Traveller's Tales

Tasting Malaysia

2012-01-21T21:40:00.016+05:30

KL can be an exciting place for foodies with its incredible variety of street food and cuisines - brought together by the different ethnic groups that make up this interesting country. I had a chance to sample a selection of foods, some for the very first time. There are three distinct sets of cuisines associated with the major ethnic groups: Malay, Indian and Chinese, but there are also some lesser known ones such as Nyonya (of the Straits Chinese ethnic group) and Sarawak (a community that lives on the island of Borneo).

Madam Kwan's is a restaurant on the 4th level of KLCC that offers local Malay cuisine. The popularity of this place during lunch was easy to see: there was a long line of people outside waiting for seats. Malay food has a lot of similarity to that of its neighbours, Thailand and Indonesia, but with some unique twists.

Belacan and Assam are probably the most common ingredients you will find in their dishes. Belacan is made from fermented baby shrimp which is then dried and formed into small cakes. A tiny amount is added to most Malay dishes to add that special 'kick'. Assam is essentially tamarind paste commonly added to fish and vegetable dishes to make them more tangy - probably a practice that came from South India many years back.

We ordered several great dishes: Assam Laksa, an aromatic tamarind broth with lai fun noodles and fish; Sambal Petai, a hot and spicy prawn dish topped with local twisted cluster beans; Belacan kangkong, a variety of local greens stir-fried in the spicy shrimp paste. There was also an interesting fish cake followed by a lovely dessert called Sago Gula Melaka which is made of tapioca (sabodana in India) with palm sugar. Absolutely loved this one!

On another day, we went to Mum's Place, another delightful eatery here. I ate the tear-inducing Fried Cencaru Fish with Chili Padi Paste and Petai Beans; Fried Jenahak Fish with Mum's Special Belacan Paste, Beef Rendang - popularized by Malaysian restaurants worldwide; Smoked Chicken with dip and Tom Yum Soup.

Then came Steamed Beancurd with minced chicken meat, Fried Aubergines with Chili Padi paste and finally, Pulut Tekan - glutinous rice served warm with kaya.

As you can see from the pictures, that was a lot of food, but everyone of them delightfully different and exciting for me. There are several more delicacies such as Fish Head Curry that came into Malaysia and Singapore from the Indian immigrants. However, it was the tastes of belacan, petai beans, the Durian fruit, and Assam that made for my most authentic and unique experiences this time around. Incidentally, both Petai and Durian have strong (and to some, offensive) odors in their uncooked form.

For those you interested in the authentic street food experience, there is no better place than Jalan Alor, which comes alive in the late evenings. Watch where the locals are crowded the most and go have a feast!

Enter The Dragon

2012-01-15T20:58:00.001+05:30

Kuala Lumpur was decked in gold and red as the city got ready to celebrate the Chinese New Year - the Year of the Dragon. Chinese restaurants in the city advertised special menus with names such as Prosperity, Happiness, Wealth. The upscale malls of Jalan Bukit Bintang were crowded with well-heeled shoppers out to have a special time for the New Year. Seeing all the excitement, one wouldn't realize that only 20 percent here are of Chinese origin while the majority are Malay who are predominately Muslim. This is one reason why Malaysia advertises itself as Truly Asia. With a vibrant multi-cultural population of Malays, Chinese and Indians, this country is a melting pot of religions, cuisines and cultures, not very unlike India.

I was at the Westin hotel in KL which is surrounded by some of the most upscale malls in the city. I strolled down to The Pavilion mall, past a long line of bears painted by artists representing the countries of the world. This seemed to be part of some kind of global awareness event. The atrium was ablaze in red and gold with a large dragon snaking through the four floors.

Several Chinese vendors show-cased Chinese artistry. One that caught my eye immediately were the delicately painted snuff bottles. Unbelievable as it sounds, these bottles are hand-painted from the inside by painstakingly manipulating a bent brush through the narrow neck of the bottles. The bottles were expensive, but I had to buy myself one - and I did. This art-form was perfected by Chinese artists during the Qing dynasty several years ago and can still inspire awe.

During dinner that night I began with an Yee Sang. This dish of raw fish salad is unique to Malaysia and Singapore and only found during the Chinese New Year. Long strands of carrot, turnip and other vegetables were surrounded by colorful heaps of condiments that were ceremonially mixed together and topped with raw slices of salmon. But the fun part is the 'prosperity toss' where the entire family joins in tossing the salad with chop sticks trying to toss from as high as possible. My waiters joined me in this, while wishing me success on everything thing from health, wealth and even promotions! :)

After this uniquely Malaysian ritual, I followed with a dish of steaming hot udon noodles tossed with black pepper sauce and red grouper. A dessert of Durian ice-cream topped with red bean paste in a pumpkin sauce made for a very different dessert experience. Incidentally, Durian is a seasonal fruit popular here which is notorious for its smell.

I saw the term 'China Doll' bandied around in newspaper headlines and conversations - turns out they weren't referring to the delicate porcelain ones, but real girls. Apparently, there has been a influx of pretty girls from mainland China in massage parlors, hotels and other types of hospitality industries with the aim of finding sugar daddies from among local Chinese and rich expats. This has led to a public backlash from local conservatives and Chinese wives who are up in arms against what they see as lax immigration procedures.

Next: Malaysian Cuisine in KL

Shisha & Addah

2012-01-07T19:42:00.011+05:30

Shisha is Persian for hookah. Which gives you some idea of what to expect: a Persian themed cafe run by an Iranian where a flavored hookah can be ordered at the table-side. However, what makes Shisha truely popular with the locals and foreigners alike is the refreshingly different interiors, the greenery all around, and the live jazz on select weekend.

Shisha is a great place for a casual date or even a late-evening rendezvous with friends and colleagues. But it isn't a place you visit with kids in tow! The large restaurant has two levels and on most days is packed during the late evenings. The restaurant opens for a late breakfast and lunch, if you are nostalgic for some Iranian staples in the city.

This is one of my favorite places for a meetup with friends over drinks, but it has been a while since I had come here. I was glad to see that the food seems to have improved over the years.

We choose Jujeh Kababs followed by Keema Mutter with Garlic Naan. The Iranian kababs were perfectly cooked over charcoal. The Keema Mutter was an instant hit with our American colleagues and we were left with no space for desserts.

Shisha has an extensive menu with Persian staples, North Indian kababs, Mughlai curries, as well as some Italian options. However, it is the overall atmosphere of the place that makes the experience outstanding.

Now for another Koregaon Park dining spot, Addah.

The word addah reminds me of spirited conversations with steaming cups of coffee at Calcutta's iconic Coffee House. However, Addah, in a more generic sense means a gathering place for friends - a place to spend time chatting over food and drinks. And for this the rooftop restaurant of the O Hotel in Pune is quite perfect. Addah can be a brilliant spot to wash away the day's stress with a glass of your favorite tipple and platters of succulent kababs.

Addah is co-located on the rooftop with a open-air bar and the swimming pool. We were here early and the place was still empty. The evening was very pleasant with only a slight nip in the air. The skies were clear but the lights all around the Koregaon Park area made it difficult to see any stars in the night sky. Still, the Pune skyline all around made for a wonderful backdrop.

They brought us some papads and green salad as we perused the menu which consists for a good selection of kababs, curries and desserts. We weren't hungry enough to order the kabab platter, and so settled for the gosht sheek kababs and murgh malai tikkas.

The kababs were quite delicious - succulent, smoky from the charcoal fire and a little on the spicier side, the way I like them!

The Rogan Josh, with chunks of mutton in a red gravy made with fried onion and red chillies was excellent as were the Lasooni Naan that we had ordered with the dish. Rogan Josh is not on their menu, but the chef was willing to make it for us.

We ended with a rich, warm dessert of Badaam Halwa which was perfect for the winter evening. By now the restaurant was quite full and the noise level had begun to go up. However, the service was pretty good all through the evening.

Overall, I would say Addah is a good choice is you are looking for an interesting rooftop dining experience. As for the food itself, it was all good, but I did not find anything that was particularly memorable.

Overall, both Shisha and Addah are both interesting options but I would pick Shisha over Addah on most days.

Tuk-Tuks and Temples

2012-01-01T17:31:00.011+05:30

There were no signs of the recent floods during the day we spent gallivanting through Bangkok. We had decided to take some time off from our beach vacation in Koh Samui to soak up some culture and food in this captivating city. Our hotel, the Royal Orchid Sheraton, was located right on the banks of the Chao Praya River, giving us the flexibility of choosing between a taxi, tuk-tuk or a riverboat. In addition to the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew - which I have visited before - we took a diversion to some other temples off the beaten path.

Wat Ratchabhopit, a temple dedicated to the Buddha, was a-glitter with gold and red motifs. Far away from the tourist hordes, this temple provided us a peaceful oasis from which to admire the thought and intricate workmanship that went into building Thai temples, many of which such as this one is a combination of influences - local Thai, other Asian and European.

This temple is co-located with the Royal mausoleum containing the ashes of the Queen, daughters and concubines of King Rama V who built this temple complex. The manager of the temple complex gladly gave us a detailed tour of the temple, explaining the significance of the different Buddha statues.

It was here I learnt about the Buddha's different postures that are associated with days of the week. Thai devotees prefer to keep images of the Buddha that represent their birth weekdays. The posture for Sundays has the Buddha standing with his hands down in front of his body, while Mondays has him standing with his right hand raised palm outside. And so on.

Gems have special meaning in Thailand too. Rubies from Thailand are very popular the world over, but beware the scam artists when in Bangkok. In fact, if a friendly tourist policeman at the Grand Palace helpfully points you to a different place followed by a tour to the 'famous' Royal Factory' which is selling rubies and gemstones for a discount only on this day, it is most surely another scam. Unless you are an expert at gems, stay clear of expensive stones in Bangkok.

The cultural highlight of our visit to Bangkok was clearly the Siam Niramit theater. We strongly recommend this to anyone who hasn't experienced this show before. Siam Niramit is a lavish spectacle put together with the panache of a Las Vegas extravaganza.

The show begins at 8 PM, but gates open at 5:30 PM for visitors to get a little taste of Thai history and culture through street-side performances and live displays of village life. There is also a great buffet restaurant to sample the cuisine right on-site. The show covers Thailands history: the ancient kingdom of Lanna in the North, the traders who came in from the South Seas, the heritage of the Khymer kingdom and Ayuttaya, the mighty capital in the central Plains.

The show ends with depictions of their common beliefs in the Laws of Karma and the worlds of Hell, Himapan - gateway to the heavens, and Heaven itself.

All throughout this trip, we tasted some of the very best in Thai cuisine. Even the 'regular' Thai curries tasted so much more better in the country of its origin. We always ended up ordering more food than we could finish in our eagerness to taste everything!

Bangkok posts from my previous trip here: Siamese Wonders, Snapshots, More Goodness, A Dinner to Remember.

A Tropical Xmas

2011-12-28T15:11:00.000+05:30

Christmas at the Four Seasons Koh Samui was a lot of fun! The gala dinner at Lan Tania on Christmas Eve turned out to be a gourmet's delight, and for my daughter the highlight was clearly Santa who arrived with an elephant in tow. In addition to the Castaway Dinner which I wrote about in my previous post, they had a Bounty of Thailand evening showcasing the culinary delicacies of the country featuring live cooking stations and Thai dances. For those who did not wish to leave their villas, they had in-villa dining options that included Xmas turkey specials and bar-be-que dinners.

We decided to go with the special seven-course Thai dinner at Lan Tania. The restaurant had been transformed for the special evening with festive decorations all around.

Our dinner started with a trio of starters: the Goong Shair Narm Pla was a raw tiger prawn salad with lemongrass, garlic and spicy lime sauce. The Pooja turned out to be deep-fried stuffed crab shell, and the Hoi Nang Roam was a large Thai oyster with seafood sauce and garnished with fried onion and tamarind leaf salad. The oyster and the crab were particularly good!

The soup came next. Tom Som Pla, a fish soup with lemongrass, fresh turmeric and lime leaf was delicately flavored and excellent!

The entrees after that. The Paneng Kang was rock lobster in a dry red curry with peanut and kaffir lime. The Sua Rong Hai was grilled beef strip loin with spicy herbs and roast rice cracker sauce. While the lobster was very good, I found the beef hard too tough and chewy to enjoy.

Finally, the desserts! The Kao Niew Mamuang, mango sticky rice was made with an interesting twist: the sweetened rice and the mango pulp had been blended separately and served chilled in a glass like ice-cream. And to end it all, a serving of their deliciously creamy coconut ice-cream, tonight served in half of a tender-coconut with long gratings of its soft kernel.

Christmas morning arrived with other gifts: goodies in a Xmas stocking, pastries and fruit breads from the kitchens. Then Santa himself made an appearance for the kids with a baby elephant in tow making this Xmas particularly memorable for my daughter when she got to ride the elephant.

We tried both the Lan Tania and the beachside restaurant, Pla Pla, multiple times during this trip. The food was consistent good and the prices reasonable too - by Four Seasons standards.

During Castaway Dinner we had gorged on grilled sea bass, red snapper, rock lobster, blue crab and calamari with sides of baked potatoes with sour cream and bacon, corn on the cob, grilled veggies on skewers and several local salads and a seafood carpaccio shake. Therefore at Pla Pla, I decided to try a different fish, a Thai sole, which turned out extremely flavorful and tasty.

Even the in-villa dining made for a great experience. They would lay the table expertly on our outdoor deck, plating the food at the table and in the evening even light a candle to give us that perfect outdoor dining experience.

We loved the authentic flavors of Thai curries, salads and noodle dishes. While we now get good Thai food in India, everything seemed that much more tasty here. Southern Thailand, where Samui is located, is known for its spicy food and also dishes influenced by Indonesian and Indian cuisine. We loved every dish we tried. As you can see, this was pretty much a gastronomic Christmas Holiday for us!

Previous in this series: A Vacation in Koh Samui

A Vacation in Koh Samui

2011-12-24T10:53:00.012+05:30

Since our last vacation at the beautiful resort island of Landaa Giraavaru in the Maldives, I was looking for something different but equally breathtaking. Koh Samui turned out to be just that. The lush green jungles and coconut groves on the hilly terrain of this island dramatically gave way to the most amazing view as the ground fell away steeply. The 360 degree panorama painted by the blue-green waters of the Gulf of Thailand, the large expanse of clear skies, and the white sands of the beach snaking far below is awe-inspiring even for the most demanding hedonist!

The Four Seasons report at Koh Samui is set on a private bay at the northern tip of the island. After a brief welcome drink at the picturesque reception sala at the hill crest, we were quickly escorted to our villa in a golf cart. The villa was luxuriously large with its own outdoor deck and infinity pool overlooking the Gulf. The resort is built on a steep and thickly forested hillside affording great privacy and views of the ocean, beach and swaying coconut trees. However, the winding roads are steep - very steep! They have golf buggies that will quickly take you anywhere within the resort.

Within minutes of arriving, we were in the infinity pool. The water was a little cold but that didn't discourage us one little bit. Before the evening was over, our daughter was already planning her activities at the Kids Club. They have a calendar of cool activities to keep the kids busy the entire week: building sand-castles, lotus flower folding, Thai dancing, kids yoga, baking cookies, and learning to make jasmine necklaces, sea-shell bracelets and decorative candles.

We had made reservations for a Castaway Dinner experience at the beach. They had set up six tables in a small sandy cove. The tables with their flickering lanterns, the waves crashing on the sandy banks just a few away and the variety of fresh seafood grilled to order made for a memorable evening.

We were reluctant to get out of our soft bed next morning. Our daughter was already up and dressed in her Kids Club ready for the day's activity. We took a golf buggy to the hill crest restaurant called Lan Tania. The breakfast buffet was quite delightful: a lavish spread of excellent breads, pastries, Asian staples, exotic tropical fruits and live egg and pancake stations.

My wife and I had the rest of the day to laze around in our amazing villa, at our pool and strolling on the sandy beach. The day was overcast and the temperature pleasantly warm; the busy lives we had left behind was long forgotten!

Next in this series: A Tropical Xmas

Eclectic Bay Area Dining

2011-12-17T16:13:00.006+05:30

Christmas was very much in the air! Finely decorated trees and festive lighting were everywhere: hotel lobbies, shops and malls. And the people didn't seem to have heard of the global recession and pessimism that fills every newspaper and business magazine. Downtown San Francisco was packed with people busy with their shopping. The Westfield Mall on Market and 4th was teeming with families as was the Apple Store nearby. I had arrived on a weekend for a short business trip and found the weather pleasant and warm - unexpectedly so for this time of the year!

I strolled into the new Osha restaurant on 3rd St., which they took over after Bong Su went under. This restaurant has a completely different ambiance from the one on 2nd Street. Unlike the older, larger and more popular 2nd Street restaurant, this one has a different menu and a quieter dinner experience. They have wisely decided not to modify the tastefully decorated interiors from its previous avatar.

The Mango Salad was refreshingly nice with shredded green mango, warm shrimps, onion, lettuce, cucumber, and lemon juice. It was tangy and spicy in the way I like Thai salads.

The Volcanic Beef with rice made for a pretty picture. The dish was garnished with a trio of onion rings on top and tasted as good as it looked.

I ended this lunch with a ginger flavored vanilla creme brûlée topped with a raspberry. I still miss Bong Su which combined style and great food unlike any Asian restaurant I have seen before. However, Osha does a good job and this is a good place for a quiet Thai dinner in stylish surroundings.

On another day, I was back at Parcel 104 with a group of colleagues. When you tell people you are going to a restaurant located within a Marriott hotel, they shake their heads sadly. Little do they know! Parcel 104 is an unusual gem and this visit was even better than my previous one.

One of Bradley Ogden's outposts in California, this restaurant boasts of a new menu every day. This restaurant in the heart of Silicon Valley was as busy as ever. After a couple of martinis at the bar next door, we walked into the large, expansive dining room.

I began with the Confit of Sonoma Duck made with cheesy hash brown, sake poached pear and what the menu promised was a whole roasted wild hen of the woods. I knew tonight was going to be good at the first bite into the fat infused duck-meat! I am salivating even as I write this now. Hope this shows up on their menu the next time too.

My entree was an oak-grilled Creekstone Farms Ribeye Steak with a soft-poached egg, smoked mushrooms and golden chanterelle 'cream'. Another winner that really tickled the tastebuds. I had asked for medium-rare, and the steak was cooked absolutely right.

The sweet ending was fitting too: a Citrus brioche, bananas & caramel and Tahitian vanilla frozen cream! Doesn't get much better than this.

I had an opportunity to eat at the much regarded - and Michelin starred - restaurant at Saratoga, The Plumed Horse. Unfortunately, that dinner didn't turn out to be as memorable as this one.

A Stopover in Lion City

2011-12-10T08:01:00.010+05:30

After Hong Kong returned to China in the late 90s, Singapore pretty much became the top choice for the white man's outpost in Asia. Modern and efficiently run, this city of steel and glass considerably eases the transition from the West to the East. At some level, expat businessmen and their lives here are probably not very different from British governors from another age - but that's another story. To me, this tiny city is like a sampler platter of delicious morsels that you can savor over a single meal. You can take that literally too! Singapore's culinary scene is quite mind-blowing: from swanky restaurants run by global celebrity chefs, humble hawker centers, and everything in-between.

Today, Singapore's cosmopolitan character allows for a seamless melding of cuisines where you can dig into crispy Peking duck skin with five-spiced foie gras at renowned chef Susur Lee's Chinois or order Laksa pesto linguine and roast Chilean sea bass with chai poh and chicken congee at Wild Rocket, another delightful eatery on Mount Emily.

Between business meetings, my colleagues took me to a Cantonese Chinese restaurant called Taste Paradise for lunch. I wasn't too worried that it was situated in one of the shopping malls - I have tasted some interesting foods in Singapore malls before. Two girls in traditional regalia greeted guests at the entrance while bright orange slats curved like a dragon's back above the dining room and lit up the hand-painted portraits of emperors on the walls.

Taste Paradise was started by a local restauranteur who began with a small coffee shop but now owns a string of successful eateries in this city. I decided to let my host order for all of us, and what a good thing that turned out to be!

We began with a soup of chicken. The waitress brought out the large pot to the table and ladled out clear soup into our bowls. She fished out pieces of chicken and neatly put them on a plate, but apparently these were not meant to be eaten. Carmelized cashews and cups of steaming green tea followed.

Then came a series of dim sums: Ha Kau, Siew Mai, Xiao Long Bao, Char Siu Bao - the last one being among the best roast pork buns I have eaten.

The steamed Cheong Fun with honey BBQ Pork filling was excellent too as were the Crackling Pork Belly. The XO Carrot Cake is a popular item on the menu and it was certainly interesting but not exceptional in my opinion.

For me, the stand-out items were the ones we ended with. The Custard Bun, Liu Sha Bao, with its molten bright yellow middle was fabulous as was the unusual dessert made of chilled avocado with a scoop of coffee ice-cream that was served in a dish with heavy white fumes coming off its base!

On Friday evening, after a long day a few of us headed to the watering holes in Orchard Road. First in Alley Bar, a dim-lit and high-ceiling L-shaped place popular with expat businessmen and hipsters alike. I was meeting with some old friends after a while and it was fun chilling out over glasses of Guinness and Truffle Fries.

We then walked down to Marche, a Movenpick owned restaurant themed like a bustling open marketplace in the basement of one of the swanky malls on Orchard Road. I settled for grilled sea-bass, German sausages and beer.

Finally, we walked down at Wine Connection to give in to our sweet cravings with a glass of Kracher wine and Tiramisu. I had a flight to catch so by midnight, when the night was still young, I headed back to my hotel. The Holidays were in the air with Christmas trees, lighting and sweet cakes and pastries on display everywhere.

Note: You can find my posts from previous visits to Singapore here, here and here.

Dario's

2011-12-03T17:59:00.006+05:30

There are few restaurants in Pune that can boast of surroundings such as this. Lush green vegetation, an occasional peacock from the neighboring Osho ashram, and a large outdoor dining space under a canopy of tropical trees. But oodles of atmosphere is not the only charm here. Dario Dezio's eponymous restaurant in tony Koregaon Park is also known for its extraordinary and authentic Italian salads, pastas and wood-fired pizzas. The care they take to make their food safe is lore: for example, they wash their greens in mediclorex and then in silver colloid to to kill bacteria and neutralize the taste of chlorine.

Dario Dezio moved into Pune from his native Silicy about 20 years back. He was the chef at Little Italy for several years before starting his own restaurant. The one thing you need to note is this restaurant serves only vegetarian food. It is a testimony of how good the food is that you may not even notice!

This time I was here for a leisurely lunch experience with my family. We sat outdoor with the sun playing hide-and-seek through the green canopy overhead. Maroon-robed sanyasins, expat couples and Indian families occupied other tables. A peacock shrieked loudly somewhere beyond the trees. We sat back enjoying our cocktails - my mojito, a perfect complement to the setting!

We started with Nachos Messicani for our daughter - a large platter of Mexican style nachos with melted cheese sauce. She was delighted with it; actually, even we couldn't resist digging in!

I had ordered the Carpaccio di Bietola, thin slices of beetroot with feta cheese, rucola, extra virgin olive oil and lemon. Another dish made great by a deft combination of fresh ingredients.

My wife began with a Santa Benedetta salad made of mixed lettuce leaves, pineapple chunks, matured Ricotta cheese, pomegranate, fresh home-made cheese and cold pressed olive oil.

We shared a main dish of Gnocchi Ai Formaggi di Salaparuta, excellent home-made gnocchi with a trio of Italian cheeses, white wine and thyme. Absolutely lip-smacking!

Finally, we shared slices of their Picciutti pizza made of fresh tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese, artichokes, mushrooms, garlic, olives, broccoli and sun-dried tomatoes.

We were too full by now, so we had to ask them to pack the remaining pizza and gnocchi - which they did rather nicely as you can see here.

Dario's has a pretty good list of desserts that include the popular Tiramisu and Torta al Caffe. Their breakfast menu is good too with a selection of waffles, croissants, crepes and sandwiches. This is a place you must try for that special dinner date with the wife or girlfriend, a lazy weekend lunch with the family, or just the food in tranquil surroundings.

Dario's is located within the gardens of Hotel Sundarban, Lane 1, Koregaon Park. Ph: 26053596, 26053597, 32405960.

Showering at 40,000 Feet on Emirates' A380

2011-11-26T06:29:00.003+05:30

I recently travelled First Class on Emirates from Mumbai to New York City on their latest aircraft. While I have briefly reviewed the Emirates experience in the past (here and here), the First Class cabin on the A380 - especially the Shower Spa on-board this aircraft - deserves a new post!

Emirates provides a free limo pick-up service for its business and first class passengers. The Mercedes-Benz with a prominent Emirates logo picked me up from my Mumbai hotel about two hours before departure time. Once I got past the crowded outer gate of Mumbai airport, it was smooth sailing. The First Class check-in counter was free and within minutes I had breezed past immigration and on my way to their excellent upper-class lounge.

The lounge itself is easily the best in Mumbai: large, well-designed and stocked with a variety of food and drinks. There is complimentary Wi-fi too. Soon, they were ready to board us for the 2.5-hour flight to Dubai.

The aircraft had their new short-haul cabins, with its futuristic pod-shaped seats in the first class with an attached mini-bar. The seat folded out completely into a lie-flat bed. Very soon we were landing in Dubai. The sun was up and I looked out of the window at the sandy expanse below and marveled at man's enterprise that could turn this wasted desert land into a ultra-modern oasis of steel and glass with its fountains, green lawns, trees and flower-beds.

The Emirates First Class lounge at Dubai airport is very large and luxuriously appointed. There are multiple dining areas serving light snacks, a full dinner buffet, drinks and beverages. They even have a spa for those with more time to kill between flights. After dining on a Middle-Eastern version of the biryani - fragrant rice cooked with meats and spices and garnished with nuts - and some Mediterranean staples such as Hummus, Baba Ganoush and Pita bread I sat down with a cup of Royal Ceylon tea. Soon it was time to board the A380 - directly from the lounge level and into its upper level without having to get into the crowded general boarding area. I love this part of the Emirates upper class experience when you fly the A380 from Dubai or from JFK.

A pretty Korean flight attendant showed me to my private suite. Emirates First Class suites come with their own coat closets and you don't have to put your bags into overhead bins - there is ample space within the suite to store them. Soon the purser come up to introduce himself and ask me if there was anything I needed. The flight attendant returned with a elegant bag that contained a set of pajamas, an amenity kit, slippers and eye-shades. The suite itself was equipped with a mini-bar with sparkling and still water, fruit juices, etc. There was a basket of chocolate bars, mint and wafers and a vanity mirror with a set of skin-care products.

The seat itself is large but not as comfortable in the sitting position as Singapore Airlines. However, it is far more comfortable as a bed, especially with the down-filled pillow and duvet. As for the entertainment system, Emirates provides one of the largest selections: almost 400 channels including a good selection of Bollywood and world cinema. What I also enjoy are the three camera which let you look under, ahead and over the tail of the aircraft. This is especially good if you like watching take-offs and landings.

Food is served a la carte and on-demand. This is another very nice feature of first-class travel - not having to wait for the service to complete before you can get some peace and quiet. Therefore, even before the flight had taken off, I was changed out of my clothes into pajamas, a glass of Dom Perignon in hand, not able to feel as depressed as I should have been with the headlines on my copy of the Financial Times.

Another interesting Emirates touch: a serving of dates and Arabian coffee poured out of a long-necked traditional brass jug.

After we were airborne, my flight attendant came over to chat with me and explain the shower spa on-board for the use of first class passengers. I reserved a slot for 1.5 hours before landing. They have a couple of attendants to ready the shower-spa after every use, so you find it spotlessly clean when you enter. There are two of them - right at the front, on both sides of the large staircase that goes down to the lower deck of the aircraft.

The shower spa is probably three or four times the size of a regular aircraft restroom. A full-size basin, large mirrors, leather seating areas and a capsule-shaped shower stall are available here. A tray is filled up dozens of spa creams and lotions. The shower itself is timed - water will flow for a full five minutes, which I realized is more than enough.

When I was done showering, the spa girls had a cup of green tea with honey ready for me. In my suite I also found a plate of fruits waiting for me. Doesn't get any better than this, does it?

On landing, they handed out Quick Connect cards to those who had connections to catch within three hours. The card allowed me to breeze through the Express lanes in both Immigration and airport security at JFK. For those familiar with this airport, you can imagine how much of a boon this is!

Overall, this is probably the best flight experience I have had until now. One caution however, and that is related to service quality which can tend to be a little erratic on some trips. I think Singapore Airlines has a slight edge here as also in its dining options.

Pan Asian Delights at Red Zen

2011-11-19T14:30:00.010+05:30

Pan Asian cuisine seems to be the latest rage in Pune's dining scene. Red Zen, which opened at the new Courtyard, is probably the third restaurant in town that is helmed by an expat Thai chef. The Courtyard Pune City Center, the latest Marriott hotel to open, is located on Bund Garden Road right next to Jehangir Hospital. The restaurant has been tastefully designed with beautiful red lamps and a large granite counter in the center. An open kitchen in the back show-cases the cooking techniques from the Far East.

Red Zen was meant to be a noodle bar and I recommend you try their noodle meals. All the seven varieties on their menu looked interesting and the three we ordered turned out very good.

We took a table indoors. Since they haven't gotten their liquor licenses completed sorted out, we ordered cocktails. The chef soon sent a complimentary amuse: a nice little wonton in sweet chili sauce and slivers of onion and tomato. They also put some prawn crackers in front of us.

We began with an appetizer of Goong Hom Sabai, deep-fried prawns wrapped with noodles that was served with plum and sweet chili dips.

I had asked for the Mee Goreng, a complete Indonesian meal in a bowl consisting of stir-fried noodles, chicken satay, Ayam Goring - Indonesian fried chicken, kroepoek - Indonesian crackers with a fried egg on top and served with a spicy sambal.

My wife decided to try the Khanom Jeen Gaeng Kiew Waan Gai, a bowl of Thai rice noodles served with chicken green curry.

My daughter ordered the Laksa, one of my favorites. Laksa is a popular Malaysian noodle soup made with prawns and coconut milk and is served with a variety of toppings including chill, crisp fried onions, florets of cauliflower, sprouts, etc.

All three noodle meals were quite delicious and completely filling! Please remember these dishes are a complete meal by themselves.

In spite of being quite full, we had to try our favorite dessert in Thai restaurants, Tub Tim Krob. This lovely dessert was served to us in cocktail glasses: red rubies of water chestnut mingled with crushed ice in cold and sweetened coconut milk. They also brought us a variation that included lychees and ripe jackfruit along with the water chestnuts which I loved even more.

Service was excellent throughout with the young waitstaff eager to please. Given the quality of food on offer (and at reasonable prices too) I would have expected more people here on a Friday evening. I guess the hotel is new and its restaurants haven't been discovered by many of the local foodies yet.

Southern Style Cooking at Jackson 20

2011-11-12T19:07:00.004+05:30

Jackson 20 is named after the American president whose face adorns every $20 bill. Elegantly designed in the style of an old American tavern, the place exuded warmth on a cold evening. The gaint bronze pig in the center of the room and the whimsical pig-shaped napkin holders provide a clue to what is really special here: pork based items. In fact, they have a weekly pig-a-palooza event where a beautifully prepared whole roast pig takes center-stage as a band plays and bottles of wine are opened.

Jackson 20 is a restaurant located within Monaco Hotel, another lovely boutique property of the Kimpton group of hotels. Located in the heart of Old Town Alexandria on the outskirts of Washington DC, this hotel is only a short drive from Ronald Reagan international airport.

The restaurant was busy when I walked in. The hostess was a charming elderly lady who showed me to the table. My waitress took a few minutes to get to my table, but I was not in a hurry.

I sipped on their excellent Manhattan and watched the people around. Two varieties of corn bread arrived in front of me and they were amazingly good. There wasn't a crumb left by the time I was done!

The Oysters Rockefeller were excellent too: large Rappahannock oysters baked in herb-butter that left me feeling rather good, dissolving away some of my travel weariness.

I had ordered the North Carolina Catfish entree which turned out to be rather large, batter-fried and served on a bed of brown rice, gumbo sauce and crispy okra. Pretty good.

I ended with a Bread Pudding which was really good but also rather filling.

Overall Jackson 20 is a fun place for happy hours or dinner with friends and colleagues. I hope I am here next time during the Pig-a-palooza event so I can pig out on pig!

Toni Da Dhaba

2011-11-05T11:13:00.000+05:30

Toni Da Dhaba has been a unchanged fixture on the old Mumbai-Pune highway for a very long time. Old-timers will claim the quality has gone down while prices has gone up, but isn't this what old-timers say about every thing? So, one Saturday morning, when all we wanted to was get away and drive somewhere, I decided to take the older highway and head towards Lonawala for dhaba food.

The Old Highway is not only more interesting but also a comfortable ride given its tar-covered surface. It is at its prettiest during the monsoons, but even now there were long stretches where the roadsides were carpeted with brightly colored flowers. Beyond, swaying fields of barley and corn criss-crossed the undulating land in large geometric patterns with distant hills as its backdrop. This picture-perfect surroundings were interrupted only by the high-tension electric cables with their towers and the villages that dot the highway.

Toni Da Dhaba is located just before you enter the Lonawala region. They have a large open area for parking with a small play area for kids and an eating area that is open on all sides but covered overhead.

The lengthy menu contains kababs, Mughlai gravy-based dishes, tandoori breads and a selection of exotic fowl, among them emu and guinea fowl. They have a farm adjacent to the kids' playing area with ducks, emu, guinea fowl and turkeys on display. My daughter took a special interest in the emu and that put an end to my plan to order an emu dish here - she just wouldn't allow it!

We began with the Murgh Lasooni kababs which were pretty good: succulent with large flakes of garlic in the dish. The Dhania Murgh was a gravy based dish and worked well with the Tadka Dal and tandoori Roti. We stayed with the dhaba staples for today. We thought the food was pretty good.

The highlight of the meal turned out to be the Jalebis and Rabdi. Turns out these guys make some of the best jalebis in Pune. Prepared in desi ghee and accompanied with thick delicious rabdi, the jalebis were pure pleasure for a foodie with a sweet tooth!

For those curious about emu, this fowl is showing up on the plate in and around Pune. The meat itself can be mistaken for mutton - it is red and probably closer in taste to turkey. Tony Da Dhaba has a Emu Handi which is popular with roadies who stop by here on their way to Pune.

Barcelona: Gothic Quarters

2011-10-29T00:14:00.008+05:30

One of the charms of Europe is its well-preserved history. Being a history buff, I love ambling through those narrow, cobble-stoned alleys, trying to visualize how these old towns and city-square must have looked during their prime. I had spent the better part of a day traipsing through Gaudi’s unconventional buildings and monuments; and then on the last day here, I discovered the more familiar Gothic architecture in Barri Gotic. Barri Gotic is the center of what used to be the old city of Barcelona, with several buildings and churches dating back to the Roman empire. The most famous landmark here is the Cathedral of Santa Eulalia.

The Cathedral is large, impressive and still a functioning church. As the story goes, Saint Eulalia was actually a very young girl, they say thirteen, when she was killed by Roman soldiers in a barbaric manner. Another reminder of how much blood has been spilt in the name of religion over the ages. Apparently after several rounds of torture, she was stripped, put in a barrel with knives stuck into it, and then rolled down a street. The cloister within the walls of the cathedral still has thirteen white geese to remind people of her age when she was martyred.

We took a tiny elevator to the top of the cathedral to get a panoramic view of the surroundings before strolling down the alleys with their quaint little shops. Masks, antiques, clothing, jewellery, pastries and legs of Iberian ham jostled for attention. Sunlight barely entered these narrow alleys until we reached Plaça Reial, a square with several open air cafes.

After glasses of Sangria we continued on looking for a place to have lunch. We finally decided to try a tiny place called Meson Jesus. This family-run restaurant was exactly what we were looking for. We could see the owner busy chopping greens one one side, while red checkered table-cloth added color to the cosy little room filled with old artifacts. The menu was fixed but the food excellent. By the time we got done, the place was filled with locals – not one tourist in sight.

I started with chilled gazpacho which was so good! The main course was sausage with chips followed by a delicious dessert of Catalan Creme, a local version of Creme Brulee. The house wine and bread were pretty good too. Dare I say perfect? If you are in the Gotic area at lunch time, do try. Meson Jesus is located at C/ Cecs de la Boqueria, 4, 08002 Barcelona.

After spending some more time we walked out through a busy marketplace selling the most colourful spices and fruits with the ubiquitous legs of ham everywhere on display.

The spices and fruits reminded me it was the Spanish who brought so many of today’s staples into the rest of the world when they accidentally discovered the Americas. They went hunting for black pepper and nutmug but came back with chilli peppers, vanilla beans and tomatoes!

Previously in this series: Lip-Smacking Tapas & Paella

First in this series: In Catalan Country

Lip-smacking Tapas and Paella

2011-10-22T00:14:00.014+05:30

Tapas and paella formed the mainstay of my lunch and dinner experiences during this trip. Dining can be fun and memorable for reasons other than the quality of food. This was particularly true during this trip: friends and colleagues from distant places, jugs of chilled sangria and the briny breeze from the Mediterranean Sea - they conspired to make the most insipid dishes seem interesting! That said, there were a couple of stand-out dining experiences I must describe to you.

The first was Merendero de la Mari, with its al fresco seating overlooking the picturesque marina. With its killer location, this restaurant is always packed in the evenings with tourists and locals alike. They have a number of menu options - all good; however, you definitely want to try the Arros Negre and the Zarzuela here.

They started us with small plates of fried chilli peppers, prawns tempura, and battered squid. Every dish without fail was a delight on the palate. We had some fun popping chilli peppers into our mouth not knowing how hot the next one would be - I had to stop after the fifth or the sixth one set my mouth on fire!

Arros Negre is a version of the popular paella with an unique twist: cuttlefish and squid ink gives the dish its unique flavor and deep blue-black color. The cherry colored Baigorri Crianza, a red wine from this region paired very well with this amazing rice dish.

The Zarzuela, with a fine selection of seafood baked in fresh tomato sauce was another instant winner. The dish was characterized by the simplicity of its ingredients and highlighted the abundance of locally sourced sea-food.

Finally, for dessert, we ordered the Pijama 2011. This turned out to be a flan. Intrigued by the name, we asked the waitress who came back with the sous chef. He said the name came from the fact that this dessert used to be served in a large multi-layered portion. The joke was that if you finished the dish, you would be donning your pajamas soon: in the hospital or to take a nap!

The other outstanding place was the high-end tapas bar at the Ritz-Carlton. Chef Sergi Arola's eponymous restaurant takes traditional Catalan tapas offerings to a new high. With chic dining spaces in white and blue, five-star service and food reflecting of the chef's Michelin stars, this was an uniquely satisfying tapas experience for me.

They started us off by bringing toasted bread, fresh tomatoes, pods of garlic and olive oil. We then learnt how to rub the garlic and tomato pulp on to the bread, add a drop of olive oil to turn these simple ingredients into a very tasty appetizer.

The minced crab with homemade toast, candied sardines in olive oil, and the white shrimps accompanied by minced vegetables and guacamole were all very nice.

Then came plates of Filet Mignon tartar with a soy infusion and ginger, pork slices in dry sherry marinated with onions and sprouts, and the ubiquitous Iberian ham but in the form of mini-croquettes fried in olive-oil.

We ordered a dish of octopus along with the 'Arola Bravas' potatoes fried and filled with chilli sauce and garlic mayonnaise and cod fritters.

We ended this fabulous dinner with a dessert of white chocolate cream with passion yogurt and melon followed by Coffee and Bailey's: Bailey's cream, coffee ice-cream and black chocolate sauce.

Previously in this series: Tasting Ferran Adria
Next in this series: Barcelona's Gothic Quarters

Tasting Ferran Adria

2011-10-15T00:04:00.009+05:30

In the world of cutting edge, avante grade cuisine, there is no name held in higher esteem than Ferran Adria. The man credited for elevating Spain to its pinnacle in the world of fine dining, turning molecular gastronomy into a buzzword, creating culinary foam, and for making El Bulli the #1 restaurant in the planet for foodies. Recently, Ferran announced his intention to close El Bulli so he can spend his time on other things; however, he will continue to cater to his fans through two small, casual but upscale places in Barcelona. Tickets is Ferran Adria's take on a tapas bar which is located beside 41 Degrees, his spin on a chic cocktail bar that serves several of his El Bulli classics. As you can imagine these are currently the most happening dining spots in town!

You enter 41 Degrees through Tickets and past a curtain in the bar. Tickets itself is designed like one of those old world theaters - a host in top hat out front, bright neon lights, the works. The bar is named for the latitude on which Barcelona lies and is designed to look like the intimate backstage hangout to Ticket's spotlit center stage.

The low slung chairs, the bull skulls on the walls, and the restaurant logo projected on the dark walls all contribute to the atmosphere here. The extensive cocktail menu has a selection of Ferran Adria's speciality creations. I cannot remember the names of the cocktail I tried, but they were beautiful.

We ordered a variety of food including the famous liquid olives, oyster with lychee nectar and horseradish iceberg, oysters with miso and black garlic, and the oysters with spicy chicken consume and kimchi. The liquid olives were as delightful as we expected, bursting in our mouth with flavorful olive oil. The oysters were very creative and we loved the flavors we tasted.

The Pistachios in Tart Yogurt was a work of art. Pistachios wrapped in a delicate lattice of dried sweet yogurt that was served in something that looked like a dead tree trunk in the miniature.

The fried fish reminded me of the prawn wafers you get in Asian restaurants. The fish seem to have been powdered and re-created in a wafer form. Then there was a rendition of a deconstructed sushi. As expected, every dish had an unexpected twist - with the taste and texture very different from what you would expect by looking at it.

Finally, we brought the dinner to an end with yummy macarons and melt-in-the-mouth profiteroles flavored with black currant and anise.

For those of you who wish to try 41 degrees, remember that the only way to get a seat is through their website. Having only been open for the last few months, both this restaurant continues to be hottest ticket in town.

Previous in this series: Gaudi City
Next in this series: Lip-Smacking Tapas and Paella

Gaudi City

2011-10-09T23:56:00.008+05:30

You cannot ignore Gaudi when in Barcelona. His highly imaginative buildings spread all over this city are a magnet for students of architecture and tourists alike. Antoni Gaudi was a Spanish Catalan architect whose highly distinct form of design drove the trend towards Moderisme during the late 19th century. While it was common for architects during that time to combine their passions for architecture and religion into their creations, Gaudi also added his love for nature into the mix.

When I stood in front of Casa Batllo, one Gaudi's iconic creations, the first thought that entered my head was, "Goodness, is this what inspired the creators of Aliens or Predator when they built their alien worlds?" Casa Batllo and much of Gaudi's work makes liberal use of structural elements that are inspired from animal and plant life. However, you can see they are brilliantly functional too. Casa Batllo, a multi-storied apartment complex is designed to be airy and well-lit. I couldn't see a straight line anywhere - the entire structure seemed to be designed with organic, wavy curved surfaces.

Casa Mila is another of his biomorphic creations that was commissioned by a rich businessman. The curved, undulating balconies with their wrought iron decorations are completely unconventional. Like Casa Battla, this building too was designed to allow natural lighting and air into all rooms. The terrace tops of both Casa Batllo and Casa Mila are equally sensational with their surrealistic chimneys and ceramic tile work.

All that walking and climbing stairs had made us hungry. For lunch, we located a nice little tapas place called Madrid-Barcelona close by. Lunch hours begin late in Barcelona and so the restaurant was completely empty at 1 PM. It felt good resting our feet before heading to Gaudi's magnum opus, the Sagrada Familia.

A procession of small plates arrived on our table in quick succession: toasted bread rubbed with tomatoes, black olive croquettes, cone of fried shrimps, scrambled eggs with mushroom and vegetables, clams, fried baby squid, cod with chanterelle honey, Catalan sausage with ratatouille and a chocolate cake. Yes, Barcelona is just the place for foodies!

We took the Metro to Sagrada Familia. It was still early in the afternoon and the long line of people waiting to get in was disconserting. However, the line moved quickly and we found ourselves inside one of the most awe-inspiring buildings I have ever laid my eyes on. Gaudi probably spent over 40 years of his life working on this structure alone and died before seeing it complete. Now, a group of architects are trying to complete this famous Barcelona landmark with the help of donations.

Sagrada Familia is a church and therefore crammed with figures depicting scenes from the Bible. One side of the exterior is themed with the birth of Christ, while the other with his Crucification. I found the former ugly especially from a distance . However, the detailing is quite fascinating from up close. What I really found magnificent were the interiors of this church. Both the structural design and aesthetics were quite simply breathtaking and out-of-the-world.

We ended the day with chilled glasses of Sangria and more tapas. This time with platters of Iberian ham, grilled sardines, shrimps, followed by seafood paella.

On another day, we took the Metro and then walked up a steep hillside to visit another one of the Gaudi landmarks, Park Güell. This garden complex is build around several interesting architectural elements, one of which is a salamander decorated with ceramic tiles. A flamenco dancer showed off her moves in return for a few coins for the passers-by as school-children giggled and ran around.

After Gaudi's death in 1926, his work was ignored for a while. Critics regarded them as baroque and excessively imaginative. However, his reputation began to recover during the 50s when Salvador Dali and others championed his works. I suspect his works have inspired more than one creation at Disney's parks and Hollywood movies over the years!

Previous in this series: In Catalan Country
Next in this series: Tasting Ferran Adria

In Catalan Country

2011-10-02T23:20:00.008+05:30

I almost did not make it to Barcelona. The Spanish consulate insisted they needed more time to process my visa - something I did not have since I was flying out that weekend to the USA. Just when I had given up, they handed me my passport with the visa - one day before my flight. And what a trip it has been!

I flew into Barcelona on a Lufthansa flight late in the night. By the time I had checked in and taken a shower, it was close to midnight and I was thinking of ordering room service. But then I looked out of the window. Down below I could see cafes open and packed with people. It seemed too good to pass up. During the week I spent here, I would discover several uniquely delightful things about Barcelona, including the fact that dinners begin late and continue well past midnight!

This was my very first trip to Spain and the first discovery I made was Barcelona wasn't Spanish speaking! The local language, Catalan, is very distinct and shares a few words with French. My limo driver, a young man from Valencia, gave me some quick facts about the city. While the city has a population of about 1.5 million people, the cruise ships bring in almost the same number of tourists every year. As he put it, Barcelona is the Bahamas of Europe.

I took a table outdoors surrounded by tourists and locals who had come out of the nearby shopping mall to grab some dinner. A cool breeze blew from the ocean nearby. I ordered their red house wine, a selection of Iberian ham and a seafood paella.

The Hilton on Diagonal Mar turned out to an excellent choice. While the location is not central, it is right on the oceanside and has easy access to the Metro station. The large shopping mall opposite the hotel also provides several small tapas places for a quick bite. My room was airy and comfortable with panoramic views of the city and the ocean. The lounge on the executive floor is another nice location to work or laze around with the sea-breeze blowing on the open terrace.

I found a good amount of time to do the tourist routine here. While Barcelona has many attractions - history, architecture, food and wine - one needs to be aware of the seamier side of this lovely city. With unemployment rampant, criminal activities are on the rise. Be wary of pickpockets - there are several incidents of mugging and thefts, especially in crowded areas. If you are in the wrong side of La Rambla in the late evenings, you may be accosted by pimps, prostitutes or drug peddlers openly. To be fair, I haven't heard of violent crime involving tourists.

Next in this series: Gaudi City

Dakshin Darshan

2011-09-17T21:10:00.002+05:30

On my way to the USA, I had a quick dinner at Dakshin, the speciality South Indian restaurant of the ITC Maratha at Mumbai. Here are a couple of pictures from this delightful South Indian restaurant. The mini-dosas they serve as starters are a fun sampling before the actual meal: one was a pesaruttu, made of different varieties of lentils, another made from bananas and dates, and the third of the regular variety.

The dinner itself was fiery, hearty and left me feeling very full - like a good South Indian meal ought to! But it is the small touches like the dosa sampler and the 'filter coffee' served in stainless steel that brought a smile to my face.

I remember how they served coffee at the Udupi restaurants in Mysore where I spent much of childhood. The waiter would swiftly go from table to table balancing dozens of stainless steel cups of hot, steaming coffee. At the table, he would create a froth in every cup by quickly pouring the coffee to and fro between two cups - one held high up and another low down - with the panache of an expert bartender mixing cocktails.

Castro Street: New Dining Options

2011-09-10T20:08:00.005+05:30

Castro Street is the best known dining location if you are in the Mountain View area in the heart of Silicon Valley. On a recent visit, I realized there have been several new restaurant openings, and some are really worth a visit.

Zucca Ristorante opened a few months back bringing new life to Mediterranean cuisine in this bustling tech town. Gary Danko protege Paul Cohen brings some real winners from Greece, Italy and Turkey on to your plate right here in California, at affordable prices to boot!

We chose from a variety of small plates and everything worked for me; the evening passed by pretty quickly as we talked, people watched and savored the cuisine.

The next day we were at Scratch, where they specialize in upscale versions of homey food. Here our expectations were higher but disappointment set in quickly. It was evident there are still getting their act together, so I will probably give them some time before I revisit.

We started out on a good note with the Oysters Rockefeller delightfully created of baked oysters, creamed spinach, Pernod, leeks and herbed brioche crumbs. Even the crab cake was pretty good as was the buttery, Bourbon glazed pork belly served on grits, braised greens and honey-glazed pears.

The twice-baked goat cheese souffle has toasted hazelnuts, green beans and heirloom apples which sounded more promising than on the palate.

Then began the disappointments. The entree of the center-cut Rib Eye was very mediocre. Most of the wine selections on the list were not available on that day. More importantly, our waiter could not open wine bottles cleanly resulting in bits of cork in our drinks.

Another place I am hoping to try soon is Xahn which serves up Vietnamese Fusion cuisine in a chic, contemporary setting. We almost made it there for a dinner, but then decided to choose Cascal - another of my Silicon Valley favorites.

In N Out in LA

2011-09-03T22:51:00.006+05:30

I finally completed another foodie milestone - by eating at In N Out. What looks like another burger chain is actually a California institution with legions of fans who swear by their burgers. The company's dedication to fresh ingredients is reflected in the fact that they do not freeze their meat patties or produce that goes into their burgers.

I walked into the brightly colored red and yellow fast food restaurant in Los Angeles. I was connecting onward to my long flight back home, and I looked up In N Out on Google Maps, and there it was - within walking distance of my airport hotel. Turned out to be a great idea because the aircraft landing at LAX fly right overhead which makes for a great experience - especially in our post-9/11 world where you can no longer approach airstrips to watch flights take-off and land.

In N Out itself was no different from the usual McDonald's and Burger Kings outlets, other than the fact that their employees seem to be happier and actually sported a smile when serving you.

I ordered a single-single burger animal style. Now here's the cool stuff: While they keep their menu simple with only few items on it: Hamburger, Cheeseburger, Double-Double and French Fries, there is an extensive hidden menu for those in the know.

Check out Badmouth's blog for the most definitive list of hidden items you can order here. What you definitely need to try is their burgers done 'animal style'. The other must-have item on the hidden menu is the Neopolitan shake.

Who would have thought you can have so much fun with less than $10 spent on the experience? And the food is probably fresher and healthier than the usual chain burgers.

Eating Ralph Lauren in Chicago

2011-08-20T22:38:00.002+05:30

You may have worn Ralph Lauren, but have you eaten at his restaurant? That's correct. Fashion designers apparently are no longer content to sell you expensive clothes; they now intend to wine and dine you too. Right below the imposing structure of The Peninsula in Chicago, Ralph Lauren has what is supposed to be the largest store for their Polo branded clothing and accessories. RL is located right next to the store. A fashionable but casual place that is said to be one of Oprah Winfrey's favorite spots, this restaurant serves what they call city-club cuisine.

I popped in for a quick lunch one day. The restaurant was quite busy but I was able to immediately get a seat at the bar where they offer the full menu. The restaurant is all wood with framed pictures on wood paneled walls, comfortable leather couches and dark furniture. You could also sit in the patio to dine in shaded comfort outdoors.

Having done my quick research, I ordered a cup of their popular lobster bisque followed by the RL Burger with Angus beef and extra mushrooms.

The bisque was very good with chunks of lobster in the thick, creamy soup. But it was the RL Burger that stole the show. Nice and juicy, the buns and the quality of meat made all the difference.

After the filling lunch at RL's I decided to get a bird's eye view from Hancock Observatory, on the 94th floor of the John Hancock Center - only a few blocks from my hotel. Going up in what much be one of the fastest elevators took less than a minute.

The view from the top was amazing. The lakes, the downtown - several skyscrapers now looked small when seen from up above, and the surrounding vistas were a sight to behold. After taking my time here, I walked back to the comfort of my hotel room. Here are a few pictures of my room at The Peninsula, Chicago.

This trip was mostly business and I didn't have time to venture too far from my hotel. Hopefully, I will be back here with more time to spare and maybe I will even manage a dinner reservation at Alinea. Let's see!

The Foodie in Chicago

2011-08-19T14:14:00.001+05:30

This was my first visit to Chicago. The windy city is known for several things - including the fact that President Obama calls this city his home. But for the foodie, this city stands out for its celebrity chefs such as Grant Achatz - whose restaurant Alinea has been consistently voted as the best in the USA, as well as for its deep-dish pizzas and unique take on hot dogs.

Chicago is also the city which began the modern craze for skyscrapers. Nowhere is this more evident that in the downtown area where my hotel, The Peninsula, was located. This is an area popularly known as The Magnificent Mile - home to some of the most prestigious hotels, businesses and shopping areas. The Peninsula turned out to be among the most opulent hotels I have stayed in within the United States. The room and the lobby area reminded me of the Ritz Carlton in Tokyo.

Outside, it was a lovely warm day. The old Water Tower stood with dignity amidst the newer, taller steel and glass skyscrapers. This building has stood since the mid-19th century and was built to help fight fires. The Water Tower was also one of the few buildings to survive the Great Chicago Fire of 1871.

I wolfed down a large slice of Giordano's stuffed pizza for bragging rights. For those of you pizza lovers who have more time than I did, here's a list of the best pizza places in this city.

Back in my room, I considered my dinner options. By now, my jet-lag was hitting me and I decided to stick to the hotel's own restaurants. The Peninsula is home to several fine-dining restaurants, but the piece de resistance is clearly Avenues. This two-Michelin starred place has been making waves with its cutting edge cuisine; unfortunately, this restaurant would be closed during the entire time of my stay here.

I finally decided to have dinner at The Lobby. The entire dining experience turned out to be quite extraordinary. I sat by the large windows overlooking the Magnificent Mile as a large silvery moon rose in the skies. I ordered a Riesling and nibbled on some very good bread. The waiter surprised me with two different amuse bouches: a creatively rendered version of ceviche that I loved, and the other, a soup of what appeared to be fresh corn kernels but turned out to be kernels that had been freeze-dried into a crispy taste without losing its looks. Nice!

The Summer Truffle Ravioli with Lobster, chanterelles and braised carrots was very good. Lavish shavings of truffle over the ravioli imparted a delightfully intense flavor. The chanterelles, a kind of fungus with a mild fruity smell and a peppery taste rounded off the dish very well.

The Wild Alaskan Halibut with Seafood Cassoulet, Smoked Bacon and Lobster Broth was quite delightful too. The rich, slow-cooked bean stew was made interesting with baby octopus and squid.

I ended with a fantastic Peninsula Coffee. Served in a wine glass, the coffee with Grand Mariner and Godiva chocolate was served hot was quite divine.

Manhattan Mania

2011-08-07T09:18:00.005+05:30

I stopped for a night in New York City after flying in from India. I had bought my first SLR in Singapore during the transit stop - a Canon Rebel T3i/EOS 600D. Eager to try my skills with the new camera, I walked out towards Byrant Park in the evening. Among the most pleasant areas today to spend a lazy evening, this park has quite a history.

George Washington and his troops passed over this area when he retreated from the Battle of Long Island. Also, Byrant Park was once a graveyard for the poor, while in the 70s the park had been taken over by prostitutes and drug addicts. However, now it is picture perfect in the evenings.

I soon found myself in front of Grand Central Station. It was close to dinner time, so I strolled into Ammos for some Greek food.

The dolmades were served warm and turned out pretty good. The sea-food risotto, on the other hand, wasn't particularly memorable. While the tiger prawns and scallops tasted good, the rice was over-cooked.

Handling the hefty camera wasn't easy when taking food pictures and I was missing my trusty S90 already!

It was dark now as I retraced my path and walked past my hotel to Times Square. As always, Times Square was filled with the usual hordes of tourists. I always feel a sense of excitement being here - the heart of New York City - a sight seen so many times in movies, a place familiar to me even before I ever traveled to the United States.

I strolled around taking in the sights and as drops of rains began to fall, I hurried back to my hotel. I had a morning flight to catch for Chicago.

La Piazza at The Delhi Hyatt

2011-08-02T15:19:00.006+05:30

The Hyatt Regency hotel in New Delhi has been around for a long time. I have passed by this hotel so many times when I lived in New Delhi - but eating at five-star restaurants was a luxury I afforded myself only infrequently during those days. Having now stayed at this hotel, I can say that the restaurants are far better here than the rooms. And La Piazza is definitely one of the better Italian restaurants I have eaten in.

From the people eating here during peak dining hours, I could see this restaurant was popular with the locals. The trattoria style restaurant caters to a variety of people - from the serious foodie to the conservative Indian diner who restricts himself to pizzas and pastas.

Designed to look like a village square with a large open kitchen on one side, the interiors exuded a warm casual feeling. The tiles on the floor and the pots and pans hanging around all added to the ambiance.

I ordered an Italian red wine to go with my Potato Gnocchi. The gnocchi was lovingly prepared - oh so soft and melt-in-your-mouth. I followed with a grilled chicken wrapped in ham. This too was amazing with its cheesy interiors and robust, salty ham wrapping coming together splendidly.

Incidentally, gnocchi has existed as a traditional Italian pasta from a very long time. Said to have its roots in the Middle East, the Romans introduced this dish during the expansion of their empire into North Africa. In those days, gnocchi was made from semolina and eggs. Potato gnocchi is a far more recent culinary innovation. Apparently red potatoes make the best gnocchi.

All-in-all, La Piazza is a great place for a business dinner, a good time with family or even for a quick bite of pizza and beer. Service is fast and efficient and the place stays busy but not crowded through the evenings. Try this place if you are in the mood for Italian food in New Delhi.