Rush13

Soul of Shirt MADE IN MIRTO

noreply@blogger.com (Rush13) — Tue, 26 Jun 2012 08:29:00 +0200

Loewe masters of leather

noreply@blogger.com (Rush13) — Tue, 20 Dec 2011 11:17:00 +0100

SUZY MENKES

noreply@blogger.com (Rush13) — Sat, 10 Sep 2011 15:59:00 +0200

Suzy Menkes is not a luxury brand, but her leading articles can almost be consider the Bible of Fashion&Luxury. She is a big authority in the fashion world and her articles in the prestigious journal The International Herald Tribune about fashion collections are a reference.

Despite being one the most widely read fashion editors, her passion for fashion does not stop her being objective and fair in every article. She keeps watching every show and collection with the same passion and enthusiasm as the very first day.

Menkes does writting but she doesn't stays there, she also organizes events and conferences in the luxury world, being aware of every new store, finds new talents and being in the luxury market spotlight.

She is not an usual editor, she is a historian by University of Cambridge and at early age she went to Paris to study dressmaking. After that time se become fashion editor and sice then it's been mandatory for all the people that loves and cares about fashion to read her articles; it is admirable how can she define a collection, she got to know about what a trend is, the fabrics, the designers and their personality and style above many other things. And most of all she does care about fashion history and has built a distinct style that became timeless and unique.

I invite you to read her articles and watch some of her interviews and remarkable opinions:

Here's an interview she made with Alber Elbaz from Lanvin speaking of his colletion for H&M.

And anothet video this time she being interviewed by Fiona Sanderson.

LADY GAGA "YOU AND I" BY INEZ&VINOODH

noreply@blogger.com (Rush13) — Fri, 2 Sep 2011 12:54:00 +0200

Lanvin Fall Winter 2011-2012 Ad Campaign

noreply@blogger.com (Rush13) — Mon, 29 Aug 2011 19:56:00 +0200

ROSEANNA

noreply@blogger.com (Rush13) — Sun, 15 May 2011 21:20:00 +0200

www.roseannaswim.com

When I first get to know this brand I was surprise of the tiny sample collection they had. But just in a minute I realized the softness touch these two women involve in their designs.

Anne-Fleur and Roxane are the typical french girls, the ones that knows chic and allure.
Roseanne begun as swimsuit and underwear brand, and just like good and careful business they become little by little the brand nowadays, the one that has a melange of textures, patterns and exquisite dedication from their mademoiselles.

I invite you to take a look at their website and if you are lucky enough to live in a city where they sell the collection, please go and have a walk around this lovely path.

PIRELLI CALENDAR 2011

noreply@blogger.com (Rush13) — Tue, 30 Nov 2010 22:20:00 +0100

This Year's Pirelli Calendar has been shooted by Karl Lagerfeld and based in the ancient Greek. All the characters had been personified by Karl's favorite models with Julianne Moore as a great surprise; it looks like she had become designers favorite actress. We can also watch Baptiste Giabiconi as Apolo; the creative director of Chanel is making his appearences even more weary, Karl is killing this boy's image really fast which doesn't look as a timeless career.

It has surprised me the way Karl has photographed this sitting, with the attention to detail and the elgance as the myth of greek goddess. Watching Daria Werbowy as Artemisa or Iris Strubegger as Atenea is such a refreshing view after last year's Terry Richardson Pirelli which was much more especific and sexually obvious.

As a new decade starting, Pirelli calendar has chosen a tireless photographer to capture and photograph the classic mythology when what surrounds us looks so modern and accelerated. Let's enjoy with the 15 divas and for the first time 5 Gods that Lagerfeld propose.

AU REVOIR PARIS SPRING 2011

noreply@blogger.com (Rush13) — Thu, 7 Oct 2010 18:08:00 +0200

Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton

After the lost of Lee McQueen every eye was put on Burton's first collection as creative director and every expectation was high enough to mesmerize the show. The baroque, imperial and Louis XV style was accompanied by the tenderness. The handcraff of the cuts on the suits, a fabulous care on the shapes and the sculptural dresses were on the same way as Lee used the last years. To replace McQueen is not easy at all and sure it's going to take her a lot of patience and strengh to show her real personality and style, McQueen was unique and unrepeatable so Sarah Burton better restart by her own, goog job!!

Yves Saint Laurent

Stefano Pilati YSL collection has remind me when i visit last may Yves Saint Laurent exposition in Paris, an exhibition about his life and evolution. The exhibition was perfectly organized by his multiples stages, so when i saw the collection that Stefano has created i was convinced that he had look back to the past, took the archives and put everything together with delicacy but with full knowledge of what he was doing.

Chanel

Chanel runaway was the invitation to a dark garden full of secrets very well told by Karl Lagerfeld. The classic tweeds were back, and it's been a very innovative collection which seems to never stop in the kaiser's mind. This collection it has been decorated by some feathers on the jackets shoulders, zigzag prints, flower blouses, shredded jeans, and chiffon shapes. Chanel is not about trends, is about class, history, it's about the "know-how". Karl Lagerfeld knows how to keep with Chanel style and at the same time create pieces and clothes that are modern and developing. Chanel with Karl is never going to be off fashion, not even off life. The appearance of Inès de la Fressange at the end of the show was the proof of what Lagerfeld wanted to show, the background of a house with many stories to tell, a look back to the 20's at Mademoiselle Coco Maison.

PARIS FASHION WEEK II

noreply@blogger.com (Rush13) — Tue, 5 Oct 2010 19:42:00 +0200

In the runaway of Balenciaga what first claim your attention is the models cast, we've seen Gisele Bundchen back on the catwalk for the first time after become a mother and many other great models that were retired for all purposes: Amber Valetta, Carolyn Murphy, Stella Tenant and also a pregnant Miranda Kerr.
Guesquiere has choosen so many different shapes: huge "pied de coq" coats, big sleeves, warrior style, men's shoes and flat sandals for a masculine atmosphere. He has tried different cuts with the innovative shirts with big dots on it and mixing colours on them. Nicolas Guesquiere wants the woman to be back on comfortability, but don't forget the leather strengh with the nice red biker jacket that Carolyn Murphy is wearing: keep rocking your world.

Balmain-mania is almost over, again first thing we liked watching Daria Werbowy on the runaway and noting Carmen Kass has cut off her hair is not a good sign. But anyway, apart from these evidence and the rocky style, capri trousers are on for next summer and yet for these autumn. If one thing Decarnin is not ready to give away is the sexiness of his women, the two corsets make the effect he's looking for but not the perfect match. Something you get tired of already the bleached pants and the cut tights, and something you look forward to the red and silver shinning pants. It seems Decarnin has stuck on Balmain a bit.

Isabel Marant has paint a candy and sweet summer, she shows her love for youth and wants not women but girls with personality wearing her clothes, if you want to have fun go for Marant. We love her mix of shorts and boots, the net effect on the t-shirts, the crochet and the cherry dresses. Her song is in between Nancy Sinatra's "these boots are made for walkin" and Grease "Summer Nights", let's eat some gum next summer!

At Loewe Stuart Vevers is trying season after season to give a younger look to the brand what for a hundred year old brand based on leather goods is not an easy job, but he's sure making an appealing change. There's chic style all over, and since Stuart is dreaming about butterflies on his clothes he's seen the world in a nice melange of colours and shapes, it's like being in a fruit shop in the caribbean and that's not the main point of the show, mostly the optimism runs errands the show, maybe too much for Loewe?

Monday morning dawned dark in Paris at Givenchy and his almost black and white palette; Riccardo Tisci wore his models as a gothic tribe walking through the line of darkness with flow charm and transparencies coming all over from the skirts or the trousers. A remarkable detail is the overlap jackets, the leopard prints and the zippers all over.

PARIS FASHION WEEK

noreply@blogger.com (Rush13) — Mon, 4 Oct 2010 21:02:00 +0200

We have seen that there's no Monarchy anymore in the fashion world. It's been few weeks of completely variety of patterns, shapes, textures. It looks like next spring could both be colourful or white out in New York and Milan, but when it comes to Paris everything's different, not only many designers didn't really think about spring time but they have keep their soul and style; with Balmain everything seem the same, Balenciaga still with their construction work, Isabel Marant looks joyful and youthful, Loewe surprises with a nice palette that looks like a yummy cake brighten up Paris runaway. And Céline and Stella McCartney had made their job pretty good, wanting women to dress comfortable, easy and simple. Both Phoebe and Stella had studied at the same fashion school, they are friends and it seems that they run the fashion world with real skill; they are women nowadays: workers, mothers, friends and they do every job in every perfectly way.

BEAUTIFUL LANVIN!!!

I want to be a Lanvin model, i want to wear those dresses and i want to live in a world full of glam, elegance, style and class so please i beg you Alber Elbaz, take me somewhere near Sahara to dream and never wake up.
Alber Elbaz commented about his show that he wanted "modernity and glamour to live together" and sure he did!!
The first look that came was an amazing long pleated skirt with a tan asymmetric bodysuit touch by the unmistakeable sense of airiest that Elbaz always put on his shows. Every piece flows into the scene that the designer and his team create for women who really want to feel special and become different people.
This Spring 2011 for Lanvin is a mixture of many things that could look like it goes in different ways but never so fast and clear, Alber Elbaz makes things look easy and simple which means that they aren't. We have seen dresses that suit the body as a second skin, beautiful and becoming asymetric cuts, flat sandals that many women will thank fot and some leather belts which have nothing to do with the polished and innovative dresses to finaly get to the point that he's a geniuos and he will always be. The final surprise was accompanied by five spectacular dresses with woodland print: welcome to "Nights in Lanvin Satin".

McQueen's Memorial

noreply@blogger.com (Rush13) — Wed, 22 Sep 2010 19:07:00 +0200

There is a time when life stops for a second and look at the beauty itself, a time when you stop by thinking about the meaningless of all and when you look up to the sky and see clearly what it's about to happen. A time when someone has gone, a specific and effortless proffesional who will never be replace but yet remember in every way.
Alexander McQueen's Memorial Service was one of this fashion moments when you can think that is all about superciality or just a showcase, but don't get misunderstanding, this memorial service is not only to honor a person who was shy and regardless of all a human being but it was also to honor an overwhelming artist.
The star system was well represented by many of Lee's friends, but what you can not avoid is the impact that his clothes make on the fashion world. It's not easy to pay an honest tribute to those who has left us, but in fashion is as easy as you see! Couldn't say the same for writers, at least you bring some of their letters, or for musicians some of their songs, but this was a memorable show, the last one, the most important one, the show where all his beloved show their regard, their admiration but above all their LOVE.

SOLEDAD LORENZO GALLERY

noreply@blogger.com (Rush13) — Wed, 28 Apr 2010 19:18:00 +0200

Soledad Lorenzo has made herself what she's nowadays, passionate and with a young spirit, she loves her profession, she consider herself privileged and she's a role model, a tireless woman with a unique and elegant courage conveys serenity and harmony and has an exquisite taste to select its artists with whom it maintains an excellent relationship. The story of a woman who for reasons of fate had a second chance to find the place which she'll never leave, a sensitive woman from head to toe. The admiration for this woman is imparale and although she does not think that way she will always be remembered and will be an example for future young people in this exclusive world that is art. It's been only few hours of interview but it has been a great pleasure that she has opened the doors of his small and intense universe which she has shown me with great ease and confidence.

At her Gallery with Juan Ugalde's paint behind

Can you tell me something about ARCO?

Arco has sympathy in the art world, there are options in all price and the collector as passionate, if they see something they like, they are keen to find an excuse. In 2010 despite the crisis has been a success cause if there is less is not bad. The trouble will be if there's a lot but not good enough.

How were your beginnings? It applies for the artistic inheritance received by your father?

Naturally, I was widowed in 1973, when I return to Madrid from London i was offered a job with a friend who had been associated with a person to open a gallery, my friend thought I was the right person. It is not the same as when you're looking for something, in my case it was not my choice. I came to live with my husband in London who i was helping in the social work, obviously I served much of that time. Art helped me in my mental state to have had that contact with death, I saw a lot of the positive part of my situation, was a revealing exchange. In my time at Guereta Gallery i began without knowing Fernando Guereta, was Paloma Aguirre his partner who introduced me to him. I thought of my father who was a collector and was very involved in the art world, but it was a world I'd see through my father and brothers eyes, not for myself.

In fact, i was convinced that i had no type of sensitivity for culture as constantly heard people talking, I was overwhelmed by his intelligence, makes you feel that you are not gonna be able to reach the top. As i was concerned about it I told Fernando Guereta that i knew nothing and he said it did not matter cause all those who think they know they knew nothing at all.

So I started and I knew from the first moment that I would stay there, I had found my site.

How was the experience at Guereta Gallery?

The issue is that when my husband death came up i did not know how I would achieve all that change, I wondered if i was used for daily life? I asked myself many questions and it looked harder, even my friends saw me as if i was in a very spiritual world but on the contrary i was in the reality of life, was a real experience and I realized it was not easy for people to understand what i was going through, people just felt sorry for me, they just read it as it was a real blow to me. They branded me as mystical when I'm just the opposite.

Fernando's Gallery had extraordinary works of art of the twentieth century, like Picasso, Miró, it was a traditional market. Spain has been slow to be cultured, there was no important collections, the gap was huge.

How did the idea to open your own Gallery become?

That is quite a natural evolution, my brothers asked me what i was going to do with my life and I just knew I wanted to return to Spain. Once i was back the adventure begin, i did not want any responsibility, I cared more about the entire process within my life.

I knew if I opened a gallery I was going to thrown myself into it because I am a hard worker, and it seemed a privilege to have seen the sensitivity of art. I've always heard about the awful experience that is the loss of a loved but i've had never heard of how positive it is to accept life. Only culture can come to this attitude I had at that time to went through all that change, the emotions, more being a person not qualified to write about it but what you do is live it.

I started and I knew I would not leave the culture even less Art.

How do you choose the artists?

Like everything, we are not teach to educate the eye, the look is as if the Holy Spirit says go and see, art is something natural, in the background art is so important because it is life itself and is more complex because includes all the senses, the images are the look, the look is always emotional. Precisely because we see our life is emotional.

Do you catch the artists or do they come to you?

The gallery choose, the best definition is: as the groom, you can not explain why one and not another is a feeling, it is passion, art is passion.

Do not you ever thought that an artist with whom you worked a few years ago suddenly its work does not filled you?

It just happened with two artists, they are very few in the background, is quite logical as in couples people evolve in different ways. In some cases you can combine the development and in others it breaks. But in principle that complicity is created from the passion that I first worked. I am one of the few galleries that keeps artists from the beginning that started with me and have evolved, on the contrary they look much better than when I took them very young, having lived their evolution to better is more than normal.

When you started did you had contacts or did associate with others?

When i worked with Elvira Gonzalez they had sensational but historic exhibitions of modern art and I realized that i was more interested not the work but more in the artist's thought process so the artist intelligence contrasting it with the word. Art is emotional therefore is not dogmatic, the word tends to mean truth as fists, art is never so, it is individual is not transferable rather than expressions, the emotion that you feel you can only streaming live with exclamations about how beautiful or how horrible it is.

Can everyone have an opinion about what you see?

No, you need to know, like literature, poetry or music. Music is more general, many people participate in the popularity but art is physical, they are images, people can have an opinion and say what nonsense this line is. The look is more total is a sense that captures things but at the same time you listen, you hear. The other day I read something I found interesting which is that people are getting quickly use to contemporary music through movies, is music without melody sounds and people get it, that does not happen with art.

What do you think it should be done to gradually introduce contemporary art in society?

Art will always be a minority. It is true that much has changed, young people have many more opportunities, society has a chance of education by increasing the number of susceptible individuals. But proportionately art as not been teach at college or university it lacks of majority, the artitst comes from families who don't love art and they have to fight against it. Maybe a child says I play the piano and the family supports him, those are much more static occupations rated as a writer or musician because people do talk about it and see the process, but with art it seems that we all see the same thing . It is difficult to understand, people say but I am like you, but NO sorry I do not hear as well as other friends of mine, because they have devoted their entire life to it. With the look there's much more, Guillermo Perez Villarta told me that to his mother he did not work, in a concert a musician is working and for an artist it seems to do anything, families do not feel this profession the same way.

There is no visual education, but there are more chances to be taken to a museum and of creating habits but there's no education in depth, you have to be help to understand. Probably in England has been more careful but equally there is no visual education.

How are the realtions between galleries and museums?

Very good, a museum director can not ignore the galleries, the Gallery always causes its presence, the relationships, the days are short and none have the time so galleries have to call for an exhibition and call the people you want to have at the exhibition, people you know that they are going to like but also those who do not know. It's our job to inform people that they should be and of course the collector who is the person who has to keep the art.

How does reviews affected you?

As I always say a good review is a joy and a bad review a small annoyance but it has no great influence, the bad thing is the silence. It is not the same if it occurs with a museum, the reviews are for the director of the exhibition, but for us it is critical to the artist to whom it affects and who is exposed, I am a bridge between the artist and society, but I choose, they can critize a presentation and have much respect for the work by that artist.

Galleries and museum's relationship is great, the artists begin by organized associations or through galleries for that we exist to see that the artist ends up in the museum.

How is the health of the collectors in Spain?

It has improved a lot, 20 years ago was terrible. I told a friend that the collector throws itself into paints and finds a world that enraptures, they were the Magnificent 7. Now we are at a level fairly close to other cities, there are fewer collections because it is so recent, there is no tradition of collecting. Today we live and the artists live, but it is a very difficult profession, you can enter through the front door which categorized you as the greatest, but it's a minority in proportion to all the people trying to join.

Madrid regarding the capitals of contemporary art?

He lacked, but we have the Reina Sofia museum as a structure that has nothing to envy to Pompidou and the Tate, which missed the collection, but today is a museum that is lacking in the latter stages. Modern art has great quality, but as we had the monsters we have as Picasso, Dali, Julio Gonzalez whom are very well represented, they don't get to realize there are new steps and artists to support. A change that surprised me was the presentation of Manuel Borja-Villel as director which has been phenomenal, we have a great museum but it took us lot of time just now it's beginning to have results but at the level of collection is very difficult, everything is very new, collectors are recent and there have been no donations while in the rest of Europe there is, thankfully is starting. In Spain we have a good example with the regions, Government has helped that each has a museum and museums are directed by people that has shown its worth and that understand. Spain has a situation of lack of tradition in sociological level, it was all a look back at the twentieth century but one time we looked ahead, the museums of autonomy make very interesting exhibitions.

How idoes the government helps?

They only help on the creation of museums. What is important to me is the creation of good collections that's the help fpr the Gallery, I don't want to be subsidized but i want museums supporting the artists and creating collections of contemporary art.

On one hand I think we are at very good attitude, but the problem is that there is a lack of the past that needs to be covered, such as the Reina Sofia must have a story. The grant is to acquire art works of the artist, the artist is the architect of his own building, the music needs subsidies, the theater, but we do not we just want the works in museums because it allows galleries exist and we are absolutely necessary, without an intermediate a selection could not be made. The political world can be wrong but they have the will to help.

Have you ever regretted not acquiring some artist or work?

No, in principle I like many other artists who are with other galleries but you see it as an interest in a guy, but I praise and admire from the distance. The artists that have already committed to other galleries if you like them you even give them publicity, but when you are aware if a young artist actually does not have any gallery, there are some cases where you just praise them and other cases where you call and let him be your boyfriend. It is a mutual moral commitment to long-term condition.

What is the best way for an artist to start in the gallery world?

The artist must have a strong ambition to be and saty, it depends on the effort, the ambition is positive. I liked Jorge Galindo's work at first but there was something that did not quite jell, I suggested him to try with another gallery, but he said he would wait for me a year later he called me to see his work i was actually hooked. Creativity and being stubborn is essential. Personally if you are interested in an artist you never say them what to do, you can not, who knows is he, you're a spectator.

Never give any opinion?

For example I can decide about the montage, but the artist is there, he decides, one thing is that as you know very well the space you give your opinion. It is a tandem, more and more there are artists who incorporate video which requires high collaboration, today the artist is still quite individual yet very complete and collaborate more, do video, photography, sculpture ... Sergio Prego and Iñigo Manglano-Ovalle are considered as sculptors but people place them on video.

What do you think about photography?

I like everything, what happens is just say that to be a great artist is all part of the same attitude, as thought is a complete artist, but as we lived through that excess of photography for the fact of being photo was valued , but either let me gasp or doesn't excites me, it needs to be supported by that other talent. We are living with photography what has happened to the painting, there is saturation and the same is happening with video. What happens is that it's a medium used from the beginning of a century of minority to minority that started to become an artistic medium that everyone uses, we must separate terms. As happened with cubism, a priori we accepted it because it was where it had to be.

What is art? Art is everything?

If you have talent, yes, and what is art? whatever the artist says it is an art object. The tax part of art is art, unique pieces, but today for example video is not included, in photography till 30 copies photography is considered art object.

But do you think that can be defined?

As a tax way yes, everything the artist says is an art object, how society responds to it, going completely interested or not caring is another thing. There is no other definition is decided by the artist and society as a whole. This young man that begins by saying look at my work and you dotes on its job you just econgratulate its talent, now during the trip can become a genius or stay being just a good artist. It is difficult to see that the talented can stay halfway.

Why are revalued the works of deceased artists?

Because certainly there are no moreand will be no more works of this artist, for example, Picasso sold a lot when he was young so in the background the works are placed, if they become geniuses only time will tell who will become masters of masters is the influence they have acquired which will tell and is real when new generations of these artists are breastfed by these masters, are breastfed even if they do not follow them but for sure their existence affects them. Is not about following the trend but the fact that follow and observe all the fact contribute and aspire to it is what matters.

Classical art, is more acceptable?

In the art world you see at present not looking back; Luis Gordillo told me that he did not understand young Velázquez even if he is easily well understood because people see it as it is he painted reality. With our great painters as Goya, El Greco, when they also grow is Velazquez who takes the cake, he had a special look was the only artist who has painted without mental interference, just a reality. Is not that classical art is more accepted but we had more tome to understand.

Where do you think contemporary art is going?

Where life goes, the artist draws and is fully bound by what is not predictable, the narrative, literature with life they evolve, but the tool is always the word, whereas in art, the tool can be smoke, anything. How could it not have more to tell an artist living in cities with the one that lives in the countryside, which doen't mean that in its mind decides otherwise but it will always be imbued by present, looking at hte past doesn't help. Pérez Villarta is considered an artist who draws the past and he doen't see himself that way, indeed he loves the present but when you see wonderful things from the past he remain them in his head and when he paints all what he has saved to his memory comes out and is blended. According to his words: "My memory is all I see and I've loved, people get confused by looking to the past, what I do is lay on my mind all I see."

Do you have any artist or work dream that you wish to have?

No, because the gallery shouldn't be possessive, maybe I have preferences but disappeared it sold what letf I think is just as good as other works, in every moment of an artist the level is equivalent. A gallery must not be fussy, an attitude makes a profession and my role is to create large collections and what I think is best i should sell it to the customer. I do it with enthusiasm, if I see a buyer who wants a unique box but has no feeling or sensitivity I say it is caught because you have to sell but do not just sell but to create collections.

Your dinners are quite famous in the world of art, why are performed?

No it is not so, it's dinner exhibiting artist, not my dinner, and is very open in fact i invite every person in the presentation, also the artist friends.

That means you have a great relationship with the artists, so happens with you and the other galleries?

With the artist and the rest of the galleries we have a great relationship, we respect a lot, with Helga de Alvear and Juana de Aizpuru is actually very close, we've been in this business since many years and is a healthy competition because we look for the sake of art not our own.

You have traveled all over, still doing it?

The truth is that I travel a lot less, because it also happens to you there are times you see it more necessary but today between the Internet and other facilities is not necessary. I oftenly travel to New York because I work with many American artists and i've always had a special relationship with them. My trips are to see more galleries than museums. I don't need to rest a lot, not leisure, i just like my summer vacation to be a homemaker.

Are you able to separate personal from professional life?

Yes I can, I do it in August, but i do not need much more time off, I have my own life, I am very independent.

How would you like the gallery to be remembered?

It is not going to remember, when I said so people think it is demagoguery, but the truth is that we are ephemeral while we are and when we leave who stays is the artist, to think otherwise is being unrealistic. Who is Leo Casteli today?, Let alone do so in 10 years, the creators stayed because they are the ones who change life, we are just on the way, nor pretend to be infinitely the important thing in life is being effective. Many people are sensitive, but the worlds of culture are small, the galleries are few and then we will be supplied by people who will be in another period and another time.

Our profession is that we are a bridge, in life there are many people who are rewarded so what more do you want? Even the artists can see their future, only the creators are very few and that in time will be remembered.

Is there another profession that you'd like to experience?

I'm delighted, I think it is a privilege to do what i do. I quickly realized I was lucky enough to choose something you believe cause it is real. At the beginning of the crisis, everyone was scared that if the bank takes the money, what will happen? and as we set up an exhibition I realized how lucky I am because this is real, art is life and match with so many sensitive people is a kind, art saves everything. Those who are truly in this job we can communicate perfectly, what is small can not handle the really important subject.

Herb Ritts

noreply@blogger.com (Rush13) — Thu, 25 Mar 2010 00:07:00 +0100

Herb Ritts was born in California in the '50s, a time when women began to assert itself with a more strong and seductive image, the miniskirt emerged and women began to lose their fear to show the flesh. As a child he helped his father doing carpentry work, but must be the influence of his mother, an interior designer, which sparked his interest in the aesthetic which he reflected through the photography.At college he studied art history which certainly opened his mind to new cultures and artistic expressions that lacked the sunny California, without studying photography but with great intuition all he had to do was refine its view of the world, experimenting with their tastes without engaging both the art and the study. In fact in his own words he define what he really is "many people who excel are self-taught" , that great truth.

Not bad to start having a career with a neighbour as Steve McQueen and remain friends with Richard Gere, in fact his first photograph when he still didn't considered himself a photographer was Richard in a desert gas station, Gere has just shot his first movie and this picture later appeared in many media, Herb instantly came up with the opportunity to photograph Brooke Shields, so he took courage and did not let the chance escape, for a talented person the road was sealed.Herb Ritts's photographs clearly have a sculptural aesthetic, with a palpable force and remarkable warmth. He was a true black and white artist, elegance and lightness of his images do not go unnoticed and let alone the worship of the human body.

If anyone has portrayed the tops of the 90s as Cindy Crawford or Christy Turlington, that's Herb Ritts, no doubt he was one of the photographers that towered these beauties into the kingdom of heaven from they would never get off.
His job shows the innate sensitivity of light, texture and warmth, he used large planes and spaces, areas of texture and light, like deserts or oceans or monumental places. This hobby is well reflected in his trip to Africa, since it did not matter if he was halfway around the world in a foreign country cause all these elements are universal, an image expresses a universal language.

As a true Californian his images express freedom, openness, lightness and cleanliness, his work is mutually own free and open. One of his biggest hits was "Fred with Tires" an honest image which found to be quite an achievement since, as often happens when the model "stop" posing emerges the best picture. His images are sensual rather than erotic, sensuality oozing from every pore.

DUO was his first published book, was an innovation of the time since it was the first book that showed images of same-sex partners. This meant that in some unconscious way the book should have become a benchmark for the fight against sex discrimination.Herb Ritts portraits are undoubtedly the best that you can see, you can feel the person you have in front, their inner quality is what makes them who they are. Frequently Herb commented that the most interesting people to photograph were the elderly, whom have lived their lives, that is reflected in their face.

An example is the wonderful picture Herb took when Elizabeth Taylor left the hospital after brain surgery, a very explicit picture in which the actress is seen with white hair and a scar from the operation, a distinct and unique photo, timeless. Herb Ritts has always said he likes photographing wrestlers, people who have survived. What matters is who the person is, the true inner beauty.Herb Ritts work has not been a merely photography, not pleased with his good work he aspired more. Herb has made some of the most sensual and memorable music videos of all time, who can forget the famous Chris Isaak's Wicked Game with a very young Helena Christensen but nothing innocent, a magnificent close-ups and all very detailed, let's keep dreaming to be part of that Wicked Game. Another of the most rated music video of Herb was Cherish by Madonna, where he is continuing smooching in the sand, hinting at and where we would like to be sirens to find some dolphins so muscular and strong as this magnificent artist shows. If Herb Ritts managed something pretty well is to awaken the desire in all its viewers.

On the other hand, we can not ignore how many commercials he has done for brands like Rochas, Calvin Klein, Revlon, Levi's and Victoria's Secret among others, always showing the potential of models and beauty unattainable.
Many of his photographs show us the preciousness of the male body, a strong muscular man who is in the Olympian gods, Greek sculptures were never as perfect as Herb Ritts male models. His excellence male model was Tony Ward, former boyfriend of Madonna and the most desirable man of the '80s, without a perfect physiognomy is one of those ugly men than dazzle, is mystery. Backflip '87 it's the most glaring picture, not forgetting the session with Cindy Crawford for Playboy in which she showed wicked seductress.

I could write about Herb Ritts for hours and never get tired, but I think here it is time to simply enjoy his legacy and not ever get tired of appreciating the wonderful subtlety with which a body can be photographed

R.I.P Alexander McQueen

noreply@blogger.com (Rush13) — Thu, 11 Feb 2010 17:06:00 +0100

The luxury of Haute Couture

noreply@blogger.com (Rush13) — Tue, 9 Feb 2010 00:17:00 +0100

Is fashion old-fashioned?

In a time where technologies surround and overwhelm us, in which people have no time to stand and watch or enjoy, a time when everything moves so fast that becomes obsolete just outside the market, does fashion accommodate as visionary object and study of trends?. Is it possible to find a niche in a competitive and stocked market?, or is fashion doomed to stock up of frustrated characters by not being able to meet the urgent demand for its consumers?. It is mandatory to look back to think about fashion today.

The luxury market it's becoming less, virtually everyone has access to observe or appreciate for a moment what luxury life means, we see in magazines, media and especially on the Internet (dangerous way to reach anything, any place with just one click). Luxury is devalued, big fashion houses dedicated to make exclusive dreams to counted characters don't do so lately. Today we see any celebrity wearing what has been presented on the runway a few weeks earlier, there are not luxury consumers because they realize that they aren't so unique, they don't possess the unique work of art for which they pay to "hang on their walls". The luxury has to be secret, intuitive, desired but never standardized. Some brands with economic and advertising needs collaborate with normal and commercial fashion companies, and then is when they lose a part of its essence. In a world where we have it all, shouldn't we return to the essence of small detail?. Honestly, we have to stop and appreciate things.

Fashion is a daily devotion, full of life and culture which makes it possible for people to match their personality with a style, a look that makes them feel safe, powerful, handsome. Fashion is one tool in our society through which we express ourselves, and luxury in fashion is the master key, few can have it but all want it. Therefore comes the need to revive Luxury and big brands; today all belong to business holdings that orchestrate their marks to act together, hence the need to customize, we can only hope that the industry stops and resurgence as only knows how: with dignity, identity, quality and dreams of haute couture. You can't forget masters as Christian Lacroix, Cristobal Balenciaga, Madeleine Vionnet and Christian Dior. Let us follow the example of Hermés; the luxury costs a lot because it's unique, elaborate and expensive, very expensive. A new Era has to begin, it's therefore necessary to return to the past.

Fearless photographer

noreply@blogger.com (Rush13) — Wed, 20 Jan 2010 17:52:00 +0100

John Rankin is an scottish photographer who co-founded Dazed & Confused with Jefferson Hack in 1991.

Rankin has gained his reputation as one of the best photographers of the moment thanks to his craftiness while shooting and the intimacy of which are endowed his images. Among his most iconic images, there is a prostrate naked Kylie Minogue or a rather unusual Queen Elisabeth II smiling, a photography to be reflected in his career forever.

John Rankin is one of those photographers who is not afraid of anything, from domestic violence to portray the naked body in all its glory. One example is the Dove campaign which shows women with curves and without complex, outside the stereotypes set nowadays, or his campaigns for charitable organizations. His ambition knows no bounds, Rankin is a photographer, editor and film director and each project he perform has his own seal. His works are intimate, refined, witty and paradoxical. He's one of the few that works a free way, not repeated himself neither followed the line. I specially like his images of flowers in full blaze of color, such a great intensity and beauty.

His photography is for people who are going to look, observe and understand the work.

Rudi Gernreich

noreply@blogger.com (Rush13) — Sat, 9 Jan 2010 21:44:00 +0100

Rudi Gernreich was one first class Fashion Designer of America in the 60s. Born in Vienna in 1922 and emigrated to America to escape the Nazis in 1938. The son of a manufacturer of tights and born in a Viennese intellectual family in the decade of the 20, Gernreich was predisposed to become one of the most revolutionary designers of the 20th century.

His greatest success and launching was in the swimwear line, influenced by the Bauhaus functionalism conceived a design based on wearing underwear coordinated to celebrate the unfettered movement of the body, hence arises the "monokini", Rudi uncovered the women, freed from all bondage and thus was disowned by friends and strangers. In the edition that went on sale sold 3,000 units in just one summer, and thus received a proposal concerned a magazine to design a cover story so he made the monokini that came back dressed by a prostitute, there to stardom.
Gernreich changed the way women dress, at the beach the swimsuit model unstructured by Gernreich remains the preferred model for women.

Gernreich invented the bra "unsupported" in 1964, it was a soft nylon bra with no padding or boning in the breasts naturally assumed their instead of being molded into an aesthetic ideal.
All this happened in the late '50s and early '60s, it was a time when the designer shocked the fashion world for their unusual color combinations such as pink and orange mixed with red purple and blue green, all interspersed with dots and dashes. His work always controversial but original, altered the course of fashion for generations to come.
Gernreich was the first to use vinyl for garments, and not interested in any haute couture or the red carpet, what he wanted was to dress the common people and used the street as a showcase itself.

Another term he invented was "unisex" for clothing, which earned him many detractors called him a lewd, but his admirers always saw it as what it was, a great visionary of fashion, a designer risky, whose clothing have always been endowed with agility, grace, full of sense of humor. He conceived of clothing that could be exchanged between men and women, such as the caftan that reaches the ground or flared trousers made of point. If a mistake was made not to cooperate with U.S. stores and no link to the French fashion, which in a decade on 50-bit enabled you to do.

Gernreich was more interested in how they looked up their designs in detail or decoration. And continued to show his sympathy for the liberation of women with their collection of 1971 in which women wear safari dresses military-style. Other innovative designs were the first shirtwaist dress, blouses, coordinated sets of clothing, bags, hats and socks.

He was a great experimenter of fabric, such as the constant research of potential that could have the vinyl or plastic. His clothing has been part of an overall design philosophy, ranging from furniture design, kitchen accessories, blankets, bedspreads and even in 1982, gourmet soups.
Like any artist, Rudi Gernreich had a muse, and it was Peggy Moffitt (recognized model of the 60's) that along with her husband, the photographer William Claxton eventually forming a single triad in the mid 60s. They based their main idea by incorporating the-art fashion but always with futuristic search results. Unlike Pierre Cardin and Andre Courreges, who designed from a perspective focused on the exclusivity of haute couture, Rudi Gernreich always had very clear vocation to design a practical motive for the women of the time, even though their cutting-edge online had an impact as a visual motif that as practical realization.

Certainly Rudi Gernreich was never considered one of the "great" because of his own commitment to their ideals and the fact of living life as he wanted and felt. He was always honest in his work, did not participate in projects that did not fit his character and perhaps for that very reason was more anonymous, because he decided to go his way without looking, or care what the rest of their colleagues did. He would not succumb to the charms of Haute Couture and therefore there are ladies who still today would be eternally grateful to him for freeing them from the sobriety and simplicity of the clothes they wore and even more to clear the minds of viewers by providing images and dresses for memory.

The End of a Decade

noreply@blogger.com (Rush13) — Thu, 7 Jan 2010 19:36:00 +0100

It's been a month since my last post, and because we are now in a New Decade and it seems time is running so quickly, i think sometimes we need to stop and look back to what matters and what a lifetime has show us. For that and many other reasons, i would love to share with you my deep admiration for one of the greatest fashion photographers of all time: Richard Avedon.

It takes a lifetime to admire and describe the work of the great Richard Avedon. The photographs in this New Yorker born in 1923 and son of Jewish parents are an icon of our times. You could say that one of its major contributions to fashion photography was the incorporation of motion pictures, and the momentum with which he endowed his photographs, an almost cinematic frame. He was a pioneer in this sense because the photographers before him had never so clearly. But Richard Avedon did not remain stagnant in the world of fashion, if the other obvious reason is a mainstay of photography is due to his portraits, always made a close shot black and white, they all have a really transparency that invites you to know the hidden inner world and character, as a psychological portrait.
Richard Avedon has a large collection of portraits ranging from actors, dancers, musicians, writers and politicians to anonymous people. In fact one of their portfolios and become more known book is "In the American West" is a series of portraits on the deeper America. Richard decided to portray the characters who remain most hidden in anonymity and who live discreetly putting their jobs and living with their families. This trip raises some of his most famous photographs as we see with Ronald Fischer, this is a very powerful and spontaneous photography as Avedon decided to put an ad in the newspaper looking for a beekeeper being the first to be introduced.It is a collection of images worthy of observation and analysis.

The journey through the American West was made in the very height of his career, the late 70s and early 80s. It began in the fashion world doing work for the magazine Harper's Bazaar and later became Chief of the same picture, succeeding the magazine collects some of his best work. While not entirely devoted to the Magazine, in 1965 he left to begin in Vogue magazine. Perhaps his foray into the world of fashion meant a revelation because of how their images projected, it made the image of the models were more lively and light. Not only had a passion for pretty pictures but looked surprised, like when he begins to portray characters that did not impact and gives them dignity, a reflection of this are the photographs to China Machado, namely a three-quarter shoot of China with her body almost sideways and cigarette in hand as she lift her index finger slightly with a fantastic costume by Ben Zuckerman. Following this picture, China became a full time model but quickly turn away the work to become fashion editor of Harper's Bazaar.

Avedon editorials are like stories, with an introduction, development and conclusion enter the narrative in them, everything is orchestrated.
Another innovation in photography are his margins in the images as a black edge which provide them with great naturalness and improvisation but nevertheless it was much studied. Before him, no other photographer had done it and shot images that used to cut large format not so by him. Another example is his photographs of Andy Warhol's Factory with all its characters posing standing, the left half is naked while leaving the right half wearing dark clothing, another image for posterity.

Avedon became the first photographer working for The New Yorker magazine, and in which until 1992 had only done illustrations.

Some of the models and actresses that posed for Avedon like Verushka, Penelope Tree, Natassja Kinski or Lauren Hutton owe much appreciation and recognition to this master. But the truth is that real Avedon's muse was Audrey Hepburn, whose first contact was with the movie Funny Face, where a fashion photographer is portrayed in reference to Avedon and in which he gave some of his photographs as is the case of an Audrey Hepburn depicted only in profile. Avedon went on to say about Audrey "I am, and forever will be, devastated by the gift of Audrey Hepburn before my camera. I cannot lift her to greater heights. She is already there. I can only record. I cannot interpret her. There is no going further than who she is. She has achieved in herself her ultimate portrait."

Richard Avedon died on October 1, 2004 because of a brain haemorrhage while on an assignment for The New Yorker leaving a legacy of 50-year career and many of the photographs most closely watched, admired and reproduced. The great fashion photographer died, but his images never die, persist over time and live in our memories, books, magazines, poses, models and of course in our retinas; was, is and will one of those photographers that move, that reflects the emotions beyond mere posturing, there is a big universe known through its images.

Paris Mon Amour

noreply@blogger.com (Rush13) — Mon, 7 Dec 2009 20:38:00 +0100

Don't know why, but every time i come back from Paris it takes me a long to get back to work, to put my feets on earth. It's not only the sensational breathe and character of the city of lights, it's also the charm, the grandeur and the chic never too chic.

This time i went to visit my dearest parisiens friends and get to join another taiwanese friend of mine who loves Paris as much as i do and always get to discover new places.

Because i feel so "hereuse" i really want to share the beautiful places i've been in this trip and how you can always managed to find something really unique in Paris.

In this time i was searching for lovely and charming bookstores in which you can get lost for a while, and guess what? i got it!! All these stores where all around Le Marais, a neighborhood to get lost among all its treasures.

"Comptoir de l'image"

It's a dreamers bookstore, very small but with a very delicate touch and passion for fashion books. You can find not only magazines, from the 20's, 30's, but also the best photographers books, lot's of biographies and things that you just forget you would find in any place. The owner is very kind, he covers the book so delicately. So i just tell you to go and get lost!!

"Les Archives de la presse"

Another universe of press paper, magazines, books, newspapers. I mean you enter and it transport you to another time, the number of files there are not normal. Is considerably larger than "Comptoir de l'image" and is much more variety, from photograps to newspapers and magazines much earlier this century. It smells of dust everywhere and you want to stay forever. A marvel!!

"Les Mots a la Bouche"

For those who like different kind of Magazines, books and also Dvd's this is your bookstore. Downstairs they have such a variety of homosexual photography books and mags, it's like being in a warehouse, i really found such a nice books.

"Le loir dans la theiere"

A lunch stop in this wonderful restaurant that's always packed, serving typical dishes from french cuisine, it's like being in a small get-together. The furniture is all old and the service excellent. But the best is the dessert, a cake craft to lose consciousness, all ready for the next visit.

"Merci"

To finish is Merci, a Concept Store located in somewhat away from the rich variety of cultural in Paris, is a very similar concept as in Colette, but distinctly more earthy. Created by the owners of Bonpoint offers lots of opportunities, for furniture to clothes, accesories. But the great idea of the shop is that they donate part of their profits to help disadvantage children. As a last sweet, it has a charming cafe, full of old books that you can take as you spend hours in between an unforgettable atmosphere.

"Pe" of Progress

noreply@blogger.com (Rush13) — Mon, 7 Dec 2009 14:31:00 +0100

When you think that someone can not longer surprise you is when you got it so unexpected, it shows a little unknown facet of itself.

It turns out that in Spain there are too jealous and bitter people who are dedicated to make the slightest defect to everything they see, there is no national pride, people are not glad of the successes of our ambassadors.

Penélope has been always criticized, if not a good actress, if not fluent in English, being Tom's girlfriend to publicized herself and many other stupid rumours. We really look silly sometimes, in any country they are most proud of "Pe" than in this, they pay tribute, give her awards, has been nominated twice for an Academy Award and has won one, and it appears that her rise to world heaven is unstoppable, it seems she's taken her third nomination.

I do not know what you will think, but what the hell, not every day you see such good cover in a magazine, and if the character is above our "Pe", what else can you ask for?

Lady Gaga Good Romance

noreply@blogger.com (Rush13) — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 01:15:00 +0100

Are we over Lady Gaga or are we not??

Since the first time we've heard from this Diva she has made all her way around! Not even create her own personal look that she's even the real Princess of Pop.

Forget all those bullets about other Pop Stars that don't deserve any mention, the important here is to mention how fast and succesfully this anonimous girl from New York has climbed the Kingdom that every singer want to reach: The Fame, She's literally "Dress for Success".

If you're not yet convince of what she's gonna become just look at her last Video "Bad Romance", here it comes the Next Madonna, maybe is a snap i'm making but i haven't been so sure about something since a long time!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACm9yECwSso&feature=player_embedded

R.I.P Irving Penn

noreply@blogger.com (Rush13) — Thu, 8 Oct 2009 01:34:00 +0200

In Love with Stella McCarney

noreply@blogger.com (Rush13) — Wed, 7 Oct 2009 21:49:00 +0200

I do have to say that Stella is one of my favorites designers, i like the way she show the collections, everything with a classy and modest way, without any flaunts. She makes fashion easy and for the common people, it's a designer for the real women, the one's that are so feminine and elegant but at the same time women's that really want to feel comfortable in their clothes.

For Spring/Summer 2010 Stella has design a collection for a woman who wants to feel free, who's independent and she totally get it with all the flounces shapes, the filmsiness of the colourful dresses.

It's obvious that she's not gonna leave her nature as designer as she show with the shirt-dresses that we've been used to, but this time she just step forward in all the colour palette giving a really happy feeling of her world. For last, here i give you some details of the accesories, love the sandals, look so comfortable but stylish, and love the wood sticks clutch, want one!!

Hope you enjoy it!

Tengo que decir que Stella es una de mis diseñadoras preferidas, me gusta la manera en que muestra las colecciones, todo de manera elegante y modesta, sin ningún alarde. Ella hace que la moda parezca fácil y para la gente común, es una diseñadora para la mujer real, extremadamente femenina y elegante pero al mismo tiempo mujeres que realmente quieren sentirse cómodas vistiendo su ropa.

Para la colección de Primavera / Verano 2010 Stella se ha dirigido a una mujer que quiere sentirse libre, que es totalmente independiente y llega a lograrlo a través de sus vestidos vaporosos, y gracias a la delicadeza de todo estampado florar que se precie.
Es obvio que no va a dejar apartada su naturaleza y esencia como diseñadora como muestra presentando vestidos camiseros a lo que ya nos tiene acostumbrados, pero esta vez ha avanzado bastante en su paleta de colores que nos produce una sensación de felicidad. Por último, aquí os dejo algunos detalles de los accesorios, adoro las sandalias, parecen muy cómodas pero elegante a la vez, y no es increíble el bolso con tiras de madera, quiero uno!!

LOVE Magazine Issue II

noreply@blogger.com (Rush13) — Wed, 2 Sep 2009 21:30:00 +0200

The truth is that the magazine created by Katie Grant created anticipation even before being published, and when these things happen can only be two reactions: the expectations are accomplished or you get disappointed.

Turns out I read many opinions about the first issue with Beth Ditto on the cover, but I loved it, and I liked it because it seemed courageous and risky, out of the famous stereotypes of fashion and especially outside of the politically correct, so I think you deserve an Oleh! I say, as we are always criticizing that if fashion is lack of ideas, creativity is at its limits and lots of etc., but it turns out not think so, which I think is that people are scared of the imminent demand within the industry and the interest that it creates and gentlemen, is what is necessary because the only way that the effort is rewarded and can be chosen between truly exclusive and luxurious.
Katie Grant is undoubtedly one of those artists who is visionary, looking beyond what is in front and try to meet the needs and curiosities of certain sectors that fashion is parked, and so this second issue is that Love has made same, directed to young audiences to the next generation, because Love does not take over, but on the contrary, Love is progress, experimentation, an entire issue devoted to these "small" but very valid artists, and the cover is English indie that essence, sophisticated and full of meaning as it represents the now very well known musician Alex, get ready youngsters come stomping!

Lo cierto es que la revista de Katie Grant ya creó expectación incluso antes de ser editada, y cuando ocurren estas cosas sólo pueden darse dos reacciones: se cumplen las expectativas o te llevas un chasco del 15.

Resulta que leí muchas opiniones respecto al primer número con Beth Ditto en portada, pero a mí me encantó, y me gustó porque me pareció valiente y arriesgada, fuera de los famosos estereotipos de la moda y fuera sobretodo de lo políticamente correcto, por ello creo que se merece un olé!!Y lo digo, ya que siempre estamos criticando que si la moda está falta de ideas, que la creatividad está en sus límites y un montón de etcéteras, pero resulta que no lo creo así, lo que creo es que la gente se asusta ante la inminente demanda dentro de la industria y al interés que ésta crea, y señores, eso es lo necesario porque es la única manera en que se ve recompensado el esfuerzo y puede escogerse entre lo realmente exclusivo y lujoso.

Katie Grant sin duda es una de esas artistas que es visionaria, mira más allá de lo que tiene en frente e intenta satisfacer las necesidades y curiosidades de ciertos sectores que la moda tiene aparcados, y lo que este segundo número de LOVE ha logrado es eso mismo, dirigirse al público joven, to the next generation, porque LOVE doesn't take over, sino todo lo contrario, LOVE es avance, experimentación, todo un número dedicado a estos "pequeños" pero que muy válidos artistas, y la portada tiene esa esencia inglesa indie, sofisticada y llena de significado que bien representa este ahora más que conocido músico ALex, get ready los jovencitos vienen pisando fuerte!!