Laying ceramic tiles can tricky for new comers but rewarding when the job in finished nicely. I’m sure you have seen tiles that have been laid properly on floors, they look great. However, if they have been laid badly you will see it straight away and when you walk on them they are not completely flat. So how do you get it right?

1. Tile On A Flat Surface.
   

   A very rough tiling surface

   First thing you need to know about tiling is that they can only be as good as the surface that you lay them on. If the floor or walls are rough your finished tile job will be rough because the tiles follow the surface they are laid on. So if your floor is rough, or it has highs and lows, it must be corrected before you lay tiles. So, how do you correct a floor? If it is a timber floor you will need to sand the floor flat if it is uneven. This is done by getting a floor sander and running over the high spots. For concrete floors that are uneven you use floor leveling compound which is a self leveling cement that is spread thinly across the surface of the floor. However this does not apply to bathroom floors as they need to slope to a drain.

2. Always Use The Right Type Of Tile Glue. I never use premixed tile glue as this type of glue is weaker and dries slowly. However dry power gule that is mixed with water or a premixed liquid will chemically set and is much stronger. For floors and walls it is best to use a flexible tile adhesive as this type of glue will move with the house and helps stop the tiles from cracking. If you get a lot of house movement then it should just crack along the grout lines which is easily repaired. So flexible tile glue is the way to go.
3. Always Use the Correct Glue Trowel. For best results you must use the right sized notched trowel to spread the glue. For example use a 12mm or 1/2 inch notched trowel for 300 x 300mm or 12 inch x 12 inch. Your tile supplier will be able to advise you on the correct sized notched trowel for your ceramic tiles. Spread the glue in a even coat on the surface without any lumps or glue missing. The lines created by the notched trowel should be even to create a uniformed bed of tile adhesive. Also do not spread too much at once has it will start to dry out and tiles should always be laid on wet glue.
4. Lay Your Tiles Evenly And Straight.
   

   Laying Bathroom Floor Tiles

   When you start to lay your tile start from a straight wall and lay and cut the tiles to suite the rest of the walls. Firmly press the tiles into the glue as you lay them, however make sure each tile is level with the tiles next to it so there is no lip. If the tiles are laid correctly there should be no lip or extremely little. Great care should be taken to lay your tile correctly so make sure allow time to get it right as a tile laid quickly can bring many years of regret if not laid right.

5. Grout Your Tile Evenly.
   

   Grouting witha grout float

   Mix your grout to the consistency of whipped cream making sure there are no lumps in the mix. Using a grout float, spread the grout diagonally to the spaces between the tiles forcing the grout into the gaps. Make sure the grout is even and filled level with the tiles and then clean the excess off with a clean wet sponge taking care not to wipe out the grout. Don’t make the mistake of cleaning the tiles to much at this stage because you will just remove to much grout. Just remove the excess grout and wait until the grout is set and then polish anything off with with a dry rag.

If you want great results when you lay ceramic tiles follow these tile laying tips and you will be well on your way. Also check out more on  laying ceramic tiles at our renovating and remodeling information pages.

Concrete Mix Ratios as needed for smaller concreting jobs where you may be wanting to mix the concrete yourself. Concrete in its basic form is made from just 4 main materials: cement, sand, gravel, and water. For larger jobs such as driveways and house slabs the best option is premixed concrete that is delivered to site by a concrete truck. The volume of concrete needed for these large jobs would take you a very long time to hand mix even with a small cement mixer. So what about that path you want to mix yourself and fish pond or the that awesome BBQ area you have in mind.

So what are the concrete ratio? (glad you asked!!)

Concrete mixer for smaller jobs

Concrete Mix ratio – General concrete paths, driveways etc.

• Cement = 1 part
• Sand = 2.5 parts
• Gravel = 3 parts
• Water = to make the mix come together so it can be troweled.

The parts can easily be measured with a bucket however I just use the shovel as it is placed into the cement mixer and then add the water slowly with a bucket. When the water is added the cement becomes a paste and then chemically sets in 12-24 hours depending on temperature however does fully harden until 28 days. So with this in mind don’t drive on your concrete the next day unless you want rubble and a lot of cracks.

High strength concrete  – ponds, High strength structural

• Cement = 1 part
• Sand = 2 parts
• Gravel = 3 parts
• Water = to make a workable paste

I made a large pond from concrete and I used this mix and it was water tight however I the 1 part cement is a minimum  – 1 to 1.5 part cement is best. If you put less cement then water tightness will not be achieved. The other way to achieve a water tight pond is to use general use concrete and then use a paint on waterproof membrane which ensures a good result.

Gravel bring strenght to your cement

General foundation – large volume concrete

• Cement = 1 part
• Sand = 3 parts
• Gravel = 5 parts

This mix is used for filling large areas such as large strip footing and foundations. Its volume makes it strong  enough for large foundations however you will need a building engineer to make sure it is right to use for home foundations. Note this mix is too weak for use on a 100mm or 4 inch thick path.

So whether you need to make a path, repair some concrete their is an easy concrete ratio for you. The one I use most of the time is the higher strength concrete because it is easy to remember just 1,2,3.

For more  concreting check out our concrete page or home improvement pages.

Their are two main ways to install a new bath and it doesn’t really matter which one you use as long as you support the bath property. As you know baths come in many shapes and sizes from the very small, which is only good children under 3 and hamsters, to the deep spa bath which make you upgrade your hot water system just to fill it. The one thing that they all need is to be installed correctly.

Bath installation  – sand, cement and timber.

Timber bath frame

If you are installing a bath against a wall then you may have the lip of the bath notched into the timber wall studs. This means the wall sheets will come down just over the lip so that any water that is splashed up while practising your Olympic swimming will run back into the bath and not into the wall.

Step one: Measure how deep your bath is

Measure how deep your bath is and add 3 inches for the sand and cement mix. Notch out your wall studs so that the bath will sit in and level. Note that the whole lip of the bath that is against the walls should be ‘let in’ to the stud so the wall sheet can be install over the lip.

Step two: Make a timber frame

Any part of the bath lip that does not have support will need a timber frame under it. I always use treated pine for this because it will last and is inexpensive. Your frame should look like a ladder that has been laid down on it’s side. The top timber rail should be hard up under the lip of the bath and the bottom rail should sit on the floor with short timber studs in between. I use 35mm x 70mm or 1.4 inches x 2.75 inches treated pine to make the bath with 400mm or 16 inches spacing between the studs. If you have a very large spa use 45mm x 90mm or 1.8 inches x 3.5 inches treated pine.

Step three: Make sure you level room for the tiles on the front of the bath

Most people tile from the bath lip down to the floor. However when you install your timber bath frame you will need it to be in deep enough to allow for the cement based sheeting, tile glue, and the tiles. This will normally be around about 20mm or  .79 inch depending on the thickness of your tiles.

For example:

• 6mm or .236 inches Cement based cementing
• 4mm  or .157 inches Tile glue
• 10mm  or .394 inches tiles

Step four: Connect your plumbing

The bath should be installed and siting on the timber frame without the cement based sheeting. Now is the time to connect the bath waste pipe to the bath. You should make sure the bath and the waste pipe will line up before you start to build your frame. I always test the pipe by pouring a clean bucket of water into the bath and then looking for any leaks. So before you think ‘Hey how hard can it be?’ Take the time to get it right because you don’t want water flowing into house.

Step Five: Cement the bath in place

Using standard sand and cement (not mortar mix) out of a bag I then mix the it up one bag at a time. Use a large bucket and mix the sand and cement to a dry mix so it is just damp (i use a drill and mixer for this). Then pack it under all part of the bottom of the house. Make sure you pack it tightly for the best results. It is important not to have the cement mix to wet as it can shrink and then the installation will not support and bath. This means when auntie Marther comes over and needs to use your bath after a very large meal it may crack and ruin the bath.

Step Six: Install the cement backing board

Install bath ready to tile

Install the cement based backing board around the side and/or front of the bath. You should be ready to tile and the tiles should be flush with the lip or edge of the bath. Don’t forget to use silicon around the bath between the bath and the tiles. Do not use grout between the bath and tiles as it will crack.

Concrete

If you want to use concrete or bricks to build up under the bath I suggest use Hebel bricks  (aerated concrete block) because they are light and strong and easily cut with a hand saw. They simply glue together using cement based thin bed tile glue or you can use the Hebel glue which is the same thing at twice the price.

Install your bath by notching it into the wall and then using a level brick around the bath and bring it right up under the lip. Make sure you set the bricks back from the lip to allow for the tile and tile glue. This method is fairly quick but is not as quick has the timber frame method.

Bath installation tips

• Always use good quality materials
• Do not use expanding foam under the bath as it breaks down and will void the warranty on most baths.
• Be careful when nailing the cement backer board on not to chip or damage the bath.
• Always measure and then make your timber frame away from the bath so you don’t nail the bath.
• Silicon under the frame and sit the bath on to the silicon.

Bath installation Variations

Bath installed and finished

Some spa bath come with there own metal frame with adjusting feet. Just put the spa where you want it (you may nave to notch the wall) and then adjust the bath level. Connect all the plumbing to the bath and test it by running water into the bath and checking for leaks. Once this is done just install your cement based backing board or sheet onto the bath frame with stainless steel or galvanised screws making sure to allow for the tile and tile glue. You may have to pack the backing board out using a timber spacer to get it in the right position.

Bath installation drop in

This type of installation can be against a wall or in the center of the room. It is the same as the installation above with no notching of the wall. So you make a frame larger than the bath and install cement based backing board on top with a cut out for the bath. You simply drop in the bath and the bath lip should be holding your bath in place. Then cement under the bath for strength and connect the plumbing. You will have to tile right around the bath top lip. For this method is simply a large box that the bath will sit in.

Installing a bath can be straightforward however it is important to be accurate when you measure to get it right. It is also much easier to tile around a bath that has been installed correctly in the first place. If in doubt call a tradesmen to help you. A bath install correctly should last the lifetime of the bathroom.

Want to know more about bathroom renovation?

When building or constructing a timber deck its’ important to plan your deck correctly. Their are four main areas that make a great deck:

1. Deck Design
2. Deck Construction techniques
3. Decking Timber Selection
4. Deck Finishes

Finished Timber Deck

Deck Design

When designing your deck it is really important to plan your deck with the purpose in mind. For example: you may want to expand the living area or your home, or a BBQ area, or a place to have family dinners at a large table. So designing your deck with your purpose in mind always helps to get it right. The next part of designing a timber deck is to consider the deck construction.

• How will it fit the house?
• Do you need steps?
• Do you want to have the deck at the same level as the house floor or step down?

Asking these type of questions will help you define the design and construction of your timber deck. Make a plan drawing of your deck with exact measurements checking the design with the house to make sure it fits. For more on Deck design check out our deck pages.

Construction techniques

Over the years I have constructed many timber decks of all shapes and sizes with many different design elements, however all the deck have the same construction components.

• Posts or footings
• Bearers
• Joists
• Timber decking boards

No matter the design you will need these parts of make a deck.

Step one: Set out the Deck

The first step in timber deck construction is to measure and mark out your deck using builders string or marking spray paint. Make sure it is square to the house (double check) and then dig out your foundations and concrete in your galvanised stirrups ready for your posts. Make sure you use deck span tables to get the correct spacing and timber sizing.

A Timber Deck During Construction

Step two: Install Post and Bearers

The second step is to install your posts and bearers using galvanised bolts to secure the bearers to the posts and coach bolts to fix the bearer to the house. This bearer is also known as the whaler beam and connects the deck to the house.

Step Three: Install Your decking Joists

Step three is to layout and install all of your joists. The spacing should be 500mm or 20 inches apart as this is the correct span for the decking boards. Fix the timber joists to the bearers using galvanised brackets or by skew nailing them in place. Skew nailing is the easiest method and is the simple term for nailing the joist to the bearer at about a 45 degree angle.

Step Four: Install the Decking Boards

Nailing down your decking boards is the last step in the construction of a timber deck and it is important of leave a 3mm or o.118 inches gap between the boards when you install them. This allows for expansion and for water to pass through which will help keep the boards in good condition. Make sure you use galvanised or stainless steel nails so they don’t rust.

For more details and step by step deck construction check out our decking pages.

Timber Selection

Many people build a deck with just the price in mind and it is the largest consideration. However timber selection also has a large influence on the look and beauty of the deck. There are many beautiful timber colours from reds, yellows, pinks, and browns or a combination of these colours. Treated pine is the cheapest decking boards available and can be stained to look like some of the more beautiful timbers and this is a great option if you are on a tight budget. However if you can afford to pay the extra there are many beautiful hardwoods with natural rich colours that will out last and will always look better than treated pine.

Decking Finish

To finish your deck off and protect it from the elements you will need to coat it with decking oil or with acrylic decking coating. The decking oil is the cheapest and will last about 6 months to a year on a fully exposed deck before the need to re-coat. Acrylic decking coating can last up to four years but will last at least two years and will also bring out the colours in the timber better then decking oil.

For more of deck construction and decking tips check out our deck section.

How to build a pergola

Pergola design

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Freestanding Pergola

Freestanding or Attached pergolas

DIY Exposed Aggregate Driveways

Installing an exposed aggregate driveways is one of the easiest ways to get a decorative driveway. Exposed aggregate driveways can look great and will last a very long time. So how do you do it yourself and get a great result?

How to Install a Exposed Aggregate Driveway

An exposed aggregate concrete driveway

• Excavate and install your form work
• Select your concrete mix
• Pour and finish your driveway
• Expose the aggregate
• Coat your driveway

Excavate and install your form work

This is the same as any method or driveway finish whether it is stencil, stamped or plain concrete. Your form work will hold the wet concrete in the right shape until it sets. Most concrete form work is made from timber and timber pegs are used to hold it in place. You also set the level of the concrete by leveling the form work to the desired correct height.

Tip: make sure you have the form work ready before to order your concrete mix.

Select your concrete mix

This is where exposed aggregate concrete is different from normal concrete. Normal concrete uses blue metal or plain stones as the aggregate in concrete and it doesn’t really matter because it is being colored or colored and stamped so the aggregate is not going to be seen. Exposed aggregate concrete uses the aggregate as a feature so you can order your concrete with decorative stones in it. The other way to do this is to order normal concrete mix and then board cast decorative over the top evenly and trowel in. Your concrete mix can be order with plain or colored concrete with decorative stone in so when your aggregate is exposed you will see all the colorful stones set in plain or coloured concrete.

Tip: for the bit of bling – throw some colored glass pebbles across the top and trowel as these add a bit of sparkle.

Pour and finish your driveway

Pouring your concrete into the driveway form work is simple however you should, where possible, have access for the concrete truck to back up and pour directly into the form work area. This is the best way because you just spread it out and level it off. However sometimes full access is not possible so a concrete pump will be required or for small areas you can wheelbarrow it in. To hire a concrete pump truck you must book them it for the day you want them and order your concrete mix for the same time. If it is raining on the day or looks like rain you can just ring them and postpone the concrete and pump truck.

Expose The Aggregate

Exposed Aggregate

 

There are two ways expose the aggregate and both involve removing the top 1/8 of an inch, or 3mm approximately, of the top layer of cement paste and so exposing the aggregate. The first is once the concrete has been troweled smooth you lightly spray top of the concrete removing the top of the cement paste and exposing the aggregate. This technique is best suited to small areas and the danger is that too much paste will be washed away and result in unevenly exposed aggregate. The second and best way is to use a cement retarder to stop the top layer of cement paste from setting. The concrete is toweled off smooth and then using a pump up sprayer, spray on the cement retarder evenly across the surface. The next day the concrete will be set and you use a pressure sprayer to remove the top layer of cement paste because this has been retarded from going off. This ensures an even exposure of the aggregate which is important across a wide area that is highly visible.

Tip: You can buy cement retarder at concrete product suppliers that supply stamped, colored, and steciled concrete products.

Coat the driveway

You must let the concrete set for a minimum of 14 days before coating it with a clear sealer. Also you must not drive on it for 28 days so it has reached full strength. Coating your driveway with a clear sealer does two main things. One it protects the cement from dusting and the second is a clear sealer brings out the colors in the decorative stones. While water based sealers are available the best and most durable I have seen are the two part sealers as they leave a nice hard coating on the driveway.

Installing a driveway in exposed aggregate can be done by most people and with a bit of care you can get a great result and save yourself alot of money. Why not give it a go?

Decorative Paint – DIY

There are some great choices when it comes to decorative paint that will enhance any wall. Most of the main brands of paint manufacturers are producing different decorative paints so that people who want a feature wall can buy it in a range of colors. Some of these paints are metallic, pearl effect, suede, copper and glimmer to name a few. These paints have been formulated with metallic particles or pearl particles in the paint to give the effect.

How to apply Decorative paint?

How to apply decorative paint has a direct effect of how the finished look will be. I have painted many feature walls for people and in my own house. Feature walls can add that little bit of bling (something shiny and beautiful) and lift the hole feel of the room. Decorative paint also makes a great addition to a child’s bedroom. Using a brush is the best way to a paint on most of the decorative paints as the brush strokes enhance the effects within the paint.

Criss-cross Painted metallic Wall

Decorative Paint Types

• Metallic – Small metal particles in the paint to create the effect and shimmer of metallic paint. It is best applied with a brush and the most common way is to apply the paint in a criss-cross pattern. This brings out the effect of the paint.
• Pearl Effect – similar to metallic but with a finer softer finish like that of a pearl. This paint has pearl particles in it and adds a beautiful soft glow to the paint.
• Suede – Suede has a rougher texture than metallic or pearl and is meant to have the effect of suede leather. Criss-cross brush pattern is the best way to get the suede look.

Decorative Paint Techniques

Brush – Crisis-Cross

Their are many different ways to apply decorative paint however the most common way is to use a criss-cross pattern with a brush. Even within this technique you can vary the out come by the use of different brush widths. A smaller brush will give you a lot more effect because of the large amount of contracting brush strokes. However you can even use a wide soft broom in a crisis-cross pattern for a different effect. The best way is to try a few different ways and go with what you like.

Stripe brushing

Pink Decorative Painted Wall - Done With Soft Broom

You can paint on vertical stripes to create a striped pattern on a feature wall and around the room. One way you can do this is to paint the wall of room in the colour of your choice and then using low tack painters masking tape, measure and apply the tape to form even stripes. Then use a brush the same width of the intended stripes (so you only have to paint down once) and starting at the top of your masked out stripes drag your brush down evenly. Allow to dry ( approx 2 hours) and then repeat. Remove your tape and you should have the base color that you painted the room and stripes in decorative paint.

These are just two examples of how you can use decorative paint to enhance a room. There are other ways but I have just given you the most common that look great. If you would like to know more about paint and painting your home then check out our paint section on Renovation Robot.

Laying Ceramic Tiles

Laying ceramic tiles can be a tricky process to get right. Having said that tiling with ceramic tiles is not hard to do but problems can come if you don’t how to cut, measure, or layout the tiles. I have tiled many bathrooms over the years and I am sure that practice makes prefect (or near to it). Their are a few techniques that I have gained from old master tilers that seam to do it so fast and prefect it is amazing. So what are some of theses techniques?

Ceramic Tiling Categories

• Floor tiling – Small to very large tiles  – the flatter the tiling surface the easier to tile.
• Wall tiling – Bathroom walls, Kitchen splash backs, laundries.
• Outdoor tiling – Floors and walls  -Tiles, glue, and grout that is able to cope with extreme weather and temperature.

Grouting Floor Tiles

Floor Tiling

Before laying floor tiles you need to check the floor is flat. You can use a straight edge or a straight piece of timber to check for large highs and lows. If your floor is rough or has large inconsistencies in it you must repair it with self leveling cement or your tiling will mirror the surface you laided the tiles on. The next thing you need to do is to lay the glue down in a consistent level way. Some people have a flat surface but don’t get the result they want because they have not paid enough attention to spreading the glue in an even level manner. Then place your tiles down carefully gently pressing them into the glue to bed them in. The tiles should be level with the tile next to it with no glue coming up through the gaps.  One more point to make is that many tiles will need to be buttered of the back of the tile with a thin film of tile glue to fill up the grooves before placing them down. This insures that the tiles stick and bed down well, if this is not done then large tiles may sound hollow when tapped because there is not enough contact with the glue.

Use spaces to get the correct tile gaps

Wall Tiles

All wall tiles must be laid on a sound straight/ flat surface and the larger the tiles the more critical this becomes. Small mosaic tiles can be laid on a curve of a bath or a feature, however large ceramic tile need to be laid carefully on the flattest surface possible. Most wall tiles must be laid on a bed of glue that has been evenly troweled on. However large tiles sometimes need a different technique because most walls (especially in older homes) are not completely flat which will cause your tiles to stick out or in. So how do you get around it? The techniques is not to spread the glue across the wall with a trowel but put medium blobs of glue on the back of the tile about 100mm or 4 inches apart, then press the tiles on the wall. This technique allows you to position the tile and level the tile with the tiles next to it even if the wall is a bit out. In most cases your ceramic tiles can be laid on a bed of trowelled glue, however once the tiles get larger than about 300mm x 300mm or 1 foot x 1 foot you should use the large tile technique.

Outdoor Tile

Outdoor tiles are laid in the same way as internal tiles however your glue and grout needs to be able to take extreme temperatures and UV light. Also your tiles must be outdoor rated tiles able to take the elements.

Laying Ceramic Tile Tips

• Always use the best glue and grout you can.
• Never buy second grade tiles – Tiles generally last a long time so do the job right.
• Only tile on sound flat surfaces.
• Use a blob of glue technique for large to very large ceramic tiles.
• Match the glue type to the surface you want to tile on.

Bathroom Tiling

Bath Ready to Tile

Bathroom tiling can be difficult to get right and it is a good ideal to layout your tiles (without glue)on the floor along one wall to make sure you don’t have any small cuts at one end. Also bathroom floors must fall to a waste so how do you do it? The larger the tile and harder it is to get the floor to fall to a waste and most tiles over 200mm or 8 inches will have to be split to fall it into the waste. Remember that 1 to 3 degees fall is all in need on a bathroom floor and if you go over this tiling will be extremely difficult to get right.

If you would like to know more about laying ceramic tiles or setting the floors and walls correctly check out a tiling and bathroom renovation pages.

DIY Bathroom Remodeling

Bathrooms are an important part of any home and there comes a time when you must remodel because you want a change or you  need to remodel because that bathroom is passed its’ used by date. However bathrooms are one of the most expensive rooms in the house to remodel and so doing it yourself makes sense. There are some parts of a bathroom that are best left to the professionals by law and for the sake of quality and safety. DIY bathroom Remodeling

Bathroom Remodeling In Progress

Five Golden Rules of DIY Bathroom Remodeling

1. Have a clear idea of what you want – look at bathroom magazines, bathroom displays.
2. Set a budget – Most bathrooms start at $5000.00 and can go as high as $25,000 for a builder to remodel.
3. Knowledge – Ask questions, at the tile shop, bathroom supplies shop, and hardware. Also read all you can.
4. Know your limitations – Know what you can do and what you will have to get a professional to do  – for example: electrical, plumbing, tiling, etc.
5. Always buy the best quality materials your budget will allow – never buy second grade materials – they will let you down.

Tiling the Bathroom

Bathroom Materials Vs Labour

Depending on the type of materials and fittings you choose a bathroom is about 50% materials cost and 50% labour costs. However this can change it you want solid gold taps and a toilet that lights up and play a tune when you sit on it. This is why it is so important to set a budget and track your spending because it is easy for it to get out of control. The same can be said for labour costs, if you want a non standard floor that lights up or a non standard shape to your bath hath or surround, then you will simply pay more.

Knowing what you want

Before remodeling a bathroom yourself, knowing what you want your new bathroom to look like is half the battle. Also changing your mind half way through can cost you a lot of money and time. So get a clear understanding by looking through tiles shops and bathroom displays and then plan your bathroom around your choices.

Plan your bathroom

Planning your bathroom remodel or renovation out on paper with measurements is the best way to go as you can check to see what size vanity or basin will fit in the room you have. Also your can see if you can fit in the bath you want etc. When you have all of your measurements checked and you have selected the tiles and fittings the best way to be organised is to purchase all of the materials. Buy all of the tiles you need, vanity, toilet, fittings and store them in a dry area ready for use before you start.

Newly Remodeled Bathroom

Bathroom Remodeling must be done in sequence

1. Removal of the old bathroom  – pull out everything except water pipes and electrical wiring. (DIY)
2. Run new plumbing and drainage pipes if required and rough in any new electrical wiring  (if you are not a plumber or an electrician – get a professional to do these steps so they are correct and safe).
3. Re-line the walls with cement backer board or cement sheeting and nail into place taking care to bring the new plumbing and electrical wiring through as you do. (DIY)
4. Tiling  – set the floor and tile, plus tile the walls. Tiling can be done if you are confident and have read all you can  – (DIY & Professional).
5. Install the fittings  – towel holders the toilet, shower screen etc. – (DIY and Professional)

There are many more parts to remodeling a bathroom than a have written here and it is always best to find out as much as you can – not just the basic outline. So if you want to find out How to Tile, or more on bathroom remodeling / renovation have a look at our bathroom renovation pages.

House ventilation

House ventilation is an important part of the health of any home. Poor ventilation can lead to mould, building damage and bad health which is often caused by a build up of excessive moisture. Windows are the first defence against this by opening them you will be able to increase the air quality with in the house. In most cases, the air quality outside is better than the air quality inside a house unless the house is subject to a high pollution environment. The main types of house ventilation are passive and mechanical and both are use in most modern houses.

Passive Ventilation

Passive ventilation depends on outside wind pressure and temperature to move the air through the house structure.

Mains powered extraction fan

Passive ventilation areas

• under floor ventilation – this applies to timber flooring and moving moist air out from under the house.
• Living area ventilation – This is the ventilation required by people – bathrooms, kitchens  – ventilation through windows and doors.
• Attic or roof cavity ventiltion  – removes hot and moist air between the ceiling and the roofing.

All of these areas are important and must be applied to all homes to control the build up of heat and moisture. Under floor ventilation does not apply to concrete slab floor homes, only houses with a raised floor or a floor that is not in contact with the ground. Passive under floor ventilation uses the natural wind pressure to force moist air out and drier air in. The air is forced out through the air vents and also as the air in the roof cavity starts to get hot and rise it is drawn out of the roof vents and drawn in through the under floor vents. In concrete slab houses the same effect takes place, only the air is drawn in through vents in the wall and not from under the floor.

Mechanical Ventilation

Mechanical ventilation is also found in most homes  in the form of exhaust fans in the kitchen and bathroom areas to remove extra moisture. These are very common and however many of them just exhaust the air into the roof cavity and not outside. The best way for the health of the building is to always exhaust high moisture air outside. This can be achieved by using ducting and one way vents to get rid of the unwanted moisture. Also in hot areas mechanical roof ventilators also help to actively remove hot air in the roof cavity and draw in cooler air. This helps reduce the temperature on the inside of the home and can also have an lowering effect on air conditioning costs.

solar powered extraction fan

Common Types of Mechanical Ventilation

• Kitchen exhaust fan  – range hood exhaust fans.
• Bathroom exhaust fans.
• Wind powered roof fan vents.
• Electrical (mains powered) roof fans
• Solar powered roof fans.

The solar and mains powered extraction fans are mainly there to remove hot air and can be wired to a thermostat to switch on and off at set temperatures.

Special Use Extraction Fans

Wind powered extraction fan

These fans can be either mains powered or solar powered and are installed in houses without proper ventilation or houses that have excessive ground moisture. They actively remove high moisture air out of the building and replace it with dryer air. They can be also set to come on when the moisture level is too high to remove the air and stop as the moisture levels fall. This keeps the building healthy and in turn the people living within the building healthy as well. These types of fan assist with combating excess ground moisture levels, rising damp, and condensation levels.

Check out a House Ventilation pages for more information.