Savory Stitches

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2016-09-05T19:13:00.000-04:00

Further evidence of my love of prints over solids... @grainlinestudio #portsidetravelset duffle with burgundy leather and canvas outer, @cottonandsteel lining, printed at 80% for the perfect 1-2 day trip size! Just waiting for some matching webbing for a long strap. #sewphotohop
A photo posted by Mika (@mikamakesit) on Sep 5, 2016 at 1:37pm PDT

Apparently I blinked and 2.5 years passed since my last post! Must have something to do with the job I started right around that time... I didn't stop sewing though. I'm not planning on blogging again any time soon, but I am on instagram now, as @mikamakesit. Come find me!

FO: Layer Cake Plantain Tee

2014-01-29T11:59:00.002-05:00

I'm back with my latest Plantain tee!

I am really enjoying the versatility of this pattern... just like I did with Colette's Laurel, I am planning on multiple versions. This one is a sweater knit with poly crinkle chiffon at the hem.

I changed the hem of the tee to a high-low one, and the chiffon is just a rectangle the width of the fabric and about 8" tall. I folded it over to create the two layers, and hemmed it by folding the edge up by about 1/2", then doing a small zigzag over the fold and trimming the excess fabric. I'm very pleased with this method (which, fingers crossed, is holding secure so far) because it didn't interfere as much with the drape of the fabric as all of the other methods I tried. Plus, it was relatively quick - I had no interest in spending hours hemming. I gathered the rectangle to fit the sweater hem, basted it in, and then secured the two together while hemming with a double needle.

Other than that, the only changes I made from last time were my forward shoulder adjustment (which worked, YAY), and sewing the neckline with the prescribed 5/8" SA for a narrower binding. I still used 3/8" SAs for the rest of the tee, since this sweater knit has very little stretch and I needed the extra room.

This shirt helps to fill the gap in my wardrobe for long sleeved items to wear with pants; with the frigid weather we've been having in NY, tights just have not been cutting it and my clothing options have shrunk considerably. So pleased to add this to the rotation!

QUICK FACTS
Fabric: Sweater knit from (now closed?) Jem Fabrics Warehouse, & poly crinkle chiffon from Fabric.com
Pattern: Plantain t-shirt from Deer and Doe
Modifications: High-low hem and chiffon ruffle

FO: A Plantain Tee

2014-01-22T13:45:00.001-05:00

When I saw Deer & Doe's new Plantain tee pattern, I knew it would make a great basic. Plus it's free!

Ugh... iPhone photos. :(

I made up this top as a muslin. The fabric has been sitting on my shelf for quite a while, one of those prints that I loved online but felt less pleased with in-person. It's actually been surprising that I've found myself reaching for it this week, which I think is a good sign for my relationship with this pattern.

This is a size 36, sewn with 3/8" seams rather than the 5/8" called for. I prefer 3/8" on knits, and I was between sizes so this gave me the extra room I needed. I do wish the sleeves were a little bit more fitted, so I think I'll try either altering the pattern to fit the sleeves from my beloved Jalie 2921, or sewing with the intended 5/8" SA for a closer fit. I also definitely need a forward shoulder adjustment on this... the shoulder seam moves back a good 1/2-3/4" while I'm wearing it.

As for future versions, I'm definitely making one with this fox print from Girl Charlee:

I've also got a sweater knit & chiffon combo idea, and a white tee with some fabric paint embellishment. Anyone else making a Plantain?

QUICK FACTS
Fabric: Rayon/poly knit (I think) from Fabric.com
Pattern: Plantain t-shirt from Deer & Doe
Mods: 3/8" SA

FO: Lady Lumberjack Archer

2014-01-09T15:30:00.002-05:00

Archer #2! (#1 here.)

I'm pretty pleased with this one, though style-wise it's pretty different from what I usually wear. I started this right after Christmas, and just could not get myself to go to the store to buy matching thread and enough matching buttons. The cut out pieces lay neglected until I finally ventured out over the weekend to the closest store to me that stocks thread. The 25 minute walk took about 45 minutes because people in my neighborhood seem to have decided not to shovel their sidewalks or put down salt. I may as well have put on some ice skates and skated over. Next time.

Anyway, armed with matching thread and buttons, I sewed this up yesterday. Other than a broken needle when I was trying to topstitch through a bazillion layers of flannel and a small error due to overzealous seam allowance trimming, it went together without a hitch. I put the collar together per Andrea's tutorial, though I think Jen's method also works well. I seem to get better top stitching results with Jen's instructions, and better button placket/collar stand alignment with Andrea's. I also did faux flat felled seams on the armscye and side seams.

The only other construction change I made was to form the hem of the button placket by folding the placket to the shirt right sides together first, sewing across the bottom at the hemline, turning right side out, and then folding the rest of the hem up as usual. It's a little tricky to explain, but it's very similar to Tasia's tutorial here for the Minoru jacket. I prefer this method because I think it reduces bulk at the CF hem, and everything lays nice and flat.

I cut this in a 2, one size down from last time. There is still plenty of ease, which I don't mind for a comfy, casual shirt. Next time I may try folding out the pleat at the CB and adding a couple of fish eye darts for a more fitted version. I also lengthened it by 1.5", since I wanted to wear this with my fake pants - essentially glorified ponte knit leggings, so I feel more comfortable in them when my butt is covered.

My only regret is not cutting the cuffs on the bias, to match the button placket and yoke. Oh well. This shirt will serve me well during this particularly cold winter we've been having. Unfortunately the fabric is sometimes too warm for my overheated NYC apartment, but at least outside I will be nice and toasty.

QUICK FACTS
Fabric: Plaid cotton flannel from Fabric Mart
Pattern: Grainline Archer
Size: 2, lengthened by 1.5"
Mods: Bias-cut placket and yoke.

Anyone else making anything cozy to see you through the winter?

New Look for the New Year

2014-01-07T12:00:00.000-05:00

I spent the morning making some exciting (well, for me!) formatting changes to the blog... The old format is below for reference.

With the assistance of PicMonkey and Paint, plus a little Google-fu, I made some social media icons and also changed a bunch of more boring aesthetic things. Let me know if you stumble upon anything that doesn't work! My next big project is getting all of my projects up on Flickr (I got lazy and started using Picasa) but that sounds sooooo boring.

I'll be back soon with some finished projects, I hope. I have 4-5 things in progress, and seem to be incapable of finishing any of them.

Top 5: Unblogged Projects

2013-12-31T14:30:00.000-05:00

HELLO, WORLD! It's been a while! Life happened, you know? And it's still happening. But I decided new year = new blogging conviction. So here I am. I'm jumping on the Top 5 list bandwagon again, but this time with my Top 5 unblogged projects. I have quite the backlog of projects going, and some of my favorite makes of this year are from the last few months. Unfortunately only I got through 3 photos before I got sick (I'll be celebrating the new year in style with jello and Gatorade) so I can only offer hanger photos for the last two. Here we go...

1. Wanna-be Archer

So I made this top based off of a vintage pattern, when I was being stubborn about buying the Archer shirt pattern. Due to an unfortunate fabric slicing incident when I was trimming the seam allowances with my rotary cutter, it is admittedly a tiny bit more fitted than I had envisioned and consequently gapes a tiny bit at the front. I wore it a lot in the late summer though, and the rayon is so soft and comfy. I used leftover challis for the fronts from this dress, and solid black rayon for the yoke, back, and buttonband. The pearl snaps were a nightmare to put in, but I finally got them to stick and haven't had any trouble since.

2. Floral Explosion Archer

Then I gave in and bought the Archer pattern, and made this shirt from a cotton floral. The cotton is a little stiffer than I would prefer for a shirt with this much ease - I felt a little lost in it when I first made it up, and decided to cinch it at the CB with loops and a couple of buttons. I don't love how this makes the back fall, but it does improve the appearance from the front. This isn't a garment I love on it's own - a little too much small floral for my liking. I do wear it a fair amount layered under sweaters though, and enjoy the floral in smaller doses. And I know I need to make more Archers in drapey fabric, a la Andrea, because that's more up my alley. I may also try cutting a 2 instead of a 4. I think I was so ecstatic to see my bust AND waist in the same size column that I just went for it.

3. Bomb Girls Shirt Dress

I made this dress way back in June. It began its life as a Saltspring dress from Sewaholic, but the top was a little too voluminous for my liking. So, I hacked off the skirt and made up a new bodice based on Simplicity 4171, nipping the pattern in at the waist. The fabric is rayon with a crepe-like texture (which I suspect contributed to the extra-voluminous Saltspring bodice). I love the vintage-y look of this dress, and that it works well with tights in fall or without in summer. It contains all of my favorite things - a slightly full skirt, fitted waist, side seam pockets, metal buttons, a collar, cute sleeves, and rayon!

4. Floral Fields Shirt Dress

Another shirt dress, and more rayon! I used Simplicity 2403, with a gathered rectangle for the skirt and the sleeves from Colette Laurel. This one also got a ton of wear, though it is not without its issues. The waist is a tiny bit big, and the buttons are unevenly spaced. I always forget if the buttonhole ends up below where you start or above, and I got it wrong here. The rayon was too lightweight to rip out the stitches, so I left it. The floral fabric, which I love because I can wear any color of tights with this dress, is not in the best shape - it was a remnant from Etsy and in a couple of places I had to fuse a little interfacing to the back where holes were developing. But it's so nice and soft and drapey that I will wear it until it disintegrates.

5. Dogstooth Laurel

Another Colette Laurel, one that saw a lot of wear for work once tights weather rolled around. I added a little fake pocket to the front. The dogstooth fabric is a woven that feels spongey and stretches like a knit. The black is doubleknit. At some point I would love to re-cut the sleeves, because they flare out towards the bottom in a way I don't like (and it shows through when I put a sweater on). A small complaint though, and an easy fix.

All in all it's been a good year. I'm looking forward to new beginnings in 2014, and hopefully lots of sewing! Happy New Year!

FO: My Bombshell!

2013-08-02T20:37:00.000-04:00

My first swimsuit! AND it's still in one piece after two days at the beach. What more could a girl ask for?

I used the Bombshell pattern, which is all over the internet these days - and for good reason. It's a great pattern, very flattering and comfortable. It took a little experimenting to find the best way to sew the seams using my machine - the pattern calls for a zigzag to sew the side and back seams, but it didn't work well for me and I ended up using an overedge stitch instead.

I made View B, the only change being to cut across the top of the halter lining to allow me to slip the cups in. All of my purchased swimsuits have removable cups, and I like this because it means I don't have to buy new ones for every suit. Next time I may do a full lining layer and then add a second partial one, so that the cups sit between the two.

Sewing this suit gave me the swimsuit sewing bug. They're such a good, quick project. I hardly ever make it to the beach and have absolutely no reason to make another suit, but I really want a two-piece Bombshell! I have a ton of fabric left too, so why not?

QUICK FACTS:
Fabric: Lining and fabric from Spandex House/Spandex World (I bought one at each and can't remember which was which.)
Pattern: Bombshell by Closet Case Files

FO: Chantilly Numero Dos

2013-07-14T18:49:00.001-04:00

Whoops... guess I disappeared for a little bit. Blogging is one of the few things in life that you don't have to do if you don't feel like it, and to be honest I just didn't feel like it! I'm back on the wagon now though. And while I wasn't blogging for the last few weeks, I did sew lots!

Sorry, these photos are a little dark...

To say this dress was a challenge would be an understatement. To start, I had just over 2 yards of this 54" wide fabric, a good chunk less than what's called for. I've generally found Colette's yardage generous, so I laid it out to see what I could do. I was quite pleased to find that I could make everything fit comfortably, despite the directional print and my efforts to make everything symmetrical. So I cut everything out, interfaced, blah blah, and then noticed two scraps of paper on the floor behind my table. Pattern pieces I had forgotten about, of course. Lovely. I juuuuust barely made it work with the leftover bits of fabric, but had to add a seam at the CB of the neckline. Fortunately the print hides it well.

Then I was working on the side seams, and could not for the life of me figure out which side the zip was supposed to go on. First I did the wrong side on the lining, right side on the shell, then I ripped out the shell and realized I should have ripped out the lining, and it went on and on and on. I must have gone through every possible combination at least 3 times.

Then my sewing machine broke! The dress sat halfway done for weeks, until my new machine came and I could finally finish it up.

My first Chantilly is one of my favorite me-mades, so it's hard to love this one as much. Poofy dresses like this, as fun as they are to wear, spend a lot of time languishing in my closet since they would not fly at work. This one will go into the weekend rotation though; the lightweight cotton makes it a great comfy summer dress.

QUICK FACTS
Fabric: Cotton voile print from Fabric.com, cotton voile lining from P&S Fabrics (my go-to for cheap white cotton voile in NYC).
Pattern: Colette Chantilly

I can sew again!

2013-06-16T22:42:00.000-04:00

After two and a half very long weeks, I finally have a working sewing machine! To refresh your memory, the new-ish refurbished Janome I had bought a little under two years ago died at the end of May. After reading all of your advice on my plea for help post, as well as a lot of other advice around the internet, I settled on finding an old but reliable machine on eBay. I bought the first one (yes, the first one) about 10 days ago.

Image Source (NOT who I tried to buy from...)

It was a Viking Husqvarna 6440. It was also, as it turns out, not quite in "excellent working/like new condition" as described. I'm sure it had its fair share of problems before it shipped, and the really terrible packing job didn't help. Scrunched up plastic bags + one layer of bubble wrap + 2 old blankets does not equal safe packing! Cracked case, the cam was stuck, stitch width knob nearly impossible to turn, and, the real kicker, it only worked in reverse. Internet research said the mechanical issues can usually be fixed at home with lots of patience and work or in a shop for lots of money, neither one of which was appealing. So, I returned it. Because of the description/packing issues (and a 14 day return policy anyway), the seller didn't argue.

On Wednesday I went back on the hunt and picked out a second machine. This time, I was careful to check the feedback. While the first seller I purchased from had 100% positive feedback, what he did not have was feedback on any sewing machines he had sold. The next seller I purchased from had sold multiple machines in the last month, all with good reviews.

The second (and - fingers crossed - final) machine, a Kenmore 158.19411, came on Friday. I love it! The machines in this series have a reputation for being workhorses, and this definitely fits that description. It's solid, all metal, and feels like you could drop it and damage the floor before hurting the machine (not that I'm going to try that). It handles multiple layers with ease, has all the basic stitch functions I need, and came with a buttonholer attachment that makes the most gorgeous buttonholes. We're still getting acquainted, but I think this will be a long term relationship!

This forced break from sewing taught me one thing: I NEED TO SEW. I was not a happy person the past few weeks. I'll be back soon with some new FOs!

Advice Needed: Machine Woes

2013-05-28T19:04:00.000-04:00

Image from overstock.com

So my sewing machine started making some pretty ugly noises yesterday, not running properly, very slow, grinding sounds, etc. It's a Janome 11590 aka Kenmore 16231, and I bought it refurbished from Ebay almost 2 years ago. I know that's not the best way to go with a machine, but I did do my homework on the model, and I will admit to being drawn to a modern machine, having learned on a 1970s Singer. Turning a knob for different stitches was so exciting! Plus the price was right.
Anywho, reviews generally on this machine are pretty good. I liked it until it stopped working. My problem is in the numbers:

Cost to fix, per the repair guy: $105 prepaid or $130 to pay after the repair. Seems to be motor issues, other small part problems.
Cost I paid for the machine: $140
Cost of extra feet, accessories I've purchased: $50

My options, as I see them and given my non-rich status:

Pay for the repair. I've put money into the accessories, and there's a good chance the machine won't have any issues for a while after this. The new model of this machine is $300.
Look for a reconditioned vintage machine, built to last. (Any recommendations for places to look, online or in NYC? Best models for this?)
Spend $150 on a different new/refurbished machine, preferably Janome so that I don't need to buy a new walking foot, etc. I hate feeling like such a "consumer" getting rid of something that can be fixed and buying something new again... but I also hate the idea of spending almost as much as I paid for the machine to get it fixed!
Make an investment (as much as my wallet allows, which is not much) and spend $200-$250 on a new machine with extra features, better build. There aren't any features I can think of that I would like to have, except for more buttonhole options. But a more reliable machine would be good.

What would you do? If you think my current machine isn't worth repairing, do you have any ideas for where to look for a new one, or what model to look for? Someone tell me what to doooooo! Please and thank you.

FO: I Heart Bows Blouse

2013-05-20T17:00:00.000-04:00

A bow and hundreds of tiny hearts... how can you go wrong?

This was a very quick make, based off of New Look 6107 and inspired by the many loose-fitting, floaty blouses I've seen in the blogosphere lately. I had always intended to use this fabric and pattern together, but had planned on a more fitted silhouette. I don't know why, because it would have worked against the flowy fabric.

I've made a shirt using this pattern before. This time, I omitted the darts, added a tiny bit of extra width at the hips, added gathers to the CB, and added about two inches in length. I didn't want to deal with the button-down front, since it uses a facing that I knew would show through the slightly sheer fabric, so I changed it to a center front seam. This allowed me to use the burrito method (from Jalie 2921) to attach the neck tie. I love the clean finish it gives. I used a similar burrito method on the yoke as well. With that, the french seams, the bias tape at the center of the neckline, and the bias tape finished armholes, the inside is almost as pretty as the outside.

Outside on the left, inside on the right! So pretty!

There wasn't enough fabric for long sleeves, only short ones, and I didn't think that would work with the shape of the top so I left it sleeveless. It turns out I have very few sleeveless shirts in my closet, so it's actually a nice change. Plus there's no fiddling to get a cardigan on over it.

Admittedly this is the ~~fourth~~ ~~fifth~~ sixth (oops...) bow neck item in my wardrobe. BUT, the silhouette of the shirt is completely different from anything else I have, bow or not. And, well, I like neck bows. Sue me.

QUICK FACTS
Pattern: New Look 6107
Fabric: "Silk" (I'm skeptical...) from Chic Fabrics - 1.5 yards
Modifications: Lengthened by 2", wider & longer neck tie, omitted darts, sleeveless. Bias tape finished at the CF. Neck tie and yoke attached using the burrito method.

MMM Update: Days 8-18

2013-05-19T17:49:00.002-04:00

I'm awfully far behind! My last MMM update was for Day 7, and here we are at Day 19. I've still been rather disorganized about the photos, as evidenced by the unaccounted for Day 8, the out-of-order Day 9, and a couple of nighttime tired shots.

Day 9: Minoru Jacket, LOFT pants, a shirt I don't remember.

Day 10: SPRING! blouse & the bottom of what was formerly this dress. I hacked off the top, it will get much more wear as a simple skirt.

Day 11: Upcycled dress I never blogged about (reconstructed using Simplicity 2444), and Gap cardigan. I really love this outfit.

Day 12: Denim Trousers, H&M shirt, Old Navy cardigan.

Day 13: Skipped.

Day 14: Jalie 2921 top, H&M cardigan, LOFT pants.

Day 15: Chiffon dress, Target cardigan.

Day 16: Azul y Verde dress, Gap cardigan.

Day 17: Artsy Plaid dress, Gap cardigan.

Day 18: Almost Goldilocks dress.

So far, MMM has been much easier than last year, which I take as a sign that in the last year I have made garments that fit my needs well. In my original pledge, I said that I would style something differently than I have in the past each week. I guess that technically I have done that, but honestly it's been wearing a different colored cardigan with a dress, which isn't really what I had in mind. What I've discovered is that I like the way I dress and I don't really feel the need to push the style boundaries, if that makes sense. Plus all I really own is cardigans, so it's hard to use my own wardrobe to style things in a way I normally wouldn't.
Instead of trying to push the style envelope in a way that doesn't really work for me, I'm trying to not repeat any outfits for the month. So far, so good.
How is your MMM going?

My Loud Linen Laurel up for Readers' Choice!

2013-05-15T08:02:00.002-04:00

What a great way to start my day! Colette Patterns announced the 20 Laurel dresses up for the Readers' Choice Award in their contest, and my Loud Linen Laurel is one of them. There are a bunch of amazing dresses up for the prize, and many, many others in the Flickr Group.

Voting ends on Friday, May 17th at midnight PST - go vote for your favorites!

FO: Artsy Plaid Dress

2013-05-08T20:18:00.001-04:00

This dress was part of my winter sewing plans, and I do not know why it took me so long to sew it up! I knew it would fill a huge gap in my wardrobe, and it didn't disappoint. Since it's black and white it goes with almost all of my cardigans and shoes, but the print keeps it interesting.

I used McCall 6507, a pattern I used once before to make a peplum top. I wear that top almost once a week, and I know this dress will see at least that much wear. They are both fantastic for workdays - office appropriate with a sweater, but not too stuffy for an outing after work.

I raised the CB by 1" like last time, and also lengthened the bodice by 1/2". The waist seam is drafted to sit a little high (intentionally) but I prefer dresses at my natural waist - more flattering, and a belt doesn't slip all over. Oddly I cut the same size as last time (a 10), but had to take it in two inches at the center back. I guess next time I'll cut a 6 or 8? I left off the skirt overlay - a little too fussy for me. I added a skirt lining, to provide a little more oomph, and also to make it an all-weather dress. Now I can wear it with tights in cooler weather.

Here's how I wore it for MMM Day 7:

Expect to see this one a few more times for Me-Made-May!

QUICK FACTS

Fabric: Rayon challis (haha... must be over half of my me-made wardrobe...) from Fabric Mart and rayon lining from Mood (I think?)

Pattern: McCall 6507

Modifications: raised CB scoop for coverage, lengthened bodice by 1/2", added skirt lining, left off overlay.

MMM Days 1-6

2013-05-08T07:52:00.005-04:00

And so it begins.

Day 1:

New Look 6107 skirt with H&M top & Gap cardigan.

Day 2:

I took a photo, I know I did. I just can't find it. Sigh. I wore my New Look 6107 blouse with H&M skirt & Gap cardigan.

Day 3:

Colette Clovers, Sewaholic Minoru and a Loft sweater.

Day 4:

Colette Clovers, Old Navy sweater.

Day 5:

Agatha Cardigan and dress from Macy's.

Day 6:

I did wear me-mades yesterday. Two, in fact - my first Laurel and my Aidez cardigan. I went to work, was going to take a photo when I got home, then completely forgot and put on my pajamas. I remembered a few minutes later, but it's really hard to change out of pajamas, you know? So you'll have to trust me on this one.

So clearly I need to get myself organized. Getting dressed hasn't been as difficult as I anticipated, but apparently keeping track of taking photos is...
Day 7 and a new FO coming tomorrow! Stay tuned.

FO: Sweet as Honey Laurel

2013-04-30T21:42:00.000-04:00

This is the last Laurel I made for the contest, and it was a doozy! Thankfully it was all worth it, and it is definitely my favorite. I did the whole thing in one weekend, including stenciling the fabric, and finished at 11:15pm on Sunday.

I knew that I wanted to do something with fabric paint for a Laurel, but it took a while to come up with something I loved. I knew I wanted something special, something i wouldn't be able to buy. Eventually I settled on these bees and honeycombs, in gold Jacquard Lumiere on seafoam green/blue voile.

I cut a ton of hexagons from cardstock and taped them in groups on the fabric, then used a stiff brush (the key, I think, to fairly clean lines) to apply the paint. I also cut a couple of bee outlines. I love them!

Because the voile was super sheer, I had to underline in white cotton (to keep the color true) and add a lining to make things completely opaque. The extra steps were annoying, but I really love the bright pink lining with the seafoam (even though no one will see it together but me!).

Fit-wise and length-wise this is somewhere in between my first Laurel and the slimmed down linen version. I put an invisible zipper in the center back, as the pattern calls for. I also slimmed down the sleeves, since setting the sleeves in with this pattern has been SO HARD to do without puckering. To do this, I took a vertical tuck out of the center of the sleeve pattern piece, eliminating about 3/4". It made a huge difference, and I prefer this slimmed down (and pucker-free) look.

I had a lot of fun creating dresses for the Laurel contest, but I'm definitely ready for a different pattern! I'm pretty happy with how everything came out though; this pattern is a really great canvas for all sorts of different things.

QUICK FACTS
Fabric: Cotton voile from Grey's Fabrics (their Etsy store), white cotton from P&S Fabrics on Broadway, pink rayon lining from Mood. I squeezed the dress out of 1 yard of each; if you wear a 0-2 in this pattern, it's possible!
Pattern: Colette Laurel
Modifications: Slimmed down in the waist and hips, slimmed down and shortened sleeve. Underlined & lined.

FO: Loud Linen Laurel

2013-04-30T08:00:00.000-04:00

Here's Laurel #3!

A few weeks ago, I went to the Garment District in search of navy and coral linen for a color blocked Laurel. I went to Gray Line Linen, but sadly they did not have the salmon/coral I was looking for. I ended up with what I thought was a berry pink. Well, turns out that in normal light it is a dark but very hot pink. Oh well! I don't mind it now; this dress is completely different from anything in my wardrobe, so it's refreshing.

I was inspired by this dress:

image source

I included the zip in this version because I slimmed down the dress a little at the waist and hips, and I knew I wouldn't be able to pull it on. The dress is underlined in rayon lining (what else?) because I've heard this prevents the linen from turning into a huge, wrinkled mess.

To create the color blocking I cut 2 inches from the center of the front pattern piece, cut a 4" strip from the pink linen, and put them together with 1/2" seam allowance. There are pockets hidden in the color blocking at the hips, like with the inspiration dress. I also drafted a reverse facing piece for the front and back, dipping the neckline down a little in the front, and narrowing the shoulders.

This dress is very short! Not indecently so, but definitely shorter than what I'm used to. I think it works with the silhouette, but there is no way I can wear this to the office. It will be good for hot summer days though, if those ever arrive in Brooklyn.

QUICK LINKS

Fabric: Linen from Gray Line Linen, rayon lining from Mood

Pattern: Colette Laurel

Modifications: Color-blocked & pockets!

Laurel #2: Spot On LBD

2013-04-29T21:13:00.002-04:00

Ready for a Laurel mini-marathon? I have two more to show you after this, for 4 total. Whew!

For this dress I was inspired by a drawing of a dress in a banner on the Modcloth website:

I cut out the step shapes from the front dress piece, put on a facing, and then put the sheer dot behind that. Then I hand stitched to the facing, very close to the seam along the cut out edge. The stitches are invisible from the outside, but the corners are very well secured. I also incorporated a lining, since the black rayon challis is very thin. The neckline is trimmed with bias tape from the black rayon.

I like this dress, but it's probably my least favorite of the Laurels I've made. The fit feels looser than my last one, even though it isn't. It's a little bit fancy for everyday. I also think I need to re-do the sleeves; they didn't set in as well as I would have liked. But, it is a nice LBD, and is especially fun with colorful tights.

QUICK FACTS

Fabric: Black rayon challis from Fabric.com, sheer dot from Fabric Mart, rayon lining from Mood

Pattern: Colette Laurel

Modifications: Added sheer dot cut-outs

Me-Made-May 2013!

2013-04-16T20:45:00.001-04:00

Zoe announced Me-Made-May 2013 a week ago, and it took me a few days to decide on my pledge for this year. Last year I pledged to wear at least one me-made item per day, and I believe there was only one day when I failed to do so. This year is a little different though, mostly because the office where I work now is a little more conservative. Several of the items in heavy circulation last MMM are no longer wearable for work days. So, I've modified my pledge accordingly:

'I, Mika of Savory Stitches, sign up as a participant of Me-Made-May '13. I endeavor to wear a minimum of one handmade garment six days per week for the duration of May 2013. One day per week I pledge to style the item in a way I have not before.'

I left myself with one day off per week, for those days when going to work feels like climbing Mt. Everest. I added the styling piece to keep the pledge challenging, in the spirit of MMM. Hopefully it will inspire some new combinations to make old things feel new.

Are you participating in MMM? How did you decide on your pledge?

FO: Laurel, Take 1

2013-04-13T17:58:00.000-04:00

I am Laurel-obsessed. I have a list of 10+ variations I want to make at some point, and spent one evening after work last week playing with my croquis in GIMP to visualize my top choices. I finished this one last weekend, am working on a second now, and am hoping to make up a third before the contest ends. Worst that happens is I have three awesome new dresses. And the best possibility? Well, have you seen those prizes?!

When I first got this fabric I knew I wanted to make a shift dress, using the striped border and letting the print speak for itself. Fast forward to a couple months later, and Colette releases the Laurel, so naturally I had to have it. I did muslin this (as a top), and made a few modifications: bust darts shifted down 3/4", shoulder slope reduced to deal with neckline gaping, and armhole shape altered to deal with pulling across the front. In the end I cut a 2 bust, 0 waist and hips, and slimmed things down a bit when I used my fashion fabric, taking it in about 1" in the waist and hips. I left out the zip and can just barely pull it on. I didn't want to mess with a zipper in this fabric, and you only put on and take off a dress once per day, so I don't mind the bit of wriggling it requires. A big surprise for me was how well the sleeves fit, other than a little tightness across the front - I can move my arms!

Since the rayon challis I used is so lightweight, I opted to fully line the dress. The fabric has a fair amount of mechanical stretch lengthwise along the dress, so underlining made me nervous - I was afraid the challis might bag out a little, the lining wouldn't, and then the fabric would be pooling all over.

So I cut a second dress (minus the sleeves) in rayon lining, and sewed the two right sides together at the neckline, understitched, and then flipped it right side out and attached the sleeves. The dress feels more substantial now without feeling bulky, and this way I can wear it without my tights sticking. I did a blind hem by hand - annoying, but effective and more invisible than my machine blind hem.

This is a new silhouette for me, and I am a complete convert. Comfy, not overly boxy, and looks great with tights and heels or boots.

Anyone else have a Laurel in the works?

QUICK FACTS:
Fabric: Rayon challis from fabric.com, lining from Mood.
Pattern: Colette Laurel
Modifications: Altered bust darts, armholes, shoulders for fit. Added a lining.

FO: Denim Trousers

2013-03-31T09:15:00.005-04:00

I made my first muslin for these pants last April. LAST APRIL!!! The fit was awful; ironically, the pattern is Simplicity 2700 Amazing Fit. I've been fighting with them ever since, making a muslin, altering it, transferring the pattern, making another muslin, being disgusted with the fit, and putting it down for a month. Rinse and repeat 10 times. 10 freaking muslins. And within those, countless ripping and re-sewing of seams. Each muslin probably had 6-7 different crotch curves.

The truth is, I have no clue what I'm doing when it comes to pants fitting. There is no real method to my fitting madness - I pinch things out here, let them out there, trying to let the fabric tell me what to do. I google the wrinkle issues until I see someone with a similar problem, and then try to make similar alterations. My biggest struggle is always wrinkles below my butt. I went through multiple fisheye darts, and finally got to the point where I was relatively pleased (and out of muslin). I can still spot some minor fit issues, but nothing that bothers me.

I added welt pockets (my best yet, I'm in love with these) and front slash pockets. The fabric has a little stretch to it and I've had issues with gaping on my other pants pockets, so I cut the welts on the crosswise grain (no stretch) and that did the trick. The front pockets are stabilized with twill tape in the seam, and the pocket bag extended to the fly for stability as well.

Given my pants-growing issues, I tried something new with these. I came across this image on Pinterest from Sandra Betzina a few weeks ago:

Essentially you use an iron to mimic the stretching effect of body heat, then re-cut the pattern piece to the original dimensions. I haven't worn my pants for a full day yet, but so far it seems to have helped.

All in all, I'm exceedingly proud of these pants and will probably live in them on the weekends. And I really cannot express how happy I am that I don't have to muslin any more pants for a long, long time. With these done and my Clovers fitting fairly well, I have solid starting points for almost any pants I would want to make.

QUICK FACTS
Fabric: Stretch denim from Metro Textiles
Pattern: Simplicity 2700
Modifications: Added pockets, shortened waistband, altered for desired fit.

FO: Cranberry Beignet (Skirt, not food).

2013-03-19T21:50:00.001-04:00

Well, so much for more consistent posting! Life is currently a crazy mix of work, school, homework and pesky things like grocery shopping. I'm going to stop feeling guilty about not posting though, since, well, what's the point?

I made my first Beignet out of corduroy, and whenever I wear it I am reminded that the fit is not quite right. A little bit over-fitted, after it first came out a little bit too big. Still wearable, I'm sure no non-sewist would notice, but the second time around I was determined to do better. This wool version is exactly what I wanted. It was my first time working with a lightweight wool, and I may now be a wool convert. It pressed so nicely! It took a fair amount of restraint to leave the ease in this garment, but I think it looks better for it.

I cut a 4 (same as last time), and nipped it in by about 1/3" at each back seam, tapering to nothing at the waist. The overlap in the front is a little bit more than what is called for in the pattern, which was intentional on my part to make space for the bigger buttons that I used. I think though that if I use this pattern again with smaller buttons, I'll try cutting a 0/2 combo instead of a 4.

It's lined in rayon bemberg, which did not go in quite as smoothly as I would have liked. I ended up putting in two pleats in the lining to make up for things not easing in properly, but I really don't care that much. (Aaand I just realized I did not take any photos of the lining, so you will just have to imagine a pretty, berry pink, not expertly inserted lining on the inside of this skirt.)

I opted to skip the fabric belt, but I did include the belt loops this time around. Because the fit is a teensy bit looser than last time, I think the belt loops will help to keep the belt (and therefore the skirt) where it's supposed to be.

It's nice to have a winter-appropriate, special-feeling garment for my wardrobe. I am so ready for spring to get here, but this skirt will make the winter days a little brighter.

QUICK FACTS:
Fabric: Wool tricotine from Fabric Mart & rayon lining from Mood
Pattern: Colette Beignet

Man Shirt: McCall 6044

2013-02-27T20:13:00.000-05:00

This shirt was my boyfriend's Valentine's Day gift, and I miraculously only finished it three days late. He loves it!
I used a stretch shirting from Gorgeous Fabrics, so it's extra comfy. I did a quick muslin to check fit, and ended up cutting a M, then taking it in a bit around the waist and hips since he likes a slim cut. The fit isn't perfect (and neither is the construction), but it's pretty good for a first effort.

I made a few improvements over the original pattern inspired by Lisa at Notes From a Mad Housewife: I changed the sleeves to be one piece instead of two, and added a sleeve placket. I drafted a straight yoke and used the burrito method to attach it. I also flat-felled the seams, which is certainly against my naturally lazy nature. Must be true love if I'm willing to flat-fell seams!

The only problem with this shirt? Now he wants more...

QUICK FACTS
Pattern: McCall's 6044
Fabric: Stretch shirting from Gorgeous Fabrics
Modifications: Added sleeve placket, straight yoke with burrito method, one-piece sleeve.

Foodie Friday: Mason Jar Magic (plus the Giveaway Winner)

2013-02-23T00:59:00.001-05:00

I can't believe it's been nearly a week since my last post. Since my class started again, my weekdays are consumed by a cycle of work, gym, class, homework, and sleep. I'm going to try to be a better blogger than I was when I repeatedly disappeared for weeks at a time in the fall, but no promises! Maybe if I start writing my blog posts in Spanish then it will count as studying?
Aaanyway... back to Foodie Friday. Not a recipe, but my new favorite kitchen discovery: Mason jars for the blender!

No more cleaning the big blender jar and a glass! No more extra smoothie because I couldn't figure out the right portion! And I get to drink my smoothie out of a jar, which just feels cooler. All you need is a blender with a standard, detachable blade & corresponding ring (the black plastic piece), plus a regular mason jar (not the wide-mouth one). I hear this set up works for making salsa too, which I am definitely going to try soon! And maybe dips?

Now, just to round out this mish-mash of a post, the winner of a new rotary cutter is... fishgirl182! Thuy, look for an email from me!

It's THE WEEKEND!!! (Giveaway Included!)

2013-02-16T08:52:00.004-05:00

No Foodie Friday today... though I am in the middle of making enchiladas.
Because it's Saturday, it's a three day weekend, I made it through this crazy week (going to work and school is hard!!), AND my birthday is today, I thought I would do a little giveaway.

My rotary cutter definitely tops my list of must-have sewing tools. I know they aren't for everyone, but having one (and a big cutting mat) has without a doubt made me more accurate when cutting fabric. It's also faster and more fun than scissors. I ended up with two new ones for Christmas, so I thought I would spread the rotary cutter love and give one away.
To enter, just leave a comment and tell me something (anything!) about your week. Make sure to leave your email address if it is not posted on your blog or blogger profile. I'll ship anywhere.
Happy Weekend!!

Edited to Add: Giveaway ends Wednesday at 11:59PM EST!