Serious Eats

This Week in Recipes

2013-05-19T17:00:00Z

Appetizers & Condiments

[Photograph: Deborah Mele]

Mains

Chicken Stir Fry with Potato, Cashews, and Curry Leaves [Photograph: Yvonne Ruperti]

Breakfast

Skillet Egg-in-a-Hole with Avocado, Asparagus, and Feta [Photograph: Yasmin Fahr]

Dessert

Creamy Chocolate Raspberry Summer Pudding [Photograph: Yvonne Ruperti]

Drinks

Jeff Faile's Negroni Bianco [Photograph: Brian Oh]

Preserved: Raspberry Rhubarb Ginger Jam

2013-05-19T15:00:00Z

From Sweets

[Photograph: Lucy Baker]

When I was growing up, for special occasions in the summertime, my mom would bake a raspberry-rhubarb pie. It had a buttery crumb topping flecked with cinnamon and ginger. The pie inevitably turned into a puddle of fruit and crust on the plate, but I loved it nonetheless.

This jam features all the same great flavors as that pie: tart rhubarb, sweet raspberries, and spicy ginger. A few tips: I find the best way to grate fresh ginger is on a microplane. Be sure to catch any extra juice. If your rhubarb stalks are especially fat, halve them lengthwise before chopping them. The goal is to break them down as quickly as possible to preserve the fresh flavors. I used lemon zest and juice in this recipe because that's what I had on hand, but lime would work equally well.

The flavors of this jam are big and bold, so it would work best with straightforward baked goods that won't compete. Skip the cakes and muffins and pair it with simple buttery croissants, whole-wheat toast, or brioche.

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Raspberry Rhubarb Ginger Jam »

About the Author: Lucy Baker is a food writer and the author of The Boozy Baker: 75 Recipes for Spirited Sweets and Edible DIY: Simple, Giftable Recipes to Savor and Share. She lives in Brooklyn with her husband, son, and dachshund.

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This Week in Eating Out

2013-05-18T21:00:00Z

Sandwiches

The ProZack at Shopsins in NYC [Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

Burgers

Buttermilk Kitchen's Waffle Burger in Atlanta, GA [Photograph: Todd Brock]

Pizza

Ravioli Pizza at Rosa's on Long Island [Photograph: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]

So This Exists: Ravioli Pizza at Rosa's in Huntington, Long Island

Reviews & First Looks

Lamb-stuffed meat pie at Silk Road Garden in LA [Photograph: Clarissa Wei]

Sweets

IPA Upside Down Cake Ice Cream [Photograph: Maggie Hoffman]

Drinks

The off-the-menu Gibson at Betony, NYC [Photograph: Maryse Chevriere]

Guides & More

The Belly Dog at Belly Shack in Chicago [Photograph: Nick Kindelsperger]

Sunday Supper: Pork and Hominy Soup

2013-05-18T19:00:00Z

Editor's note: Each Saturday afternoon we bring you a Sunday Supper recipe. Why on Saturday? So you have time to shop and prepare for tomorrow.

Slow-cooked Pozole-inspired pork soup. [Photograph: Jennifer Olvera]

In a word, this hangover-abating soup may be just what the doctor ordered. However, it's just as good when you're ailment-free.

Unlike some versions, which simmer the meat in water, this one uses pork to build the flavor of the broth. Make it entirely on the stove top if you'd like, reducing the simmer time to about 1 1/2 hours over low heat. You can use a slow-cooker as well; choose the 6-hour setting for best results.

Straining the broth is important. It helps remove any murkiness or impurities that muddle the flavors.

You can certainly choose to cook hominy from scratch, but I find that canned versions without unnecessary preservatives work just fine, too.

If you don't have access to these types of ground chili powders, go ahead and substitute traditional chili powder in equal measure for both. However, the broth will not have as much depth.

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Pork and Hominy Soup »

About the author: Jennifer Olvera is a veteran food and travel writer and author of "Food Lovers' Guide to Chicago." Follow her on Twitter @olverajennifer.

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Sunday Brunch: Ham and Pea Rice Cakes

2013-05-18T17:00:00Z

Editor's note: Each Saturday morning we bring you a Sunday Brunch recipe. Why on Saturday? So you have time to shop and prepare for tomorrow.

[Photograph: Sydney Oland]

When you need something a bit greasy, spicy, and filling to undo whatever is left in your system from the night before, these easy rice cakes are the answer to your hangover prayers. As an added bonus, they are a perfect use for that pesky carton of leftover white rice from take out earlier in the week.

Ham is what I like to use in this recipe, but bacon would work as well. And if you happen to have it laying around, a piece of diced tasso ham gives this dish a vaguely Cajun feel—almost like a jambalaya cake.

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Ham and Pea Rice Cakes »

About the author: Sydney Oland lives in Somerville, Mass. Find more information at sydneyoland.com (or read eatingnosetotail.com)

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Hangover Helper: The Chubby Pork Belly Bowl from Chego in Los Angeles

2013-05-18T15:30:00Z

From Drinks

[Photograph: Paul Bartunek]

You may, on occasion, find yourself awake after a particularly heavy bout of drinking to realize that you have absolutely no idea where you are. All you can discern is that you're on a sidewalk, next to open-stalled fish vendors and old ladies pushing boxy grocery carts filled with odd fruits you've never encountered before. Signs hanging heavy with Mandarin Chinese script offer no support, and pretty quickly you'll lift up your shirt to check for missing organs. And it's right then, at the absolute height of your hungover panic, when you're going to hear the voice of an angel. And that angel's name is Papi Chulo.

Well, his real name is Roy Choi, the megamind behind a Kogi BBQ food truck revolution, plus half a dozen egg-heavy restaurants around Los Angeles. Believe in his voice, as he calls out for orders of Ooey Gooey Fries or something called the Sour Cream Hen House. Let Choi's siren song guide you inside and you'll realize that you're not as far from home as you may have thought. This is Chinatown, Jake, and all those signs and stalls you saw before are just a regular part of the downtown Los Angeles landscape. Now hurry inside the Far East Plaza for a taste of Choi's ultimate post-drinking destination: Chego.

If you fancy yourself a Westside drinker, you're likely familiar with Chego's sticky rice bowls and on-the-menu-then-off-again burger. The former location on Overland ran into some serious issues with building management and, after a short stint as a truck in the parking lot, the entire operation up and moved east. They're still slinging those sticky rice bowls that have been known to stop hangovers, eradicate hunger, and cure cancer* (*allegedly). The monster among those bowls, the true beast that carries away your burden is the Chubby Pork Belly bowl ($9).

Stacked to the rafters and pulsing with the same vibrancy as the hip hop music that's pouring out of the kitchen, the Chubby Pork Belly bowl is a hangover's formidable foe. Thick pork belly rashers are spiced with gochujang, a delicious Korean chile paste, and then blackened at the edges over an open flame. Toss in Chinese broccoli, water spinach, Thai basil, and some pickled radishes, then dust over with cojita cheese, crushed peanuts, a little salsa verde and add in a splash of the thick, spicy, seed-in sambal sauce that is so popular along the Pacific rim. Of course, there are two big soy sauce-laced mounds of sticky rice underneath all of that gooiness, plus the requisite fried egg to smother the ingredients even further. This is the bowl that brings you back from the brink.

What more could you possibly want from a hangover reducer? There's starchy rice, fatty, crispy pork, a runny egg, a push of heat from the sambal and a dash of fresh greenery. Papi Chulo must really be an angel indeed. And now that Chego's all moved into their new Chinatown space, there's plenty of room on the picnic tables out front to rest your head until your order number is called. For those of you who can't stop chasing the dog that just bit you, Chego is also a BYOB establishment, with a liquor store around the corner. Eat a few Chubby Pork Belly bowls and one too many Singha beers and you may just find yourself back out on the sidewalk, unsure of how you got there in the first place.

Chego

727 North Broadway #117, Chinatown Los Angeles (map)
eatchego.com

About the author: Farley Elliott is a writer and comedian living in Los Angeles. He writes about strip mall food for LA Weekly and covers the LA beer scene for KCET.

This Week at Serious Eats World Headquarters

2013-05-17T22:00:00Z

VIEW SLIDESHOW: This Week at Serious Eats World Headquarters

[Photographs: Robyn Lee, unless otherwise noted]

This week we said goodbye to Erin, had a steamed bun-filled birthday lunch, tasted potato chips, watched Hambone bond with Mr. Bear, and more.

Leftovers: Stray Links From Our Editors

2013-05-17T21:30:38Z

Maggie: The 'New Wave' of California winemakers is getting a lot of attention, but many of those who are experimenting and pushing the boundaries rely on others for their fruit. This piece from John Trinidad of SF Wine Blog is a reminder that this exciting moment in California all depends on vineyard owners who are willing to take a risk on lesser-known grape varieties.

On Instagram, sonyayu takes gorgeous food shots (and the occasional dog-in-a-costume.) Warning: her frequent photos at San Francisco's Plow will make you crave brunch.

Carrie: Just weeks after I bought a bamboo steamer to make chawanmushi, had my fun, then relegated it to the far corners of my kitchen, Heidi Swanson reminds me what I should really be doing with it: steaming vegetables. Simple. Delicious. Near perfect for spring.

Niki: I'm keeping a close eye on all that in vitro meat being whipped up in the Netherlands. Can't wait to sink my teeth into a big, juicy, 100% guilt-free test tube burger!

In other news, a quick shout-out to Katie Shelly, a longtime friend and colleague who was just profiled on NPR's The Salt for her new cookbook, Picture Cook. It's a beautifully illustrated and inspiring collection of blueprint-style recipes, and I can't wait to add a copy to my shelf.

Max: A brief but poignant piece on New York food critic Robert Sietsema, the newest casualty of American newspapers laying off their essential food writers.

Robyn: Ryan Gosling Won't Eat His Cereal: This is over a week old already, which means it's ancient in Internet years, but I'm still loving RyanWMcHenry's Vine clips of Ryan Gosling not eating cereal. Yeah. That's what it is. It's. It's so good. Just. Yes. You can watch all the clips in this YouTube video.

Jamie: RIP E. Robert Kinney, the man who gave America the gift of fish sticks. The former General Mills CEO and founder of the iconic Gorton's Fish Sticks line has passed away at age 96.

Nick: I'm sucker for old school hot dog stands, especially ones that serve oddball creations found nowhere else. That partly explains why I found this 10 minute video from Grub Street Chicago's Mike Gebert about Johnny O's breaded steak and fried cheese sandwich so fascinating.

What's Up in Pizza: Kitchen Nightmares, Pizza Compass, The Latest From Domino's, and More!

2013-05-17T21:00:00Z

From Slice

Pizza Compass wants to be your new best friend. The recently released iPhone app, tag-lined "No Frills, Just Pizza" is designed to perform one simple and essential task: Find all the pizza, all the time.

Introducing: Pizza Compass

[Video: Pizza Compass from Oak Studios].

If you have somehow missed the viral and utterly enthralling coverage (here or here, for instance) of the massive and extremely public meltdown of Amy's Baking Company owners Samy and Amy Bouzaglo, you're in for a real treat. The Kitchen Nightmares couple now claims their expletive-filled facebook freakout was the product of hackers. Then again, there is this video, in which a man ~~barely escapes with his life~~ tries to leave without paying, after waiting over an hour to never get his pizza...So yeah, I'll let you be the judge!

Kitchen Nightmares: Amy's Baking Company

Domino's has done it again. And by "it," I mean yet another profoundly perplexing foreign marketing campaign. This time, Brazil's the lucky recipient of the brand's inventive tactic. Using thermal ink and what I can only imagine is fancified scratch and sniff technology, rental stores in Sao Paulo and Rio have joined up with the pizza chain to distribute DVDs that look and smell like pizza—but only after they've been played! You can watch the magic below, though Domino's regretfully has yet to figure out a scent delivery method that will provide the full sensory experience.

Domino's Stinky DVDs

[Video via TheVerge.com]

This Week on Serious Eats Chicago

2013-05-17T20:45:09Z

From Chicago

Weekend Baking Project: Thai Coffee Bread Pudding

2013-05-17T20:30:00Z

From Sweets

[Photograph: Maria del Mar Sacasa]

Heady and sweet, Thai coffee is a glorious mix of a strongly brewed cup of joe and condensed milk. This bread pudding plays on those flavors, sweetening the base custard with condensed milk and adding a generous amount of espresso powder plus floral cardamom, spicy cinnamon, and almond extract. Chunks of buttery challah soak it all up. We like to go the extra mile and serve this with a homemade chilled orange whipped cream.

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Thai Coffee Bread Pudding »

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This Week on Serious Eats: New York

2013-05-17T20:15:00Z

From Serious Eats: New York

1. We Try the Cronut from Dominique Ansel Bakery
2. Video: Katz's Only Jewish Waiter Really Hates His Job
3. Masaharu Morimoto's 11 Tips for Tuna and Sushi at the New York Culinary Experience
4. Serious Eats Neighborhood Guides: Michael Anthony's Midtown East
5. Local 92 Does Great Hummus if You Don't Sweat the Small Stuff
6. Ask the Critic: Where to Eat in Downtown Brooklyn, Best NYC Pizza
7. Open Thread: What's the Quintissential New York Sandwich Shop?
8. Market Tours: Dual Specialty Store, an Indian Spice Haven on Curry Row
9. Seven Months After Sandy, South Street Seaport Restaurants Still Struggling
10. Arepas Cafe: Quality Arepas in Astoria

How to Make Mayahuel's Black Star

2013-05-17T20:00:00Z

From Drinks

[Photographs: Linda Xiao]

The best comforts transcend seasons: a soft scarf, pie a la mode, a good Bloody Mary. At Mayahuel in New York's East Village, the warm-spiced Black Star is one such year-round pleasure. "This became part of what I called my Indian Winter menu," says Philip Ward, co-owner and bartender, who added the Black Star to the menu as spring started to creep in. "We've been selling the bejesus out of it."

Ward breaks down the method to his mixing into three steps. First, he called on the template of a buck—ginger, lemon and booze—subbing in ginger syrup for the usual ginger ale or beer.

"Another thing I like to do is split hairs," Ward explains, referring to the practice of using, say, one ounce each of two types of liquor instead of the two ounces of one liquor a recipe calls for. Here, Ward uses one ounce of reposado tequila and one ounce of bourbon.

Much like Mos def and Talib Kweli, Buffalo Trace Bourbon and Pueblo Viejo Reposado have a natural chemistry. "Pueblo Viejo is aged, with hints of wood," notes Ward, "So I knew it would go well with bourbon." And just in case the two needed a bridge, Ward drew on the notes of cinnamon in both spirits with a homemade cinnamon bark syrup.

Ward sticks to the classic addition of lemon, but—the third trusty trick up his sleeve—adds something to the "naked template:" apple butter. A little goes a long way, adding both texture and a deeper, sweet and lightly autumnal flavor to the cocktail.

Garnished with an apple slice for subtle aroma, the Black Star is complex yet soft and approachable. Those first few sips bring a lot of cinnamon and spicy sweetness up front, booze on the exhale. And while it's almost dangerously drinkable, that bit of apple butter adds a sumptuous, savorable heft you won't find in your average buck.

Indian Winter or early summer, I'd drink the bejesus out of this one.

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Black Star from Mayahuel »

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Food for Change: 5 Food Groups Doing Great Work

2013-05-17T19:30:00Z

Editor's note: In "Food for Change," we'll profile groups out there connecting people to better food access. In this series we want to applaud the passionate people and organizations doing meaningful work with food in their communities. Please share tips for others to include in this column in the comments below.

If you're interested in learning about sustainable agriculture through a hands-on experience, check out Farm Stay U.S. The agritourism site lists working farms that accept visitors for paid stays. In order to be listed, they must have a demonstrable commitment to sustainable practices. As a guest, you have an opportunity to learn directly from farmers, acquiring new skills while assisting with daily tasks. There are locations across the country, from ranches to vegetable farms, that welcome visitors. Farm stays can be a great way to experience an agricultural lifestyle while also supplementing the income of a farming family.

Since 1981, the Southside Community Land Trust has been supporting the farmers and gardeners of Providence, Rhode Island. SCLT runs a 3/4-acre farm in the heart of Providence, facilitates agricultural education programs for city residents, and manages 16 community gardens across the city. The organization also hosts workshops on planting, composting, beekeeping, preserving, and more, serving as a hub for food activists, farmers, and students alike.

In 2011, the Fit Kids Foundation was established to improve access to physical education for children. Fit Kids provides an 8-week fitness program that meets for an hour each week. By taking a fun and engaging approach to exercise and offering helpful nutritional tips, they hope to encourage participants to adopt and promote healthy living. The group is expanding to new schools and is currently accepting applications to become a Fit Kids coach.

Genetically modified foods are a hot topic these days. The Genetic Engineering Action Network provides a space for knowledge sharing and collaboration between groups advocating increased government transparency and the disbandment of corporate monopolies over commercial food production. GEAN is dedicated to providing individuals with the tools to make informed decisions about their consumption and diets.

The Healthy Farms, Healthy People Coalition works to organize policy initiatives in the food and agriculture sectors. Their priorities this year include increasing access to local food and promoting sustainable agricultural systems that are fair to farmers and laborers. On their website, you can find ways to get involved by contacting state or local representatives and engaging with any of their dozen member organizations.

About the Author: A student in Providence, Rhode Island, Leah Douglas loves learning about, talking about, reading about, and consuming food. Her other work can be found at her website.

Chicago Food Events for the Weekend and Beyond

2013-05-17T19:15:23Z

From Chicago

Saturday (May 18)

Zoo-ologie at Lincoln Park Zoo
Saturday, May 18, 8:00 p.m. to midnight
Featuring an ancient Roman theme, this annual fundraiser for the Lincoln Park Zoo includes cocktails, dancing, and gourmet food stations. Katherine Anne Confections, Sunda, Frontier, and Wow Bao, among others, are on the culinary line-up. $115. 2001 N. Clark Street; event website

Marcus Samuelsson Book Reception at the Merchandise Mart
Saturday, May 18, 4:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m.
To celebrate the release of his new memoir, YES, CHEF, Marcus Samuelsson will visit the Snaidero Showroom for discussion and a reception. Event tickets include a copy of the book. $50. 222 Merchandise Mart Plaza; event website

Green Festival
Saturday, May 18, 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. and Sunday, May 19, 11:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
Navy Pier hosts this celebration of sustainability, which includes an organic, vegetarian, and vegan food court and organic beer and wine garden. The event also includes featured speakers, yoga sessions, kids entertainment, and a marketplace. $10-$32. 600 E. Grand Avenue; event website

Sunday (May 19)

25 Years of Craft Brewing Block Party at Goose Island
Sunday, May 19, 12:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m.
Part of Chicago Craft Beer Week, Goose Island is celebrating a quarter-century of craft brewing at this afternoon event. Ticketholders receive 25 beer tasting vouchers for Goose Island classics, along with new releases and guest beers. Check out the complete Craft Beer Week schedule for more events. $25. 1800 W. Fulton Street; event website

Beyond (Saturday, June 8)

Bon Appétit Grub Crawl-Chicago

Tickets are on sale now for this new event, which allows diners to choose from one of two sessions. The afternoon event focuses on the West Loop, with a kick-off at Nellcote followed by stops at Little Goat, Avec, Blackbird, and Embeya. The evening sessions takes place in Logan Square, beginning with live music at Logan Auditorium and then food and drinks at Billy Sunday, Telegraph, Reno, and Jam. $149. Locations Vary; event website