Feral Childe Voile Camp Shirt

In the fall of 2010, there were two new arrivals in the Substance shop, me, and the line Feral Childe. A rapturous post by (recently published!) Cate illustrates our excitement with the then-new line. It wasn’t a passing fancy: Christina still rocks the Gamma Shift every so often, and in the fall of 2011, I wrote about our deepening admiration for the eco-chic line. This spring brought their bright and innovative spring collection, The Aquaknots, to our storefront — and to me it brought the great pleasure of interviewing the talented ladies behind Feral Childe.
Many thanks to Alice Wu and Moriah Carlson for their inspiring words and gorgeous creations!

What three words would you use to describe Feral Childe?

Printastic! Optimistic! Futurific!

What garments do you find yourself favoring, both in your collections and in your own wardrobes? What elements or details set these pieces apart from the rest? Care to divulge what your all-time favorite pieces are?

Moriah: Our Shoal Shift in black Cupro is going to win for year-round wardrobe staple because you can layer it with a slim tee like our Radio or Rabbits Tee, but go sleeveless for summer. I like to wear Tidal Dress with our Finlandia Jean and will see how far I get into the summer months before it just gets too hot! The Cupro is a mill-end fabric and has a bit of a fishnet-like texture to it, which is in keeping with our Spring 2012 Collection’s undersea theme. The vertical seaming detail has a lengthening effect, and wraps into a cap sleeve. You have to really look at it to figure out how it’s put together. Another go-to piece is the Feral Childe Admiral’s Jacket — we do a version of a blazer every season. Admiral’s Jacket comes in an Italian glazed linen or Hempcel (a blend of Hemp and Tencel). The Jacket is unstructured with smart, tailored details that keep it slim looking. Great for travel, chilly nights or a super AC’d office.

Alice: I like to mix things up, so when I’m not in head-to-toe Feral Childe I love to see how many outfits I can build around my latest find. I got these amazing navy blue Japanese bloomers. In the fall/winter months, I wore them with our Radio Tee or Rabbits Tee tucked in, topped with our Berlioz Blazer and a neckerchief. Plus knee highs and ankle boots. It’s my Little Lord Fauntleroy look. We worked hard to perfect the fit of our Blazer — it’s waist-defining, always a different shaping detail on the lapel, and a great lining fabric or seam binding with our print. The construction and finishings are the toughest design decisions to make but these are the details people wind up loving. And we always want to make the buttons fun — for the past several seasons, we’ve been using tagua buttons etched with our drawings — you might get a rabbit, a face or harp on your jacket; you never know! Anyway, this spring, I’m obsessed with the nerdy sailorette look: I tuck in our Shrimper Tee into the same bloomers. Goes great with our Spring 2010 Pocket Cardigan. Socks again, plus some clog-style loafers.

One of my all-time favorite pieces is a sample from our Fall 2007 Collection “Canadian Alphabet.” We made a men’s version of our denim houndstooth-printed Moto Jacket. It’s lined in fleece, has a stand-up collar with resin log-shaped beads we made. The jacket is slouchy and oversized, and goes with everything. I also really get a kick out of making outfits combining pieces from all different collections we’ve done over the years.

I’ve read in various sources that your careers are based in a studio art background. Do you feel that this influence is what sets you apart from other designers? How does it affect your day-to-day process, as well as your long term goals?

Our design process has always been influenced by our art background. While we’re meeting more and more individual fashion designers who come from fine arts as well, we haven’t met many design duos in which both partners have the art background as we do. We collaborate on every design decision, which in itself is a challenge we find intellectually exciting. All the artistic disciplines we started out doing individually — drawing, painting, printmaking, sculpture, performance, photography, and so on — have taken on important roles in Feral Childe, from the textile designs to the shapes and garment construction details we are known for, to the branding and marketing materials that help get the product out into the world.

From the start, we shared similar aesthetic interests and the philosophy of exploiting the possibilities of whatever materials happen to be available. In the artist’s studio, we were always improvising. As designers, we want to take something and make it better (i.e., what would make for an interesting jacket?). A large part of our design conversations involve editing, paring down something to its most essential elements. We make all of these decisions as a team. The Feral Childe look has everything to do with creating a particular voice that is ever-evolving, ever-changing.

Here at Substance, sustainability and thoughtful production are as important to us as beautiful design. We know this is a priority for you as well — can you tell us about the most effective or exciting measures you have taken to make ethical garments?

Community-building has been key. Without our network of suppliers, contractors, designer colleagues, and the retailers who support us, it would be impossible to source more sustainable fabrics, find reputable service providers to work with and reach our customers so we can keep doing what we do! Our relationships have saved us in a pinch when fabric has run out or a factory has closed, enabled us to travel the world and reach new audiences, and given us so many opportunities that we couldn’t have even imagined when we started out. Using sustainable fabrics, paying fair wages, producing locally, and avoiding waste are all important aspects of ethical production, but we also believe taking an active role in sharing resources to support those around us can be one of the most effective ways to make more ethical garments.

What icon, past, present, real or fictional, would you most like to dress in your creations?

Toughie. So many women, so little time. Maybe we’d start with Madame de Pompadour. Patti Smith. Alice B. Toklas.

In a subsequent email, Alice asked me to add Jo March to that fantastic list. Having read Little Women over a dozen times since I first picked it up at the age of 9, that will probably go down in history as my all-time favorite postscript. Thanks again, ladies — we can’t wait to see what you create next fall!

Day 25 of my 100 Day Challenge - Wearing my skirt with the Knitted Dove Sail Away Jacket, bamboo knit top, Sue London bronze slipper and my own pearls.

A couple of weeks ago two of my favorite topics, food and fashion, came together in a panel at the Ohio State University, featuring an energizing discussion on how we define sustainable consumption. I was honored to speak among the many intelligent and inspiring people gathered there from the Columbus food and sustainable fashion scene. Preparing for the panel was an opportunity for me to brush up on some alarming statistics on the environmental impact of our industry. The most concerning fact I found? That for every U. S. citizen, 68 pounds of clothing is thrown away every year.

The thought of so much unwanted apparel adding to the textile waste that occupies our landfills and pollutes our planet is exponentially troubling given the countless alternatives available when it comes to discarding–or updating—the items in your closet.

“We sell the clothes you keep.”

Four years ago at Substance we adopted this as our motto and we’ve been saying it ever since. While we do work hard to honor that pledge by offering interesting fashion and helping our customers to thoughtfully build their wardrobes, we know that individual tastes and waist lines change and that no garment lasts forever. That said, you can clean out your closet and honor our planet this Earth Day by trying these 5 great alternatives to throwing away your unwanted clothing:

1. Make friends with the earth by making friends with a seamstress! Get your not-quite-right clothing altered so you love the way it looks and feels on you. For Columbusites, we recommend the alterations expertise of Elizabeth Ashleigh Designs.

2. Redesign or repurpose your garment into a piece that’s as unique as you are. Something as easy as our 3 step redesign idea can give fabulous new life to an old tee.

3. Donate gently used clothing to good causes. Locally we love Dress for Success, which provides suits for job interviews to low-income and disadvantaged women, and there are many great chapters nationwide.

4. Resell your items to local consignment shops. It’s are a great way to keep clothing out of landfills and make a little money at the same time. Your old duds may be a bargain-hunter’s next treasure!

5. When you shop for new clothes, shop with purpose. Look for wardrobe pieces that you know you’ll wear more than once. Challenge yourself to wear what you buy more often—I recently started my own 100 Day Challenge, in which I set out to wear my swing skirt 100 times this coming year. Crafting so many outfits around one piece is a great way to evaluate what’s important to you in your clothing, and the kinds of things that will last you a long time, saving you major headaches in the dressing room!

Help us celebrate this Earth Day 2012 by sharing these tips, and together we’ll help next year’s statistics look a lot more stylish!

• Your store has a calming, comfortable feel, which shows in your clothes.—Laura
• Beautiful shop with beautiful people!—Patricia
• I love being in this storefront. I seem to come alive! The staff are one-of-a-kind—just like your Design Lab collections—creative and singular.—Michele
• Awesome concept put into practice!—Saima
• Extremely exquisite and eco-conscious.—Janelle
• Speechless! Thanks for empowering women.—Preston
• Very peaceful. Almost feels like I’m home.—Meghan
• You guys are always so kind and helpful. My favorite store in Columbus!—Bailey

As you can see, the feedback is invaluable to us. During slow moments at the store, we pore through the guestbook, honored that our friends have taken the time to write to us. And as the last page fills up, we celebrate the relationships we’ve forged over the years. But not to worry; there will be a new guest book to fill up! Locals, stop in and leave a note—we’d love to hear from you. (Out-of-towners can always email us or leave reviews on our website.) Let’s keep the conversation going! And if we’re lucky, we’ll have another batch of wonderful comments to share in a few years.

Leather that lasts forever: the Clingy Wallet by 49 Square Miles

Like many women, we at Substance love a good handbag. We love clutches, hobos, satchels and totes. We adore rich, traditional tones of black and brown as much as this season’s favored bright dash of color. We aren’t picky – it merely must be well-designed, functional, beautiful, versatile, and an excellent value.

Well, maybe we’re a little picky.

But we have yet to pick a side on the dividing issue: leather or vegan?

On the one hand, you have lines such as (our newest leather line) Merci Marie. The founder went on a trip to Italy years ago, and returned stateside with a new handbag. Simple, chic, handmade by an Italian craftsman from a buttery leather, it was the perfect souvenir – with the one minor irritation that she was now being stopped on the street and asked everywhere she went, where did you get that bag? So, she began a partnership with leather-working artisans in a small village in Tuscany, importing handmade, classic, simply stunning handbags.

We’ve discussed before the “casual conservation” that occurs when you thoughtfully buy classic, well-made pieces that will be a reliable element in your wardrobe for years to come. No small amount of waste is prevented by the investment in one incredible garment or accessory – and a classically-styled, artisan-made, fine leather handbag is probably the best example out there of this important concept.

But, not all of us are comfortable with wearing leather, even if it is from a happy Tuscan cow. Perhaps you are vegetarian or vegan, or maybe you simply don’t have the financial flexibility to be making an investment in a great leather bag. These used to be the most common reasons women chose faux leather over the real stuff.

These days, more often than not, our customers can’t tell the difference between our leather and vegan handbags. Gone are the odorous days of pleather! Vegan leather can be made to realistically imitate buttery soft and patent leather — even suede — and all at a fraction of the cost. Our vegan offerings are sought out not just for their cruelty-free production, but also for their excellent prices. Vegan bags are lightweight, great quality, and a fun way to incorporate new trends into your wardrobe without digging too deep. Melie Bianco, our most coveted vegan-lifestyles brand, is known for sassy yet feminine detailing and an incredibly wide range of styles. A new for us, vegan line this season out of Spain is SkunkFunk with sporty, bright, color blocked bags that are perfectly on trend for this summer.

So what’s your preference? Do you love leather or vow by vegan?

Skunkfunk Arabit Dress.

This spring we will be carrying several fun new lines, all designed to breathe some fresh air into your wardrobe. Ironically enough, Skunkfunk is perhaps the most exhilarating — the designs are sporty, colorful, and utterly unique. A Spanish line, there are definite European influences present in the fun frocks we’ve stocked. Skunkfunk’s irreverent designs are imaginatively captured by this great behind-the-scenes video.

Knitted Dove is fun, feminine and flirty, with unexpected design elements that are delightfully whimsical. Take the Sail Away Jacket, for example — the vivid hue and excessive quantity of buttons pretty well sum up the bright and playful mood evoked by these charming garments. For a peek at more by Knitted Dove, enjoy this absolutely lovely video, inviting you to Step Into Spring… croquet, anyone?

Prairie Underground is one of our nation’s foremost sustainable fashion purveyors. Designed and created by a network of creative women in Seattle, Washington, each garment is a blend of hemp and organic cotton. The line is characterized by fashion-forward updates on tried-and-true classics. Peruse their Spring 2012 lookbook and stop by soon to try them for yourself!

If you aren’t able to visit the shop, keep an eye on our website as we list new items each week. Be sure to “like” our Facebook page to see sneak peeks of fun new pieces as they arrive in store! We can’t always contain our excitement long enough to blog about it.

Instead, I lunched with girl friends, scouted locations for a new Cincinnati Substance storefront (subject of an upcoming blog entry), volunteered in my daughters’ classrooms and checked out some museum exhibits. Call me vain, but the result of my skirt uniform was more interaction with my community and good living than I had expected.

I like to keep it real and honest so here’s the not so rosy flip side.  With 85 days left, I am already wishing I had more color in my wardrobe.

So what’s on my focused shopping list for spring? BRIGHT, BOLD COLOR!!!

Here are pics of my outfits in February.

Day 9: Styled with Stewart+Brown Mongolian cashmere tie neck sweater, Charles Albert sterling & bone mermaid pendant, Jim Barnier Beatle boot all from Substance and my own Missoni lace stockings.

Day 10: Styled with giant gold hoop earrings and a 49 Square Miles wood heart pendant from Substance and my own merino Cacharel sweater and studded boot from Barneys New York.

Day 11: Styled with blue vintage naga bead necklaces, striped organic cotton Eileen Fisher cami, and cotton drape neck sweater from Substance with my own striped knee socks & Chie Mihara boots.

Day 12: Styled with a Stewart+Brown long sleeve lengthened tee under a Stewart+Brown side pucker stitched tee, Seduco Italy necklace, giant gold hoops & Jim Barnier Beatle boot all from Substance with my own Missoni tights.

Day 13: Styled with the Stewart+Brown Avant Gardener screen print tee, green vintage naga bead necklace & camel 3/4 sleeve jacket all from Substance with my own studded boot from Barneys.

Day 14: Styled with J Park organic cotton shirred tee & Ember Arts paper bead necklace from Substance with my own Missoni lace tights & boots from Chie Mihara.

Day 15: Styled with a printed teal satin blouse and hammered gold hoop earrings from Substance with my own pile of pearls, sheer textured stockings & boots from Chie Mihara.

Only one noble family could make us so enthusiastic about corsets and elbow length gloves. We know why we love Downton Abbey, of course. It’s got drama. Intrigue. A whole lot of spirit. Upstairs or down, there’s always something to talk about. But what is it about the show’s fashion that’s got us excited? For one, the draping. Empire waists and flowing sleeves emphasize the torso, while long skirts offer some forgiving coverage. (Though in the second season, we get a daring glimpse of ankle!) The prints of the era range from soft and supple for those outdoor teas to jewel tones with intricate beadwork for evening dinner. And then there are the accessories: delicate necklaces that graze the collar and flower-topped hats, to name a few. Whether the Crawley women are sweating gracefully at a garden party or tending to soldiers at the hospital, they appear fully equipped for any occasion.

We know that Edwardian fashion is glamorous. It’s so wonderfully layered—all that texture and color. But why are we so drawn to it now? Maybe we’re ready for a bit of modesty. Within the delightful dishevelment of the latest styles (we love ourselves some Bohemian wear too), perhaps there’s also a call for ensembles that are well thought out and carefully assembled. Genteel, even. The question is—how do you incorporate your favorite looks from Downton without looking like an anachronism?

We took a look through our new spring merchandise and saw plenty of things a modern day Mary (or Edith or Sybil) might wear. Tuck a sheer lacy top into a high-waisted skirt to emphasize a feminine shape. A long magnifying glass necklace boasts a bit of period flair. And couldn’t you see the Dowager Countess lifting it to her eye while delivering a scathing observation about etiquette?

For a stylish walk with your beau, don these buckled heels—as comfortable as they are classy. Underneath it all, you can wear a ruffled slip that suggests you have more on your mind than just teacakes. After all, this was a time of women’s liberation.

Pair your look with a clean, dewy face and a simple coif. The key is inspiration, never imitation. After all, we don’t want everything from that era. (Corsets? Class strife? A rending world war?) One can never go wrong with a little restraint. So until the third season starts up again, we’ll gladly get our Downton fix from our own closets—and, if all goes well, out on the streets too.

It’s snowing one day. Raining the next. We’ll call this Ohio weather in transition. And that means your wardrobe is in transition too. We know the drill: dresses (or shorts for the daring) over tights, layered sweaters, and scarves for every day of the week. All good options. But if you’re like us, you might be ready for something new. Something a little unusual. We invite you to consider the vest: a small garment with a lot of substance.

In 1666, inspired by Persian court fashion, England’s Charles II introduced the vest through royal proclamation. A monarch with a fashion agenda! We like it. But the reason, as always, was a political one. The king wanted to present England as the wholesome repudiation of Versaille’s continental extravagance. Fast-forward a couple hundred years: dandies gave the vest new flair in the 19th century, along with a new name (“waistcoat”), transforming the once-staid garment into a luxury item, with a cropped length, intricate buttons, and spectacular floral prints. Imagine a solemnly-vested Charles II turning in his grave.

Vested Interest, our latest Design Lab collection, has decidedly humbler—though no less interesting—origins. We challenged ourselves to use salvaged and overstock black tees from our private label to create new objets d’art (forgive our French, Charles). The result is a wearable, truly contemporary collection with just an inflection of history. Vibrant embroidery and piping add texture and embellishment, recalling the elaborate costumes of past eras. Sturdy tailoring gives shape, while purposefully unfinished ends keep these vests a bit unpredictable. Inspired by menswear, British trench coats, and geometric prints, Vested Interest combines our love of sustainability with the wit and storytelling that makes fashion so bloody fun.

Here are our favorite uses for a vest:

1. Make a statement of color and pattern over an ordinary tee and jeans.
2. Add a necessary (and complementary!) layer over billowy spring organzas, chiffons, and violes.
3. Provide contour on a boxy blouse—not to mention some camouflage for those resolutions-in-progress. After all, we love our bonbons as much as the next woman!

Button it or leave it hanging open. Call it garment, accessory, political statement, or body armor. However you wear it, trust these vests to take you from winter’s sober chill right into the dandified brilliance of spring.

Day 5 - Styled with a grey faux leather jacket, over a Stewart Brown tee, 49 Square Miles carved wood heart necklace and wood stacked heel ankle bootie, all from Substance.

Day 6 - Wearing equestrian print romper and Bauxo double buckle belt from Substance with my own pointelle cashmere shrug, Missoni stockings and Frye boots.

We tried to get a close up to show this adorable tiny horse print on the equestrian romper.  It makes me smile.  You may have to see it in person to get the full effect.

Tiny horse print close up.

The thing about layers is that they can add bulk. I use belts a lot to minimize the fullness of the extra layers. I also look for light weight fabrics in my tops, because I can comfortably layer them for warmth with the added bonus that I can still wear most of these tops on their own in the spring and summer.  You’ll definitely see me in many of these pieces again, on their own, in the warmer months.

Day 7 - Wearing ditsy floral printed bow blouse over Stewart Brown tee, Bauxo skinny belt, vermeil circle pendant all from Substance with my own purple tights and studded boot from Barneys New York.

Day 8 - Wearing Indigenous Designs just sleeves sweater, agate slice buckle and Solesu imprinted leather belt from Substance with my own abstract floral knit top, Missoni tights and Chie Mihara lace-ups.

Extra purple ... in case I meet Prince today.

Betsy, of Elizabeth Ashleigh Designs, was our first tenant in January 2011. After working as a Substance employee for five years while building her own custom design business on the side, she finally made the leap to full-time self-employment when she moved upstairs. A stylish and devoted following of women employ her to alter and create beautiful garments, and anyone who comes through the store can attest to the gorgeous quality of her upcycled vintage pieces.

C & E Designs moved in next, displaying a stunning and varied array of refurbished vintage jewelry. The locally-based team of collectors have a keen eye for the fabulous and unique, as our savviest women of Substance have learned in the past year. We love to incorporate old with new, making our wardrobe all the more sustainable!

At least once a day since J Squared Organics moved in, we’ve had a customer ask why it smells so good in our store. It seems that people are catching on: J Squared soaps made #6 on Columbus Underground’s Best of 2011 Top 10 Locally Made Products list. Even more impressive? All Jennifer Noland’s simply irresistible products are locally harvested, fair trade, and certified organic. And, bonus, the soaps sell for only $5.50 and the candles sell for $10.

Our most recent tenant, Josie Wills, has a background pageant gown design. As such, her work encompasses a flair for the formal, with lots of fun, eye-catching embellishment. She designs original pieces for clients and makes custom alterations to jazz up any wardrobe.

Also joining us for the celebration: Linda P. Miller with her beautiful, hand-crafted jewelry designs featuring, hand-forged and imprinted mixed metals, charms, natural gemstones, crystals, and leather. Over the years, we’ve carried Miller’s designs, but this event will showcase more of her work than ever before seen in the store.

Intrigued? Come join us on February Gallery Hop for an evening of fashion, chocolate, and community, three of our favorite things. Our Lofts artists will be in the store to talk with you about their unique and beautiful products. We look forward to sharing the love from 4 pm ’till 6 pm on Saturday, February 4th!

Elizabeth Ashleigh Designs

C & E Vintage Jewelry

J Squared Organics

Josie Wills