Traveller's Tales

China House @ Mumbai

2010-03-10T16:39:00.002+05:30

After a day full of meetings and calls, I decided to go down to the excellent China House at The Grand Hyatt in Mumbai for a drink and a quick dinner. This time I took a seat at the bar, getting a chance to both watch the bartender go about his business of mixing some interesting cocktails, but also to get a chance to obverse the Chinese chefs hard at work turning out dim-sums and roast duck with equal panache at the open kitchens right opposite my vantage point.

My appletini was served with bowls of spicy glass noodles and boiled peanuts. Both of them addiction forming! The wet towel was a welcome touch, especially since I had just come in from the hot and humid Mumbai streets.

Steamed cystal prawn dumplings were excellent. Delicate wrapping, fresh prawns with light spices and crab apple (?), served steaming.

Sichuan chilly chicken with peppercorns and green onions was good but not for the fussy eater. Loads of red chillies and cashews made up this dish.

Sichuan seafood noodles with spicy sauce and vegetables seemed a wee bit too oily which took away from the natural flavors and taste of the seafood.

The Jasmine tea-ramisu (!) provided a fantastic ending. This green-tea flavored tiramisu was served with home made orange-vanilla ice-cream.

China House is an excellent choice for upscale Chinese cuisine in Mumbai. The ambiance is particularly unique with show kitchens, a variety of seating areas, and an exciting bar area. The decor and service matches the high quality of the food served here. This is a place to see and be seen, especially on weekend evenings.

Haute and Hauter - Part III

2010-03-07T15:08:00.007+05:30

I was back at the Fifth Floor in San Francisco for a taste of Jennie Lorenzo's New American cuisine, a change from the French inspired creations on the menu until last year. Simpler sauces, fresh veggies and...well, not very unlike New French cuisine that's the rage in Paris.

The crudo - raw is in vogue now - of tuna was pretty good and the transparent green caviar that came on it burst and crackled delightfully in the palate. The zest provided by gratings of Buddha's hand - an unique citrius fruit I only learnt of recently.

The pork belly was superb and different from last time's presentation. This dish was prepared with brussels sprouts, fennel, cauliflower and truffle sauce. Absolutely lip-smacking!

Duck was good too. Today's presentation was of seared duck breast marinated in sake with Savoy cabbage, braised duck leg and spiced oil with a hint of citrus.

During my last visit to Paris, I realized that French chefs have been experimenting with veggies in earnest and cooking with a lighter hand than ever before. Alain Passard at L'Arpege and Yannick Alleno of Le Meurice are two examples of this trend. Alleno, who recieved his third star only this year, is known for his light touch, teasing out flavors from fresh meat, fish and greens at his opulent restaurant on Rue de Rivoli near Place de la Concorde.

Back to my dinner at the Fifth Floor. The soup which had materialized in front of me had elements of Waldorf salad but in a steaming walnut-pine cream concoction. The fruit slices contrasted nicely with the warm soup in my mouth.

The stuffed chicken was another winner with a perfect balance of creativity, taste and presentation. It comprised of leeks soubise, pine-nut, arugula among other things.

I also loved the fried doughnuts with ice-cream. The doughnuts tasted like Indian Gujiya which is widely served during the Indian festival of colors, Holi.

The Fifth Floor continues to delight, even as its menu has evolved. The restaurant has a lively atmosphere during the evenings. Their breads are stand-outs too and their wine menu is extensive. Finally, we are beginning to see more and more creative women take up the Executive Chef's hat in Haute California and I am hoping this trend will show up in France too!

Prev Post in this series: Haute in California.

PS: You can find my other visits to the Fifth Floor here and here.

Delightfully Delhi

2010-02-27T10:20:00.000+05:30

I was back at the Taipan for dinner during another quick trip to New Delhi. The last time, I had indulged in their excellent dimsum lunch offering. Tonight I wasn't very hungry and decided to have some soup, noodles and a small dessert. The prawn dumpling soup was steaming hot and tasty, a very pleasant start in the cold Delhi winter. The noodles stirred with greens made for a good combination with prawns and green chillies.

The Oberoi in New Delhi may not have roominess of the newer hotels. but it more than makes up with its class, old world charm and impeccible service.

Even ThreeSixty their all-day restaurant serves up some delightful buffet lunches and a mean platter of kababs and dum biryani. Threesixty has a lovely Indian lunch offering that includes home-made chapatis, a rarity in restaurants. During breakfast, I had to indulge in those incredibly puffed up pooris.

Among the five-star circuit, one of the best buffet lunches I have recently tried was at The Lalit in Connaught Place. This hotel which has seen multiple names changes in the last two decades, has been renovated with an impressive-looking lobby that has an M. F. Hussain and a Satish Gujral sculpture. The lunch buffet at the lobby cafe is amongst the best I have seen.

A sumptuous spread of Indian, Oriental and Western cuisine - every dish tastefully created. Not something you find in buffet lunches. Even the dessert selection was fantastic.

Haute in California - Part II

2010-02-10T17:07:00.005+05:30

The Michelin Guide has been a barometer of haute cuisine in modern times. When the Michelin brothers began publishing this guide in 1900, cars were rapidly changing the landscapes of the western world. The little red book soon became the authority for discerning foodies in France and other European countries who could now reach acclaimed eating places out of town. Chefs reached highs and lows of their careers as they were awarded Michelin stars or had their stars taken away.

Michelin began covering New York City and the Bay Area a few years back. In the recently released 2010 guide, a new reciepient of the Michelin star is Luce. Luce (pronounced Loo-chay) is located within the Intercontinental Hotel in the SoMa area of San Francisco. Chef Dominique Crenn draws inspiration from contemporary French and Asian cuisine and blends them with local flavors. The decor is simple and elegant with high ceilings and polished surfaces. I began with a stack of Casco Bay Bouchot Mussels in lobster broth. A slice of sourdough with rouille was placed on top of the stack. The gleaming black mussels made for a pretty sight! The garlic and olive-oil tastes from the rouille combined perfectly with the flavors of lobster as I soaked my bread into the goodness of the broth between nibbles of mussel.

Elaborate food arrangements were practiced as early as the middle ages. Kings and nobles were often presented with extravagent creations such as pies baked with live blackbirds (remember that old nursery rhyme: Sing a song of sixpence?), beautiful specimen of peacock and swan with their feathers still intact but stuffed with meat, dry fruit and spices. You can see scenes depicting this in the TV serial on the life of Henry VIII, The Tudors.

My main course was in front of me now. The Branzini is a Mediterranean sea-bass. The Branzini in front of me was an exquisite presentation on a dark slab of wood, with artichokes Provencale, sauce Romesco, roasted chickpeas and chaat masala. The fish was fried very like we do in Bengal and the chickpeas and chaat masala gave it a distinct Indian twist. The taste of olive oil, garlic and peppers in the sauce blended well with the flavors of the fish.

Incidentally, British experimental chef Heston Blumenthal attempted to recreate the blackbird pie for his TV series. Upon discovering that blackbirds were a protected species in the UK, he switched the recipe to pigeon. The pie and pie lid were cooked separately and allowed to cool. The live pigeons were inserted only moments before presentation. Initial attempts resulted in the pigeons refusing to fly out. This was solved by using trained homing pigeons to fly to their cages suspended in the ceiling, whereupon they defecated on the celebrity diners beneath.

I ended my lunch at Luce with an exotic dessert, a coconut-guave parfait. This one was a winner too! The combination of guava and coconut was fantastic. This restaurant certainly deserves its reputation. The service is efficient and the atmosphere casual. The highlights are clearly the food and presentation, commonly categorized as New American cuisine.

As vegetables and fresh ingredients finally became fashionable again in America in the late 90s, and immigrants from Asian and Latin American influences . Californian cuisine became synonymous with fresh and organic vegetables and meat sourced from farmers' markets with a strong attention to presentation. Jerimiah Towers, and Alice Waters of Chez Panisse along with Wolfgang Puck are credited to popularizing this cuisine.

Chef Dominique Crenn appears to be a worthy addition to the pack of super chefs this region continues to produce.

I discovered an interesting place in San Jose's Santana Row. LB Steak is a steakhouse with French inspiration! Combining comfortable and elegant French chic in the heart of Silicon Valley, this is a swankier, hip version of the American steakhouse. The menu ranges from great small plates to impressive steaks with all the sides. A few of the pictures in this post are of this restaurant and of the 12oz Prime Ribeye I ordered, with green peppercorn sauce and a side of sliced baked potatoes topped with cheese and capers. A meal that celebrates the journey of haute from France to the farthest coast of America.

Next in this series: More hauteness in California.
Part I of this series: Haute in Michael Mina

Pune Dining: TGKF, Shikara & The Ship

2010-02-07T15:02:00.001+05:30

We finally made our way to the newly opened Radisson to check out The Great Kabab Factory. The restaurant differs in look and feel from its Delhi and Chennai counterparts. More airy and larger, the tables more spaced out, and the tableware not as interesting.

Thankfully, the kababs and biryani more than make up for it. The signature Gilauti Kabab on an ulte tawa paratha was as fragrant with its heady mix of spices as I remember it. Their version of the Tangdi Kabab was absolutely fabulous too. I wasn't too excited by the Amritsari Mahi Tikka but enjoyed the Sheermal and Bakarkhani -speciality breads - with their version of Black Dal. Next came the Dum Gosht Biryani and the finale: a dessert selection that comprised of Gulab Jamums, Rasmalai and Teeli Wali Kulfi - kulfi on a stick.

Overall the food here is every bit as authentic its original Delhi avatar. The Radission itself is a welcome addition for people in this part of town: a short drive for those in the Kalyani Nagar and Koregaon Park area. By the time we walked out after dinner, a trio of Philipino (?) girls in itsy-bitsy dresses were belting out a number in the lobby. The bar area was unimaginative and didn't seem very exciting.

The Radission Hotel in Pune is located in Kharadi. The easiest way to get there is by Nagar Road; keep going past Kalyani Nagar, Viman Nagar and turn right into the large divided road that goes all the way to Magarpatta. The Radisson sign is visible from a distance and is on the left hand side of the road. Ph: 2706 0606. Website.

Shikhara shares space with the newly opened Cafe Zaatar and is located on the terrace atop Casanova in Kalyani Nagar. From what I could see, this is one restaurant with two names and two menus! Persian themed tents covered the tables and a hookah occupied pride of place on the tables. The entire place seemed set up like a casual lounge rather than a fine-dining restaurant.

The food, however, was a revelation. While Tabak Maaz was on the menu, we wanted something less oily. We chose a Zafrani Boti Kabab - tender mutton pieces delicately marinated in saffron infused spices and barbequed, a Chakori Kabab - chicken marinated with fenugreek leaves along with herbs and barbequed over charcoal, and followed with Gushtaba - a Kashmiri delicacy of finely minced mutton-balls in yogurt gravy. The kababs were excellent and the Gustaba was the best I have had in Pune.

We ended with a dessert of Baklava - I guess this was from the Cafe Zaatar menu! However, the Baklava was quite good, richly doused with syrup and dry fruits, and came with a scoop of delicious rose-flavored ice-cream. Ph: 26608888. Website.

I was back at Malaka Spice for dinner. This time we took a table in the outdoor area which has a far more interesting ambiance. This restaurant is clearly a labor of love for the owners and the food continues to delight. You must try the excellent sour and gingery Assam Laksa seafood soup with noodles and fish, a Malaysian staple. We skipped the starters tonight. The slow-cooked mutton in a red paste from Indonesia was a perfect companion to the Mee Goreng, Malaysian spicy noodles stir0-fried with chilli, sprouts, and vegetables. Very nice! Ph: 26156293, 26151088. Website.

The weekend buffets at Mainland China on Boat Club Road retains its quality. However, it helps to start early since this popular place becomes madly crowded after 1 PM. We were seated at 12:30 pm when people were just trickling in. The variety on offer was impressive and included crab, prawns and fish in the main courses. Starters included dim-sums and other delights. Ph:66013030. Website.

Finally, The Ship in Kalyani Nagar. I had always loved the concept and the food. Among the few places that serves a variety of International cuisine with an eye on presentation, this restaurant has a lively bar area and a brand new open-air lounge on the terrace. The restaurant has changed owners but continues to be popular with the expat crowd in the evening hours. Visit this place for their excellent grills, seafood, pasta and desserts. The music is usually retro and the ambiance casual.

Haute in California - Part I

2010-01-31T13:12:00.017+05:30

I sat back swirling the honeyed richness of a sip of Riesling in my mouth and admired the opulent interiors of Micheal Mina. As I watched the army of waitstaff go about in quiet efficiency, I contemplated on the storied journey of haute cuisine.

France is widely credited for the elevating Western cuisine into a sophisticated, multi-sensory form of indulgence with its complex sauces, artful presentation and well-defined courses. But all that did not happen over a day. During the medieval times, feasts were common among the high and mighty. Multiple courses of food were prepared but always served together. Eating with bare hands were the norm then. These banquets always ended with a selection of desserts, cheese and spiced wines. Towards the later years, royal cooks such as Taillevent became celebrities and wrote influencial cookbooks.

I was brought back to the present as the first course of my dinner arrived. I had chosen the three-course prix fixe menu that employs Mina's famous 'trio' concept and includes dishes that have become classics at this restaurant over the years. The trio of Wolfe Ranch quail in front of me looked exquisite! The first preparation was a herb-roasted breast with poached prune and sauce perigourdin, the second a leg confit jombonnette with pomegranate aioli and frisse salad, and the third was seared foie gras with persimmo coulis and pistachio butter. The variation of texture and taste from the crispness of the breast to the soft fleshy confit and finally the soft decadence of foie gras made for an amazing start.

France's famous haute cuisine took roots during the 17th century. This was a time when the guilds had evolved: a system that regulated the food industry and forced specialization among food vendors and establishments. You could now be a butcher, a grocer or a baker but had to stick to only one thing. This was also the time when French cuisine began changing dramatically. Heavy and exotic spices from distant places were passe. They were replaced by natural flavors and local herbs. Cooks began focusing on enhancing the taste and flavor of meat and vegetables instead of masking them; freshness of the key ingredients attained primacy during this time.

My second course was in front of me now: the Trio of Fatty Pigs. A Tenderloin with shnitzel and spatzle that reminded me of Austria, a Short Rib with braised cabbage and poached quince, and Braised Shoulder with potato rosti and apple mustard. The pork was a medley of tastes and textures. Very exciting, especially the crisply braised shoulder! Also very filling with all that meat and thick sauces.

It was only in the late 19th century that haute cuisine in France became organized into its currently recognizable form. Escoffier who was a central culinary figure during this time is acknowledged as the man behind modern restaurant kitchens of the West. He divided the kitchen into five stations: one each for the cold dishes, the starches and vegetables, the sauces, the roasts, and the desserts. Cooking beame team-work even when preparing a single dish. The great hotels that were built during this time over Europe and America became home for chefs that were eager to please discerning modern palates. Americans took time to embrace French cooking. During the colonial days, Americans had a distinct disdain for French cooking techniques and that continued for some time.

Course Three tonight was pastry chef Catherine Schimenti's Dessert Trio: Buttermilk panna cotta with lemon, huckleberry-ginger ice-cream, Chocolate mousse cake with salted caramel and mascarpone, and Squash cheesecake with rosemary and honey pine-nut. The panna cotta and the cheesecake were particularly delightful!

I must also mention the amuse bouches at Michael Mina tonight: a trio of seafood delicacies that included a gazpacho, a shrimp salad and was followed by an excellent Hearts of Palm Salad that had a nice and tangy taste of grapefruit. Hopefully, Michael Mina will continue to delight in spite of a recent setback - losing one star in the recently published 2010 Michelin Guide.

As French haute cuisine made its way across the Atlantic to the New World, French cooking itself underwent change during the 20th century. War and Portuguese immigrants brought in new ingredients and new flavors. Nouvelle - new - cuisine came into being with simpler sauces and increased emphasis on presentation. Back the USA, the popularity of Julia Child's books and television shows finally brought what was once the cuisine of aristocracy to everyday Joe's dining table.

Coming next in this series: New American Cuisine and Luce in San Francisco.

Grilled Delights at West View

2010-01-22T10:14:00.008+05:30

The West View at The Maratha has been the most satisfying culinary discovery in a while! This traditional western grill in Mumbai has an innovative concept that does away with the printed menu altogether. Marinated, herbed and spiced meats are tastefully laid out on a buffet-style counter as are the many appetizers. You can choose all that you like and the chef will grill the mix to your liking.

I started with a visit to the Cold Table and choose from a selection of artisan cheeses, fresh salads, and delicately fashioned vegetarian and meat-based hors-d'ouevres.

My waitress recommended I select the meats right away so they could have them grilled by the time I finish my appetizers. The long table full of meats looked mouth-watering as I went around trying hard not to be too greedy. :)

There were dozens of meats, seafood and other vegetarian stuff from which to select from. Every one of them looked good.

Then I sat down to sample my appetizers and the soup of the day, a clear sea-food soup. All the other tables were occupied by Westerners tonight. Not many Indians have developed a taste for the Western grill apparently, even in Mumbai. My soup was delicately flavored and the breads they put on the table were freshly baked too.

Finally, it was time for the real thing. The grill selections arrived and they were perfect! The Indian salmon with rosemary, cracked chilli and orange zest was very flavorful. The Andaman tuna with chives and cracked pepper was and interesting variation of taste.

The large Kerala prawns with chili and garlic rub was delightfully crunchy while the Japanese quail with sage and Jamaican jerk spice was suitably exotic. I ended with the New Zealand lamb chops with fine herbs and garlic pistou and the pork spare ribs with star anise and rosemary which was served seperately. Both were stand-out dishes and I had a strong temptation to repeat them!

I finished off with an apple pie. This was overall an outstanding dinner. I expect to be back here the next time I am at The Maratha. The menu keeps changing daily and in addition to those I sampled, they had Icelandic halibut, Arctic squid, wine-poached artichokes and much more.

The dining tables at West View are well spread out in the open and airy room. The ambiance is contemporary and chic. The restaurant itself was very quiet with few tables occupied at the time I walked in. Try this place if you are near Mumbai airport and have a few hours to spend during the evening. You won't regret it!

Pune's Peacock Village

2010-01-17T10:11:00.001+05:30

Fifty kilometers from Pune lies a tiny village surrounded by tamarind groves and fields of barley, corn and brightly colored sunflowers. But what makes this little village special from others are the hundreds of peacocks that have made this place their home.

Morachi Chincholi. Located deep inside rural Maharashtra yet close enough for a day trip from Pune. The drive down Nagar Road on the Pune-Admednagar Highway SH27 for the first 30 kilometers was smooth. We went past the many factories - Bharat Forge, John Deere, etc. - and warehouses that are located here just past the Pune city limits. We then turned into Kanhur Mesai Phata right after crossing the Velu River in Shikarpur.

Now the road was getting narrower with a few bumpy streches. There were long distances filled with swaying stalks of grains, vegetables and orchards. The only sign of modern civilization were the electricity lines along our road. Amazingly, my cellphone still worked and I wondered where the towers were located - I couldn't see any.

After crossing the small villages of Hiware and Dhumal Pimple we finally reached Morachi Chincholi. We stopped in front of a farmer's house and made arrangements for lunch. It was already noon and there were no peacocks in sight. However, the green and yellow fields made for a lovely sight in the distance. We learnt that the peacocks are best viewed at dawn and when the sun begins to set. During the daytime they usually take shelter from the hot sun by hiding in the orchards and forests.

We spent the next hour walking through the fields and taking pictures before going back for lunch. Lunch was a simple affair: we sat cross-legged in traditional Indian fashion in the open verandah of the farmer's house as he and his wife served us with freshly made bakri - a flatbread made of millet, pithle - a dish made by boiling chickpeas flour with water until thick and tempered with mustard seeds and chopped green chillies. They also served raw onion and radish, lime pickles and eggplant in a hot and spicy peanut gravy. A typical Maharashtrian farmer's daily fare.

We then moved into the Chincholi village, the road to which is adorned by a rather large arch. We stopped at Mayur Baug - a rustic resort that has a lot of interesting attraction to keep kids busy while the grown-ups wait until it is time for the peacocks to appear.

Mayur Baug has a kids park, a magic show, a puppet show and a farm full of geese, turkeys, horses, camels and other livestock. While the magic show and puppet show were fun - especially since they were in the middle of rustic surroundings, the livestock were in a sorry state of neglect. There are even bullock-cart rides and tractor rides for those who book a package in advance.

As the sun began to set at 5 PM, the first peacocks began to make an appearance. They slowly appeared from the forests into the surrounding fields. Mayur Baug has a very nice viewing gallery which was by now full of tourists excited to see the birds - with their shiny, velvety green necks and long tails.

Peacocks - the male of the species - are the ones with the flashy tails. The female and young males do not have the tail feathers but still make for a beautiful sight. the female lays eggs in the ground, but interestingly keeps a few 'decoy' eggs away from the ones she is laying to keep away predators. They usually sleep in the night on trees.

A ticket to Mayur Baug includes a complimentary chai with kanda bhajis. They were worth the wait - and after wolfing them down we began our drive back home. All in all, a fun day.

Incidentally, another place near Pune we had run into peacocks was on the way to Mauli Hills.

PS: During the evening, you can buy fresh greens and vegetables at very low prices directly from the farmers near the entrance of Mayur Baug.

To make bookings at Mayur Baug: Ph 2545 0095 in Pune, or 2284 5678 in Mumbai. Email: info@morachichincholi.com

Reviews: Soy, Sayaji, Cafe Boulevard

2010-01-08T05:03:00.011+05:30

Here are a trio of new restaurants in Pune that provide reasonably good value for those looking for a casual dinner or quick business lunch without significant damage to the wallet. All of them are in new or renovated hotels that have recently opened in Pune.

Cafe Boulevard is located on the open terrace of Hotel Kapila on Dhole Patil Road, a hotel better known for it's excellent kathi kabab outlet. The menu is a mix of Indian and Continental dishes. We decided to try the Indian food and secected a mutton Boti Kabab followed by Kolhapuri Chicken and tandoori roti. Everything tasted good and the service was efficient. We ended with a dessert of Caramel Custard, which was unappealing to look at but tasted nice. Overall, a good place for a quick lunch or dinner, but certainly not gourmet cuisine.

Soy, in newly opened Le Royce hotel right next to Sun N Sand has been catching my eye as I drive past daily and we finally found some time to try it. They had a special 'corporate lunch' menu that was decently priced. I started with the Hot & Sour soup, Chicken stir-fried with assorted peppers, Chicken Black Pepper & Chopsuey from that menu and seperately ordered a portion of Prawns in Butter Pepper from their sea-food menu. My wife also tried the Crispy Spinach Chicken. The food was good but lacked finesse. This restaurant will compete with neighbouring Suon Moi rather than Mainland China or Malaka Spice who turn out more sophisticated fare in classier settings.

Finally, the lunch buffet at Sayaji Hotel on the Mumbai Expressway in Hingewadi. Those who have come expecting a five-star experience will be disappointed. The hotel itself kept me guessing about what to expect: They flaunt a fleet of Audi Q7 SUVs that ferry guests to and from the airport. However, they aim to provide a value-for-money experience, employ waiters who are helpful but aren't fluent in English and surprise you by not accepting tips. You will like the lunch buffet if you don't come in expecting a five-star buffet lunch. I loved all their meat preparations but the desserts were clearly the highlight - especially the fruit rabdi.

Among other Pune dining news, Casanova Gold has been renamed Shikara and they have now added an Arabian Cafe to the mix too (the owners clearly have more faith in Numerology than they should; random addition of letters to the names of their restaurants have clearly not helped but sadly they persist. So Casanova is spelt CCasanova and Shikara is spelt Shikarra!). Anyway, if you are looking for a Mezze platter or baklava, you now have another choice in Kalyani Nagar. Also, like I had mentioned earlier, Tertullia has opened as a fine-dining restaurant; what I did not mention is this is actually Indyaki in its new avatar.

Lunch buffet at Sayaji. Rs: 375 per person. Ph: 42121212.
Cafe Boulevard at Kapila. Lunch for two approx Rs: 600. Ph: 66446644
Soy at Le Royce: Corporate Lunch for two + 1 seafood came to Rs: 850. Ph: 66289999

Also read Pune Dining: New Hot Spots

Jiggs Kalra's Punjab Grill

2010-01-02T08:51:00.002+05:30

I remember devouring Jiggs Kalra's foodie columns in the Times of India during the 90s. One of India's most known food columnists and gastronome, his recipes contributed to my growing interest in culinary delights during that time. I recollect being foxed by the term bouquet garni in his recipies and finally figuring out - remember those pre-Google days?!! - what it meant.

Therefore when I found myself in front of Jiggs' own restaurant, Punjab Grill, during a recent trip to New Delhi, I had to drop in and sample the fare. The Punjab Grill I visited is located in Saket within the upscale Select Citywalk Mall. It's sister restaurant is located in Gurgaon's Ambiance Mall.

Punjab Grill in Saket is divided into two different areas: a indoor fine-dining room and an open-air terrace. For lunch, the indoor dining room serves a lunch buffet while the a la carte menu is available on the terrace. We decided to choose the terrace and sample items off the menu.

I was here with my family. After some deliberation, we decided to order a kabab platter, makke ki roti and sarson da saag along with a portion of their famous daal.

I recall an interview of Jiggs Kalra where he pointed out historical evidence to suggest that kababs may have existed in the Indian subcontinent even before the Persian invaders came here. He cites a treatise written by 12th century Chalukyan ruler Somadeva in which a dish called bhaditraka is described. This dish was made of meat in which spices were stuffed before being roasted on spits.

A plate of laccha pyaz came in first: finely cut onion rings - or rather spirals that was liberally sprinkled with chaat masala. The kabab platter gave us an early indication of the portions: huge Punjabi-sized! The platter contained Murgh Tikka, Murgh Malai Tikka, Amritsari Machchi and Chaamp Taajdar.

I began with the mildest, the Murgh Malai Tikka - morsels of chicken marinated in yoghurt, cashew-nut paste and cheese before being cooked in a tandoor. The kabab was perfect - aromatic and very tender.

The Murgh Tikka, a house speciality, was made of boned pieces of chicken marinated in royal cumin, fresh cream, cheddar, garlic and a hint of fresh coriander before being glazed in the tandoor. This was a more robust, spicier kabab with the cheese giving it a distinct, soft taste.

The Amritsari Machchi were fillets of Singhara fish that had been dipped in ajwain-flavored gram flour and deep-fried in mustard oil. This was probably the one we loved the best. Absolutely done right with a crisp, tasty exterior and a flavorful and soft inside.

Finally, the Chaamp Taajdar which was lamb chops that had been pot-roasted in an infusion of cloves, black cardomom, kasoori methi and basil before being grilled on a tandoor. Ample-sized and very tasty indeed!

The waiters were ready with the rest of our food. A large portion of sarson da saag showed up. This popular winter dish from Punjab made with mustard greens cooked in earthern pots with radish leaves, bathua, ginger, gram flour and a dash of mustard oil was absolutely delightful. Not unexpectedly given Jiggs' Punjabi origins. The makke ki roti - breads made of corn flour in the tandoor - that go with this dish were perfectly turned out too. Dollops of home-made butter made the dish heavenly in the nip of the winter morning.

The Daal was made of whole urad simmered overnight with a trace of mustard oil and finished with a tomato puree and cream, finally tempered with ghee. Again fantastic in taste and texture. In spite of the portions, there wasn't much left on the plate when we finished our lunch!

Even though we were quite full because of the ample portions, I had to try a dessert. The waiter recommended the kheer. The rice-based kheer in thickened milk was liberally sprinkled with nuts. The kheer was heavenly, the taste of rabdi with aromatic rice, nuts and a hint of kewra.

For lovers of Punjabi food, I strongly recommend this restaurant if you are anywhere near Saket. For visitors to Delhi, the mall is about 30 minutes from the airport, and home to a multiplex, several upscale branded shopping outlets and restaurants. A good place to kill some time if you have any when visiting this city.

Dear foodie friends, wish you a fun-filled, food-filled New Year! May this be the beginning of a very exciting and successful decade for all of you.

Prego at Westin Pune

2009-12-30T10:06:00.000+05:30

A new luxury hotel in town. More importantly, two new restaurants within that hotel to discover! The Westin Pune finally opened its doors in Koregaon Park. They bring to food lovers Prego, an Italian fine-dining restaurant, along with Kangan, which specializes in Indian cuisine.

Prego is a concept that has been fine-tuned by Westin in many of their hotels in Asia. With an open kitchen and modern, contemporary style, this restaurant specializes in regional Italian dishes, home-made pastas, risottos and a wide variety of pizzas. While the setting is definitely upscale, the restaurant has a distinctly casual feel.

The hotel and the restaurant had barely been operational for three weeks and it showed. Their pizza oven wasn't functional so we had to modify our dining plans somewhat. As we selected our drinks, they put out some warm bread with olive oil, vinegar and a chunky tomato dip. The bread was fresh and tasted good - always a good sign; stale bread is an early warning for impending disasters in restaurants.

We ordered a starter of the Melanzane Alla Parmigiana: baked eggplant layers in tomato sauce, basil, mozzarella and Parmesan cheese. The starter was good but not particularly a stand-out.

We followed with an interesting variation of home-made gnocchi (pronounced as noh-kee), the Gnocchi di Zucca Tartufati made with truffle flavored pumpkin gnocchi and mascarpone cheese. At our request they also added some grilled chicken on top. The gnocchi was amazingly soft, chewy in a good way, and very tasty indeed.

Then came the Spaghetti Con Mazzancolle: spaghetti with tiger prawn, chilli, garlic, parsley and arugula leaves. Again, this dish was perfectly flavored and tasted very nice. The play of flavors and textures was nicely balanced.

The desserts turned out to be a very good idea. The Zuccotto Al Cioccolato was to die for! This one is a frozen chocolate 'mud pie' with coffee flavored ice cream. Coffee lovers have it good in this restaurant: The other dessert I tried, the Affogato Al Caffe with espresso, vanilla ice cream and sambuca liquor was bitter-sweet heaven.

My advice to you, keep space for the desserts in this restaurant; you won't regret it!

Overall, the restaurant shows promise for those looking for an upscale Italian dining experience in Pune. The portions here aren't very large and therefore dining family-style and sharing dishes can be a challenge. The service in the restaurant was excellent through-out. The hotel itself was looking bright and cheerful with Xmas decorations in the lobby.

La Dolce Vita and Casanova both had their time in the limelight but haven't been consistent over time. I haven't visited La Dolce Vita recently, but Casanova certainly has gone downhill. Hopefully, Prego will now set the standards for good Italian food in Pune. Westin still has to some work to do and iron out its initial kinks and teething trouble; I look forward to sampling some of their pizzas the next time around.

PS: QBA which I earlier thought was a Cuban restaurant is actually going to be a Cuban themed night-club/lounge-bar. It hasn't opened yet.

Beggar's Chicken

2009-12-27T11:54:00.011+05:30

During my first trip, I had written about the other interesting dish not many discover in China, Beggar's Chicken. Not as popular as the famous Peking Duck, the serving of this dish is every bit as entertaining in its presentation. Especially so, if you are dining in the critically acclaimed restaurant, Made in China, within the palatial Grant Hyatt Hotel in Beijing.

When the waitress brought me the large ball of clay, I was momentarily confused. Then I noticed the wooden mallet and other instruments more appropriate in a operation theater or a torture chamber. This was getting interesting!

Made in China is designed to seat diners in the middle of bustling show kitchens, impressive wine racks and stacks of kitchenware through a long dining room that also has a separate bar area. This excellent restaurant serves up a variety of northeastern and Beijing delicacies through the evening. I was able to get a seat at a seat in front of one of the show kitchens. The last time I was here, I wasn't able to sample Beggar's Chicken; this dish sells out fast. Today I was luckier!

After giving me a chance to deliver the first honorary blow to crack the baked clay encasing the Beggar's Chicken, my waitress took over. A few more expertly delivered blows with the mallet and much of the clay shell was cracked. She then used a pair of shears to cut through the lotus leaves that were wrapped around the chicken. The chicken itself seemed to be perfected roasted in its juices. The meat was falling of the bones. She used the final instrument to partly pry open the chicken to unveil the pork and mustard green filling. All in all, this dish made for a very interesting entree in terms of quality of experience. The chicken was well done and the mustard greens did enhance the taste of the dish somewhat.

The hot and soup I had ordered before my main course and the dessert that followed of "Made in China" homemade chocolate - Wu Liang Ye coriander mild and Si Chuan pepper chocolate walnut were nice but completely overshadowed by the impressive presentation of my main course.

For those who are interested in the story behind how Beggar's Chicken got its name, check my earlier post here.

Epicurean in Beijing

2009-12-24T15:56:00.016+05:30

Even business lunches in China can end up being quite a feast. This time was no different. My hospitable hosts had organized an elaborate lunch at Quanjude, the renowned restaurant that has being serving Peking Duck since 1864 when the Qing dynasty still ruled China.

Like is usual when dining in Asian restaurants, we were seated around a large round table with a revolving platter of exquisitely presented dishes placed in the center.

Dish after dish of fish, meats and fruits appeared. Slices of pear, jello-encased seafood, BBQ pork short ribs, sauteed spinach with peanuts, and much more. I will let the pictures do the talking!

Soups and fried rice were followed by more meats and vegetables in sweet and savory sauces. All exquisitely presented and every one of them delectable. The variety of taste, texture and flavor was a feast for the senses.

It was time for the house speciality - Peking Duck. I was presented with a certificate with the serial number of the duck - a running number from the time they have been serving roast duck to their patrons. This popular restaurant now sells over 2 million roast ducks annually!

The chef expertly carved the duck at the table as we admired their practised deftness of hand. A plate of the famed melt-in-your-mouth slices of the glazed, crispy skin arrived in front of us, followed by the duck meat which we greedily rolled within pancakes with hoisin sauce, sugar and spring onions. Finally came the soup made from the duck. Nothing goes waste here. The Peking Duck was amazing as always.

Finally came an interesting cream-filled dessert, a pastry filled with a sweet tasting meat and a fruit platter. Desserts in China seem to play a minor part in what is usually always a very elaborate dining experience.

In the evening we dined at Zen 1903, an upscale restaurant in Beijing's swish Legation Quarters. This area used to house foreign embassies at one time but now is the destination for gourmets in the capital city. This butterfly-themed restaurant serves upmarket Cantonese cuisine along with Peking Duck and some Sichuan favorites.

We sat under an impressive crystal chandelier as a series of steamed, stir-fried, BBQ and roasted delicacies made their way to our plates. This time there were more exotica such as jellyfish, duck's feet and duck's kidneys and I am happy to say I tried every one of them. We ended with a dessert made of egg yolk along along with a sweetened roll.

As you can see, it was another elaborate and satisfying meal in Beijing. Ming and team, thank you for being the perfect hosts as always!

PS: Posts from my previous visits to China:

Pune Dining: New Hot Spots

2009-12-18T03:04:00.002+05:30

I have a lot of catching up to do! With my increasing travel, I have been reviewing more restaurants outside Pune than in this city I call my home. Hopefully, this post will quickly put Pune back on this blog. Let me begin by Momo at the Courtyard in Hingewadi: I went back to try their dinner buffet on a weekend. The live Chinese and Pasta counters enhanced the already elaborate buffet spread. The chef also turns out a mean pizza. And like always, I loved their desserts; they seem to have a very talented pastry chef.

I also visited Kareem's multiple times. In addition to their East Street outlet, they now have one in Dhole Patil Road, right next to Zamu's. The biryanis are robust, served in ample portions, and yet modestly priced. Ph: 26053374

On yet another day, I discovered the Bombay Duck at Rahul in Aundh. Bombay Duck despite its name is not a duck but a fish. This ugly looking fish has a powerful odour when dried; however, the expertly fried fillets at Rahul were excellent and I can recommend it safely to seafood lovers who want to try something different.

While I was away travelling, a host of eating options seem to have emerged in Pune. Here are the ones which are top of my list:

Cafe Maroo, an intimate little Korean restaurant has opened at Westend Plaza on New D.P. Road, Aundh. In addition to Korean green and herbal teas, you can find kimbap - Korean rice and other condiments rolled in seaweed, dduk - rice cakes, and bulgogi in their menu.

Coffee lovers rejoice! Aromas on Dhole Patil Road (opposite Madhuban) has brought gourmet Australian coffee into the city. Aromas is part of the chain popular all over Gold Coast and Brisbane in the Australian continent.

The good news just doesn't end. Pune's first microbrewery, 1st Brewhouse and its brewpub opened with fanfare at the Corinthians. Beer lovers can now sample four varieties of beer with retro rock and a variety of meat and veggie wraps and rolls - if you don't mind driving down the far end of town.

Other new openings and interesting discoveries:

Squisito in Koregaon Park. Yet another vegetarian-only Italian place that also has Mexican and Lebanese on its menu. 1 Jewel Tower, Lane No. 5, Ph: 2605-4005

Tertullia on South Main Road has reopened as a fine-dining restaurant. I love their pastries and coffeee but haven't yet visited them in their new avatar. Lane No. 5, Ph: 26151100

Bombay's popular Cream Center: For those who fondly remember its crowded namesake in Chowpatty, you can now sample their delectible Mexican nachos, ragda-patties and Channa Bhatura in Fern Hotel, Kalyani Nagar.

BBQ Nation opened its second outlet in town, this one open-air on the rooftop of the new Sayaji Hotel. Ph: 42121212

Another international restaurant chain brings Legacy Restaurant to Pune. Known for their Cheese Naan, Hazari Kabab, Chicken Methi Malai and Mutton Biryani in far-flung cities of Africa and the Middle-East, they have even brought their chefs from Dubai to make a good first impression. Lunkad Sky Station, Viman Nagar, Ph: 66410110

Westin finally opened in tony Koregaon Park, bringing with it some upscale dining options as well. Kangan opens daily for dinner and specializes in frontier cuisine. Prego, the fine-dining Italian restaurant looks promising too (Dec 2009: reviewed here). QBA promises to introduce the best Cuban delights to Pune. Mix@36 is the bar for whiskey lovers; they claim to have over 68 different varieties here.

The Great Kabab Factory comes into town in the newly opened Radisson Hotel. Their much imitated and unique concept of unlimited kababs, biryanis and speciality Indian breads in an upscale ambiance has been a personal favorite of mine ever since I first visited the New Delhi Radisson many years ago.

After Galaxy Grill, Corinthians now brings the second Greek dining experience to town with Salsa. However, for those not too adventurous, they have some Indian food on the menu too.

Then we have '96K' for some royal Maratha fare including the fiery mutton rassa with wade and patra fish. Incidentally, '96K' stands for the first 96 Maratha families who had their roots in Rajasthan. Really! What say Thakeray and Thakeray? Located in Sanas Memories, 927 F.C. Road, near Deendayal Hospital. Ph: 25679669

Finally, Cafe Boulevard in Hotel Kapila on Dhole Patil Road is getting good reviews for those out of good options late in the nights when you are desperate food and drinks at non-five-star prices. This restaurant is open 24 hours. Ph: 6644 6644 (Jan 2010: Reviewed here)

I will keep updating this post with links to more detailed reviews. I would like to hear from you too. Bon Apetit!

Other posts on Pune's dining scene:

Dim Sum Heaven

2009-12-13T07:45:00.000+05:30

I had less than two days to spend in Hong Kong, most of that time devoted to business. Sight-seeing was clearly not on the agenda this time, but I could not return without the yum cha experience of Hong Kong. Which is how I found myself at Maxim's on a Sunday morning, one of the most popular yum cha outlets in town. Arriving at 11 AM, we found outselves amongst a crowd of families, tourists and businessmen - all awaiting their turn for the city's primary gastronomic indulgence of tea and dim sum.

While most of the world uses the word dim sum, the entire dining experience is actually called yum cha, which involves drinking Chinese tea, dim sum dishes, soup and desserts. Maxim's is a culinary instition in Hong Kong having existed since the 1950s. The Beatles actually performed at their original restaurant in the 60s during a visit to the city. The Maxim's empire now has a variety of high-quality restaurants across the city. The one we were in today, the Maxim Palace in City Hall, is among their most popular.

Smartly dressed girls in embroidered pink uniforms gave us a number. Over the heads of the waiting people, I could the huge hall with its large windows overlooking the ubiquitous shorelines of Hong Kong. A large crystal chandelier cast a golden glow in the cavernous interiors crowded with happy families. It was only 50 minutes later that the girl called out our number; the appetizing smells wafting my way from the dim sum carts had already gotten me ravenously hungry and without much ado I settled down to dig in.

Gleaming gold carts came by with a variety of fresh steamed, fried and baked delicacies. All we did was point and pick as we slurped up the little bundles of pure bliss. Among the twenty-odd dishes that passed my plate, I can't remember one that I didn't like! Simply amazing! Some had a crunch in the palate while others were slippery little devils. Yet others surprised with their combination of textures and flavors, but every one of them was piping hot and absolutely terrific.

I had selected an interesting warm drink made of crysanthimum, lemon and honey. This was very exotic and refreshing too. I also remember having a soup in-between.

Finally, we ended with a dessert of cocunut jelly cubes and more tea. While I was completely satiated after that yum cha meal, I know this is something I want to repeat with my family very soon.

Late in the evening, I ventured out again to the harbour-front on the Kowloon side. As the skies darkened, the steel and glass towers began lighting up. It was a very pretty sight and it felt good just sitting on the shore-side, listening to the waves and seeing the Hong-Kong skyline come alive in neon splendor. I took the ferry back to Central and located a lovely, warm restaurant in the IFC tower. The Union Bar & Grill with its red brick walls and mahagony detailing looked inviting with its Xmas decorations.

The baked potato skins with cheese were nicely done and made for a good starter. The lamb chops I ordered were very tasty too. All in all, a great end of a quick visit to this historic port city of Asia.

PS: For some amazing dim sums in New Delhi, try this place.

The Fragrant Island

2009-12-11T07:35:00.001+05:30

Hong Kong got its name from the many sandalwood and incense factories on the island during ancient times. Its history - having changed hands from the Chinese to the British during the Opium Wars - and unique geographical location makes this island more interesting and important than its small size would suggest. The Cathay Pacific jet from Mumbai landed on a clear, pleasant day and I was soon driving on a high-speed expressway to my harbour-side hotel. The limo even had wifi access!

Since it was already mid-day and I had slept all through the flight, I was feeling famished. I went down to the Cafe and got myself a juicy hamburger with a multitude of toppings - bacon, grilled onions, even fried egg! Soon, I was feeling much better and ready to explore my surroundings. I still had a couple of hours to kill and the ferry station was only a short stroll from my hotel. I went with National Geographic's recommendation and took the Star ferry, whose small crafts have been crossing the Victoria Harbour for hundreds of years.

Off we went from the Wan Chai pier to Hung Hom and Tsim Sha Tsui on the Kowloon peninsula before circling back via Central. Skyscrapers on the shoreline and the distant hills made for a great viewing experience as the bright setting sun reflected off the glass facade of tall towers in the distance. We passed by cruise ships and smaller boats as birds overhead flew home. The Victoria Harbour used to be a lot larger in the years past; however, increasing demand for land has led to frequent landfills reducing its size to less than a kilometer across now.

Hong Kong has an unique charm with its ultra modern buildings and roads jostling for space with its Buddhist temples, Chinese cultural icons and old markets. I liked the place more than I did Singapore.

In the evening, we dined at Harlan's within the mall of the awe-inspiring IFC skyscraper. The East Asian Games were coming to an end and tonight was the grand finale with a light and fireworks show in the harbour. This restaurant with its contemporary, warm interiors has excellent views of the harbour and Kowloon shorelines through large glass windows.

The Salmon Sashimi with Japanese salad and sesame citrus dressing was mouthwatering and set the tone for the rest of the dinner. The flavors of the sprouts in the salad with the sesame and salmon made for an amazing combination.

I then went on to the US Prime Beef Fillet with foie gras, French beans, truffle butter and port wine jus. The beef was perfectly cooked and tasted perfect. The combination of the wine jus and truffle butter significantly enhanced the experience. A foie gras lover, I was delighted with the decadent, buttery soft terrine on the plate too!

I shared a dessert platter of warm chocolate cake, chocolate soup and rum-raisin ice cream with a trio of creme brulee: Grand Marnier, Caramel and Green Tea. The creme brulee was particularly fantastic and the warm chocolate cake was quite good too. All this while, we had been sipping on some excellent wine: Chateau Lynch Bages Pauillac and the Dagromis Barolo Gaja.

The fireworks were lovely to watch and they were preceded by a flottila of junk boats that had been lit up in red. The sights of the fire and light display playing out right in front of us made the evening special. However, the best part of the evening were the long dinner conversations with a bunch of interesting people who I don't get to meet very often.

The Connemara in Madras

2009-12-02T05:26:00.002+05:30

The Taj Connemara in Chennai is home to some unmatched culinary pleasure the city has to offer. However, what makes this hotel even more interesting is its intriguing history. Lord Connemara was the Governor of Madras from 1886-1902. As the story goes, Lord Connemara had a weakness for pretty young women and ended up in frequent dalliances with the fair sex. When the Lady Connmara chanced upon one such liaison, she walked out in a huff. Out of the Governor House into the only hotel in town for Englishmen: the Albany. By the time she left, the hotel had been renamed The Connemara in her honor. Incidentally, the hotel was built in 1867 and for the first twenty years was called the Imperial Hotel.

As I strolled through the hotel corridors, I was drawn to the framed black and white photos from those early days. The Connemara of Madras - with its colonial facade and small English garden, where nights fell to the sound of crickets and the whirr of ceiling fans, as the saabs and mems drew mosquito-nets down to keep out the annoying little predators.

People cheered from the vantage point of this hotel as Queen Elizabeth II passed by in a motorcade during a trip to India. The bar inside served up nimboo paani for the memsaab and martinis - stirred by the saab's koi hai! These were easy-going times with food every few hours starting with the Chota Haziri - or small breakfast, usually toast with tea and maybe eggs - served right at dawn. Then came a hearty breakfast that included fish, stewed steak with onions, eggs, curried fowl and rice with tea, coffee, bread and butter followed by Trichnopoly cigars for the saab. The tiffin or lunch was simpler; the afternoon tea with its cakes and scones, and finally the evening meal of soup, fish, side dishes, pudding and fruits. On special evenings, hushed laughter and the rustle of silks and taffeta alternated with the cultured clink of cutlery and the waltz in the Ballroom.

I returned to the Raintree restaurant for dinner, but the mosquitoes spoilt the dining experience. Hip Asia turned out to be the find of this trip. I wasn't expecting too much, and the fact the restaurant was almost deserted at lunch time didn't seem to augur well. But the food was a revelation. Right from the excellent salad - very cold, crisp with peanut and crystals of sugar - to the miso soup, maki sushi, teriyaki fried rice, fish, veggies and prawns, this was an amazing culinary ride! When I finally settl;ed down with the Thai dessert of water-chestnuts in coconut milk, I was completely satiated.

The only discordant note? The manager decided to take it upon himself to deny photographing the dishes. Even without a flash.

Southern Spice

2009-11-21T16:59:00.007+05:30

Opulent South Indian decor envelops you as you step into this restaurant in the Taj Coromandel, Chennai. The floral patterns on the backlit dome in the ceiling grabs your attention immediately, as does the pretty Kanjeevaram saree-clad hostess and the shiny brass and silver tableware. I am shown to my table, as a trio of musicians settle down to entertain us with South Indian classical music on a jugalbandi of violin and ghatam. A loud squawk momentarily unsettles us. We turn around and see the astrologer - tarot cards and bored parrot in tow - for the Western tourist who craves for Indian exotica. It is 8 PM on a Friday evening and the place is still filling up.

Before the Europeans discovered the Malacca Straits with their spice islands, much of these spices arrived at the Coromandel coast (India's east coast). They were then transported across land to the Malabar coast (India's west coast) before making their way to the Arabian kingdoms and the princely states of Europe.

Romans valued spice so highly that pepper was used to pay off ramsons. And yet, even in 1 BC, the Roman knowledge of the spice route extended little beyond India's west coast. Ports in and around what is now the city of Chennai were a vital link in giving the Western world a taste of the spices of the Far East, but few outside India knew about the world beyond India's Malabar coast.

So here I was, sampling the cuisine of region that had spices in their culinary creations much earlier than the rest of the world. Where locals lavishly spiced up curries of fish and pork when the Italians hadn't yet discovered the pleasure of freshly grated pepper on their pasta!

The waiter was willing to combine half portions of two starters so I could taste as many of their delicacies. The Uslampatti Kari Sukka is a dry lamb preparation from the rural south of Tamil Nadu. Hot, spicy and exactly how I had hoped it would be. The Kori Chimbli are chicken nuggets in a spice mix which are fried and tossed with onions, curry leaves and green chilli. This dish was milder than the lamb but interesting and different.

They served me some basundi in a little silver bowl which almost tasted like North Indian rabdi. There was the usual variety of papads and chutneys too as I waited for the main course. Meanwhile, the musicians had made may for a Bharatnatyam dancer.

The Karaikudi Kozhi Seeragam, a cumin flavored chicken curry from the house of Karaikudi Chettiars, was excellent. Again a very different tasting curry that I liked very much. The Alleppey Fish Curry was good too, but not a new discovery. The Idiappam and Appam -which I used to soak up the spicy curry - were as good as they get.

I finally ended with a rich dessert of Khubani Ka Meetha with a dollop of ice-cream, a nawabi dish from Hyderabad made of apricots.

Within a couple of hours I had sampled delights from rural Tamil Nadu, coastal Karnataka, Kerala and Andhra Pradesh. Quite a delightful journey that!

This restaurant has remained unchanged for 15 years as has been the menu. But that may soon change. The manager told me the restaurant was scheduled for renovation later this year and may re-emerge in a different avatar.

Discovering Mahabalipuram

2009-11-13T05:11:00.003+05:30

Mahabalipuram is an ancient town on the outskirts of Chennai that was a flourishing sea-port for hundreds of years (1-100 AD). This town was a vital part of the trade-link between the Coramandel coast of India and the Far East - a link hidden to Arabia and Europe, who thought of India as the single source for all exotic spices. In reality, mace and nutmeg - once among the most treasured of spices - actually came from islands of Indonesia and Malaysia via Mahabalipuram and other nearby ports. This fact was cleverly hidden by Indian merchants who traded these spices to Arabs for large profits on the Malabar coast .

Mahabalipuram is also home to some of the most extraordinary stone sculptures from the ancient world, the time when the Pallavas ruled the South. India has many rock-cut architectures from even older times and in larger scale, such as those in the Ellora and Ajanta caves. However, what makes Mahabalipuram special are the free-standing monolithic temples carved out of single granite rocks and the exquisite hill-side stone reliefs - some of which sport the oldest known Devnagari scripts along with scenes from the Mahabharata.

It seems like every rocky hillside and stone formation became the canvas for these artists of old. Their ebalorate reliefs and life-like statues tell stories that have lasted thousands of years. They have lasted in spite of the assault by salty ocean sprays, the tides and the infrequent tsunamis and hurricanes.

I was attending a business event very close to this old seaside town and my host offered to be my guide to these ancient wonders. Thank you, Mani! This was a well-spent two hours that made a far greater impact than my history books at school ever did.

The large, detailed relief popularly called Arjuna's Penance shows Arjuna praying for divine support before entering the big war. One can see the Gods and demons looking on in awe. Another interpretation of this relief has Bhagirath praying to bring the goddess Ganges to the earth. On one corner, you can even see a pious cat praying to fool the mice into coming closer - some of our folk stories are that old apparently! The large elephant in the middle of this (and other reliefs) lead some to believe a Buddhist influence exists in these art-forms.

Another relief, this time within the confines of a hall with pillars - all carved out of a rocky hillside - shows Krishna holding up a hillock to protect his fellow villagers from heavy thunderstorms unleashed by Indra. In each of these detailed artwork in stone, the detailing of these popular scenes from Indian mythology is quite amazing.

We drove past a gaint granite stone balanced precariously on a hillside and got down again to stroll around the Panch Rathas i.e., the Five Chariots. These are five monolithic temples in the shape of chariots each made in a different style and named after a character from the Mahabharata.

Finally, I visited the Shore Temple which has been the landmark most associated with Chennai. Early European travellers refered to this location as the Seven Pagodas, setting off a legend about a city under the sea. Interestingly, the tsunami of 2004 uncovered more ancient underwater ruins that has given recent impetus to archeological expeditions. Who know, maybe the other six 'pagodas' are indeed waiting to be discovered under the sea after all!

By the time I returned to my hotel, it was dark. The pepper-fried squid on the in-room dining menu was particularly delicious! Try it, if you are ever at The Trident in Chennai.

Dinner at Stax

2009-11-08T17:49:00.000+05:30

Stax is the Italian restaurant in Hyatt Regency, Mumbai. Located very close to the international airport, this hotel is a popular choice with business travellers flying in and out of Mumbai. Stax is a feast for the senses. With exciting contemporary decor and ambiance, this restaurant is never too crowded and always an excellent location if you are looking for a quiet evening over Italian food.

The degustation menu looked tempting but I was looking for something simpler tonight. I started off with the tomato soup with roasted Canadian scallop, fresh thyme and crispy Parma ham. The soup was excellent and revived me instantly; the only gripe I had was with the fact that there was one single piece of ham and one scallop in this large bowl of soup.

The bread was good as was the tomato-pesto-olive oil dip. I chomped away happily as I waited for my entree to arrive.

The home-made tagliatelle was sauteed with artichokes, scampi, carmelized capers and tomato with extra virgin olive oil. This signature dish was pretty good.

While the food doesn't touch the stratospheric level, overall this restaurant has promise. The service cannot be faulted and the overall ambiance is wonderful. The dinner didn't leave me feeling heavy and I breezed through the check-in process at the airport feeling rather energetic at midnight.

The flight to San Francisco was eventless. I watched Angels and Demons on the flight and a few episodes of Mad Men. BTW, Bose has finally upgraded their noice-cancelling headphones with the new QC15. It improves on a product that was already very good!

Trendy Tamarine

2009-11-01T11:00:00.001+05:30

Like I read somewhere, Tamarine can be best described as a book you can judge by its cover! Stylish and sophisticated with an entralling bar area of bamboo and glass this restaurant makes an impression the moment you enter. Waiters in Prada black and dining rooms seperated by heavy black curtains add to its trendy elegance.

This restaurant run by Anne Le and executive chef Tammy Huynh, is contemporary reinvention of modern Vietnam cuisine. I have already reviewed their other classy restuarant in San Francisco, Bong Su. I was already looking forward to another great experience.

We ordered some starters including the Tamarine Spiced Wings and the Spring Rolls. The spiced wings were served with a pineapple-jicama slaw and a gingery sauce. Wasn't particularly great. The spring rolls - we had ordered a vegetarian version - were filled with beansprouts and mint with a hoisin chilli sauce. It was ok-ok, nothing to rave about.

The Clay Pot Cod was thankfully much better. The Alaskan black cod was carmelized in onion, black pepper, garlic and molasses and was extremely tasty.

The Hoisin Lamb Chops were very good too. The dish was made in hoisin, garlic and rosemary grilled chops served with baby bok choy and sweet potato fries. Nicely done and the sweet potato fries were an interesting touch.

I have to also mention the Empress Fried Rice which you have to order every time! Sticky rice, garlic, leeks, ginger and eggs go into making this fabulous dish. It is served with a sweet soy drizzle.

There were a few other dishes on the table, some of which I didn't sample. Others not particularly remarkable. The Chili-Lime Aubergine is grilled Japanese eggplant finished with onion oil, scallions and a chili-lime fish sauce. The Curried Long Beans is beans sautéed in red chili, kaffir lime leaves and onions. The Sake Mushrooms have Shiitake mushrooms, garlic & sugar snap peas wok fired in an oyster-sake sauce.

Overall, I would say the food is good if you select carefully. The decor, ambiance and service cannot be flawed. What I enjoyed most was the company tonight: my friends, Mythili and Shekar - thank you for a wonderful evening!

PS: I just now realized Bong Su in San Francisco closed earlier this year. Sad.

Farallon And Ryowa Ramen

2009-10-27T19:03:00.011+05:30

A study in contrasts: one extravagent and ostentatious, the other small and simple. Farallon and Ryowa Ramen. Farallon, located within a block of Union Square in San Francisco is an unique restaurant that recreates an opulent undersea environment with jelly fish lamps and coral reef walls. In complete contrast, Ryowa Ramen brings the small noodle restaurants of Tokyo into the heart of Silicon Valley. A three-sided bar and a few tables with a television showing one of those kawaii Japanese talk/game shows completes the decor.

First, my visit to Farallon. The interiors are very much the highlight of this restaurant, especially the bar area. I nibbled on my bread and sipped a Pinot Noir as I looked around. The restaurant was crowded on this evening as was the bar.

The baby Arugula salad with aged balsamic on a carpaccio of French butter pear and sweet coppa - thin slices of Italian pork shoulder - was absolutely fantastic. I had been a little worried seeing the mixed reviews when I was planning to visit this restaurant, but this was a promising start!

My entree was the Hawaiian Ahi-tuna. Grilled rare, the tuna was served on a bed of roasted French fingerling potatoes, gypsy pepper piperade and Niçoise olive tapenade: the latter two being exotic European sandwich spreads made of pepper and olive respectively. This dish seemed huge but I was able to polish it off. While I liked the interesting play of flavors and textures on the palate, I would not rate this dish as extraordinary.

The bittersweet chocolate custard cake was served with Gianduja sauce, vanilla bean chantilly and hazelnut crunch. The Gianduja is an Italian chocolate that is flavored with hazelnuts. Again, the dessert was good but short of amazing.

Net-net, there were some hits, some misses, but I will remember Farallon as much for the food as for its unique ambiance.

Now, to Ryowa Ramen. A colleague (thanks Joe!) took me to this little place in Mountian View for lunch. With few seats, Ryowa fills up quickly; however, we were early and found seats at the bar.

The lunch consisted of a large bowl of ramen noodle soup garnished liberally with Japanese bbq pork. I ordered an extra serving of pork. The dish came with pot-stickers and fried rice. I chose the Shoyu broth which was very flavorful as was the pork.

The lunch turned out to be absolutely great: completely authentic, hot and delicious and completely filling! The pot-stickers were so-so, but overall this was a good meal.

San Francisco Love Parade

2009-10-19T09:38:00.014+05:30

I woke up late on Saturday and walked down to a diner close-by for brunch. Mel's Drive-In is a recreation of the popular restaurant chain from the 50s. Retro neon lighting, quaint juke boxes and super-busy staff behind the bar dispensing fried eggs, toast, orange juice and coffee. Quite a charming place to begin a lazy weekend.

As I walked back to my hotel, I began noticing something strange: girls and guys in costume. Wondering what was going, I walked along with them and came across a large parade in Market Street. Floats blared out dance music and hordes of young girls and guys in costumes swayed and danced to the music. Others just lined the streets as the parade made its way slowly towards the City Square.

LovEvolution is a dance music parade and festival organized every year. The parade starts from 2nd & Market Street in downtown San Francisco with about 25 floats heading west down Market Street. The floats arrive at Civic Center plaza where they park to becomes 25 stages on transformed festival grounds with food, beverage, a live electronic and performance stage, and outstanding revelry.

With 25 different DJs belting out electronic dance music and about 100,000 people filling the city center, it was one big party through the day! It was a windy evening and clearly alcohol was helping keep the under-dressed partygoers warm; there were some completely stoned and drunk as can be expected. However, the mood overall was cheerful and full of fun and the after-parties continued late into the night.

I strolled out much earlier and decided to get some dinner on my way back. I went into Ame at the St.Regis, a place I have dined before.

The sake, Miyasaka Yamahai, was dry and earthy and warmed me up as I waited for my starters. The Trio of Sashmi was a great start. The crudo of halibut with horseradish, the salmon with a thin slice of of cucumber and tartar sauce, the red snapper with string beans were a study in contrasting tastes and textures.

The cream of Sunchoke soup with foie gras tortellini had promise but was ruined by excessive saltiness. The broiled sake marinated Cod in Shisho broth was heart-warming and as good as I remembered.

The grilled quail on risotto was wonderfully tasty with a hint of gaminess; it was a whee bit difficult to dig in with a regular sized steak knife - one of those times when I would have loved to dig in with my bare hands! The wheat berries, pioppini mushrooms and foie gras sauce enhanced the taste considerably.

The dessert - Green Tea Affogato with pistachio ice cream - was interesting to say the least! It was like having chikki with green tea and ice cream. :)

Oysters in Santana Row

2009-10-11T10:41:00.006+05:30

No seafood quite captures the essence of the sea like the oyster. Unlike previous times, I was determined to be a purist and enjoy them raw on the half-shell. I was at Bradley Ogden's fresh seafood restaurant, Yankee Pier on Santana Row. Like a wine-menu, the oyster menu can be daunting for first-timers. However, the extremely friendly and helpful waitress explained some of the basics quickly.

I chose half a dozen of the Hama Hama Pacific Blue oysters, specified as not too sweet and not too briny. The shells were larger than I had expected and it was great fun slurping down the raw oyster with the briny seawater and slowing figuring out its very complex taste. They had provided a couple of dips and finely shredded horseradish along the oysters.

After that, I settled for the Alaskan King Salmon, grilled medium-rare with the middle still very pink and on a bed of sauteed spinach and jasmine rice. Excellent combination: the flavor of the salmon and the fragrant rice complimenting each other.

The dessert was a butterscotch custard with a dollop of whipped cream on top. Decadent and completely delightful! This restaurant is always dependable for an evening of excellent seafood. They also have lot of seating space both indoors and outdoors.

The weather throughout this visit has been extremely fickle. While I enjoyed some unusually warmth during the weekend in downtown San Francisco, the temperature dropped precipitously the very next day. But I did get a chance to try some interesting stuff - keep watching this space!

BTW, my previous visit to Yankee Pier is posted here.

Pan Asian in Kolkata

2009-10-01T05:22:00.001+05:30

Kolkata has been home to some of our country's earliest immigrants from China. During childhood days, I remember stories of the most exceptional handcrafted shoes in Kolkata's China Town - the only Indian city to have one. And later in life, I would be constantly directed to the Tangra area in China Town for the best Chinese food in that city. Some interesting blog posts on those Chinese who have remained behind can be found here and here. Sadly, what remains now is a dilapidated area inhabited by a decreasing number of the older generation.

Pan Asian continues this heritage by bringing its eclectic mix of Chinese, Japanese, Mongol and Korean cuisine under one roof at the ITC Sonar in Kolkata. Interactive kitchens with seating around them encourage contact with the chefs with bespoke culinary options. The Chinese kitchen features delicacies from Sichuan and Beijing provinces. The Mongolian Brazier facilitates the cuisine of the Mongols dating back to the days of Genghis Khan, whose soldiers grilled meats on their battle shields heated over charcoal. You can choose combinations of meats, seafood and vegetabls with seasoning and sauces. Then there is the Japanese Teppan Grill featuring Teppanyaki and the Korean Bar-be-que and Hot Pots with in-built grills in the tables. If that is not enough, there is a Japanese sushi and sashimi Bar.

Tonight I began with a small plate of salmon sashimi and then followed with a Mongolian stir fry: fish, spring chicken, spring lamb, pork tenderloin, shitake mushrooms, bamboo shoots, carrots. Salad oil and the chef's condiments. Noodles.

The sashimi seemed fresh and tasted pretty good. However, without Japanese chefs at the bar tonight, the cuts weren't the same calibre. Also, the wasabi wasn't the best - far less intense than the real thing.

The Mongolian stir fry was excellent. Lots of seafood and meat and the right amount of spices and condiments. Completely filling too!

For dessert, I tried the amazing jasmine tea creme brulee. Vanilla bean ice cream on the top. Bewitching! A thin layer of creme brulee with specs of carmalized topping and a large dollop of home-made ice-cream. I strongly recommend this dessert to anyone who visits here.

The restaurants at the ITC Sonar have some of the friendliest waitstaff, especially in their speciality restaurants. I also enjoyed some very Bengali selections during breakfasts such as Radhabollobi with Cholar Dal on one day, and Kochuri with Ghugni on another. Finally, the Kayakalp spa is luxuriously laid out across lotus ponds and swaying palms.