Length:

Water: The Colorado River can be seen or heard from almost anywhere on this trail.� However, access to The River is limited to the areas between Tanner Beach and Palisades Creek, and also near the end of the trail at the LCR confluence.� We do not recommend drinking LCR water, even with a filtering device.

Campsites: The entire Beamer Trail lies within the Palisades use area where there is at-large camping.� There are plentiful campsites between Tanner Beach and Palisades Creek.� Between Palisdaes Creek and the LCR confluence there are a handful of spots with just enough room to make camp for a couple people, but these marginal sites will be dry camps.� There is no camping allowed within a quarter mile of the LCR confluence, but there is a small beach camp just outside this restricted area.

Reflections and Attractions: The Beamer Trail is an exciting hike deep within the heart of Grand Canyon.� Exploration opportunities and wildlife viewing abound between Tanner Beach and Palisades Creek.� Depending on the season and River conditions there are also excellent fishing holes here. The LCR confluence is a must-see, just don’t expect to see its famous mineralized blue waters during spring runoff.� Amongst other evidence of early prospector activity, don’t miss the short hike up the LCR to the historical Beamer cabin.

Warnings and musings: Heading south to north the 1st 3 miles of this trail are mostly a walk in the park.� We do not recommend that acrophobics continue from here.� Exposure is always relative to the hiker, but there are sections on this trail that can be intimidating for some, and downright dangerous in windy conditions.� Beyond Palisades Creek, the Beamer trail resembles a junior version of the Tonto Trail, with about 6 miles worth of countless minor drainages to traverse.� Many hikers attempt to make the 12 mile round trip day-hike to the LCR confluence from Palisades but are forced to turn back early from time constraints.� If you plan to try this as a day-hike be ready for a lengthy trek, leave as early as you can, and travel light.

I am accompanied by the Brothers Steiner (hereafter referred to as BS1 and BS2, or as the BSers) and right from the start I can tell I may be spending much of my slower hiking time alone as they speed down the trail.� We begin our trek mid-morning to the frequent serenades of a canyon wren.� BS1 has the canyon wren ringtone and instinctively reaches for his cell phone.

We rest briefly at Stegosaurus Rock and then continue to the Redwall camp for lunch and to cache some water for our return.� BS1 spots a mountain short-horned lizard.� Two hikers on their way out stop to chat and take a break, turns out they are fellow Canyon nuts and four of us graduated from the same high school.

Below the Redwall things start to warm up a little.� It doesn�t matter how many times I descend Tanner, my least favorite section is always the never ending Dox traverse.� It�s just a steep, awkward slope with no shade and no good place to rest, but at least the scenery can�t get any better.

When the trail finally hits Canyon bottom to cross Tanner Wash I just detour down the wash and shortcut my way into camp ahead of the BSers.

The River is quite muddy and we have no luck fishing.� Strong winds make us contemplate moving camp east of the wash to more sheltered sites, but we choose to remain closer to The River.

At some point during the night I realize that inside my rain jacket pocket is part of an old unwrapped forgotten granola bar from some past trip.� I�m half asleep, my food is all packed up safe from varmints, the rain jacket is my pillow, and I don�t want critters poking around my head, so I just set the granola bar aside, by first light it is gone.

Day 2 – Tanner Beach to Palisades Creek:

Awake to an amazing display of sunrise cloud colors.� BS2 discovers that mice have raided some of his food he accidentally left out.� Today is a short hike, sort of a recovery day, so we leisurely pack up camp, chat with some hikers just arriving, then head north on the Beamer Trail.

There is a short climb to negotiate some cliffs immediately upon departing Tanner Beach.� Back on the sandy flats south of Comanche Creek, BS1 spots a striped whipsnake.� We take the low route past the island north of Espejo Creek again, so I still have no idea what the high route is like.

I find the Palisades beach camp I used about 18 months ago but there is one small problem � it�s under water.� That�s a shame it was a nice little beach, but there�s still enough room for camp in the tammies a little further from shore.

We spend some time alternately fishing and hiding in the shade.� Even with all this River silt I�m a little surprised the fishing gods are skunking us, especially considering how great this fishing hole was last time I passed through.

A monstrous commercial motor rig comes barreling down The River.� I�m not sure any of the passengers expected to see a full moon at Palisades during the middle of the day.

Last night I barely needed my sleeping bag.� Tonight is cold and windy, I use my rain fly as another blanket layer for wind shelter.

Day 3 – Palisades Creek to beach camp south of Little Colorado River confluence:

BS1 asks what I�ve been doing to protect my food from critters overnight.� I tell him I just sleep with my arm over it, kind of like sleeping with my old lady at home, except my food bag doesn�t elbow, kick, and steal the covers.

Continuing north on Beamer, cliffs force the trail up onto the Tonto platform.� More River rats float by below us.� After maybe a mile of hiking from Palisades we encounter the section of trail that has earned Beamer something of a bad reputation, at least with some.� Across from Carbon Canyon there is perhaps a 50 meter stretch where the narrow trail skirts dangerously close to towering cliffs.� I know people who hike this like it�s no big deal without any fear of the exposure, but a mistake here could be fatal.� I concentrate on tunnel visioning the trail but it�s hard to pretend there isn�t a deadly drop immediately to my left.

We all make it safe and sound to the next drainage north where the Beamer Trail splits yet again.� We take the high route this time, assuming it avoids further exposure lower down.� The two routes converge after a short distance where the Beamer Trail becomes a poor man�s Tonto Trail, contouring in and out of countless minor drainages.� We stop for a lunch break across from Temple Butte as more River rats float beneath us.

As we finally approach the Little Colorado River confluence yet even more River rats are swarming the waters.� I have never seen this many people (boaters or otherwise) in The Canyon outside of the corridor.

One of the boats is tied up at our beach camp south of the confluence.� Time to stroll over and see what�s going on.� After wading through the academic jargon, I learn many of these boats are teams of scientists surveying and mapping The River bottom.� They even have a little motorboat that is ferrying people and supplies up and down and back and forth all over The River.

Despite all the commotion we make the best of camp and siesta in the shade.� The fishing gods are still pitching a shutout.� I am starting to believe that the trout eradication measures taken by the Park Service to protect the endangered humpback chub are actually working!� Or at least that�s what I�m willing to blame our bad luck on.

Day 4 – Day hike up the Little Colorado River gorge:

We are all happy to be trekking sans heavy packs for our day-hike up the Little Colorado River.� At the confluence there is a stark contrast between the greenish River and muddy brown LCR.� These waters clearly do not mix well.

In under an hour we�re at the Beamer cabin.� This prospector dwelling was built into the base of an overhanging Tapeats cliff over a hundred years ago.� The cabin is still in great shape with some interesting relics inside, but there�s also pack rat shit everywhere so we don�t linger long.� These ledges were certainly occupied by Anasazi as well, but the artifacts have been mostly picked clean.

We make it another few miles further up the LCR gorge then stop for a snack.� Before continuing I start doing the math in my head.� It�s midday, hot, my foot is hurting some, and if I want to make it all the way to our intended destination and back to camp I will have to hike almost 7 miles on 1 quart of water (I would prefer to only drink LCR water as a last resort).

With some regret I decide to call it a day here while the BSers continue ahead.� They eventually cross the LCR and make it to our goal for the day-hike.� On their return BS2 takes a nasty spill and gets some fairly severe cuts on his leg.

On my way back I try staying closer to the LCR, which leads to some bushwacking here and there, eventually stumbling upon some more scientific equipment I�m assuming is used for humpback chub research.� Back at the confluence I encounter a hiking couple looking for a way to cross the LCR and The River.� They are doing Grandview to Nankoweap, an ambitious hike for most, but even more impressive when I learn they are on about week 7 of their through hike along the Arizona Trail!� What an adventure.

Back in camp the fishing gods continue their shutout, in fact at this point they are working on a no-hitter.

Day 5 – Beach camp south of Little Colorado River confluence to Comanche Creek:

For a couple days now BS1 has been teasing us that he will hitchhike on the 1^st boat back to Palisades.� Only minutes after we ascend from our beach camp more River rats float by, they appear to have plenty of room for all of us.� Too late now.

Cloudy skies bless the hike back down Beamer, a welcome relief from some hot temps of the last 2 days.� We opt for the high route again where the trail splits.� Interestingly, there is a small rock barricade discouraging southerly travel on the low route, but there was/is no such barricade at the trail split coming from the opposite way.

The BSers have waited for me back at the exposed section of trail.� They proceed as a terrible wind whips across the exposed trail, forcing the BSers to lean down towards the uphill �safe� side of the trail.� The wind relents briefly, BSers continue around the bend out of sight, then yet another brutal gust of April wind threatens our balance.� Within seconds the BSers are hustling back towards me.� Apparently BS1 asked BS2 how things were looking, the wind came blasting through again, and he said �we need to turn around�now.�

In anticipation of any wind today, I had eyeballed a route to bypass this tricky section back on day 3, so that�s what we decide to do.� The bypass is easy and safe, we simply go up and over the ridge immediately east of the exposed section.� Parts of this bypass route are cairned so we obviously aren�t the first to avoid that sketchy stretch.

We stop at Palisades to retrieve a food cache and have lunch, then continue down to the Comanche Creek area where we find a nice beach camp.� A storm has been following and threatening us all day, so BS2 sets up his tent.� I only have my rainfly and am quite thankful he had extra stakes, the fly would just not hold up in the wind without being anchored.

Figuring it�s our last chance we try our luck fishing again.� Within minutes it is raining steadily.� So I guess it�s official, the fishing gods went from shutout to no-hitter to pitching a perfect game.

The science boaters are all over the place again.� The motorboat cruises up River then slows and beckons us over to shore.� I walk down and he just wants to apologize for any inconvenience they�ve been imposing on our wilderness experience.� I tell him it�s no problem, then he asks if there�s anything we need.� This is my chance.� I tell him if he can scare up a few cold beers that would be great.� He says he�ll be passing by the kitchen and he�ll see what he can do, then motors off again.

The wait seems forever and of course it starts raining harder.� BS2 jumps in his tent to stay dry, I would do the same but for my fear of missing the beer boat.� Standing there drenched I get to thinking.� Why on Earth did I say �cold� beer?� At this point we could care less what temperature the beer is as long as we have some.

I hear a faint motor through the rain.� My heart skips a beat.� The beer boat is returning.� BS1 asks me to check if the boater will take out his backpacking detritus so I grab his trash bag and hustle down to the boat.� This is a historical Yermo moment.� I am handing a River rat a bag of trash and in return he hands me a bag of beers!� I know of no other place where such a transaction would be considered normal.

We enjoy our frothy beverages with a hearty cheers.� Warm PBR never tasted better.� The rain eventually chases us back to our shelters, where I cook up a meal and finish the beer.� The storm remains fairly intense throughout most of the night.

Day 6 – Comanche Creek to upper Tanner Canyon:

At first light I peek my head out the rainfly, the sky is mostly clear.� A relief for sure, I hate packing up in the rain.� Also, last night we discussed hiking all the way out today if it was still stormy, but we seem to have scored one more night in The Canyon.

Apparently I fared the driest.� The BSers squeezed into that little tent, which proved to be something far less than waterproof, and awoke drenched.� Any sleep they did get was in puddles of water.

We give the sun a chance to dry us out some and then hit the trail back to Tanner Beach to pump plenty of water for our dry camp tonight.� It seems some jackass brought their dog down here since we left as there are tracks everywhere.

Before departing we see 2 seagulls (yes, seagulls, I have never seen them in The Canyon before and suspect they are making their way up from the Lake Havasu area?) soaring low over The River.� Heading back up Tanner there has been an explosion of blooming wildflowers since we passed through 5 days ago.

Above the Tapeats boulder field a large group passes by on their way down.� Mostly youngtsers, a few of them seem beat up and perhaps ill prepared (i.e. jeans, behemoth packs, and dog-tired faces).� We skip the Redwall camp, sacrificing those views for more wind shelter in the small bay northeast of Cardenas Butte.

After we get settled and hide out some minor rain sprinkles, a Ranger strolls into camp.� In dozens of trips outside the corridor this is the first time I have ever been checked for permit legitimacy.� We chat for awhile and she tells us a Canadian couple got ticketed at the rim for bringing that dog down.� She also encountered that large group we saw earlier and said they were mostly beat up from the hike and had to change their aggressive itinerary.

I run out of stove fuel exactly after cooking my last dinner, and I would love to take credit for planning on being that lucky.� BS1 decides to try sleeping under a boulder overhang, it only takes a couple pack rat runs across his body to move his sleeping pad up closer to us.

Day 7 – Upper Tanner Canyon to Lipan Point:

On our way out it starts snowing above 75-mile saddle.� This is starting to feel like more than coincidence perhaps, but every time I have ascended Tanner it has been snowing.� Not sure if the BSers were taking it easy on me but the trek out only takes about 2 hours and I�m at the rim right behind them.

To see more photos from this trip click here.

To see more about BS1 and his wanderings through Arizona click here.

To see the trip report for these photos click here.

The Fate of the Powell Expedition Crew

In 1869, Major John Wesley Powell, a civil war veteran who was wounded in battle and had his right arm amputated, led a party of nine men on the first American boating expedition through Grand Canyon on the uncharted waters of the Colorado River.� After nearly 100 days of monster rapids, near death experiences, and starvation rations, the expedition split at Separation Rapids.� Brothers Oramel and Seneca Howland, and William Dunn abandoned the river party; apparently fed up with Powell�s questionable leadership and also unwilling to risk running any more life threatening rapids.� The three men somehow managed to forge a route out of Grand Canyon, only to be reportedly killed by Shivwits Indians.� However, recent evidence unearthed by Grand Canyon historians possibly indicates they were instead murdered by Mormons associated with the infamous Mountain Meadows Massacre of 1857.� The exact fates of the three men may never be known.

Newlywed River Runners Vanish

Newlyweds Glen and Bessie Hyde attempted to boat the Colorado River through Grand Canyon in 1928.� Glen was allegedly driven by a desire for stardom in a bid to guide Bessie through Grand Canyon, thus making her the first woman to accomplish such a feat.� Unfortunately, and in all likelihood, the adventure came to a tragic ending.� After being reported overdue, the boat containing nearly all of their possessions was discovered towards the end of Grand Canyon near Diamond Creek, with no trace of Glen or Bessie.� The two were not outfitted with life jackets and their bodies were never recovered.

The James White Controversy

One of the more controversial unsolved mysteries of Grand Canyon occurred two years before the Powell expedition, in 1867.� A man named James White was found barely alive on a makeshift raft of driftwood near the end of Grand Canyon.� According to White, he had floated about 500 miles of the Colorado River over nearly 3 weeks, escaped an Indian ambush, and while on the river lost a fellow prospector to drowning.� But White�s unprecedented rate of travel and inconsistent description of his surroundings has fueled volumes of skepticism.� Was White actually the first American to float the entire Grand Canyon?� It seems unlikely, but the truth will probably remain a mystery.

Lee’s Lost Gold Mine

John D. Lee was a Mormon pioneer who ran a ferry later named for him at the head of Grand Canyon, one of the few practical Colorado River crossing sites for hundreds of miles.� Brigham Young sent Lee to this desolate outpost for Lee’s involvement in the Mountain Meadows Massacre of 1857 (a crime for which he was later executed).� During his exile in the Grand Canyon region he allegedly discovered large quantities of silver and gold while keeping the location a secret.� Many of The Canyon’s first prospectors and settlers searched for Lee’s Mine, perhaps finding traces of Lee’s presence, but his riches were never rediscovered.

Exodus of the Ancients

Evidence of prehistoric cultures is scattered throughout Grand Canyon and dates back as far as four thousand years (one archeological find suggests their presence as far back as ten thousand years).� The most recent inhabitants are commonly referred to as the Ancestral Puebloan or Anasazi.� Their communities thrived on hunting, gathering, and farming in The Canyon until about 1200 AD when they seemingly vanished.� So why did they disappear and where did they go?� The leading theories are that drought and overpopulation contributed to their departure, and there culture was absorbed into other tribes in the area, such as the Hopi in northeastern Arizona.

Despite having detailed driving directions to the trailhead, we got sort of lost in the darkness last night amidst the FUBAR maze of dirt roads and tracks spreading across the Navajo Nation.� Perhaps an hour passed as we tried several different roads and ended up backtracking every time.� Finally we get close enough to the trailhead to call a halt to our travels and car camp for the night.

I was the only guy to set up my tent last night with no regrets, it was very chilly.� After first light I finally get myself oriented and realize we�re on the hill just south of the trailhead.� No matter, it�s a short stroll down to start the hike.

The top of the descent ravine through the Kaibab and Coconino is cairned and we immediately recognize that our trekking poles will be more of a burden initially, so we secure them to our packs.� The beginning of this route is very steep, even by Canyon standards, and requires some use of hands for minor downclimbs.

One such downclimb occurs just above Fallen Tower Bridge, a massive chunk of limestone wedged between the ravine walls.� NedMan and DaveMan refer to it as the Crystal Gateway for the prevalence of quartz in this area.� This is an exciting passage, but the route below here gets more tedious with loose footing and the danger of rockslides.� In fact none of us manage to get through this section without kicking loose at least one small rock.� We have spread ourselves out to mitigate this threat.

We stop near the base of the Coconino for snacks and then proceed generally south through a series of Supai ledges.� NedMan and DaveMan are Alaskans with years of archeological surveying experience, their knack for spotting artifacts in our wanderings from this route make for some interesting observations.

From the base of the Supai the route levels out somewhat for about half a mile, giving my knees a much needed break.� The terminus of this traverse brings us to a splendid viewpoint atop the Redwall, Point Hansbrough and President Harding Rapids are some of the prominent features.

The Redwall descent becomes an obvious trail, but it is still quite steep and tiresome.� At times, that beach seems so far down yet so close, until finally I�m resting next to The River.� There are extensive camping sites here among the dunes, presumably from the hordes of River rats that must stay here during the boating season.� Tonight we have the beach all to ourselves though, and settle down near the upRiver end.

Day 2 – Beach layover:

Today is a layover day here at our beach below River mile 44.� We spend the morning relaxing and leisurely fishing The River, catching a couple rainbow trout in the process.� Further down River the fishing holes aren�t quite optimal, but we do see some fresh bighorn tracks, followed by predator tracks, probably a bobcat, and also a blue heron takes flight away from us.

It is not until early afternoon that we receive direct sunlight which feels great.� Three rafts of River rats drift slowly by, one passenger raises a beer in salute, but alas, we have no cold beer to return the cheers.� D.K. and NedMan venture off up River beyond President Harding Rapids and around the big bend north of Point Hansbrough. �I manage to catch one more rainbow trout before we retire to camp for happy hour.

Day 3 – River to Eminence Break Trailhead:

Sometime early this morning, perhaps between 1 and 2 am, I awake to nature�s call and notice it�s much warmer than last night.� Dark clouds have blotted out the stars.� Soon the pitter patter of rain is tapping on my tent, sporadic at first but growing more intense as the night wears on.

D.K. is the only one up braving the elements around first light.� I think the rest of us are just lying in our tents hoping for the storm to pass, but sensing it won�t.� Nothing to do now anyway but pack up our wet gear and head for the rim.

Typically I�m the opposite, but this route is so steep and unstable in places I much prefer going up than down, it just seems less physically demanding.� Still it�s no picnic to begin the day with a strenuous Redwall ascent, thankfully the rain has abated.

Retracing our route back up the Supai I have to pass my pack above to DaveMan for some of the ledges.� NedMan points out more Anasazi pottery fragments.� The weather has cooperated for most of this hike, but upon reaching the ascent chute through the Coconino and Kaibab we are assaulted by relentless gusts of freezing wind.

We actually make it out to the rim a little quicker than it took us to descend to The River, and not a day too soon perhaps as northern AZ got pounded throughout the night with blizzards.� What is normally a 2 hour drive from Flagstaff to Phoenix took us closer to 5 hours due to icy, snowy conditions and freeway closures.

To see more photos from this trip click here.

To read the trip report from these photos click here.

To read the trip report from these photos click here.