The two new fuels have been in development for five years and are called FuelSave Unleaded and FuelSave Diesel. They will replace Shell’s regular unleaded and diesel fuels at all Shell filling stations in the UK will cost the same as the old fuels.

Can It Be True?

I won’t blind you with science, but Shell says that both the new fuels have special, completely new ingredients that help petrol and diesel engines work more efficiently, therefore reducing fuel consumption. Such claims are notoriously hard to prove, as so many other factors – like the type of car, the roads and the driver – can affect fuel consumption. (If you are interested in the technical details, click here)

Shell understands that people will be sceptical and has had a lot of independent testing carried out on the new fuels, using the same test cycles that are used to calculate fuel consumption figures for new cars. It says that the test results validated its claims of saving up to a litre per tank and that it’s also carried out more than 5,000 miles of real-world tests on public roads, in which “fuel economy savings were achieved in most cases” – with some vehicles even managing to save more than one litre per tank.

Win A Year’s Supply Of Fuel

To celebrate the launch of the new fuels, Shell has teamed up with Ashes cricketer and FuelSave Ambassador Andrew ‘Freddie’ Flintoff to give you the chance to win a year’s supply of fuel while learning some fuel efficient driving techniques that will cut your car’s fuel consumption.

It turns out that Freddie Flintoff isn’t just a great cricketer – he’s a pretty keen driver, too. He’s hoping to get more than 100,000 people to sign up to his fuel-saving challenge and be in with a chance of winning a year’s supply of fuel. Freddie says:

I had no idea that by making a few simple changes to my driving habits, I could be so much more fuel efficient.

Freddie is living proof that his driving tips work – while learning about fuel saving he drove round a test track to see how far he could drive on one litre of FuelSave Unleaded. On his first attempt he managed just 4 miles – but by the end of the training he could manage 13 miles on one litre – a big difference.

Andrew "Freddie" Flintoff honing his fuel-saving driving techniques on the track

Although you won’t be able to manage such a big improvement on public roads, a few small changes to your driving technique will make a big difference when it comes to fuel consumption.

Freddie’s tips make an ideal starting point if you want to become more fuel efficient – to find out more and be in with a chance of winning a year’s supply of fuel, visit www.shell.co.uk/freddieschallenge.

Technique Is Important

It’s important to remember that fuel-efficient driving techniques like mine and Freddie’s will do more to improve your fuel consumption than any fuel you can buy.

My personal best is a reduction of 10% in my car’s fuel consumption, which I achieved simply by following my own advice and using my right foot much more lightly, looking further ahead and keeping my speed down slightly on motorways. It can be done and it’s surprisingly easy, so why not give it a try?

To learn more about using good driving techniques to save fuel, have a look at these tips:

• Our own Simple Guide to fuel-efficient driving techniques
• Freddie Flintoff’s FuelSave Challenge tips (including a chance to win a year’s supply of petrol or diesel

I’m going to give the FuelSave Challenge a try, but in the meantime, I’m planning on carrying out my own FuelSave testing to see if I can reduce my fuel consumption with FuelSave Diesel – I’ll publish my results here when I get them.

Lots of people do. Some of them fail to get any interest, but don’t see why.

Let me help.

One thing almost all used car dealers have in common is that they pay someone to valet their cars before they go on sale – inside and out. This is a cost to them, so they don’t do it just for the good of their health.

Equally, it’s clear that just cleaning a car thoroughly doesn’t change any of the following:

• Its market value
• Its reliability
• Any faults
• Its service history (or the lack of it)
• Its mileage, age or number of owners
• The desirability of the make and model of the car

So if valeting a car before sale doesn’t affect any of the things above, why bother?

The answer is obvious – presentation. Dirt, grime, scratches and leftover snack food on the rear seats are a big turn off. Your brain knows that they are only superficial but you still don’t want to see them when you are spending a lot of money.

So why do some people think that the same rules don’t apply when they are selling a car privately?

A man who lives on my street recently bought a new car and decided to sell his old car privately. The car in question was a small hatchback, about 10 years old. It would have made a good first car for a young driver or a cheap runabout/second car for a family.

He placed a notice in the window listing most of its good points, recent work carried out, the mileage and the price – so far so good. What he didn’t do was prepare the car for sale.

He didn’t wash it on the outside.

He didn’t clean or tidy it on the inside.

He definitely didn’t polish or T-Cut the paintwork to bring it up like new or black the plastic trim.

He didn’t sell the car, either.

If you’d like to know more about how to sell a car privately, click here to read my Simple Guide To Selling Your Car.

However, this website isn’t for DIY mechanics – it’s for people who just want to make owning a car as easy as possible.

So are Haynes manuals any use for non-mechanics like you and me?

Haynes Manuals – An Introduction

First of all, let’s take a quick look at what, exactly, a Haynes manual contains.

A Haynes manual contains a lot of photographs and detailed instructions that talk you through most of the common (and some not so common) maintenance and repair tasks that will be required on a particular model of car.

Everything is vehicle specific – so photos and instructions should always relate to what you see in front of you when you’re looking at your car.

By and large, the instructions are quite good and each procedure is rated in difficulty and lists the tools that will be required.

If nothing else, Haynes manuals are a useful way to prevent yourself getting in over your head with a job that’s more complex than you realise!

Haynes Manuals For Normal People

If you aren’t interested in fixing your car yourself and always use a garage, Haynes manuals aren’t that useful – but they do still have two uses, in my experience:

• They will help you understand what’s involved when your garage tells you a certain job is required
• They will help you with small or urgent jobs that you may be forced to attempt yourself – such as replacing windscreen wipers, checking and topping up oil and other fluids and changing a wheel.

Haynes manuals are available for most older cars but are still being produced for newer models. They tend not to become available until cars have been around a few years and are out of their warranty period. (Cars that are still under warranty should generally be repaired and maintained by a main dealer, to avoid voiding the manufacturer’s warranty by using non-original parts.)

Where To Buy Haynes Manuals?

Most car accessory shops, book shops and all branches of Halfords have a good range of Haynes manuals in stock. Amazon is good too and at the time of writing is much cheaper than Halfords!

Childrens toys, clothes, camping equipment, food – the list is endless and, somehow, it’s all ‘essential’.

Many family cars – such as the Ford Focus – are fine for everyday use but don’t really have very big boots. It’s not difficult to fill them up – and it isn’t always safe or possible to just chuck stuff in the back, especially if you’ve got children (when carrying luggage in the rear of a car instead of the boot, always consider what might happen in the event of an accident or sudden stop – large or heavy objects moving around inside the car can be very dangerous)

A roof box is often a much more practical and safe solution. For a relatively modest cost, the luggage capacity of your car can be increased considerably – without compromising on passenger comfort or safety.

It’s true that roof boxes increase fuel consumption, but for occasional use, this probably isn’t a big issue. Heavily-loaded cars use more fuel anyway, so the difference may not be that great.

Choosing & Fitting A Roof Box

Roof boxes are generally fitted to a roof rack that you will need to purchase separately. If you’ve got an estate car, you’ll probably already have roof rails running the length of the car – all you then need is roof bars to put across roof – your roof box will then fasten to these bars.

Roof boxes are generally made from moulded plastic and are normally lockable. They come in all shapes and sizes and their capacity is measured in litres – as car boots are. This makes it easy to compare different roof boxes for size and also to compare them to your existing car boot for size.

Remember To Remove Them Afterwards!

Roof boxes do cause increased fuel consumption (even when empty) so remember to remove them when you aren’t using them. Driving around with an empty roof box is just burning money!

So is a bike rack (or ‘cycle carrier’) the solution?

Pros:

• You keep all of the normal passenger and luggage space inside the car and keep your muddy bikes outside
• You can get cycle carriers to fit on the roof, boot/tailgate and towbar of most models of car
• Basic cycle carriers can be had for under £40 – they don’t have to be expensive purchases
• You can carry up to 4 bicycles on one car

Cons

• Your bikes will be vulnerable to theft if you leave the car unattended
• Having a cycle carrier that mounts on a roof rack leaves you boot clear but can be awkward to load – can you lift your bike above your head?
• Rear-mounted bike racks often obscure cars’ number plates and/or lights. This is illegal, so you might need to use a light board to ensure that your lights and number plate are clearly visible.
• Any type of cycle carrier will increase wind resistance and therefore will increase fuel consumption.

Which Type Of Bike Rack?

There are three main types of bike rack:

• Roof mounted
• Tailgate/boot mounted
• Towbar mounted

To learn more about the pros and cons of each solution, check out the “Fitting a Bike Rack To Your Car” guide that I wrote last year.

Buying A Bike Rack

Most branches of Halfords have a reasonable selection of bike racks and many branches now also offer a fitting service – so the store staff will fit and explain the rack to you before you leave.

If so, have a great time. Driving in Europe is generally much more fun than driving in the UK, as long as you are properly prepared.

Here’s a quick checklist of things to remember before you go:

• Fit headlight converters to your car or have your headlights adjusted by your dealer (check your car manual for advice)
• Check whether you need a GB sticker & buy a warning triangle (2 for Spain) and at least one yellow reflective vest
• Service your car if necessary and make sure your insurance is valid for European use – remember that you may only have 3rd party cover abroad unless you pay for extra cover – ask your insurer!
• Make sure your tyres are correctly inflated, check the oil and water and top up the windscreen wash
• Are your windscreen wipers in good condition? Replace them if they are worn or torn.
• Check all your lights and make sure you have a full set of spare bulbs – in many countries it’s a legal requirement
• Make sure you have suitable maps (paper or sat nav) for the countries you will be driving in
• If you need glasses to drive, take a spare set

Finally, check the country-specific driving requirements for the countries you are visiting – I recommend the AA’s website for this:

• Visit the AA’s European driving guide (highly recommended)

Different countries have all sorts of different rules – most of them are simple and cheap to obey but easy to get wrong if you don’t know about them. Also note that speed limits are usually slightly different but are normally clearly signed as you cross the border into each country.

Finally – remember to drive on the ‘wrong’ side of the road! It’s not too difficult, as long as you remember to think about it. Don’t rely on autopilot and you’ll be fine.

Above all, enjoy the experience. I love driving in Europe – the roads are usually quieter and often better and more scenic than the UK.

Car towing a caravan - note that the caravan is pretty much level

If you’re the owner of a caravan or trailer, then you may want to take a look at its tyres.

Caravan and trailer tyres often get neglected because owners assume that the low mileage they do means they won’t wear out as fast as car tyres.

Unfortunately, it’s not just mileage that causes wear and tear to tyres.

Sun Burn

Tyres are quite vulnerable to UV damage – rather like human skin, prolonged exposure to direct sunlight will age and crack rubber tyres, leaving them stiffer and more brittle than they should be. This increases the chances of a dangerous failure while under tow, such as a high-speed blowout.

Regular use helps to prevent this, as the flexing of the tyre as it rolls along the road helps to prevent the formation of cracks and keep the tyre nice and flexible. When left to stand for an extended period of time, caravans and trailers should really jacked up off their wheels and the wheels should be covered or removed to prevent damage from UV rays and from deformation resulting from the weight of the trailer being in one position for so long.

I Do Like To Be Beside The Seaside

We all like the bracing air of the seaside and the UK’s beautiful coastline is positively littered with caravan parks. However, as anyone who has spent some time living on the coast knows, the air tends to be much saltier than inland and that salt can cause problems – not least with caravan tyres that are left to stand all winter in the salty air.

The salt speeds up the deterioration of the rubber and owners of caravans that spend their lives on the coast may find that their tyres need replacing sooner than they would inland.

It’s worth emphasisng that cracked tyres do need replacing – regardless of how much tread is left on them. If you’re unsure, get your tyres inspected by a tyre fitter and replace them if necessary. The cost of a new pair of caravan tyres is nothing compared to the consequences of a high speed blowout on a busy motorway or while abroad.

For a comprehensive guide to inspecting and understanding caravan tyres, visit the TyreSafe Website

They’re available in a range of values – from £1 to £20, so you can make up any amount you like. They can be used to buy anything in Halfords stores (but can’t be used online).

You can buy Halfords Gift Vouchers online – just go to Halfords.com then Toys -> Gift Vouchers.

It’s much easier than you think and basically comes down to a few simple driving techniques and a bit of common sense. Carmony.co.uk recently published a free guide for drivers to help them save money – here are their top 6 tips:

• “Saving” money by not servicing your car is a false economy. Servicing your car regularly makes sure the engine runs efficiently.
• Travel light! Avoid carrying any unnecessary weight in the car, such as boxes or golf clubs, and remove roof boxes if you are not using them. The aerodynamic resistance caused by an empty roof box adds 10% to fuel consumption.
• Plan ahead, especially at the weekend. Think about making one long journey instead of two or three short ones.
• Drive smoothly, accelerate gently and maintain a steady speed.
• Change gear early. Keeping below 2,500 rpm for petrol engine and 2,000 rpm for diesel engine will help maximise your fuel efficiency.
• Watch your speed. At 80 mph you could be using 25% more fuel than if driving at the 70 mph speed limit. And at 70 mph you are likely to be using nearly 10% more fuel than when driving at 60 mph.

These are all good tips that will reduce your fuel consumption – as an experiment recently I used a tank of fuel with a heavy right foot then refilled the tank, followed the tips above and cut my fuel consumption by 10% – just like that.

Why not give it a try? The reality is that fuel prices aren’t going to fall much and VAT will probably go up in two weeks time when the government announces its emergency budget. Saving money on fuel could really help – why burn it for nothing?

Fronting is where someone falsely declares that they are the main driver of a vehicle and takes out an insurance policy in their name, when in fact another driver is the main driver of the vehicle.

The most common scenario where this happens is with young drivers. A parent might take out car insurance in their own name for their child’s car and add their child as an additional driver on the policy – even though the child will be the main driver of the car.

Many drivers believe this is a legitimate loophole – but it isn’t. It’s motor insurance fraud.

According to the MIB, if, in the event of an accident, a driver’s insurance company discovers that the policy is being fronted by someone other than the main driver, they may refuse to pay out damages to the insured and seek to recover the costs claimed by the third party from the insured driver. In other words, the insurance may be invalid – so it’s also possible that the police would seek to fine or prosecute those concerned for driving without valid insurance.

On top of all of that, the young driver who is trying to cut the costs of their insurance is failing to do so – because they won’t build up any no claims discount unless they are the main policy holder.

One much better way to save money on insurance is for newly-qualified young drivers to take the Pass Plus course after they pass their test and then find an insurance company that will offer a discount to Pass Plus-qualified drivers. Some insurance companies offer up to 30% discount for this (click here for a quote from a company that recognises Pass Plus).

According to the MIB, another approach is find insurance companies that offer quickie no claims discounts – basically, drivers can get a full year’s no claims bonus in less than 12 months – sometimes as few as six months. (I don’t really know how this works, but it does, apparently).

Buying your car insurance directly online can help, too – some insurers offer cheaper prices online than over the phone. I’ve experienced this myself, so it’s worth a try.

Above all, choose a car that’s cheap to insure – something relatively modern, low powered, ‘normal’ and not modified – at all. Modifications make insurance premiums head for the stars – not a good idea.