A common query is whether exterior doors to a building will require the installation of a panic device. Whether you’re working on a school, a high-hazard occupancy, a place of assembly, or another facility, determining the panic hardware requirements for the building should be high-priority.

The International Building Code (IBC) is used in the majority of jurisdictions, but some states and local areas have their own laws on panic hardware requirements. For some facilities, it is mandatory to follow Life Safety Code (NFPA 101) or National Electrical Code (NFPA 70).

Having a panic device in place is vitally important when exiting the building in an emergency. It’s useful to have panic devices installed even when it isn’t a panic hardware requirement by code. Sometimes, though, it’s more practical to have it installed only when necessary.  

There are a few key pieces of information to know when panic device installation is mandatory by code or law. Here, we walk you through understanding the basics of panic hardware requirements.

Codes For Doors that Lock or Latch

Aside from codes, there are other factors that should be considered when choosing whether to install a panic device on a building door. Does the door lock or latch? Apply the following rules to doors that lock or latch. (The following does not apply to doors with push/pull hardware with no lock or latch).

All editions of the IBC from 2006 and forward state three specific panic hardware requirements. According to these code editions, a panic device is necessary for doors in assembly occupancies that hold 50 people or more, in educational facilities that hold 50 people or more, and in high-hazard facilities that hold any amount of people. 

NFPA 101 and NFPA 70 Panic Hardware Requirements

Some buildings must follow NFPA 101. Under this code, exit devices must be present on doors located in assembly occupancies with an occupancy load of 100 people or more, educational facilities of 100 people or more, daycare centers of 100 people or more, and high-hazard facilities of more than five people.

Panic devices are also mandatory on doors that lock or latch in some rooms containing electrical equipment. The NFPA 70 code has panic hardware requirements for these doors sitting within 25 feet of the required working space for rooms that hold specific electrical equipment. This includes equipment with a nominal voltage of 1,000; equipment of more than 800 amperes with overcurrent, switching, or control devices; battery rooms; transformer vaults; and energy storage system rooms.

Chapter 1 of the NFPA 70 2023 edition states that personnel doors must open 90 degrees or more in the direction of exiting traffic. According to Chapter 6, for Modular Data Centers there must be one entrance/exit door at each end of the working space that is equipped with a specific panic device OR fire exit hardware. Certain panic hardware requirements may also apply to mechanical rooms such as boiler rooms.

More Panic Device Rules and Regulations 

There are a number of other panic hardware requirements to consider when ordering your device. The touch-pad or cross-bar of the panic device must be half the width (or more) of a single door. Nowadays, this hardware must be mounted 34 to 48 inches above the floor. 

Doors with panic hardware requirements must not have any other locks installed on them or anything that could stop the latch from being released when pressing the touch-pad or cross-bar. Panic devices with electromagnetic locks, or delayed or controlled egress are exempt from this rule.

Panic devices on fire doors must meet the qualifications of fire exit hardware by complying with specific fire testing standards. Some regions also require doors and panic devices to comply with testing standards for protection against hurricanes and tornadoes.

Panic Device Tips

Whether you are using a cross-bar, touch-pad, rim, mortise, or vertical rod, we hope this information helps you determine what codes and requirements your panic device must adhere to.  Keep these general tips in mind when you are ready to have a panic device installed on doors in your building. 

In general, residential buildings, office buildings, and retail stores do not have any panic hardware requirements, unless any portion of the building matches the ones described above. Remember, even if your building doesn’t have any panic hardware requirements, a panic device can always be installed for security purposes.

The staff at Robert Brooke & Associates knows how confusing navigating panic hardware requirements can be. Our experts can answer any related questions you may have about your project.

By the Editor

Caitlin Renton

We often get the question, “How do you remove one-way screws from toilet partitions and other hardware?” If you were the person who originally installed the one-way screw, you probably thought you would never have to unscrew it. It is possible, however, that you will run into a situation someday where you will want to undo it.

It is also possible that you will come across one-way screws in your home or at your place of work that someone else had previously installed. If you are making renovations to your home or doing construction for a business, you may one day find that you need to remove a one-way screw in order to remodel it the way you see fit.

One-way screws, also commonly referred to as security screws, are made with the purpose of being difficult to unscrew. These anti-theft screws are meant to be permanently screwed into a piece of equipment, such as toilet partitions, without ever having to be removed. Their intended use is to prevent unauthorized individuals from unscrewing them and from potentially vandalizing something that is not their property.

One-way screws only twist in one direction, clockwise. In other words, they are only meant to be tightened and not loosened. This means that, although you probably used a regular screwdriver to install the security screw, you will be unable to use that same screwdriver to undo it.

Should the situation ever arise that you need to remove a security screw from a toilet stall or from another type of fixture in a public restroom, you can use a one-way screw removal tool, which is also known as an undo it tool. We have provided some helpful tips and tricks below on how to remove one-way screws by using these one-way screw removers.

Selecting Your One-Way Screw Remover

An un-do-it removal tool or a one-way screw remover will appear similar to your typical screwdrivers. The head of a one-way screw remover differs in that it has two pins to help with gripping the screw. It is not impossible to remove one-way screws if you know where to purchase the right one-way screw remover for the job.

You can find these undo it tools sold online in either singles or in three packs. Be sure to read the product description and order the correct one-way screw remover tool that will properly extract your specific model of screw.

One-way screw remover tools are offered in specific sizes and each size will only work on a designated size of screw. For instance, the Toilet Partition One-Way Screw Remover for #12 & #14 Screw should be used to unscrew #12 and #14 security screws. The Toilet Partition One-Way Screw Remover for #8 & #10 Screw will work on #8 and #10 security screws and the Toilet Partition One-Way Screw Remover for #6 & #8 Screw will work on #6 and #8 security screws.

Using A One-Way Security Screw Removal Tool

Once you have the correct one-way screw remover in your possession, you can begin the process of unscrewing the security screw. You can learn how to remove one-way security screws with your new one-way screw extractor tool by following these simple steps.

To remove the security screw from your toilet partition or from another surface, you will want to begin by lining up the end of the tool to the screw. Make sure that the two pins are placed directly into the holes or slots that are found on the screw head. To make it a little bit easier, hit the top of the one-way screw remover lightly with a hammer in order to make slight divots in the head of the screw.

Using your one-way screw removal tool or one-way screw extractor, press down and twist the security screw counter-clockwise or lefty-loosey. Try to keep a firm grip on the handle of the one-way screw remover and continue to press down while twisting it to the left. The security screw should soon begin to loosen and ultimately pop out of the surface in no time.

Follow these quick steps and you will soon be on your way to properly using your new one-way tamper-proof screw removal tool. For more tips on how to use other similar tools and equipment, be sure to read more posts on our blog.

Double- and single- hung windows are held open by “window balances”, also known as “sash supports”. When a sash support is not functioning properly, your window will not stay open—when opened, it’ll just fall back to the closed position. This can happen to older windows, as the tension of the sash support is reduced by the opening and the closing on the window after a long period of time. This can be bothersome to people who enjoy fresh air in their home, especially during the summer months. It can also be dangerous, as fingers could get crushed by the unexpected falling of the window. Instead of replacing the full window, which can get expensive, you can replace just the window balance. Replacing a window balance can be done relatively quickly and easily.

Replacing the Sash Support/Window Balance

Your window may not be staying open because of a malfunctioning sash support. There are two different kinds of sash supports—channel and tube. Both channel and tube window balances require different replacement techniques, but both can be done by a novice in about an hour.

Tube Spiral Window Balance Replacement

• Begin by unlocking your window and raising the sash 6 to 8 inches. Next, you’ll begin tilting out the sash to gain access to the slide where the bottom of the balance attaches.
• Release the sash by lifting up one side of it towards the ceiling.
• Unscrew or unsnap the sash stops from the window frame. You will now have access to the spiral window balance.
• On the bottom sash, remove the top screw in the top corner of the jamb, meanwhile holding the tube in place. These screws can be difficult to remove, and if they won’t move, try wedging a pry-bar behind the tube to try and pry the screws out.
• Next, you’ll remove the support bracket. You’ll do this by removing the one or two screws that hold this bracket in place. Be careful when removing these screws, because the spiral balances will spin because of the tension they are under.
• Now that you have removed your broken spiral window balance, it’s time to install the replacement. Though this replacement can be done by one person, it’s helpful to have someone hold the sash in place while you’re working. If no one is available to help you, use a block of wood to hold up the sash.
• Set the sash in place. Do this by setting the top sash in its track and let it rest on the sill. Do this for the bottom sash as well.
• Repeat the next steps for both balances on each side of the sash. Drop the balance with the bracket end first into the mortise on the side of the sash. It will slide all the way down to rest on the sill while you hold the top of the tube above the sash.
• Attach the tube by pulling it all the way up to the top of the jamb letting the spiral fall into the sash mortise. Attach the tub with a 1 ½-inch wood screw.
• Grasp the bracket and spin it clockwise to add tension to the balance. Turn it until the bracket is almost at the bottom of the tube and pull it down about 6-8 inches and turn it until it makes it way back to the tube again.
• Get a 1-inch wood screw to attach the bracket onto the bottom of the sash. Attach two screws if your bracket accepts two screws.
• Test it by putting the window in different positions to make sure the tension is right. Tension can always be adjusted if needed.
• Once you put the stops back on, your spiral window balance installation has been completed.

Channel Window Balance Replacement

You have now completed your DIY home window repair! DIY projects don’t only save money, they can give you useful skills as well. Now, give yourself a pat on the back and enjoy your new-and-improved window.

Contact us at Home Window Repair if you have any questions about your sash support replacement.

A commercial door closer is an installed hardware device that creates a vacuum. This vacuum pulls the connector arm back, which closes a door after it’s been opened. Door closers can be used for commercial doors and residential doors but are more typically used commercially. Door closers need to be checked regularly as they may need adjustment or repair frequently. There are a variety of reasons why your commercial door closer may not be working properly and finding out why will help you determine what steps you need to take to repair your door closer. However, it’s important to not waste your time on incorrectly installed door closers, as they will not work properly and will have to be reinstalled.

Door Closes Too Fast, Too Slow, or Slams Shut

If you are having a problem with your door closer’s closing speed, you’ll need to turn the speed adjustment screw. To slow the door closers closing speed, turn the screw clockwise. To increase the speed, turn the screw counterclockwise. If you want to prevent the door from slamming shut, you’ll need to adjust the latch speed with the latch adjustment screw. Like the speed adjustment screw, if you want to slow the door closer, turn the latch adjustment screw clockwise, or counterclockwise to increase the speed.

Lubricating Door Closers

Old door closers and door closers that have been exposed to outdoor elements may need lubrication to begin functioning correctly again. If there is any rust, use the rust remover and begin lubricating the door closer with the grease gun.

Door Closer Does Not Close Completely

If your door does not close completely, you’ll need to adjust the bracket. The bracket attaches the door closer to the door. Open the door and loosen the screws holding the bracket on the door and move the bracket more toward the door handle. Refasten the screws and check if your door is closing completely. If it still doesn’t, try removing the pin that secures the control arm to the bracket and move it to a hole that is farther away.

Door Closer is Leaking Oil

Leaking oil can cause the door closer to seize in place. To fix this, remove the adjusting screw. Then, use the rust remover to clean the screw and replace the O-ring. Make sure to lubricate before replacing the adjusting screw. Fasten the adjusting screw to the desired closing or latching speed level. Afterward, make sure no fluid is leaking and that the door closer is working properly.

Adjusting your door closer may need to be done occasionally. Luckily, it can be done quickly and easily by beginners. However, if none of these repairs work for your door closer, you may need to have it reinstalled or buy a replacement door closer.

This guide will go over how to install bathroom partitions, also known as toilet partitions. To put it simply, toilet partitions are used in public bathrooms to ensure privacy between the stalls. Toilet partitions are used mostly commercially, like in office buildings and schools. They come in many different types and materials, including solid plastic, stainless steel, plastic laminate, and more. This beginner’s guide is putting more of a focus on power coated and stainless-steel bathroom partition hardware installation. Reading this guide will help you better understand the specific directions to install the bathroom partition you’re working on.

Tools Required to Perform a Commercial Bathroom Partition Installation:

• Hammer
• Hammer Drill
• Hacksaw
• Chalkline
• Tape Measure
• 4 ft. level
• Screwdriver Bits
• Drill Bits
• Shim Block

Instructions on How to Install a Bathroom Partition

Before you begin, make sure the area where you will be installing the toilet partition is clean and free of any debris. Read the instructions that have come with the bathroom partition parts, each partition may have differing instructions based on the type and the material of the partition. Lastly confirm that floors and wall can support the bathroom partition.

Wall and Floor Brackets

1. Lay out the floor plates and wall brackets. Find and mark pilaster center line from back wall and find and mark panel center lines for wall brackets. Mark it with something that can be easily erased or removed.
2. Establish pilaster floor fastener locations from side wall according to instructions found with the bathroom partition parts.
3. Mark wall bracket holes.
4. Next, you will begin to drill holes for the wall brackets and floor fastenings.
5. Insert the anchoring devices in walls and then secure the wall brackets.
6. Then you’ll insert the expansion shields. The shoe clips and “L” brackets should be positioned over expansion shield and secured loosely with screws. Securing it loosely will allow for lateral pilaster adjustment later.

Positioning the Panel

1. Place the panel on a support, approximately 12 inches above the floor.
2. Set it into the wall brackets, but don’t fasten the panel.

Preparing the Pilasters

1. Place the U-brackets in position on rear of pilasters. This placement will be determined by the instruction drawings that came with the job and/or the toilet partition parts.
2. Fasten the U-brackets to pilaster with sheet metal screws.

Installing the Pilasters

1. For bowing, inspect the stainless-steel shoe. If it is wide, squeeze edges and center. This will prevent the shoe will not bow away from pilaster faces. To prevent avoid sliding, fasten the shoe with painter’s tape.
2. Place the pilaster between the “L” brackets and fasten loosely with screws at drilled locations at each side.

Securing Pilasters and Panels

1. Plumb each pilaster and fasten the pilaster to the panel using the “U” brackets and sheet metal screws.
2. Setting the pilaster mounting will establish the door openings.
3. Tighten the self-tapping screw to “L” brackets
4. Slide shoe down to floor level, engaging the shoe clips.
5. Remove the panel support device.

Next, you’ll prepare the door for hanging, erect the remaining compartments, secure headrail brackets, and place headrail. Depending on the materials and what type of toilet partition you have, instructions for this procedure may be different. Good luck on your toilet stall partition installation!

The Bathroom Partition Panel Bracket Kit, we have seen the light. We used to sell Bathroom Partition Panel Brackets individually, and we still do, but now we offer the Bathroom Partition Panel Bracket Kit. Purchasing these packages is now just one click away.

The Bathroom Partition Panel Bracket Kit is for use on powder coated steel and plastic laminate restroom stall panels. The panels are what divide the stalls and are mounted to the wall and the pilaster post. We usually find the one and two ear brackets mounted on the wall, and the “U” brackets mounted to the pilaster. The panel along with the headrail provide the rigidity to the compartments.

Each Bathroom Partition Panel Bracket Kit includes all the hardware to mount one restroom panel. The packages include two “U”, and two either One Ear or Two Ear Brackets depending on the package you choose. A One Ear Bracket has one mounting hole off to the side of the piece. The Two Ear Brackets have an ear on both sides of the bracket. The components are made of Zamac die cast metal that is then chrome plated and polished. Each kit also includes the eight wall anchors, eight one way sheet metal screws, eight machine screws and eight barrel nuts. The screws are the tamper proof one way type.

Bathroom Stall Panel Kits are an easier way to purchase the hardware you need.

We are currently offering the Bathroom Partition Panel Bracket Kit for 3/4″ thick and 1″ thick panels. If you have a different thickness panel, or are looking for help or advise, our Toilet Partition experts are here to help.

Is your Door Closer slamming? If it is we can help. They usually slam for a couple of reasons. The first being they are out of adjustment, either by wear and tear, or environmental issues. The second reason is due to failure of a seal or other component. By teaching you how to adjust it, and looking for telltale signs of the cause, we are here to help.

The first thing to understand is how a door closer works. Inside the cast aluminum or cast iron cylinder we have a spring pushing a piston. The piston is connected to a rack and pinion type device. When the closer opens, the arm which is connected to the spindle, moves the rack, which loads the spring. On the backside of the piston we have a fluid, which is usually something along the line of automatic transmission fluid. When the door is open, the spring pushes the fluid through channels in the casting. In each of the channels we have a control valve. This control valve regulates how fast the fluid is allowed to flow through the channel, which controls the closing speed. Think of it as a nozzle on your garden hose.

We usually have two valves that control the closing speed on commercial door closers. One valve is the Sweep Speed and the other is the Latching Speed. The Sweep Speed controls the amount of time it takes the door to sweep from 70 degrees open to about 15 degrees. The Latching Speed controls the amount of time it takes the door to move from 15 degrees open to the fully closed position. To slow either of these speeds, just tighten (clockwise) the adjustment screws, this will slow the speed of the hydraulic fluid through the channels, and slow the closer down.

Components of a door closer cylinder

The Sweep and Latching Speed valves are usually marked with a letter or number. The Sweep Speed valves are usually marked “C”, “S” or “1”, depending on the brand. The US made closers usually use the “C” or “S”, the imported closers usually use the number “1”. The Latching Speed valves are usually marked “L” or the number “2”.

The other adjustments we see on door closers are Back Check, Power, and Delayed Action. Back Check is the amount of resistance the door closer offers if it is thrown open by wind or vandals. Back Check usually starts at about 70 degrees and up. Power is usually on the end of the cylinder, and it is essentially a jack screw that increases or decreases the spring tension. The Power screw is also usually a larger screw or set screw. Delayed action is a valve to will hold the door open for up to 30 seconds to allow handicapped or the elderly through a door. For the Delayed Action to work the door must be opened to about 90 degrees.

If your Door Closer is slamming we need to look at a few things. The first thing I would do is inspect the door closer and look for any signs of fluid. Another thing to look for broken components on the arms, make sure everything is nice and tight. One of the last things would be the environment, has the weather changed, is the air conditioning now on?

Why do we inspect for fluid? One of the main reasons a door closer slams is the hydraulic fluid has leaked out, either threw the adjustment valves or the spindle seal. The spindle is what the arms attaches to, and they do fail, especially when the closer is mounted on the header, or top jamb. In these types of applications, the header tends to flex, which causes the closer to rock, which in turn wears out the seal. When the fluid has leaked out their is nothing to retard the motion, and the closer slams. What I would do is tighten the Closing and Latching Valves all the way, and then back them off a 1/2 turn. If it still slams then, the closer is shot.

The environment plays a roll sometimes. If your door closer is sitting in the sun, the casting will heat up, and the oil will become very thin, and fly through the valves. I would try the same thing as we did above, tighten the Closing and Latching Valves all the way, and then back them off a 1/2 turn.

Now we have either solved your door closer issue, or created a new one. If we have solved the issue, congratulations! If not, we need to get your door closer repaired, or replaced. When it comes to repairing them, I have had awful luck. After spending a couple of hours, the closer works and within a week it is leaking again. Replacing them might be the most cost effective way to get this thing fixed before someone gets hurt.

If you have an American made and manufactured door closer, they usually have a 10 to 25 year warrantee. The problem usually arises that you can not remember who you purchased it from, which the factories require. The factories usually want to know the Purchase Order Number the closer was purchased on. If your door closer is an imported version, usually the easiest way is to purchase another one, they are usually in the $50.00 range. We have our door closer information page on our website that lays out all of the door closer hole spacings and the models that are available with that pattern.

Scranton Products are designed to be Worry Free Partitions. You may have seen their slogan on their slide bolt latches, “Scranton Products: Designed to be Worry Free”. They are more popularly known as Hiny Hiders, Eclipse, or Resistall Bathroom Stall Partitions.

The Hiny Hiders Partitions, Eclipse and Resistall offer different appearances or designs. The Hiny Hider line is what you visually expect from toilet partitions, boxy with gaps, and very institutional. The Eclipse line uses metal framing instead of pilasters, so it has a cleaner look. The Resistall line are very light weight, because they use two 1/8″ thick sheets that are bonded together, instead of the standard 7/8″ thick solid plastic.

The Hiny Hider Bathroom Stalls are constructed of 7/8″ to 1″ thick solid plastic HDPE, that have the same color through out the material. The pilasters are 1″ thick and the doors and panels are 7/8″ thick. They are available in a large selection of colors, and can be mounted ceiling hung, floor mounted or floor to ceiling. These are very rugged partitions, and are perfect for Schools, Government Buildings, and any high moisture areas like locker rooms.

Scranton Products Hiny Hider Bathroom Partitions

The Eclipse Bathroom Stalls are a newer style in partitions. Instead of a matching color pilaster, you have a metal frame. The benefit of the metal framing is higher privacy, hidden brackets, and easier installation. Installation is much easier because the framing can be easily trimmed in the field to accommodate uneven floor and walls.

Scranton Products Eclipse Bathroom Stalls

The Resistall Bathroom Stalls are engineered plastic, offer quick installation, have paneled aesthetics, and are priced comparable to metal partitions. On this line only Scranton Products takes two 1/8″ thick sheets and bonds or fuses them together for the panels and doors. The pilasters are still 1″ thick to provide the highest rigidity. This creates a very strong, yet light door, panel or pilaster. Because the pieces are lighter weight, they are very easy to move around into position. The doors also offer an aesthetically pleasing paneled door look. Solid plastic partitions are an investment, but with this product line, the prices are comparable to powder coated steel.

Scranton Products Resistall Bathroom Stalls, notice the paneled doors

All of Scranton Product restroom stalls are made of the HDPE Solid Plastic, which is one of the best materials for partitions. Solid Plastic is waterproof, graffiti and vandal resistant, will not corrode or delaminate, will not dent, and will never need to be painted. You can clean this material with a power washer, steam cleaner and it is resistant to most chemical cleaners. And the Scranton Products plastic come with a Class A, B and C Fire Rating. The material is 100% recyclable, and is already using a high recyclable content. All of their brands are GREENGUARD Gold Certified, which means strict requirements are met to ensure low VOC emissions. The HDPE solid plastic also resists bacteria, mold, mildew and fungus.

Scranton Products has been manufacturing some of the best partitions for the past 25 years. They have been a leader in HDPE Solid Plastic manufacturing processes to provide the highest quality and innovative products in industry today. Their products are strong, low maintenance, and good looking. All of the Scranton Product lines ship quickly from Scranton, Pennsylvania, usually within 2-3 weeks. If you need assistant designing your new or are renovating your existing restrooms, or are looking for help with Hiny Hider replacement hardware, our knowledgeable staff is always willing to help.

We sell many components for Bathroom Stalls, and we are often asked the same questions. So, we have put together a Bathroom Stall Door User Guide. We will cover materials, hardware, and constructions methods.

We find six major materials used for Bathroom Stall Doors. The first and most popular is Powder Coated Steel, but we also see Plastic Laminate, Solid Polymer Plastic, Stainless Steel, Solid Phenolic Color Thru, and Solid Phenolic Black Core.

Powder Coated Steel Bathroom Stall Doors are very economical. They are constructed with an inner honeycomb core bonded to the 22 gauge steel with a non-toxic adhesive. This ensures solid construction and great sound attenuation. The honeycomb is a cellular material that is firm for support and light, so the doors weight less, but have great strength. The door is then assembled with a continuous roll-formed interlocking crown molding on the edges, the corners are then welded and ground smooth. A Powder Coated Bathroom Stall Door is usually 1″ thick and 58″ high. They ship for openings 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, and 36″ width. If you are ordering a Powder Coated Bathroom Stall Door you need to know that the door will come 3/8″ narrower than the opening. So a 34″ door will actually be 33-5/8″ wide.

Hadrian Bathroom Stall Door in Powder Coated Steel

Plastic Laminate Bathroom Stall Doors are at the next price point. Plastic Laminate Doors use a particle board core that has a 45 pound density that is 7/8″ thick to resist warping and ensure a smooth surface. The particle board is then covered in a Wilsonart, or Formica type surface. Most factories insure the door face covers the edges to ensure water runoff and resist vandalism. One draw back on the Plastic Laminate material is moisture. We do not recommend this product for high moisture areas or closer to showers or swimming pools. A Powder Coated Bathroom Stall Door is 1″ thick and 58″ high. They ship for openings 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, and 36″ width. If you are ordering a Plastic Laminate Bathroom Stall Door you need to know that the door will come 3/8″ narrower than the opening. So a 34″ door will actually be 33-5/8″ wide.

Solid Polymer Plastic Bathroom Stall Doors, are also known as Solid Plastic, or High Density Polyethylene (HDPE). Solid Polymer Stall Doors are a great choice for high-traffic, and high-humidity areas, along with corrosive environments. They are never need painting and will not easily dent, rust or delaminate. They have a textured finish to hide the effects of vandalism, it is the low maintenance material of choice as minor scratches can often be repaired. The High Density Polyethylene (HDPE) Doors are virtually impenetrable by water, odor, mildew and soap and most commercial cleaning agents will not damage the surface. A Solid Polymer Plastic Bathroom Stall Door is 1″ thick and are 58″ high. They ship for openings 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, and 36″ width. If you are ordering a Plastic Polymer Bathroom Stall Door you need to know that the door will come 3/8″ narrower than the opening. So a 34″ door will actually be 33-5/8″ wide.

Hadrian Solid Plastic Toilet Partitions

Stainless Steel Bathroom Stall Doors are probably the most expensive. They are constructed with an inner honeycomb core bonded to the type 304 stainless steel with a non-toxic adhesive. This ensures solid construction and great sound attenuation. The honeycomb is a cellular material that is firm for support and light, so the doors weight less, but have great strength. The door is then assembled with a continuous roll-formed stainless Steel 22 gauge crown molding on the edges, the corners are then welded and ground smooth. A Stainless Steel Bathroom Stall Door is usually 1″ thick and 58″ high. They ship for openings 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, and 36″ width. If you are ordering a Stainless Steel Bathroom Stall Door you need to know that the door will come 3/8″ narrower than the opening. So a 34″ door will actually be 33-5/8″ wide.

Hadrian Bathroom Stalls and Partitions Stainless Steel Compartments

Phenolic Bathroom Stall Doors more expensive than Powder Coated Steel, Plastic Laminate and Solid Plastic, but less expensive than Stainless Steel. Phenolic Bathroom Stall Doors can have a solid color core, meaning it matches the surface color, or they can have a black core. They are fabricated by using layers of resin-impregnated kraft paper. The surface and core sheets are then fused at high temperature and pressure to make the door. The components shipping with this material are usually stronger stainless steel brackets and fasteners, to stand up to the most extreme conditions of moisture and humidity. Phenolic is impact, water and corrosion resistant, and does not support bacteria. They are a great choice where durability and strength are required. A Phenolic Bathroom Stall Door is usually 1″ thick and 58″ high. They ship for openings 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, and 36″ width. If you are ordering a Phenolic Bathroom Stall Door you need to know that the door will come 3/8″ narrower than the opening. So a 34″ door will actually be 33-5/8″ wide.

The Bathroom Stall hardware used on the different materials will also be different. The edges on the powder coated steel and stainless steel doors, panels and pilasters is almost always a round edge. The plastic laminate, solid plastic and phenolic is going to be square edged. You need to keep this in mind when ordering replacement parts, especially when it comes to the hinges, keepers, and stops. The hinges on the stainless steel and powder coated steel are usually wrap around hinges, the hinges on the phenolic doors are the vault hinges.

Hadrian Bathroom Stalls and Partitions are on one of the best products in the toilet partition industry. Because they only produce powder coated steel, stainless steel and solid plastic restroom stalls, they are able to focus all energy to manufacture the best possible product. They are also able to have some of the quickest turn around ship times. If you are giving your commercial restroom a facelift, or have a new construction project, we can help design your new bathroom. We also carry all of the replacement parts and hardware to keep your new or existing bathroom stalls working properly.

Hadrian was founded in 1983 when two man purchased the Toilet Partition division of Westeel Corporation. They named their new company after the Hadrian’s Wall, the famous wall that runs along the northern edge of Britain. Their first product was just powder coated steel. Today they offer powder coated steel, stainless steel and solid plastic.

The Hadrian powder coated steel partitions are known for there clean edges and corners. All of the doors, panels and pilasters (posts) are fully welded and internally reinforced with a full fire resistant honeycomb core. The pilaster posts also have a 20 gauge channel on the top to increase the rigidity of the compartments. The doors have a concealed latch, and all have their name proudly cast into the latches, making the identification of replacement hardware that much easier. Their ADA stalls will have a concealed latch that meets or exceeds the American Disability Act standards. These are the most economical to use.

Hadrian Bathroom Stall Door in Powder Coated Steel

The stainless steel partitions offer a modern, clean and corrosion resistant look for any restroom. The corners and edges are completely welded, and also have a fire resistant honeycomb interior for better sound absorption and dent resistances. The stainless steel components are resistant to power washing, chemical cleaners and other cleaning substances. The doors have a concealed latch, and all have their name proudly cast into the latches, making the identification of replacement hardware that much easier. Their ADA stalls will have a concealed latch that meets or exceeds the American Disability Act standards.

Hadrian Bathroom Stalls and Partitions Stainless Steel Compartments

Hadrian is known through out the world for the their Solid Plastic or HDPE partitions. The solid plastic bathroom stalls are high density polyethylene plastic that have the same color throughout the material. They also install an aluminum strip in the bottom of the doors and panels to increase rigidity. The HDPE bathroom stalls are ideal for areas of heavy use, high moisture, and corrosive environments, and are easily cleaned with power washers and just about any chemical cleaning agent. We usually find these in use in Schools, Parks, and Government Buildings.

Hadrian Solid Plastic Toilet Partitions

When is comes to the environment, Hadrian is on the top of all the manufactures. There steel and stainless steel partitions are 91% recycled content. The solid plastic bathroom stalls are 90%, with the option for 100% recycled content if you would like. They also use a low volatile emission paints on there powder coated steel partitions.

We offer a full range of replacement hardware for Hadrian Bathroom Stalls and Partitions. We have in stock all of the hinges, latches, coat hooks, and any thing else you will need.