The Cathedral of Tuguegarao

Last January 2010, I was invited by the North Philippines Visitors Bureau to join a media tour of travel writers and bloggers to experience North Luzon. Part of the tour included a visit to 9 churches, a visita iglesia. Check Langyaw.com for travel related posts during this trip.

Tuguegarao Cathedral is imposing in its size, awe inspiring with it’s brick facade and interesting with its many brick bas relief symbols of the Dominican Order. There are roosters, papal tiaras, dogs, the sun and the moon and the marian symbols. In terms of architecture, it is the prime example of the Cagayan style of facade which can be seen in Dupax del Sur, Bambang and Bayombong in Nueva Vizcaya as well as a variation in Tumauini and San Pablo in Isabela.

Our Lady of Piat Shrine

The Our Lady of Piat Shrine is one of the top pilgrimage areas in Cagayan province and in the country with many devotees venerating the image. It’s not a colonial era church. When this shrine became popular and grew, the old edifice located near it was eventually abandoned and is now in ruin. Notable church antique artifacts including an 18th century bell can be found at the shrine’s museum.

Iguig Church is famous for its flying buttresses located at the back.

The church of Iguig is unassuming with its already renovated facade that one would hesitate to venture inside and just move on. However, at the back, supporting the rear wall, is an architectural detail that is not so commonly used in other Spanish colonial era churches in the country: flying buttresses. Only a handful of religious edifices sport this like Tumauini in Isabela. Found mostly used in Gothic architecture, its kind of surprising to be used here.

Alcala Church

Alcala Church is said to be the widest in Cagayan province with its three aisles. Squat and minimally embellished except for decorative columns and blind windows as niches, the style of the facade is reminiscent to the one in Lal-lo. The interior has been greatly renovated with nary a trace of the original.

Camalaniugan Church is where the oldest bell in the Far East is located, dated 1595.

Camalaniugan Church is famous for one thing: the oldest bell in the Far East is located here. This bell, cast in 1595 is inscribed the Sta. Maria with an almost tubular form unlike those cast in the 18th and 19th centuries. The current structure is new as the one prior to this was burned a few years ago. Behind the current building is the ruins of a much older church which was abandoned when the mighty Cagayan River flooded and eroded portions of the structure. About a hundred meters is a massive and old horno or oven, used to bake the bricks used in constructing many of the brick churches in North Cagayan during the Spanish colonial period.

Lallo Church was once the seat of the Diocese of Nueva Segovia

Lal-lo Church used to be the seat of the Diocese of Nueva Segovia in the 18th century but was moved to Vigan in Ilocos Sur when the Cagayan River flooded and eroded portions of its plaza fronting the church. This and the edifice in Alcala have the same style of facade. The interior has been renovated.

Pamplona Church

I’ve been looking forward to see the church of Pamplona but was quite disappointed. It’s facade has already been renovated, with the origina covered with new bricks. However, as one goes to the side, the nave is still original and portions of the rubble stone used as filling can still be seen.

Paoay Church, UNESCO World Heritage Site

The Parish church of St. Augustine in Paoay, Ilocos Norte is one of four structures inscribed as Baroque Churches of the Philippines under the UNESCO World Heritage List. It’s architecture is no like any other in the Philippines with it’s unique facade and massive buttresses that line the nave’s exterior. It’s a good example of earthquake baroque and, typical of Ilocos churches, the belfry is a few meters from the main structure. Some critics say that it’s architecture is a blending of the oriental and occidental, the east and the west.

Masinloc Church

The church in Masinloc is one of the few remaining Spanish colonial era churches in Zambales, majority of which were built by the Augustinian Recollects as they were assigned this region right after they arrived in the country in 1606. made from coral stone, it’s a surprise for me as churches made from this material is not so common in Luzon. Several earthquake damaged this edifice, the latest of which struck in 1999 that resulted in a crack at the facade. It has been repaired a few years ago.

I made it to the cover: San Sebastian Minor Basilica in the June 2010 issue of Bluprint Magazine

In the June 2010 issue of Bluprint Magazine, my images of San Sebastian Minor Basilica made it to the cover as well as main feature entitled: Prefab Gothic Revival: Saving the All-Steel San Sebastian Basilica in Manila. The article is written by Tina Paterno, a New York based conservator, who is in the country spearheading, as project head, the restoration of this stunning and historic edifice.

The author details the history of San Sebastian, which took a decade to design and execute from 1881 – 1891 under the auspices of the Augustinian Recollects. This was made possible due to one man, Genaro Palacios where a plaque bearing his name is inscribed at the floor near the entrance.

However, Tina also focuses on the often unseen problems of this structure. Foremost is the alarming corrosion of the metal structure that is not noticed by visitors and parishioners. As one looks closely, rust has eaten some parts of the steel panels. Warping has afflicted some sections and already, 36 kilos of metal have fallen.

Not only that, water has leaked. The beautiful trompe l’oeil at the choirloft, transept dome, pendentives and at the walls near the altar is slowly damaged as the steel panels continue to deteriorate. For Tina, these are just from the outside. She is more concerned of the condition of the unseen steel trusses.

This article is thus timely and important in order to raise awareness and galvanize support not only within the parish of San Sebastian but also with heritage advocates and ordinary Filipinos. In the next few months, detailed study and assessment will be conducted to give a real picture of the extent of deterioration and recommend appropriate action.

The San Sebastian Minor Basilica in Manila is a national treasure, a Philippine National Historical Landmark since 1973 and is listed in the World Monuments Fund under the Watchlist 2010 of Cultural Heritage at Risk.

Bluprint is monthly magazine, a design sourcebook published by the Mega Publishing Group. This month’s issue is on Sacred Spaces and includes other religious architecture found in the country.

The main altar was located at the center of the church which forms a Greek cross. Archival image from San Agustin Museum. CLICK TO ENLARGE.

It would have been a sight as one enters the lost church of Oton. From the main entrance with three gothic style doors, one is greeted with trompe l’oeils at the ceiling’s faux vault, the same features that now decorate the stone vault ceiling of San Agustin Church in Intramuros.

Where the four arms of the greek cross floor plan, a Byzantine style adaptation, of the church meet at the center, an impressive free standing and gothic style retablo rises.

This retable has four sides with each side having its own altar. It is separated from the nave by a beautiful wrought iron communion rail that ring the altar.

Above it, the pendentives, the triangular part where the dome connects with the walls below, are painted with the four evangelists, as is customary and still observed today.

As can be seen from the archival image at the left, the pulpit is not the typical one that hangs from the walls. Instead, it is supported from the ground. It is then topped with a gothic inspired torna voz with a spire rising at the center.

Oton Church is in the form of a Greek cross with four equal arms. It is mainly of the Gothic Order with other architectural styles blended. Image showing one of the side entrance. Archival image courtesy of San Agustin Museum.

The lost church of Oton in Iloilo was the only one of its kind in the Philippines in form and structure. It’s architecture is a combination of different architectural styles: gothic, classical and romanesque, a trait that is very much common in most Spanish colonial period churches in the country. It was in the form of a Greek cross, a byzantine floor plan with all four arms of equal length radiating from the center.

The structure has two levels. The first having semicircular windows running the length of its sides and each end of the arm having portals: three main doors at the main entrance and one each at the other arms. The second level has circular windows alternated with classical columns at each side and three openings with lancet arches top the portals.

The four entrances are crowned with a triangular pediment in the form of a gothic arch pierced with a rose window and flanked with two spires. Other than the three portals, the main entrance is also distinguished with bigger spires. A massive central dome has a lantern serving as a finial and below it are clerestory windows to admit light.

This blending of different architectural styles cohered in some way to become one of the unique structures in the country ever built. Unfortunately, it never survived to this day.

The stunning church of Oton, Iloilo was one of a kind in the Philippines but was destroyed not by war but by an earthquake. Archival image from the San Agustin Museum.

It would have been one of the country’s spectacular churches, if not the most beautiful were it not for a natural cataclysm that razed it to the ground. Oton’s once majestic church, in the form of a Greek cross, was unique as it was the only one with such a plan and architecture blending Byzantine with Gothic and classical elements.

The town of Oton was established by the Augustinians in 1572 after Cebu and Manila and was the center of their administration in Iloilo. In fact, the former name of the province is a namesake of the town. It’s name is the hispanized version of ogtong, meaning reef or tidal flat which is a main feature of the area and was then the encomienda of Don Miguel de Loarca.

The history of church building is a bit hazy but its first prior, Fray Martin de Rada was said to have built a church of good quality which was eventually destroyed during a Dutch attack in 1614. It was only in the 19th century that we get to know of a church being constructed during the curacy of Fray Demetrio Cobos who was parish priest from 1844-1854 that the first stones were laid.

Fray Diego de Hoz continued the project when Fray Cobos died in 1854. Fray Joaquin Fernandez, named in charge of construction in 1883 finished the edifice. The grand church was consecrated and blessed in 1892 by Fray Nicolas Gallo.

The edifice was spared during World War II but an earthquake on 5 January, 1948 destroyed it. It has never been rebuilt and only two bells, dated 1817 and 1887, and a portion of the wall, now built with a grotto, remain of the structure.

The steel columns and fan vault of the beautiful Minor Basilica of San Sebastian

San Sebastian is a gem, a unique edifice that is said to be the only all-steel church in Asia. The soaring spires seem to reach out to the heavens as this neo gothic structure is just so impossible to miss. Inside, the fan vaulting is mesmerizing.

For around two weeks last April, I’ve documented this basilica, photographing the myriad and interesting details, the trompe l’oeil, the stunning stained glass and many more. I also got alarmed with the deterioration and rust that is slowly creeping and probably affecting its steel material.

Those two weeks are still not enough. I still have to take images of the deterioration, the details of the exterior as well as the tombstones found inside. Once these are finished, I then need to check the documentation, articles and books published on this structure. Archival images aren’t hard to find though.

Once all these are finished, I can then start posting about this magnificent church. Do stay tuned in the coming months as Simbahan.net brings you one of the Philippine’s magnificent churches. Check out my posts in estancabigas.com where I have some sample images.

My latest download featuring all the 28 Spanish colonial era churches in Cebu that is still existing today

Sample page featuring two churches. CLICK TO ENLARGE

This is a series focusing on the Cebu Visita Iglesia that can be followed as a guide for the much observed Filipino Catholic Lenten tradition. Click the image at the right to access other churches in other provinces.

Visita Iglesia Cebu is my latest follow up to the successful (with more than 300 downloads as of writing) Visita Iglesia Manila PDF guide which is a free download. Like the previous, it focuses on the remaining Spanish colonial era churches in the province with 28 churches featured from north to south, east to west. Each church is shown with a beautiful facade photo accompanied by a brief history. A printable map is also available.

Sample page showing numbered Cebu map. CLICK TO ENLARGE

Churches covered in this ebook:

• Cebu Metropolitan Cathedral
• Basilica del Sto. Nino
• Pardo
• Talisay
• Naga
• San Fernando
• Carcar
• Sibonga
• Argao
• Dalaguete
• Boljoon
• Nueva Caceres
• Oslob
• Samboan
• Ginatilan
• Malabuyoc
• Badian
• Moalboal
• Dumanjug
• San Remegio
• Daanbantayan
• Bantayan
• Sogod
• Catmon
• Danao
• Poro (Camotes Is.)
• Compostela, and
• Liloan

Check it out!

Samboan Church

This visita iglesia series focuses on the different churches in various areas in the country that can be followed as a guide for the much observed Filipino Catholic Lenten tradition of the Visita Iglesia. This part focuses on non Augustinian built churches in the island province. Check out the other posts on Cebu Churches: Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5

1 Samboan

The town of Samboan used to be part of the Tanjay (Negros) matrix but was separated as an independent parish in 1784 under the advocacy of San Miguel Arcangel. Located in the far off southwestern side of Cebu near its tip, the unassuming and plain looking facade of the church greets the weary traveler.

The first stone church, and the current one, was built only in 1842 under Fr. Romulado Avila, a Secular. It’s facade is quite plain and the only point of interest is the royal coat of arms of Spain indicating that this was built through the King’s support, one of eight other churches in Cebu.

While the renovated convento detracts the viewer, there is a watchtower a few meters from the church overlooking the sea and below it is a coral stone stairway named Jacob’s Ladder.

Ginatilan Church

2 Ginatilan

Ginatilan, originally part of Samboan, was declared a separate parish in 1847 with Fr. Juan Clemente, its first parish priest.

Construction of the cruciform church started in 1854 and finished in 1866. The belfry was added later, built in 1883 – 1890. Like it’s neighboring town of Samboan, the facade is bereft of any interesting ornamentation, with its builders preferring a rather austere front. The statue of it’s patron, San Gregorio Magno is located at the second level and just above the main portal.

It’s interesting structural component is, however, the beautiful beflry which is connected to the church with a camarin, its graduated tiers, tapering off and capped with a pointed roof. It’s mudejar type wilndows calls to mind the one in Pardo Church and gives one the impression that this was also used for defensive purposes.

Originally, the edifice was surrounded by walls as it was a fortified settlement but only the front part with its puerta marina and one rampart/watchtower remain to this day.

Nothing much has changed on the exterior part of the structure except for the incongruous portico and galvanized iron roofing.

Malabuyoc Church

3 Malabuyoc

Originally part of Samboan, Malabuyoc was declared a separate parish in 1832 with San Nicolas de Tolentino as its patron saint.

Like the church in Samboan, it is made of coral stones and its facade, topped with a triangular pediment is again simple and decorated with a few bas reliefs. It’s royal coat-of-arms, indication that it’s construction was supported by the King of Spain, and located just above the main portal has already deteriorated and rubbed off that it is so hard to discern the markings. The structure is cruciform. Side buttresses line it’s side.

Inside, there are no longer traces of the original retablo although the choirloft, supported by two pillars still exist. Two windows at its side, however, were opened up and made into side entrances.

The convento is located a few meters from the church but built in line with the facade. Unfortunately, the coral stone lower level was covered in cement and some renovations have been done. A lone watchtower is located a few meters from the facade.

Badian Church

4 Badian

Badian was separated as a parish from Barili in 1825 under the advocacy of Santiago de Apostol. Its church is unique compared to the others in the island province with its squat and unusual porticoed facade with four quadrilateral columns supporting a triangular pediment. Simple floral bas reliefs decorate these and four jar shaped finials are found at each corner.

The original belfry, now built at it’s side, used to sit atop the pediment but was taken down in 1990 upon the advice of NHI to ease pressure on the two free columns.

The church still has its original and beautiful wooden retablo.

Moalboal Church

5 Moalboal

The parish of Moalboal was declared in 1852 under the advocacy of San Juan Nepomuceno.

The church, made from coral stones, was started by Fr. Agustin Melgar and was finished 38 years later in 1890 by its second parish priest, Fr. Pedro Brigaudit.

The facade design follows the Badian template but executed more elegantly consisting of three tiers with its triangular pediment, a pair of round windows and three portas at the central part. Several bas reliefs as well as fluted columns makes the front interesting.

Of all the churches in Cebu, this is the only one that was abandoned due to building defects. In 1956, a major renovation was done. The church was expanded including a massive belfry at the top. The facade and rear of the structure was retained while the walls were taken down and replaced with cement. Due to the rusting of the reinforceing metal bars of the walls and columns, it expanded and created fissures that the building was abandoned. A modern structure was then built right beside it.

Dumanjug Church

6 Dumanjug
Dumanjug was separated as an independent parish from Barili in 1854 under the advocacy of St. Francis of Assisi. It is one of the few beautiful churches constructed by the Seculars who administered the western side of Cebu stretching from Samboan in the south to Bantayan in the north. It’s first parish priest was Fr. Matias Cabrera.

The church started out as a temporary structure made of wood and nipa. It was Fr. Doroteo Godinez who built the present stone church made from coral stones for 10 years and finished in 1864 with the help of the parishioners.

Dumanjug Church is one of eight structures in Cebu built with generous patronage of the King of Spain. This can be gleaned from the royal seal found at its facade. However, instead of the usual royal coat of arms as can be seen in the Cebu Cathedral, Samboan, Malabuyoc, Oslob, Argao, Boljoon and Dalaguete, it consists of the double headed eagle emblem of the Hapsburgs.

Its facade is quite richly ornamented with several floral motifs running down its columns.

Catmon Church

6 Catmon Church
Catmon was a vicarage of Danao and was separated as a parish in 1835. Even before its separation, it was already administered by the Augustinian Recollects, first by Fray Miguel Martinez from his church in Danao.

The original site of the church used to be in what is now known as Catmon Daan (Old Catmon) where, atop a hill overlooking the sea, only the walls and a watchtower of a fort remains. Here the first church was built but unfinished as it was then relocated to it’s present site at the current poblacion.

The current stone church was constructed by Fray Bernando Ybanez and was finished in 1875 during the incumbency of three other parish priests. Fray Francisco Vergara did the finishing touches. The interior has been remodeled but fortunately, it’s beautiful ceiling woodwork is still intact.

It is one of the few Spanish colonial era churches in Cebu that still has its attic located above the sacristy intact.

San Guillermo Hermitanio is the patron saint.

Sogod Church

7 Sogod Church
The town of Sogod was declared as a separate parish in 1832 but it’s first parish priest was the one assigned in Parian (Cebu City) before the latter was downgraded into a visita. It was only in 1842 that it had its own priest, Fray Patricio Cudelia de San Jose who took charge until 1851.

Nothing is known about when the present structure was constructed. Felipe Redondo in his Breve Resena (1886) already mentioned about the stone structure including its parochial house or convento. It was badly damaged during World War II and a typhoon in 1951.

Today, its very simple facade is what remains of the original structure. At its front is a ruined watchtower or baluarte, testament to its dark past when Muslim slave raiders used to terrorize the seas.

Like the church in its neighboring town of Catmon, the one in Sogod is located at a high promontory that overlooks the sea.

Santiago Apostol is the patron saint.

San Remegio Church

8 San Remegio Church
San Remegio was separated from Bogo as an independent parish in 1864 with Fr. Ceferino Montecillo as its first parish priest.

The church, built during the curacy of Fr. Ygnacio Espina, now immortalized on the floor with a marble plaque, was still being built when Felipe Redondo’s book, Breve Resena, was published.

The structure originally faced the sea but in 1972, Fr. Diosdado Isobal renovated the church, closed the facade and made a new entrance at what used to be the back of the church.

San Juan Nepomucena is the patron saint.

Daanbantayan Church

9 Daanbantayan Church
Daanbantayan (also Daan Bantayan) used to be part of Bantayan Parish and it was separated through a declartion of a diocesan decree in 1858. It was under the administration of the Seculars.

While Felipe Redondo, in his book, Breve Resena, published in 1886 still recorded it as having timber and tabique pampango walls, wooden floors and cogon roofing, a cartouche above the main portal details the construction of the church in 1886 during the curacy of Fr. Feliciano Torres.

The three sided facade of the church is the only one of its kind in the province of Cebu with the ones flanking the central part angled. The position of the belfry is also unique as it recedes from the facade, a feature that is shared with another church in Marilao, Bulacan.

The interior has already been renovated with the wooden retablo discarded and replaced with a much simpler one.

Santa Rosa de Lima is the patron saint.

Bantayan Church

10 Bantayan Church
Bantayan, located in the island of the same name is the oldest parish in Cebu being the first to be established by the Augustinians in 1580. A well populated town, it has suffered frequent incursions by Muslim slave raiders. In fact, the church used to be within a walled settlement.

In 1603, it was handed to the Seculars and administered the towns of Daanbantayan (separated in 1858) and nearby villages in north Cebu as well as the island of Maripipi in Leyte. The current stone church was constructed in 1839-63 by Fr. Doroteo Andrada del Rosario.

Bantayan church is one of the most impressive churches in the province and in the country. It’s richly ornamented facade is a sight to behold with its bas relief of saints and floral motif. Along the walls of its nave, both interior and exterior are profuse with another roster of these stone carvings.

The town is also famous for its lenten processions with lifesized and mostly antique images being borne on carozzas.

Cebu Metropolitan Catheral

1 Cebu Metropolitan Cathedral
In 1595, the Diocese of Cebu, together with Nueva Caceres and Nueva Segovia was established as suffragan dioceses to the Archdiocese of Manila.

The mother church of the diocese, it was first made of nipa and wood. In 1689 the first stone church was started but due to the perennial lack of funds, even with the promised P10,000 given by the King of Spain and staggered for the next 10 years, construction has, time and again been delayed, later demolished (and transferred to the adjacent lot) and built again.

The current structure was built between 1829 and 1863. In 1865, the church was expanded and renovated but was overtaken by the 1898 revolution. It was finished by Bishop Juan Bautista Gordo during his term.

St. Vidal is the patron of the cathedral.

Liloan Church

2 Liloan Church
Liloan was established as a parish in 1845 under the advocacy of San Fernando del Rey with the Augustinian Recollect Fray Vicente Dolores as its first parish priest.

Originally a visita of Cotcot, it was under the care of the Jesuits in 1737 and even before they were expelled from all Spanish dominions, the town was returned to the Augustinians during the 1740s. Liloan was part of their early missions.

The current church was started in 1859 under Fray de Santa Lucia and was finished 21 years later. Wood used for the construction came from Leyte. The rectory, which used to stand near the rear end of the church was built six years earlier but was demolished in the 20th century.

This church has still extant cargo y data, record books that shows that the workers who built the edifice were paid and not a product of forced labor.

Compostela Church

3 Compostela Church
Compostela was established in 1865 through a diocesan decree and was handled by the Augustinian Recollects who took charge of the northerneastern part of Cebu. The edifice was constructed by Fray Manuel Alonzo and was originally composed of a stone facade while the rest were made of bamboo and nipa.

The church was renovated and expanded in the 1970s to accommodate parishioners with the coral stones now made as decorative items within the church vicinity. Only the facade and a small portion, actually a pillar at the sacristy, remains of the stone structure.

St. James the Apostle is the patron saint.

Danao Church

4 Danao Church
Danao was part of the original north Cebu Augustinian missions and was transferred to the care of the Augustinian Recollects in 1744.

Fray Manuel de Santa Barbara is credited with the building of the original stone structure around 1755. During World War II, it was damaged with only the facade and walls standing. Renovation was done right after but from 1981 – 85, a major renovation was done that greatly altered the church save for the facade and belfry.

The church is cruciform and has one of the beautiful facades in the province.

Santo Tomas de Villanueva is the patron.

Poro (Camotes) Church

5 Poro (Camotes) Church
Poro, one of the 3 towns that are in the Camotes group of islands off Carmen was administered by the Jesuits as early as 1737. It was established as a separate parish only in 1847 under the advocacy of the Sto. Nino.

The parish was first held by Fr. Florentino Dalmacio, a Secular but was later turned over to the Augustinian Recollects for administration with Fray Nicolas Gonzales as parish priest.

A single naved church, it is made of coral stones with buttressed sides which, during a 20th century renovation was grazed off. Only the facade and walls are original while the interior has been modernized. The belfry is also a later addition.

The wooden convent that used to stand a few meters from the church has long been demolished and a modern concrete one was built at the side sporting the original hardwood flooring of the former.

Some of the bells of the church were distributed and can still be found in some chapels within Poro.