf pattern for free on the Hobbii website. I hope you enjoy making the Doireann Duster as much as I did!

Happy Creating!

IF YOU LIKED THIS PATTERN, PLEASE SUPPORT ME ON PATREON OR BUY ME A COFFEE!

I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #hobbiidoireannduster

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

FOLLOW ME ON SOCIAL MEDIA

Facebook: Ravin Sekai Designs
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Hi! I’m Rachel.

I’m a quirky world traveller, avid knitter, crochet lover, pattern maker, and all around nerd! I spend a lot of time clowning around, and I often have the goofiest smile on my face. This website is the landing place for my new patterns, random thoughts, and general craziness. I hope you enjoy my randomness and my yarnie goodness!

You Might Also Like:

It’s August. BUT, it’s time to get started on Fall/Winter makes. Right? Who’s with me? I’m actually already ready to start layering my cardigans and fall clothes. That’s pretty typical of me, though. I much prefer the fall to any other season. Cool weather, beautiful nature, all the spices. It all makes me super happy! So, here’s to the the first fall pattern of the year!

ABOUT THIS Design:

Looking for a cute and stylish oversized cardigan for this fall? Well look no further! The Olive This Cardigan is the perfect match for all your needs. 

This cardigan is made using the Floret Stitch, which creates the perfect amount of texture for this garment. The design is worked from side to side, and the front panels are folded down so that the shoulders can be seamed. Then, the sleeves are worked directly onto the cardigan. This method means there are fewer seams! So, if you hate seaming as much as I do, this is definitely the cardigan for you!

Worked up with weight 4 yarn and a 5mm hook for the majority of the garment, this cardigan virtually flies off your hook. You’ll have this beauty done in no time at all.  And, with how quick it works up, you’ll be able to make them for gifts, too! 

For my sample Cardigan, I used Big Twist Value yarn, which is a lovely acrylic yarn. I chose an easily washable yarn for my cardigan because I know I’m going to be wearing it all the time; however, you can use any weight 4 you desire for this garment. Just make sure you check your gauge measurements! 

THANK YOU! to all my wonderful testers!

Lizzy, Chantel, Lisa, Gabrielle, Shannon, Sarah, and Teresa

I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #olivethiscardigan

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

FOLLOW ME ON SOCIAL MEDIA

Facebook: Ravin Sekai Designs
Ravelry: RavinSekai
Etsy: Ravin Sekai Designs
Instagram: @ravinsekaidesigns
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WHAT YOU NEED:

Hook Size: 5mm hook and 4.5mm hook (for collar), or size needed to obtain gauge

Yarn: Aran weight 4 yarn. Sample crocheted in Big Twist Value.1725(1830, 2055, 2185, 2425, 2540, 2765) yards

Gauge: 14 sts/11 rows = 4” w/ 5mm hook. Gauge is after blocking.

Suggested Bust Measurements: Measurements will be in inches throughout. Check out the chart on pg. 6 for measurements in cm. S: 32”-35”, M: 36”-39”, L: 40”-43”, XL: 44”-47”, 2XL: 48”-51”, 3XL: 52”-55”,  4XL: 56”-59”

Finished Garment Sizing: Size is after blocking. Worn with 11” - 14” of positive ease. S: bust - 46“ x Length - 18“, M: bust - 50“ x Length - 18“, L: bust - 54“ x Length - 18 “, XL: bust - 58“ x Length - 18“, 2XL: bust - 62“ x Length - 20.25“, 3XL: bust - 66“ x Length - 20.25“, 4XL: bust - 70“ x Length - 20.25“

Model: model is 4’11” tall, 35” bust, 28” waist, 39” hips wearing size small, with 11” positive ease in bust.

ABBREVIATIONS:

Abbreviations in US terms
RS: right side
WS: wrong side
Ch: chain
St/Sts: stitch, stitches
Sl st: slip stitch
Sc: single crochet
Scblo: single crochet back loop only
Dc: double crochet
Dc2tog: double crochet 2 together
Rep: repeat
Sk: skip
Cont.: continue
Sm: stitch marker
FO: fasten off

Notes:

• Directions: Where there are different numbers of rows/sts for each size, the pattern is written as follows: S(M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL)

• Gauge: ch at least 17 sts and follow the directions for Rows 1-4 below until your swatch reaches at least 11 rows. Check the measurements.

• Construction: Cardigan is crocheted side to side, as one piece. Then, shoulders are seamed and sleeves are crocheted directly onto the body.

• Counting Stitches: Starting ch1 and ch3 count as stitches throughout; 1 sl st and 1 dc respectively. I did a Chainless Starting Double Crochet  instead of a ch3 throughout, because I think it looks cleaner. If you’d like to do this instead, here is a video to show you how. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XFK1tTRBugQ

• Sleeves: The sleeves are crocheted directly onto the cardigan with the WS facing you. That means you will be working with the garment inside out for this portion of the pattern. More about this is explained on pg 4 in the sleeve section

• Cuffs & Collar: are made with scblo ribbing. A good tutorial for this method of adding ribbing on the end of a project can be found on Toni from TL Yarn Crafts’ Youtube channel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xsEPLeUSwmg&t=176s

THE PATTERN:

For the free pattern of this design please continue on this page. Please consider supporting me by purchasing the 100% ad-free PDF with all extras/charts for this pattern on my Ravelry or ETSY pages. Or consider joining my Patreon for member perks.

Body:

Right Front Panel:

Ch 107(107, 111, 111, 115, 115, 117)

Row 1: dc in 4th ch from hook (this counts as a ch3 and 1st double crochet throughout, 2sts), dc across. Turn. [105(105, 109, 109, 113, 113, 115) sts]

Row 2: ch1 (counts as 1 sl st throughout. See Notes.), *dc in next st, sl st in next* rep * * across placing the last sl st into the top of the ch3. Turn.

Row 3: ch3 (counts as 1 dc throughout. See Notes), dc across placing the last dc in the starting ch1 of the previous row. Turn.

Row 4 - Row 27(29, 31, 35, 37, 39, 43): rep rows 2-3. Turn.

Row 28(30, 32, 36, 38, 40, 44): ch1 (counts as 1 sl st), *dc in next st, sl st in next* rep * * across for a total of 77(77, 77, 77, 77, 77, 77) sts ending with a sl st, ch 30(30, 34, 34, 38, 38, 40). Turn. 

Back Panel:

Row 29(31, 33, 37, 39, 41, 45): dc in 4th ch from hook, 26(26, 30, 30, 34, 34, 36) dc across chain, 77(77, 77, 77, 77, 77, 77) dc, placing the last dc in the starting ch1 of the previous row. Turn. [105(105, 109, 109, 113, 113, 115) sts]

Row 30(32, 34, 38, 40, 42, 46): ch1, *dc in next st, sl st in next* rep * * across placing the last sl st into the top of the ch3. Turn.

Row 31(33, 35, 39, 41, 43, 47): ch3, dc across placing the last dc in the starting ch1 of the previous row. Turn.

Row 32(34, 36, 40, 42, 44, 48) - Row 91(99, 107, 115, 123, 131, 141): rep rows 2-3. Turn.

Row 92(100, 108, 116, 124, 132, 142): ch1, *dc in next st, sl st in next* rep * * across for a total of 77(77, 77, 77, 77, 77, 77) sts ending with a sl st, ch 30(30, 34, 34, 38, 38, 40). Turn.

Left Front Panel:

Row 93(101, 109, 117, 125, 133, 143): dc in 4th ch from hook, 26(26, 30, 30, 34, 34, 36) dc across chain, 77(77, 77, 77, 77, 77, 77) dc, placing the last dc in the starting ch1 of the previous row. Turn. [105(105, 109, 109, 113, 113, 115) sts]

Row 94(102, 110, 118, 126, 134, 144): ch1, *dc in next st, sl st in next* rep * * across placing the last sl st into the top of the ch3. Turn.

Row 95(103, 111, 119, 127, 135, 145): ch3, dc across placing the last dc in the starting ch1 of the previous row. Turn.

Row 96(104, 112, 120, 128, 136, 146) - 119(129, 139, 151, 161, 171, 185): rep rows 2-3. Turn

FO

Seaming:

Block to measurements. Fold the 2 front panels over and seam the shoulders like in the diagram (seam at the green lines). I used the mattress stitch, because I think it looks the cleanest, but you can use any seaming method you prefer. However, be aware that if you use something like sl st, you will need to finagle your sts a bit for the sleeves to get the right amount of sts around.

Sleeves:

Now we will be working the sleeve directly onto the body of the cardigan by working in rounds. Because of the nature of the Floret st in the round, we will be working with the cardigan inside out. So, flip your cardigan with the WS facing you. The stitches for the sleeves should be fairly easy to pick up as they are the stitches left unworked and the backs of the chains on the panels. For my sleeves, on the even rows, I did a variation of the regular dc where I put my hook through the fabric from the back to the front instead of the front to the back to ensure that the RS of the fabric of the sleeves looks the same as the RS body. This is not mandatory, I just liked the way it looked. This youtube video shows what I mean, but she is using a half double crochet stitch instead of a dc. The concept is the same, but we will be using the dc stitch. https://youtu.be/uMCN_sx0yok

Round 1: Re-attach yarn to the bottom of the sleeve opening in the first unworked st with a sl st and ch1 (make sure this ch1 is loose as we will be ending the row with a sl st into this ch1), *dc in next st, sl st in next* rep * * around until the last st, 1dc, sl st into ch1. You should have 56(56, 64, 64, 72, 72, 76) sts around.

Round 2: ch3, dc around. Sl st into the top of the ch3. [56(56, 64, 64, 72, 72, 76) sts]

Round 3: ch1, *dc in next st, sl st in next* rep * * around until the last st, 1dc, sl st into ch1.

Round 4 - Round 41: rep Rows 2 - 3

Try your cardigan on and check the length of the sleeve. It should reach to just after your wrist. If you need to add a couple more rounds, do so now. Make sure you end on an odd round (dc/sl st round).

Round 42: ch2 (does not count as a st) starting in the same st, dc2tog around, sl st into the 1st dc2tog. [28(28, 32, 32, 36, 36, 38) sts]

Round 43: ch1, *dc in next st, sl st in next* rep * * around until the last st, 1dc, sl st into ch1. [28(28, 32, 32, 36, 36, 38) sts]

Do Not FO

Cuff:

ch 7

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, 5 sc down ch, sl st in the next 2 sts on the sleeve. Turn. 6sts

Row 2: ch1, 6 scblo back up. Turn.

Row 3: ch1, 6 scblo back down, sl st in the next 2 sts on the sleeve. Turn.

Rep Rows 2 - 3 around the cuff until you come back around to the start. Seam the 2 sides of the cuff together. See notes for more info

FO

Rep from Sleeve for the opposite side.

Collar:

With 4.5mm hook and the RS facing up, re-attach yarn to the bottom of the right side of the cardigan with a sl st. (Right side when wearing, left side when looking at it). 

Ch 7

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, 5sc down ch, sl st in the next 2 sts on the collar. Turn. [6 sts]

Row 2: ch1, 6 scblo back up. Turn.

Row 3: ch1, 6scblo back down, sl st in the next 2 sts on the collar. Turn.

Rep Rows 2 - 3 around the collar until you reach the bottom of the other side. Sl st into the last st.

FO

Weave in ends and block cardigan to measurements again if desired.

Happy Creating!

IF YOU LIKED THIS PATTERN, PLEASE SUPPORT ME ON PATREON OR BUY ME A COFFEE!

I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #olivethiscardigan

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

FOLLOW ME ON SOCIAL MEDIA

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Hi! I’m Rachel.

I’m a quirky world traveller, avid knitter, crochet lover, pattern maker, and all around nerd! I spend a lot of time clowning around, and I often have the goofiest smile on my face. This website is the landing place for my new patterns, random thoughts, and general craziness. I hope you enjoy my randomness and my yarnie goodness!

You Might Also Like:

It’s been a weird summer here this year. I don’t think we’ve gotten above 83ºF/28ºC so that’s been nice! Weird. But, nice.This is a the first year we’ve actually had central air conditioning in our house, and it’s looking like we might not even need it this year! Wait, I know, I know, I shouldn’t have said anything! Now I’ve done it :)

But, anyway, another great thing for this month is IT’S MY BIRTHDAY MONTH! Yup! How exciting! We don’t have anything planned for it, though. I’m just gonna take it easy and enjoy making slowly this month. As my present to myself, I’ve moved all my July deadlines into August! Taking all the stress out of the month. That’s all that’s happening here! How is July treating you?

ABOUT THIS Design:

So about this cute knit top! This is the Playful Breeze Tee. It is a gorgeous drop shoulder t-shirt made with a light weight yarn to create a gorgeously draping tee. This fabric is perfect for the warmer months, as it’s airy and breathes well!

The lace on this top is made with both the Left and Right leaning Turkish Rib stitch. This stitch creates a lovely open weave lattice like lace. It gives the tee such a great geometric look!

Knit almost completely in the round, and only knit flat to separate the front and back sections for the sleeve openings, this top is created with almost no seams. So, if you aren’t a huge fan of seams, this tee is definitely for you! The only seams on the entire garment are at the shoulders. And, this section is a garter stitch, which is one of the easiest types of stitches to seam with the mattress stitch!

The yarn used for the my Playful Breeze Tee is a Light DK weight 3 yarn. You can also use a Sport weight 2 yarn with the larger needles to make a much lighter, more airy tee. But, make sure you do a gauge swatch to check that the yarn you choose meets gauge before you start!

THANK YOU! to all my wonderful testers!

Wiwik, Sandra, Robyn, Shannon, Laura, and Ann

I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #playfulbreezetee

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

FOLLOW ME ON SOCIAL MEDIA

Facebook: Ravin Sekai Designs
Ravelry: RavinSekai
Etsy: Ravin Sekai Designs
Instagram: @ravinsekaidesigns
Pinterest: Ravin Sekai Designs
Patreon: Ravin Sekai Designs

WHAT YOU NEED:

Needles: Size 4mm or size needed to obtain gauge

Yarn: DK Weight 3 yarn. Approx 800(920, 1000, 1250, 1300, 1450, 1550) yards

Gauge: 20 st/39 rows = 4” in garter, 20 st/26 rows = 4” in Right Slanting Turkish RIb

Other: stitch markers, scissors, waste yarn or stitch holders

Suggested Bust Measurements: Measurements will be in inches throughout. Check out the chart on pg. 4 for measurements in cm. 

S: 32”-35”, M: 36”-39”, L: 40”-43”, XL: 44”-47”, 2XL: 48”-51”, 3XL: 52”-55”,  4XL: 56”-59”

Finished Garment Sizing: Size is after blocking. Worn with 10” - 13” of positive ease. S: bust - 45“ x Length - 21.5“, M: bust - 49“ x Length - 21.5“, L: bust - 53“ x Length - 22.5“, XL: bust - 57“ x Length - 23“, 2XL: bust - 61“ x Length - 23.5“, 3XL: bust - 65“ x Length - 24“, 4XL: bust - 69“ x Length - 25“

Model: model is 4’11” tall, 35” bust, 28” waist, 39” hips wearing size small, with 10” positive ease in bust.

ABBREVIATIONS:

CO: cast on. I used the long tail CO.
RS: right side
WS: wrong side
St/sts: stitch/stitches
Rep: repeat
Cont: continue
K: knit
P: purl
YO: yarn over
Ssk: slip, slip, knit. It is a left leaning decrease on the RS. slip the first stitch as if to knit onto right-hand needles, slip the second stitch as if to knit, then slide the left-hand needle into the front part of both stitches and knit them together.
K2tog: knit two together
BO: bind off. Make sure you bind off loosely so that the ribbing on the sleeves and neckline have a good stretch.

Notes:

• Pattern is written as follows: S(M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL)

• Top is knit bottom up, in the round until you separate the front and back for the sleeves. Then, the front and back are knit flat independently. The shoulders are seamed and the sleeves are knit directly onto the body in the round.

• Gauge: Because the Turkish Rib portion of the top is knit in the round, it would be good for you to do that gauge swatch in the round as well. Cast on at least 42 sts and join to knit in the round. Then, follow the directions on pg. 5 for Rounds 1-26 of the Right Slanting Turkish Rib. That should give you an accurate swatch to block and measure for the top.

• Blocking: This top requires blocking, as the garter st can scrunch up tight, though it is quite stretchy. Blocking will stretch the top garter section out to the correct measurements. If you do not block, the top section will most likely be too short for the sleeve openings.

• Length: If you would like a longer top, continue knitting in pattern until you reach the length you desire. Then start the separation for the sleeve openings.

• Sleeves: If you would like a larger sleeve opening, add rows to this section. Make sure you add the same amount of rows to the front as you do on the back. Add the rows at the beginning of the front section before following any other directions for that section. (remember, blocking will stretch that section, so don’t add too many rows!).

• Neckline Decreases: I made my neckline decreases 3 stitches in from the edge, because I don’t like them right on the edge. On the left side, I ssk on both the RS and WS (making a left leaning decrease), and I k2tog on both the RS and WS on the right side of the neckline (making right leaning decreases).

THE PATTERN:

For the free pattern of this design please continue on this page. Please consider supporting me by purchasing the 100% ad-free PDF with all extras/charts for this pattern on my Ravelry or ETSY pages. Or consider joining my Patreon for member perks.

Bottom Band:

w/ 4mm needles CO 225(245, 265, 285, 305, 325, 345) sts connect to knit in the round
Round 1: place a sm. *k1, p1, k1, p2* rep * * around to sm.
Round 2: *k3, p2* rep * * around
Round 3 - Round 13: rep Rounds 1 - 2
Round 14: *k3, p2* rep * * around until the last st, k1fb. You will now have 226(246, 266, 286, 306, 326, 346) sts
Round 15: k all sts

Body:

Right Slanting Turkish Rib [26(24, 24, 24, 25, 25, 25) rounds total]:
Round 1 - Round 26(24, 24, 24, 25, 25, 25): *yo, k2tog*, rep * * around

Garter Stitch [7 rounds total]:
Round 27(25, 25, 25, 26, 26, 26): k all sts
Round 28(26, 26, 26, 27, 27, 27): p all sts
Round 29(27, 27, 27, 28, 28, 28) - Round 32(30, 30, 30, 31, 31, 31): rep Rounds 1 - 2 of garter stitch
Round 33(31, 31, 31, 32, 32, 32): k all sts

Left Slanting Turkish Rib [25(24, 24, 24, 24, 24, 24) rounds total]:
Round 34(32, 32, 32, 33, 33, 33) - Round 58(55, 55, 55, 56, 56, 56): *ssk, yo*, rep * * around

Garter Stitch [7 rounds total]:
Round 59(56, 56, 56, 57, 57, 57): k all sts
Round 60(57, 57, 57, 58, 58, 58): p all sts
Round 61(58, 58, 58, 59, 59, 59) - Round 64(61, 61, 61, 62, 62, 62): rep Rounds 1 - 2 of garter stitch
Round 65(62, 62, 62, 63, 63, 63): k all sts

Right Slanting Turkish Rib #2: [25(24, 24, 24, 25, 25, 25) rounds total]:
Round 66(63, 63, 63, 64, 64, 64) - Round 90(86, 86, 86, 88, 88, 88): *yo, k2tog*, rep * * around

Separating the Front and Back:

Now we will stop working in the round and instead work back and forth in rows to separate the back and front for the sleeve openings. If you would like a larger sleeve opening, add rows to the beginning of these sections. We will also be BO some stitches and making decreases on the front to create the neckline. See Notes for Sleeves and Neckline on pg. 3

Small:

Back:

Row 91: k 113 sts, slip the next 113 sts onto waste yarn or a stitch holder.

Row 92 - Row 149: k all sts.

BO

Front:

Put the stitches from the waste yarn back on your needles.

Row 91 (RS) - Row 102: with the RS facing you, reattach the yarn and k all sts

Left Side:

Row 103 (RS): k49, BO 15, k49 (leave the sts from the right side of the neckline on needles to be worked after the left side is finished)

Row 104: k49

Row 105 - Row 149:  Starting with a dec on Row 105, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 3 rows 15 times.

BO

Right Side:

Row 104(WS): with the WS facing you, reattach yarn and k49

Row 105 - Row 149:  Starting with a dec on Row 105, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 3 rows 15 times. Then, knit straight.

BO

Go to Blocking

Medium:

Back:

Row 87: k 123 sts, slip the next 123 sts onto waste yarn or a stitch holder.

Row 88 - Row 149: k all sts.

BO

Front:

Put the stitches from the waste yarn back on your needles.

Row 87 (RS) - Row 102: with the RS facing you, reattach the yarn and k all sts

Left Side:

Row 103 (RS): k54, BO 15, k54 (leave the sts from the right side of the neckline on needles to be worked after the left side is finished)

Row 104: k54

Row 105 - Row 149:  Starting with a dec on Row 105, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 3 rows 15 times.

BO

Right Side:

Row 104(WS): with the WS facing you, reattach yarn and k54

Row 105 - Row 149: Starting with a dec on Row 105, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of top) every 3 rows 15 times. Then, knit straight.

BO

Go to Blocking

Large:

Back:

Row 87: k 133 sts, slip the next 133 sts onto waste yarn or a stitch holder.

Row 88 - Row 155: k all sts.

BO

Front:

Put the stitches from the waste yarn back on your needles.

Row 87 (RS) - Row 108: with the RS facing you, reattach the yarn and k all sts

Left Side:

Row 109 (RS): k59, BO 15, k59 (leave the sts from the right side of the neckline on needles to be worked after the left side is finished)

Row 110: k59

Row 111 - Row 155:  Starting with a dec on Row 111, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 3 rows 15 times.

BO

Right Side:

Row 110 (WS): with the WS facing you, reattach the yarn and k59

Row 111 - Row 155:  Starting with a dec on Row 111, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 3 rows 15 times. Then, knit straight.

BO

Go to Blocking

XL:

Back:

Row 87: k 143 sts, slip the next 143 sts onto waste yarn or a stitch holder.

Row 88 - Row 159: k all sts.

BO

Front:

Put the stitches from the waste yarn back on your needles.

Row 87 (RS) - Row 110: with the RS facing you, reattach the yarn and k all sts

Left Side:

Row 111 (RS): k63, BO 17, k63 (leave the sts from the right side of the neckline on needles to be worked after the left side is finished)

Row 112: k63

Row 113 - Row 151: Starting with a dec on Row 113, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 3 rows 13 times.

Row 152 - Row 159: Starting the next dec on Row 152, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 4 rows 2 times.

BO

Right Side:

Row 112 (WS): with the WS facing you, reattach the yarn and k63

Row 113 - Row 151: Starting with a dec on Row 113, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 3 rows 13 times.

Row 152 - Row 159: Starting the next dec on Row 152, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 4 rows 2 times. Then, knit straight.

BO

Go to Blocking

2XL:

Back:

Row 89: k 153 sts, slip the next 153 sts onto waste yarn or a stitch holder.

Row 90 - Row 167: k all sts.

BO

Front:

Put the stitches from the waste yarn back on your needles.

Row 89 (RS) - Row 118: with the RS facing you, reattach the yarn and k all sts

Left Side:

Row 119 (RS): k68, BO 17, k68 (leave the sts from the right side of the neckline on needles to be worked after the left side is finished)

Row 120: k68

Row 121 - Row 159: Starting with a dec on Row 121, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 3 rows 13 times.

Row 160 - Row 167: Starting the next dec on Row 160, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 4 rows 2 times.

BO

Right Side:

Row 120 (WS): with the WS facing you, reattach the yarn and k68

Row 121 - Row 159: Starting with a dec on Row 121, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 3 rows 13 times.

Row 160 - Row 167: Starting the next dec on Row 160, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 4 rows 2 times. Then, knit straight.

BO

Go to Blocking

3XL:

Back:

Row 89: k 163 sts, slip the next 163 sts onto waste yarn or a stitch holder.

Row 90 - Row 171: k all sts.

BO

Front:

Put the stitches from the waste yarn back on your needles.

Row 89 (RS) - Row 118: with the RS facing you, reattach the yarn and k all sts

Left Side:

Row 119 (RS): k72, BO 19, k 72 (leave the sts from the right side of the neckline on needles to be worked after the left side is finished)

Row 120: k72

Row 121 - Row 147: Starting with a dec on Row 121, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 3 rows 9 times.

Row 148 - Row 171: Starting the next dec on Row 148, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 4 Rows 6 times.

BO

Right Side:

Row 120 (WS): with the WS facing you, reattach the yarn and k72

Row 121 - Row 147: Starting with a dec on Row 121, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 3 rows 9 times.

Row 148 - Row 171: Starting the next dec on Row 131, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 4 Rows 6 times. Then, knit straight.

BO

Go to Blocking

4XL:

Back:

Row 89: k 173 sts, slip the next 173 sts onto waste yarn or a stitch holder.

Row 90 - Row 177: k all sts.

BO

Front:

Put the stitches from the waste yarn back on your needles.

Row 89 (RS) - Row 120: with the RS facing you, reattach the yarn and k all sts

Left Side:

Row 121 (RS): k77, BO 19, k77 (leave the sts from the right side of the neckline on needles to be worked after the left side is finished)

Row 122: k77

Row 123 - Row 137: Starting with a dec on Row 123, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 3 rows 5 times.

Row 138 - Row 177: Starting the next dec on Row 138, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 4 rows 10 times.

BO

Right Side:

Row 122 (WS): with the WS facing you, reattach the yarn and k77

Row 123 - Row 137: Starting with a dec on Row 123, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 3 rows 5 times.

Row 138 - Row 177: Starting the next dec on Row 138, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 4 rows 10 times. Then, knit straight.

BO

Go to Blocking

Blocking All Sizes:

Block the top to the measurements in the schematic. Seam the shoulders with the mattress stitch. 

Sleeves:

Round 1: Starting at the bottom of the sleeve in the armpit area, reattach yarn and pick up and knit 60(65, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90) sts.

Round 2: place a sm. *k3, p2* rep * * around to sm.

Round 3: *k1, p1, k1, p2* rep * * around

Round 4 - Round 7: rep Rounds 2 - 3

BO in pattern.

Rep for other sleeve.

Collar:

Round 1: Starting at the back of the neckline, reattach yarn and pick up and knit stitches in a multiple of 5 sts around the collar.

Round 2: place a sm. *k3, p2* rep * * around to sm.

Round 3: *k1, p1, k1, p2* rep * * around

Round 4: *k3, p2* rep * * around to sm.

BO knitwise.

Block garment to measurements again if you’d like I blocked mine twice just to make sure the collar and sleeves sit well.

Happy Creating!

IF YOU LIKED THIS PATTERN, PLEASE SUPPORT ME ON PATREON OR BUY ME A COFFEE!

I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #playfulbreezetee

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

FOLLOW ME ON SOCIAL MEDIA

Facebook: Ravin Sekai Designs
Ravelry: RavinSekai
Etsy: Ravin Sekai Designs
Instagram: @ravinsekaidesigns
Pinterest: Ravin Sekai Designs
Patreon: Ravin Sekai Designs

Hi! I’m Rachel.

I’m a quirky world traveller, avid knitter, crochet lover, pattern maker, and all around nerd! I spend a lot of time clowning around, and I often have the goofiest smile on my face. This website is the landing place for my new patterns, random thoughts, and general craziness. I hope you enjoy my randomness and my yarnie goodness!

You Might Also Like:

HAPPY PRIDE MONTH!!

This month especially I wanted to show my PRIDE, but I also wanted to make something that can represent Pride all year round! What better to do that than a cute bag that you can use forever!

I’m really excited about this design, because it can be customized however YOU want it. Since there’s not one way for you to show your Pride, it’s good that you can go wild and express yourself however you need. I’m super excited to show mine off this year.

Are you doing anything special this year for Pride?

ABOUT THIS Design:

Welcome to the Serendipity Day bag! This is a wonderful little bag that is perfect for a day out and about. I purposefully designed this bag for Pride Month, but you don’t need to limit yourself to one month to show your Pride! 

Pride is the promotion of the self-affirmation, dignity, equality, and increased visibility of lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, and all others who fall under the queer umbrella (LGBTQ+). Pride, as opposed to shame and social stigma, is the predominant outlook that bolsters most LGBTQ+ rights movements. (Read more about pride here.) This bag is my small contribution to promoting visibility and Pride in who you are!

Also, please consider donating to The Trevor Project to help and support LGBTQ+ youth.

This bag is made with 4 granny squares connected with the Continuous Flat Braid Join, then the bottom and top are crocheted in rounds. The straps are made with the Thermal stitch, which makes a great sturdy fabric that doesn’t over stretch. Pair that with d-ring clips, and you can turn the bag into 3 different styles; a handbag, a sling bag, and a backpack. 

I chose to use the traditional ROYGBIV rainbow (Red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and purple). But you can use any colors you like to make your bag. Check out some of the ideas below on how you can make your flag into squares! 

For the sample bag, I used Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK. This is a weight 3, 100% cotton, DK yarn. I chose cotton because it’s a good sturdy fabric; however, you can make this bag with any weight 3 or 4 yarn that you would like. If you use a 4mm hook and weight 4 yarn, be aware it will make a bit larger bag, so make sure you check your gauge to have an idea of how it will turn out. Though, because it is a bag, gauge isn’t terribly important.

THANK YOU! to all my wonderful testers!

Kat and Lisa

I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #serendipitydaybag

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

FOLLOW ME ON SOCIAL MEDIA

Facebook: Ravin Sekai Designs
Ravelry: RavinSekai
Etsy: Ravin Sekai Designs
Instagram: @ravinsekaidesigns
Pinterest: Ravin Sekai Designs
Patreon: Ravin Sekai Designs

WHAT YOU NEED:

Hook Size: 4 mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge

Yarn: weight 3 or 4 cotton yarn. Sample crocheted in Paintbox Yarns Cotton weight 3 yarn. 305 yards MC, 240 yards other colors. (I had 6 colors other than the cream on my bag, so 40 yards each color was used). 545 yards total.

Other: Bag hardware (D-rings with at least 1” inside measurement, strap/keychain clips), stitch markers, measuring tape.

Gauge: 19sts/ 13rows = 4” in hdc. Each granny square is 5” x5” after blocking. Gauge is not super important for this project.

Finished Bag Size: 12” tall x 9” wide when laid flat.

ABBREVIATIONS:

Abbreviations in US terms

Ch: chain

MC, C1, C2, etc.: main color, Color 1, Color 2, etc.

Pm: place marker

Sm: stitch marker

Sl st: slip stitch

Rep: repeat

CSSC: Cross Stitch/yarn under crochet (yu). Insert your hook as you would for a normal sc, yu and bring through, finish your stitch like you would a normal sc.

Sc: single crochet

Scblo: single crochet in the back loop only

Yo: yarn over

Pf st: puff stitch, [YO, insert hook into st, YO, pull through just the st] rep 4 times in the same st (9 loops on hook), YO, pull through 8 loops, YO, pull through the last 2 loops. This makes a 9 loop puff. 

Hdc: half double crochet

Dc: double crochet

Dec: invisible decrease, CSSC 2 together through the front loop only

BOR: beginning of row

Hdc3lo: hdc in the third loop only. Skip the front and back loops of the st you are working and hdc in the loop behind them. (See notes)

Notes:

• For the sample, I used weight 3 yarn, but you can use weight 4 as well. Just be aware that your bag may be larger in size, and your granny squares may be a bit poofier.

• Ch3s on granny squares count as 1dc. Ch2 on the top does not count as a hdc.

• On the top portion, the first stitches when you join rounds (seams) are staggered in order to prevent them from spiralling around the top as you work. We do this by skipping the first st of the row every other row, and then finishing it at the end of the row. A great video to show this method by Wilma Westenberg of Wilmade and her written instructions can be found here on her website. https:// wilmade.com/crochet-a-straight-seam-joined-rounds/

• Crocheting in the 3rd loop of a hdc stitch pushes the top of the stitch forward so that the front and back loops of your stitch, which normally sit at the top are now visible at the front of the stitch. It creates a horizontal ridge of “v” shapes. A good video can be found here at Heart Hook Home: https://youtu.be/9dHzmZ03MQA

• When you sl st at the end of a round, pull the sl st through the work from the front to the back. This creates a less noticeable seam.

• Here is a video on how to do the thermal stitch for the strap by Heart Hook Home: https://youtu.be/_NeKe_vhToE

THE PATTERN:

For the free pattern of this design please continue on this page. Please consider supporting me by purchasing the 100% ad-free PDF with all charts, picture tutorials, and extras for this pattern on my Ravelry or ETSY pages. Or consider joining my Patreon for member perks.

The Granny Square [make 4]

I made my granny squares with traditional pride rainbow colors, one color each row. Then, I alternated the color I started with in the center to create the look you see in the sample. So, my first square was C1-C6, then my second square started with C6, then C1-C5. But, you can do your squares however you would like. Here are a few samples of how to turn your PRIDE Flag into squares.

With 4mm hook, Ch4, sl st in 1st chain (makes a circle)

Row 1: ch 7, *3dc in center of circle, ch4* rep * * twice more, 2dc in circle, sl st in ch3 of starting ch7.

Row 2: ch3, *[pf st, ch4, pf st] all in ch4 below, 3dc*, rep * * twice more, [pf st, ch4, pf st] in final ch4, 2dc, sl st in top of starting ch3.

Row 3: ch3, 1dc, *[pf st, ch4, pf st] all in ch4, 5dc* rep * * twice more, [pf st, ch4, pf st] in final ch4, 3dc, sl st in top of starting ch3.

Row 4: ch3, 2dc, *[pf st, ch4, pf st] all in ch4, 7dc* rep * * twice more, [pf st, ch4, pf st] in final ch4, 4dc, sl st in top of starting ch3.

Row 5: ch3, 3dc, *[pf st, ch4, pf st] all in ch4, 9dc* rep * * twice more, [pf st, ch4, pf st] in final ch4, 5dc, sl st in top of starting ch3.

Row 6: ch3, 4dc, *[pf st, ch4, pf st] all in ch4, 11dc* rep * * twice more, [pf st, ch4, pf st] in final ch4, 6dc, sl st in top of starting ch3.

FO

Block Squares to approx 5”x5”

Join Granny Squares With Continuous Flat Braid:

Bottom:

The bottom of the bag will be made in continuous rounds.

Round 1: With MC, reattach yarn with sl st to the center loop between squares (the loop made by connecting 2 ch5s at the corner of the joined squares), 1 sc in same space (Pm in the 1st st, which is now your BOR), 2 sc in ch5 space, [*1 sc in next sc, 2sc in ch2 space, 1 sc in next sc, 1sc in next ch 2 space* rep * * 2 more times, 1sc in next sc, 2sc in ch2 space, 1sc in the next sc, 2 sc in ch5 space, 1 sc in center loop, 2 sc in next ch5 space] rep [ ] around until the last square. 2 sc in ch 5 space.  [96 total sts]

Round 2 - Round 7: CSSC around for 6 rounds

Round 8: CSSC blo around

Round 9: (14 CSSC, dec) x6 [90 sts]

Round 10: (13 CSSC, dec) x6 [84 sts]

Round 11: (12 CSSC, dec) x6 [78 sts]

Round 12: (11 CSSC, dec) x6 [72 sts]

Round 13: (10 CSSC, dec) x6 [66 sts]

Round 14: (9 CSSC, dec) x6 [60 sts]

Round 15: (8 CSSC, dec) x6 [54 sts]

Round 16: (7 CSSC, dec) x6 [48 sts]

Round 17: (6 CSSC, dec) x6 [42 sts]

Round 18: (5 CSSC, dec) x6 [36sts]

Round 19: (4 CSSC, dec) x6 [30 sts]

Round 20: (3 CSSC, dec) x6 [24 sts]

Round 21: (2 CSSC, dec) x6 [18 sts]

Round 22: (1 CSSC, dec) x6 [12 sts]

Round 23: (dec) x6 [6 sts]

FO

Leave a yarn tail and weave it through the front loop of the 6 remaining sts, then pull tight to close the hole. Weave the tail through a few more times to secure it.

Top:

Round 1: W/ MC, rep Round 1 of the bottom around the top of the bag, sl st into the 1st sc of the round.  [96 total sts]

Round 2: ch2, hdc into the same st as the sl st, hdc around, sl st into 1st st of round [96 sts]

Round 3: ch1, sk the 1st st where you just made the sl st and start in the second st, hdc around, then make the last 1hdc in the st that we skipped at the beginning of the row by working over the chain, sl st into 1st st of the round. 

Round 4 - Round 13: rep Row 2 - Row 3

Round 14: ch2, following the same starting/ending join directions as above, *2dc, ch1, sk1* rep * * around.

Round 15: change to C1, hdc around following the same join directions as before. [96 total sts]

Round 16 - Round 20: changing color each row, ch1, hdc3lo around (see notes if needed). Join in the same method as before.

Round 21: W/ MC, ch1, hdc3lo around. Join in the same method as before.

FO and weave in ends

Strap:

The strap is about 1.25” wide, and I made my strap 50” long as that’s the perfect length for straps for my height. This allows for both the backpack version and the handbag version. It is a bit long for a side bag, but it’s easy enough to draw the strap through a loop and re-hook it into the strap to make it shorter. See notes for a video on how to make the Thermal St.

Row 1: 7sc to clip hardware. Turn.

Row 2: ch1, 7scblo only. Turn.

Row 3: ch1, 7scblo of this row and the front loop of the previous row (the loop you did not use of the previous row) to the end of the row. Turn.

Row 4 - Until preferred length: rep Row 3

Last Row: Going around the 2nd clip hardware for the other side of the bag, sc through both loops of this row and the front loop of the previous row. 

FO with a tail. Use the tail to sew down the sc so that this side looks like the other.

To make the loop to hook your clasp to wear the bag as a cross body, first figure out where the loop should be by drawing the strap through the d-ring on one side and checking where you’d like the bag to sit. Place a sm in that spot. Then, attach the yarn at that sm with a sl st to the side and ch7. Sl st to the opposite side. Ch1 and sc back across the ch. FO with a sl st into the same spot.

Draw String:

1. Take a long strand of each color (at least 50”) and holding the ends together, fasten the end to something sturdy. Divide the strands into 2 and twist the 2 hanks together around each other like you are braiding them very tight, until they start to twist back on themselves and you have about 42” of cord. Tie a knot on both ends making sure that your knot is in the twisted section to make sure it doesn’t completely untwist. The cord will untwist a bit into a nice drawstring.

2. Fold your bag so that one square is centered at the front, and the two side squares are folded in half like in picture 2. Using something with a straight edge, figure out which set of dc are in the center. PM.

3. Starting on one side, weave the cord in and out of the holes. Your drawstring should go in on one side of the sm and out the other.

D-Ring Placement:

Back Ring:

Fold your bag so that one square is centered at the back, and the two side squares are folded in half. Using a ruler, center the D-ring with the center of the granny square and sew on.

Side Rings:

On the front side, count 8 sets of dc both left and right from the center set and sew the a d-ring under the 8th set of dc on each side.

Happy Creating!

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I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

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Hi! I’m Rachel.

I’m a quirky world traveller, avid knitter, crochet lover, pattern maker, and all around nerd! I spend a lot of time clowning around, and I often have the goofiest smile on my face. This website is the landing place for my new patterns, random thoughts, and general craziness. I hope you enjoy my randomness and my yarnie goodness!

You Might Also Like:

It’s just starting to get warm here in Montreal, and I am so excited! My husband and I just recently moved into a new complex, and we found a huge nature reserve (huge for being in the city) that is just a 20 minute walk from our house. I’m so happy that it’s there! The other day, we took a walk, and there was an entire family of foxes playing in the field! Mommy Fox, Daddy Fox, and 3 kits! It was really fun and relaxing to watch them frolic around for awhile.

I hope the start of your summer is going well, too! Now, let’s get to the pattern!

ABOUT THIS Design:

This is the Sweet Summer Tee, and the second installation in my Sweet Summer Collection. It is the perfect top to throw over a cute summer dress for a more complete look or to wear with a pair of shorts and a tank. You could even wear it over a bathing suit as a cover up top. Made with lightweight yarn, and with an open lacework pattern, this tee will be perfect on those hot hot summer days. 

This adorable lace granny square t-shirt is made with the Dogwood Flower granny square. It’s a simple motif that creates such a beautiful pattern. Utilizing the “join as you go” method of crochet, it creates beautiful openwork lace without chunky seams.

The construction of this top makes it easy to adjust and make it exactly how you’d like to wear it. You can add length to the top by connecting full or half squares to the bottom, or you can make the top oversized by adding squares to the sides.

The sample is crocheted with Paintbox Yarns Baby DK which is a weight 3 acrylic yarn. Because of the openness of the lace, this top can be made with a variety of types of a weight 3 yarn.

THANK YOU! to all my wonderful testers!

Hailey, Sharon, Amanda, Lori, Chantel, Claudia, Nancy, Shannon, Teresa, and Lilli

I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #sweetsummertee

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

FOLLOW ME ON SOCIAL MEDIA

Facebook: Ravin Sekai Designs
Ravelry: RavinSekai
Etsy: Ravin Sekai Designs
Instagram: @ravinsekaidesigns
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Patreon: Ravin Sekai Designs

WHAT YOU NEED:

Hook Size: 4mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge

Yarn: Light/DK weight 3 yarn. Sample crocheted in Paintbox Yarns Baby DK. 612(685, 830, 907, 1034, 1114, 1200) yards

Gauge: Each full granny square is 4.5” x 4.5” (11.5cm x 11.5cm) Gauge is after blocking.

Suggested Bust Measurements: Measurements will be in inches throughout. Check out the chart on pg.3 for measurements in cm.

S: 32”-35”, M: 36”-39”, L: 40”-43”, XL: 44”-47”, 2XL: 48”-51”, 3XL: 52”-55”,  4XL: 56”-59”

Finished Garment Sizing: Size is after blocking. Worn with 10” - 16” of positive ease. S: bust - 45“ x Length - 18“, M: bust - 49.5“ x Length - 18“, L: bust - 54“ x Length -20.25 “, XL: bust - 58.5“ x Length - 20.25“, 2XL: bust - 63“ x Length - 22.5“, 3XL: bust - 67.5“ x Length - 22.5“, 4XL: bust - 72“ x Length - 22.5“

Model: model is 4’11” tall, 35” bust, 28” waist, 39” hips wearing size small, with 10” positive ease in bust.

ABBREVIATIONS:

Abbreviations in US terms
Ch: chain
Sl st: slip stitch
Hdc: half double crochet
Dc: double crochet
Rep: repeat
Sk: skip
Cont.: continue
Dc2tog: double crochet 2 sts together.
Dc3tog: double crochet 3 sts together.
Dc5tog: double crochet 5 sts together.
Dc6tog: double crochet 6 sts together.
FO: fasten off
S1, S2, S3, S4: Square 1, 2, 3, and 4 respectively
Sm: Stitch Marker

Notes:

• Directions: Where there are different numbers of rows/sts for each size, pattern is written: S(M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL)

• Blocking: It is critical that you block this top. The Dogwood Flower granny square tends to be a bit scrunched after crocheting. Blocking will open the stitches up and give each square the definition it needs to look its best.

• Length: You can make your top longer if needed. Each square is 4.5” long and each half square is 2.25” long. To add length, add the same number of squares/half squares onto each end of the tee. I recommend doing this after connecting all the required squares to make sure you keep your neckline centered.

• Connecting: Squares are connected on round 3 using a join-as-you-go method shown below. Half granny squares are connected in the same manner as full granny squares, except I would sl st the points of the half flower petals together to prevent gapping.

• Side Panels: For the side panel lace, you need a multiple of 4 +2 sts. If you make your top longer by adding squares, make sure you maintain that multiple of 4 +2 sc along the sides.

THE PATTERN:

For the free pattern of this design please continue on this page. Please consider supporting me by purchasing the 100% ad-free PDF with all extras/charts for this pattern on my Ravelry or ETSY pages. Or consider joining my Patreon for member perks.

For this garment, you are going to attach the squares as you make them (join as you go method) according to the diagram below, leaving the squares at the thick red line unconnected to create the neckline. 2XL/3XL/4XL will use half granny squares at the bottom of the shirt (shown in gray).

Granny Squares:

The Full Granny:
Ch10, sl st in 1st ch (makes a circle)

Row 1: ch3(counts as dc), 4dc into circle, *ch7, 5dc into circle* rep * * twice more, ch7, sl st into top of starting ch3.

Row 2: ch3(counts as dc), 1dc in next dc, 2dc in next (center) dc, 1dc in each next 2 dc, *ch2, 3dc in ch7 below, ch5, 3dc in ch7 again, ch2, 1dc in each next 2 dc, 2dc in center dc, 1dc in each next 2 dc* rep * * twice more, ch2, 3dc in ch7 below, ch5, 3dc in ch7 again, ch2, sl st into starting ch3.

Row 3: ch2(counts as dc), dc5tog, *ch5, 1dc in center dc of 3 dc below, ch3, [2dc, ch2, 2dc] all in ch 5 below, ch3, 1dc in center dc of 3 dc below, ch5, dc6tog* rep * * twice more, ch5, 1dc in center of 3 dc below, ch3, [2dc, ch2, 2dc] all in ch5 below, ch3, 1 dc in center dc of 3 dc below, ch5, sl st into starting ch2.

FO

The Half Granny:

Ch5 sl st in 1st ch (makes a circle)

Row 1: ch3(counts as dc), dc in circle, ch7, 5dc into circle, ch7, 2dc in circle, turn.

Row 2: ch3(counts as dc), dc in same st, dc in next, ch2, 3dc in ch7 below, ch5, 3dc in ch7 again, ch2, 1dc in each next 2 dc, 2dc all in center dc, 1dc in each next 2 dc, ch2, 3dc in ch7 below, ch5, 3dc in ch7 again, ch2, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in top of ch3 below, turn.

Row 3: ch2(counts as dc), dc2tog, ch5, 1dc in center dc of 3 dc below, ch3, [2dc, ch2, 2dc] all in ch 5 below, ch3, 1dc in center dc of 3 dc below, ch5, dc6tog, ch5, 1dc in center dc of 3 dc below, ch3, [2dc, ch2, 2dc] all in ch 5 below, ch3, 1dc in center dc of 3 dc below, ch5, dc3tog.

FO

How to Connect Granny Squares:

Note: Make sure you are not twisting your squares as you connect and you connect the right side of each square facing the same direction.

Square 1: Crochet the first granny square in full.

Square 2 - Square 4(4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 6): 

Row 1 - Row 2: Make your next square through Row 2

Row 3: ch2, dc5tog, ch3, remove loop from hook, insert hook in ch5 space (#1) of S1 and pull loop through, ch2, 1dc in center dc of the 3 dc below, ch3, 2dc in ch5 below, ch1, remove loop from hook, insert hook in ch2 space (#2) of S1 and pull loop through, ch1, 2dc in ch5 below, cont. Row 3 until last corner, cont. directions.

Square 2 - Square 4(4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 6) cont.: 

Row 3 cont: 2dc in ch5 below, ch1, remove loop from hook, insert hook in ch2 space (#3) of S1 and pull loop through, ch1, 2dc in ch5 below, ch3, dc in center dc of 3 dc below, ch3, remove loop from hook, insert hook in ch5 space (#4) of S1 and pull loop through, ch2, sl st into top of dc5tog. 

FO

Square 5(5, 5, 5, 7, 7, 7) and all right-most squares:

Row 1 - Row 2: Make your next square through Row 2

Row 3: ch2, dc5tog, ch3, remove loop from hook, insert hook in ch5 space of S1 and pull loop through (#5), ch2, 1dc in center dc of 3 dc below, ch3, 2dc in ch5 below, ch1, remove loop from hook, insert hook in ch2 space of S2 directly across and pull loop through (#6), ch1, 2dc in ch5 below, cont. Row 3 from S2 to finish connecting square. 

FO

All Other Squares:

Row 1 - Row 2: Make your next square through Row 2

Row 3: rep directions from S5(5, 5, 5, 7, 7, 7) until you get to the last corner joining all 4 squares together, 2dc in ch5 below, ch1, remove loop from hook, insert hook in ch2 space of square directly across and pull loop through (#7), ch1, 2dc in ch5 below, finish Row 3 as you would S2 (#8). 

FO Continue connecting squares according to the chart above

Note: For sizes 2XL-4XL, Half granny squares are connected in the same manner as full granny squares. It is best to connect them last, and the tips of the half petals should be sl st together to prevent gapping.

Right Side All Sizes:

Lay the garment out w/ RS facing, and re-attach the yarn to the bottom right-hand corner with a sl st.

Row 1: ch1, 202(202, 202, 202, 226, 226, 226) sc evenly along the side of the garment. Turn. (Note: I put 25 sc in each full granny square, then spaced any extra sts out along the side. For the S-XL, I would put 1 extra st between between the 3rd and 4th square, and 1 between the 5th and 6th squares. I would suggest putting the 1 extra st between the 5th and 6th squares for the 2XL - 4XL.).

Row 2: ch3 (counts as 1 dc throughout), dc in next st, *ch2, sk2, 1 dc in each next 2 sts*, rep * * placing the last 2 dc in the last 2 sts of the row. Turn.

Row 3: ch4 (counts as 1 dc and ch1), 2dc in first ch2, *ch2, 2dc in next ch2*, rep * * until the last 2 sts, ch1, dc in turning ch from the previous row. Turn.

Side Seaming: (reference pictures 1 - 5 at the end)

Size S Only: 

Lay the top out and fold it in half so that it looks like a v-neck t-shirt. (1) Place a sm about 5.5” from the top of the shoulder in a ch space on either side of the garment. (2) Count your chain spaces from the bottom to make sure the sm is in the same place on both sides(3)

Row 4: ch3, dc in ch1, *ch2, 2 dc in ch2*, rep * * across, past your 1st sm, until you are placing 2dc in the space with your second sm, *ch1, remove hook from loop, place hook through the ch2 space on the other side of the top at the same place (4) and pull loop through, ch1, 2dc in next ch2 space*, rep * * placing the last 2 dc in last ch2, ch1, remove hook from loop, place hook through the ch4 space on the other side of the top and pull loop through, ch1, 1dc in the starting ch3 space of the row (5)

FO

Size M Only: 

Row 4: ch3, dc in ch1, *ch2, 2 dc in ch2*, rep * * across, placing the last 2dc in the ch4 space from the previous row. Turn.

Row 5: Rep Row 3

Lay the top out and fold it in half so that it looks like a v-neck t-shirt (1). Place sm 6” from the top of the shoulder in a ch space on either side of the garment. (2) Count your chain spaces from the bottom to make sure the sm is in the same place on both sides.(3)

Row 6:  ch3, dc in ch1, *ch2, 2 dc in ch2*, rep * * across, past your 1st sm, until you are placing 2dc in the space with your second sm, *ch1, remove hook from loop, place hook through the ch2 space on the other side of the top at the same place (4) and pull loop through, ch1, 2dc in next ch2 space*, rep * * placing the last 2 dc in last ch2, ch1, remove hook from loop, place hook through the ch4 space on the other side of the top and pull loop through, ch1, 1dc in the starting ch3 space of the row (5)

FO

Size L/XL Only:

Row 4: ch3, dc in ch1, *ch2, 2 dc in ch2*, rep * * across, placing the last 2dc in the ch4 space from the previous row. Turn.

Row 5 - Row 7(9) rep Rows 3 - 4

Lay the top out and fold it in half so that it looks like a v-neck t-shirt (1). Place sm 7(7.5)” from the top of the shoulder in a ch space on either side of the garment. (2) Count your chain spaces from the bottom to make sure the sm is in the same place on both sides. (3)

Row 8(10): ch3, dc in ch1, *ch2, 2 dc in ch2*, rep * * across, past your 1st sm, until you are placing 2dc in the space with your second sm, *ch1, remove hook from loop, place hook through the ch2 space on the other side of the top at the same place (4) and pull loop through, ch1, 2dc in next ch2 space*, rep * * placing the last 2 dc in last ch2, ch1, remove hook from loop, place hook through the ch4 space on the other side 

of the top and pull loop through, ch1, 1dc in the starting ch3 space of the row (5)

FO

Size 2XL Only: 

Lay the top out and fold it in half so that it looks like a v-neck t-shirt (1). Place sm 8” from the top of the shoulder in a ch space on either side of the garment. (2) Count your chain spaces from the bottom to make sure the sm is in the same place on both sides. (3)

Row 4: ch3, dc in ch1, *ch2, 2 dc in ch2*, rep * * across, past your 1st sm, until you are placing 2dc in the space with your second sm, *ch1, remove hook from loop, place hook through the ch2 space on the other side of the top at the same place (4) and pull loop through, ch1, 2dc in next ch2 space*, rep * * placing the last 2 dc in last ch2, ch1, remove hook from loop, place hook through the ch4 space on the other side of the top and pull loop through, ch1, 1dc in the starting ch3 space of the row (5)

FO

Size 3XL Only: 

Row 4: ch3, dc in ch1, *ch2, 2 dc in ch2*, rep * * across, placing the last 2dc in the ch4 space from the previous row. Turn.

Row 5: Rep Row 3

Lay the top out and fold it in half so that it looks like a v-neck t-shirt (1). Place sm 9” from the top of the shoulder in a ch space on either side of the garment. (2) Count your chain spaces from the bottom to make sure the sm is in the same place on both sides. (3)

Row 6:  ch3, dc in ch1, *ch2, 2 dc in ch2*, rep * * across, past your 1st sm, until you are placing 2dc in the space with your second sm, *ch1, remove hook from loop, place hook through the ch2 space on the other side of the top at the same place (4) and pull loop through, ch1, 2dc in next ch2 space*, rep * * placing the last 2 dc in last ch2, ch1, remove hook from loop, place hook through the ch4 space on the other side of the top and pull loop through, ch1, 1dc in the starting ch3 space of the row (5)

FO

Size 4XL Only: 

Row 4: ch3, dc in ch1, *ch2, 2 dc in ch2*, rep * * across, placing the last 2dc in the ch4 space from the previous row. Turn.

Row 5 - Row 7 rep Rows 3 - 4

Lay the top out and fold it in half so that it looks like a v-neck t-shirt (1). Place sm 10” from the top of the shoulder in a ch space on either side of the garment. (2) Count your chain spaces from the bottom to make sure the sm is in the same place on both sides.(3)

Row 8: ch3, dc in ch1, *ch2, 2 dc in ch2*, rep * * across, past your 1st sm, until you are placing 2dc in the space with your second sm, *ch1, remove hook from loop, place hook through the ch2 space on the other side of the top at the same place (4) and pull loop through, ch1, 2dc in next ch2 space*, rep * * placing the last 2 dc in last ch2, ch1, remove hook from loop, place hook through the ch4 space on the other side of the top and pull loop through, ch1, 1dc in the starting ch3 space of the row (5)

FO

Left Side All Sides:

Rep Row 1 - Row 4(6, 8, 10, 4, 6, 8) along the opposite side.

FO

Block your top.

Fit and Finish:

Weave in all your ends and try on your top. You may like your neckline to be a bit less open. You can seam together the tips of the petal on the squares closest to the v to close the neckline (image 6 below). You can do this on one of both sides of the garment. For my fit, I wanted 

my back neckline to be less deep than the front, so I sl st together the petals on the back to close the v a bit on the back side.

Happy Creating!

IF YOU LIKED THIS PATTERN, PLEASE SUPPORT ME ON PATREON OR BUY ME A COFFEE!

I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #sweetsummertee

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

FOLLOW ME ON SOCIAL MEDIA

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Hi! I’m Rachel.

I’m a quirky world traveller, avid knitter, crochet lover, pattern maker, and all around nerd! I spend a lot of time clowning around, and I often have the goofiest smile on my face. This website is the landing place for my new patterns, random thoughts, and general craziness. I hope you enjoy my randomness and my yarnie goodness!

ABOUT THIS Design:

The Stepping Stones Scarf is gorgeous lace with an elegant repeat. It is made with two lace patterns that seamlessly transition between and compliment each other, flowing like a cascade of stepping stones through a river.

This lightweight design is perfect for transitioning seasons, either fall to winter or winter to spring. 

The look of this scarf is created by alternating between two skeins of variegated yarn every 2 rows. This gives the scarf a wonderful cascading stripped effect. But, this scarf would also look amazing in one solid color, or even with color blocking! It really lends itself well to whatever yarn you’d like to choose.

The sample scarf is made with Lion Brand Mandala yarn. This yarn is a weight 3 DK yarn. Because the gauge is not particularly important for this scarf, you can use anything from a weight 2 to a weight 4 yarn. But, if you are looking for a particular size of scarf, you should be aware of the stated gauge for the pattern and how that corresponds to the gauge of your chosen yarn. A worsted weight will give you a much larger, plusher scarf, great for winter months. And a sport weight will yield a garment that is much lighter and airier, which would be perfect as a light summer scarf. However, this scarf is just as beautiful in any weight yarn you chose.

I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #steppingstonesscarf

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

FOLLOW ME ON SOCIAL MEDIA

Facebook: Ravin Sekai Designs
Ravelry: RavinSekai
Instagram: @ravinsekaidesigns
Pinterest: Ravin Sekai Designs
Patreon: Ravin Sekai Designs

WHAT YOU NEED:

Needles: Size 4.5mm or size needed to obtain gauge

Yarn: DK Weight 3 yarn. Sample knit in Lion Brand Mandala approx 500 - 700 yards

Gauge: 20 st/28 rows = 4” in stockinette, 23 sts/23 rows = 4” in lace pattern (not super important, gauge is after blocking, see notes) 

Finished Scarf: Width: 11" Length: 62" (variable. See notes.)

Model: model is 4’11”, 38” bust, 27.5” waist, 40” hips

ABBREVIATIONS:

CO: cast on. I used the long tail CO.
RS: right side
WS: wrong side
S1, S2: skein 1 or skein 2. See notes.
St/sts: stitch/stitches
Rep: repeat
Cont: continue
Sl1kw: slip your stitch knitwise from your left needle to the right without knitting it.
K: knit
P: purl
YO: yarn over
Ssk: slip, slip, knit. Slip the first stitch as if to knit onto right-hand needles, slip the second stitch as if to knit, then slide the left-hand needle into the front part of both stitches and knit them together.
K2tog: knit two together
K3tog: knit three together
Sl1-k2tog-psso: slip one stitch to the right-hand needle knitwise, knit the next 2 stitches together, pass the previously slipped stitch over the k2tog and off the right-hand needle
Sl2-k1-p2sso: slip next 2 stitches together knitwise, knit next stitch, pass the 2 slipped stitches over the k1 and off the needle together.
BO: bind off. Make sure you bind off loosely so that the ribbing on the bottom has a good stretch.

Notes:

• Gauge is not super important for this scarf. Just be aware of your gauge vs. the stated gauge to have an idea of the size of scarf you will create. Also, be aware that many people have a looser gauge when they do lace because their yo’s are larger that a normal stockinette st. Because of this, I have provided both a stockinette gauge and lace gauge. So, if you are a person with tighter lace, you might want to check the gauge of the lace, too.

• If you choose a lighter weight yarn, be aware you will need more yardage to create the same size as shown and will need to knit more repeats of the lace. If you choose a heavier weight, the scarf will be larger if you knit the repeats as stated in the pattern, etc.

• This scarf is a chevron. To make this shape, it has 1 decrease (ssk or k2tog) on either end of the RS rows, and 1 increase (yo) on either side of a k1 backbone at the center similar to how you would make a triangle shawl. Pairing these inc/dec in this way is what makes the chevron shape.

• Length: I chose to make my scarf 62” long. I knit 336 rows of the lace patterns (7 repeats of Lace 1 and Lace 2) and then the 2 borders, leaving me with 352 rows total. However, you can knit your scarf to be as long or short as you want!

• Width: I chose to make my scarf 11” wide. Each edging is about ½ an inch wide, leaving me with 10” of lace between them. If you’d like a wider scarf, you can add one repeat of lace on either side of the back bone. (24 sts total, approx 4”)

• To get the effect I have in the sample scarf, you will be using 2 skeins of yarn at the same time. You can use contrasting colors or variegated yarn that changes like I did. You will change which skein of yarn you are working from every 2 rows. For example, make your Rows 1 and 2 with skein 1 (S1), then switch to skein 2 (S2) for Row 3 and 4, and then back again to S1 for rows 5 and 6. Cont. in this method, back and forth, until you reach the length you prefer.

THE PATTERN:

For the free pattern of this design please continue on this page. Please consider supporting me by purchasing the 100% ad-free PDF with all extras/charts for this pattern on my Ravelry or ETSY pages. Or consider joining my Patreon for member perks.

Set Up Rows:

CO 63 sts

Row 1 (RS): sl1kw, k to last st, sl1kw

Row 2 (WS): p1, k to last st, p1

Border:

Row 1 (w/ S1): sl1kw, k2, ssk, k1, *k3, yo, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo*, rep * * 3 more times (4 times total), k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, *yo, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k3*, rep * * 3 more times, k1, k2tog, k2, sl1kw

Row 2: p1, k4, *k3, p3*, rep * * 3 more times, p5, *p3, k3*, rep * * 3 more times, k4, p1

Row 3 (w/ S2): sl1kw, k2, ssk, k1, *k2, yo, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k1*, rep * * 3 more times, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, *k1, yo, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k2*, rep * * 3 more times, k1, k2tog, k2, sl1kw

Row 4: p1, k4, *k2, p3, k1*, rep * * 3 more times, p5, *k1, p3, k2*, rep * * 3 more times, k4, p1

Row 5 (w/ S1): sl1kw, k2, ssk, k1, *k1, yo, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k2* rep * * 3 more times, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, *k2, yo, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k1*, rep * * 3 more times, k1, k2tog, k2, sl1kw

Row 6: p1, k4, *k1, p3, k2*, rep * * 3 more times, p5, *k2, p3, k1*, rep * * 3 more times, k4, p1

Lace 1:

Row 1 (RS): sl1kw, k2, ssk, k1, *k3, yo, ssk, k4, yo, ssk, k1* rep * * once more, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, *k1, k2tog, yo, k4, k2tog, yo, k3*, rep * * once more, k1, k2tog, k2, sl1kw

Row 2 and all WS rows until otherwise stated: p1, k4, p until last 5 sts, k4, p1

Row 3: sl1kw, k2, ssk, k1, *k3, yo, ssk, k4, yo, ssk, k1* rep * * once more, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, *k1, k2tog, yo, k4, k2tog, yo, k3*, rep * * once more, k1, k2tog, k2, sl1kw

Row 5: sl1kw, k2, ssk, k1, *k3, yo, ssk, k4, yo, ssk, k1* rep * * once more, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, *k1, k2tog, yo, k4, k2tog, yo, k3*, rep * * once more, k1, k2tog, k2, sl1kw

Row 7: sl1kw, k2, ssk, k1, *k3, yo, ssk, k4, yo, ssk, k1* rep * * once more, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, *k1, k2tog, yo, k4, k2tog, yo, k3*, rep * * once more, k1, k2tog, k2, sl1kw

Row 9: sl1kw, k2, ssk, k1, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1*, rep * * once more, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, *k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk*, rep * * once more, k1, k2tog, k2, sl1kw

Row 11: sl1kw, k2, ssk, k1, *k3, yo, sl1-k2tog-psso, yo, k3, yo, sl1-k2tog-psso, yo*, rep * * once more, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, *yo, k3tog, yo, k3, yo, k3tog, yo, k3*, rep * * once more, k1, k2tog, k2, sl1kw

Row 13: sl1kw, k2, ssk, k1, *k2, k2tog, yo, k4, k2tog, yo, k2*, rep * * once more, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, *k2, yo, ssk, k4, yo, ssk, k2*, rep * * once more, k2, k2tog, k1, sl1kw

Row 15: sl1kw, k2, ssk, k1, *k2tog, yo, k4, k2tog, yo, k4*, rep * * once more, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, *k4, yo, ssk, k4, yo, ssk*, rep * * once more, k1, k2tog, k2, sl1kw

Row 17: sl1kw, k2, ssk, k1, *k4, k2tog, yo, k4, k2tog, yo*, rep * * once more, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, *yo, ssk, k4, yo, ssk, k4*, rep * * once more, k1, k2tog, k2, sl1kw

Row 19: sl1kw, k2, ssk, k1, *k2, k2tog, yo, k4, k2tog, yo, k2*, rep * * once more, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, *k2, yo, ssk, k4, yo, ssk, k2*, rep * * once more, k1, k2tog, k2, sl1kw

Row 21: sl1kw, k2, ssk, k1, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1*, rep * * once more, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, *k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk*, rep * * once more, k1, k2tog, k2, sl1kw

Row 23: sl1kw, k2, ssk, k1, *k3, yo, sl1-k2tog-psso, yo, k3, yo, sl1-k2tog-psso, yo*, rep * * once more, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, *yo, k3tog, yo, k3, yo, k3tog, yo, k3*, rep * * once more, k1, k2tog, k2, sl1kw

Lace 2:

Row 25: sl1kw, k2, ssk, k1, *k3, yo, ssk, k4, yo, ssk, k1*, rep * * once more, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, *k1, k2tog, yo, k4, k2tog, yo, k3*, rep * * once more, k1, k2tog, k2, sl1kw

Row 27: sl1kw, k2, ssk, k1, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k4, yo, ssk, k1*, rep * * once more, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, *k1, k2tog, yo, k4, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk*, rep * * once more, k1, k2tog, k2, sl1kw

Row 29: sl1kw, k2, ssk, k1, *k3, yo, ssk, k4, yo, sl1-k2tog-psso, yo*, rep * * once more, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, *yo, k3tog, yo, k4, k2tog, yo, k3*, rep * * once more, k1, k2tog, k2, sl1kw

Row 31: sl1kw, k2, ssk, k1, *k3, yo, ssk, k4, yo, ssk, k1*, rep * * once more, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, *k1, k2tog, yo, k4, k2tog, yo, k3*, rep * * once more, k1, k2tog, k2, sl1kw

Row 33: sl1kw, k2, ssk, k1, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k4, yo, ssk, k1*, rep * * once more, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, *k1, k2tog, yo, k4, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk*, rep * * once more, k1, k2tog, k2, sl1kw

Row 35: sl1kw, k2, ssk, k1, *k3, yo, ssk, k4, yo, sl1-k2tog-psso, yo*, rep * * once more, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, *yo, k3tog, yo, k4, k2tog, yo, k3*, rep * * once more, k1, k2tog, k2, sl1kw

Row 37: sl1kw, k2, ssk, k1, *k3, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k2*, rep * * once more, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, *k2, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k3*, rep * * once more, k1, k2tog, k2, sl1kw

Row 39: sl1kw, k2, ssk, k1, *k2tog, yo, k4, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1*, rep * * once more, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, *k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k4, yo, ssk*, rep * * once more, k1, k2tog, k2, sl1kw

Row 41: sl1kw, k2, ssk, k1, *k4, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, sl1-k2tog-psso, yo*, rep * * once more, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, *yo, k3tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k4*, rep * * once more, k1, k2tog, k2, sl1kw

Row 43: sl1kw, k2, ssk, k1, *k2, k2tog, yo, k4, k2tog, yo, k2*, rep * * once more, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, *k2, yo, ssk, k4, yo, ssk, k2*, rep once more, k1, k2tog, k2, sl1kw

Row 45: sl1kw, k2, ssk, k1, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k4*, rep * * once more, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, *k4, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk*, rep * * once more, k1, k2tog, k2, sl1kw

Row 47: sl1kw, k2, ssk, k1, *k3, yo, sl1-k2tog-psso, yo, k4, k2tog, yo*, rep * * once more, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, *yo, ssk, k4, yo, k3tog, yo, k3*, rep * * once more, k1, k2tog, k2, sl1kw

Rep. Lace Rows 1 - 48 until the scarf reaches the length you prefer. I did approx. 336 rows of lace (7 repeats) before finishing with the Final Border. Make sure you finish your lace on a WS row to start on a RS row for the Final Border

Final Border:

Row 1: sl1kw, k2, ssk, k1, *k3, yo, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo*, rep * * 3 more times (4 times total), k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, *yo, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k3*, rep * * 3 more times, k1, k2tog, k2, sl1kw

Row 2: p1, k4, *k3, p3*, rep * * 3 more times, p5, *p3, k3*, rep * * 3 more times, k4, p1

Row 3: sl1kw, k2, ssk, k1, *k2, yo, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k1*, rep * * 3 more times, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, *k1, yo, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k2*, rep * * 3 more times, k1, k2tog, k2, sl1kw

Row 4: p1, k4, *k2, p3, k1*, rep * * 3 more times, p5, *k1, p3, k2*, rep * * 3 more times, k4, p1

Row 5: sl1kw, k2, ssk, k1, k1, yo, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k2* rep * * 3 more times, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, *k2, yo, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k1*, rep * * 3 more times, k1, k2tog, k2, sl1kw

Row 6: p1, k4, *k1, p3, k2*, rep * * 3 more times, p5, *k2, p3, k1*, rep * * 3 more times, k4, p1

Finishing:

Row 1: sl1kw, k to last st, sl1kw

Row 2: p1, k to last st, p1

BO

Happy Creating!

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I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

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Hi! I’m Rachel.

I’m a quirky world traveller, avid knitter, crochet lover, pattern maker, and all around nerd! I spend a lot of time clowning around, and I often have the goofiest smile on my face. This website is the landing place for my new patterns, random thoughts, and general craziness. I hope you enjoy my randomness and my yarnie goodness!

ABOUT THIS Design:

This is the Heart's Desire Sweater and it is just waiting for you to make it yours! There's so many different ways to create the striping on this sweater, it truly is up to your heart's desire!

The pattern is SIZE INCLUSIVE, with directions for sizes S - 5XL; bust measurements of 32" - 63". So there should be a size for you! The sweater is meant to be worn with 13"-16" of positive ease. But, you can always make a size down if you'd like a more form fitting sweater, or a size up if you want to go for that extra oversized fit.

The sweater is created using DK weight 3 yarn and a 4mm hook. I found this yarn and hook combo the best for creating a nice oversized pull-over with out having too much bulk or weight. For the sample sweater, I used a combination of Lion Brand Mandala Yarn and Paintbox Yarns Simply DK. The Mandala created an awesome ombre effect on the sweater. However, you can use a rainbow of solids, just 2 colors, or make the whole sweater only one solid color. It's really up to you.

Make it however your heart desires!

THANK YOU! to all my wonderful testers!

Shannon, Lea, Sharon, Chantel, Emilie, Lisa, and Robyn

I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #heartsdesiresweater

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

FOLLOW ME ON SOCIAL MEDIA

Facebook: Ravin Sekai Designs
Ravelry: RavinSekai
Instagram: @ravinsekaidesigns
Pinterest: Ravin Sekai Designs
Patreon: Ravin Sekai Designs

WHAT YOU NEED:

Hook Size: 4mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge

Yarn: Light/DK weight 3 yarn. Sample crocheted in Paintbox Yarns Simply DK for MC and Lion Brand Mandala for CC. Approx 2200(2410, 2667, 2738, 2968, 3281, 3596, 3847, 4105) yards total.

Gauge: 18st/9.75 rows= 4” in heart pattern stitch (gauge is after blocking). See Note #1 on pg. 4

Suggested Bust Measurements: XS: 28”-31”, S: 32”-35”, M: 36”-39”, L: 40”-43”, XL: 44”-47”, 2XL: 48”-51”, 3XL: 52”-55”,  4XL: 56”-59”, 5XL: 60”-63”

Finished Garment Sizing: Size is after blocking. Worn with 13” - 16” of positive ease. Length: 23(23, 24.25, 24.75, 25, 25.5, 26.5, 26.75, 27.25)” x Bust: 42(48, 52, 56, 59.5, 65, 69, 72.75, 76.5)”

Model: model is 4’11” tall, 36” bust, 28” waist, 39” hips wearing size small, with 12” positive ease in bust.

ABBREVIATIONS:

Abbreviations in US terms
Ch: chain
RS: right side, the side of your crochet on the outside that everyone will see.
WS: wrong side, the side of your crochet on the inside that no one will see.
MC: main color (background, I used light grey)
CC: contrast color (colored hearts, I used a variegated yarn)
St: stitch
Sl st: slip stitch
Sc: single crochet
Scblo: single crochet in the back loop only
Hdc: half double crochet
Hdcblo: half double crochet in the back loop only
Dc: double crochet
Rep: repeat
Sk: skip
FO: fasten off
Pf: Puff Stitch. YO, insert hook into st, YO, pull through just the st, YO, insert hook into same st, YO, pull through just the st, YO, insert hook into same st, YO, pull through just the st, YO, pull through all loops. This makes a 7 loop puff.
Csdc: chainless starting double crochet. Pull up loop on hook approx the same height as your regular dc, holding elongated loop on hook with your finger twist the hook counterclockwise down towards you, wrapping the lengthened loop around your hook (should look like a yarn over), insert hook into loop and finish stitch how you would a normal dc. Here is a video to help you if this is confusing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XFK1tTRBugQ

Notes:

• Gauge Swatch: The gauge is worked in the “heart pattern stitch.” Because most of the sweater is worked in the round, you should make your swatch in the round.
  - Ch 40 sts, join to crochet in the round, then follow the directions for Rounds 2-3 on pg. 5 with your chosen yarn until your swatch measures over 4”. Then block it for the most accurate measurements of gauge. Remember, each heart = 3 sts (2 puff sts and 1 ch1) and the dc counts as 1 st. So, each repeat is 4 sts.

• Gauge For Sweater: Make sure you check your gauge as you work on your sweater. Some crocheters might accidentally loosen their tension as they crochet which can drastically change the size of your sweater. As this garment is already oversized, you don’t want to make it even more so.

• Pattern is written as follows: XS(S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)

• Fit: The sweater pattern is written for 13” - 16” of positive ease. However, there is nothing stopping you from choosing a smaller size for a more form fitting top. For a more form fitting top, choose the size that has measurements that more closely match your actual bust.

• Top is crocheted bottom up, in the round until you separate front and back for the sleeves. Then, the shoulders are seamed and the sleeves are crocheted directly onto the body in the round.

• For my top, I used a chainless starting dc (csdc) to start each row because it makes a seamless join. After the first row, I will no longer be mentioning this and it will be written as simply dc. If you would rather ch3, that is ok too. If you ch3 to start, be aware that your ch3 will count as 1dc.

• Make sure you hold your non-working yarn in back on the RS rows and in front on the WS rows when you separate for the arm holes to prevent carried yarn from showing on the front.

• The length of the body of the sweater and also the sleeves are adjustable. You can make either longer by adding more rounds where it’s mentioned in the pattern.

• The cuffs for the sleeves and the neckline are made with scblo ribbing. A good tutorial for this method of adding ribbing on the end of a project can be found on Toni from TL Yarn Crafts’ Youtube channel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xsEPLeUSwmg&t=176s

• Yarn: I used a solid color yarn for my MC and a variegated yarn for my CC. In order to line up my colors on the sleeves, I needed to separate out each color from the skein and create separate cakes. That way I could line up the rows on the sleeves with the rows on the body. Trying the sweater on after seaming the shoulders will tell you the approximate row that the start of the sleeves matches up to. Then, you can decide which color you should start on your sleeves. This is not strictly necessary unless you want the sleeves and body to have the same color shifting like the sample sweater.

THE PATTERN:

For the free pattern of this design please continue on this page. Please consider supporting me by purchasing the 100% ad-free PDF with all extras/charts for this pattern on my Ravelry or ETSY pages. Or consider joining my Patreon for member perks.

BOTTOM BAND

With MC Ch 10

Row 1: hdc in 2nd st from hook, hdc in each ch across (9 hdc). Turn.

Row 2: ch1, hdcblo of each hdc below. (9 hdc). Turn.

Row 3 - 128(138, 148, 160, 171, 186, 197, 208, 218): rep. Row 2 

Ch1, sc ends of bottom band together so that you can begin crocheting top in the round.

MAIN SWEATER

Round 1: ch1, sc 192(208, 224, 240, 256, 280, 296, 312, 328) st around the bottom band (about 3st for every 2 rows). Sl st in first sc from the beginning of the round.

Round 2: with MC *csdc in 1st st (csdc at the start of each row will be labelled as dc on following rows. When not at the beginning of the row, csdc is a dc.), sk1, [pf, ch1, pf], sk1* rep * * around, sl st into top of chainless dc.

Round 3: *with MC 1dc in dc below, with CC [pf, ch1, pf] all in middle of ‘heart’ below* rep * * around, sl st into top of 1st dc.

Round 4 - Round 5: with MC *1dc in dc below, [pf, ch1, pf] all in middle of ‘heart’ below* rep * * around, sl st into top of 1st dc.

Round 6 - Round 36: rep Round 3 - Round 5

Tip 1: if you’re using a variegated yarn, make a note of what color you were on when you separated the front and back. Have a second skein of the same color so that when it’s time to do the back, you can wind the skein to the correct color and make the front and back match! 

Tip 2: If you’re wanting to add length to your sweater, this is where you will add rounds. Rep Rounds 3 - 5 until the sweater reaches the length you’d like. Be aware of how many inches the sleeves gaps are though!

SEPARATING FRONT AND BACK

Front:

Row 37: with MC *1dc, [pf, ch1, pf] all in middle of ‘heart’ below* rep * * 23(25, 27, 29, 31, 34, 36, 38, 40) more times, 1dc in the next dc. Turn. [97(105, 113, 121, 129, 141, 149, 157, 165) sts]

Row 38: *1dc, [pf, ch1, pf] all in middle of ‘heart’ below* rep * * 23(25, 27, 29, 31, 34, 36, 38, 40) more times, 1dc in the 1st dc of the previous row. Turn.

Row 39: *with MC 1dc, with CC [pf, ch1, pf] all in middle of ‘heart’ below* rep * * 23(25, 27, 29, 31, 34, 36, 38, 40) more times, with MC 1dc in the 1st dc of the previous row. Turn.

Row 40 - Row 46(48, 49, 50, 51, 53, 54, 55, 55): rep Row 37 - Row 39

Neckline:

Row 47(49, 50, 51, 52, 54, 55, 56, 56): cont. in color pattern *1dc, [pf, ch1, pf] all in middle of ‘heart’ below* rep * * 6(7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14) more times, 1 dc in the next dc. Turn. [29(33, 37, 41, 45, 49, 53, 57, 61)sts]

Row 48(50, 51, 52, 53, 55, 56, 57, 57) - Row 53(55, 56, 57, 58, 60, 61, 62, 62): rep Row 47(49, 50, 51, 52, 54, 55, 56, 56)

FO

Reattach yarn to the opposite side with a sl st and rep Row 47(49, 50, 51, 52, 54, 55, 56, 56) - Row 53(55, 56, 57, 58, 60, 61, 62, 62) starting the 1st dc in the same st that you sl st into.

FO

Back:

With the back of the sweater facing you, starting on the right side, reattach the yarn to the same stitch on Row 36 as your last dc of the front side’s Row 37. 

Row 37: with MC *1dc, [pf, ch1, pf] all in middle of ‘heart’ below* rep * * 23(25, 27, 29, 31, 34, 36, 38, 40) more times, 1dc in the 1st dc of the previous row. Turn. [97(105, 113, 121, 129, 141, 149, 157, 165) sts]

Row 38: *1dc, [pf, ch1, pf] all in middle of ‘heart’ below* rep * * 23(25, 27, 29, 31, 34, 36, 38, 40) more times, 1dc in the 1st dc of the previous row. Turn.

Row 39: *with MC 1dc, with CC [pf, ch1, pf] all in middle of ‘heart’ below* rep * * 23(25, 27, 29, 31, 34, 36, 38, 40) more times, with MC 1dc in the 1st dc of the previous row. Turn.

Row 40 - Row 53(55, 56, 57, 58, 60, 61, 62, 62) : rep Row 37 - Row 39

Turn. Do not FO

SEAMING SHOULDERS

I used the Continuous Flat Braid join to sew my shoulders together, because it creates a join that is smooth and delicate. This seam adds about .5" to the sleeve opening.  Feel free to choose a different join method if you prefer. But, be aware that you might have to adjust for the number of sts in the sleeves.

Row 1: ch2, sc in the first st of the front side, *ch2, sk1, sc in next st* to the end.

Row 2: ch2, turn piece so you are working back towards sleeve opening, (Row 1 is now on the right side), sc in the same st from end on the back side, *ch1, remove hook from loop, place hook through 1st ch2 space on front side, pull loop through, ch1, sk1 on back side, sc in next* rep * * to end. 

SLEEVES

Round 1: With MC, attach yarn to the bottom of the sleeve opening with a sl st, ch1, sc in the same place, 63(63, 67, 71, 75, 79, 87, 91, 95) sc evenly around the sleeve opening, sl st into the first sc of the round. [64(64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 88, 92, 96) sts]

Round 2: with MC *dc in 1st st, sk1, [pf, ch1, pf], sk1* rep * * around, sl st into top of chainless dc.

Round 3: *with MC 1dc, with CC [pf, ch1, pf] all in middle of ‘heart’ below* rep * * around, sl st into top of 1st dc.

Round 4 - Round 5: with MC *1dc, [pf, ch1, pf] all in middle of ‘heart’ below* rep * * around, sl st into top of 1st dc.

Round 6 - Round 32: rep Round 3 - Round 5

(If you feel like you need longer sleeves, this is where you would add a few rounds. Keep in mind the cuff and next 5 rows are about 3.25”.)

Round 33: with CC ch 2 (does not count as a st), [pf, ch1, pf] in center of each heart below around, sl st into ch2 at beginning of round. [48(48, 51, 54, 57, 60, 66, 69, 72) sts]

**Try your sweater on to check the sleeve’s length. Round 33 should end at right above your wrist bone. If you need a few more rows (ie. if you made a more form fitting size), add them now. Make note of how many rows you add so that you can add them to the second sleeve as well.**

XS and S Only:

Round 34: with MC, ch2, *[pf, ch1, pf] in center of first heart, dc in center of next heart* rep * * around, sl st in the top of the ch2. [32sts]

Round 35: csdc, *[pf, ch1, pf] in center of first heart, dc in the next dc* rep * * around, sk last dc, sl st into csdc [32sts]

Round 36:  w/ MC csdc, *w/ CC [pf, ch1, pf] in center of first 2 hearts, w/ MC dc in next dc* rep * * around 2 more times, w/ CC [pf, ch1, pf] in center of last 2 hearts, sl st into csdc. [28 sts]

Round 37: ch1, sc around, sl st into 1st sc of round. [28 sts]

Go to “Cuff”

M Only:

Round 34: with MC, csds, *[pf, ch1, pf] in center of first heart, dc in center of next heart* rep * * around to last heart, [pf, ch1, pf] in center of last heart,  sl st in the top of the csdc. [36sts]

Round 35: csdc, *[pf, ch1, pf] in center of first heart, dc in the next dc* rep * * around to last heart, [pf, ch1, pf] in center of last heart, sl st into csdc [36sts] 

Round 36: w/ MC csdc, *w/ CC [pf, ch1, pf] in center of first 2 hearts, w/ MC dc in next dc* rep * * around 3 more times, w/ CC [pf, ch1, pf] in center of last heart, sl st into csdc. [32sts]

Round 37: ch1, sc around, sl st into 1st sc of round. [32 sts]

Go to “Cuff”

L Only:

Round 34: with MC, ch2, *[pf, ch1, pf] in center of first heart, dc in center of next heart* rep * * around to last heart, dc in last heart, sl st in the top of the ch2. [36sts]

Round 35:csdc, *[pf, ch1, pf] in center of first heart, dc in the next dc* rep * * around, sk last dc, sl st into csdc. [36sts]

Round 36: w/ MC csdc, *w/ CC [pf, ch1, pf] in center of first 2 hearts, w/ MC dc in next dc* rep * * around 3 more times, w/ CC [pf, ch1, pf] in center of last heart, sl st into csdc. [32 sts]

Round 37: ch1, sc around, sl st into 1st sc of round. [32 sts]

Go to “Cuff”

XL Only:

Round 34: with MC, csds, *[pf, ch1, pf] in center of first heart, dc in center of next heart* rep * * around to last heart, [pf, ch1, pf] in center of last heart, sl st in the top of the csdc. [40 sts]

Round 35: csdc, *[pf, ch1, pf] in center of first heart, dc in the next dc* rep * * around to last heart, [pf, ch1, pf] in center of last heart, sl st into csdc. [40 sts]

Round 36:  w/ MC csdc, *w/ CC [pf, ch1, pf] in center of first 2 hearts, w/ MC dc in next dc* rep * * around 3 more times, w/ CC [pf, ch1, pf] in center of last 2 hearts, sl st into csdc. [35 sts]

Round 37: ch1, sc around, sl st into 1st sc of round. [35 sts]

Go to “Cuff”

2XL Only:

Round 34: with MC, ch2, *[pf, ch1, pf] in center of first heart, dc in center of next heart* rep * * around to last heart, dc in last heart, sl st in the top of the ch2. [40 sts]

Round 35: csdc, *[pf, ch1, pf] in center of first heart, dc in the next dc* rep * * around, sk last dc, sl st into csdc. [40 sts]

Round 36:  w/ MC csdc, *w/ CC [pf, ch1, pf] in center of first 2 hearts, w/ MC dc in next dc* rep * * around 3 more times, w/ CC [pf, ch1, pf] in center of last 2 hearts, sl st into csdc. [35 sts]

Round 37: ch1, sc around, sl st into 1st sc of round. [35 sts]

Go to “Cuff”

3XL Only:

Round 34: with MC, ch2, *[pf, ch1, pf] in center of first heart, dc in center of next heart* rep * * around to last heart, dc in last heart, sl st in the top of the ch2. [44 sts]

Round 35: csdc, *[pf, ch1, pf] in center of first heart, dc in the next dc* rep * * around, sk last dc, sl st into csdc. [44 sts]

Round 36: w/ MC csdc, *w/ CC [pf, ch1, pf] in center of first 2 hearts, w/ MC dc in next dc* rep * * around 4 more times, w/ CC [pf, ch1, pf] in center of last heart, sl st into csdc. [39 sts]

Round 37: ch1, sc around, sl st into 1st sc of round. [39 sts]

Go to “Cuff”

4XL Only:

Round 34: with MC, csds, *[pf, ch1, pf] in center of first heart, dc in center of next heart* rep * * around to last heart, [pf, ch1, pf] in center of last heart,  sl st in the top of the csdc. [48 sts]

Round 35: csdc, *[pf, ch1, pf] in center of first heart, dc in the next dc* rep * * around to last heart, [pf, ch1, pf] in center of last heart,, sl st into csdc. [48 sts]

Round 36: w/ MC csdc, *w/ CC [pf, ch1, pf] in center of first 2 hearts, w/ MC dc in next dc* rep * * around 4 more times, w/ CC [pf, ch1, pf] in center of last 2 hearts, sl st into csdc. [42 sts]

Round 37: ch1, sc around, sl st into 1st sc of round. [42 sts]

Go to “Cuff”

5XL Only:

Round 34: with MC, csds, *[pf, ch1, pf] in center of first heart, dc in center of next heart* rep * * around to last heart, [pf, ch1, pf] in center of last heart,  sl st in the top of the csdc. [52 sts]

Round 35: csdc, *[pf, ch1, pf] in center of first heart, dc in the next dc* rep * * around to last heart, [pf, ch1, pf] in center of last heart,, sl st into csdc. [52 sts]

Round 36: w/ MC csdc, *w/ CC [pf, ch1, pf] in center of first 2 hearts, w/ MC dc in next dc* rep * * around 5 more times, w/ CC [pf, ch1, pf] in center of last heart, sl st into csdc. [46 sts]

Round 37: ch1, sc around, sl st into 1st sc of round. [46 sts]

Go to “Cuff”

CUFF

ch 7

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, 5sc down ch, sl st in the next 2 sc on the collar. Turn. 6sts

Row 2: 6 scblo back up. Turn.

Row 3: ch1, 6scblo back down, sl st in the next 2 sc on the cuff. Turn.

Rep Rows 2 - 3 around the cuff until you come back around to the start. Seam the 2 sides of the cuff together. See notes for more info.

Rep from Sleeve for the opposite sleeve.

COLLAR

Set up: attach yarn to the neckline at the shoulder and sc around evenly. I like to sc 2 sts for every 3 sts on the front and back of the neckline, and sc 3 sts for every 2 rows on the sides. This is up to you and how tight/loose you want your neckline to be. The more sc you put around the neckline to make the collar, the looser/wider your neckline will be. However, if you put in too many sc, then the collar will be ripply and baggy. The fewer sc you make around the collar, the tighter/higher your neckline will be. But, if you put too few sts in, then the neckline will be too tight and stiff. But, it is essentially up to your heart’s desire. 

ch 6

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4sc down ch, sl st in the next 2 sc on the collar. Turn. 5sts

Row 2: 5 scblo back up. Turn.

Row 3: ch1, 5scblo back down, sl st in the next 2 sc on the collar. Turn.

Rep Rows 2 - 3 around the collar until you come back around to the start. Seam the 2 sides of the collar together. See notes for more info.

Happy Creating!

IF YOU LIKED THIS PATTERN, PLEASE SUPPORT ME ON PATREON OR BUY ME A COFFEE!

I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #heartsdesiresweater

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

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Hi! I’m Rachel.

I’m a quirky world traveller, avid knitter, crochet lover, pattern maker, and all around nerd! I spend a lot of time clowning around, and I often have the goofiest smile on my face. This website is the landing place for my new patterns, random thoughts, and general craziness. I hope you enjoy my randomness and my yarnie goodness!

ABOUT THIS Design:

This is the Lizette Beanie, named for a friend of mine! She’s the mom of our group and is always there with a joke or inappropriate comment at just the right moment! So, this hat is for you!

It is a folded brim stocking hat that is a quick knit, but still super fun. The hat uses seed stitch striping to add a nice design element to spice up the design. It’s a perfect stash buster for charity or holiday gifts!

This hat can be worn as either a folded brim hat, or you can unfold the brim and wear it as a slouchy beanie. It looks super cute with the brim down!

The hat is knit in light weight worsted weight 4 yarn. You can use any type of weight 4 yarn as long as it meets gauge. This hat can also be modified for other weights of yarn as long as you know how to convert the number of stitches to whatever your gauge is. For the sample hat, I used Lion Brand Pound of Love. This is an acrylic yarn. I chose acrylic for this project because it is washable and usually very durable. However, you can choose any materials you’d like.

For my hat, I knit the Adult Small as I have a petite sized head (21”).

THANK YOU! to all my wonderful testers!

Kat, Sandra, and Robyn

I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #lizettebeanie

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

FOLLOW ME ON SOCIAL MEDIA

Facebook: Ravin Sekai Designs
Ravelry: RavinSekai
Instagram: @ravinsekaidesigns
Pinterest: Ravin Sekai Designs
Patreon: Ravin Sekai Designs

WHAT YOU NEED:

Needles: 4mm - 4.5mm, circular needles/DPNs, Or size needed to achieve gauge. (See Notes)

Yarn: Medium Weight 4 Yarn. Sample knit in Lion Brand pound of love. 150 - 200 yards

Gauge: 19 st/28 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch. 

Suggested Head Circumference: Teen: 17” - 19”, Adult Small: 19” - 21”, Adult Medium/Large: 21” - 23”, Adult XL: 24” - 25”

Finished Garment Sizing: Teen: 19” circ x 11” tall, Adult Small: 20" circ x 11” tall, Adult Medium/Large: 22" circ. x 11” tall, Adult XL: 23.5" x circ. 11” tall

ABBREVIATIONS:

St: stitch/stitches
CO: cast on
K: knit
P: purl
Rep: repeat
Dec: decrease
K2tog: knit 2 sts together
BO: bind off
Cont: continue
* *: denotes a repeat

Notes:

• Pattern written with smallest size first and next sizes in parentheses. Teen(Adult Small, Adult M/L, Adult XL)

• I used a short set of circular needles, but you can also use DPNs or magic loop if you feel that would work better.

• This hat is knit straight with no decreases until the last row, and then seamed together when it is to your desired length to make the hat. With this method, it is easy to modify the length of the hat if you want it slouchy.

• The stated amount of Rounds are for an 11" hat. If you need a longer hat, cont. knitting in pattern until the hat is as long as you'd like it to be. Then, do the last dec row.

• There are many variations you can make. To make a striped hat like the one on this page, change colors one round before the seed stitch (R36), then change back after the seed st.

• I knit on the tighter side, so it wouldn't be out of the ordinary for you to need to go down a .5 to 1 needle size to make gauge. Also, weight 4 yarn has a lot of variations; some being thicker, while others are closer to a weight 3. Because of these variations, you will have to check which size needle will be best to make gauge for your particular tension/yarn combo.

THE PATTERN:

For the free pattern of this design please continue on this page. Please consider supporting me by purchasing the 100% ad-free PDF with full charts and picture tutorial for this pattern on my Ravelry or ETSY pages. Or consider joining my Patreon for member perks.

CO 88(96, 104, 112) st connect to knit in the round, place a st marker to know where the start of each round is. Make sure you do not twist the brim.

Round 1 - Round 26: *k2, p2* rep * * around.

Round 27 - Round 35: k all sts.

Round 36: *k1, p1* rep * * around.

Round 37: *p1, k1* rep * * around.

Round 38 - Round 45: k all sts.

Round 46: *k1, p1* rep * * around.

Round 47: *p1, k1* rep * * around.

Round 48 - Round 55: k all sts

Round 56: *k1, p1* rep * * around.

Round 57: *p1, k1* rep * * around.

Round 58 - Round 65: k all sts.

Round 66: *k1, p1* rep * * around.

Round 67: *p1, k1* rep * * around.

Round 68 - Round 74: k all sts

Round 75: *k1, k2tog* rep * * around, for Teen and Large Only: k last 2 sts.

BO

If you feel like you’d like a little more length, continue working in pattern (R58-67 is the best representation of the pattern) until the hat reaches your desired length, then do Round 75. Each section of 10 rounds adds approximately 2” of length.

Assembly

1. Using the long tail, with a tapestry needle, weave the yarn through every other stitch along the BO edge like it is a drawstring (pick up both sides of each st), then pull tight to cinch in the top of the hat. (For some yarns, you might have to pull very tight. Do not break yarn) 

2. Optional: Sew a button to the WS to hold the pom pom, then attach the pom pom to the RS by pushing the fastener through and attaching to the button. This makes the pom pom removable so that it can be washed. For more information, check out how to make your own diy pom pom with button.

Happy Creating!

IF YOU LIKED THIS PATTERN, PLEASE SUPPORT ME ON PATREON OR BUY ME A COFFEE!

I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #lizettebeanie

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

FOLLOW ME ON SOCIAL MEDIA

Facebook: Ravin Sekai Designs
Ravelry: RavinSekai
Instagram: @ravinsekaidesigns
Pinterest: Ravin Sekai Designs
Patreon: Ravin Sekai Designs

Hi! I’m Rachel.

I’m a quirky world traveller, avid knitter, crochet lover, pattern maker, and all around nerd! I spend a lot of time clowning around, and I often have the goofiest smile on my face. This website is the landing place for my new patterns, random thoughts, and general craziness. I hope you enjoy my randomness and my yarnie goodness!

THIS IS PART 2 OF THE PATTERN. IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR PART 1, PLEASE CLICK HERE

THANK YOU! to all my wonderful testers!

Lizzy, Emily, Larissa, Ginger, Tammy, Rachel, Ebonny, Danielle and Kendra

I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #autumnitytunicdress

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

FOLLOW ME ON SOCIAL MEDIA

Facebook: Ravin Sekai Designs
Ravelry: RavinSekai
ETSY: Ravin Sekai Designs
Instagram: @ravinsekaidesigns
Pinterest: Ravin Sekai Designs
Patreon: Ravin Sekai Designs

WHAT YOU NEED:

Needles: Size 6.5mm circular needles or size needed to obtain gauge (see notes for more information)

Yarn: Worsted/Aran Weight 4 yarn. Sample knit in Lion Brand Pound of Love. Approx. 850(900, 1000, 1150, 1250, 1460, 1500) yards

Gauge: 15 st/21 rows = 4” in stockinette

Other: waste yarn or st holders, an extra circular cable (see notes)

Suggested Bust Measurements: S: 32”-35”, M: 36”-39”, L: 40”-43”, XL: 44”-47”, 2XL: 48”-51”, 3XL: 52”-55”, 4XL: 56”-58”

Finished Garment: finished garments has about +2” to -2” ease, Bust:  S: 34", M: 38”, L: 42”, XL: 46”, 2XL: 50”, 3XL: 54”, 4XL: 58” Length: variable. Chart on last page.

Model: model is 4’11”, 38” bust, 27.5” waist, 40” hips wearing a medium with 0” positive ease in bust

ABBREVIATIONS:

CO: cast on. I used the long tail CO.
RS: right side
WS: wrong side
St/sts: stitch/stitches
Inc: increase row
Pm: place stitch marker
Marker: the stitch marker that is next in the pattern.
Sm: slip marker from left needle to right.
Rep: repeat
Cont: continue
K: knit
P: purl
KFSB: knit front slip back. This is an increase st. Knit the stitch as normal, but do not slip it off the left needle after knitting. Slip the right hand needle through the back loop of the same st you just knitted, and slip the st off the needle.
M1: make one. This is an increase st. Make one can be a number of different types of increase sts; you can make one right or left. Or, at this part of the pattern, you can use k1fb or KFSB. I used KFSB throughout my tunic. 
M1p: make one purlwise. With the left needle, pick up the horizontal strand between the last stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from front to back, then purl through back loop of the strand. This makes a left-leaning increase on the right, or knit, side of the fabric.
C4b: cable 4 back. Slip 2 st onto the cable needle. With the cable needle held in the back of the work, k2 from the left hand needle, then k2 from the cable needle.
C4f: cable 4 forward. Slip 2 st onto the cable needle. With the cable needle held in front of the work, k2 from the left hand needle, then k2 from the cable needle.
C6f: cable 6 forward. Slip 3 st onto the cable needle. With the cable needle held in front of the work, k3 from the left hand needle, then k3 from the cable needle.
Ssk: slip, slip, knit. Slip the first stitch as if to knit onto right-hand needles, slip the second stitch as if to knit, then slide the left-hand needle into the front part of both stitches and knit them together.
K2tog: knit two together
Knit Straight: knit in pattern without making any increases or decreases until you reach the required number of rows.
BOR: beginning of row
MD: mitered decrease. Slip next 2 sts knitwise onto your right-hand needle and k the next st, sl both slipped sts over the last knitted st at the same time and off right hand needle. A good video of this is here by VeryPink Knits: https://youtu.be/jjUN_hTwbCE
BO: bind off. Make sure you bind off loosely so that the ribbing on the bottom has a good stretch.

THE PATTERN:

For the free pattern of this design please continue on this page. Please consider supporting me by purchasing the 100% ad-free PDF with full tapestry charts for this pattern on my Ravelry or ETSY pages. Or consider joining my Patreon for member perks.

THIS IS PART 2 OF THE PATTERN. IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR PART 1, PLEASE CLICK HERE

Body:

The body has 8 cable motifs that create the design on the front and back; two down either side, and 3 each on the front and back. The side cables start shortly after finishing the Yoke. The others start around the waist area. Also, starting from the end of the Yoke, the body will be increasing 4 sts every 8 rows in order to create the tunic dress shape.

Round 38(38, 43, 46, 49, 52, 59): knit all sts

Round 39(39, 44, 47, 50, 53, 60): k until 7 sts before BOR, pm (this will be your new BOR), remove previous BOR marker as you come to it on the next row.

Round 40(40, 45, 48, 51, 54, 61): p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, pm, k to 7 sts before next marker, pm, (remove next marker as you come to it) p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, pm, k to BOR.

Start of Side cables.

Round 41(41, 46, 49, 52, 55, 62): p2, c4b, p2, c4f, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p2, c4b, p2, c4f, p2, sm, k to BOR

Round 42(42, 47, 50, 53, 56, 63): p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, k to BOR

Round 43(43, 48, 51, 54, 57, 64): p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, k to BOR

Round 44(44, 49, 52, 55, 58 65): p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, k to BOR

Round 45(45, 50, 53, 56, 59, 66): p2, c4b, p2, c4f, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p2, c4b, p2, c4f, p2, sm, k to BOR

Round 46(46, 51, 54, 57, 60, 67): p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, k to BOR

Round 47(47, 52, 55, 58, 61, 68): p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, k to BOR

Round 48(48, 53, 56, 59, 62, 69) (inc): p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, sm, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, m1, k to 1 st before BOR, m1

Round 49(49, 54, 57, 60, 63, 70) - Round 80(80, 93, 96, 107, 110, 117): rep Rounds 41(41, 46, 49, 52, 55, 62) - 48(48, 53, 56, 59, 62 69) another 4(4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6) times. [5(5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7) increases total]

Start of front and back cables. (Inc will now move to between the cables to angle them away from the center)

Round 81(81, 94, 97, 108, 111, 118): *p2, c4b, p2, c4f, p2, sm, k10(12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22), pm, p1, c6f, p1, pm, k9(11, 14, 15, 18, 20, 22), pm, p1, c4f, p1, pm, k9(11, 14, 15, 18, 20, 22), pm, p1, c6f, p1, pm, k10(12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22), sm*, rep * * 

Round 82(82, 95, 98, 109, 112, 119): *p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k4, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm* rep * * 

Round 83(83, 96, 99, 110, 113, 120): *p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k4, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm* rep * *

Round 84(84, 97, 100, 111, 114, 121): *p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k4, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm* rep * *

Round 85(85, 98, 101, 112, 115, 122): *p2, c4b, p2, c4f, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, c6f, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, c4f, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, c6f, p1, sm, k to marker, sm* rep * *

Round 86(86, 99, 102, 113, 116, 123): *p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k4, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm* rep * *

Round 87(87, 100, 103, 114, 117, 124): *p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k4, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm* rep * *

Round 88(88, 101, 104, 115, 118, 125) (inc): *p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, M1, k to marker, sm, p1, k4, p1, sm,  k to 1 st before marker, M1, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm* rep * *

Round 89(89, 102, 105, 116, 119, 126) - Round 168(168, 173, 176, 179, 182, 189) [see notes below for length]:  rep Rounds 81(81, 94, 97, 108, 111, 118) - Round 88(88, 101, 104, 115, 118, 125) another 10(10, 9, 9, 8, 8, 8) times, increasing 4 sts every 8th row, until you have 192(208, 224, 236, 252, 268, 284) sts total. [16 inc rows total from start of cables]

**Once you get the hang of where each cable motif is, feel free to remove all of the markers except the BOR marker. I remove all of them except the BOR and the markers on the front and back where I will be increasing. **

**When you get closer to the bottom of the tunic, it's a good idea to start trying it on to check the length. This tunic dress measurements are designed to land right under your bottom. If you want a longer dress, it will be good to add rows in pattern before you start the bottom band. I am incredibly short (4'11", 150cm), so I actually only knitted 156 rounds for the medium (14 inc rows, 30") before I did the bottom band. So, if you’re short like me, you might want to finish your dress before the stated row count. (See note on length from Part 1) If you have longer legs or are taller, you may want to add a handful of rows at the bottom. Keep your gauge in mind! Remember after blocking, the dress will stretch. Check your gauge on your dress to your blocked gauge swatch to get an idea of how much your garment might grow.**

SMALL/MEDIUM ONLY

Bottom Band:

To make the bottom band, we will be working back and forth again instead of in the round.

Row 169: cut yarn leaving a tail to weave in (make sure it's not too short that you lose it while you're knitting) sl the first 7 sts of the next round onto the right-hand needle without knitting them, they will be knit with the other side. *k2, p2* rep * * until you have knitted 96(104) sts. This is half of your working sts. You can slip the other half onto waste yarn, or you can use a separate circular cable to hold them so they are ready to be knit when you finish the first half.

Row 170 - Row 175: *k2, p2* rep * * to end.

BO in pattern.

Rep for opposite side.

LARGE ONLY:

Round 174: *p2, c4b, p2, c4f, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, c6f, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, c4f, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, c6f, p1, sm, k to marker, sm* rep * *

Round 175: *p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k4, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm* rep * *

Round 176: *p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k4, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm* rep * *

Round 177: *p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k4, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm* rep * *

Round 178 - Round 179: rep Round 174 - 175

Bottom Band:

To make the bottom band, we will be working back and forth again instead of in the round.

Row 180: cut yarn leaving a tail to weave in (make sure it's not too short that you lose it while you're knitting) sl the first 7 sts of the next round onto the right hand needle without knitting them, they will be knit with the other side. *k2, p2* rep * * until you have knitted 112 sts. This is half of your working sts. You can slip the other half onto waste yarn, or you can use a separate circular cable to hold them so they are ready to be knit when you finish the first half.

Row 181 - Row 187: *k2, p2* rep * * to end.

BO in pattern.

Rep for opposite side.

XL ONLY:

Round 177: *p2, c4b, p2, c4f, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, c6f, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, c4f, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, c6f, p1, sm, k to marker, sm* rep * *

Round 178: *p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k4, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm* rep * *

Round 179: *p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k4, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm* rep * *

Bottom Band:

To make the bottom band, we will be working back and forth again instead of in the round.

Row 180: cut yarn leaving a tail to weave in (make sure it's not too short that you lose it while you're knitting) sl the first 7 sts of the next round onto the right hand needle without knitting them, they will be knit with the other side. *k2, p2* rep * * until you have knitted 118 sts. This is half of your working sts. You can slip the other half onto waste yarn, or you can use a separate circular cable to hold them so they are ready to be knit when you finish the first half.

Row 181 - Row 187: *k2, p2* rep * * to end

BO in pattern.

Rep for opposite side.

2XL ONLY: 

Round 180: *p2, c4b, p2, c4f, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, c6f, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, c4f, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, c6f, p1, sm, k to marker, sm* rep * *

Round 181: *p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k4, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm* rep * *

Round 182: *p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k4, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm* rep * *

Round 183: *p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k4, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm* rep * *

Bottom Band:

To make the bottom band, we will be working back and forth again instead of in the round.

Row 184: cut yarn leaving a tail to weave in (make sure it's not too short that you lose it while you're knitting) sl the first 7 sts of the next round onto the right hand needle without knitting them, they will be knit with the other side. *k2, p2* rep * * until you have knitted 126 sts. This is half of your working sts. You can slip the other half onto waist yarn, or you can use a separate circular cable to hold them so they are ready to be knit when you finish the first half.

Row 185 - Row 191: *k2, p2* rep * * to end

BO in pattern.

Rep for opposite side.

3XL ONLY: 

Round 183: *p2, c4b, p2, c4f, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, c6f, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, c4f, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, c6f, p1, sm, k to marker, sm* rep * *

Round 184: *p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k4, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm* rep * *

Round 185: *p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k4, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm* rep * *

Round 186: *p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k4, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm* rep * *

Bottom Band:

To make the bottom band, we will be working back and forth again instead of in the round.

Row 187: cut yarn leaving a tail to weave in (make sure it's not too short that you lose it while you're knitting) sl the first 7 sts of the next round onto the right hand needle without knitting them, they will be knit with the other side. *k2, p2* rep * * until you have knitted 134 sts. This is half of your working sts. You can slip the other half onto waist yarn, or you can use a separate circular cable to hold them so they are ready to be knit when you finish the first half.

Row 188 - Row 194: *k2, p2* rep * * to end

BO in pattern.

Rep for opposite side.

4XL ONLY: 

Round 190: *p2, c4b, p2, c4f, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, c6f, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, c4f, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, c6f, p1, sm, k to marker, sm* rep * *

Round 191: *p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k4, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm* rep * *

Round 192: *p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k4, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm* rep * *

Round 193: *p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k4, p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k6, p1, sm, k to marker, sm* rep * *

Bottom Band:

To make the bottom band, we will be working back and forth again instead of in the round.

Row 194: cut yarn leaving a tail to weave in (make sure it's not too short that you lose it while you're knitting) sl the first 7 sts of the next round onto the right hand needle without knitting them, they will be knit with the other side. *k2, p2* rep * * until you have knitted 142 sts. This is half of your working sts. You can slip the other half onto waist yarn, or you can use a separate circular cable to hold them so they are ready to be knit when you finish the first half.

Row 195 - Row 201: *k2, p2* rep * * to end

BO in pattern.

Rep for opposite side.

Neckline

Mark the center of your v-neck and also the center of the back of your sweater, like in the picture. Starting at the center of the back, pick up and knit a multiple of 4 sts around the neckline. (I picked up 3 sts for every 4 sts/rows, I ended up with 100 sts for the M size. Make sure you pick up the same number of sts on either side of the neckline).

Round 1: *k2, p2* until 2sts before your v-neck center st, k1, MD, remark the center, k1, *k2, p2* to the end of round, ending on 2p sts to keep a 2x2 rib. (If you picked up a multiple of 4, it should end on 2 purl sts, if it didn’t, pick back to the center st, and make those sts whatever they need to be in order to end on 2 purl sts)

Round 2: *k2, p2* until 1 st before your v-neck center st, MD, *k2, p2* to end of round

Round 3 - Round 4: rep in pattern making a MD at the center

BO knitwise

Sleeves:

Pick up Round: At underarm, pick up and knit 5(5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) of the under arm cast on stitches that appear on the left side of the marker you placed when you separated the sleeves from the body. Then, pick up and knit the st from waste yarn [39(43, 47, 49, 51, 53, 57)sts]. Pick up and knit the last 5(5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) of the under arm cast on stitches you added. Pm.

Round 1: k around until you come to your last st before the marker, k the first and last st of the round together. Replace marker. [48(52, 56, 60, 62, 66, 70)sts sts total]

Round 2 - Round 40(40, 42, 42, 44, 44, 46): Starting on Round 10(8, 8, 7, 7, 6, 6), dec 2 sts [one at the beginning of the round and one at the end of the round. I used ssk on the right side of the marker and k2tog on the left] every 10(8, 8, 7, 7, 6, 6) rows, 4(5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) times, then knit straight 0(0, 2, 0, 2, 2, 4) more rows. [40(42, 46, 48, 50, 52, 56) sts total] (refer to the chart)

Cuff:

M/L/2XL ONLY

Round 41(43, 45): k1, k2tog, *p2, k2* rep to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1(we do this because we need a multiple of 4 for the cuff). 

All Sizes:

Rounds 41(42, 44, 43, 46, 45, 47) - Round 47(47, 49, 49, 51, 51, 53): *k2, p2* rep around.

BO in pattern

**If you’d like long sleeves, cont decreasing in pattern until you have 32(32, 36, 36, 40, 40, 40) sts left on you needles. This should give you 17(17, 17.5, 17.5, 18, 18, 18.5)” sleeves before the cuff. Then do the cuff portion from All Sizes.

Weave in your ends and block to measurements on schematic in Part 1. Bust measurements are as stated in the chart. Your length depends on the length you decided to knit your tunic to. Make sure you don’t stretch out the ribbing for the bottom band and the sleeves.

Happy Creating!

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THIS IS PART 1 OF THE PATTERN. IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR PART 2, PLEASE CLICK HERE

Hey all! Long time no see! I took about a month off there in December to get my head around a couple things. Mostly, we had an emergency house move, so I had to focus on packing and getting everything associated with moving one’s life finished in 2 weeks. Boy, was that 2 very hectic weeks! But, we survived, and I’m back at it! And, I’m here to give you all a NEW PATTERN! Woohoo! I hope you guys enjoy this one, because it’s one of my favorites! (Who am I kidding? They’re all my favorites!)

ABOUT THIS Design:

This is the Autumnity Tunic Dress. It is a raglan-style A-line garment that can be worn as either a tunic of a dress depending on how long you decide to knit it. This shape is flattering for so many different body types! And, bonus, the pattern directions are size inclusive! We have directions for sizes S - 4XL!

This dress is really easy to modify to fit you as well. If you’d like a more form-fitting dress, choose a size that gives you less positive ease. If you’re really hankering for a nice over sized tunic style, then choose the size that gives you all that wonderful positive ease. It really is up to you how you’d like to wear it!

The sample dress is knit with Aran/Worsted weight 4 yarn and 6.5mm needles to give it a nice loose drape.

I hope you all love this tunic dress as much as I do!

THANK YOU! to all my wonderful testers!

Lizzy, Emily, Larissa, Ginger, Tammy, Rachel, Ebonny, Danielle and Kendra

I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

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WHAT YOU NEED:

Needles: Size 6.5mm circular needles or size needed to obtain gauge (see notes for more information)

Yarn: Worsted/Aran Weight 4 yarn. Sample knit in Lion Brand Pound of Love. Approx. 850(900, 1000, 1150, 1250, 1460, 1500) yards

Gauge: 15 st/21 rows = 4” in stockinette

Other: waste yarn or st holders, an extra circular cable (see notes)

Suggested Bust Measurements: S: 32”-35”, M: 36”-39”, L: 40”-43”, XL: 44”-47”, 2XL: 48”-51”, 3XL: 52”-55”, 4XL: 56”-58”

Finished Garment: finished garments has about +2” to -2” ease, Bust:  S: 34", M: 38”, L: 42”, XL: 46”, 2XL: 50”, 3XL: 54”, 4XL: 58” Length: variable. Chart on last page.

Model: model is 4’11”, 38” bust, 27.5” waist, 40” hips wearing a medium with 0” positive ease in bust

ABBREVIATIONS:

CO: cast on. I used the long tail CO.
RS: right side
WS: wrong side
St/sts: stitch/stitches
Inc: increase row
Pm: place stitch marker
Marker: the stitch marker that is next in the pattern.
Sm: slip marker from left needle to right.
Rep: repeat
Cont: continue
K: knit
P: purl
KFSB: knit front slip back. This is an increase st. Knit the stitch as normal, but do not slip it off the left needle after knitting. Slip the right hand needle through the back loop of the same st you just knitted, and slip the st off the needle.
M1: make one. This is an increase st. Make one can be a number of different types of increase sts; you can make one right or left. Or, at this part of the pattern, you can use k1fb or KFSB. I used KFSB throughout my tunic. 
M1p: make one purlwise. With the left needle, pick up the horizontal strand between the last stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from front to back, then purl through back loop of the strand. This makes a left-leaning increase on the right, or knit, side of the fabric.
C4b: cable 4 back. Slip 2 st onto the cable needle. With the cable needle held in the back of the work, k2 from the left hand needle, then k2 from the cable needle.
C4f: cable 4 forward. Slip 2 st onto the cable needle. With the cable needle held in front of the work, k2 from the left hand needle, then k2 from the cable needle.
C6f: cable 6 forward. Slip 3 st onto the cable needle. With the cable needle held in front of the work, k3 from the left hand needle, then k3 from the cable needle.
Ssk: slip, slip, knit. Slip the first stitch as if to knit onto right-hand needles, slip the second stitch as if to knit, then slide the left-hand needle into the front part of both stitches and knit them together.
K2tog: knit two together
Knit Straight: knit in pattern without making any increases or decreases until you reach the required number of rows.
BOR: beginning of row
MD: mitered decrease. Slip next 2 sts knitwise onto your right-hand needle and k the next st, sl both slipped sts over the last knitted st at the same time and off right hand needle. A good video of this is here by VeryPink Knits: https://youtu.be/jjUN_hTwbCE
BO: bind off. Make sure you bind off loosely so that the ribbing on the bottom has a good stretch.

Notes:

• Basic Raglan Shaping: Raglans are created in 4 sections: The front, the back, and 2 sleeves. When you cast on, you CO 1 st for the front, the top of sleeve #1, the back of neck, the top of sleeve #2, and 1 st for the other side of the front. Then, you create paired inc (1 st on either side of each stitch marker) on every RS row and 1 st on either side of the front according to the chart below until it is time to join the front. Then, you no longer have a WS row and you continue to knit in the round.

• Ease: The pattern is written without waist shaping. If you want a more form-fitting tunic, choose the size that gives you zero or a few inches negative ease (be mindful of your hip area). If you’d like a tunic that is looser, choose a size that gives you more positive ease

• Neckline: This top has a V neckline, and the neckline chart below will tell you on which rows to inc. The inc start by being knit on every RS row the same as the raglan line. But, they will change to every 3rd row at a certain point. This is to maintain a smooth v-neck line. Once you reach the number of rows/sts needed for the neckline, you will join the 2 front portions together and cont. by knitting in the round. (no more WS)

• Bust/Sleeves/Yoke: You will cont. knitting in the round, making paired inc in both the bust and sleeves until you reach the row/number of sts needed for each section according to your size in the chart below. Be aware, bust and sleeve increases finish on different rows to maintain correct shaping and fit.

• Length: As you get towards the bottom of the tunic, you'll want to try it on. If you're short like me (4'11", 150cm) you might want to finish a few rows early like I did. Also, if you're taller than average, you might want to add a couple rows/repeats at the end. (remember it will be a bit longer after blocking). Be aware, if you stop early and do not do all the increases, you will have fewer stitches when you separate the front and back for the bottom band. You will still be slipping 7 sts to start it.

• Knitting needles/extra cable: Make sure you either use circular needles with a cable that is long enough to try your top on as you knit or that you have waste yarn you can slip the stitches onto for when it’s time to check the fit. This is key to being able to figure out the length of sections such as the yoke and hemline. Also, having an extra circular needle cable will help with knitting the ribbing along the bottom of the tunic.

THE Schematic:

THE PATTERN:

For the free pattern of this design please continue on this page. Please consider supporting me by purchasing the 100% ad-free PDF with full tapestry charts for this pattern on my Ravelry or ETSY pages. Or consider joining my Patreon for member perks.

The chart below will tell you at what row your increases for each section will finish, and also on what row you will finish the yoke and separate the sleeves from the body. Refer to this chart as you knit your sweater. Neckline increases are shown in italic.

Yoke:

CO 44(48, 54, 58, 60, 66, 68) st

Set Up Row (WS): p1, pm, p2, pm, p7(7, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11), pm, p2, pm, p20(24, 26, 30, 32, 34, 36), pm, p2, pm, p7(7, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11), pm, p2, pm, p1

Row 1 (RS) (inc):  KFSB, sm, k2, sm, KFSB, k to 1 st before marker, KFSB, sm, k2, sm, KFSB, k to 1 st before marker, KFSB, sm, k2, sm, KFSB, k to 1 st before marker, KFSB, sm, k2, sm, KFSB [52(56, 62, 66, 68, 74, 76)sts]

Row 2 and all WS rows: p all sts, sm as you come to them.

Row 3 (inc):  KFSB, KFSB, sm, k2, sm, KFSB, k to last st before marker, KFSB, sm, k2, sm, KFSB, k to 1 st before marker, KFSB, sm, k2, sm, KFSB, k to last st before marker, KFSB, sm, k2, sm, KFSB, KFSB [62(66, 72, 76, 78, 84, 88)sts]

For S Only: DO NOT DO the italic neckline increase on Row 5. But, follow the rest of the row directions. See below for more details

Row 5 (inc): k1, KFSB, k to 1 st before marker, KFSB,  sm, k2, sm, KFSB, k to 1 st before marker, KFSB, sm, k2, sm, KFSB, k to 1 st before marker, KFSB, sm, k2, sm, KFSB, k to 1 st before marker, KFSB, sm, k2, sm, KFSB, k to 2 sts before end, KFSB, k1 [72(76, 82, 86, 88, 94, 96)sts]

Cont. making the 8 raglan increases every other row as written in Row 5 (one st on either side of each st marker, increases on RS/odd rows). However, in order to make the v-neck, the front neckline of the sweater (the first and last increases starting on Row 3, shown in italic above) will increase independently from the raglan increases. The front neckline will cont. to increase according to the chart below. Some of your increases will be on the WS to maintain a smooth neckline. Use m1p on the WS increases on the neckline.

Joining Neckline:

At the end of Row 29(33, 33, 35, 37, 39, 43), cut your yarn leaving a tail to weave in later. With RS facing you, sl all the front sts on the left needle to the right needle purl wise without knitting them until you reach the first raglan marker (these sts will now be knit at the end of the row), place a unique marker. This is your new BOR. 

Front and back should have: 50(58, 60, 66, 70, 74, 80)

Sleeves should have: 37(41, 43, 45, 47, 51, 55)

Round 30(34, 34, 36, 38, 40, 44): Reattach the yarn and cont. knitting in pattern until you come back around to the front. Knit across the front and join the neckline when you reach it by simply knitting over it. Remember that now that you have joined to knit in the round, there is no longer a WS, but we will still only be inc on the odd rows and you will knit stitches on the even rows instead of purling them.

Cont. in pattern for your size until the top reaches the designated number of rows for your sleeves, bust/body, and yoke size (see Increase Chart Above). When you reach the row that you will be separating the sleeves, go to “Separating Sleeves”

Separating Sleeves (end of Yoke):

At this point, your top should reach to a little bit higher than mid-bust. If it needs a couple more rows to reach, knit straight for a few more rows. We will then be placing the sts for the sleeves onto waste yarn to be finished later. Also, you will be casting on your underarm sts to complete the bust and sleeve circumference now. Remember that the 2 sts trapped in your raglan lines will now be split, one going to the body and one to the sleeves from each line.

Round 37(37, 42, 45, 48, 51, 58): At BOR, remove BOR marker,  *knit 1st st from the seam (that st belongs to the body), next, without knitting, transfer 2nd st from seam, the 37(41, 45, 47, 49, 51, 55) sleeve sts, and 1st st of the next seam onto waste yarn [39(43, 47, 49, 51, 53, 57)sts total]. On the right needle, CO 5(5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) sts, pm (this is your new temporary BOR marker. Use a unique marker so it’s recognizable.). [Also, mark this spot on both sides to pick up the sleeves later, see image]  CO 5(5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7)sts, remove sleeve markers.* Join the back to the front side by knitting the next seam st and continue knitting in pattern across to the next raglan marker. At the next raglan marker repeat * *. The marker you place on this side is NOT your BOR. Join the back to the front. Knit back to your BOR. 128(144, 160, 172, 188, 204, 220) sts on needles.

Go to Part 2

Happy Creating!

IF YOU LIKED THIS PATTERN, PLEASE SUPPORT ME ON PATREON OR BUY ME A COFFEE!

I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

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Hi! I’m Rachel.

I’m a quirky world traveller, avid knitter, crochet lover, pattern maker, and all around nerd! I spend a lot of time clowning around, and I often have the goofiest smile on my face. This website is the landing place for my new patterns, random thoughts, and general craziness. I hope you enjoy my randomness and my yarnie goodness!