Santiago Tourist

30 Things To Do When Visiting Santiago, Chile

noreply@blogger.com (AJ) — Thu, 22 May 2008 21:00:00 +0000

Santiago has so many sights and activities worth seeing and doing that it's hard to limit the recommendations to only 30 items. I first got the idea to make this list for Santiago after reading Jeff Barry’s great article, 30 things to do when visiting Buenos Aires. So here’s my list of things to do in Santiago, Chile. I don't feel that it is complete by any means, but these are the things that I really love about Santiago. If you see a link, click on it to read an article that I’ve written with all the info you'll need. For those without links, info can generally be found in standard travel literature or researched easily on the internet. My goal is to write a full review of every item on this list, including all relevant tourist information, and I will be adding to it over time. If you don't have time to read this list now, feel free to print it out and bring it with you to Santiago.

Cerro San Cristóbal: Although it’s almost exclusively a tourist site, there is really no view of the entire city that compares to the panorama at the top of this hill. Take a ride up in the funicular from Bellavista and make sure you visit the statue at the peak. Go a half an hour before sunset on a clear day and watch night fall over the city. You will be amazed.
Plaza de Armas: In the main pedestrian plaza of the city you’ll see tons of street entertainment, art for sale, and get a good look at the faces of Santiago. The chess club of Chile almost always meets here during the days (pretty much every time I’ve been) and I’ve seen public dance displays on weekends. Check out the Cathedral of Santiago here, it’s probably the biggest one in Chile.
Bandera: 30 used clothing stores all on one street. Find anything from used leather jackets to bridal gowns to little league uniforms.
Jazz: There are 4 or 5 jazz clubs in Santiago, 3 of which are in Bellavista. The most famous, however, is Club de Jazz, Santiago, located a short walk from Plaza Ñuñoa (open Thu-Sat). You can find live jazz Wednesday thru Saturday.
La Chascona: One of the 3 homes of Chilean poet Pablo Neruda, the place is decorated with an incredible collection of anything you can imagine from all over the world and is also host to his Nobel Prize. There are rooms designed to create the feeling that you are on a ship, and there are some great views of the city. Check out his Nobel Prize here too. Neruda’s other two houses aren’t too far from Santiago (one in Valparaiso, the other in Isla Negra) and all are worth seeing if you have time (there are tours that take you to all 3 if interested).
Villa Grimaldi: This enclosed plot of land was used as a torture center under Dictator Augusto Pinochet from 1974 – 1978. The political tortures in Chile haven’t been publicized enough to the outside world and this memorial site holds both history and memory. You need to go on a tour of this place if you want to learn about the history of the 1973 military coup and dictatorship in Chile and its violations of human rights. The tour I went on was guided by a survivor of the camp itself, and was extremely emotional. Unfortunately, I don’t have contact info for tours guided by survivors in English, but I know they exist and I will get the info up as soon as I have it.
La Moneda: The courtyard of the Presidential house of Chile is very easy to enter and there are awesome sculptures by Chilean artists worth seeing. Tours of the inside of the building need to be planned in advance. Be sure to toss a coin into the fountain and make a wish.
Cerro Santa Lucia: Right in Santiago Centro, this hill takes 15-20 minutes to climb and provides another sweet view of the city. There are various murals, statues, lookouts and ponds hidden all over the Cerro, and multiple ways to get to the peak (just keep going up).
Fútbol: If you like sports, or even if you don’t, going to a Chilean league game or seeing “La Roja”, Chile’s national selection, is an experience worth having. Crowds can get pretty rowdy, and I wouldn’t recommend sitting in “la barra” where the crowds chant and jump nearly the entire game. The most popular teams are Universidad de Chile, Colo-Colo, and Universidad Catolica (the teams use the names of the universities, but have no current relation).
Skiing and Snowboarding: – How many global cities are only an hour away from high quality ski resorts? Well Santiago is. Check out one of the biggest resorts in South America, Valle Nevado, or one of the smaller ones such as Farellones or La Parva, all within an hour and a half from the city.
Mercado Central: After walking around the fish market of Santiago, have a meal at one of the restaurants. Although touristy and a bit overpriced, you’ll find the most exquisite seafood in the city, including crabs the size of a basketball. While you’re here, check out La Vega Central, the biggest fruit market in Chile (a whole city block), just across the river from Mercado Central.
Have a Terremoto at La Piojera: – The terremoto (translation: earthquake) is a Santiago staple “copete” (drink) that every traveler needs to try. What is it? A mix of wine, pisco (a domestic liquor made from grapes), pineapple ice cream, and a hint of grenadine. Make sure to mix well and you will walk out feeling like a tremor just hit you. La Piojera is only a minute’s walk from Mercado Central.
Giratorio: – If you haven’t had enough panoramic views of the city at Cerros San Cristóbal and Santa Lucía, have dinner at this restaurant on the top floor of a 20-something story building. You’ll eat on a rotating platform that allows you to view all points of the city throughout the course of an hour and 15 minutes. Pricier than most, but eating with the view is worth it. Metro: Los Leones.
Sushi: While I’m not too keen on Chilean food itself, the countless sushi restaurants in the city never let me down. You do have to be careful however, as Chilean sushi comes with cream cheese on just about everything (although it can be requested without). Try “Too Much” near Metro Tobalaba. They have an all you can eat special (really tasty) for 5.000 pesos ($10 US) and a really interesting drink called Wasabi Sour, which seems to be a Pisco Sour with some wasabi inside. Too Much, Santiago.
Salsa Dancing: There are live Salsa shows as well as some dance clubs with live bands in Santiago. Check out Havana Salsa (address: Dominica 142) for shows or Ilé Havana (on Bucharest, a short walk from Metro Los Leones) for live music and dancing. Yes, they like to exploit the name Havana.
Emporio La Rosa: The best ice cream in Santiago. Have one while wandering around the neighborhood of Lastarria/Bellas Artes. Close to Plaza Italia. Address: Merced 291.
Republica: This street is lined with tons of small universities and stately manors that house specific schools of major ones. Go on a school day in the afternoon to check out the Chilean college scene. Many of the buildings on this street are old mansions converted into schools. The Savlador Allende Solidarity Museum, a collection of art confiscated and hidden during the dictatorship, can also be found here. Metro: Republica.
Quinta Normal: You could call it Santiago’s museum district, a huge park on the east end of Santiago Centro. I don’t know the exact number, but I would guess there are between 5 and 10 museums in the park and you could spend a whole day here. Some museums include: Museum of Visual Arts, The Train Museum, and The Artequin, which displays remakes of the world’s masterpieces, such as Van Gogh’s Starry Night. Most museums close around 5 or 6.
Plaza Ñuñoa: Great for a night out with an ambience completely different from the hustle of El Centro and Providencia. Safe neighborhood, tons of bars and restaurants, a rock club (Batuta), a university theater, a jazz club, and a cool lit up fountain.
Lastarria: One of the more bohemian streets in Santiago, go for a stroll at night and pick from one of the many restaurants or cafés to eat at. During the day/evening, there are a few street vendors that cater to the more sophisticated crowd, like the guy who sells original prints of historic Chilean newspaper editions (including the first report of the 1973 military coup). You can also head towards Museo Bellas Artes from here and there are even more mid-upper range restaurants, cafés and bars to chose from. There’s also an art theater that plays principally foreign films on Lastarria.
Museo Bellas Artes and Museo de Arte Contemporaneo: Museo Bellas Artes is Santiago’s flagship museum and for good reason. I had avoided going in for my first four months here because I thought it would typical art that I don’t really care for. Turns out that Chile has an amazing Contemporary art scene and Museo Bellas Artes hosts some of the best works in the country. The Museo de Arte Contemporaneo is adjacent to Bellas Artes and is basically an extension of the latter. Admission is free on Sundays, plus when you’re done, you can check out…
Barrio Bellas Artes and Parque Forestal on Sundays: Every decent-weathered Sunday, hundreds to thousands of Chileans come out to the section of Parque Forestal right around Museo Bellas Artes to enjoy the life in Santiago. There’s tons of used clothes and art for sale, people playing music and break dancing, jugglers, great street entertainment that you can understand without speaking Spanish, and more. You really can’t go to Santiago without seeing this.
Facultad de Arquitectura y Urbanismo, Universidad de Chile: This awesome open art display by the students of the school of design at the national university never ceases to amaze me. I studied here for six months and saw sweet new art every week.
Parque Arauco: If you want to see where the upper echelon of Santiago buys its clothes, check out some of the department stores at this huge indoor/outdoor mall. Has a year-round ice-skating rink, a Nike store, an Apple store and live music Saturday evenings. My favorite store here is Zoo Concept, which has awesome shoes and odds and ends. For even classier shopping, head to Portal La Dehesa.
Museo Ralli: One of the smaller museums I’ve been to in Chile and also perhaps my favorite. The museum hosts modern art from all over ibero-america and has works that really impressed me. My personal highlight was stumbling upon the six to eight original sculptures by Salvador Dalí. Awesome. You can get there by metro, then bus, then walking, but I would just get to Metro Escuela Militar and then take a taxi to the address: Alonso de Sotomayor 4110. Map. Hours: November to April, Tue-Sat, 11:00am to 5:00pm. May to October, Tue-Sat, 10:30am to 4pm. Call (56) 2 2064224 to confirm hours as they aren’t always fixed.
Cementario General: All but two of Chile’s presidents (Liberator Bernardo O’Higgins and Dictator Augusto Pinochet) are buried here. Each president’s tomb varies between 2 and 3 stories in height and is quite impressive. If you liked the Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires, you’ll love this one. Metro: Cementarios.
Bellavista: The ultimate nightlife sector of Santiago is also very centrally located. Tons of bars (for drinking), discotecas (for dancing and drinking), and restaurants (for eating, and of course, drinking). There is also plenty to do here during the day, but be on your guard at night as there are many drunks and people looking to take advantage of outsiders.
Sanhattan/El Golf: Get off the metro at stops Tobalaba or El Golf to see the modern second financial center of Santiago. There is some great architecture here and awesome sculptures all around, including a series of painted horses down the main drag, Apoquindo.
Sculpture Park: Along the banks of the not so beautiful Mapocho River running through Santiago lies a tranquil park with about 30 sculptures made by Chilean artists. This is a gem of the city that I have never seen talked about in English guides to Santiago. Make sure to check out the concerts in the park in summer months (January-March). Getting there: From metro Pedro de Valdivia, walk north on Pedro de Valdivia to the other side of the river and it’ll be on your right hand side. Map. Ask anyone for “Parque de Esculturas” if you feel lost.
Winery Tours: Chile is known for a lot of things, but I think wine is that which I was most aware of before coming here. Viña Concha y Toro offers tours all seasons, but I've heard about much better tours (Concha y Toro is the only one I've been on). Some tours let you actually pick grapes and participate in the wine making process while at others you only get to do the tasting, so research carefully.

If you feel I missed anything, messed anything up, or want to give me any feedback, please feel free to post in the comments section below or email me at ajblock7 "at" gmail "dot" com. Hope you enjoyed.

Reader Advice on Things To Do in Santiago, Chile

noreply@blogger.com (AJ) — Tue, 15 Jan 2008 06:33:00 +0000

I received this email a couple of days ago from a reader named Jacobo, giving some tips on my list of 30 Things To Do When Visiting Santiago, Chile. If any of you have used my list on your trips, please give me feedback and I will post it on here for the benefit of all of the readers. Here’s the email I received, with a few grammatical corrections:

I just considered your list when showing Santiago to two American friends. Based on this experience I would suggest that you add:

Museo de Arte Precolombino (Pre-columbian Art Museum)

This is not just a classical anthropological or ethnographic museum, full of all kinds of different objects, rather, exclusively an “ART” one. It displays a large and extremely well selected collection of art objects from the different Latin America cultures. Wonderful ceramic, stone, jade, copper and gold objects, rare textiles, etc. Also some interesting temporary exhibitions and a good book, video and reproductions store.

Address : Bandera 361. Downtown. One block away from Plaza de Armas and three from La Moneda. (Good web site : www.precolombino.cl)

I believe that this museum, along with Ralli, is the only one worth being visited by tourists.

“Changing of the Guard” – (When visiting La Moneda)

You can see the ceremony of the change of the guard every other day at 10 o’clock in the square in front of the main entrance of the presidential palace. Far from having the magnificence of Buckingham Palace, this is a very decent ceremony carried by members of the police (some good looking female cops and officers among them) wearing dark green uniforms. Some minutes after its end you can visit the House. No identification documents are required, only metal checking, as in the airports.

Winery Tours

There are many tours to wineries near Santiago. The tour, “Tren del Vino” considers a long trip in an antique (100 years old) train. A little far from Santiago (about 95 miles), takes a whole day. The tour includes a 2 hour bus ride from Santiago, 2 hours in train, visiting wineries and tasting wines, lunch (of course having wine), a visit to an interesting wine museum (Colchagua) and a two hour bus back to Santiago. Important : This tour is only on Saturdays. Reserve at least three days before. Price approx. US$125. http://www.gochile.cl/eng/Tour/Tours-Tren-Vino.asp

I would also suggest that you remove the following:

“Bellas Artes” and “Arte Contemporáneo”

Our visit to these museums was disappointing. I would at least eliminate the “Arte Contemporáneo”.

Fútbol

The Chilean soccer teams are really horrible. I would not recommend going to see a game, unless it were played by foreign national teams (if possible from Brazil or Argentina).

So again, any feedback is much appreciated, keep it coming.

Resources for Travel, Study Abroad, or Living in Santiago, Chile

noreply@blogger.com (AJ) — Mon, 31 Dec 2007 00:35:00 +0000

Santiago is a great city to live in if you want to learn Spanish and have a life changing experience. Here is a list of sites that can help you travel, study or work in Chile.

The Chile Information Project – From the website, “CHIP is a definitive news, information and travel resource for Chile.”
Transitions Abroad – This is basically the ultimate guide to living or alternative travel in any country. The Living in Chile article has tons of great resources.
Saborizante Santiago – Although in Spanish, this site usually has pretty up to date info on nightlife and events going on in Santiago.
Chileno – A Santiago blogger who covers current events in Chile and has been running a feature on Living in Chile, an Expat Guide. He also has a list of Chile blogs written in English.
La Guía de Santiago – Another events guide in Spanish.
Blogtrotter: Chile – The detailed accounts of one man’s travels in Santiago (I think he’s been here like 4 times).
Love to Travel Chile – Kyle’s in-depth blog of things to see and do in Chile’s capital.
The Santiago Times – An English language newspaper in Santiago, Chile.
El Mercurio – The main Chilean newspaper.
Compartodepto.cl – Through this site I found my first apartment in Chile and lived with a bunch of chilean university students. Register for free and find your own housing through this great site.

Please add any resources you have in the comments section.

New Carnival

noreply@blogger.com (AJ) — Mon, 03 Dec 2007 03:29:00 +0000

I really like The Carnival of Cities because it usually only accepts high quality articles. More than that, if you want to get some good travel ideas, the carnival publishes articles from all of the world. One of my articles made it in their newest edition, so check it out.

Stay tuned... big post coming

Santiago Tourist Published in Carnival of Travel Guide #1

noreply@blogger.com (AJ) — Thu, 29 Nov 2007 00:37:00 +0000

Yeah, I submitted my article on Cerro San Cristóbol to the Carnival of Travel Guide #1 and it got in. I checked out the relatively new host site, Travel Hacker, and they have some solid content on there about budget travel, including a bunch of good lists. So check out the blog carnival and their site and enjoy. Chao.

Battle of the Cell Phone Towers

noreply@blogger.com (AJ) — Mon, 26 Nov 2007 18:37:00 +0000

Torre Entel (seen here) is the biggest eyesore I have ever seen. Odds are, you'll most likely see it if you are doing anything in Santiago Centro, but for those who don't, it's located a block west from La Moneda on Alameda (map). Fortunately, there are many tall buildings on the north side of the tower, so you don't have to be exposed to this urban atrocity from too many points in the city. Check out a picture of the Movistar Building, the second ugliest building in Santiago, in my Plaza Italia Article.

Cerro San Cristóbal – Spectacular Panoramic View of Santiago

noreply@blogger.com (AJ) — Sun, 25 Nov 2007 15:14:00 +0000

Although it’s probably on of the Top 5 tourist sites of Santiago, Cerro San Cristóbal is not overrated in the least. The big mound in the middle of the city affords one of the most incredible Santiago panoramas available. Every time I head up, my knowledge of the city has increased, and thus I am able to point out more landmarks, distinguish different sectors, etc. For those unfamiliar to Santiago, the view from up here will let you orient the city in its surroundings: the Andes Mountains and the Cordillera de la Costa.

Whenever someone comes to visit me in Santiago, I take them up Cerro San Cristóbal, and even on smoggy winter days, the view is still stunning. The last time I went up with a couple of friends from Buenos Aires, we climbed as it was getting late in the day and we got to see night fall over the city. Having an amazing panorama and watching it turn from day to night in the course of about a half an hour is a sight that can’t be missed.

Note: The clearest view you will ever get from up here is after a rain, as it reduces the amount of smog in the air. This is especially relevant in winter, and if you do go after a rain, you will have an amazing view of the snow-capped Andes. In the summer, most days should have decent visibility.

The Santiago Zoo is also halfway up Cerro San Cristóbal and can be accessed from the Bellavista Funicular (Zoo hours: Tue-Sun 10am-5pm).

Getting there: There are two common ways to get to the top of Cerro San Cristóbal. You can either take the funicular that leaves from Bellavista, walk-able from Plaza Italia, or the Gondola (Spanish: “Teleférico”) that goes from Providencia, a 10-15 minute walk from Metro Pedro de Valdivia in Providencia.

Bellavista Funicular: From Metro Baquedano (Plaza Italia), head towards the only big hill you see (to the north). The funicular station, as well as zoo access, can be found at the star on this map. Open Mon 1pm–8pm, Tue–Sun 10am–8pm.

Providencia Teleférico: Walking distance from Metro Pedro de Validivia. Ask around for how to get there. I’ll try to get some better information on this site ASAP (update 11/29/07: Directions have been posted below in the comments section). Hours Mon 2:30pm-8pm, Tue-Fri 12:30pm-8pm, Sun 10:30am-8:30pm.

Chileno Reviews My Blog

noreply@blogger.com (AJ) — Thu, 22 Nov 2007 19:45:00 +0000

Well, I asked for it. Chileno recently reviewed my blog and damn if he didn’t let me have it. For those of you who don’t know who Chileno is, I’ve been reading his blog a bit so I’ll explain. Basically he’s a pessimistic, acerbic, and seemingly witty American ex-pat living in Santiago and complaining for a living (if you feel there is a better description, please post it below). I really don’t know what he does, but his blog is entertaining and a good way to get informed about the issues going on in Chile and a good forum of debate (if you think you are well informed). Be careful about posting on his blog though because he doesn’t hesitate to attack, and if you contest him, make sure you cite your sources.

Angel Parra Trio + DJ - Free Jazz/Latin Concert This Wednesday

noreply@blogger.com (AJ) — Mon, 19 Nov 2007 20:15:00 +0000

I just checked out “Saborizante Santiago”, a Santiago events site (in Spanish), and saw that Angel Parra Trio is playing with Bitman for free on Wednesday, November 21, 2007 (thx Roci). I’ve never heard of turn-tabler Bitman, but I do know Angel Parra Trio. Not only are they one of the most legit jazz groups in Chile, they also play a good deal of Latin music, especially salsa and bossa. I can only guess that the added element of a DJ will be awesome. I’m definitely going to this event, hope to see you there.

Venue: Gran Central
Address: Las Urbinas 44, Providencia
Start Time: 10:00 pm
Cost: Free
Getting There: A short walk from metros Los Leones and Pedro de Valdivia. Map.

New York Street Art (Graffiti) in Santiago

noreply@blogger.com (AJ) — Mon, 19 Nov 2007 01:16:00 +0000

Exhibit: “Arte Callejero de Nueva York” (New York Street Art) featuring photography by Leonora Calderón – Open from now until December 23, 2007.

Chilean photographer Leonora Calderón sought out some of the best street art (what some may think of as graffiti) in the Big Apple, and her photos are incredible. Yesterday I went into the exhibit with high expectations (as I love street art), and it more than exceeded them. This is a must-see for anyone interested in modern art or urban culture.

Each one of the 30 or so photographs shown in the small two-room gallery spoke its own message. Some themes included comedic representations of New Yorkers, a huge mural of legendary rapper Biggie Smalls, and various political messages. My favorite would have to be the plump sexualized Lady Liberty held on a leash by a monkey with the face of an all-too-familiar head of state (see below). If that’s not political art at its finest, I don’t know what is.

Getting there: Head to metro Puente Cal y Canto on Line 2 (yellow). The exhibit is in the Sala de Fotografía (Photography Room) on the second floor of Estación Mapocho, the huge building you’ll see as you surface from the depths of the Santiago underground.

Hours: Tuesday – Sunday, 10:30 am – 2:00 pm and 3:00 pm to 7:00 pm. Closed Mondays.

Cost: Free

Make sure to take one of the free gallery guides, as they have great color pictures of all of the big prints in the exhibit. Estacion Mapocho is also located super close to Bandera (for used clothes shopping), Mercado Central (if you want to grab a touristy seafood lunch or dinner) and La Vega Central (where Santiago goes to buy its produce).

Best Ice Cream in Town - Emporio La Rosa

noreply@blogger.com (AJ) — Fri, 16 Nov 2007 16:16:00 +0000

There's really nothing like strolling around the bohemian neighborhood of Bellas Artes (Lastarria) with an exotic ice cream cone from Emporio La Rosa. This place has both traditional flavors as well as some strange but interesting combinations, all of which are incredible. I've also heard the food is pretty decent, but I haven't tried it (yet).

Flavors that you need to taste (just say "puedo probar xxx" for a free sample):

Chocolate Basil (Chocolate Albahaca)
Rose (Rosa)
Strawberry and Black Pepper (Frutilla y Pimienta)

My personal favorites:

Strawberry (Frutilla)
Vanilla
Chirimoya (indigenous fruit - delicious)

Price: I can't remember exactly, but a 2-flavor cone goes for about 1500 pesos ($3 US).

Hours: Supposedly Emporio La Rosa is open M-Sat 9:30am - 9:30pm and on Sundays it closes at 2. Despite these "hours" I've gone on a Sunday around 4 and the place was open, so its worth stopping by if its not too out of the way.

Getting there: A 3 minutes walk from either metro Universidad Catolica or Bellas Artes and about a 5 minute walk from Plaza Italia/Baquedano. See map for all reference points.

Address: Merced 291

Awesome Open Art Display – Universidad de Chile, Facultad de Arquitectura y Urbanismo

noreply@blogger.com (AJ) — Wed, 14 Nov 2007 18:32:00 +0000

Want to see a living, breathing art museum? The School of Design at the University of Chile allows its students and professors to decorate their own campus, resulting in an extremely dynamic art environment that constantly changes and improves. The building’s bold marigold façade frequently gets covered with student murals and posters, and each locker on campus has been painted by its individual owner. There are new things popping up every week, including full size sculptures made from all sorts of materials.

I probably wouldn’t have even known about the school had I not been afforded the opportunity to study there. Fortunately, the Geography department is on the same campus, so I get to see the student art display change on a daily basis. The tin men seen here have been a theme this entire semester, and have been seen riding horse sculptures, crossing a pedestrian walkway in Abby Road fashion, and seated behind the desk of a security booth reading a newspaper (it was classic, sorry for not having a picture).

Make sure you go during daylight and give yourself at least an hour to wander the entire campus, as there is something around every corner. I still find undiscovered surprises and new displays all the time.

The campus is open from 8am to 9pm M-F and I’m pretty sure it’s open on Saturdays, although I can’t tell you for sure. Getting there is only a minute’s walk from Metro Universidad Católica. Map. It’s also only a few blocks away from both Plaza Italia and Cerro Santa Lucia.

"The Real Santiago" Published in "Carnival of Cities"

noreply@blogger.com (AJ) — Wed, 14 Nov 2007 04:36:00 +0000

The latest edition of Carnival of Cities, "Food Edition", published my article on Using Public Transportation in Santiago. Obviously it doesn't fit the theme of food, but hey, I ain't complaining. Enjoy.

The Police (the band) Come to Santiago

noreply@blogger.com (AJ) — Sun, 11 Nov 2007 20:37:00 +0000

For anyone who's going to be here on December 5, 2007, The Police (Sting, "Roxanne", the whole shabang) are playing in Estadio Nacional (Ñuñoa).

Although I know you aren't visiting Chile to see globalized popular music, going to a stadium event in Santiago is an experience in itself. When I saw Incubus here... well, lets just say the Chileans are a truly different crowd. You'll have to see for yourself.

Tickets are $30-40 US and can be bought at ticketmaster chile. Although the site is in Spanish, it seems pretty straightforward to navigate. I would buy cancha (field level) tickets (which I assume are for standing only) at 19,000 pesos ($38 US) if you want to get close to the stage. Send me an email if you need help with the website.

Getting there is pretty straightforward: From El Centro, micro number 508 goes directly from Plaza Italia. See animated map. From Providencia or anywhere east of there, get to Metro Grecia (Linea 4), and hop on micro 506, 507, or 510 going west. See animated map. Just say "Estadio Nacional?" inquisitively to the bus driver to make sure that he's passing by there. A cab will be about 3,000 pesos ($6 US) from Plaza Italia, and about 1,000 pesos ($2 US) from either metro Grecia (Linea 4) or metro Irarrazaval (Linea 5).

Bandera - All The Used Clothes You Could Possibly Want

noreply@blogger.com (AJ) — Sat, 10 Nov 2007 19:14:00 +0000

For some reason, I have never seen Bandera mentioned in any English language piece on Santiago. Well I’m about to expose it to the world. Bandera is a street lined with 25 to 30 used clothing stores where you can literally find anything you are looking for, dirt cheap. T-shirts of all kinds sell for 500-2000 pesos ($1-4 US), dress shirts a little more, they have pants, shoes, hats, jackets, you name it. A few stores even have legit used trench coats (the kind you would wear on a freezing day in New York City). I almost bought one that they were selling for 15,000 pesos ($30 US) that probably cost about $200 US new, if not more.

It gets better.

The location of this shopping mecca is only a block away from Plaza de Armas. To get from Plaza de Armas to Bandera, while facing the cathedral, exit Plaza de Armas on the right hand side, following the street named “Catedral”. Bandera will be the first major street that you hit, just turn right and the stores will begin. Metro stations U. de Chile, La Moneda, Plaza de Armas, and Puenta Cal y Canto all provide convenient access, as you can see on the map (you may have to zoom out a little to see the other metro stations). The used clothing stores pretty much line the street from the star north to Metro Puente Cal y Canto. Most stores open in the morning and close around 7 pm. Everything is closed on Sundays. Make sure to wash the clothes before wearing, just in case.

Update 11/14/07 - There's also an amazing pita/falafel place on Bandera, a few blocks south of "Cathedral" on the right hand side.

Using Public Transportation in Santiago

noreply@blogger.com (AJ) — Fri, 09 Nov 2007 20:40:00 +0000

In February 2007, Santiago went through a complete overhaul of its public transportation system and most travel literature on Santiago has not yet accommodated for the change. This article will explain in depth how to get around the Chilean megalopolis using public transit. Riding on Transantiago (the name of the new system) is pretty safe and efficient, even for foreigners. I get around the city almost exclusively on “micros” (buses) and “metro” (subway). The only times I ever take a taxi are if it’s late at night (past 11), and even then I’ll still take a bus after midnight (the metro closes around 10:30) if I’m with friends. However, I don’t recommend doing so if you don’t feel comfortable with the system nor speak spanish. Taxis at night are pretty cheap since there is little traffic.

I understand this is a lengthy article, so if you don’t have time to read it now, I suggest you print it out and bring it with you to Santiago, as it will give you all the information and resources you will need to navigate the city.

Tarjeta bip!

This charge card allows you to get on any metro or micro for 380 pesos (about 75¢ US). Furthermore, you can transfer from metro to a micro or vice versa and not get charged extra, as the fare carries over for 90 minutes from your first point of entry. The card itself costs 1,000 pesos ($2 US) and can be charged in any metro station or any corner store where you see the bip! logo. Sometimes when I go out at night, the only things I carry are cash and my tarjeta bip!

MapCity

Since there is no Google Maps website for Santiago (at time of writing), the equivalent is www.mapcity.cl. However, as a traveler, I know you will not always have access to the internet, and thus the website is not ideal. Luckily, you can buy a great little book that the company publishes and sells at newpaper/magazine stands anywhere in the city for 1,000 – 2,000 pesos ($2-4 US). Just ask at any kiosk if they sell “Mapcity” (pronounced “map see-tee”) and they’ll understand. In both English and Spanish, the booklet itself (pictured) has 153 pages of city maps, a metro plan, and a list of all the streets in the city (like any road atlas) so you can do your own analog Google map search. The book is really better than any tourist map you can buy because it has all of the metro stops displayed clearly on the maps, and you can get to a lot of sites of interest by metro. Unfortunately the information on using the buses (known as “micros”) in Mapcity is less than adequate, and getting to certain sites such as Plaza Ñuñoa, Estadio Nacional, and Parque Arauco will require the use of buses (see “Getting on a micro” below).

Transantiago map and/or website

Transantiago puts out both a website and a free paper map that are essential to the understanding of transit in the capital. The map lists all the bus routes and metro lines and is super user friendly. I get around exclusively by using the Mapcity book and the Transantiago paper map, which I keep posted on my wall. The map can be picked up at any Transantiago information center in the city (note that they all close 6pm weekdays, 4pm Saturdays, and aren’t open on Sundays) or online in nine pdf documents. You really only need 2 to 4 of these map segments, especially the maps of El Centro and Providencia which can be joined by placing them side by side, connecting the red metro line. I would actually say that if you are planning ahead, it’s worth going to a print center and paying a few bucks (or pounds, or whatever currency you readers use) to print color versions of the two map segments in particular.

Planning a trip on the Transantiago website can be confusing, and if you don’t speak a bit of Spanish, I wouldn’t even bother trying. The site works just like getting driving directions on Google maps: you can list a starting point and destination, and the site will tell you how to get there via public transit. In that respect the site is pretty unique, but unfortunately, this site is confusing even for me, and I speak Spanish. So for those of you wishing to try your luck, go to the Transantiago website and then click on “Planifica tu viaje”. Try getting to Plaza Ñuñoa by typing the intersection of Jorge Washington with Irarrazaval (use your own starting destination).

Metro

The Santiago Metro is very clean, efficient, and packed like sardines during rush hours. If you are planning on going in metro between 7 and 9 am, you may have to wait for a few trains to pass because of the packed conditions. Nevertheless, you will have to be aggressive if you want to get on, but don’t be scared. 95% of the time that I go in metro its not packed, the only real times you have to be worried about are if you are going toward El Centro or Providencia during those hours on a weekday.

When you walk into a metro station, there are generally maps of the entire metro network very clearly displayed. The lines are named by the last station that they reach in a given direction, so for example, Line 1 east is named Escuela Militar, and Line 1 west is named San Pablo. Check out this interactive metro map that lets you calculate travel time by metro. So once you know where you are going, just swipe your tarjeta bip! and head toward the line you want to get on. Transferring lines is also simple. When you get off a train in a transfer station, you will see a sign that says something like “Cambiar a Linea 4 – La Cisterna”. Make sure you get on the right direction or else you will be on the wrong side of the platform.

Getting on a micro (bus)

The Santiago micros can take a while to master, but riding them is a skill worth having as they provide access to the parts of the city that the metro doesn’t. The main micros that you will be using are the inter-communal buses (go to more than one zone as defined by the transantiago map), which can be discerned by their color: white with a green diagonal stripe (see photo). The local buses (those that stay within one zone) are painted the color of that zone on the map. Thus buses in Ñuñoa (zone D) are yellow, but depending on where you are staying in the city, you may not need to have to bother with the local buses. Anyways, at each metro stop there is a placard that says which buses should stop there. When a bus pulls up, it has its route # and a list of the main streets it runs posted in its front window in the lower right. If the bus stops, don’t be shy to step one foot on and ask the driver “a metro Baquedano?” or “a Parque O’Higgins?”. If he understood you he should let you know if you are on the right line, but if there is a problem communicating, you may just have to wing it… buena suerte

Taxi recommendations

Taxi drivers in Santiago are notorious for ripping off gringos, so you have to be careful, although I really can’t think of a way to prevent getting shafted. Actually I can, be with a Chilean and only have him speak, haha. Radiotaxis are the safest, they come right to your door after a quick phone call. They start the fare at 1000 pesos ($2 US) and then start charging you at the same rate as a normal taxi, which starts the fare at 200 pesos. The normal taxis are the ones that you see everywhere, yellow on top and black on the bottom. For some perverse reason, fake blonde girls here are called “taxis”, but I can’t seem to figure out why… Like I said, taxis at night should be cheap. The other day it cost me 3,000 pesos ($6 US) to get from Plaza Ñuñoa to Cerro Santa Lucia (in El Centro), so if you start seeing anything more than that on a short ride, start suspecting something. I’ve heard of gringos getting charged between 10 and 20.000 pesos ($20-40 US), but I think if your smart and agreeable, you shouldn’t run into too many problems.

So that’s pretty much it for the guide, if you've made it this far, you are now ready to tackle the mean streets of Santiago. I hope you enjoyed, and please, let me know if this guide helped you or if you feel it’s missing anything.

Creamfields Tonight

noreply@blogger.com (AJ) — Fri, 09 Nov 2007 16:12:00 +0000

The international electronic music festival Creamfields comes to Santiago tonight. The line up includes the Chemical Brothers. Check out http://www.creamfields.cl/ for more info. The event is in Movicenter Santiago and I got to directions on how to get there at the Transantiago website, although they aren't too helpful if you don't speak Spanish. I really don't know if there are tickets left, but I might go check it out.
AJ

The Center of the Chilean Universe – Plaza Italia (Baquedano)

noreply@blogger.com (AJ) — Fri, 09 Nov 2007 01:31:00 +0000

The first thing you need to know if you want to orient yourself in Santiago is the location of Plaza Italia, also known as (Metro) Baquedano. This huge roundabout sits in the heart of the city, with Bellavista and Cerro San Cristóbal to the north, Providencia to the east, Ñuñoa to the south, and El Centro to the west. From what I understand, the name Plaza Italia originated from the statue (northeast side of the plaza) given to Chile by Italy for their 100 year anniversary. Note that Plaza Italia is the point where Alameda (Avenida Bernardo O’Higgins) changes its name to Providencia on the east side. The most blatant feature of the central hub is the Telfónica tower, which is shaped like a ridiculously large cell phone (referred to as La Torre Celular, see photo).

This recent addition to the Santiago skyline (1996) happens to be the tallest building in the city, perhaps in the country. I suppose that Telefónica, one of the largest telephone service providers in Chile, really wanted to make a statement, as you can pretty much see the building from any decent vantage point in the entire city. The bottom floor of the building is a free museum, which is worth a stop if you are passing by (which you inevitably will be if you plan to actually see Santiago). I’ve seen two exhibits there: an abstract art exhibition and a Star Wars tribute, so who knows what you’ll find.

Metro Baquedano is a convenient access point for the following locations: Bellavista, Cerro San Cristóbal, and La Chascona (Pablo Neruda’s house) all found due north of the plaza, just walk toward the big hill and cross the bridge (northeast side of the plaza or left hand side if you are walking from the metro toward the hill). Parque Bustamante, Parque Balmaceda and Parque Forestal flank the east, south and western tips of the plaza.

Note: I almost always hear the plaza referred to as Plaza Italia by Chileans, unless they are talking about going to the metro station, in which case they will say Baquedano. To see Plaza Italia on a map, click here.

About

noreply@blogger.com (AJ) — Thu, 08 Nov 2007 22:09:00 +0000

I lived in Santiago, Chile for six months and I can truly say that this city is underrated on the list of top global tourist destinations. Santiago offers an intriguing history (only having left dictatorship 19 years ago), amazing night life sectors, and a face that can't be compared to anywhere else. This guide is intended to show you what you really need to see and know to make the best of your time in Santiago.

I came here to study and learn Spanish, but I've seen more of the city than you will possibly be able to cover, even if you stay a month. I'm going to try to share with you all the greatest spots in Santiago, whether or not they are covered in the published tour guides. I did actually come here with an English travel guide (Let's Go: Chile), but those things are written from such an outsider's point of view, that you can't really get the Santiago experience (nor can you in any foreign city) if you don't read literature written by a native, or of course, live there. So although I'm not a native, I lived in Santiago for a long period and I really think I have enough to share about this great city that you will find useful.

AJ Block

Contact

noreply@blogger.com (AJ) — Tue, 04 Sep 2007 02:32:00 +0000

I can be contacted at:
ajblock7 'at' gmail 'dot' com