RV Trader Blog

Valentine's Date Night Ideas For RVers

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Mon, 01 Feb 2021 14:14:00 +0000

An RV has the ability to take you just about anywhere, so use it to your advantage this Valentine’s Day! We’re breaking down a few romantic date night options that any RVer would love.

Go for a Weekend Getaway - Traveling is the way to any RVers heart, so why not plan a romantic weekend getaway for your significant other? Conduct some research and find a nearby destination that you’ve never visited to keep things exciting. It could be a drive to the mountains, a beach getaway, or simply a campground you’ve never visited before - the options are endless! Reserve the campsite ahead of time and plan a few fun activities that you both can do together.

Cook for Each Other - If your RV has a kitchen, try cooking a romantic meal for your partner. There are tons of on-the-go recipes that are equally delicious as they are simple. You could even set up a virtual cooking class where you can both follow along with the instructor to craft a perfect meal together. If your RV isn’t equipped with a full kitchen, try some delicious over-the-fire recipes to try. Or keep it simple and grab some takeout from a local restaurant!

Cozy Up by the Campfire - Once you’ve cooked your delicious dinner, gather some firewood, light a match, pour your favorite drink, and cozy up by the campfire. There’s nothing better than kicking your feet up after a long day of travel or outdoor activities. Don’t forget to bring supplies for s’mores or campfire turnovers to top off the night with a delicious treat!

Pack a Picnic - See if you can find a nearby trail or scenic location and add a hike or nature stroll to your itinerary. Before you head out, pack a small picnic to take with you to enjoy when it's time for a scenic break. You can bring whatever your partner likes whether it be a charcuterie board full of cheese and crackers or a lovingly crafted PB&J. It’s the thought that counts!

No matter where you go, what really matters is who you are going there with! We hope you have fun trying these Valentine’s Day date night options.

Need an RV to take you there?

Find your perfect unit on RVTrader.com.

Where to Boondock?

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Wed, 13 Jan 2021 15:10:00 +0000

For many RVers, boondocking is their favorite style of camping. Boondocking refers to a style of free camping without access to utility hookups. Now that we know why to boondock and how to boondock, we’re covering where to boondock.

An RVer can boondock in a wide variety of locations. These include public lands, such as national forests and other federally-protected lands, casino parking lots, the parking lots of many businesses, locations offered through several types of membership clubs, rest stops, and more. Here, we will list and describe in detail all the places available for free boondocking across the United States. You may be surprised at just how many places are available!

1. Public Lands

Did you know that the United States has over 610 million acres of publicly-owned land across the country? This includes lands managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), the United States Forest Service (USFS), the United States Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS), and the National Park Service (NPS). Besides the lands managed by the NPS, most of the other public lands across America are open to campers for boondocking purposes. Rangers in federal land offices sometimes refer to this as dispersed camping. Among those who love to boondock, dispersed camping (camping on public lands) tends to be the most popular.

Credit: Public Lands Foundation

There are many benefits to camping on public lands. These include gorgeous views, minimal interactions with others, peace and solitude, access to nature in its purest form, and plenty of wide open spaces. However, free access to these gorgeous places comes with a few rules.

First of all, campers must ensure that they cause minimal impact to their campsite by leaving no trace and packing out all trash and waste.

In addition, all campers must be sure to camp for a maximum of fourteen days, although this number can vary depending on the location.

Finally, campers must respect any burn bans that may be in place, as well as any other conditional rules their camping area may have. When in doubt, call the nearest ranger station to double check on the rules.

Camping on public lands is incredible for all those able to experience it, and it is able to be regulated and enjoyed by everyone when campers adhere to the rules in place.

2. Business Parking Lots

There are many businesses that also allow RVers to park overnight for a night or two, free of charge. As a general corporate rule, some of these locations include Walmarts, Home Depots, Cracker Barrels, Cabela’s, Bass Pro Shops, K-Marts, Targets, Costcos, and many other places. However, while camping is generally permitted at these locations, city ordinances in certain places may prohibit camping. As with each other free camping location, there is a process you should follow to ensure that camping is actually permitted at each individual location.

Start by locating the business where you are thinking of staying. Find the contact information and call, asking to speak with a manager.

Once you get a hold of someone, confirm whether or not camping is allowed, and ask if there are any specific rules to follow. This could include allowance of generator usage, where to park, if you are allowed to open your slide-outs, and more.

If you are unable to get a hold of a manager, it is not recommended that you try to stay overnight, as this could lead to fines or ticketing. However, keep in mind that most Walmarts are allowed, unless signage indicates otherwise.

Credit: RV Life

3. Membership Clubs

There are a few membership clubs that RVers can join for access to even more overnight camping. Each of these has a yearly fee, but after paying this one-time price, members can access to many unique locations for an entire year.

Boondockers Welcome is a great program in which hosts allow RVers to stay on their personal properties for free. Often, this may be in someone’s driveway or even in their backyard. A membership will allow members to gain access to the full repertoire of over 2,000 locations, each complete with information such as number of days permitted, what size RVs are allowed, whether or not the location is pet-friendly, and more. Often, this can be a great option for those camping in cities where overnighting in business lots is not permitted. In addition, it is also great for building a network of friends with similar camping interests.

Harvest Hosts is another unique program that allows those in self-contained RVs to stay overnight for free at over 1,100 business locations across North America. These include locations such as farms, vineyards, breweries, museums, and so much more. The membership costs a low yearly fee, and members are expected to patron their Hosts’ business, but the total amount spent is still significantly less than what one would spend at a campground. In addition, it gives campers tons of personal and interesting experiences that cannot be found in typical campgrounds or parking lots. Once you have joined, the website’s interactive map allows members to view hosts and details about their location before requesting to camp.

Credit: RV Travel

4. Rest stops

As a last resort, most rest stops along interstates and highways allow free overnight camping. While this may not be ideal, due to safety, noise, and comfort, this can be a very convenient option when traveling quickly from one place to another. Generally, there are few rules at rest stops. Just be sure to look for signage indicating that camping is permitted before setting up for the night. And as always, keep noise to a minimum, and properly dispose of all garbage.

Credit: Do it Yourself RV

5. Casinos

Finally, many casinos across the United States allow visitors to camp overnight in their self-contained RVs, free of charge. Most of these locations are Native American-owned and can be found in the western half of the United States. This camping option is excellent for those who wish to be near a city and save some money on camping fees. Like dispersed camping, casino camping tends to have a few rules.

First, campers will need to check in with security and ask where in the parking lot they are allowed to camp. Typically, there is a set area where the casino owners would like RVs to park if they are staying overnight.

Next, you will want to check to see if there are certain hours when generator use is permitted. If there are no set hours, you will want to stick to a 9pm-9am schedule for quiet hours, during which time your generator should be off, out of politeness to fellow campers and your host.

Then you will need to check and see how many days you are allowed to stay. This can be anywhere from a single night all the way up to two or three weeks, depending on the casino.

Finally, any campers enjoying their free overnight accommodations should be sure to patronize the casino with a small purchase of some entertainment or a meal. After all, the camping is permitted because it is profitable for the casino, so if RVers do not spend any money, the casino may begin to rethink whether or not it wants to allow free overnight camping.

If there is no public land and no casino camping available nearby, then you may look to any of the next three options for free campsites.

Credit: Aluminum Life

Free campsites are available in almost every area an RVer could wish to visit. Even if you only wish to camp for free occasionally, the money saved can allow you to enjoy even more fun while on vacation. Consider any of these location possibilities for an excellent variety of campsites to choose from. Stay tuned for our next post, where we will discuss what tools are most useful for locating and selecting specific boondocking sites.

Where do you like to boondock? Did we miss any of your favorite places? Feel free to share in the comments below!

FMCA Tech Tip: RV Fire Safety

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Wed, 13 Jan 2021 14:52:00 +0000

Making a plan and having the proper equipment can help to avert disaster.

An RV fire can quickly lead to devastating damage, injury, or, in the worst-case scenario, loss of life. Therefore, it’s important that RVers implement a fire-safety plan that includes knowing how to exit the RV, having a sufficient number of fire extinguishers of an adequate type and size, installing devices that warn of dangerous levels of smoke and propane (as well as carbon monoxide), and possibly installing an automatic extinguisher for a refrigerator or engine compartment.

Escape Options
When a fire breaks out, your first decision is whether to fight it or flee. Because RV fires can quickly become unmanageable, fast action is crucial. Some RV owners place important items in a pouch that they keep near the door, so it’s easy to grab on the way out. The door, of course, may not be accessible. Emergency exit windows are mandated by law, but crawling through one may be difficult. Some windows pop out, but many can slam shut on you, so you may want to keep handy a pole of some sort to hold the window open. You also might have to deal with a significant drop to the ground, unless a picnic table or bench is below the window. Rope ladders can be purchased, but you must be able to find and deploy the ladder quickly to avoid being overcome by smoke inhalation. Rather than an emergency exit window, some Type A motorhomes have an emergency exit door. Whatever your options, it’s important to have an escape plan and practice it with your travelers.

Fire Classifications
A fire needs three elements to ignite: fuel (such as wood, carpet, gasoline, diesel fuel, and propane), oxygen, and heat. Fire extinguishers put out fires by removing one or more of these elements. Although RVs come equipped with fire extinguishers, they often meet only the minimum standards provided by the National Fire Protection Association. Many models are undersized and fall short of what’s needed to put out anything but a very small fire. Before we examine the types of fire extinguishers, it’s important to understand how the fires most likely to occur in RVs are classified.

Class A fires involve solid combustible fuels (other than metals), such as wood, paper, cloth, and plastics. These are the easiest fires to put out. Water works well. Ideally, an element (such as soap) is added to the water to break the surface tension and separate the fuel from its oxygen.

Class B fires involve flammable liquids, such as gasoline, oil, grease, diesel fuel, and alcohol. Water won’t extinguish such fires, because the liquid fuel floats on the water’s surface and spreads to other areas.

Class C electrical fires are caused by energized circuits. If a circuit is live, consider the fire a Class C blaze. The wire itself doesn’t burn, but the insulation and anything surrounding it does. Using water on Class C fires can create an electrical shock hazard. Once the circuit is de-energized, the blaze can be treated as a Class A fire.

Fire Extinguisher Ratings
Fire extinguishers tested by UL, a global safety certification company, are labeled with a rating that indicates the size and types of fires the extinguishers can put out. Each letter stands for a fire classification — that is, Class A, B, or C. The number preceding the letter A is a water equivalency rating, with each A equal to 1.25 gallons of water. For example, a 2A extinguisher is rated as effective as using 2.5 gallons of water on Class A fires; a 3A extinguisher is as effective as using 3.75 gallons of water, etc. The number rating for Class B and C extinguishers represents the square footage that the extinguisher is designed to handle. So, a 10B:C extinguisher can handle Class B or C fires up to 10 square feet. It’s common to combine ratings on a single extinguisher, such as 2A:10B:C.

Fire Extinguisher Types
Using the wrong type of fire extinguisher on certain fires can be life threatening. Following is a brief description of the types of extinguishers and the fire-fighting agents they employ:

Air pressurized water (APW): Extinguishes Class A fires. APWs are large tanks filled about two-thirds with water and then pressurized with compressed air. Pulling the trigger shoots water from the hose and nozzle.

Carbon Dioxide (CO?): Extinguishes Class B and C fires. The extinguishers are filled with highly pressurized carbon dioxide, which exits through a hard plastic horn and displaces oxygen from a fire, suffocating it. Because the CO is cold as it exits the extinguishers, it also cools the fire. CO generally is not effective on Class A fires because it may scatter burning particles and may not displace enough oxygen to smother the blaze and prevent it from reigniting.

Dry Chemical: Extinguishes Class A, B, and C fires. These are the most popular extinguishers among consumers. The dry chemical is a fine powder that is pressurized with nitrogen. The dry chemical interrupts the chemical reaction that occurs among elements of a fire (fuel, oxygen, and heat). Many RVs come equipped with a 3.9-pound dry-chemical fire extinguisher rated at 1A:10B:C. As a fire-fighting tool, it’s undersized, and therefore its usefulness is extremely limited. If you choose a dry-chemical extinguisher, I recommend a larger one, such as a 9-pound 3A:40B:C. One downside of dry-chemical extinguishers is that they leave a mess. The powder extinguishes electrical fires, but it is corrosive to electrical circuits, so once it’s used, electrical components may need to be replaced. In addition, inhaling or coming into contact with certain types of dry-chemical powders can cause irritation to the nose, throat, and lungs, as well as dizziness and headaches. Over time, the dry chemical tends to settle in the cylinder and become packed down. Therefore, every six months, turn the extinguisher upside down and whack the base with a rubber mallet so that the powder remains loose enough to be expelled. Most of these extinguishers come with a pressure gauge that should be checked regularly. If the gauge indicates a recharge is needed, it may be possible to refill the extinguisher, but usually inexpensive throwaway models simply should be replaced.

Clean-Agent Gas: Extinguishes Class A, B, and C fires. These extinguishers use an inert gas to interrupt the chemical reaction in a fire and/or remove heat. Halon has been banned in many areas, because it destroys ozone, but environmentally acceptable clean-agent gas alternatives are available. They leave no mess and don’t conduct electricity. Two types of clean agents exist, flooding and streaming. Flooding types are more gaseous, and often are used in enclosed, unoccupied areas where the gas can’t escape, such as computer rooms and engine compartments of boats. When such extinguishers are used in an open or fan-ventilated area, the gas can disperse, allowing the fire to flare up again. Streaming clean agents, such as Halotron 1, are discharged from a portable extinguisher as a liquid and then turn into a gas. This allows the user to stand back from a fire. Although Halotron 1 is approved for use in occupied spaces, inhaling it should be avoided. It should be used outdoors or in an enclosed area that can be adequately ventilated after use. A Halotron 1 fire extinguisher is capable of putting out a Class A fire, but it is not as effective in doing so as a dry-chemical extinguisher. EX:

Aqueous Film-Forming Foam (AFFF): Extinguishes Class A and B fires. AFFF is a soap-like foam agent that is mixed with water. The foam blankets a fire, suffocates it, cools it, and prevents reignition. Technically, AFFF can conduct electricity, but in a fire involving high-voltage electrical wiring, the conductors generally short out and trip the circuit breaker, which de-energizes the circuit and removes the fire from the Class C category.

High-Expansion Air-Compressed Foam: Extinguishes Class A and B fires. These extinguishers employ a mix of denatured water and a foam. They are more effective than AFFF extinguishers. The foam provides a viscous, nonflammable layer to block air from the fuel. The foam also renders hydrocarbons such as gasoline or oil inert so they cannot reignite. The foam clings to vertical surfaces and produces no toxic gases. Fire Fight Products sells handheld 16-ounce extinguishers, the SS20 ($30 plus shipping), which can be used on small fires, such as on a kitchen stovetop. The best practice is to keep multiple units handy — one in the bedroom, one up front by the entry door, one in an outside storage compartment, and one in the towed or towing vehicle. Fire Fight’s 6-liter SS450 handheld extinguisher ($245 plus shipping) provides significantly more fire-fighting capacity. It comes with a spare can of foam, enough to refill the extinguisher twice. The refill procedure: add distilled water and 8 ounces of foam to the extinguisher, and then charge it with compressed gas. Jim Bounds, CEO of Fire Fight Products, said the company’s fire extinguishers are supplemental fire safety products. Individual components of the fire extinguishers have been tested by UL, but the overall units have not, and therefore they do not carry a UL rating.

Automatic Extinguishers
Many RVs have absorption-style refrigerators. They contain an ammonia-based mixture that can release explosive hydrogen gas should the cooling unit rupture and leak. The gas can be ignited quickly by a heat source.

To control that kind of fire, compact automatic extinguishers that use a clean-agent gas can be installed in an enclosed compartment behind the refrigerator. Fire Fight’s SS30 was designed specifically for this type of application, and it works equally well in generator compartments. Its HFC227 gas can be dispensed through the standard sprinkler-style head or through a remote head attached to the cylinder via a 6-foot-long, stainless-steel braided hose. The cost of the SS30 series is about $250. An automatic extinguisher also can be a good choice for the engine compartment of a motorhome. A leak in a gas-powered coach can result in fuel coming in contact with hot engine parts or electrical components. And in a diesel-powered motorhome, the engine’s turbochargers can reach extreme temperatures, especially when working hard or climbing grades. If a hydraulic fan line or fuel line becomes loose or fails, flammable fluid can spray on the engine bay and ignite.

One option for engine compartments is an automatic extinguisher using high-expansion air-compressed foam, which coats the fire and reduces the temperature. Fire Fight Products offers such systems in three cylinder sizes: SS100 (2 liters of foam); SS200 (3 liters); and SS300 (4 liters). The head can be mounted directly on the top of the cylinder or can be mounted remotely on stainless-steel braided hoses. The 4-liter system is available with two remote heads to cover larger areas. When the engine is running, a fire may reflash. So, a larger cylinder with a longer run time can allow you more time to get off the road and shut down the engine. Proteng is another company with an automatic fire suppression system. It is available in two versions — standard and heavy-duty. Each is intended to be used in enclosed areas, such as diesel or gas engine compartments, battery compartments, and other electrical areas. The system consists of a polyamide (synthetic polymer) tube that is filled with the clean agent FM-200, which is nontoxic and noncorrosive. When the standard system is exposed to direct flame or temperatures that exceed 158 degrees Fahrenheit, the tube ruptures, releasing the FM-200. The heavy-duty system uses a thicker polyamide tube, which ruptures when exposed to flame or temperatures exceeding 194 degrees Fahrenheit. The length of tube required depends on the size of the area needing protection.

Fogmaker International AB also offers an automatic fire suppression system for engine compartments. According to the company website, the system dispenses a high-pressure mix of water and aqueous film-forming foam as a dense fog that can decrease temperatures by 700 degrees Celsius (1,292 degrees Fahrenheit) within 10 seconds. The dense water vapor displaces oxygen, and the AFFF prevents reignition of hydrocarbon vapors. A sensor connects to a warning display on the cockpit instrument panel. The cost of automatic systems ranges from about $160 to $900. When a fire in the engine compartment of a diesel pusher deploys an automatic extinguisher, the fire may go unnoticed by the driver for a considerable time. In fact, once the extinguisher is empty, the fire may reignite. Therefore, I recommend that an automatic fire suppression system have a remote alarm that senses pressure loss in the extinguisher. With an early warning of a fire, the driver can safely pull off the road, analyze the fire, and attack it with a handheld extinguisher, if necessary. Most any type of alarm can be used. You can buy a professional alarm or make something as simple as a 12-volt buzzer and flashing light on the dash. Fire Fight offers an optional pressure switch, but you must specify this when ordering a system, because it’s not shown on the company’s website.

Smoke Alarms
An effective warning system can be the difference between saving an RV or making a speedy exit while it burns to the ground. The longer an RV is, the more time it takes for smoke to travel from one end to the other, so it’s important to install multiple smoke alarms. They should be mounted on the ceiling or on a sidewall close to the ceiling. Place one in the rear and another in the front of the RV. To avoid false alerts, don’t install one in the cooking area.

Smoke alarms may utilize ionization or photoelectric sensing technologies, or both. Ionization alarms are more responsive to flaming fires. Photoelectric alarms are more sensitive to smoldering fires, such as when electrical wiring is shorted and its insulation begins to burn slowly with smoke but no flame. In that case, you can shut down the electrical circuit to prevent a full-blown fire. Manufacturers such as Kidde and First Alert make dual-sensor smoke alarms that incorporate both types of sensors in one unit.

Other Detectors
If a leak develops in a propane line or if a propane appliance fails, the highly flammable gas can build up inside an RV. Propane is heavier than air, so it settles to the floor where a pilot light or spark can ignite it and start a major fire. That’s why propane alarms generally are mounted very low on an interior wall, next to the floor. Avoid using aerosols such as hair spray and various cleaning agents near a propane alarm, because they can ruin it. Test the alarm regularly. A carbon monoxide (CO) alarm won’t alert you to fire, but the colorless, odorless gas is just as deadly, so we’re including it here. CO, a byproduct of combustion, can come from a furnace with a cracked heat exchanger, or from a vehicle exhaust, or even the exhaust from a nearby camper’s generator. The lighter-than-air gas rises, so a CO alarm should be installed up high. Some RVs come equipped with a combination propane/CO alarm, which is generally located beneath the refrigerator. This is the perfect location for detecting propane but not for CO. If you have such a setup, I suggest adding a ceiling-mounted CO alarm. Some smoke alarms feature a digital LCD display that shows how much CO has accumulated. As little as 250 parts per million over an eight-hour period can be fatal. A good alarm will add up the accumulative amounts to protect you from a slow CO buildup, but less expensive models may sound an alert only if a large amount of CO is present at one time. Keep in mind that alarms for CO and smoke should not be mounted beneath a cabinet. They should be at the highest point in the RV.

Summary
When dealing with a fire, it’s important to stay calm, and you’ll have a better chance of that if you’ve rehearsed what to do in any given situation. Discuss and practice how to deal with a particular fire and whether to fight it or just safely exit the RV. Know your escape route and method so you don’t have to figure it out in an emergency. Be sure to outfit your RV with adequate fire extinguishers in multiple locations to cover your needs. Install smoke, propane, and carbon monoxide detectors in places where they will be most effective. Knowledge is power. Attend a fire and life safety seminar at an FMCA convention. You’ll gain immeasurable knowledge to help stay safe in your RV travels.

Equipment Suppliers

Fire Fight Products (321) 299-5707
First Alert (800) 323-9005
Fogmaker North America (610) 265-3610
Kidde (800) 880-6788
Proteng (561) 776-8364

Fire Extinguisher Recall
The recall of millions of Kidde fire extinguishers has been widely reported, but it bears repeating. The recall involves models of Kidde extinguishers with plastic handles that were manufactured from January 1, 1973, to August 15, 2017. The fire extinguishers can become clogged or require excessive force to discharge and can fail during a fire emergency. To determine whether you have an affected model and to request a free replacement fire extinguisher, contact Kidde at (855) 271-0773 or visit www.kidde.com and click on the “Product Safety Recalls” box.

7 New Year’s Resolutions Perfect for RVers

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Mon, 28 Dec 2020 13:25:00 +0000

We’re saying good riddance to 2020 (it was a doozy) and making way for 2021! A new year means a fresh start and people across the world are making resolutions for the upcoming year. You might have a few goals already planned out for 2021, but did you include any RV related resolutions into the mix? We’ve rounded up a few of our favorites that are sure to make 2021 great.

Go on More Trips - It’s no secret that RVers love to travel, but are you making time for new adventures? Try creating your very own bucket list of short treks and long adventures for the year and involve the whole family in the research process.

Take the Long Way - RVing is all about enjoying the journey, not just getting from point A to point B. It’s often more exciting to take the scenic route as you never know what you’ll find on the road less traveled.

Attempt Boondocking - Have you always wanted to try dry camping? Why not try it in 2021? Boondocking can save you money and can be an incredible experience if you’re interested in really going off the grid.

Make New RV Friends - Building an RV community is one of the best parts of the lifestyle. Host a socially distanced campfire at your campsite or walk around and meet new people who enjoy similar activities as you do. There also are tons of online RV groups on social media that you can join to chat with like-minded people who love RVing just as much as you do. The RV community is BIG - take advantage of it!

Plan for a Change in Scenery - Have you been traveling to the same locations year after year? Branch out in 2021 and go to a new destination. Usually travel to the mountains in your RV? Why not try a beach trip this year? Remember, variety is the spice of life.

Enjoy Nature - It can be easy to have the go-go-go mentality when you’re an RVer, but take some time to slow down this coming year and really enjoy the beauty of nature. Snap a few photos, but don’t forget to take a few deep breaths of the fresh air and enjoy the silence and beauty of your surroundings.

Try Something New - This resolution can apply to just about anything! From going to new restaurants to stopping at exciting pit stops to activities like white water rafting or rock climbing. One of the best parts of RVing is that it allows you to explore new places and try new things.

Are you ready to buy an RV and make a few resolutions of your own this year?

Start your search on RVTrader.com today!

FMCA Tech Tip: Water Heater Maintenance For Your RV

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Thu, 17 Dec 2020 16:16:00 +0000

Take care of your water heater and you will be sure to have a reliable supply of hot water during your travels.

Prolonged showers at home may be taken for granted. While traveling in an RV, a hot shower might involve an interesting test of timing, especially when more than one person is considered. It is truly the experienced RVer who is aware of just how long it takes four to 16 gallons of hot water to trickle down the drain, even while practicing sound water conservation.

The typical RV water heater, however, like any propane-burning appliance, requires occasional maintenance in order to maximize its potential. Fortunately, the water heater is usually easy to access, with most mandated tasks doable by most RV handypersons. The water heater is typically situated at a comfortable height, and most components are located on the outside of the RV behind a vented door. Some older models may have parts and pieces at the rear of the unit, but for the most part, newer units have their components on the exterior.

Types Of Water Heaters

The most common type of water heater found in campers today is the direct spark ignition (DSI) model. To use this fully automatic model, all an owner has to do is to make sure the heater is properly filled with water and then flip a switch. A circuit board controls all its relative functions. Since it’s the most prevalent, the DSI type will be the focus of this article.

The second most popular choice of RV builders today is the pilot-type heater. Simple in design and function, pilot-type heaters have been an RV industry mainstay for years. Even though they are less expensive than their automatic cousins, they are less popular. It appears that automation wins out over economics.

Another type of water heater is the electric-only version. Powered by 120-volt-AC electric, these units operate only when plugged into a shoreline or when onboard generator or inverter power is available. As many manufacturers of larger RVs move toward all-electric appliances, this type is sure to become more popular. They are plentiful in the marine world as well.

Most water heaters today combine propane and electric power. An electric heating element protrudes into the tank portion of the heater, which allows the RV to utilize propane while dry camping, or power the water heater with 120-volt-AC electricity while plugged in. (Quick note: if your heater is a combination gas/electric-type model, and AC electricity is available, you can quickly bring the water temperature up by operating the unit on gas and electric at the same time.) It is not advisable to install an aftermarket electric heating element designed to replace the drain plug. Use only manufacturer-approved replacement parts.

An internal heat exchanger (motor-aid) is another option offered by water heater makers. This feature allows the motorhome’s engine coolant lines to be routed through tubing inside the storage tank, thereby heating the water while the engine is running. By the time the user reaches a destination, hot water is readily available at the faucets. While this may be convenient, the maintenance factor becomes greater with motor-aid models, because the hoses periodically need to be replaced. On some of the larger Type A motorhomes, this could be an expensive, yet necessary, undertaking. Akin to some models of RV refrigerators, water heaters, too, are available using three different energy sources.

Yet another type of water heater is making a comeback in the RV industry: the weight-saving tankless heater, which is commonly called an instantaneous water heater. This design does not involve an actual storage tank. Incoming water flows through a coil that is heated by super-sized propane burners. The flame is lit only when there is a demand for water. As soon as the hot faucet is turned off, the burner goes off as well. Activation is automatic via an impeller-type switching valve.

Finally, many owners of diesel-powered motorhomes may be familiar with hydronic heating systems in which individual zones within the coach are comfort-heated independently, while at the same time domestic water is heated and delivered to all the hot faucets inside the motorhome. Since 1984, hydronic heating systems have been installed in many brands of motorhomes. Because this type of system requires specific, atypical maintenance procedures, we’ll leave hydronic heating maintenance to a future blog. Our focus here will center on the typical DSI propane RV water heater found in thousands of RVs.

Water Heater Components
Components found on every propane water heater containing its own storage tank (pilot and DSI-type) include:

an inner storage tank
a pressure and temperature (P&T) relief valve
a drain plug; a main burner orifice
a mixing tube
the primary air adjustment.

What follows is a brief description of each of these parts and their maintenance requirements.

Storage tank
The inner tank is surrounded by insulation and typically encased with cardboard, foam, or metal. Water heaters are usually installed under a cabinet, so other than the access door, external aesthetics are not necessarily a consideration.

Flushing the tank is the main task to consider. To extend the life of the tank and to eliminate the buildup of mineral deposits inside, flush the heater at least a couple times each season. Mineral deposits settle to the bottom of the tank, so simply draining it will not completely rinse out these deposits, as the drain outlet is not positioned at the very bottom of the tank.

Pressure and temperature (P&T) relief valve
As a safety component, the P&T valve often has been viewed by RVers as an enigma of sorts. Many P&T valves have been unnecessarily replaced, deemed defective simply because they sometimes dripped water. But that is by design. Here’s why:

As any contained liquid is heated and the temperature rises, the content will expand and become pressurized. Without a means to regulate or control this expansion during the heating cycle, the unchecked pressure and temperature could eventually rupture the tank, resulting in serious injury. Water temps exceeding 210 degrees Fahrenheit are considered unsafe. Therefore, all P&T valves on today’s heaters are preset to open at 210 degrees. In the small confines of the RV water heater, the water is heated relatively quickly, so keeping up with the drastic fluctuations of both temperature and pressure is extremely important.

It is also important that a cushion of air be maintained inside the tank, above the level of the water. This air pocket acts like an accumulator during hot water delivery and also allows space for the water to expand during the heating cycle. Over time the oxygen in this air pocket is absorbed into the water, with the net result being a completely filled tank, with no void above.

At this point, there is no place for the expanding water to move into since the tank is literally full. The P&T valve then does its job — it opens. Expelling hot water from the outlet of the P&T valve allows cold water to enter the tank (thus lowering the temperature) and the relief valve closes.

P&T valves will fail over time, but, by and large, all will drip on occasion. If an adequate air cushion is maintained, the P&T relief valve should not leak. If an adequate air cushion is not maintained, then it is normal for the valve to drip water. If the valve drips or weeps during nonheating phases and the pressure within the fresh water system is regulated properly, then the relief valve may indeed be faulty.

Drain plug
All water heaters have a drain of some type. Older models incorporated an actual drain valve, while modern units use a threaded plug. Atwood (www.atwoodmobile.com) installs a plastic pipe plug. Many owners have mistakenly and inappropriately replaced the plastic plug with one made of brass. The plastic plug actually serves as a redundant safety device and should never be replaced with a metallic plug. If the plastic plug becomes damaged, always replace it with an Atwood plastic plug.

Atwood water heaters, by the way, do not require an anode, since their inner tanks are constructed of aluminum alloy. Do not cave into aftermarket attempts to sell you an anode for an Atwood water heater.

Suburban (www.rvcomfort.com) incorporates a component called an anode rod into its drain plug. Designed as a sacrificial element, the magnesium anode keeps electrolysis to a minimum and extends the life of the inner tank. All chemical and mineral reactions taking place inside the tank will attack the “weaker” molecules of the magnesium anode instead of the tank walls. Periodically, this sacrificial anode will have to be replaced. A deteriorated anode rod also may produce a less-than-favorable odor that can permeate the water system. Replace the Suburban anode rod/drain plug when it is reduced to 25 percent of its original size. On older American Appliance heaters, the anode will be accessible inside the motorhome at the rear of the heater.

Main burner orifice
The main burner orifice is threaded into the gas control valve outlet fitting. It directs a specific amount of propane into the next downstream component, the mixing tube. The orifice can be removed, soaked in acetone, allowed to air dry, and reinstalled. Never insert anything into the orifice. A simple acetone cleaning is all that is necessary to keep the gas flowing properly.

Mixing tube
The mixing tube is where the propane and the primary air are mixed just prior to combustion at the main burner. This tube, though not a precision component, must be kept clean, and more importantly, properly aligned.

As gas is projected through the main burner orifice, air is drawn in through the openings in the mixing tube. This “Venturi effect” brings in air that is needed to mix with the propane in order to have safe and complete combustion.

Make sure the mixing tube is properly centered on the main burner orifice fitting and that the alignment with the gas control valve is correct. Misalignment is one of the most common reasons for improper combustion in water heaters. The mixing tube should be in line with the flow of gas and positioned so the orifice is aimed at the direct center of the opening to the mixing tube.

This is the component that’s most prone to critter infestation, such as insect and spider nests, so make sure to check and clean it out often.

Primary air adjustment
As mentioned, the opening in the main burner orifice has a specific-size opening, so the only variable in the gas/air ratio is the amount of primary air allowed to enter. The primary air adjustment controls the volume of this incoming air.

The primary air adjustment is manipulated while the main burner flame is ignited. The flame should appear mostly blue in color with some orange or yellow tinges. Proper adjustment is attained when the flame is the correct color and also when the burner does not produce a loud, roaring flame. If you can hear the burner more than 5 feet away with the water heater door closed, chances are the mixture is incorrect and further adjustment is necessary.

In addition to the common components listed above, DSI models also incorporate a thermostat, an energy cut off (ECO) switch, a circuit board, a solenoid gas valve, and an electrode assembly.

Thermostat. Longtime coach owners might remember when all water heaters were controlled by a manually adjusted thermostat. A lever or knob was manipulated to make the water hotter or colder. With a DSI heater, adjustment of the water temperature is out of the RVer’s hands. On most units the thermostat is a preset, temperature-sensing, normally closed thermal switch that electrically turns off the heating sequence when the preset temperature has been attained. The nonadjustable thermostat is a thermal disc device secured to the front or rear of the water heater in direct contact with the inner tank. Most thermostats for DSI water heaters are preset for temperatures between 120 degrees and 140 degrees Fahrenheit. In some cases, a thermostat can be replaced with one of a higher or lower temperature rating.

ECO switch. Wired in-line between the circuit board and the gas valve, in series with the thermostat is the ECO switch. Some may contain a resettable push button; others will automatically reset once the water temperature drops below the preset temperature rating of the ECO switch. The ECO switch and the thermostat are considered high-temperature safety devices to help protect the appliance and the user. Other than keeping the wire connections clean and tight, no maintenance is required for the ECO switch or the thermostat.

Circuit board. The circuit board is the heart of any DSI appliance. Similar to a furnace board, the circuit board for a water heater energizes and opens the gas solenoid valve; creates a high-voltage spark that ignites the burner; monitors the flame sense circuit from the electrode assembly; and places the unit into lockout when it fails to detect a flame. Clean the contact strip where the multipin connector plugs in. Consider purchasing a product called DeoxIT (www.caig.com). Small amounts of corrosion, invisible to the naked eye, can prohibit proper current conduction, often resulting in strange operating characteristics. Keeping the board contacts clean and preserved will minimize or eliminate erratic operation.

Solenoid gas valve. The solenoid gas valve is controlled by the circuit board. The incoming gas tube attaches to one side of this valve while the main burner fitting and orifice are located at the other end. Energized by a 12-volt-DC electric coming from the circuit board, the gas valve will remain open as long as it is receiving voltage. The gas solenoid valve closes only under the following normal conditions: when the water temperature reaches the maximum thermostat rating; when the ECO trips and opens; and when the 12-volt-DC power supply is interrupted from the circuit board.

As with the thermostat and ECO, just keep the electrical connections on the gas valve clean, dry, and tight.

Electrode assembly. The electrode assembly receives the high-voltage output from the circuit board and creates an electrical arc to ground. At the same time, the gas and air mixture is forced to flow through this electrical arc, initiating fuel ignition at the burner. The electrode probe also “senses” the presence of the flame and sends a micro-amp signal back to the board, allowing the gas valve to remain open. If the flame is extinguished for any reason, the micro-amp circuit between the electrode and board is broken, and the board shuts off the voltage to the gas valve, thereby closing it and stopping the flow of propane.

This electrode assembly is susceptible to carbon buildup and heat stresses over a period of time. Many circuit boards have been replaced in error when the cause of an outage has simply been a dirty electrode assembly. Periodically removing the carbon deposits and brightening each electrode will help keep the heater working properly.

Carbon deposits can be cleaned off and the probes brightened with steel wool. Inspect the probes and replace the entire assembly when the probes become pitted or if a portion of the ceramic insulator is broken. Check the gap between the probes. If the electrode assembly has three probes, the gap between the spark probe and the ground probe should be half as large as the gap between the ground probe and the flame sense probe. Manipulate only the center ground probe to achieve this spacing differential. If the arc jumps from the spark probe to the flame sense probe, it will damage the circuit board, which could be an expensive consequence.

If the electrode assembly has only two probes, the gap between them should measure approximately 1/8-inch. Take care when adjusting these probes. If any portion of the ceramic insulator becomes cracked or broken, the entire electrode assembly will have to be replaced.

There are also variables outside the water heater unit that need to be maintained and monitored for optimal performance.

Battery voltage. To operate correctly, the incoming DC voltage must be maintained between 10.5 and 13.5 volts to all DSI appliances, whether on battery power or through the converter. Also, do not overlook the negative side of DC circuitry. A faulty ground connection at the water heater can cause erratic operation and outages.

Propane gas pressure. At least once each year, have a professional RV service technician measure and adjust the propane delivery line pressure, evaluate the regulator lockup pressure, and have the entire propane system checked for leaks. These tests will ensure all the propane-burning appliances are fed the proper gas pressure. Ignoring this can lead to intermittent operation, appliance failure, undetected leaks, and regulator failure. It is a safety issue.

Additional Water Heater Tips
At least once (maybe twice) during the camping season, it will be necessary to perform the described maintenance procedures on the water heater. Remember, the heater’s controls are exposed to the elements; therefore road grime, dust, and dirt have ample opportunity to gather in and around the various components. Periodically blowing the exposed areas of the water heater with compressed air will help to minimize this condition. Likewise, soot and remnants of combustion will gather in the flue portion of the heater. Blow through the flue occasionally with compressed air as well. Be sure to wear eye protection when performing this step, as flying debris will be present.

Though most RVs come from the factory outfitted with a water heater bypass kit, it is advised to install one if yours is not so equipped. Permanently attached to the rear of the water heater, the valve configuration of a bypass kit allows the water heater to be closed off from the rest of the fresh water plumbing system. This is helpful when the RV’s plumbing system is winterized and RV antifreeze is used.

Purchase a kit equipped with metallic valves. Plastic bypass valves can contribute to water heater operational issues such as intermittent hot water and low hot water pressure, among other symptoms. Brass valves will not distort with prolonged exposure to heat, and they are not prone to failure.

In addition, there might be a one-way check valve positioned at the cold inlet fitting at the rear of the water heater (there also may be one at the water heater outlet). This prevents heated water from migrating out of the heater and back into the cold water plumbing. Normally, this isn’t an issue, but if there happens to be a cold water tee plumbed into the system fairly close to the rear of the water heater, heated water can be drawn into another fixture, such as the toilet. It can be a bit unnerving to see steam rising from the toilet whenever it’s flushed. You chuckle, but it has happened!

Although a check valve has no maintenance requirements, it is mentioned in case your water heater does not have one at the cold inlet. It’s relatively easy to install, and it just may save the heater from expending unnecessary energy trying to heat water in the cold distribution piping just outside of the water heater itself.

The Wrap-Up
As with many items aboard the RV, preventive maintenance practices will not only extend the life of the water heater, but they can eliminate, or at least minimize, those pesky interruptions during excursions. As usual, if you do not feel comfortable performing any of the procedures listed here, do not attempt them. Simply call your local RV service shop. Service centers employing certified or master certified technicians stand more than ready to perform this service for you. And remember, RVing is more than a hobby; it’s a lifestyle!

How to Correctly Flush the RV Water Heater

1. Make sure all energy sources to the water heater are turned off and that the water inside the tank has cooled.

2. Turn off all sources of water pressure — the demand pump and the city water supply — and bleed off the water system pressure by opening a faucet.

3. Drain the water heater by removing the plug. To aid in draining, open all the hot faucets throughout the RV.

4. If water barely trickles out of the drain opening at this point, carefully insert a straightened coat hanger into the tank to help break up any calcified deposits. Take special care not to scrape the inner sides of the tank, or damage may result.

5. Use a water heater cleanout tool to help flush mineral deposits. When all evidence of cloudy water has been eliminated, close all the hot faucets opened earlier and turn on the city water supply or the demand pump — the higher the pressure, the better. If a pressure regulator is normally used in-line with the city connection, temporarily remove it for this step.

6. Open the pressure and temperature (P&T) relief valve and allow water to gush from the drain opening as fresh water rushes in.

7. Allow this flushing to continue for five to 10 minutes. This will remove any stagnant water along with any remaining mineral particles in the tank.

8. After about 10 minutes of flushing, turn off the water source; reinstall the drain plug; and close the P&T valve by allowing the lever to snap shut.

9. Turn on a water pressure source once again and open all the hot water faucets inside the coach until water flows freely from all hot faucets. This will automatically fill the water heater and eliminate air pockets in the distribution system.

10. Finally, turn off the water source but leave the hot faucets open. Then open the P&T relief valve once again to release any water at the top of the tank. This establishes that needed cushion of air on top of the water. Remember, this air gap is necessary so the heated water will have room to expand. When water stops dripping from the P&T valve, close the hot faucets inside the motorhome and the P&T valve. The heater is now ready for operation.

FMCA RV Club brings you this monthly tech tip to Enhance Your RV Lifestyle. FMCA delivers RV know-how to its members. Learn more at FMCA.com.

This information is for educational purposes. FMCA shall not be responsible nor retain liability for RVer’s use of the provided information. Prior to making any RV service decision, you are advised to consult with an RV professional.

The Ultimate Gift Guide For RVers

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Thu, 03 Dec 2020 14:36:00 +0000

It's hard to believe the holiday season is already upon us! That means it's time to start shopping for friends, family, and loved ones. Holiday shopping can often be a daunting task, but with our ultimate gift guide for RVers, it doesn't have to be. We have complied a list of our favorite items that any RVer would love to receive during the holiday season. Start making your personal wish list today!

Home, Hearth & Camper

Image: PersonalizationMall

Happy Camper Custom Doormat - This adorable doormat features a vintage camper and can be customized with your family's name. This doormat can be taken with you on the road or will make you remember your travels while you’re at home.

Funny RV Dish Towel - It’s no secret that parking an RV can be difficult. The saying on this dish towel (“Sorry for what I said when we were parking the camper”) rings true for many RVers. This would be a perfect stocking stuffer for the RVer in your life!

Organization, Innovative Tools & Life Hacks

Image: Bellemain

Spice Gripper - Saving space in an RV is crucial and this spice gripper can help with just that! Simply stick the clip strips to the inside of your RV cabinets and your spices will be neatly tucked away for the next time you need them. You can cut the strips to custom fit your specific cabinets.

Hitch Safe - Keep your keys, cards, and money safe with this hitch safe. It is designed to store up to 9 spare keys, cards, and more. You can easily set a combination to keep your belongings safe even when you're away from your campsite exploring the great wide somewhere.

Tech & Gadgets

Image: BLAVOR

Solar Powered Phone Charger - When you’re out hiking or exploring, the last thing you want to worry about is your phone dying. Now you won’t have to with this solar powered phone charger. This phone charger also comes with a compass kit and can also be used as a flashlight.

Waterproof Bluetooth Speaker - Get ready for crystal clear music to pump through this waterproof bluetooth speaker. Whether you’re hanging out in your RV or you’re crowded around the campfire, this speaker will set the perfect mood. The COMISO Waterproof Bluetooth Speaker provides 20 hours of high quality sound, and is both lightweight and easy to use.

Outdoor & Adventure

Image: Wise Owl

Camping Hammock - Enjoy the relaxation of the outdoors with this durable camping hammock. The Wise Owl Outfitters Hammock is made out of heavy duty 210T parachute nylon which makes it incredibly lightweight and portable - perfect to throw in the RV!

Outdoor Rocking Camping Chair - A quality camping chair is essential for any RVer. This chair has a rocking feature that allows you to fully relax after a long day of traveling or adventuring. It easily folds flat for storage and has a mesh back to keep you cool. You’ll want to get one for each family member!

Cooking & Grilling

Image: Uncommongoods

Outdoor Popcorn Popper - With this outdoor popcorn popper, you can easily make the perfect bowl of popcorn over a campfire or grill. The popper is made from material that is extremely durable and can make 3 quarts of popcorn in just 4-5 minutes. The long handle keeps your hands away from the fire so all you have to worry about is having fun.

Easy Campfire Cooking Cookbook - Cookbooks are always a great holiday gift idea and this one is especially great for the outdoor lover in your life! This campfire cookbook has over 200 family-friendly campfire recipes that are easy to follow.

Glassware

Image: Brovino

Silicone Wine Glasses - These portable silicone wine glasses should be on everyone’s RV wishlist this year. These glasses are unbreakable, lightweight, and perfect for a crisp glass of wine. They are completely dishwasher safe and worry free!

YETI Tumbler - A YETI is an easy gift that anyone can use and enjoy. They are perfect for enjoying a beverage in the great outdoors and they can keep your drink cool for hours. This tumbler comes in a variety of colors and includes a top to keep your drink from spilling.

Kitchen

Image: Surpahs

Over the Sink Drying Rack - Saving space is crucial in an RV, so clear up countertops with this over the sink drying rack. It comes in a variety of sizes and is resistant to rust. Not only does this handy rack save space while drying your dishes, it also rolls up for easy, out-of-the-way storage when not in use.

Trailer Shaped Cutting Board - Whether you’re slicing vegetables or creating a charcuterie board, a good cutting board is essential. This trailer shaped cutting board can get the job done all while being super cute. The RVer in your life (including you!) will love this rustic, practical gift.

Subscriptions and Memberships

Image: USGS

America the Beautiful Passes - Give the gift of adventure by purchasing an America the Beautiful Pass. This pass is a ticket to more than 2,000 federal recreation sites. The pass also covers entrance fees at national parks and national wildlife refuges. This is the ultimate gift for any RVer.

FMCA Membership - A membership with the Family Motor Coach Association gives member-only discounts and services specifically designed for RVers. It also includes RV education, attendance at rallies, and so much more!

Novelty

Image: Journals Unlimited

Camper’s Journal - Looking for a creative way to capture all of your camping memories? Look no further than this camper’s journal. You can document all of your camping activities with its easy-to-fill-in journal format.

Vintage Camper Address Stamp - Let whoever you send mail to know that you are a proud RVer with this customized address stamp. The high-quality stamp features a vintage camper and reminds the recipient that home is where you park it!

Pets & Animals

Image: COMSUN

Collapsable Dog Bowls - Save additional space in your RV by packing these collapsible dog bowls for your furry friends. They are lightweight and easy to store in a backpack if you plan on taking your dogs on hikes or any other outdoor adventures. They may be geared towards puppies, but these bowls will also work if you brought your cat on the road, too!

Safety Glow Necklace Collar - Your dog will stand out from the other pups at the campground with this LED collar necklace. It allows you and others to easily see your pet at night and is great for walks anywhere you travel.

Kids

Image: OASCUVER

Happy Camper Onesie - Even your littlest camper needs some RV swag! This 100% cotton onesie is super soft and features a bright vintage trailer that will make any RVer smile.

State Sticker Map - This state sticker map is fun for the whole family. Easily mark off the states you’ve traveled to with colorful stickers. The stickers include beautiful graphics of each state and are ideal for tracking your travels.

7 Holiday Light Shows Across The Country You Can’t Miss

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 01 Dec 2020 13:25:00 +0000

FMCA Tech Tip: RV Storage - Some Do’s and Don’ts

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Fri, 13 Nov 2020 14:53:00 +0000

As we move further into fall, memories of our summer RVing excursions may still linger in our minds. But with the coming chill, so too does the thought of putting our faithful RV into storage mode. Though a seemingly mundane task, there is a correct methodology for getting your coach ready for any period of non-use; especially if you are contemplating utilizing one of the available private or public storage facilities. Certain precautions, correctly applied, will guarantee your coach will stand a better chance of surviving its secluded hibernation.

The first necessary decision is whether to store your rig at home or off-site at a dedicated RV storage facility. If you have a relatively level space at your residence, there’s no need to spend the bucks at a facility unless security is an issue. But keep in mind, many municipalities are cracking down on stored RVs within residential areas, even those parked on the street. It is your responsibility to learn if your home base has any new RV restrictions. Also check your existing Covenants, Conditions, and Restrictions (CC&R’s), if applicable.

RV Storage Locations

Everything from a vacant dirt lot to an indoor five-star, temperature-controlled facility can be considered for parking your rig for any period of non-use. When deciding which level of sophistication (and subsequent degree of expense) to evaluate, the primary concern should always be the overall security and welfare of your RV. A nicely paved, inexpensive level lot behind a locked gate might sound appealing, but if its location is remote, it might not be a wise choice. An isolated location might be susceptible to vandals or break-ins. Do your homework when considering such a location.

Also, it’s best to avoid non-paved or non-concreted areas like a grassy or dirt field, even at home. Critters of all types can be invasive in and around an inactive RV. Additionally, dusty or dirty locations will equate to more preventive maintenance requirements at some point. Areas of high winds should also be avoided, especially if a total coach cover is employed. Flapping covers can damage the roofing material and the finish on the sidewalls if care is not taken.

A facility designed especially for RV and marine vehicles is preferred, especially if it comes with built-in security precautions. An on-site security guard is a big plus, but strategically mounted security cameras are also a good thing to look for in a suitable site. Well-designed facilities will also have plenty of room between coaches to access storage compartments, generator and appliance access doors, the roof ladder and the entry door.

Though more expensive, indoor facilities provide the best environment for your dormant RV. Out of the weather, out of the sun and away from ozone bombardment are advantages that will go a long way in preserving your coach.

All RV storage facilities will come with some type of a contract, so be sure to read every word as well as the “fine print” twice! Be sure you understand exactly what you are agreeing to! Ask every question before signing on the dotted line.

Call your insurance company and inquire if they have any restrictions, suggestions, or comments regarding the facility you are considering. See if you can suspend portions of your benefits during the period of non-use. Not having to pay for collision coverage, for example, will save a few dollars on your premium.

Once you’ve made an informed decision as to where your coach will be stored, next it’s time to prepare the coach for its induced hibernation. Be sure to remove all remnants of food from within the RV. As mentioned previously, you certainly don’t want it to appear inviting to the critters! All invasive animals and insects require three things in order to take up residence in your vacated vacation vehicle; food, water and entry. Eliminate any one and your RV is much better off.

Preparing the RV

Flush and drain every holding tank. The fresher the tanks, the better the chance of minimizing sewer odor build-up and blockages. Don’t forget to flush and rinse the sewer hose as well! If possible, lubricate the termination valves, but leave them in the closed position.

Some RVers remove every drop of water from the fresh water plumbing system, but if below freezing weather is anticipated, I recommend the wet method of winterizing, whereby RV anti-freeze is pumped throughout the fresh water piping system and poured into every P-trap. Enough anti-freeze should also be flushed down the toilet and sinks; just enough to cover the bottom of each holding tank.

Ensure the propane container is turned completely off and that all the appliances are off. Check the integrity of the cover over the propane regulator.

If outdoors, cut cardboard inserts to position inside the water heater and refrigerator exterior access panels to keep the dust and dirt accumulation to a minimum. Cover the furnace intake and exhaust assemblies with blue painter’s tape to keep insects from entering.

Place an opened box of baking soda or an appropriate desiccant/absorbent inside the refrigerator food compartments and prop open the refrigerator door(s).

If possible, remove the batteries when expecting sustained below freezing temperatures or if the coach will be in a remote, unsecured location. Always fully charge all batteries before storing the rig. Once fully charged, employ the battery disconnect device, if so equipped, or at the very least, remove the ground terminals from the batteries to disconnect them totally. Remove all dry cell batteries too!

Turn off all 120-volt (AC) circuit breakers and unplug any device that plugs into a receptacle, such as the refrigerator, microwave/convection oven, washer, dryer, entertainment centers, icemakers, televisions, etc. Rogue lightning strikes, even a couple hundred yards away, can cause problems. Expensive problems!

Thoroughly inspect the underneath portions of the RV. Look closely for any cracks or openings into the floor or interior of the coach. Seal around drain piping, propane tubing and electrical harnesses that extend through the floor into the living areas of the coach.

When parked on asphalt, use non-absorbing, synthetic blocks under the footprints of the tires. If stored outdoors, cover the tires to minimize UV and ozone contamination and obscure the windows to avoid sun damage and the fading of fabrics. In high moisture locales, place absorbent desiccant inside the two major living sections of the RV.

Consider using a total coach cover, but take precautions to keep the cover from rubbing on the roof or at the edges. This can be damaging to synthetic roofing materials such as EPDM rubber or TPO. At the very least, it’s a wise decision to install a rooftop air conditioner cover if a coach cover is not used.

If possible, leave a roof vent cracked open slightly at one end of the RV and a window cracked open at the opposite end. This will induce a bit of convection airflow inside the coach to minimize the progression of mold and mildew.

Check all window, roof vents and door seals and weather-stripping. As I often mention, moisture intrusion is the biggest cause of RV damage. Also, treat all exposed exterior surfaces with the appropriate protectant.

Periodic Visitation

When possible, visit your hibernating rolling home from time to time; especially if the period of non-use extends past just a few weeks. It’s a wise RVer who changes the position of the RV at least once a month, moving it forward or backwards slightly, to alter the footprint of the tires to prevent flat spots from developing. Just a foot or two is usually all that is required.

It is also recommended to periodically start a gasoline motorhome engine and to exercise a gasoline generator, when so equipped. Consult the owner’s manual for your make of chassis and generator for specific instructions, but the general consensus is to run the generator for a couple hours at half-load, at least once a month, in order to prohibit varnishing of the fuel. One single two-hour run at half-load is much better than a bunch of short runs. Diesel powered RVs and generators will likely require different procedures, so be sure to follow the recommendations of the manufacturer to avoid performance issues when it’s time to awaken your resting rig from its respite.

Once a month, carefully inspect the roof for entry points of water intrusion if a total coach cover is not employed. Always perform roof repairs as soon as leaks are discovered. Do not wait until you remove the coach from storage! Any damage will only get worse over time.

When it is time to remove your RV from storage, always consult with the facility manager to absolve any dispute or damage issue possibly incurred during the storage period before moving the RV. Be sure to re-activate your full insurance coverage!

By carefully determining and acknowledging your requirements ahead of time, and wisely choosing the best-suited storage location, your RV will safely endure its period of non-use and present itself ready for the next step, the spring shakedown! And remember, RVing is more than a hobby, it’s a lifestyle!

How to Cook Thanksgiving Dinner on a Campfire

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 03 Nov 2020 17:41:00 +0000

Top Destinations for Fall Foliage

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Fri, 16 Oct 2020 13:41:00 +0000

Fall is a favorite time of year for many because of the brisk air, seasonal fun, and the endless amounts of fall foliage to view. Bright reds, yellows, and oranges fill the trees just as the leaves begin to fall. There are so many wonderful destinations to view fall foliage, but it can be hard to know exactly where to go. Luckily, we are breaking a few of our favorites down for you. So grab your pumpkin spice latte, and get ready to hit the road in your RV this autumn.

Image: Romantic Asheville

Blue Ridge Parkway, Virginia & North Carolina - The Blue Ridge Parkway is an increasingly popular place to take in views of the stunning fall colors autumn brings. The colors peak during late October, so there’s still time to plan your trip! The parkway is long, running from Virginia to North Carolina, so you’re sure to find the perfect viewing locations along your route. October is one of the busiest months to visit, and with extra cars on the road, it’s important to drive slowly and keep your eyes on the road (until you’re ready to pull over to take in the breathtaking sights).

Must-do: We highly recommend taking a pit stop at Cascade Falls at Milepost 271.9. This waterfall is truly stunning and is located in E. B. Jeffress Park. To get to the falls you’ll need to take a short hike (just over a mile) and there you will find beautiful views and scenic overlooks along the way.

Image: Backroad Ramblers

Route 100, Vermont - Route 100 can be found in the center of Vermont and runs over 200 miles from north to south along the Green Mountains (although they are yellow, red, and orange in the fall). This route goes by many nicknames, one of which is “The Skier’s Highway” because it connects to a variety of popular skiing destinations. Many also say it’s one of the most scenic drives in New England and the views are top-notch in the fall. There are plenty of interesting places and fun towns to stop and stretch your legs when you’re taking your fall foliage tour.

Must-do: Don’t miss Moss Glen Falls in Granville along this route. The 30-ft. waterfall is truly stunning and you can even see it from your RV if you don’t want to step outside (although we encourage you to!) If you have a craving for sweets along your route, you are in luck! One of the most popular destinations along Route 100 is the Ben and Jerry’s Factory in Waterbury. Be sure to check it out if you pass by and let us know your favorite flavor.

Image: Popsugar

Acadia National Park, Maine - Acadia National Park is located in Maine and is referred to as the crown jewel of the North Atlantic Coast. This park encompasses more than 40,000 acres of land and is the oldest park east of the Mississippi River. Acadia National Park is quintessential Maine and it’s even more striking in the fall months. The park is lined by miles of jagged coastline, lighthouses, and stunning trees. There are ocean views for as far as the eye can see and the weather in Maine during fall is perfect for hiking and other activities.

Must-do: Thunder Hole is one of the parks most popular attractions that we recommend checking out. When the tides are just right, the surf rushes into a narrow cavern and forces out air from beneath the cliffs, creating a thunderous sound.

Image: USDA Forest Service

Aspen, Colorado - Aspen is one of the top destinations in Colorado to take in views of the fall colors. The golden yellow Aspen Trees are stunning and there are a variety of places to take in the scenic views. But we suggest checking out the Maroon Bells Scenic Area. This open area of land boasts many hiking trails and is one of the most photographed places in Aspen. There are incredible views of Crater Lake and Maroon Lake where the colorful trees mirror off of the clear water.

Must-do: While you’re in the area, we recommend visiting Ashcroft. Ashcroft is a scenic, abandoned mining town just South of Aspen. It may seem spooky to some, but the views are stunning - don’t forget your camera!

Image: Fun Lake

The Lake of the Ozarks, Missouri - The Lake of the Ozarks in Missouri rounds out our list of top destinations for fall foliage. The leaves truly show off their vibrance in mid-to-late October and they are not to be missed. The weather starts to get chilly this time of year but is nothing like Missouri’s colder winter months. There are plenty of places to take a boat out to see the beautiful fall colors on the water as opposed to land.

Must-do: Once you’ve seen your fill of fall foliage, check out some of the most popular caves at the Lake. We recommend taking a trip to Bridal Cave where you’ll see epic rock formations and another underground lake!

Are you ready to hit the road and take in all of the fall colors this season? We hope these destinations have inspired you to take a trip of your own this autumn. Have you been to any of these destinations? Which was your favorite? Let us know in the comments below.

Tech Tip: RV Waste Management 101

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Fri, 16 Oct 2020 12:00:00 +0000

It’s the topic that no RVer enjoys. However, waste containment and odor control are necessary aspects of RVing. FMCA and the “RV Doctor” Gary Bunzer present RV Waste Management 101.

The Basics

Your RV’s waste plumbing is made of two components: the gray system (liquid waste) and the black system (solid waste). Gray tanks can be outfitted with a drain opening as small as 1-1/2-inch. Black tanks are required to have a 3-inch outlet. As many RVers know, any accumulation of waste within these drain openings or the holding tank system can lead to odors.

Nothing can ruin an RV trip faster than having holding tank odors permeate the RV’s interior, so let’s examine the common causes of RV odors…

P-traps

The first line of defense against invading fumes is the water lock, which is established by P-traps located below the sinks and tub/shower drains.

Long a staple in the plumbing industry, the common P-trap works well in residential homes. However, because of the seasonal nature of RVing, P-traps in RVs typically are used less frequently, which can result in the P-trap’s water seal becoming diminished. The jostling that occurs while traveling; improper siphoning action during highway turns and tank evacuations; or simply drying out from non-use can render the water seal ineffective at blocking odors.

P-trap

In addition, the P-trap requires diligent maintenance, including frequent cleanings and freeze protection. If neglected, waste residue inside the trap can foster bacteria growth and subsequent odors.

However, there is an alternative to the common P-trap: the HepvO waterless sanitary valve. Available in the aftermarket and now found on many RVs right from the factory, the HepvO waterless valve replaces the P-trap, creating an effective seal against odors. This sanitary valve is constructed with a self-sealing, flexible, silicone membrane that allows water to flow through it but completely closes off when water flow stops. Therefore, holding tank odors are prevented from migrating up and through the sinks, tub, or shower.

HepvO

The Toilet

As for the toilet, keep water in the bowl at all times, though that may be challenging when the RV is stored. Still, with water in the bowl, you are guaranteed that no holding tank odors can escape into the RV’s living area.

If your RV’s toilet will not hold water, chances are it is time to replace the internal seals and gaskets. You’d be surprised to see just how many seals are used in an RV toilet! Dry toilet seals are the main sources of black tank odors. Most toilet manufacturers offer gasket repair kits. Most likely, this type of maintenance will be necessary at some point during your RVing career.

Waste System Venting

Venting is required for both the black and the gray systems. How do RV manufacturers accomplish this? The common method is to run a length of thermoplastic ABS pipe from the holding tank up and through the roof of the RV.

The importance of proper venting cannot be overstated, especially as it relates to odor control. Without correct venting, sinks will not drain properly; bacteria can propagate; and holding tanks will not drain as quickly or completely.

Keep in mind, as a holding tank empties or a sink drains, fresh air must enter the drainage system. Since holding tanks rely solely on gravity for emptying, having air enter the system as sinks and tanks are drained results in a faster and more thorough process. To accomplish proper air flow, there are two types of vents used in RV waste systems: direct exterior vents and anti-siphon trap vent devices.

Waste system venting

Vent Type #1 - Direct Exterior Vents & Maintenance

Direct exterior vents connect the waste system to the atmosphere outside. As mentioned earlier, most RV manufacturers install a vertical piece of ABS piping up and through the roof for both the black and gray systems. (If you own a small RV, it is possible your RV has a different type of direct vent: a side-mounted vent. Side venting is only permissible in the liquid waste system and only found on compact RVs.)

Sometimes RV manufacturers cut a large hole in the ceiling and roof during installation of the vertical vent pipe. Oftentimes, this opening is not sealed properly around the outside perimeter of the pipe. In other instances, the vent pipe itself may not extend far enough above the roofline; the industry rule is that the vent pipe must extend at least 2 inches above the roof. If the vent pipe is not sealed properly, tank odors can pass up the direct exterior vent; collide with the underside of the sewer vent cap; be forced back down the sides of the vent pipe; travel into the ceiling area; and then migrate to the living area.

To ensure this doesn’t happen in your rig, remove the sewer vent(s) on the roof and ensure the space around the vent pipe is sealed tightly. Also, make sure that the pipe itself stands at least two inches above the roof. If necessary, extend the vent by using a common ABS coupling and a short piece of pipe.

In addition, depending on how the vent is attached to the top of the holding tank, vent pipes have been known to fall down inside the tank below the surface of the waste, nullifying any venting action and allowing odors to exit the tank. By inspecting the vent termination on the roof regularly, this can be avoided.

Vent Type #2 - Anti-Siphon Trap Vent Devices (ASTVD) & Maintenance

The second type of vent is the anti-siphon trap vent device (ASTVD), nicknamed “check vents.” These are used as secondary vents to aid in draining sink fixtures. They allow air into the drainage system but prohibit air from passing out of the system. ASTVDs are installed in the liquid drain piping system at or near a P-trap inside a cabinet. Look under your RV’s kitchen and bathroom sink areas to find them. They are mounted at least 6 inches above the P-trap’s horizontal arm. ASTVDs do not allow odors to escape into the living portion of the RV, thanks to a pressure-controlled, rubberized, one-way valve. In other words: air in but not out.

The rubber membrane employed in ASTVDs can sometimes dry out and become stuck in the open position. If holding tank odors are prominent under a galley or bathroom cabinet near the P-trap, chances are it is time to lubricate the rubber seal inside the ASTVD. Use lubricant to moisten the rubber diaphragm. Since it is located above the actual flow of waste water, the ASTVD is simply threaded into a fitting above the trap arm and can be easily removed for periodic maintenance.

Tank Additives

Enzyme-based, bacteria-infused blends have proven to be the most effective type of tank additive. These blends actually digest the odor-causing molecules at the source inside the waste tanks, thereby eliminating odors rather than masking them.

Some holding tank treatments may consist of harmful chemicals such as formaldehydes. Try to avoid these if possible. The issue of chemical products has prompted many state parks, campgrounds, dump stations, and local municipalities to ban the evacuation of RV holding tanks if such chemicals are used.

Remember that, to a certain extent, RV holding tanks are living, thriving environments. Anti-bacterial soaps, detergents, or DIY treatments can destroy the “good bugs” that are beneficial in helping the elimination of odors.

Tank Monitoring and Blockage

Most RVs today feature some visual method to help owners determine the fluid levels in the holding tanks. This is normally accomplished with “through the wall” monitoring sensors attached to the tanks. Others use externally applied, electronic sensors. It’s those “through the wall” sensors that can be aggravating for RVers. False or inaccurate monitor panel indications caused by tank sludge and debris stuck on the sensor probes are far too common.

The easiest way to avoid black tank blockages is to use copious amounts of fresh water during each flushing of solid waste. Always be sure to cover the very bottom of each holding tank with fresh water after each evacuation. Do not store the RV for lengthy periods with contents still in the tank.

A Happy Holding Tank…

Being proactive when it comes to your RV’s waste system will reap its rewards for you and also protect the environment. If anything, it will ease offensive smells! A happy holding tank is a healthy holding tank.

And, remember, when working on your RV’s waste plumbing system, even when simply “dumping” the holding tanks, take safety precautions. Wear disposable gloves when handling sewer hoses and connections. And when using hand tools while working on these systems, be sure to clean and disinfect them after each use.

FMCA RV Club brings you this monthly tech tip to Enhance Your RV Lifestyle. FMCA delivers RV know-how to its members. Learn more at FMCA.com.

This information is for educational purposes. FMCA shall not be responsible nor retain liability for RVer’s use of the provided information. Prior to making any RV service decision, you are advised to consult with an RV professional.

Campfire Hacks

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Fri, 18 Sep 2020 18:15:00 +0000

5 Things to Do Before Becoming a Full-Time RVer

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Wed, 16 Sep 2020 14:47:00 +0000

There’s nothing like hitting the road full time - it brings unparalleled freedom. But there are a few things that you need to do before you become a full-time RVer. Check out our tips and tricks for living life on the road.

Pick the Right RV - Buying an RV is a huge commitment. That’s why picking the right one the first time is so important. You’ll want to consider these quick tips when buying an RV:

Determine Your Budget - How much can you afford? Keep in mind that the cost is not only the initial RV purchase but also insurance, maintenance, operating costs to travel, etc.

Determine Your Family Needs - How many people will be traveling with you? Will you be bringing pets or specialized equipment on your adventures? A place to sleep may not be the only requirement your travelers hope to check off the list.

Decide on the Type of RV - Next consider the type of RV you'd like to have. RV categories include Type A, Type C, or Type B motorhomes, Fifth Wheels, and Travel Trailers. If you are bringing some equipment like ATVs or golf carts along, the Toy Hauler family is another available option. A good place to start researching the types of RVs is on RV Trader.

Looking for more detailed guidance? Check out our RV Buyer’s Guide for more detailed information on selecting your perfect RV.

Minimize Your “Things” - Living life on the road means taking only what you need with you. Space is typically limited in most RVs so you’ll want to consolidate your items to only the essentials. Getting rid of items is always a bit hard, especially if they have sentimental value, but it’s important to maintain a more minimalist lifestyle in an RV. Try creating a checklist of essential items you’ll need during your travels and be sure to stick to it! If you have seasonal items that you need to store, look into storage facilities that can house these items for you until you need them.

Be Ready For Anything… Including Maintenance - It’s important to have a “go with the flow” mentality on the road but it’s equally important to be as prepared as possible. We encourage you to pack a basic safety and tool kit should any problems arise. We also recommend having a budget set aside for any RV maintenance that might be needed as you’re traveling. Maintenance can be costly at times, and you don’t want to deplete your savings at a moment’s notice.

Find Reliable Campsites or Explore Boondocking - After long days of travel, you need to find reliable places to park your RV for the night. Luckily, there are thousands of RV Parks and Campgrounds across the country, but they aren’t always the easiest to find along your route. We highly recommend planning your campsites ahead of time or try downloading apps like Park Advisor, Reserve America, or Allstays to find the nearest sites in an instant. If you are looking to save a bit of money on the road, boondocking or “dry camping” is also a great option to consider.

Prepare to Work on the Road - To most people, the terms “working” and “traveling” don’t always go together but when you are a full-time RVer, they can go hand in hand. When you’re working from the road, you’ll need to make sure you have a reliable source of WiFi. We recommend looking into buying your own mobile hotspot device so you can have Internet access wherever you find yourself. It’s also a great idea to create a dedicated workspace in your RV to increase focus on the road.

If you’ve been curious about becoming a full-time RVer, our friends at Live, Camp, Work are hosting their free Make Money & RV Virtual Summit on October 1-5. Their panel of engaging speakers will cover everything you need to know about living life on wheels including remote work, workamping, small business ideas, and so much more. They will also be sharing stories from the road, practical advice, top tips, and insider info all RVers should know. You won’t want to miss this - trust us.

Interested in this exciting, insightful, and high-value event? Register for the free Make Money & RV Virtual Summit at the link below and get ready to hit the road!

REGISTER HERE

Top RV Mistakes to Avoid for New RVers

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Wed, 16 Sep 2020 14:36:00 +0000

The RV lifestyle is filled with fun and adventure, and those who are willing to take the plunge rarely look back. That being said, if you go into RVing without knowing what you’re doing, you may make some mistakes that you will wish you hadn’t. Fortunately, our friends at FMCA have been RV experts for nearly 60 years, and they are here to help you start your journey on a positive note. Get off to a good start by avoiding their top RV mistakes!

Traveling too far in one day
This is a mistake most RVers recognize. To discover your personal daily driving limit, you may need to have a few rough days where you overdo it and learn the hard way. A good rule of thumb is the "3 or 3 rule" —arrive at your destination by 3 pm, or drive 300 miles in one day, whichever happens first.

Buying the first RV you look at

This might seem obvious for some, but many people don’t know how customizable some RVs actually are and how many different RV floor plans exist. If you “sort of” like the model but you wish there were more kitchen space, or would prefer a larger bathroom, then speak up! If you’re willing to wait a little longer or travel outside your immediate shopping area, you can likely find the PERFECT model for how you plan to use your RV. If you still feel overwhelmed, check out a few RV Buying Tips.

Check out the latest models on RV Trader.

Packing too much

Part of being an RVer is learning how to be resourceful. Packing too much is an easy mistake to make until you learn how to minimize your tools, equipment, and creature comforts. Efficient RVers become resourceful in how they cook, clean, and pack their clothing. For example, if you will never be cooking for more than two or four people, there is no need to bring along every pot, pan, and dish from your kitchen.

The same goes for your clothes (depending on your laundry machine situation, this may be easier for you) and other camping equipment. Traveling with less is better on your fuel economy, easier to pack and unpack things, and the mental clarity of having less clutter will be very beneficial.

Winging it without a checklist

A well-crafted checklist can make your campsite setup or tear-down process run smoothly and consistently each time. This is handy for those of you who are moving around between campgrounds a lot or who camp infrequently and may forget steps in the process without a reminder. If you haven’t downloaded it yet, FMCA has an app that is available for iPhone and Android where you can download premade checklists or create your own customized checklists.

Not seeking proper RV training
Owning an RV is a learning process, but you don’t want to jump into it without any knowledge at all. You’ll want to start reading up on RVing ahead of making your purchase and hitting the road. There are hundreds of online forums and Facebook groups that you can join to discuss various important topics with other RVers. If you’re serious about improving your RV knowledge, check out the quizzes, lessons, and educational articles at FMCA University.

Not planning an RV-friendly route

If you’re new to RVing, you might not realize that there are certain routes that you simply cannot take due to size and height restrictions. There may be narrow roads, small tunnels, or low bridges along your route. If you aren’t expecting these limitations, you may end up spending multiple hours being rerouted to a safer alternative. There are special GPS devices and trip planning tools that allow you to program in your RV’s size and height so you can ensure that your route will be safe for you to navigate!

Neglecting RV maintenance

You should expect to have regular upkeep and maintenance expenses that come along with RV ownership. If you remember simple maintenance tasks such as checking tire pressure before driving, you can prevent larger, more costly issues from occurring and leaving your RV out of commission for days, weeks, or even months at a time.

Forgetting to secure your belongings when driving down the road

You will eventually develop a routine for this reality, but it is worth mentioning. Make sure that you place all loose items into drawers, bags, closets, or other secure locations since things tend to shift and move around during travel. This includes all of your toiletries and refrigerated items as well.

Start RVing without an FMCA membership

This is the biggest mistake any RVer can make: hitting the road without an FMCA membership! A membership to FMCA can save you hundreds of dollars on RV necessities like batteries, tires, and windshield replacement while connecting you to a plethora of educational resources to ensure your RV experience is easy and smooth. Click here

RV Buying Guide

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 01 Sep 2020 13:53:00 +0000

If you are considering purchasing an RV, especially for the first time, it’s important that you research the RV buying process so you can make informed RV buying decisions. To help with this, RVTrader.com has put together some helpful buying resources.

RV Trader is a great RV buying resource. Whether you are buying or selling an RV, you will find RV tips, articles, and other useful resources. They also have a huge inventory of new and used RVs to choose from.

In addition to all of these resources, RV Trader offers a free RV Buyer’s Guide that is available to download on any device. In this guide you will learn all about the RV buying process and the steps you will need to take to buy your new RV. Taking some time to review this material will help immensely when it’s time to purchase your new RV.

5 Tips for Roadschooling

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 01 Sep 2020 12:39:00 +0000

What to Know Before Selecting a Class C Motorhome

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Thu, 13 Aug 2020 13:24:00 +0000

Traveling in an RV is an experience like no other. The ability to have your personal belongings and customizable personal space with you throughout your travels is very convenient and comfortable. It is also much more cost-effective than purchasing airfare and staying in hotels. But with all the different types of RVs, it can be difficult to choose the kind that’s best for you. After all, the individual needs of the traveler are one of the most important factors when selecting a class of RV.

If you are considering purchasing a new RV or switching to a different type, then you have come to the right place. We’ll be covering the features and pros and cons of Class C motorhomes. Continue reading to learn everything you need to know about them before purchasing one of your own.

Photo credit: pinterest.com

What is a Class C motorhome?

A Class C motorhome is almost like a combination of a Class A and Class B, or rather a compromise between the two. Class Cs are built on a truck or van chassis that is built specifically for a motorhome. They are usually designed to have an overhang over the cab that is typically an extra bed or additional storage. This class of motorhome is revered for having the most sleeping space. Some of the newer, larger models can sleep up to 11 people.

These RVs usually run between twenty-one and thirty-five feet, making them a more compact solution than a Class A, but slightly bigger than a Class B. Due to their smaller size, they are fairly easy to navigate and park - some only take up a bit more than a parking space.

More recently, manufacturers have increased the size and capabilities of these RVs by designing the Super-C. This RV is built on a Ford F550 or Freightliner chassis. The front of Super-Cs sometimes look like a semi-truck and other types retain the overhang cab. Super-Cs are heavy duty and the largest of this class.

Photo credit: renegaderv.com

Features

Class C motorhomes retain great gas mileage, especially the diesel varieties. These motorhomes sometimes have the ability to tow around 5,000 pounds, depending on the model, and Super-Cs can tow up to 35,000 pounds.

Floor plans in these vary greatly, depending on the length and type of Class C. Generally, the newer models include up to four slide outs for additional space. Many Class Cs share similar features, such as a kitchen with a stove and cooktop, up to two bathrooms, and a dining area.

One of the biggest drawbacks of Class Cs is the lack of outdoor storage space. Class Cs are usually lacking in the number and size of outdoor storage bays, which makes packing large items such as chairs and coolers a challenge.

Traveling and set up

Driving a Class C is similar to driving a long van. They are not as high off the ground as Class As, which can ease the fears of some drivers. Class Cs are similar to Class As in their necessary campsite setup, although some Class Cs can back into parking spaces significantly easier than Class As can, due to their shorter length and height. Leveling a Class C is very important, but most do not come equipped with automatic leveling kits. The most efficient way to level these RVs is to use leveling blocks and a bubble leveler.

Photo credit: rvweb.net

Long term

A self-contained RV is both a pro and a con. The pro is that, while driving down the road, travelers have everything they need in the comfort of their own home on wheels. However, with motorhomes, you can expect much more maintenance. If you are towing another vehicle, you can then expect to maintain two engines. In addition, repairs to self-contained RVs are almost always significantly more expensive, and RV mechanics are less prevalent than regular garages.

Depending on the size of the Class C you choose, a towed vehicle may be helpful for navigating tighter roads when your RV is stationary. When deciding whether or not to tow, there are many factors to consider, and many of those can add to the upfront costs of purchasing an RV.
Other considerations

Storing a Class C during the off-season is more expensive than storing a regular vehicle. The height and length of the RV impacts where you will be able to store it, and a specialty RV storage facility is likely your best option.

Class C RVs have most of the features of their big sister, the Class A, and can rival them in size. As we mentioned previously, the biggest drawback to these is their lack of outdoor storage. Owning a Class C is not for everyone, but if a Class C is your dream RV and fits your traveling needs, take a look at the new and used Class C RVs for sale on RV Trader.

Photo credit: rvt.com

Do you own a Class C or would ever consider owning one? Is the C or Super C more appealing? Let us know in the comments below!

FMCA Tech Tip: Overlooked Maintenance

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Thu, 13 Aug 2020 13:11:00 +0000

Missed RV upkeep and repair items can become costly if you do not catch them in time.

You have made a major investment in an RV. You take great pride in keeping it clean, waxed, and properly maintained. Have you completely read, understood, and followed the information and instructions in all of the manuals for your unit? Some coaches come with encyclopedia-size booklets, others with just a thin pamphlet. Either way, numerous items require regular attention, some of which you may never have heard of or thought about. I hope that this article will encourage you to look into them.

Some RVers cite cost as a reason they haven't precisely followed recommendations in the manuals. However, many businesses have found it is cheaper and safer to implement a planned preventive maintenance (PM) schedule for their equipment. Even if they trade or sell their equipment often, they know that an attached PM report increases the items' resale value.

Imagine you are out looking at two nearly identical RVs with the same mileage. One comes with documented PM records and costs more than the one without. Which one would you purchase? If you stop to think about it, the one without records may end up costing you more during its life. First, you have to spend money to bring it up to specs before any trips. Second, items that have not been maintained properly will wear out faster than normal, use more energy, and could be dangerous.

More often than not, overlooked maintenance items are the leading contributor to the need for emergency road repairs. You can save time, money, frustration, and maybe your marriage just by following your manuals' recommendations. Many RVs out there receive little or no care; is yours one of them? When they do break down, it may be just a tip of the iceberg of problems to come.

An old saying from the horse and buggy days applies to the RV lifestyle: "Rode hard and put away wet." This means subjecting something to extremely hard use and then doing nothing to care for it when finished. Our RVs can sit for several months unused, and then they are off to the races for a weekend getaway or a coast-to-coast run. After reaching the destination, we shut them down and ignore them until the next expedition. Because of a RV's weight and aerodynamics, the motor, transmission, cooling system, and brakes could be considered as operating in a severe-duty service whenever used. This makes preventive maintenance more important than ever, so follow the manuals' suggestions.

Below is a list of items that are easy to overlook. It is a little long; however, these items deserve attention before they require an expensive solution. Most manufacturers recommend them as yearly checks. Please reference your manuals, the company's website, or its service department for specific recommendations regarding your RV and its components and accessories.

Frame/Driveline

Batteries: Far and away, the most common battery repairs technicians make are to resolve loose connections, especially on the ground/negative side and wires. Check all terminals and frame grounds for corrosion and tightness. Wash down battery areas with a water-and-baking soda solution or an approved cleaner. Check electrolyte levels; fill with distilled water if needed, usually just enough to cover the plates.
Brakes’ hydraulic systems - Use test strips to check the fluid level and its moisture content. Periodic flushing is required to maintain your safety, approximately every three years or 25,000 miles, whichever comes first. Fluid does break down and can attract moisture over time from the heat generated by braking. A noticeable change in efficiency and required pedal force will occur. More importantly, the calipers and the ABS systems' control module could be damaged, causing a very expensive repair.
Air systems: Drain ping/storage tanks completely every month to remove moisture. Some units have a replaceable desiccant filter that is easy to overlook but is extremely vital to brakes and suspension.
Pads, calipers, rotors, or drums: Check for usable life left, cracking, or glaze and make sure they all operate properly.
Brake lines: Check for severe rust on metal lines. Watch out for cracks or weeping on flexible lines.
Grease/Lubrication: Climb underneath your coach and count every zerk fitting you can find. Look at all suspension components; steering linkage, including the connection to the steering wheel; driveshaft; universal joints; transmission; clutch shafts; and tag axle. Keep this number (I have counted as many as 43) in your notes with the owners manuals. After a lube, oil, and filter service is performed, ask how many grease zerks they serviced. If it does not match your number, ask why. Then check one that is hard to find for proof of new grease! You would be amazed at how many dry ones I encounter. Some motors have grease zerks on the cooling fan assembly. Do not forget about sliders, rollers, or bearings on racks (generator, cargo, steps, propane tanks, batteries, etc.).
Hydraulic Slideouts And Leveling: Fill the oil level with the proper type oil and look for leaks.
Rear End/Differential: Refer to the coach's chassis maintenance schedule; however, if a schedule is not available, change the fluid every 100,000 miles. Check the vent tube for blockage. Check the universal joints when greasing and replace if any looseness is detected.
Steering: Check fluid; change when suggested (usually three to five years).
Suspension: Springs, control arms, and sway bars all have bushings that can wear out. Shocks that have oil stains on them or more than 50,000 miles need to be replaced.
Tag Axle: Check wheel bearings for adjustment and lubrication.
Tires: Look for dry rot, bulges, cracking, and correct pressure. Stay away from tire dressings that make them shiny, as they tend to have silicone or petroleum-based ingredients that can accelerate tire deterioration. It's probably best to simply wash the tires with soap and water, and rinse them thoroughly afterward.
Transmission: Check the fluid and filter; refer to the coach's chassis maintenance schedule. If a schedule is not available, change at 50,000 to 100,000 miles.

Electrical

Generator: Wash with a cleaner such as Mean Green and low-pressure water; air dry before using. Change air and fuel filters; some models have filters or screens on cooling air/compartment inlets. Gasoline types should be run once every five to six weeks under medium load, have their fuel system drained, or have Sta-Bil added to the fuel (make sure it's in the carburetor before shutting down the gen set). Run diesel generators at least every two to three months. Warm them up, operate under a load for 10 to 15 minutes, and cool down for another three to five minutes before shutting off. This keeps the fuel fresh, lubricates the parts, and keeps the generator ready for emergencies.
Lights: Check all interior and exterior lights on all vehicles (towable included).
Shore Power Cord: Clean and wipe down with silicone spray or a product such as 303 Aerospace Protectant (do not use anything slick on coaches equipped with a cord reel).

Engine And Compartment

Lube, Oil, And Filter: This should be a no-brainer, so remember the time intervals also; oil is your engine's lifeblood. Follow change intervals to a tee. Stay with quality name-brand oil and filters, especially on diesel engines when new. Many diesel motors require break-in valve and injector adjustments. According to Caterpillar, Cummins, and Detroit Diesel, this first adjustment is very critical.
Air Conditioner: Check pressure and operation of the dash air conditioner before the season.
Hoses: Look for rub marks, bulges, cracks, or weeping. Secure hose clamps.
Serpentine/Fan Belts: Check for cracking or frayed cords. They should be changed every five to eight years/50,000 to 125,000 miles.
Engine Cooling/Radiators - Antifreeze: Fill and have the pH level checked. Change every three to five years/65,000 to 100,000 miles. Use only the antifreeze approved for your engine; there are differences. Diesel owners: It is vital to check the pH level and appropriate buffers.
Fins/fan: Carefully check, clean, and straighten cooling fins. If the fan's blades are bent or damaged, replace the fan with a new one.
Filters: They are installed in places you never thought of: air, fuel, water separator, cabin, antifreeze, radiator pre-filters/screens, air compressor, crankcase.

Exterior

Air Conditioner: Remove the cover of the roof air conditioner; check for mud dauber nests; clean the fins and fans of leaves, sticks, moss, and nests. You will save energy and help the unit last longer.
Seams: Check all seams for faulty caulk, especially the roof around antenna mounts, skylights, ladder, and vents.
Furnace: Remove the cover and clean. Replace filters if applicable (e.g., Aqua-Hot). Look out for mice and their nests.
Horns: Do they work?
Refrigerator Covers: Remove the outer cover and vacuum clean. Check for spiders, as they love this area. Find the black drain tube, check for obstructions, and route to drain outside of the cover.
Roof Maintenance: Clean, look for, and repair defects. Apply proper protection.
Slideout Seals: Clean and lubricate every six to 12 months.
Storage And Entrance Doors: Clean and lubricate seals, lifting mechanism, latches, and hinges.
Water Heater: Remove the bottom plug and drain the heater. Replace the anode rod. Clean the propane-heating tube. Remove the plug-in 12-volt connector and reconnect (cleans contacts).
Windshield Wipers: Check and replace. Better to do this now before you're caught in a big rainstorm. Refill the washer fluid reservoir.

Interior

Air Conditioner: Clean or replace filters monthly. Carefully clean/vacuum cooling fins.
Detectors: Change batteries in smoke, carbon monoxide, and LP-gas detectors.
Furnace: Remove the covers and vacuum the area clean.
Water Systems: Check the under-counter and ice-maker filters and replace if necessary.
Windshield: Clean the inside as well as the outside. Remember how hard it was to see through when driving into the sun on your last trip?

Even though this list may appear overwhelming, the items are not all due at once. Mileage, hours, and/or age will dictate when attention is required throughout the year and life cycle of your RV.

Consult this checklist when searching for a used RV. Finding one with documented PM schedules included generally indicates the entire rig was properly maintained. If you purchase one with a questionable service record, either you'll become handy at repairs or spend a lot of money for someone who is.

If purchasing an older RV with low mileage, or if you let yours sit unused for extended periods, think about this: mechanical items are designed for use on a regular basis. Using them as they were intended to be used generally makes them last longer, with fewer problems, than those you don't use regularly.

Think about our own bodies. When we exercise regularly, we feel better, move around easier, are more alert, and are less prone to injuries and arthritis. Usually we spend less on health care as a result. If we stop exercising, we gain weight, slow down, and acquire more aches and pains; medical expenses and time spent at the doctor rises dramatically. The same thing happens with your RV. This can become a vicious cycle.

Stop exercising your RV and the seals in the motor, rear, and steering dry out and shrink because oil drains off them. Oil drains off motor parts, causing rust and stuck valves. Additives in the oil break down even with age, allowing suspended acids and damaging particles to settle on critical parts. Tires will dry rot and crack, because they depend upon movement to excrete protective agents to block this. Transmission internals can rust and clutch packs go dry. Brakes can rust or seize up, lock up a wheel, or generate enough heat from dragging to burn out a wheel bearing. Brake, fuel, and air lines can rust through from condensation in the storage area. Critters and insects love to make nests in stationary RVs.

You've probably heard some RVers say, "Hey, I start mine and let it idle once a month." Just starting the motor and letting it idle can do more damage than good, but that's for another time and article.

How to Boondock: Part I

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Thu, 16 Jul 2020 14:17:00 +0000

For many RVers, boondocking is an enjoyable way to camp. Boondocking refers to free camping without the use of hookups and can be done in a wide variety of places, including public lands, parking lots, membership club locations, casinos, rest stops, and more. This style of camping is often more scenic, more private, more affordable, and, for some, more fun.

However, those who are accustomed to camping with hookups to water, electric, and sewer may be unsure of how to dry camp. If you want to try boondocking but feel overwhelmed by the idea of dry camping, then you have come to the right place. Here, we have highlighted all the tried-and-true methods of camping without hookups, as well as, all the applicable tools that can make your experience smoother.

Water

In most campgrounds, RVers can expect to be connected to water hookups at all times. This means that water is continuously flowing into your RV and the user essentially has unlimited access to water when connected. When boondocking wherever your RV takes you, you forfeit access to continuous fresh water. You will have to exclusively live off of the potable water in your freshwater holding tank.

• Start by determining the size of your RV’s freshwater holding tank. The average American household uses 300 gallons of water daily, so learning to live off of a small holding tank is not always easy. In bigger rigs, the tank size is typically between sixty and ninety gallons, although some rigs are made with tanks up to 150 gallons in size. This information can typically be found in your owner’s manual or sometimes even near the fill-up port.

• After determining your tank size, the easiest thing to do is practice limiting water consumption. Start by using a trickle of water for washing your hands and brushing your teeth, and turn the faucet off in between lathering and rinsing. Do the same for dishwashing, and turn the water off in between use while showering. This will stretch your water-saving capabilities. Start small with shorter trips of two or three days, and work your way up to longer stints. The most experienced boondockers can often last up to fourteen days!

• The final hurdle for water usage while boondocking is filling your tank. If you are traveling from your home to your boondocking site, you can likely fill your tank before leaving your house. If you are traveling from a campground to a boondocking site, you can also fill before setting off. However, if you are traveling from one boondocking location to another, or simply do not want to travel with the weight of a full water tank, you will need to know where you can safely fill your tank. Keep in mind that you should only ever fill your freshwater holding tank with potable water. Even if you do not drink water from the faucets, you will still be using it to brush your teeth, wash your dishes, and in some cases, provide water for your pets.

Knowing where to fill up your tank is key. Many gas stations and travel centers have areas for tank filling. Some may charge a small fee, but most are free. If you cannot find a travel center at which to fill up, you can often find stations at national park and state park campgrounds. Even if you are just passing through, many of these locations will allow you to fill with park entrance or for a nominal fee. If none of these options are panning out, you can almost always call a local campground to fill your tank. These will almost always charge a small fee, but it will still be less than a night’s stay and will save you money for whatever length of time you plan to boondock. Freshwater is one of the biggest challenges while boondocking, so once you have mastered this, you will be a pro.

Power

The next biggest boondocking hurdle is supplying your own power. At a campground, your RV connects to shore power, which allows you to power your entire RV, charge devices, watch TV, run your air conditioners, etc. Without shore power access, you will need to learn to generate your own power. There are also a number of upgrades you can add to make boondocking much easier.

No matter what kind of set-up you choose to power your RV while boondocking, you will need to keep in mind the importance of energy conservation. None of these options will grant you an unlimited power supply, and keeping your usage low will be important. You will likely be unable to run air conditioners or high-energy kitchen appliances, but the right set-up will likely allow you to charge electrical devices, such phones and laptops, run your water pump for water usage, and turn on lights in the evening. Consider switching your lightbulbs to low-energy bulbs or installing additional DC lights for more lighting while off grid. Once you have come up with a plan for saving energy, it is time to decide which power option is best for you.

Start by assessing your current house batteries. These are the batteries that store energy to power the RV “house” (anything non-mechanical) when you are not plugged in. Some RVs come equipped with decent batteries that can store a lot of energy, but many RVs have only simple or weak batteries. If you plan to do plenty of boondocking, you may consider upgrading your batteries to gel, lead acid, or even lithium.

Once you know what type of batteries you are working with, you will want to determine how long these batteries can power your rig when not connected to power. This establishes how long you can go between charging the batteries. Some folks only boondock for one or two days at a time. If your batteries can hold their charge for a couple of days, and you only plan to boondock in short bursts, you may not need an additional source of power to charge your batteries.

If you plan to boondock frequently or for longer periods of time, you need to select a method for charging your house batteries when they are low. The two most common charging sources RVers use are a generator or solar power. Many motorhomes, especially class As, come equipped with an on-board generator, making boondocking quite simple right off the bat. However, in the case of many towables and smaller motorhomes, your RV may not come with a generator installed. Luckily, purchasing one and setting it up is fairly simple. There are many generators on the market, each with different abilities and specs. Most run on gasoline, and ones that are already installed in a motorhome are fed directly from the fuel that powers your RV. Be sure to do proper research before selecting one and setting it up to power your rig. Keep in mind that running the generator will charge your batteries and all the electrical sockets, but unless you have an inverter, only DC powered devices (such as lights) can be used when the generator is not running. It’s also important to remember that generators require regular maintenance, such as oil changes and spark plug replacements.

A generator is not the only option for charging your house batteries. A full solar panel set-up can also do the job. While solar may require a pricey up-front cost, it is a great long-term investment for those who plan to boondock and dry camp often. Solar kits can be purchased through a variety of online retailers, and these all come with different components and wattages. It's important to do plenty of research to not only determine the correct wattage for your need, but to also ensure you're getting the best quality items at a fair price. In addition, have your solar system installed by a professional to ensure everything is set up correctly.

Sewer

Image: Camping Report

The final consideration for hookups (or lack thereof) while boondocking is your sewer system. Your sewer system consists of both your black and gray holding tanks. The black tank holds waste exclusively from your toilet. The gray tank holds waste water, which includes water from washing dishes, showers, washing your hands, brushing your teeth, etc. At full hookup campgrounds, campers typically run a hose to their sewer to empty their tanks as needed. When boondocking, this option for emptying tanks is not available. It is never okay to dump your waste tanks anywhere other than an official dumping station. For this reason, you will need to adhere to some tips and guidelines while boondocking.

First, you will need to determine the size of your gray and black tanks. Your gray tank will likely be a bit smaller than your freshwater tank, and your black tank will be smaller than both of them. Any tips for conserving freshwater usage can also be applied to saving gray water tank space. Water that is not used equates to additional space in your gray tank.

There really isn’t a method for conserving black tank space, and the amount of time it takes you to fill the black tank depends on how many people you are traveling with. Practicing boondocking will allow you to gain an idea of how long it takes you to fill your black tank, giving you insight into generally how long you can remain unplugged. You can also keep an eye on the levels of your tanks using the tank meter. It is often found in the control center and lets you know how full your tanks are at any given time. Once your black tank is full, you should not continue to use it, as this could lead to waste water backing up into your sinks and shower if it has nowhere else to go.

Finally, as mentioned, you will need to determine where to empty your tanks after boondocking. If you are headed to a campground, you can easily empty your tanks there. However, if you are headed home or towards another boondocking location, you will need to dump your tanks before you arrive. Just like with water refilling stations, there are many travel centers and gas stations that have dump stations for RVers. There is almost always a small charge to use these, and you must come equipped with your own sewer hose. If you cannot find a travel center with a dump station, you can use one at a private, state park, or national park campground. Be sure to call ahead and double-check they will allow you to use their dump station, and plan to pay a small fee for the service. If you are still having trouble finding a dump station, consider using the Sanidumps app. It allows users to locate dump stations in their general vicinity or along a specific route.

Boondocking is an excellent way to camp in your RV, and knowing how to dry camp is key for anyone wanting to boondock. Follow these basic tips if you plan to forgo hookups. Stay tuned for our next boondocking guide, which will teach you how to obtain internet, dispose of trash, and do laundry when you are not at a campground.

Do you enjoy boondocking? How do you handle water, sewer, and electricity when you are off grid? Feel free to share in the comments below!

FMCA Tech Tip: RV Buying Tips

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Thu, 16 Jul 2020 14:08:00 +0000

Buying an RV typically is not always a simple, stress-free experience. After all, it requires a substantial outlay of discretionary funds. During the buying process it’s not uncommon for prospective first-time buyers to seek advice from their family, friends, or even FMCA (Family Motor Coach Association) members. More seasoned RV owners also may want information about how to make the process go more smoothly, and our friends at FMCA are here to help these buyers, too.

They are providing us with a thought-provoking, logical pathway to the ultimate joy of owning and traveling in an RV. Check out their tips below.

Budget

The first thing to consider: How much can you afford?

Most established dealers can assist with this, but three major items must be addressed.
Down payment. If there is no trade-in vehicle, you’ll have to determine how much cash is needed for a down payment. Even if you have a vehicle to trade, it’s likely some cash outlay will be necessary.
Monthly operating expenses. Factor in the monthly payment (if you are financing), as well as, the cost of insurance, fuel, outfitting, storage requirements, etc. Preventive maintenance. This is the cost of maintaining the RV’s major systems in order to enjoy trouble-free travel.

It’s also a good idea to establish an “RV maintenance savings plan” where you are regularly depositing money into a dedicated savings account. Every month, try to deposit the cost of at least one retail labor hour at a local RV service facility. Over the course of a year, that will buy at least 12 of the 20 to 24 annual shop hours that typically are required to keep a motorhome or RV on the road.

Family Needs

Obviously, a family of five needs more sleeping accommodations than a traveling retired couple. In addition to sleeping arrangements, consider how much storage space is required for the family’s camping gear and each individual’s hobby interests. For example, a family member who is a gourmet chef will need a fancier galley than someone who doesn’t cook. Carefully determine the family requirements beyond the aesthetic features you might have in mind.

Type Of RV

After reconciling the budget and family needs, next consider the type of RV you'd like to have. RV categories include Type A, Type C, or Type B motorhomes, Fifth Wheels, and Travel Trailers. If you are bringing some equipment like ATVs or golf carts along, Toy Haulers is another available option. A good place to start researching the types of RVs is on RV Trader.

Another consideration: If driving/towing duties will be shared, will everyone be comfortable behind the wheel? Regardless of the type of RV chosen, new buyers will require some type of RV driving instruction.

Code Requirements

Be sure the RV under scrutiny is built to code, specifically to National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) 1192, which applies to recreation vehicles. Recreation Vehicle Industry Association (RVIA) has adopted NFPA 1192. All motorhome manufacturers that are members of RVIA build to that standard.

This code has nothing to do with the quality of workmanship; rather, it governs the general fire and life safety requirements for the RV’s fuel systems, including the propane system, the plumbing systems, as well as the interior finish, the textile materials, the means of escape, fire detection equipment, and chassis requirements. For more information about NFPA 1192, click here.

Construction Variances

Look closely at how an RV is constructed. Techniques vary; all have their pros and cons. Material costs, build times, weight specifications, etc., all factor into the differences. Be sure the construction method is compatible with how the RV will be used. For example, if you will use it for winter skiing excursions, the R-factor of the insulation used is important to know and compare. How thick are the walls, floor, and roof? How secure is the weatherproofing? Are the storage bays heated?

Floor Plan Compatibility

The floor plan featured above is a Keystone Alpine 3700FL Fifth Wheel.

A suitable floor plan involves more than a seat-belted traveling position for motorized RVs and a sleeping berth for each person. Ask yourself: Is everything exactly where I’d like it to be? Ensure that the floor plan truly works for you, the family, and the activities you have in mind. Do occupants have access to the bathroom with all the slideouts retracted? Is that an important consideration? Can the refrigerator be opened while in travel mode, or is it blocked by a closed slideout? Does it even matter? Is there enough wardrobe space?

Don’t just “settle” on an RV purchase because that’s all the dealer had in stock. It’s amazing how many different, ingeniously designed floor plans exist at every length of each type of RV. Be sure the one you choose has the floor plan that works for you, not against you.

Size/Weight/Length

In most cases, as the floor plan requirements grow, so does the length of the RV, too. It’s helpful to keep in mind that RV’s can range up to 45 feet long, and the overall length stretches beyond that if you tow a car or truck. Some campgrounds, RV storage facilities, repair shops, and even some roads and local municipalities limit the overall length of the motoring configuration. Be sure you will not be limited by weight or length in the areas in which you plan to travel.

Overall height is also important. The Internet teems with videos of RVers proving they did not know (or forgot) just how tall their RV was. If this is overlooked, low overpasses, railway bridges, gas station canopies, and drive-throughs of all types can be hazardous to the components on an RV’s roof.

And don’t forget possible width restrictions. RVs with deep, opposing slideouts may be limited in some of the tighter spaces in older campgrounds. This is not always a dealbreaker, but it is something to consider if you will spend significant time in confined locations.

Brand Integrity

It’s always nice to get opinions from owners of the particular brand and model you are considering. Many FMCA chapters are focused on one manufacturer or brand; members typically enjoy sharing their wisdom with others. Also, many brands have official owners groups or clubs. Opinions are freely expressed on their online forums. But, remember, just because someone dislikes a particular brand does not mean all owners share that opinion.

Your research also should include a visit to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration website. Search for recalls regarding a particular brand, especially when buying a preowned RV.

Keep in mind that a manufacturer or brand should not be condemned just because a recall was issued. “Many recalls have been attributed to inaccurate labels, rather than to mechanical safety defects,” said Walter Cannon, executive director of the RV Safety & Education Foundation (RVSEF), the leading voice of safety advocacy for the RV industry. But it is important that the manufacturer or selling dealer address all actionable items outlined in a recall.

Check, too, whether an RV manufacturer posts online documentation for the brand and model you are contemplating. Online owners manuals, service literature, tech bulletins, and brochures will offer some insight into specific models. Does the manufacturer have an e-newsletter you can subscribe to? It’s not so much for pre-purchase research, but once you own the coach, regular manufacturer communications are a good indication of how the company views its customers.

Another consideration, although not a deal maker or breaker on its own: Does an RV retain some value when it’s time to trade up or down?

Availability

The next step is to find the particular RV you’ve selected with the floor plan you want. If your local dealer carries the brand, but the specific floor plan and model you want is out of stock, no doubt it can be ordered. Establish a good relationship with your local dealer and purchase from there, even if the coach is available immediately from a distant dealer you found online. So, why turn away from a good deal you found online at a dealer that is a few states away? Read on.

Buy Local

If, in your quest to save a few bucks, you bought from a faraway dealership, it may be challenging to get in for service in a timely manner. And, remember, this extends beyond the warranty period. Even retail repairs and regular maintenance appointments may be granted to existing customers first. RV owners who purchased from a dealer will generally have priority over owners who bought a coach elsewhere. It’s true even if those owners live in the same town.

Dealer Reputation

Having a good relationship with a local dealer does not eliminate the need to properly evaluate the dealer beforehand.

Do your research and get to know the dealership and sales staff. A good salesperson can be instrumental in ensuring you end up with the right RV and also can become a helpful ally after the sale. Avoid the high pressure of buying immediately. Even after you have settled all the issues, decided on a particular RV, and are ready to pull the trigger, sleep on it one more night.

Get to know the service staff, too. Do they employ certified or master-certified technicians in the shop? Many FMCA RV owners perform much of their own preventive maintenance. Still, for a variety of reasons, many tasks must be performed by professionals. Quality dealerships will invest in technician education and certification. Look for the certified technician patch on the work uniform.

Getting to know a local dealership may also provide a glimpse of how important customer service is to that organization. The better dealerships look beyond the initial sale and become your personal advocate for future purchases and ongoing technical support.

RV Shows

Don’t overlook the value that can be found at events such as FMCA International Conventions. Many dealers offer “show specials” whereby attendees can find great deals on the display RVs. RV shows, rallies, conventions, and other gatherings happen somewhere just about every weekend. At smaller shows, some dealers may even sell pre owned vehicles. Pre-delivery inspection of those coaches usually has been completed, and they are ready to go. Look for last-day markdowns. Shows sometimes have manufacturers’ representatives on hand and that’s a good time to ask more in-depth questions.

Consumer Education

Before deciding on a purchase, prospective owners also can gain a huge advantage over less-informed, impulse buyers by attending seminars such as the RV Basics workshop offered by FMCA Academy. More than 100 people at each event invest in their RV futures at FMCA International Conventions. Those who have not yet purchased their first RV gain tremendous insight and guidance, thereby reducing the risk of an unhappy buying experience.

Take your time. Never make a snap buying decision. Do the homework. And most importantly, have some fun doing it. The journey to RV ownership can be enjoyed almost as much as the trips you’ll take in that new purchase. Remember, RVing is more than a hobby; it’s a lifestyle!

Comparison Shopping

All RVs are not created equal. The quality of components varies within each RV type, as well as, among manufacturers and brands. Likewise, differences exist in the quality of design and construction. That’s not necessarily a negative, since it results in a range of price points and allows many people to get into RVing at some level.

RVs that appear similar may fall within the same price range. Comparing those RVs from a technical point of view, rather than simply on aesthetics, can reveal discrepancies that perhaps can lead to better buying decisions. Examples of such technical comparisons follow.

Access To Components

When buying an RV, consider the ease of access to parts and pieces that require periodic inspection and maintenance. For instance, is it necessary to partially disassemble the coach to find and reach the fresh-water filter/strainer attached to the water pump? That strainer needs simple, periodic maintenance. When winterizing, is it difficult to reach the low-point drain valves or the water heater bypass valves?

Must you be a flexible gymnast to contort yourself into position to get to the circuit breaker panel board? And how easy is it to replace a fuse in the 12-volt-DC battery system? Can you even find the fuse block?

The National Electrical Code (NEC) requires a certain number of receptacles on particular circuits. Are the receptacles located where you need them in the motorhome?

Design Pitfalls

As you compare RVs, look at the physical separation between propane appliances. In some cases, installing a forced-air furnace directly below an absorption refrigerator is not as good as having lateral separation between those two appliances. The same can be said when a gas water heater is installed directly below the fridge.

Here’s why: For an absorption refrigerator to cool properly, a draft of cool air is drawn in from its lower exterior vent and then passes up through the rear of the cooling unit and exits out the roof vent or a separate, upper side vent. It is vital to keep the back of the refrigerator as cool as possible so that the convection airflow properly evacuates the heat generated by the refrigerator’s energy source and heat transferred from the food inside. A high heat-producing appliance installed directly below the point where the refrigerator draws in this cool air minimizes its effectiveness and can lead to operational problems.

Cargo Weight Limitations

The RV occupant and cargo carrying capacity (OCCC) listed on the required weight label shows the maximum number of pounds (or kilograms) the RV can carry, regardless of how much space is available.

For more information about RV weights, including the federal weight label (and the older RVIA labels), visit the RVSEF website.

Remember, All RVs are not created technically equal. So when buying an RV, look beyond the nice furnishings, storage space, and window treatments to see how well thought out the floor plan really is. And do not despair; the perfect RV for you and your family is out there. Enjoy the journey; enjoy the destination!

Tips and Tricks for Traveling with Pets

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Wed, 15 Jul 2020 13:22:00 +0000

It’s time to gear up for another adventure, and if you’re anything like us, you couldn’t bear the thought of traveling without your furry friends! Pets have the amazing ability to bring us the comfort of home on the road, but before you load up the whole gang (including Spike) - check out these tips for making your upcoming trip fun, stress-free, and most importantly, safe for your four-legged companions.

Vintage Trailer & RV Restoration Hazards

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Fri, 19 Jun 2020 14:49:00 +0000

Traveling in an RV or with a travel trailer can be a great experience. It’s a great way to cover a lot of ground and have a comfortable place to stay after hiking, getting out on the lake, or just enjoying the serenity of your campsite.

Brand new RVs and travel trailers can cost a fortune, and can depreciate quickly. This is why many travel and camping enthusiasts are instead restoring old RVs and camper trailers to enjoy their ventures. Not only do vintage RVs and travel trailers often cost a fraction of the price, they’re also packed with charm and style. In addition, restoring old campers is an excellent way to customize it with an interior of your choice. Before you get started on your restoration, though, there are some hazards to consider.

Tires, Bearings, Brakes, and Driveline

When buying an older RV or camper trailer you should always bring someone along who can inspect the mechanical components. For RVs, this is especially important since you’re buying a vehicle, not just a camper. You should always inspect the frame, tires, axles, and bearings. It's pertinent to make sure the tires and bearings are in good shape before moving the trailer or RV very far.

Tires & Bearings

If grease seals have failed, bearings can overheat in a matter of minutes, causing your tires to stop rotating. This shouldn’t need an explanation, but once a tire wears unevenly they must be changed. Driving on a worn tire could lead to a blowout. If they’ve sat in the same place for an extended period of time, tires can easily succumb to dry rot creating unsafe driving conditions that could be catastrophic at highway speeds.

Brakes & Driveline

The brakes and driveline should be inspected prior to purchase. For RVs, U-joints should be inspected and replaced if any play is found. U-joint failure can compromise the driveshaft and leave you stranded. If brakes are worn or not in working order, a heavy RV can be very dangerous to drive. Travel trailers weighing more than 3500 lbs are often equipped with drum brakes that should be inspected as well. Brake pads and linings were often made with asbestos, and precautions should be taken if you plan to perform the work yourself. Transmission gaskets and clutch plates were made with asbestos as well. If your RV requires a new clutch or brakes, it may be best to leave it to a professional if the RV or trailer was made before the 1980s.

Many automotive parts and building materials utilized asbestos before the partial ban in 1987 because it was inexpensive, heat resistant, and strong. When airborne, asbestos containing dust can become trapped in the linings of the lungs, causing pleural mesothelioma. Too often, the presence of asbestos in older vehicles is overlooked before undergoing a restoration process. Exposure to asbestos should not be taken lightly as a staggering 12,000-15,000 people die from asbestos-related diseases each year in the United States.

Interior Restoration

The interior restoration of vintage travel trailers and RVs is the most exciting part of bringing an old camper back to life. Redoing the interior allows you to customize the space any way you’d like and it also gives you the opportunity to check for water damage and leaks as well as install better insulation. This is also a good time to inspect the electrical system and components, propane hoses, and plumbing. Ensuring these items are in usable condition and updating insulation for a higher R-value will make your camping experience more comfortable and enjoyable.

The Demolition

Before tearing out the old interior of your vintage RV or camper trailer, you should be aware that some of these parts could contain asbestos. Commonly used in vinyl tile and adhesives to add strength, these items should be removed with caution. If possible, you can leave vinyl tile in place and go over top of the material with your new flooring or backsplash. However, on some campers, the subfloor itself may need to be replaced or you may want to redo the insulation underneath.

If you do remove the vinyl tile and its adhesive, you should wear a respirator that fits well, a dust mask from the hardware store won’t protect you against exposure. You should also wear a Tyvek suit or clothing that can be hosed down or discarded with the tiling. Remove the clothing immediately after leaving the demo area. Don’t go inside before thoroughly washing your hands and showering. There are many resources available on how to safely remove asbestos, but if you don’t have the capabilities to do so, you may want to hire a professional for the demolition.

Old insulation could also pose a threat, as loose-fill insulation of times past often contained asbestos. Most of the time, however, travel trailers and RVs used a batt style insulation instead of loose-fill. You should still proceed cautiously and inspect the insulation for asbestos contamination. If you’re not sure how to identify asbestos, there are many abatement professionals that will test materials that have the potential of containing asbestos.

Inspecting Old Components

Now that you’ve demoed the walls, floor, and safely removed old insulation, it’s imperative that you inspect all electrical lines, gas hoses, and plumbing. If you’re not familiar with what these components should look like, this is another opportunity to hire a professional. Many DIY’s don’t want to pay the professional price, but doing so for electrical, plumbing, and gas can save you countless hours, and eliminate the potential for serious failures down the road.

If propane or plumbing lines have become dry rotted or have been tampered with by animals while sitting, a tiny leak could become disastrous. Damaged plumbing lines could ruin all the hard work you put into redoing the interior, especially if that leak is in a line for grey or black water. All plumbing hoses and holding tanks should be thoroughly inspected and replaced if damaged. Often, a do-it-yourselfer can undertake minor plumbing. Propane repairs, however, should be performed by a professional, as a propane leak can lead to a buildup of gas in your camper. Not only can propane cause serious harm to the body if inhaled, it can also lead to an explosion. A propane leak detector should be installed as low as possible, as propane is heavier than air.

Electrical wiring and components should also be inspected. Electrical faults are one of the main causes of fires in camper trailers and RVs. Electrical wiring can become dry and brittle with age, causing the wire insulation to crack—exposing bare metal. Should two bare wires come into contact with one another, a spark can occur and potentially ignite a fire. Electrical systems should be inspected and installed by a professional as well. This can save you wasted time and provide peace of mind that you don’t have an unknown fire hazard.

Conclusion

Restoring a vintage camper trailer or RV can be rewarding in many ways. It will certainly bring years of enjoyment and adventure. It can also help you to build or hone in skills that you’ll find useful for many other projects. With all the benefits it can provide, you should never take shortcuts or compromise your safety in the process. As eager as you’ll be to get out on the open road, it’s vital to tackle every step with diligence and thorough knowledge so that you won’t be left stranded, injured, or unhealthy along your journey.

Ready to find a vintage RV of your own? Start your search on RV Trader today.

Tips For Renting an RV For the First Time

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Mon, 08 Jun 2020 18:36:00 +0000

With states slowly opening and summer just around the corner, people across America are easing back into the world of travel. But the reality is, summer getaways might look a little different this year, and considering many people aren’t ready to fly to their next destination, road trips are making a huge comeback. RVs give you the option to truly have a home on wheels and are ideal for social distancing. Don’t have an RV, but still want to take a trip this summer? RV Trader Rentals could be the perfect option for you. Our rentals are professionally managed and owned so you can feel confident each step of the way. Before you select the RV rental for your next escape, check out some of our tips for renting an RV for the first time.

Tips for Appreciating Nature Indoors

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Mon, 08 Jun 2020 18:30:00 +0000

By: Cynthia Shackleton

There’s a second pandemic taking hold, especially among those who cherish wide-open spaces: cabin fever.

When you can’t hit the road to natural spaces, you need to look elsewhere for your fix. The good news is that there are countless ways to appreciate nature indoors and at home.

Experiencing the great outdoors from inside has some upsides: no biting insects, venomous snakes, or sunburns! While this is a small consolation for a season spent at home, focusing on the positives will make the time pass more quickly. It won't be long before we're back on the road again.

Explore Nature Virtually

The national park system is one of the nation’s greatest treasures, and you can tour many of those parks now. Take a memorable break by using some digital resources to explore the world outside. From the Virgin Islands to Crater Lake, exploring these natural wonders has never been easier. The National Park Foundation offers virtual tours of some extraordinary sites. The program Google Earth also lets you tour a curated group of national parks in the US, from Acadia to Zion. Think of these virtual visits as research for your next road trip.

But why stop at the U.S. border? Technology makes it possible to explore nature around the world, right from your living room. Check out the world’s largest cave in Vietnam or the Zhāngjiājiè national forest park in China in 360 degrees. You can also venture to the southern end of South America to see breathtaking vistas in Patagonia. Fly over the dunes of the Namib Desert in Namibia or watch a show of the northern lights in Sweden.

Dig Into a Garden

One of the easiest ways to commune with nature from home is by creating a garden. It doesn’t matter if you prefer blooms over broccoli — gardening includes everything from cacti to terrariums. Just make sure that you choose an appropriate gardening activity for your situation. Even so-called “easy” trees and plants such as the Money tree, require specific care.

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You don’t need an expansive yard for a garden, either. A small patio or windowsill is enough to start a container garden. Countertop hydroponic systems make it easy to create an herb garden in your kitchen.

Camp in the Backyard

There is something about campfires and s’mores under the stars that can heal the soul. Even if you can’t make it out of the city, staying in a tent or your travel trailer in the backyard can be a great way to disconnect and feel a part of nature.

If you want to be more comfortable you can run an extension cord to your rig to run the air conditioning, radio, and keep the drinks cool in the refrigerator. When you wake up in the morning you may forget for a few minutes that you are enjoying nature in your own backyard.

Immerse Yourself in Nature Sounds

If you find yourself missing the sounds of the wild or wish to be transported to an untamed place, check out some nature soundscapes online. You can put yourself to sleep to an eight-hour recording of birdsongs over a river or the sound of a forest at night. There are hours-long sounds of ocean waves, thunderstorms, rainforests, and more. Despite being unable to travel at the moment, there are many recordings that allow you to close your eyes and go outside.

Use Common Scents

It may not be quite the same as a visit to a campground, but using natural fragrances can create a connection to nature. Essential oils in a diffuser give a hint of gardenia or eucalyptus. An earthy-scented candle can evoke the woods or a coastline, while a floral candle can bring you hints of jasmine or rose. The sense of smell is strongly linked to memory, so tapping into a natural scent can bring back fond memories of familiar outdoor places.

Connecting with nature isn't a walk in the park right now. But unlike the time spent scrolling through the news or social media, time spent tapping into nature is calming and a useful reset. While this is no substitute for traveling, we hope it will inspire you when you do get on the road again.

Author Bio: Cynthia Shackleton is an Ohio native and freelance writer who enjoys gardening and making summer RV trips along Lake Michigan with her motorcyclist husband and two fur babies.

FMCA Tech Tip: RV Battery Types

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Mon, 08 Jun 2020 18:21:00 +0000

Our friends at FMCA are breaking down the different types of batteries for an RV. Check them out below.

Options include lead-acid and lithium-ion, as well as a choice between 6-volt and 12-volt. The 12-volt-DC electrical system is one of the primary lifelines of an RV. The source of that power can involve some combination of generator, shore power, solar energy, and batteries, as well as the converter and the inverter/charger. Here, our focus is batteries, and the possible choices.

If your RV usually is connected to grid power, you aren’t as dependent on the house battery bank; the primary concerns are proper battery maintenance and avoiding overcharging. However, when you are boondocking, or dry camping, you rely heavily on the batteries’ ability to deliver a steady supply of 12-volt power. Historically, the go-to battery for RV use has been the flooded lead-acid battery, which is the oldest type of rechargeable battery, invented in 1859. These are the batteries in automobiles, but for RV house use they have larger plates than “starting” batteries, to facilitate deep cycling. While lead-acid batteries haven’t changed much in more than 100 years, newer technologies have introduced other lead-acid batteries to the market, including gel-cells and absorbed glass mat (AGM); both are of a type called valve-regulated lead-acid (VRLA). And recently, lithium-ion (Li-ion or Li+) technology was introduced. So, which type of battery should you choose for your home on wheels? Also, should you buy 6-volt or 12-volt? Each battery type has its advantages, disadvantages, price range, and requirements. For instance, there are different charging requirements that your existing converter or inverter/charger may not be able to accommodate. So, while you can keep the batteries charged, you run the risk of overcharging or damaging them, or reducing the batteries’ life.

Flooded Lead-Acid

These are still the most common and inexpensive batteries for RV use. Although they can be constructed differently, all batteries of this type consist of lead plates (electrodes) suspended in electrolyte, which is water-based sulphuric acid. Almost all RVs currently in use can accommodate flooded batteries without modification to the charging system. An overview of flooded batteries: *They are available in serviceable or maintenance-free versions. The only difference is that the latter lack caps that allow access to the electrolyte. For serviceable batteries, the electrolyte must be monitored periodically for level and condition. *While all batteries should be kept clean, flooded batteries require regular cleaning of the terminals, posts, straps, and surrounding area to remove corrosive battery acid, which builds up regularly because of the water-based acid. Such batteries also release hydrogen, especially while being charged. *Because the acid is suspended in water, there is a risk of acid damage or injury if a flooded battery leaks, falls over, gets cracked, or is otherwise damaged. *Discharging a deep-cycle flooded battery to less than 50 percent charge can limit battery life. So, such batteries are capable of only about half of their listed amp-hour capacity. *Sulfation — lead sulfate crystals settling on the battery plates — occurs in flooded cells. Reversible sulfation is a normal part of the chemical reaction, but permanent sulfation reduces battery efficiency, as well as life and charge capability. Excessive sulfation is the primary cause of premature failure of flooded lead-acid batteries.

Gel-Cell
This is the next step in the evolution of batteries. Silica dust is added to the electrolyte of these batteries to create a thick gel. Because the electrolyte is much more viscous, it cannot readily leak or spill. Gel-cell batteries have more stringent charging requirements than AGM batteries. Since the advent of AGM, gel-cell batteries have become rare in RVs.

Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM)

These batteries go one step further than gel by absorbing the electrolyte into fine fiberglass pads. The pads can be flat, resulting in standard lead-acid battery size and shape, or they can be rolled into cylinders for a smaller battery footprint. Since the electrolyte of AGM batteries is fully absorbed into mats, the batteries are leak-proof and spill-proof, short of major damage to the battery casing. AGM batteries are not subject to the same charging restrictions as gel batteries, so, generally, standard RV charging equipment can be used without modification. Some high-end converters and inverter/chargers have charge settings for AGM batteries, which have charging curves that differ slightly from those of flooded batteries. As with gel batteries, external corrosion is nonexistent with AGM batteries. In addition, gel and AGM batteries are much less prone to sulfation. And internal resistance is much lower in AGM batteries than in flooded cells, so AGM charging time is much shorter.

Lithium-Ion
Although lithium-ion (Li-ion or Li+) battery technology has been around since the 1980s, historically it has been used in smaller consumer devices such as cell phones and laptop computers. With recent advances, the batteries now can work in larger applications such as RVs and standby power plants. They are a marked departure from their lead-acid counterparts. Comparing the energy density between lithium-ion and lead-acid batteries reveals stark differences. A lead-acid battery can store about 25 watt-hours per kilogram of battery, whereas a lithium-ion battery can store 100 to 265 watt-hours per kilogram. This results in a 50 percent to 70 percent weight savings per amp-hour over a lead-acid battery of the same size. Lithium-ion batteries also have absolutely no discharge memory, so they are almost 100 percent efficient and can be recharged from completely dead in as little as one hour, depending on the charging technology and battery. This means they can deliver their full rated capacity. The built-in electronics automatically regulate the charging, and chargers designed specifically for lithium-ion batteries are highly recommended. Using a “general” charger could reduce the battery life, but this may not be noticeable by the user. It is important to understand the administrative functions that a particular battery management system controls, as not all battery circuitry is the same. Lithium-ion batteries require an onboard control circuit; therefore, the cost compared to lead-acid batteries is very high. However, such costs are defrayed when considering battery life, number of charges possible, and the energy output. (Thanks to Avanti Lalwani of Briter Products for assisting with lithium-ion specifics.)

6-Volt Or 12-Volt Batteries?

The key factor in this choice is current capacity. Two 6-volt batteries must be connected in series in order to achieve 12 volts, whereas two 12-volt batteries must be connected in parallel to maintain 12 volts. In the series configuration, the voltage doubles (6 volts + 6 volts = 12 volts), but the current stays the same. In the parallel scenario, the voltage stays the same, but the current doubles.

One major reason to use 6-volt batteries is to get more current capacity (measured in amp-hours), although that increase may be nominal. The question may arise: If current capacity doubles with two 12-volt batteries configured in parallel, why opt for 6-volt batteries wired in series? The answer: Because of denser plates in a 6-volt battery, the current capacity is more than double that of a single 12-volt battery. Therefore, by installing two 6-volt batteries in place of one 12-volt battery, the mathematical result is a higher current capacity.

The same is true if we double or triple the battery bank. Four 6-volt batteries (wired in a series/parallel configuration) provide more current capacity than two 12-volt batteries, etc. However, installing 6-volt batteries comes at the cost of extra weight and space requirements. Six-volt batteries also may be more expensive than 12-volt batteries. Here is my general advice:

*If you do a lot of boondocking but don’t want to spend the money on lithium-ion batteries, install as many batteries as you can make room for in your RV. I also recommend using 6-volt batteries. While you will have space for only half the number of batteries in terms of equivalent voltage, you will gain more than twice the current capacity. *If money is not a concern, go with lithium-ion. You will have more battery per square foot, and much more current capacity, as these batteries are virtually 100 percent efficient. You also will be able to charge your battery bank very quickly, which is important when dry camping. And you will save significant weight, if this is important to you. Lithium-ion is the battery technology of the future, and I predict the price of these batteries may drop in the next few years. However, the high cost is the only downside, and that is largely offset by their high efficiency and long life. The question of which type of RV batteries to use remains a topic of debate in RV circles. RVers should collect information such as that provided in this article and consider their individual needs in order to make an educated decision.