Fire crews battle the blaze in Assiniboine Forest Thursday, April 26, 2012. But is it bad news for foragers and forest lovers alike?

Smoke billows, flames lick through the understory, and what was moments earlier familiar and safe is vaporized, changed, blackened.

The recent, if brief, blaze in Assiniboine Forest on Thursday, April 26 brought the spectre of forest fires dangerously close to home.

It’s natural to react with fear. We’ve been taught that forest fires are agents of destruction. But the forest sees fire in a different way.

Yes, if forests could feel, fire would be a painful experience, but it is also one that brings renewal and possibilities.

For millenia, they’ve been maintaining healthy forests and grasslands. As much a part of the natural landscape as springtime crocuses, squirrels, and our many lakes.

In fact, the city plans controlled burns within the very park we all feared would be forever scarred, if not destroyed.

The explosion of life following a fire is quite amazing to watch. Pioneer species, such as strawberries, fireweed, aspen, and others, rush in to take advantage of newly available nutrients and sunlight. Animals of all sorts, from voles to bears, follow to take advantage of nature’s new bounty. And many a wise mushroomer will tell you to keep an eye out for morels in the blackened wake of a burn.

Have no fear for the fate of our urban emerald, tarnished, but not lost. We are lucky the damage was not more extensive and owe thanks to the efforts of the folks who contained and put out the fire. And I cannot understate the fact that the act of starting a forest fire unintentionally is not good; deliberately, reprehensible.

But as we head out for another season of Foraging, starting this Saturday, May 5, we here at Savour Winnipeg are cautiously optimistic. I hope you’ll join us. Because when you sign up for one forage, you’ll get access to the entire season of foraging. And you’ll have a front seat to the miracle of re-birth and biodiversity that our little fire brings forth.  I think we’ll find this jewel will actually shine even more brilliantly for the blaze.

What is a fortified wine?

You’ve no doubt heard of them primarily in the names port and sherry.

What’s this fortified business?

Fortified wines are wines that have had a distilled spirit (usually brandy) added to them. The process
originated in the 17th & 18th centuries as a way of preserving wine.

In some cases, the spirits are added after the wine has been made (like sherry) while in other cases, the addition of a spirit is a part of the process for making the wine.

If spirits are added after the wine is made, the resulting drink will be dry, while adding spirits during fermentation results in a sweeter style. Fortified wines are often much stronger than table wines, and deserve to be treated differently.

Instead of treating them like you would a table wine, think of them more as an apertif or an after-dinner drink. These styles of wine originated in the 17th & 18th centuries as a way of preserving wine.

There are a wide range of different fortified wine styes, including port, sherry, Madiera, Marsala, vermouth and others. To keep it simple, I’ll focus on port and sherry which have the widest availability here in Manitoba, and can pair well with some foods.

Port

Port is probably the best-known fortified wine. It’s a sweet wine (with the only exception being some white ports – which I’ve never seen) and usually contains an alcohol level of around 20%.

Technically (and legally) only Portugal produces real “Port,” but the Australians make some beautiful tawny ports that stand up well to the Portuguese style.

Port starts off as red (or rarely white) table wine. But the winemaker stops the fermentation process by adding a distilled spirit to the wine before all the naturally occurring sugars have been converted to alcohol.

This is where Port’s sweetness comes from. As you’ll see, there are a number of different types of port.

Again, for simplicity’s sake, I’ll focus on only five styles, leaving aside rose port, reserve port and the ever-popular “crusted” port (worst name ever).

Vintage

This style is produced entirely from the harvest of one exceptional year and it tends to be the most flavourful of ports – dark, rich and full-bodied.

Unfortunately for port-lovers, it accounts for a small percentage of port production and is the most expensive of all styles.

If you’re a fan, have deep pockets or a lot of patience, as vintage port usually takes ten to fifteen years to reach its peak. Having said all that, a good vintage port really has few equals in the wine world.

Wineries will “declare” a vintage year based on the quality of the wine. This is done the year after the harvest.

Occasionally, a winery will decide that the overall harvest isn’t worthy of a vintage designation, but certain vineyards are, and they’ll bottle what’s known as a “single-quinta” port.

Late Bottled Vintage (LBV)

LBV is similar to vintage in that it is port of a high quality from one year only, although not always a vintage year. Confusing? Not surprising.

The key thing here is that these wines are usually ready to drink right away and often cost a lot less than a good vintage port. They see four to six years of ageing in barrels before being bottled, and can be very tasty.

Ruby

This is a much younger, blended port and is often much lighter than vintage or LBV ports are because it’s aged in stainless steel or concrete instead of wood. This port can be chilled and served as an aperitif or as a digestif.

It is a great introduction to port, but don’t keep the bottles sitting around for too long as ruby port doesn’t lend itself well to long ageing.

Tawny

This is a style of port that has been aged in small wooden casks (a.k.a. pipes). Upon bottling, wine is taken from different pipes to produce a lighter (“tawny”) port.

Without a  specific age designation on the label, tawny ports will be at least two years old. But most are sold after at least ten years of age, and you’ll find ten, twenty, thirty and (rarely) forty year-old tawny port on the shelves.

I find the tastes and aromas to be more delicate than your typical vintage or LBV, with lots of caramel, candied fruit and honey aromas. But they’re still port, and can be quite strong.

Incidentally, a 40-year-old tawny can be one of the greatest bargains in the world of wine if you can find one.

White

Not surprisingly, this style of Port is made from white grapes (hence the name). They tend to be bottled young and unlike other ports, you can find drier styles of white port. At least that’s the rumour; I’ve never come across one.

Try them chilled in the summertime, or use them as a base for cocktails. I was once served a cocktail made with white port, club soda, ice and muddled basil. It was delicious, refreshing and seriously addictive. I wish I still had the exact recipe.

Pairing Port

Port can be a tough match with food, as the strong alcohol and sweetness don’t lend themselves well to your average meal.

I wouldn’t crack open a bottle of LBV to pair with a pizza or steak. Instead, try matching it with an equally strong but contrasting taste.

In my opinion, the oldest vintage ports are probably best on their own, although Stilton and vintage port is a traditional pairing. Walnuts and pears also work well, and some tawnies or other lighter ports can go well with creamier cheeses, such as Brie.

Through years of dedicated research, I’ve found that creamy desserts such as tiramisu or crème brulee can really well with aged tawny port. And for a real treat (purists – please skip the rest of this sentence) try some LBV port the next time you slice up a big chocolate cake. Your teeth may never recover, but you’ll enjoy it.

Sherrry

Sherry can be a real bargain. These wines aren’t as well-known as ports are, and you can still find some extremely well-priced sherries on Manitoba store shelves. Talk to someone in your friendly neighbourhood MLCC or wine store for more advice. You may be surprised by what you find.

Sherry is a fortified wine from the Jerez region of Spain. Unlike Port, it is made from white grapes and the spirit is added after fermentation, making it a drier wine.

The different styles of sherry can be divided into two categories. Oloroso wines are fortified after the fermentation is complete while Finos and Manzanilla gain their distinctive taste though a biological aging process under a layer of yeast called flor.

This yeast (known as flor) grows on the surface of the wine after fermentation, insulating it from air. This allows the yeast to feed off the wine, and allows the sherry to draw its flavour and aromas from the yeast.

The wines are fortified up to 15% alcohol, to allow the flor to grow. Beyond this, the alcohol levels become toxic tothe yeast and it can’t grow.

Manzanilla

A variation of fino made only in the coastal town of Sanlucar de Barrameda. The lightest, palest, and most delicate of all sherries, it often shows off an almost salty tang with lots of acidity.

Chill it very well and pair with fresh shellfish for a treat. You can occasionally find an aged version of Manzanilla called Pasada, which is richer and nutty-tasting.

Fino

Typically, Fino has a bitter almond note. Like Manzanilla, it makes an excellent aperitif or accompaniment to food. Serve chilled and young and try not to keep an open bottle around for more than a day or two.

Amontillado

A fino sherry that has been allowed to age until it loses its flor, resulting in an amber, perfumed nutty wine. Drier and moderately sweet amontillados can be a good apertif, while the sweetest versions are best served after a meal as digestifs.

Oloroso

Sherry aged with direct contact with air producing a darker, richer wine with nutty, raisinlike charactaristics. Some are bottled dry, and make particularly fine matches for richly flavored foods. Like amontillado, oloroso shows best at room temperature.

Cream

A style of sweetened dessert oloroso originating in England. This style was developed for export, and is most often consumed after a meal, or at afternoon tea with your grandmother.

Can Sherry Share the Spotlight with Food?

Let me be honest here, I’m not a huge fan of sherry so I don’t have any real favourites to pair with it. But conventional wisdom suggests that lighter sherries (fino and manzanilla) are best served well-chilled before a meal either on their own or with lighter appetizers. Seafood can be a very good match, as can olives and almonds. Look to your local tapas bar for inspiration.

Richer sherries are usually served after a meal, and there’s a school of thought that suggests pairing creamy desserts (like trifle) with cream sherries.

SavourWinnipeg.com wine editor Alec Stuart has been in and out of the wine industry since 1996 and has spent the last ten years handling wine education for the Kenaston Wine Market. If you have a question for Alec or a suggestion for a future feature, drop us a line.

Set for launch on St. Patrick’s Day, Half Pints Brewing‘s latest creation is called Black Galaxy.

Brewmaster Dave Rudge describes it as a Cascadian Dark Ale/American Black Ale or (less appropriately) Black IPA.

It’s a similar style to their Black Scrapper, which had people lining up out the door and remains among BeerAdvocate.com‘s Top 50 in the World.

It rings in at a modest 6% a/v with around 60 IBU’s of bitterness which means it will send fellow hop heads into orbit. It derives that bitterness from multiple additions of Australian Galaxy hops which were hard to come by, hence the small 50 case run.

“If you closed your eyes and drank this beer, you’d be hard pressed to think it was so dark, but that’s the fun of the style, and as the beer warms, there’s a bit of chewy black malts there, but the hops are in your face for the whole ride,” said Brewmaster Dave.

Starting at 9 am (which means lining up at 6 am, Winnipeggers can buy this brew from Half Pints’ retail store at 550 Roseberry.

Our out of Province friends will be able to access it as well, with Regina’s Beer Brothers receiving two kegs and a few cases destined for Alberta by way of AGLC.

Making pulled pork isn’t a chore. In fact, prep is unbelievably easy, it’s the cooking that takes the time because of the cut of meat used.

That’s why I recommend getting your prep done a day ahead.

The following recipe for slow cooker pulled pork is less a recipe than it is a two-part method.

Nevertheless, you will need some key ingredients:

Ingredients

• 2-4 lb Pork Butt (a shoulder cut)
• Spices (a handful of your favourites)
• Hot Sauce
• Ketchup
• Yellow Mustard
• Cider Vinegar
• Brown Sugar
• Pan drippings

Method

Step 1 – Assemble Dry Rub

The pit masters all have their own, closely guarded recipes. Pull together any spices you like. I usually start with a base of course salt, black pepper, chili powder, cayenne pepper, smoked paprika, and chipotle chili powder. It’s entirely up to you, and that’s part of the fun of cooking without a recipe. Whatever you throw in, aim to end up with about a cup of your dry rub mix.

Step 2 – Prep Your Meat

Most pork butt (actually a shoulder) comes trussed into a roll since it has a hole down the middle where it has been boned out. My advice, lose the strings and break down the cut into two or three roughly even sized pieces.

This has two advantages: It will drastically reduce your cooking time, and it will give you more surface area for your delicious rub and the sear we’re going to put on the meat (simulating bark, or the crust smoked pulled pork is famous for).

If you find there’s a thick fat cap on the cut, you can trim it away, or score a cross hatch pattern into it so it renders a little during the sear. Cross hatching also increases surface area, giving the dry rub some wonderful nooks to stick into.

When you’re finished trimming, place the pork on a sheet pan and give it a little massage of your favourite hot sauce. I like Frank’s Red Hot for this recipe, but contrary to the commercial, I don’t put that shit on everything. It’s just that it’s cheap and plentiful.

This step provides extra flavour and helps the dry rub adhere. Rinse and dry your hands. Now, sprinkle the dry rub liberally over the meat, turning it to coat all sides.

At this stage I recommend sticking the works in the fridge overnight. I don’t cover it as the drying effect of the refrigerator helps the dry rub create that very desirable crust. If it freaks you out, by all means cover your meat or drop it in a Zip-Loc bag.

Step 3 – Cooking

Pre-heat your oven to 500. Oil an old sheet pan and when the oven has come to temperature, pre-heat it to the point where the oil is shimmering. Add you pork and let it reach a dark brown (even bordering on burned).

While the pork sears, prepare your braising liquid. Set your slow cooker on high. Again, this is free-form cooking without a recipe so add any liquid you want. This is an opportunity to add even more flavour. I like to use a can of cola as a base (Coke or Pepsi). You could alternately use beer, or apple cider. Add a few shots of hot sauce and if you have them, a few chipotle chilies in adobo sauce for that smokey heat. You also want some sweetness and molasses adds a nice depth of flavour, but maple syrup is pretty darn good too. Some folks also add liquid smoke at this stage. I’ve used naturally cured bacon to similar effect.

Whatever you add, keep in mind that this braising liquid will become your base for a home-made BBQ sauce. Because it will reduce, any flavour you add here will become more concentrated later.

With your braise prepared and your pork now seared, add everything to the slow cooker, cover and bring to a gentle simmer. Switch to low and let it cook for 4-6 hours. It’s done when the thickest part of the meat is falling apart tender. Test with a couple of forks. If it requires anything more than a little pressure to separate the fibers, you’re not there yet.

Step 4 – Sauce

When the meat is fall-apart tender, remove it to a baking sheet or roasting pan. Anything with moderately high sides and something you don’t mind getting scratched up. Transfer the braising liquid to a medium saucepan and set over medium heat.

You can strain the solids out by pouring through a medium mesh sieve, or use an immersion blender to incorporate. Add 1 cup of ketchup, ½ cup yellow mustard, ½ cup brown sugar, and ¼ cup cider vinegar. Whisk together and simmer until reduced by 1/3. Taste it. Want more sweet? Add sugar. More tart? Add vinegar or mustard. More heat? A dash or two of hot sauce.

Meanwhile, shred that pork. You can use a couple of forks. Just go nuts in there. Or, if it has cooled a little, you can get your hands in there. If you’re squeamish, use gloves. It doesn’t have to be perfect…the different size chunks are part of the fun. If you encounter any slimy hunks of the fat cap, remove them.

When the sauce mixture has reduced and thickened, and you’re happy with the flavour, strain it through a sieve to remove any remaining solids. I recommend pouring it into a jug.

Add sauce to pork, which will re-heat it, and you’re done. Optionally leave it to your guests to sauce their own once they’ve stacked their buns with porky goodness.

Serve with a slice of fresh tomato, or favourite coleslaw mix (more traditional). Alternately, top it with a medley of sautéed red & green peppers and onions.

Pulled pork is a meal unto itself but also goes great with mac n cheese, or cornbread. Because it makes so much, you can feed a large family for relatively little expense. But if you’re flying solo or a small group, leftovers are awesome on pizza with pineapple and peppers, over noodles, as a burger or poutine topping, or easily reheated and served on a bun when you get your next pulled pork craving, which I’m guessing, won’t be long.

Each Tuesday, Savour Winnipeg features a new brew that’s either seasonal or the latest libation to hit the shelves. This week, we’re taking a closer look at 3 Monts.

From the same brewer that brings us Du Moulin, comes 3 Monts, a lager brewed using top fermenting ale yeasts.  Bierre de Garde, or strong beers suitable for keeping, are akin to the Belgian saisons. It’s suggested they were brewed in the more predictable temperatures of winter, so that yeasts didn’t run amok.  Originally a farmhouse style, it’s still a very select category of beers that, due to relatively small production, we don’t tend to see that often in the Manitoba market.

One of the most interesting characteristics of 3 Monts is the closure: a cork with a steel retaining clip. After stripping away the plastic seal, the clip is easily removed by pushing at the base. From there, you’ll need a corkscrew. Yep…a corkscrew.

On the pour, you’ll note this is a pale golden lager with a creamy white, persistent head. Be careful on the pour or you’ll end up with a glass full of foam.

Aromas of pear and straw present on the nose and at first sip you’ll note some citrus, reminiscent of cider, but with a longer finish due to a good deal of residual sweetness. If you’re out to drink the whole 750, it gets a little cloying and left me with that furry tongue feeling.

While there is some bitterness from the hops, it doesn’t cut the sweetness. But for a beer of a sturdy 8.5% ABV, the alcohol is well balanced with the other flavours.

3 Monts

Brewer: Brasserie de Saint Sylvestre
Origin: Capelle, France
ABV: 8.5%
Style: Bierre de Garde
Serving temperature: 8-10ºC
Suggested glass: Chalice or Pilsner
Size: 750ml
Price: $6.42 at select MLCC locations

As usual it has a number of courses of interest to Winnipeg foodies including the ever popular Cooking With Kathy Man Series.

It does seem like there’s a little less going on in the foodie department this year (listed under adult leisure).

Also, I didn’t see an update to the Conservatory series. Led by Chef Karen Peters, these were a guided exploration of Mediterranean influences.

Perhaps it’s because, as  rumor has it, she plans to open her own restaurant, reportedly in the former Chocolate Shop digs downtown. Yaaay Karen!

Registration for the Spring 2012 Leisure Guide begins Wednesday, March 14 at 9 am.

Call the city of Winnipeg’s 311 line to register and make sure you have the 5 digit course number handy (as well as a backup option). These things fill up fast…often the first day of registration.

View/download a course guide at www.Winnipeg.ca or check out Savour Winnipeg’s calendar of food related events around Winnipeg.

I’ve cross-listed all the leisure guide’s foodie related classes there (even ones interspersed throughout the guide).

You’ll also maybe find a few you didn’t even know were happening at other fine food venues across the city like The Food Studio, Centro Caboto, or our fabulous independent wine stores.

Plus, if you use Google Calendar, adding them to your schedule is as easy as a right click.

Quebec is to Canadian Beer what Belgium is to Europe and Unibroue is infamous for its abbey inspired styles.

Dark brown colour, Trois Pistoles pours cloudy with a rich lacy beige foam.

Best served in a chalice style glass, as you approach your first sip you’ll note strong roasted malt flavours, perhaps detecting chocolate, brown rum, and spice.

On the palate it’s slightly sweet, and along with the roasted malt flavours are accents of ripe fruit and dark spices.

Trois Pistoles boasts a long, smooth finish which the brewer likens to an old port. At 9%, like a port, it’s not a beer you can settle in for an evening with, but reserved for special occassions or post prandial.

Trois Pistoles

$5.40 75oml

Select MLCC locations

As a nod to Festival du Voyageur, Randy Reynolds of Beaujena’s Bistro featured this Maple Cream Pie on the menu last February. Now he’s sharing it with Savour Winnipeg’s readers.

“As I recall, Marion Warhaft (for what its worth) described it as ‘sublime,’” says Reynolds.

Ingredients:

Pastry shell:

1 cup flour, pinch of salt
1Tbs powdered sugar
½ cup cold butter cut into 1/2′” cubes
1 egg
1 tsp cold water

Filling:

¼ cup maple syrup
1 1/3 cup full cream
4 egg yolks
1 whole egg
¼ tsp salt
1 tsp nutmeg
1 tsp vanilla extract

Method:

In a food processor, combine flour sugar and salt. Add butter in such a way that each cube is separate. Pulse until butter is incorporated. Add egg and pulse. While continuing to pulse, add enough water to make a lumpy cornmealy texture. Be careful not to add too much water as it will make the pastry crisp rather than flakey. Using your fingers to test, the dough should barely stick together when pressed. Form into a ball, wrap with plastic and refrigerate for 20 minutes.

Using plenty of flour, roll out the dough to about 1/8”, place in a 9 or 10” tart pan. Line the dough with foil so that the edges are covered. Fill the tart shells with beans or pastry beads and bake in the center of a 325 F oven for 25 minutes. Remove from oven. When cool, remove the beans and foil.

In a separate bowl whisk together egg yolks, egg, nutmeg, salt and vanilla. While you’re doing that, put maple syrup in a sauce pan and bring to a slow simmer for 5 minutes to reduce, then add the cream. Slowly whisk egg mixture into syrup and cream mixture which will thicken very quickly. Pour into tart shells and bake in the center of a 300F oven for 50-60 minutes.

Cool on a wire rack. Cut into wedges and serve with a little Chantilly cream.

Bottled in Montreal, Caribou is an authentic Quebec fortified wine said to be of Aboriginal origin. Legend has it, the drink was a mix of Carrbou blood and bush whisky.

To make it more palatable, red wine substituted the blood and brandy and maple syrup later entered the equation. Caribou is now traditional served during winter festivals, and in bygone times rural neighbours were said to welcome their friends with a glass, the preferred beverage for grand occasions, snowshoeing and winter competitions.

A deep ruby pour, Carbou presents aromas of plums, dark cherries, clove, coffee, vanilla and cinnamon. An almost cloying sweetness quickly overwhelms the palate, but the spice carries through to a long finish with a hint of bitterness.  Although it can be served warm as a mulled wine, its flavours are agreeably muted by chilling.

Caribou

Origin: Quebec

Serving: 750ml

ABV: 22.0 %

Price: $19.83 at most MLCCs for a limited time

The first refermented white beer brewed according to Belgian tradition in North America Blanche de Chambly presents pale golden in the glass. Slightly cloudy, it maintains a creamy white head and indicative of the style smells of spice and citrus.

Coriander, and cloves become more apparent after drinking where yeast and orange and lemon flavour prevail.

This medium body, short finish beer is great on hot summer day, or settling in for a slow sipping session with friends.

Blanche de Chambly

Brewer: Unibroue
Origin: Quebec, Canada
ABV: 5.0%
Style: Belgian white ale (witbier)
Serving temperature: 4 º–6 ºC/ 41° to 43°F
Suggested glass: Flute
Serving Size: 750ml
Price: $5.40 at select MLCC locations